EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

  1. KULU NOTES,1963-64
  2. IN GARHWAL AGAIN
  3. In Loving Memory of Joan Margaret Leggie
  4. SECOND ASCENT OF THARKOT (SIMSAGA), 20,010 FEET
  5. TIGER BADGE AWARDS

 

 

1 KULU NOTES,1963-64

By ROBERT PETTIGREW

Mention was made in the last ' Kulu Notes' of plans by Bob Menzies and the writer to climb in Kulu during the post- monsoon season, 1963. An article describing the party's achievements in the Solang nullah will be found elsewhere in this Journal.

For anyone with moderate altitude ambitions, say, 19,000-20,000 feet, the well-defined mountain group west of Manali offers unlimited scope.21 It is bounded on the west by the watershed ridge running due north-south between Kulu and the Bara Bangahal. This ridge maintains a fairly constant height of about 17,000 feet rising at intervals to summits almost certainly unclimbed. Its complexities, from a mountaineering aspect, are virtually unexplored though, like most corners of Kulu, it is known to shikaris. The group is bounded on the north by the Solang stream, on the east by the river Beas, and on the south by the Manalsu stream. Of the tangled knot of mountains contained therein only one major summit has been climbed—that of the Solang Weisshorn, 19,450 feet, believed to be named Hanuman Tibba by the local hillmen, and marked as Point 19,450 feet on the Survey of India Sheet 52H/SW. The first ascent was made in 1912 by Bruce's guide Fiihrer with some Gurkha orderlies. There are numerous other summits, ridges and faces in this overlooked pocket of Kulu.

At the request of the committee the writer has begun the job of registering the Ladakhi high-altitude porters who live in Manali with a view to systematizing their hire along the lines adopted for the Sherpas of Nepal.22 The porters so far registered have been issued with passport type chit books bearing a numbered photograph. Prospective employers are requested to record their comments on their performance, standard of mountaineering ability, etc., in the chit book. A corresponding record of each porter is being kept by the Club.

Footnote

  1. See sketch-map ' Odd Corners in Kulu' by the same author.
  2. See photo.

 

If basic equipment such as boots, windproof clothing, sweaters, air-beds, sleeping-bags and crampons is provided by the expedition, the daily rate is Rs.6, plus food. Such equipment is regarded as being on loan but the practice has grown up in Kulu, as elsewhere, of presenting it at the conclusion of the trip as baksheesh. When no equipment is provided, the daily rate is Rs.9, plus food. The additional Rs.3 is, in effect, a hire charge for equipment which the porters undertake to obtain. For mountaineers living in India this is a valuable service because it is virtually impossible at the time of writing to obtain equipment in any quantity. A distinction should be made also between valley' porters, i.e. those that are taken as far as Base Camp, or the snowline, and high-altitude porters who are capable of accompanying the climbers to the summit and play a significant part in the ascent of a major peak. For 4 valley' porters, who generally do not need special equipment, the daily rate is Rs.5 on the outward, laden, journey and Rs.3.50 on the inward, unladen, journey. Food is not provided for these porters. The current situation on availability and charges can always be ascertained by writing to the Honorary Local Secretary, Kulu: John Banon, the Manali Orchards, Manali, Kulu Valley, Punjab.

Ladakh porters in Manali, Kulu. Bob Pettigrew, third from right  October, 1963. (Bob Pettigrew)

Photo: Bob Pettigrew

Ladakh porters in Manali, Kulu. Bob Pettigrew, third from right October, 1963.

In the post-monsoon season of 1963, Steven R. Miller, an American mountaineer, made a solo ascent of a peak in the North containing wall of the Solang nullah where it forms the Kulu-Lahul Divide, which he claimed as a first ascent. From his brief account3 this writer believes that he actually climbed Shiti Dhar, 17,358 feet, the first ascent of which was made by a British party with the Ladakhi Wangyal a few years ago.4

During the pre-monsoon period of 1964 Dr. Franz Mohling and the writer, with the Ladakhis Wangyal and Ang Chook, made the first ascent on June 6 of the Kulu Pumori, 21,500 feet, a notable peak on the Kulu-Lahul-Spiti watershed. It had been attempted by J. P. O'F. Lynam's party in 1961.5 All four climbers reached the summit. The party also visited the Kunzam La, 14,931 feet, the pass between Lahul and Spiti. A full account appears elsewhere in the Journal.

