EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

  1. EXPEDITIONS 1967
  2. Expeditions and Notes

 

 

EXPEDITIONS 1967

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
SPITI
1. Leo Pargial I.M.A., Dehra Capt. D. K. Kullar 2nd ascent
  (22,280 ft.) Dun   19.6.67
HIMACHAL PRADESH
2. Kinnaur Kailas Army Maj.A. B. Jungalwalla attempted
  (21,240 ft.)      
GARHWAL
3. Jogin III (20,065 ft.) Small team Dr. G. R. Patwardhan Climbed 4.6.67
4. Bhagirathi II (21,364 ft.) Bombay Univ. R. G. Desai attempted
5. Sudarshan (20,125 ft.) Outward
Bound
Pioneers,
Poona
Prof. Gole attempted
6. Kedarnath Dome (22,410 ft.) Kedarnath Parbat
Exp.,
Calcutta
A. Sen climbed
30.9.67
7. Ronti (19,893 ft.) All Ladies'
Exp., West
Bengal
Miss D. Sinha climbed
28.10.67
reached
8. Hardeol (23,460ft.) Himalayan Assoc.,
Calcutta
C. Mitra
21,500 ft.
9. Pk. 20,500 ft.
(near Srikanta)
Mountain Lovers' Assoc.,
Asansol
N. Bose attempted
KULU VALLEY
10. Papsura (21,165 ft.) British team R. Pettigrew 1st ascent
3.6.67
11. Mukar Beh (19,910 ft.)
(19,910 ft.)
Small team W. Staniger attempted
12. Buni III (6,050 m.)
Buni II (6,120 m.)
Rahman Zom (over 6,000 m.)
H.K. Expd. 1967 of Sect. Oberpinzgau- Zellam See, O.A.V. j. Hofer 1st ascent 7.7.67
2ndascent 12.7.67
1st ascent 13.7.67
13. Dir Gol aera
Pk. 6,700 m.
Pk. 5,579 m.
Tirich Mir (7,706 m. Wala-30)
Kartner H.k. Exp. H. Thomaser 2nd ascent 18.8.67
1st ascent 18.8.67
Attempted
14. Rosh Gol area
Languta-l- Barfi (South Pk..)
Pk. 5,300 m._(on S.W. spur of Saraghrar)
H.K. Exp. Of Sect. Schorndorf, D.A.V. S. Harer Climbed 5.8.67
Attempted
15. Nirighi Glacier
Sucai Zom (5,972 m. Wala-201)
Datti Zom (6,247 m. Wala-199)
Ispnder Sor (6,089 m.Wala-202)
Saraghrar Brink (c. 6,600 m.Wala-198)
Aurum Ghuni Zom (5,580 m.)
Istor Ghuni East (5,536.Wala 217)
Istor Ghuni Central (5,520 m.Wala 216)
Istor Ghuni west (5,520 m.Wala-215)
Pk. 5,640 m.(East)
Pk. 6,020 m.(East)
H.K. Exp. Of Sect. Bayer- land. D.a.v. H. Kobrich 2nd asent 8.7.67
1st ascent 12.7.67
1st ascent 15.7.67
1st ascent 23.7.67
1st ascent 28.7.67
1st ascent 29.7.67
1st ascent 29.7.67
1st ascent 29.7.67
1st ascent 30.7.67
1st ascent 30.7.67
16. Chiantar Glacier
Koh-Chateboi (6,150 m.)
Kon-i-Warghaut (6,130 m.)
Koh-i-Chaintar (6,416 m.)
Little Chaintar (5,765 m.)
Chaintar (Central Pk.) (5,219 m.)
Koh-i-Batzen-hausl (East and West) (both c. 5,700 m.)
Pleatue Pk. (5,859 m.)
Pk. 5,590 m.,
Pk. 5,300 m.,
Pk. 5,130 m.,
Pk. 5,360 m.,
Pk. 5,480 m.,
H.K. Exp. Of Sect. Munich, D.A.V. A. Linsbauer 1st ascent 28.8.67
1st ascent 31.8.67
1st ascent 15.8.67
1st ascent 15.8.67 also on 16,17,26.8.67 and 1.9.67
1st ascent 13.8.67 and on 14.8.67
1st ascent 23.8.67
1st ascent 27.8.67
All 1st ascents
17. Mainghul Sar (c. 5,800 m.) Small team W. Stefan 1st ascent 7.6.67
18. Upper Tirich Glacier
Istor-o-Nal north I and II (c. 7,373 m.) (Wala-102)
Nobaisum Zom (7,o7o m. Wala-101)
Ghul Lasht Zom South )c. 6,400 m.)
Anogol Zom (c.6,000 m.)
