CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1964

The Thirty-sixth Annual General Meeting of the Club was held at Barlow House, Calcutta, on Monday, October 26, 1964. Lt.- Gen. Sir Harold Williams took the chair, and reported on the Club's activities during the year.

Officers, Elective Members of the Committee and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee were elected as follows:

Officers:

President	...	F, C. Badhwar, Esq., O.B.E.
Vice-Presidents	...	T. H. Braham, Esq. G. R. Iredale, Esq.
Honorary Treasurer	...	B. W. Ritchie, Esq.
Honorary Secretary	...	R. Lawford, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries
Bombay		S. S. Mehta, Esq.
Darjeeling		M. J. Cheney, Esq.
Dehra Dun		Gurdial Singh, Esq.
Delhi		A. D. Moddie, Esq.
Kulu		J. Banon, Esq.
Simla Hills		R. E. Hotz, Esq.
Kathmandu		Lt.-Col. C. G. Wylie
Pakistan		Col. E. Goodwin
Great Britain		V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E.
Japan		Y. Mita, Esq.
U.S.A.		Dr. S. Dillon Ripley

Members of Committee

Dr. K. Biswas, M.A., D.Sc. (Edin.), F.R.S.E., F.N.I, F.A.S, F.B.S.	J. A. Eastwood, Esq.
M. Hruska, Esq.	J. N. McKelvie, Esq.
C. J. Henty, Esq.	S. S. Mehta, Esq.
P. L. Roy, Esq.	Gurdial Singh, Esq.
Dr. H. V. R. Iengar

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.
A. R. Leyden, Esq.
J. N. Mathur, Esq.
A. Madgavkar, Esq.

Other Appointments:

Honorary Editor	... ...	Dr. K. Biswas
Honorary Librarian	... ...	Dr. H. V. R. lengar
Honorary Equipment Officer	...	M. Hruska, Esq.

After the meeting Dr. C. S. Houston showed his film on the American K.2 Expedition. This was greatly appreciated by the 35 members and guests who attended. The evening terminated with a dinner at the Calcutta Club.

2. MEETINGS

Apart from the Annual General Meeting the following meetings took place.

CALCUTTA

Mr. Peter Taylor gave an illustrated lecture on August 31 covering his attempt on Mount Temple. Twenty-three members and guests attended.

BOMBAY

On June 25, 1964, a. joint meeting with other Climbing, Trekking and Hiking Clubs of Bombay was held to felicitate Mr. Ruddi Rott and the other members of the successful German Cho Oyu Expedition. Mr. Stammberger gave a very moving account of the successful climb and the loss of two of his companions on the mountain.

On Tuesday, August 18, the Section's Annual Dinner was held at the Willingdon Sports Club. The dinner was preceded at Scindia House by a film of a three-man attempt to climb the North Face of Mount Temple (11,636 feet) in the Canadian Rockies in 1959. A commentary was given on the film by Mr. Peter Taylor. Some 26 members and guests attended the dinner.

DELHI

Brig. N. D. P. Karani, Director of Medical Research, Directorate General of Armed Forces Medical Services, gave a talk on ⁴ The Physiological Problems of High Altitude' on April 6.

Mr. T. H. Braham, a Vice-President of the Club, gave a talk on August 15 on his Indus-Kohistan Exploration, 1962, whilst he was passing through Delhi with John Tyson on their expedition to West Nepal.

3. LONDON REUNION

The London Reunion was held on April 10, 1964. Fifty-two members and guests gathered, amongst whom were Mr. W. Allsup, Mr. and Mrs. N. M. Arnold-Forester, Dr. M. J. Ball, Col. E. St. J. Birnie and Lady Kathleen Birnie, Mr. J. J. Burnet, Mr. C. E. J. Crawford, Mr. G. H. Emerson, O.B.E., Brig. R. A. Gardiner, M.B.E., Mr. and Mrs. S. E. Golledge, Mr. J. Latimer, Mr. and Mrs. D. F. MacMillan, C.B.E., Mr. and Mrs. A. A. Marr, Mr. A. B. Marshall, Miss I. R. Mitchell, Prof, and Mrs. N. E. Odell, Sir Geoffrey and Lady Ramsden, Kt.₉ C.I.E., Mr. and Mrs. V. S. Risoe, M.B.E, Prof. F. C. Rodger, Mrs. D. Ruttledge, Mr. D. W. Soughan, Mr. F. Spencer Chapman, Mr. W. M. Starr, Mr. and Mrs. J. Tyson, Mr. M. Vyvyan.

Before the buffet supper Mr. A. B. Marshall showed his film on Lhonak in 1950.

4. MEMBERSHIP

The Club's membership at present stands at 569, of whom 171 members are resident in India, Pakistan and Nepal. The names of 27 Founder Members and six Honorary Members stand on the Current Members' Register.

