EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

  1. EXPEDITIONS 1972 and 1973
  2. EXPEDITION 1973

 

 

EXPEDITIONS 1972 and 1973
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
LADAKH
1. Kanglacha (20,520 ft.-6,255 m.)I I. T. B. P. Y. C. Khanna Climbed 17.7.72
KULU - LAHAUL-CHAMBA
1. Lion (20,100 ft.- " 6,126 m.) Inst of Exploration S. Bhattacharyya Climbed 27.6.72
2. Central (20,620 it.- 6,285 m.) Climbed 29.6.72
3. Phabrang (20,250 ft. - 6,172 m.) Shiga Prefacture Mtg. Assoc. S. Ibayashi Climbed 25.9.72 by the West ridge. Also climbed two unnamed peaks of c. 5,800 m.
4. Phabrang South (20,144 ft. - 6,140 m.)j
Pt. 6,019 m. (Thirot Nal)		 Tokyo Denki Univ. T. Ohtake Climbed 30.10.72. Also climbed an unnamed peak c 5,800m. Attempted
5. Indrasan (20,410 ft.- 6,221 m.) Kansai Ganpo S.Asanome Climbed 18.5.73 by new route by the south wall. Deo Tibba (6,001 m.) was also climbed
6. Pt. 19,777 ft. (6,028 m.) at the head of Tapni Laluni gl. Mulkilla (21,380 ft.-6,517 m.) British J. Millar 1 st ascent 14.6.72 Attempted
GARHWAL
1. Tharkot (20,010 ft.-6,099 m.) Mountaineering Club, Calcutta Ladies Expdn. Miss S. Mitra Attempted
2. Rajramba (21,446 ft.-6,537 m.) Bombay Unrv M. M. Moghe Attempted
3. Trisul (23,360 ft.-7,120 m.) Indian D. Ambegaonkar Attempted
4. Bhagirathi II (21,364 ft.-6,512 m.) I.T.B.P. N. C. Tripathi Climbed 16.6.72
5. Pt. 20,700 ft. (near Ganesh Parbat) I.T.B.P. R. K. Khanna Climbed 13-7-72
6. Baljauri (19,430 ft.-5,922 m.) Nainital M.C. G. Sah Climbed 30-9-72
7. Kamet (25,447 ft.- 7,756 m.) Assam M. Assoc. A. P. Barua Attempted
8. Pt. 20,370 ft. in the Tons Valley Dutagar Calcutta A. Sen Attempted
9. Pt. 19,080 ft. (N-E of Bidum gl.) 1 Pt. 18,560 ft. (N of Bidum gl.) | Mountaineers' Club, Calcutta B. Rakshit Climbed Details N.A.
Climbed Details N.A.
NEPAL Pre-Monsoon
1. Everest (29,028 ft.-8,848 m.) European Dr. Herri ig- koffer Attempted S-W Face.
2. Lhotse West German G. Lenser Actually attempted peaks east of Lhotse and Pethangtse
3. Makalu II (Kanchungtse) ! (25,066 ft.-7,640 m.) Univ. of Electro Com munications A.C., Tokyo T. Nishiyama Attempted by the N-W ridge
4. Manaslu (26,760 ft.-8,156 m.) South Korean Kim Jung Sup Attempted by the E. face
5. Manaslu (26,760 ft.-8,156 m.) Tiroler Himalaya Expdn. W. Nairz 4th Ascent, 25.4.72 Solo summit ascent by R. Messner
6. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.-7,660 m.) Gumma Himalaya F. Kabayashi (Dep. leader) l Attempted by the previous Austrian route
7- Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 ft.-7,246 m.) Seppyo A.C. H. Takahashi (climbing leader) 2nd ascent „ 28.4.72
8. Nampa (22,162 ft.- 6,755 m.) Japanese Dr. S. Matsushima 1st ascent, 5.5.72 via south face Onto W. ridge.
Post-Monsoon
9. Everest (29,028 ft.-8,848 m.) British C. Bonington Attempted S-W face
10. Makalu (27,824 ft.-8,481 m.) Yugoslavian A. Kunaver Attempted by new route via S. face
11. Pumori (23,442 ft.-7,145 m.) Savoyarde - Expdn. Y.Pollet Villard Climbed by the S, face direct on 3 & 4.11.72
12. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.-7,660 m.)! Japan Rock Climbing Society 1 A. Ohtsu Attempted from Kaphe Khola and the long ridge over Dhaula VI (7,268 m.), Gama Pk (7,150 m.) and Junction Pk. (7,108 m.) the first two which they climbed
13. Kande Hiunchuli (c. 21,500 ft.) Yamatabi A.C. Tokyo H. Nishino Climbed 18.10.72
14. Nampa South (Jethi-Bohurani) (22,769 ft.-6,940 m.) Nagoya Univ. Y. Ohsumi Attempted
15. Annapurna South (23,683 ft.-7,219 m.) Doriju M.C. U. Tada Actual peak climbed was the highest point north of Annapurna South known as "Central Peak of Annapurna South" (7,150 m.)