Tirich West IV (c. 7,300 m.)(4th peak N.W. of Tirich Mir)
Achar Zom II (c. 6,300 m.)
Pk. 6,778 m.
(=Pyramid= Dirgol zom) Tirich Mir (7,706 m.Wala-30)
(a) Austrian H.K. Exp. 1967
(b) H.K. Exp. 1967 of Sect. Salzburg, O.A.V.
(c) Japanese Exp. To Tirich Mir.
k. Diemberger Climbed 29.6.67
1st ascent 10.7.67
1st ascent 20.7.67
1st ascent 23.7.67
1st ascent 6.8.67
2nd ascent 11.8.67
2nd ascent 14.8.67
3rd ascent 19.8.67
19. Tirich Mir (7,706 m. Wala-30)
Dirgol Zom (6,778 m. = Pyramid)
Tirich West I
Achar Zom II (c. 6,300 m.)
Czech. Exp. V. Sedivy 1st ascent 12,7.67
Climbed
1st ascent
20. Buni Zom Group
Shupel Zom West (c. 19,685 ft.)
Makho Zom IV (c. 16,400 ft.)
Chakri Zom (?)
Tokyo Univ. Exp. and
Osaka Furitsu Univ. Exp.
T. Miyamori 1st ascent 3.8.67
Climbed 12.8.67
Climbed 14.8.67
21. Lunkho East II (22,545 ft.) Jap. Univ. teams M. Suzuki
S. Tanaka
Climbed 5.8.67
22. Sucai Zom, (5,972 m. Wala-201)
Pk.6421 m.
Langar Zom, Hind (6,950 m. Wala-192)
Saraghrar North (7,040 m. Wala- 194)
Saraghrar Main (7,349 m. Wala-195)
Niigata Univ. Exp. K. Umezu
S. Yokoyama
Climbed 18.7.67
1st ascent 20.7.67
1st ascent 25.7.67
Climbed 27.7.67
2nd ascent 27.7.67
23. Rosh Gol
Pk. 6,600 m.
Urden Zom South (23,130 ft.)
Saraghrar South (24,115 m.)
Hitotsubashi Univ. Exp. K. Yamamoto Climbed 4.8.67
Climbed 11.8.67
Climbed 24.8.67
24. Chuttidum Zom (21,015 ft.)
Lunkho West (22,535 ft.)
German Exp. P. Greghs Climbed
Attempted
25. Gokan Sar (6,200 m.) Italian Exp.   Climbed 27.6.67
26. Bandaka Group
Koh-e-ka-Safed (20,315 ft.)
Bandaka (22,450 ft.)
Pk. C. 5,350 m.
Darrah-i-Shahran
Pk. 5,541 m.) Mi I)
Djuk deh Ambi (18,436 ft.)
Djuk deh Ambi South (c. 18,373 ft.)
Pk. 5,612 m.
Pk. 5,150 m.
Koh-i-Sisgeikh S-W (19, 686 ft.)
Pk. 5,850 m.
Pk. 5,350 m.
Mir Samir (19,,060 ft.)
British Midlands
H.K. Exp.
  4th ascent 8.7.67
7th ascent 10.7.67
Climbed 13.7.67
1st ascent 23.7.67
2nd ascent 23.7.67
1st ascent 23.7.67
1st ascent 24.7.67
1st ascent 24.7.67
1st ascent 24.7.67
1st ascent 24.7.67
1st ascent 24.7.67
Climbed 31.7.67
27. Djuk deh Ambi (18,436 ft.)
Dijuk deh Ambi South (c. 18,373 ft.)
Pk. 18,307 ft.
Pk. 18,242 ft.
Pk. 5,541 m. (18,180 ft.)
Pk. 17,805 ft.
Pk. 17,717 ft.,
Pk. 17,389 ft.,
Pk. 17,454 ft.
Koh-i-Sisgeikh S-W (19,685 ft.)
Pk. 5421 (17,785 ft.), Pk. 17,717 ft.
Italian Exp.   3rd ascent 6.8.67
2nd ascent 6.8.67
Climbed 6.8.67
Climbed 6.8.67
2nd ascent 7.8.67
2nd ascent
Climbed
2nd ascent 10.8.67
1st ascents 12.8.67
28. Loh-e-ka Safed (20,315 ft.)
Bandaka (22,450 ft.)
Chuheh Univ. Exp. Tokyo K. Itakura 5th ascent 15.7.67
6th ascent 7.7.67
29. Koh-i-Yajun (19,764 ft.)v
Yajun III (18,700 ft.)
Hiroshima Univ. H.K. Exp. T. Ohtani Climbed 3.8.67
Climbed 5.8.67
30. Munjun Bashgal area
Pk. 5,881 m.
  Jack and Jeff Dozier Climbed 11.8.67
31. Swat-Kohistan
Falak Sar (19,417 ft.)
Yamaguchi Univ. Exp.   Climbed 20.8.67
32. Kangan Valley
Mali-ka-parbat North (17,135 ft.)
Small team T. Braham 2nd ascent 8.7.67

