EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. A Frontier Land and its People
2. Jungle Trail
3. The Himalayan Meltdown
4. HMI Instructors on Top of Kabru I
5. Climbing the Dream Mountain: Shivling
6. Parvati Col - the Google Way!
7. Pamir Tales
8. Arjuna - 1983
9. Saraghrar SE, First Ascent
10. The six great glaciers exploration in the Karakoram Epilogue
11. Ski Expedition to Lhagu Glacier

 

 

 

Arunachal Pradesh forms the northeast frontier of India with Tibet along its northern border and Myanmar to the southeast. Eighty percent of its 84,000 square kilometres area is covered by natural forests, only interrupted by numerous streams, and deep riverine gorges. The Brahmaputra forms the southern border of the state and its main tributaries, the Kameng, Subansiri, Siang, Lohit and Tirap, divide the state roughly into its main geographical and administrative regions. The population is mainly tribal. There are 21 main tribal groups and more than 100 ethnically distinct subgroups speaking more than fifty distinct languages and dialects. The people live in about 4000 scattered villages and 6 — 7 large towns with a population density of about 8/square kilometre. The main tribes inhabiting the various districts of the state are listed in table 1.

Table l. The administrative divisions of the state and the common
tribes inhabiting them.

 

The hilly terrain and river gorges have kept these tribal people isolated and this has in a way helped preserve their rich cultural heritage. The British controlled the North East Frontier agency (NEFA) for 200 years but in 1947 there were only 105 miles of road in the state. Generalisations are difficult to make but many commonalities exist among these people.

The state has managed to retain so much of its forest wealth only because majority of it is under the control of the tribal people who live in close harmony with nature. This is not unusual as the forest provides them everything —food, clothing, material to construct their dwellings, and wealth (from selling animal skins, musk pods and hornbill beaks). It is said that in the days of yore, the Adis would venture out of the forests only for three things: tea, tobacco and salt. Bamboo and cane vines are their most versatile assets. A slash of the knife and the bamboo stem is transformed into a container for water. A few more chops and a shelter is ready. The tribal man is in his true element in the forest.

It is thus not surprising that the most prized possession of the tribal person is his dah, a flat bladed long knife which is used for felling bamboo, cutting food, and also in settling disputes. A young man acquires his dah during the rites of passage ceremony held at the beginning of puberty. Then, it never leaves his side till death. A good dah costs anything from Rs 4000 upwards. The dah is usually carried in a scabbard which could be made of flat pieces of bamboo held together by intricately woven bamboo strands or more fancy scabbards fashioned out of monkey or bear skin. Vine is stripped into thin strands and woven to make hats and vests. The weaving is so tight that the hat is not only waterproof but also strong enough to last for ten years. Each tribe has a distinct head gear embellished with different types of feathers, and bones. A fern is used to weave water proof jackets that are worn by the Tagin hunters.

Meat comes from the various animals hunted in the forests. Almost any animal that can be hunted or trapped is eaten. In the northern and western districts dogs are spared whereas in the eastern districts bordering Nagaland, dog meat is a delicacy. Traps of various shapes and sizes are set up to catch birds, rodents, small mammals and even bigger ones like bears. Most are just fashioned out of bamboo, stones and string. Birds chirruping in trees are short-flight, being felled by deadly sling shots. It is not surprising to see four and five year old children practicing their shooting skills with their slings. The forests are thus quite, sans birdsong. Hunting is also a major past-time. The shotgun is the main weapon used and each area has its roster of reputed hunters.