5. OBITUARY

We mourn the deaths of the following members:

Major H. M. Banon (H. 1962).
Col. J. Barron (L. 1928).
Col. C. K. Howard-Bury (L. and F. 1928).
H. Dayal, Esq. (1949).
Major J. Dias (1962).
T. A. Freston, Esq. (L. 1960).
H.H. Major Raja Sir Narendra Shah Bahadur of Garhwal (L. 1933).
R. M. Haddow, Esq. (1963).
W. T. Loke, Esq. (L. 1952).
Dr. T. G. Longstaff (L. 1928).
Rev. R. M. V. Marsh (1946).
H.H. Sir Tashi Namgyal (L. 1929).
E. O. Shebbeare, Esq. (H. and F.M.).
E. A. Waters, Esq. (L. 1933).
Mrs. E. A. Waters (L. 1933).

6. LIBRARY

The Library in Calcutta has continued to function satisfactorily and the Sub-Library in Bombay is being established. The Honorary Librarian would always welcome any spare copies of books on the Himalaya that members may wish to donate.

7. EXPEDITIONS 1964

NEPAL

Cho Oyu (26,750 feet) was climbed for the third time by a West German expedition led by Mr. Rudi Rott, Fritz Stammberger and Sherpa Phu Dorji reached the summit on April 26. Members of the expedition also climbed a peak on the West Ridge (c. 24,000 feet) and Napche Himal (c. 20,300 feet). Two members died of exhaustion while on the mountain.

Gaurishankar (23,440 feet). A British expedition led by Mr. Don Williams reached within 200 to 300 feet of the summit. Bad weather conditions were experienced.

Talung (24,112 feet) was climbed for the first time by a German expedition led by Dr. R. Hecktel. The summit was reached by Mr. F. Lindner and Sherpa Tensing Nanda on May 19.

Gyachung Kang (25,910 feet) was climbed for the first time by a Japanese expedition led by Dr. K. Kohara. On April 10, Messrs. Sakaiyawa and Katom with Sherpa Pasang Putra III reached the summit. One member died during the final ascent. Another ascent was made the following day.

Ganesh (23,607 feet), which is south of Annapurna, was climbed for the first time by a Japanese expedition led by Prof. H. Higuchi on October 13. Another ascent was made two days later.

Glacier Dome (23,805 feet), also in the Annapurna group, was climbed by another Japanese expedition on October 16. The expedition was led by Dr. S, Shimalo. The summit was reached by Mr. M. Nishimura and Sherpa Dorji.

Pethantse (22,080 feet) was climbed for the second time on May 16 by a Japanese expedition led by Mr. H. Fukuda.

Langtang Lining (23,750 feet) was attempted twice during the year. In the spring a Japanese expedition reached about 19.000 feet on the South Ridge. In the autumn Peter Taylor led another expedition which reached about 22,000 feet on the West Ridge.

Dorji Lhakpu (22,930 feet) was attempted by an expedition led by Lord Shaftsbury. They reached a height of about 20,000 feet.

Tamserku (21,730 feet) was climbed by four members of an expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary on November 4. Besides climbing the expedition members have been building schools and bridges in the Namche Bazaar area.

Mr. T. H. Braham and Mr. J. Tyson are visiting West Nepal.

Rathong (21,900 feet) which is on the Nepal-Sikkim border was climbed for the first time on October 29. The expedition was led by Col. B. S. Jaswal, of the H.M.I, Darjeeling, and consisted of 25 members. The summit was reached from the Nepal side.

KARAKORAMS

Momnil Sar (24,090 feet) was climbed for the first time by an Austrian expedition led by Mr. H. Schell on June 29, the ascent being made by the S.W. Ridge.

Rakaposhi (25,550 feet) was attempted by the First Irish Expedition led by Mr. P. O'Leary. The final attempt was made by the N.W. Ridge and a height of 20,000 feet was reached.

Hachinder Kish (c. 23,000 feet) was attempted by a Canadian expedition led by Dr. Roots. No practical route to the summit could be found. Another peak in the area named Sang-e- Marmur was also attempted and the party reached a height of over 20,000 feet.

Minapin (23,861 feet) was attempted by an Austrian three-man team led by Mr. W. Frisch. The attempt was given up, due to bad weather conditions.

Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) was attempted by the Rupal flank. The expedition was led by Dr. Herlingkoffer and was abandoned, due to bad weather.

K. 6 (23,890 feet) was attempted by a German expedition led by Mr. P. Lipp. The attempt was abandoned, due to bad weather and technical difficulty.

Mazeno Peak (23,294 feet) in the Nanga Parbat group was attempted by a German expedition led by Mr. P. Rosenthal. The attempt was abandoned, due to bad weather.

GARHWAL

Nanda Devi (25,645 feet) was climbed for the second time by an Indian expedition led by Capt. N. Kumar. The summit was reached by Nowang Gombu and Sherpa Da Norbu on June 22.

Nanda Devi East (24,391 feet) and Tirsuli (23,460 feet) were attempted by an Indian expedition led by Lt.-Comdr. M. S. Kohli.

Bad weather conditions were responsible for the attempts being abandoned.

Mrigthuni (22,420 feet) was climbed on October 10 and 12 by an Indian Ladies' expedition led by Mrs. Joyce Dunsheath.