 

 

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Expeditions and Notes

 

Expeditions 1968

KASHMIR

  Mountain Expedition Leader Remarks
1. Kolahoi (17,799 ft.) Army team Maj. Ramdas Climbed 25.7.68
KULU VALLEY
2. Mukar Beh (19,910 ft) Small team D. Gray 1st ascent 23.6.68
GARHWAL
3. Bunderpunch I (Black Pk.) (20,956 ft.) Doon school Exp. H. Dang Climbed 14.6.68
4. Pk. 21,390 ft. (E. of Deoban) Mountaineers Club Calcutta S. Choudhuri 2nd ascent 15.6.68
5. Pk. 21,390 ft. (E. of Deoban) I.M.Z., Dehradun Maj. H.V. Bahuguna 3rd ascent 17.6.68
4th ascent 20.6.68
6. Pk.23,080 ft. (W. of Trisuli) Giri Vihar, Bombay D.C. Arora Attempted
7. Pk. 22,940 ft. (S.W. of Hardeol)
Pk. 19,880 ft. (S.S.E. of Kohli)
Bombay Univ. Exp. Prof. Chandekar Climbed 31.5.68
8. Bhagirathi II (21.364 ft.) N.I.M., Uttarkashi S. Singh Climbed 16.5.68
9. Satopanth )23,213 fy.)
Pk. 21,710 ft.
Gangotri GI. Exp. Committee A. Sen Attempted
Climbed 19,9.68
10. Trisul (23,360 ft.) Gujetat team R. Thacker Climbed 23 and 25.6.68
11. Rhamani Glacier
Pk. 20.310 ft.
Pk. 19,730 ft.
Rishi Kot (20,460 ft.)
N.D.A., Khadakvasla Ft. Lt. V.P. Singh All three climbed 15.6.68
12. Gangotri Region (Thelu Bamak)
Pk. 19,690 ft.
Bombay team Dr.G.R.Patwardhan Climbed
CHAMBA (Himachal Pradesh)
13. Kailash Parbat (26,660 ft.) Indo Japanese Ladise Exp. Miss n. Patel Climbed 13.5.68
14. Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft.) German team Dr. herrligkoffer Attempted
15. Malubiting West (24,451 ft.) Manchester Karakoram Exp. J.T.H. Allen Attempted
HINDU KUSH
16. Maingul Sar (19,600 ft.) British team W.E. Donohue 2nd and 3rd ascents 3 and 6.8.68
17. Wakhan
Koh-e-abs (5,600 m.)
Koh-e-Rank (5,930 m.)
Pk. 5.900 m. and
Pk. 5,730 m. (near Loh-e-Wakhan)
Koh-e-Sarkhand (5,700 m.)
Koh-e-Tirma (5,950 m.)
Koh-e-Setara (6,030 m.)
Koh-e-James
(6,210 m. Wala-385)
French H.K. Exp. 1968 H. Agresti 1st ascent
19.8.68
1st ascent 20.8.68
1st ascent 23.8.68
1st ascent 24.8.68
1st ascent 4.9.68
1st ascent 6.9.68
2nd acent 3.9.68