16. Putha Hiunchuli (23,774-ft.-7,246 m.) Nagoya Y.M.C.A. Alpine Club T. Sabashi- 3rd & 4th ascents on 14 and 16.10.72 by the S-W face
17. Tukche (22,703 ft.-6,920 m.) Tokyo College of Pharmacy A.C. K. Sakaguchi Climbed on 17.10.72
18. Gurja Himal (23,599 ft.-7,193 m.) French Lyonssaise » Dr. P. Buttin Climbed on 21 and 22.10.72 by two different routes
HINDU KUSH
1. Khwaja Muh ammed Range Kohe Sakarowa (5,796 m.)
Kohe Robogan (5,723 m.)		 High School Athletic Assoc. of Fukuoka Prefecture Y. Takeudhi Climbed 28.7.72 Climbed 30.7.72
2. Razer Valley Pt. 5,523 m. Pt. 5,623 m. Pt. 5,500 m. } Kohe Piriack South (5,728 m.) Pt. 5,521m. Kyushu Dental Univ. S. Kamachi Climbed 27.7.72 Climbed 27.7.72 Climbed 29.7.72 Climbed 30-7-72 Climbed 30 and 31.7.72
3. Kohe Bandaka S. (Main) (6,843 m.) Hirosaki Univ. S. Hanada Climbed on 10, 12, and 13.8.72 by the S. ridge
4. Kohe Safed (6,001 m.)
Pt. 5,550 m. V
Pt. 5,178 m.
Pt. 5,340 m.
Pt. 5,341 m. J		 Tokyo Gakugei Univ. I. Ikeba Climbed on 9.8.72 from the South
Climbed
Climbed
Climbed
Climbed 9.8.72
5. Urgunt-e-Bala Valley
Kohe Shah (6,920 m.- Wala 265)		 Club Excursion- ista de Gracia, Barcelona J. Pay tubi Attempted
6. Urgunt-e-Bala Vallev
Pt. 5,800 m. (Wala 259) Rosenheheimer H. K. Expdn. T. Trubs- wetter Climbed 13.8.72
Pt. 5,710 m. (foresummit) between W. 282 and 283 recce. 13.8.72
Pt. 5,510 m. (northern fore- summit of Wala 260) recce. 15.8.72
Pt. 5,300 m. CWala 26 n Climbed 16.8.72
Kohe Avval V (5,800 m.-Wala Climbed 16.8.72, 23.8.72 & 28.8.72
Pt. 5,600 m. Wala 260s* Climbed 19.8.72
Pt. 5,820 m. Climbed 19.8.72
Pt. 5,300 m. CWala 261) Climbed 20.8.72
Pt. 6,010 m. (on the N. ridge of Kohe Urgunt) Climbed 20.8.72
Pt. 6,130 m. (on the N. ridge of , Kohe Urgunt) , Climbed 24.8.72
7. Noshaq (middle summit) (c. 7,400 m.)
Aspe Safed I 6507 m.
Aspe Safed IV (6,140 m)
Kharposhte Yakhi (5,698 m.)
Rakhe Kuchek I (5,230m.)
Rakhe Kuchek II (5,300 m.)		 Berchtes- gadner H. K. Expdn. L. Heiss Climbed 16.7.72
Climbed 4.7.72
Climbed 7.7.72
Ski-climb on l6 and 11.7.72
1 st ascent 15.7.72
2nd ascent 15.7.72
8. Noshaq (7,492 m.)
Aspe Safed I - IV
Pt. c. 5,950 m. (Wala 82)
Pt. c. 5,980 m. (Wala 81)		 Warszaw
H. K. Expdn.		 J. Kurczab Climbed by a new route by the 1,600 m. S-W face for the first time. 20-22.8.72 First traverse from IV-1 15-18.8.72
Climbed 14.8.72
Climbed 15.8.72
9. Kohe Mondi (6,234 m.)
Kohe Khaaik (5,860 m.)		 British P. Boardman Climbed by the N. face & by the N-E. rib. Climbed by its * N. face. Eight other peaks were also climbed five of which were virgin. Details N.A.
Note : Noshaq (West and Main Summits) Aspe Safed I Kharposhte Yakhi were also climbed by
(a) The American H. K. Expdn. (D.J. Graber)
(b) Norwegian H. K. Expdn. (D. Isles)
(c) Italian H. K. Expdn. (Beppe Tenti and R.Messner)
10. Kohe Tundy Shagai Sha (6,121 m.) Cambridge Univ. J. Danby Climbed by a new route by the N-W face. Also climbed 11 other virgin peaks in the area, Details N.A.
11. Suigal Valley Kohe Morusg (6,435 m.)
Kohe Marchech (c. 6,450 m.)		 British Jt. Univ. Expdn. Climbed
Climbed. A total of 40 summits climbed during Aug. 1972. Details N.A.
12. M. 6 (c. 6,000 m.) Spediozione Citta di Ascoli F. Saladini Climbed 9.8.72
13. Jurm Valley (Wakhan) Kohe Jurm I (6,000 m.-Wala 282)
KoheJurm II (5,980 m.- Wala 282 a)
Kohe Shal-e-Safid (5,470 m.- Wala 284)
Kohe Chard (5,350 m.- Wala 289)
Kohe Sauz (5,510 m.- Wala 291)
Kohe Stara (5,540 m.- Wala 292)
Kohe Past (5,400 m.- Wala 291 a)
Kohe Dur (5,520 m.- Wala 281a)		 Spediozione "Jurm 1972" L. Bartolami Climbed 1.8.72
Climbed 1.8.72
Climbed 27.7.72
Climbed24.7.72
Climbed 3.8.72
Climbed 1.8.72
Climbed 22.7.72
Climbed 29.7.72
14. Wakhan Kohe Urgunt-e- Payan (7,038 m.) Expdn. Sport Eiselin, Switzerland A. Strickler Climbed 19 and 21.8.72

