THE BERCHTESGADENER HINDUKUSH EXPEDITION 1972

LORENZ HEISS

(A Short note on the expedition with photograph and sketch map were received in time for them to be squeezed into this issue —Ed)

Members: Lorenz Heiss (leader), Herbert Eglauer, Albert Steinbacher, Heini Brandner, Sepp Rasp, Roland Bannert, Manfred Hillebrand, Gerd Gsottschneider, Reiner Maier and Udo Blaes.

Climbs achieved:

4 July. The 6507 m. Aspe Safed I was climbed by Hillebrand, Rasp and Heiss by the northern ridge with Camp I as 5200 m. and Camp II at 5950 m. The descent was effected by the same route.

7 July. The ascent of Aspe Safed IV (6140 m.) was made by Eglauer, Steinbacher and Bannert over the 50° to 60° steep ice couloir of about 700 m. in height, upto the saddle and then by the summit ridge. Due to bad weather two bivouacs had to be made in the couloir which we named the Berchtesgadener Couloir. Descent by the same route.

10 July. Eglauer, Hillebrand, Gsottschneider and Heiss do a ski-climb of Kharposhte Yakhi (5698 m.) through the eastern "Polish glacier" with a camp at 5300 m.

11 July. The ski-climb of Kharposhte Yakhi is repeated by Steinbacher, Blaes and Maier in a thick fog. Only Steinbacher reaches the summit, the two companions remaining about 100 m. lower down.

15 July. First ascent of Rakhe Kuchek I (5230 m.) is made over the south wall by Gsottschneider and Eglauer. After that Eglauer makes the second ascent of Rakhe Kuchek II (5300 m.). They both return to Base Camp the same day.

16 July. Steinbacher and Heiss climb the middle summit of the Noshaq massif (7350 m.) ¹ over the west flank. Camp I was placed at 5400 m., Camp II at 6200 m. and Camp III at 7000 m. Brandner, Raspe and Hillebrand were forced to descend to Camp III due to altitude sickness. The descent was made more difficult due to very bad weather.

BERCHTESGADENER HINDUKUSH EXPEDITION 1972

Photo Plate 27.

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