 

 

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2 IN GARHWAL AGAIN

By NIRMAL CHANDRA MAITRA

It is probably a good thing that neither the development ambitions of the Uttar Pradesh Government nor of the Indian Planning Commission, nor even the elementary strategic imperatives of the present moment to concentrate forces rapidly at the Mana and Niti Passes, have succeeded yet in bringing about any improvement in the condition of the Gwaldam-Joshimath route over the Kuari Pass that passes through Central Garhwal. It remains a trekker's paradise up to the Pass beyond Wan—after which, up to Jhinjhi, below Kaliaghat, it is a cross-country, Douglas Fairbanks job, a via dolorosa in broken patches, even in October, to say nothing of the rains.

But the compensations start right from Gwaldam Forest Rest House, and not with the beauty of the mountainscape only. The Visitors' Book here is something to which anybody with a sense of history would immediately react, possibly with a thrill; the current book begins in 1932. Reading it is like glancing through the vivid snapshots of some of the highlights of early Indian mountaineering.

One of the earliest entries is on 31.5.32: Marcel Kurz. The famous mountaineer, author of the Himalayan Chronicle, ‘as knowledgeable about the Himalaya as he is about the Alps' (Bernard Pierre), was not alone. He had another with him, name illegible. A little after this, the following entry stands out very legibly:

H.W. Tilman, E.E. Shipton - 13.5.34.

H.W. Tilman, E.E. Shipton - 13.5.34.

This was the time of which Tilman writes in his Two Mountains and a River: 4 When Mr. Shipton and I were in Garhwal, we did a high-level traverse from Badrinath across the watershed to Gangotri over the neve of several glaciers where we- encountered snow conditions in which skis would undoubtedly have kept us somewhere near the surface instead of two or three feet below it.' Shipton also describes this trek. In 1934, Shipton and Tilman, with three Sherpa porters, went to Garhwal, having as their main objective the entrance and mapping of the Nanda Devi Basin. They visited Badrinath twice in this year.

The next important entry is again that of H. W. Tilman, this time with W. F. Loomis, on May 30, 1936.

One remembers that in The Ascent of Nanda Devi, Tilman says he forgot how many wires he sent to Bombay to locate Loomis; he did not know where Loomis was and feared he might have already started for Sikkim. 4 The American Consul, all the Travel Agencies and the Shipping Line seemed a wide enough net', and next day he had the satisfaction of knowing that he had caught him. They arranged by wire to meet in Ranikhet on May 28.

So, on May 30, two days after arriving (at Ranikhet), they started out, ‘the party consisting of two Sherpas, a 104b. Cheddar cheese \ Tilman and Loomis. Gwaldam, where they stopped for the night,' is over 3,000 feet higher than Garur and ten miles away. At Gwaldam a bungalow welcomes the traveller.'

'I remembered', says Tilman in his Ascent, 'the march to Gwaldam in 1934 was a decidedly grim affair, for it was a grilling hot day in May, and when we finally crawled into the bungalow we were more dead than alive.'

On July 10, 1936, nearly the whole Nanda Devi Expedition was at Gwaldam Forest Rest House, attested by the following entries on that date:

  1. T. Graham Brown.
  2. N. E. Odell.
  3. P. Lloyd.
  4. W. F. Loomis.
  5. Ghas. Houston.

' The Gwaldam bungalow is a poor place, at least for a party of six', says Tilman in his Ascent. There are five names in the book; it seems that Tilman wrote them out but did not sign his. name himself. The writing is all in the same hand.

Now comes:

F. S. Smythe—5.6.37.

He notes in the Visitors' Book that he did not use the bungalow but 4 camped out

' Everything was ready on the morning of June 5 and the lorry which was to convey me the first part of my journey was packed to capacity with fifteen porters and some 1,000 lb. of luggage. This journey, of some fifty-five miles from Ranikhet to the village of Garur, was along narrow roads ... So at last, after ten miles' walk and an ascent of some 4,000 feet, I emerged from the forest on to the ridge where the bungalow stands overlooking the haze- filled depths of the Pindar Valley to the remote gleam of the Himalayan snows.' {The Valley of Flowers, by Smythe.)

