PAKISTAN-JAPAN JOINT KARA- KORAM EXPEDITION TO SALTORO KANGRI, 1962

PROF. T. SHIDEI

The year 1959 marked the thirtieth anniversary of the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto (A.A.C.K.). Saltoro Kangri (7,742 m.), which had been one of our long-cherished mountains for years, was taken as an objective for an expedition commemorating the anniversary. But we were unable to get permission from the Government of Pakistan to attempt Saltoro Kangri, although we submitted an application every year from 1959 to 1961. Then the A.A.C.K. decided to dispatch someone to Pakistan who would be able to negotiate directly with the Pakistani authorities concerned, in order to find out where the difficulties existed and what our best alternative should be in case Saltoro Kangri turned out beyond our reach.

Y. Takamura, a member of the 1958 A.A.C.K. expedition to Chogolisa,10 flew to Karachi on June 3, 1961. Prof. T. Shidei, who was to be leader of the expedition, followed a month later. Having made every possible effort and inquiry, with the help of the Embassy of Japan in Karachi, they came to the conclusion that there would be many advantages if the expedition could be carried out in the form of a joint venture with Pakistanis. Collaboration was immediately made with the Karakoram Club of Lahore through Prof. A. H. Beg, who was then Vice-President of the Club, and with whom we had been associated by the two joint expeditions between Kyoto University and Panjab University, which had been held successfully in 1956 and 1957 respectively.

Footnote

  1. See H.J., Vol. XXI, p. 78.

 

Our long-awaited permission was granted at last, when Japanese Prime Minister Hayato Ikeda was on a State visit to Pakistan in November, and happened to talk over the matter with the President of Pakistan, F.M. Mohammed Ayub Khan. They both agreed that the plan would help promote the already existing understanding and goodwill between Japan and Pakistan. Our continual efforts and the Prime Minister's timely visit combined to make this protracted plan finally possible.

No sooner had the news arrived at Kyoto than the selection of members was started. The following ten were selected:

Dr. T. Shidei, 58, leader (Professor of the Kyoto University, Physics).

T. Kato, 51, deputy leader. Member of the 1954 expedition to Manaslu and the 1958 expedition to Chogolisa (Director of a company).

Dr. K. Hayashi, 36, climbing leader and expedition doctor. Member of the 1953 expedition to Manaslu (Research member of the Kyoto University, Medical Department).

Dr. A. Saito, 32, climber and expedition doctor (Research member of the Kyoto University, Medical Department).

K. Hirai, 30, climber. Member of the 1958 expedition (Lecturer of the Kyoto University, Technological Department).

G. Iwatsubo, 28, climber. Member of the 1957 expedition to Swat, the 1958 expedition, and the 1960 expedition to Noshaq (Post-graduate student of the Kyoto University, Forestry).

Y. Takamura, 27, climber. Member of the 1958 expedition to Chogolisa (Post-graduate student of the Kyoto University, Agriculture).

Y. Tani, 27, climber (Lecturer of the Humanistic Research Institute of the Kyoto University).

T. Maegoya, 25, climber (Post-graduate student of the Kyoto University, Geology. He was then studying at the Panjab University and was to join the party in Pakistan).

S. Uyeo, 24, climber (Post-graduate student of the Kyoto University, Pharmacy).

We might well be proud of the party for its experience and toughness. Four members, including Prof. A. H. Beg from the Karakoram Club, were expected to join us in Pakistan.

Prof. A. H. Beg, 60, leader of the Pakistani team, and Hayat Ahmad Khan (Honorary Secretary of the Karakoram Club) were decided by the Club in February, but two other actual climbing members were left undecided even at the end of March.

Dr. Saito, Hirai, Tani and Uyeo left Kobe for Karachi on April 5, 1962, by the Japanese liner Nissanmaru, accompanied by about six tons of their luggage. Dr. Hayashi and Takamura preceded them to Karachi by air, so that they might pave the way to Rawalpindi. The ship reached Karachi on April 8 without any trouble. Prof. Shidei, Kato and Iwatsubo came on the 11th by air. Here we met our liaison officer, Capt. B. A. Bashir. We found in him a little uneasy smack of a military man. But he showed wonderful ability throughout the expedition and was of tremendous help to us in carrying out the expedition successfully. Dr. Furuuchi, Ambassador of the Embassy of Japan in Karachi, was kind enough to make Mr. Y. Makiuchi, Third Secretary of the Embassy, accompany us up to Skardu.