Panchchuli (22,650 feet) was attempted by an Indian expedition led by Fit. Lt. A. K. Chowdhury. While bad weather foiled the attempt on the main summit, Panchchuli III (20,710 feet), IV (20,780 feet) and V (21,120 feet) were climbed.

Nar Parbat (19,210 feet) was attempted by a Bombay party led by Mr. L. R. Chari. Bad weather conditions were experienced.

Jaonli (21,769 feet) was attempted by a Doon School expedition led by Mr. Hari Dang. A good effort was foiled by bad weather after reaching a height of 19,300 feet.

HINDU KUSH

Shakhaur (23,347 feet) and Udren Zom (23,400 feet) were climbed for the first time by an Austrian expedition led by Dr. G. Gruber. The third ascent of Koh-i-Nadir Shah (23,376 feet) was also made.

Tirich Mir (25,260 feet) was climbed again by a Norwegian expedition led by Prof. Arne Naess on July 27.

A German expedition led by Dietrich Von Dobeneck visited the Langar Valley and climbed four peaks. The highest was named Langar-Hauptgipfel (23,163 feet). The summit was reached by Otto Huber on July 8.

A Cambridge expedition led by Lt. M. W. H. Day visited Siri Dara Plateau in the Swat State. They climbed six peaks, the highest being over 19,000 feet.

PUNJAB

Mulkilla (21,380 feet) was attempted by an Indo-French expedition led by Mr. Hari Dang. The attempt was abandoned 400 feet short of the summit. The party made the first ascent of M. 5 (20,900 feet).

Kulu Pumori (21,500 feet) in the Bara Shigri area (S.S.E. of Concordia) was climbed for the first time by an expedition, led by Mr. R. Pettigrew, on June 6. A second ascent was made three days later.

S1KK1M

An Indian expedition led by Mr. B. Biswas climbed Kabru Dome (21,650 feet).

TIBET

It is reported that the Chinese climbed Goshainthan (26,291 feet) on May 2.

8. TIGER BADGES

The following Tiger Badges have been awarded during the year:

Cheotari... H.C. No. 360 Everest, 1963

Nawang Dorji ... H.C. No. 354 Ang Niyma... H.C. No. 355

Phu Dorji... H.C. No. 351

9. HIMALAYAN JOURNAL, VOL. XXVI

All papers intended for publication should be forwarded to the Hon. Editor, c/o The Himalayan Club, Post Box No. 9049, Calcutta 16. It is requested that articles should be typewritten, and preferably accompanied by sketch-maps; these should be clearly drawn in Indian ink with references given, if possible, to the existing Survey sheets. Photographs should be clear, with caption and definition as accurate and sharp as possible; they should be at least half-plate size, printed on glossy papers. The Editor will be glad to receive articles of general Himalayan interest and also on subjects other than climbing.

10. JOURNAL BACK NUMBERS

The only volumes now available for sale are Vols. XVII, XIX, XX, XXI, XXII, XXIII and XXIV which are priced at Rs.10 per copy, post free for members, and applies to one copy per member. In some cases additional copies can be made available at Rs.14 per copy, post free.

11. DESPATCH OF THE JOURNAL

Responsibility for non-delivery of the Journal cannot be accepted if members do not notify their change of address. Considerable trouble is caused in re-addressing Journals returned, and duplicate copies cannot be sent except on payment.

12. CHANGE OF ADDRESS

Members are requested to notify the Hon. Secretary promptly of any change of address. If this Journal has not been correctly addressed, will you plc.ise advise the Hon. Secretary immediately of the alterations.

13. LOST MEMBERS

The Club is still endeavouring to trace a few Life Members with whom they have lost contact. Any information as to their whereabouts will be greatly appreciated by the Hon. Secretary:

Lt. H. A. Dorr.
Major E. F. Marriot, R.A.
Herr Erwin Schneider.
Mr. D. F. Spink.
Dr. H. De Terra.
Mr. R. G. Wagnet.

14. JOURNAL INDEX

Mr. D. F. O. Dangar has very kindly indexed Volume XXIV and this has been printed and included with this Journal. Should any members require copies of the Journal Index, Vols. I- XXIII, they are still available either from Mr. V. S. Risoe in London or the Honorary Librarian in Calcutta.

15. JOURNALS RECEIVED

We gratefully acknowledge receipt during the year of the following journals and publications in exchange for our Journal:

The Alpine Journal.
The Geographical Journal.
Journal of the Royal Central Asian Society.
The British Ski Year Book.
Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journal.
The Rucksack Club Journal.
Cambridge Mountaineering.
The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.
Mountaincraft,
The American Alpine Journal.
The New Zealand Alpine Journal.
The Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa.
Appalachian Club Bulletins.
La Montagne et Alpinisme.
Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpcnvereins.
Journal of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
Japanese Alpine Club Journal.
Journal of the United Services Institutions, India.
The Italian Alpine Club Journal.
The Canadian Alpine Journal.
Austrian Alpine Club Journal.
The CUmbers' Club Journal.
The Fell and Rock Club Journal.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Journal.
Ladies' Alpine Club Journal.

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