This was the occasion when Smythe repeated his visit to the Valley of Flowers, to introduce it to the world, including India. His magnum opus on the Valley followed this visit.

More often than not, during this trek, Mr. Smythe avoided bungalows and ' camped outIn his Mountain Vision, he records that he used to camp out alone in Garhwal by night, on the banks of mountain streams and rivulets—and they seemed to talk to him! Nearly all his works are full of such nostalgic reminiscences.

Knowledge of the Valley of Flowers through Frank Smythe led, however, to a notable tragedy and the prelude to this happens to be the most melancholy entry in the book. It comes shortly after Smythe.

Lady Joan Leggie—25.5.39.

A martyr to the Valley of Flowers and so far the only one. She died of an accident in the Valley, while plucking flowers, on July 4, 1939 ; that is, exactly 41 days after Gwaldam. And she was buried in the midst of the hills she loved so well. The epitaph on her rock-garden tomb is as beautiful as her life in the Valley was:

 

 

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3 In Loving Memory of Joan Margaret Leggie

February 21st, 1885
July 4th, 1939.

I will lift up mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my help!

The Swiss Climbing Party was at Gwaldam Forest Rest House on 26.9.39:

A. Roch.
Steuri.
D. Zogg.
E. Huber.

Mme. Rohner and R. Rahaul, of the Swiss Himalayan Expedition, were here on 10.9.47, closely followed by Alex Grover and Alfred Gritter on 14.9.47 and Rene Dittart and Andre Roch on 17.9.47.

Then comes the full complement of the Scottish Himalayan Expedition of 1950:

12.5.50.

T. D. MacKinnon, W. H. Murray, D. Scott, T. Weir - 12.5.50

T. D. MacKinnon, W. H. Murray, D. Scott, T. Weir - 12.5.50

The New Zealanders came along the next year:

W. G. Lowe, M. Cotter, H. E. Riddtford, E. P. Hillary, K. F. Bunshah - 1.6.51.0

W. G. Lowe, M. Cotter, H. E. Riddtford, E. P. Hillary, K. F. Bunshah - 1.6.51.

H. E. Riddiford, W. G. Lowe, E. M. Cotter, E. P. Hillary - 22.8.51

H. E. Riddiford, W. G. Lowe, E. M. Cotter, E. P. Hillary - 22.8.51

And the last name is certainly great enough to close the series.

The name most respectfully associated with mountain exploration in Garhwal is, of course, that of Dr. T. S, Longstaff. It is a pleasure to find him represented in the Visitors' Book by his son, C. C. Longstaff. And this reminded me of a striking entry I once saw in the Lepchajagat Forest Rest House, near Darjeeling. Mr. Osmaston (Sr.) noted, when he left the bungalow on a rather remote occasion, that it was 'raining'. Thirty or forty years after, his son Mr. Osmaston (Jr.) comes along, refers to his father's entry and notes: 23 It is still raining.'

Footnote

  1. Unknown', not to others, but to me.

 

But rain or sun, mountain-trekking remains only too obviously one of the superior pleasures of life, for it intensifies the sweetness of living and age is hardly any handicap. 4 He who has never lived like a gypsy does not know how to enjoy life as a gentleman', runs an old saying.

After Gwaldam, the first monumental break in the forest skyline (flat-topped Nanda Ghunti, of course) is at Debal. It breaks again as one leaves Koel Ganga behind, but disappears soon after. The top of Lohajung Pass is a striking observation post; and, from after Wan, or rather from Kanol, one nearly always has the snow-range for company. At various points on the route, the two ends of the arc may be watched together, the Badrinath peaks on one side and the Nanda Ghunti peaks on the other, green moun- tians in between. At the Kuari Pass, the middle, green segment of the arc is there no longer; the whole of it is stupendous snow— a glorious goal. Nevertheless, the movement, the trekking is everything, the goal nothing. Or rather, there is no goal at all, it is a journey without end.