Prof. Shidei, Kato, Dr. Hayashi, Takamura and Mr. Makiuchi dropped in at Lahore to discuss details of the expedition with the Karakoram Club. Here they knew for the first time the names of the two Pakistani climbing members, Rajar Bashir, 24 (ex-P.I.A. officer), and Pervez Khan, 20, student. They also learned that under unavoidable circumstances all the members of the Karakoram Club, except R. Bashir, would not be able to leave Lahore before the middle of June. They said they would follow us later.

Towards the middle of May ten Japanese, Mr. Makiuchi and all the members of the Japanese side, except Maegoya, who was ill in hospital at Lahore, suffering from liver trouble, and was to follow the party as soon as possible, along with two Pakistanis, R. Bashir and Capt. Bashir, were ready at Rawalpindi to take the famous flight for Skardu. We were very lucky to be able to arrive at Skardu all at once, together with loads, on May 20, by two planes.

About 60 miles of jeepable road from Skardu to Kapalu had been opened the previous year. Maegoya joined the party on the 28th at Skardu. Mr. Makiuchi returned on the 30th. Indeed we were very grateful to him for the trouble he took for us.

By the end of May the last member of the expedition and the last luggage reached Kapalu. On June 2 we were on our march toward the Siachen, accompanied by ten high-altitude porters and 170 coolies. For four days we marched along the Saltoro river and on the fifth day we arrived in Goma, the last inhabited village. We stayed here for three days to purchase atta for the coolies and select an additional 30 coolies to carry it. We resumed our march on the 9th and, passing the beautiful place called Gharyi, we at last came to the Bilafond Glacier. After two days' painstaking march on the glacier we managed to set up our temporary Base Camp at 4,800 m. on a medial moraine of the glacier near Ali Brangsa.

A touch of high-altitude sickness swept over some members for the first but last time. Maegoya proved unfit, due to deterioration of his liver trouble. Snow fell every day, and the temperature at night and morning was very low. We realized that we had come too early.

Our expedition might be likened to 'hop, step and jump'. We had just finished our 6 hopNext ' step' was to carry loads over the Bilafond La (5,500 m.) and arrive at the foot of Saltoro Kangri through the Lolofond, the Siachen and the Peak 36 glaciers. We had, of course, anticipated the difficulty of this approach, but there was no better route to be found.

The 1935 British team had done wonderful work, coming near to success. After having reconnoitred possible approaches, they took the Likhar Glacier as their line of communication, which turned out to be no easy one. The other possible route was either to find a passable way over the Bilafond Wall down the Peak 36 Glacier11 or to take the longest but apparently the safest Siachen route. The former being also highly improbable, as they mentioned, we chose the safest.

Footnote

  1. As did the 1935 party; see H.J., Vol. VIII, p. 16.
    I OB

 

At the temporary B.C., we paid off all but 50 coolies. We provided each with a pair of caravan boots, a wind jacket and a blanket. How to carry out the difficult and long transportation over the Bilafond La smoothly was really the key to success, and for that reason we had brought equipment for coolies. On June 17 we were ready to begin our 'step'. The following 15 days were the toughest part of the expedition, next only to the actual climbing stage itself. The preceding party, led by Kato, left B.C. to find out the safest way and places for depots, and they pitched three relaying depots between the temporary B.C. and the confluence of the Siachen and Peak 36 glaciers where our advance B.C. was to be set up. These depots were named Bilafond Camp, Lolofond Camp and Siachen Camp after their locations respectively. Dr. Saito, Hirai, Tani and R. Bashir were allocated to each camp to assist the transportation. Prof. Shidei and Dr. Hayashi supervised the whole operation. Harassed by intermittent snow and a net of hidden crevasses, our march was like that of a loopworm.

By the beginning of July, we had finished setting up A.B.C. (Advanced Base Camp). Here we discharged 20 coolies and retained ten for further transportation up to Camp 2. We had a few days' rest in A.B.C. The view was beyond description and it was really a treat for us mountaineers to be here, deep in the Siachen Glacier, the second largest glacier in the world, outside the Polar regions. But soon tension took the place of relaxation

Route map from Goma

Route map from Goma

View east from the summit of Saltoro Kangri

View east from the summit of Saltoro Kangri

The way to Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Peak 36 Glacier was comparatively easy, so that we could use local coolies as well as high- altitude porters. Camp 2 was pitched on July 6 at the foot of Saltoro Kangri in the sanctuary of the Peak 36 Glacier. The whole massif of Saltoro Kangri was revealed at last, ready to challenge our jump'.

Immediately after Camp 2 had been set up, no time was lost in making a short reconnaissance of the South-east ridge. The first obstacle we had to tackle was to find out a possible route through the ice corridor, the condition of which in 1957, according to E. E. Shipton, had deteriorated since the 1935 attempt. To our great relief, the lower part of the British route was not so difficult as it seemed in 1957, and after two days' strenuous efforts we managed to negotiate the ice-wall of 60 m., which had been first traced by the British 27 years before, by fixing ropes and a rope-ladder just below a plateau at the height of 6,000 m. on which Camp 3 was to be pitched.