18. Khandud Yamit Valleys
Lukho-i-Maghreb (6,450 m. Wala-321)
Lunkho-i-Dosare West (main) Pk. (6,868 m.Wala-320/1) (6,902 m. Gruber)
Koh-e-Farzand (6,185 m. Wala- 308)
Pk. 5,680 m. and
Pk. 5,670 m.
Urgunt-e-Payam Valley
Koh-e-Urgunt (7,038 m.)
Fifth Polish H.K. Exp. 1968 and an Italian team W.K. Olech 1st ascent 11.8.68
2nd ascent 20.8.68
1st ascent 24.8.68
2nd ascent 13.9.68
19. Swat Kohistan
FlakSar (5,918 m.)
Lower Batin Pk.
Small team W. Stefan 4th ascent
1st ascent
20. Ishmurg Valley
Lunkho-i-Hawar (6,872 m. Wala-331) (6,895 m.Gruber)
Koh-e-Andaval (c. 5,500 m.)
Scottish Mountaineering Club I.G. Rowe Attempted
Climbed 2.9.68
21. Khandud Valley
Lunkho-i-Dosare West and East Pk. (6,868 m Wala-320) (6,902 m. Gruber)
Koh-e-Myani (5,632 m. Wala-350)
Pk. 6,450 m. (Wala 321) N.E. Pk.
Lunkho-i-Hawar W. Central Pk. (6872 m. Wala-331) (6,895 m. Gruber)
Pk. 6,390 m. (Wala-354)
Pk. 5,840 m.(Wala-323)
Koh-e-Havad (6,850 m.wala-353/10
Pk. 6,434 m. (wala-353/2)
Pk. 5,844 m. (Wala-323)
Lunkho-i-Maghreb N.E.Pk.
(a) Vienna Academic sect., O.A.V.
(b) Yugoslavian H.K. Exp. 1968
Dr.F. Grimmlinger
A. Kunaver
1st ascent 4.8.68
2nd ascent 9.8.68
1st ascent 10.8.68
1st ascent 13.8.68
2nd ascent 17.8.68
1st ascent 18.8.68
1st ascent 18.8.68
2nd ascent 18.8.68
3rd ascent 20.8.68
4th ascent 21.8.68
1st ascent 19.8,68
2nd ascent 20.8,68
3rd ascent 21.8.68
1st ascent 18.8.68
1st ascent 10.8.68
22. Koh-e-Laksh (5,786 m. Wala 165) French Exp. L.Dubost 1st ascent 8.8.68
2nd ascent 10.8.68
23. Noroghi Khun Glacier
Shahgologh Zom
(c. 6,000 m.)
A.C. of Tokyo Univ. of Education T. Yoshitomi 1st ascent
24. Kotgaz Glacier
Pk. 5,681 m. (Wala-307)
British team T.H. Braham 1st ascent 18.8.68
25. Pegish Zom II (167 m. Wala-307)
Pegish Zom I (6,269 m. Wala 294)
Naghor Zom I (5,935 m. Wala 278)
Naghor Zom II (c. 5,600 m. Wala-279)
Chikar Zom (5,285 m. Wala-280)
Rottenmann Sect., O.A.V. H. Gassner 1st asent 25.7.68
1st ascent 26.7.68
1st ascent 1.8.68
1st ascent 2.8.68
2nd ascent 2.8.68