There were no jewels buried in the sand,
The treasure that I sought was little worth,
I went—hut oh, how few will understand,
To tread an unknown carpet of the earth.

 

 

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4 SECOND ASCENT OF THARKOT (SIMSAGA), 20,010 FEET

By K. P. SHARMA, I.N.

Sher wood College, Naini Tal, was once again the scene of hectic activity at an unearthly hour of May 19, 1963. Soon we were off by a chartered bus on the first leg of the 80-mile journey to Brari. Those who took part in this expedition were six boys between the age groups of 14^ and 17^ years, K. S. Thapa and J. Gardner, all from Sherwood College, two sailors, B. B. Ambastha and I, and two Sherpas. Forty porters previously arranged by our faithful Sirdar, Pan Singh Bhotia, of Chaura (village), P.O. Loharkhet, joined us at Brari.

Our march to the beautiful meadow of Sundardhunga was done in five easy stages-Loharkhet 10 miles, Saran 8 miles, Jatoli (last village) 8 miles, Dhungyadond 6 miles and Sundardhunga itself 5 miles. Here we gave ourselves a day to reorganize our loads and to have a peep at the Maiktoli Glacier.

Passing the rock face on the right of the river Sundardhunga, the Base Camp was established at 13,700 feet on May 27. The weather was perfect and tempted us to trudge about a mile into the Sukhram Glacier from where the summit of Tharkot and the approach route could be viewed. What we saw was a series of lateral moraines before the main glacier again, immense snow- fields interspersed with jagged rocks and a very long bergschrund about 1,000 feet below the summit. We were not equipped to have undertaken this kind of route and an alternative route had to be found. It lay on the left of the Sukhram Glacier which we had explored during the previous year's recce, under Commander John Atkinson.

On the 29th, Camp I was established at about 15,700 feet. It was very satisfying that the boys were standing up to the altitude very well. Next day, while we were negotiating a 70-foot rock pitch at about 17,600 feet, a huge rock dislodged itself and hit Pan Singh on his thigh. He had the presence of mind to hold the fixed rope firmly and so saved all three of his rope-mates from certain death. He was, however, incapacitated for the rest of the expedition. We continued upwards in knee-deep snow on a deceptive ridge till a suitable spot for pitching a tent was reached at about 18,600 feet and then we returned to Camp I, tired but very happy. It was decided to attempt the summit in two parties. On the following day the first summit party reached Camp II. After a rest, Lhakpa and I climbed up to investigate the large bergschrund which we had seen from the glacier on the day of our arrival at Base Gamp. We were fortunate to find a snow bridge, almost made to order, across it. From there onwards we climbed a steep zig-zagging route to the heavily corniced East ridge. The route along this sharp ridge, apart from being longer, was dangerous. A shorter route involving a 400 ft. stretch of rock- climbing which would eliminate the zig-zag from the crevasse, was also seen.

Tharkot range. Tharkot on right.

Tharkot range. Tharkot on right.

On our return, D' day plans were discussed and Shukla and Chakraborty the youngest had to be dropped from the summit parties, as it would have been too much to expect of these young boys. Next morning Gardner also reported siqk. Now Thapa, Lhakpa and I set out from Camp II at 5.50 a.m. along the shorter rock-face route. By 8 o'clock we had crossed it and were once again on such deep snow that our tracks were clearly visible far below from Camps I and II. At 9.22 a.m. we stepped on the summit which 19 years ago was climbed by the late C. W. F. Noyce and Geoffrey Rawlinson. It was a bright sunny day with practically no wind. We could see Trisul, Nanda Kot, Maiktoli with its sheer South wall and the Nanda Devi range. The whole route from the Sukhram Glacier onwards was also visible from the top.

Ambastha and Hisse left Camp I at 4.45 a.m. to head straight for the summit. At their fast pace they reached the top at 10.40. In the evening we all assembled at Camp I to celebrate our ascents with an excellent dinner and to plan our descent from those dizzy heights where we had fulfilled our dream.