When J. Waller and Sir J. Hunt, members of the British team, made an attempt on Saltoro Kangri, they were forced to try the mountain within very limited time, due to the bad weather. But they managed to pitch their assault camp at 6,700 m. on the South-east ridge of the mountain. The weather did not smile on them and they had to retreat, leaving the last 200 m. which provided seemingly no technical difficulty.

The weather was bad for the next ten days. Blizzards and avalanches from the broad face between Peaks 35 and 36 were daily events in our confined life in Camp 2. However, we were not idle. Transportation from the A.B.C. to Camp 2 continued, mostly by the HAPs. We did not miss the short breaks in the weather to carry the necessary loads to Camp 3 and fix the route between. Sometimes we enjoyed skiing at this altitude of 5,500 m, and it was a thrilling experience, with a suffocating sense.

On July 11 Perves Khan, and on July 15 Hayat Ahmad Khan, arrived at Camp 2 respectively. (Pakistani members, except R. Bashir, left Lahore on June 20 and followed us. Prof. Beg was then at the A.B.C. with our leader. Prof. Shidei.) After only one day's stay at Camp 2, H. A. Khan had to leave us, since a lot of unfinished work for the expedition—for example, raising of money—was awaiting him in Lahore.

According to our plan, the next thing for us to do was to consolidate Camp 3 and push Camp 4 as high as possible so that our last camp might be pitched above 7,000 m.

On July 16, Dr. Hayashi and four members left Camp 2 for Camp 3, supported by seven HAPs. Every time we climbed this way we were harassed by deep snow, sometimes waist-deep. The porters got back to Camp 2 the same day. Occasional exchanges of opinion between camps were made through the 'transceiver' wireless set.

Just above Camp 3 on the plateau, we faced the huge snow- wall. It was divided into two parts by a big vertical crevasse. There was a constant threat of avalanche and we well knew that Sir John Hunt and his party had been caught at this place by wind-slab. We took the left side of the slope at first which seemed to be 60 degrees, setting the 100 m. of fixed rope. The upper part of this snow-wall was a vast stretch of a snow-slope of lesser steepness. But we were forced to change the route to the right side of the slope later because of an avalanche which swept away the former route. The slope of the right side was steeper, and we had to set a 20 m. rope-ladder and 100 m. of fixed rope.

On July 18, Kato with four members and three capable HAPs, Rasul, Rahim and Isack, came up to Camp 3 in stormy weather. Now all the active members were ready at Camp 3. After elaborate considerations, Kato decided Dr. Saito, Takamura and R. Bashir as the first assault party. Camp 4 was set up in a narrow flat place in the steep slope at about 6,400 m. on July 19 with the help of Hirai, Iwatsubo and three porters. Then six members (assault party: Dr. Saito, Takamura and Bashir. Support party: Dr. Hayashi, Tani and Uyeo) occupied that camp in high spirits.

The following day dawned with severe snowfalls at Camp 4. To push up for the final camp was out of the question and they were busy clearing snow-drifts to protect their tents from being buried. Not a moment were they immune from the dangerous seracs above. Despite the conditions, all the members at Camp 4 were, on the whole, in good condition although there were some who complained of slight headache. On July 22, a fine but windy day, the six members left Camp 4 to pitch Camp 5. Just above Camp 4 there was a crevasse of medium size. They made around it on the left side and climbed up into a vast snow-field at an angle of 35 degrees. They climbed up to 6,600 m. with considerable ease because of the tracks they had made the previous day. But beyond that, they had to fight against deep and heavy snow. What with the deep snow and their heavy loads, they could not reach above 7,000 m. A small tent for two men, one sleeping-bag, the simplest cooking set, special food for high altitude and two Japanese and one Pakistani comprised Camp 5, located a little below 7,000 m. The support party returned late in the evening.

Saltoro Kangri, seen from peak 36 glacier

Saltoro Kangri, seen from peak 36 glacier

View from camp 3

View from camp 3

Bilafond la (5,500 m.) from Bilafond glacier

Bilafond la (5,500 m.) from Bilafond glacier

Dr. Saito, Takamura and Bashir spent the night before their final assault, dressed in complete suits, and only one sleeping-bag served them as a cover. The severe cold at night did not seem to disturb their sound sleep in the small tent.

The three climbers succeeded in climbing to the summit on July 24, after one bivouac, blessed with fine weather.

The following account is written by Dr. A. Saito, who led the assault party.