26. Koh-e-Nadir Shah (6,814 m. Gruber) (Wala-137) Reichenstein Sact., O.A.V. L. Borger 4th ascent 5.7.68
27. South Atrak Glacier
Pk. 6,214 m.(Wala 104/1) (S. Atrak Zom)
A.C. of Sapporo Med. Univ. M. Matsuura 1st ascent
22.8.68
28. Hushko Glacier
Langer main Pk. (c. 7,060 m.)
Pk. 5,600 m. (N.E. of Langer Main)
Gakuyakai A.C. of Waseda Univ. T. Tachibana 2nd ascent 18.8.68
1st ascent 12.8.68
29. Istor-o-Nal (probably West Pk.) Jap. Womens West Asian Exp. 1968 K. Sato Climbed 29.7.68
30. Dirgol Glacier
Malgiri Zom (5,579 m.)
Pk. C. 6,000 m. (Wala-22)
Tokai Univ. t. Okamoto 2nd ascent 16.7.68
1st ascent 27.7.68
31. Hindu Raj
Das Bar Zom (6,072 m.)
Gainthir Chish I (6,274 m. Grubber)
Kapfenberger Sect., O.A.V. H. Linzbichler 1st ascent 8.8 68
1st ascent 10.8.68
32. Koyo Zom (6,872 m.)
Pechus Zom (6,514 m.)
Gainthir Chish I (6,274 m.)
Das bazaar Zom (6,072 m.)
Pk. 4,968 m.
Pk. 5,436 m. and
Pk. 5,280 m.
Pk. 5,505 m.
Mroi Zom (4,821 m.)
Pk. 4,596 m.
Koram Zom (5,440 m._
Vienna Academic Sect., O.A.V. A Stamm 1st ascent
17.8.68
2nd ascent 23.8.68
1st ascent 21.8.68
2nd ascent
14.8.68
2nd ascent
22.8.68
1st ascent 29.8.68
1st ascent 3.8.68
1st ascent
11.8.68
1st ascent
31.7.68
1st ascent
13.8.68
1st ascent
31.7.68
33. Pechus Glacer
Ishpel Zom (c. 5,900 m.)
Frattero Zom (c. 6,200 m.)
E.of Koyo Zom
2nd Frattero Exp. S. Karibe 1st ascent
28.7.68
1st ascent
28.7.68
34. Golash Glacier
Golash Zom (6,100 m.)
Gakushuin Univ. Exp. M. Neida 1st ascent
25.7.68
35. Laspur Valley
Hrambot Zom (5,800 m.)
Bashkargolo Zom (c. 5,400 m.)
Gochhar Sar (6,249 m.)
Shachiokun Zom (6,214 m.)
Ishporili Zom (c. 5,900 m.)
Graz Sect., O.A.V. H. Badura 1st ascent
29.7.68
1st ascent
4.8.68
2nd ascent
9.8.68
1st ascent
10.8.68
1st ascent
10.8.68
36. Chitral/Kohistan
Pk. 4,968 m.
Pk. 5,060 m. (upper Gabral)
Pk. 5,425 m.
Pk. 5,270 m.
Kakhari (5,870 m.)
N. Kohistan Exp. 1968 A. Cormack 1st ascent
14.8.68
1st ascent
16.8.68
1st ascent
23.8.68
1st ascent
3.9.68
1st ascent
5.9.68

 

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