 

 

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EXPEDITION 1973
Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
GARHWAL
1. Panch Chuli II (22,650 ft.-6,904 m.) I.T.B.P. M. Singh 1st ascent 26.5.73
2. Balakun(21,230 ft.-6,471 m.) I.T.B.P. H. Singh Climbed 9.7.73
3. Chaudhara (21,360 ft.-6,510 m.) Giri Vihar Bombay A. R. Chandekar Climbed 2.6.73
4. Nanda Pal (20,690 ft.-6,306 m.) I.T.B.P. R. Chandra Climbed 8.6.73
5. Pt. 20,587 ft. (6,275 m.) West of Nilkantha St. Stephen's College, Delhi S. S. Ganju Attempted
LADAKH - KISHTWAR-SPITI
1. Saser Kangri(25,170 ft.-7,672 m.) I.T.B.P. Joginder Singh 1st ascent on 5.6.73 repeated on 6 and 7.6.73
2. Brammah (21,050 ft.-6,416 m.) Indo. British Chris Bonington 1st ascent 24.8.73
3. Kinnaur Kailas (21,240 ft.-6,474 m.) Indian Army Maj. D. K. Khullar Attempted
NEPAL
1. Everest (29,028 ft.- (8,848 m.) Italian G. Monzino Climbed on 5.5.73 (3 climbers) and on - 7.5.73 (4 climbers)
2. Makalu (27,824 ft.-8,481 m.) Czech E. Galfy Attempted by a new route, S-Wr. ridge between the French and the Japanese routes
3. Annapurna I (26,545 ft.-8,091 m.) Shinano Sect, of J.A.C. S. Tsukomoto Attempted from the north
4. Dhaulagiri I (26,795 ft.-8,167 m.) American Dr. J.Morrissey 3rd ascent on 12.5.73 by the normal N-E. ridge
5. Manaslu (26,760 ft.-8,156 m.) Swabian Him. Expdn. (W. German Dr. G. Schmatz Climbed by a new route on E. face on 22.4.73
6. Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 ft.-7,660 m.) Austrian F. Hover Attempted by N. face
7. Kanjiroba Japanese F. Watanabe Climbed on unnamed Peak 6,660 m. S-E. of the main peak, from its west side
8. Api (23,399 ft.- 7,132 m.) Chuo Univ. K. Ichikawa Attempted by a new route on W. ridge
9. Lhotse (27,293 ft.- 8,511m.) Kanagawa Mountaineer ing Federation R. Uchida Attempted the S. wall
10. Annapurna II (26,041 ft.-7,937 m.) Sangaku Doshi-kai Expdn. Y. Shimamura Climbed on 6.5.73 by the W. ridge
11. Pumori (23,422 ft.-7,145 m.) Tohan Club S. Nakamura Climbed on 1.5.73 by S. ridge
12. Annapurna South (23,683 ft.-7,219 m.) Sagamiaro A.C. K. Yamada Attempted from N-E. side by a new route
13. Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West) (27,625 ft.- 8,420 m.) Kyoto Univ. E. Nishibori 1st ascent on 14.5.73 by S-W. ridge