Final Assault

At 1.30 a.m. on July 23, we (R. Bashir, Takamura and myself) awoke in our narrow and constrained tent at 7,000 m. and prepared a simple hotch-potch with tomato ketchup for our breakfast. Our appetite was good for this height but our very slack movement made us feel the altitude.

At 4 am., we started to climb the "snow-face of 35 degrees above Gamp 5. Snow was not favourable and we had to wade in knee-deep powder snow here with our wakanjiki (Japanese snow rackets) on. It was a perfect day with no wind, the temperature being -5° C.

After negotiating this snow-face, we approached the dome on the South-east ridge. We traversed the dome on its left side and struggled upward through a snow-field, the left end of which falls abruptly to the upper Likhar Glacier. Towards 10 a.m. Takamura collapsed suddenly and vomited. He apparently lacked acclimatization. But as a doctor I was confident that he would manage the climb. We resumed our wading in deep snow at a slow pace, and after a while a candle-shaped aiguille loomed closer and bigger. It was a huge pinnacle situated at the junction of the main and south-east ridges. As it became nearer, we guessed its height as 200 m. and there was a big depression beside its base which would no doubt give us some trouble. We had to pass the depression, making round on its right side. From here, for the first time, we were able to command the final stretch uninterrupted. There seemed to be four peaks on the final ridge and we could not yet recognize where the top was. On our way round the depression, the snow became waist-deep. It was already 2.30 p.m. and by this time we were rather tired. Judging from the condition of the snow, it would take us five or six hours to reach the summit from here. This made us decide to bivouac here at a height of 7,400 m. Flattening the place, we soon slipped into a small zeltsack.

We slept till 6 p.m. while it was still warm. Hard biscuits, wafers and tea were our light supper for the night. At 8 p.m. it started blowing rather severely and the temperature began to fall. Our breath instantly froze, to stick to the inside part of the tent. Wind came relentlessly from an opening between our feet and the tent. When we lay down, we could hardly breathe, but when we squatted, it became a little easier and comfortable.

I could hardly doze for more than 30 minutes through the night before 2 a.m. Outside there was bright moonlight. Our legs had become paralysed and it was so cold that inactivity was no longer bearable.

We started at 2 a.m. only to find that the waist-deep snow which had harassed us the previous day did not relent today. It was windy and the temperature was around -15° C. A little past the depression the snow became knee-deep. We continued a long-distance swim in the snow-field until we got to the foot of the supposed final slope. We took the lead in turns. Takamura doing his share in spite of his bad condition. The angle was about 35 degrees. After an hour's climbing we could at last see the top clearly and here we took some vitamins and enriched food in order to replenish our energy. We kicked our crampons into the snow carefully for the last 50 m. climbing to the final ridge that led to the top. There was no cornice. We proceeded along the final stretch, looking down to the left at the steep rock faces in the Dongdong Glacier and the Kharkondus Valley. The snow-capped summit was finally in front of us. I tied the national flags of Pakistan and Japan to the ice-axe, together with the banner of the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto. I handed it over to Bashir. He carried it on to the top of Saltoro Kangri. He raised the ice-axe with flapping small flags on the crest. It was 10.45 a.m., July 24, 1962. We shook hands in silence. It was so fine on the summit that we were able to enjoy a splendid panorama. To the north-west, Chogolisa, which was first ascended by our club, K2 and the Gasherbrum range could be seen. To the east, Shingi Kangri, Teram Kangri, Apsarsas group and countless summits made a magnificent sight. Directly south, the gigantic massif of K12 soared over a sea of cloud. At noon we succeeded in calling the Camps below on the 'transceiver' which we had brought with us, saying that we had done it. At 12.15 p.m., after taking some bean jelly, we left the summit. Very much exhausted we began to descend. Just after we passed the steep slope above Camp 5, we met Dr. Hayashi and Iwatsubo who came to meet us. They were both overjoyed to find that we were safe. We arrived at Camp 5 at 6 p.m.

The second and third attempts on the summit were abandoned, due to the bad weather.

C.5, C.4 and C.3 were withdrawn immediately and on July 26 all members (Prof. Shidei, Prof. Beg and Capt. Bashir were then in C.2) were together at C.2 and celebrated our success.

Our return journey from A.B.C. was begun on August 4. We were favoured by a spell of fine weather while we were walking on the glaciers. The last member of the expedition came back to Skardu on August 20.

In closing this report, mention should be made that the party had wide scientific interests, being composed of competent persons in every field. But, to our regret, any kind of scientific activity in the Siachen region was strictly prohibited by the Pakistani authorities, so we returned empty-handed, except for some results on medical science at high altitudes.

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