 

 

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4 TIGER BADGE AWARDS

Mr. M. J. Cheney, our local secretary in Darjeeling, has prepared an up-to-date list of Tiger Badge awards recorded below :

Official roll of Tiger Badges awarded up to July 31, 1964

Year Name HC No. Expedition Address Remarks
1939 Lewa 46 Everest 1936 (British) Died 1948
1939 Pasang Kikuli 8 Not known Died 1939
1939 Kusang Namgir 9 Not stated Died 1950
1939 Ang Tharkay 19 Everest 1938(British) Darjeeling Working in Nepal
1939 Wangdi Norbu 25 Not stated Died 1952
1939 Lakpa Tenzing 30 Everest 1938 Gangtok
1939 Renzing 32 Not stated Died 1947
1939 Tenzing Norgay 48 Everest 1939 Darjeeling
1939 Dawa Thondup 49 K 2 1939 Darjeeling
1939 Dawa Tsering 53 Not stated Died 1939
1939 Palden 54 Not stated Died 1951
1939 Pasang Dawa Lama 139 Not stated Darjeeling
1939 Lobsang 144 Not stated Died 1945
1939 Ang Tsering 3 Not stated Died 1949
1940 Ang Tsering III (Pansv) 51 Not stated Darjeeling
1940 Aila 61 Not stated Kathmandu  
1940 Gender 91 Not stated Reported dead
1953 Ang Temba III 155 Everest 1953 (British) Darjeeling H.M.I. Instr.
1953 Annulla 170 Everest 1953 Khumbu
1953 Ajiba 10 Everest 1952 (Swiss) Darjeeling
1953 Ang Tsering 36 Everest 1952 Darjeeling
1953 Sarki 151 Everest 1952   Died 1960
1953 Da Namgyal 157 Everest 1952 Darjeeling H.M.I. Instr.
1953 Dawa Tenzing 173 Everest 1953 (British) Khumbu
1953 Ang Nima 176 Everest 1953 Darjeeling (2/10 Gurkha Rifles)
1953 Pasang Phuta 188 Everest 1953 Khumbu
1953 Ang Namgyal 190 Everest 1953 Darjeeling
1953 Nawang Gombu 191 Everest 1953 Darjeeling H.M.I. Instr.
1956 Ila Tenzing 85 Kanchangjunga
1955 (British)
Khumbu
1956 Ang Norbu 172 Kanchangjunga 1955 Khumbu
1956 Tashi I 178 Kanchangjunga 1955 Nepal
1956 Ang Temba IV 179 Kanchangjunga 1955 Khumbu
1956 Urken 232 Kanchangjunga 1955 Khumbu
1956 Gyalzen Mingchen 163 Makalu 1955 (French) Killed 1962
1956 Gundin 167 Makalu 1955 Darjeeling
1956 Ang Phuta 186 Makalu 1955 Khumbu Died 1960
1956 Gyalzen Norbu 145 Makalu 1955 Killed 1961
1956 Ang Nima 132 Dhaulagiri (Swiss) Killed 1964 (Nanda Devi)
1962 Sardar Wangdi 342 Jannu 1959 (French) Darjeeling H.M.I. Instr.
1962 Pa Norbu (Panu) 161 Jannu 1959 Darjeeling
1962 Sonam Girmay 343 Everest 1960 (Indian) Namche
1962 Ang Norbu 344 Everest 1960 Khumbu
1962 Da Norbu 193 Everest 1960 Gangtok
1962 Pemba Sunda 182 Everest 1960 Kumjung
1962 Mingna Tsering 340 Hillary Scientific 1960/61 Kumjung
1962 Nima Dorje 345 Hillary Scientific Kumjung
1962 Pemba Tenzing 341 Hillary Scientific Kumjung
1964 Ang Tsering 203 Everest 1963 (American) Kumjung
1964 Cheotari 360 Everest 1963 Namche
1964 Girmin Dorje 229 Everest 1963 Kumjung
1964 Nawang Dorje 354 Everest 1963 Kumjung
1964 Ang Niyma 355 Everest 1963 Kumjung
1964 Phu Dorje 351 Everest 1963 Kumjung

 

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