 

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Himalayan Journal 32
Editor: Soli S. Mehta Published Year: 1974
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
    (Soli S. Mehta)
  2. EVEREST SOUTH WEST FACE, 1972
    (CHRISTIAN BONINGTON)
  3. SOUTH FACE OF PUMORI (7145 m.) HIMALAYA 1972
    (MAURICE GICQUEL)
  4. AN ATTEMPT ON JETHI-BOHURANI OR NAMPA SOUTH PEAK, 1972
    (N. TAKEYAMA and T. SWEDA)
  5. MAKALU, WEST PILLAR, 1971
    (ROBERT PARAGOT, BERNARD MELLET AND YANNICK SEIGNEUR)
  6. A TREK TO KALA PATHER, 1972
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  7. THE POLISH HINDU KUSH AND PAMIR EXPEDITION, 1971
    (STANISLAW BIEL and JERZY WALA)
  8. EXPEDITION JURM, 1972
    (LINO BARTOLAMI)
  9. ISHMURGH VALLEY-WAKHAN CORRIDOR
    (W. GIGER)
  10. URGUNT-E-BALA
    (JOSE PAYTUBI)
  11. THE BERCHTESGADENER HINDUKUSH EXPEDITION 1972
    (LORENZ HEISS)
  12. THE BRITISH CENTRAL HINDUKUSH EXPEDITION, 1971
    (R. SCOTT)
  13. THE FIRST ASCENT OF MALUBITING, 1971
    (HORST SCHINDLBACHER)
  14. ACROSS CHOBIA PASS TO TRILOKNATH
    (NITAI RAY)
  15. INDRASAN WEST RIDGE EXPEDITION, 1971
    (A. JOHNSON)
  16. SMALL PARTY EXPLORING IN KULU AND LAHUL, 1972
    (JOHN MILLAR)
  17. KAMET (25,447 FT.), 1972
    (ROHINI KUMAR BHUYAN)
  18. SATOPANTH GLACIER, 1973
    (ASHOK BAMZAI AND PARASH MONT DAS)
  19. ASCENT OF KALINDI (19,882 ft.) SUVARN (20,020 ft.) AND UNNAMED PEAKS (18,500 ft. and 18,000 ft.) 1971
    (G. R. PATWARDHAN)
  20. KINNAUR KAILAS, 1973
    (Maj. D. K. KHULLAR)
  21. PSYCHOPATHOLOGY IN ALPINISM1
    (ZDZISLAW RYN)
  22. ON CLAIMING PEAKS
    (SOLI S. MEHTA1)
  23. INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINEERS MEET
    (SOLI S. MEHTA)
  24. ROCK CLIMBING CAMP-KASHMIR
    (BALWANT SINGH SANDHU)
  25. SPEECHES
    ( MR. J.T.M. GIBSON)
  26. SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATION OF THE HIMALAYA
    (BRIG. GYAN SINGH)
  27. HIGH ALTITUDE PHYSIOLOGY
    (SURG. CAPT. M. S. MALHOTRA, I.N.)
  28. THERAPY MOUNTAINEERING
    (LUTE JERSTAD)
  29. “LOVING OUR WILDERNESS TO DEATH"
    (WARWICK DEACOCK)
  30. A MODEST PROPOSAL
    (JOE KELSEY)
  31. THE HIMALAYA ARE IN DANGER
  32. THE HUNT OF A URIAL
    (PARASH MONI DAS)
  33. BOOK REVIEWS
  34. OBITUARY
    (J. T. M. Gibson)
  35. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  36. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1972