The dense forests, steep slopes and heavy precipitation preclude major cultivation in most areas. Based on their method of livelihood, the people can be divided into three major groups:

a) Those practicing jhumming or slash and bum cultivation comprise the majority. Contrary to popular misconception, jhumming is carefully regulated and planned — there is no indiscriminate burning down of the forest.

b) Those practicing wet cultivation : the Apatani, Khamti and Singpho people mainly grow rice and millets by irrigated farming. In fact, the Apatanis are popularly referred to as the Japatanis as they are as progressive and innovative as the Japanese. The Apatani plateau around Ziro is intensely cultivated, year round with the farmland being irrigated by a system of stone channels and water tanks. These people also keep buffaloes and domesticate elephants. In most areas, consumption of milk is uncommon. Cattle are only used for meat and as capital asset.

c) Those practicing terrace cultivation : the Monpa, Sherdukpen Memba and Khamba people living in the western part of the state are the ones who practice this method of fanning. They also herd yak, sheep and ponies.

The dwellings are a delight in balance and ingenuity. Most of them cling perilously to hill sides. They are built on a frame of bamboo or logs. If the houses are on level ground then they are built on stilts to keep rodents and snakes away. Usually, the poultry and pigs live below the stilted flooring. The walls are made of bamboo matting and the roofs of palmyra or dried plantain leaves. The design of the wall matting and the composition of the roof vary from tribe to tribe. Now the government is subsidising corrugated galvanised iron sheets. Long houses are common in places where polygamy is practiced. Partitions separate many hearths — each for one wife and her children. In areas like the upper Siang valley, where terrace fanning is practiced unusual granaries are seen. They have flat round stone blocks placed above high stilts and below the floor frame. These are supposed to keep the rats away. A ladder is required to enter the granary.

Their society is patriarchal and polygamy is common. Inheritance follows the law of primogeniture. The people are highly democratic and each tribe has its own elected institutions which maintain law and order, decide disputes and prioritise welfare measures and development work. Elected village councils are responsible for these activities in most areas, but some tribes like the Nishi and Idi Mishmi look up to the village headmen for all these functions. The societies are casteless. Marriages are solemnised on a heavy bride price of Mithun stock and are usually for life. As a Tagin once wryly observed, 'We spent our entire youth slaving to accumulate a good bride price and by the time we do so we are too old and tired to enjoy maniage.'

Religion is an important fabric that binds the people together establishing societies. Forty percent of the people practice Donyi Polo a religion with the Sun and Moon being regarded as major forces. It is an animalistic religion in which worship consists of rituals to appease a number of malevolent minor deities. Dotting the skyline as you drive up the Siang valley are beautiful funerary monuments erected over the grave of the deceased. The monument mainly consists of a central bamboo pole which looks like a mast and has numerous cross beams festooned with mobiles in the fonn of flowers, birds, wheels or chains made of thin bamboo strips. Impaled on the centre of the mast is an eagle which is supposed to transport the departed spirit to the heavens. Also near the base are Himalayan giant squinels killed and stuffed with small bamboo baskets on their backs, canying food for the spirit.

Buddhism is practiced by 12.88% of the popUlation. The Monpas and Sherdukpens follow Mahayana Buddhism and the people in Lohit and Chang lang follow Theravada Buddhism which is very akin to that practiced in Sri Lanka and Thailand. The upper part of the Subansiri valley fonned an important part of the Buddhist pilgrimage tradition known as the Kora which was a circumambulation of a holy peak in Tibet called Takpa Siri. It was discontinued in the sixties after the Indo-China war. Since then the trail has disappeared in the robust undergrowth and Buddhism is on the wane. Gompas now have no lamas and daily prayer service has been discontinued. Christianity is making inroads in these areas. In some villages more than one type of church exists. One village in the Subansiri valley boasted of Methodist, Roman Catholic, Seventh Day Adventist and Protestant churches. The wave of evangelism has seen adherents of Christianity increasing from 1 % in 1981 to the present 10.29%. Most people however find it convenient to adopt Hinduism as they can continue to follow Donyi Polo practices also without any conflict of faith. Hindus account for 37% of the population.

It is interesting to consider what independence and statehood have meant to these people. In most places the people are intensely patriotic and feel proud to be Indians. There is great goodwill towards the anned forces because of the development activities they bring along and also the employment opportunities they offer.

The border areas development programmes have strangely not included road development. The Chinese, across the border have extended roads at a rapid pace right up to the intemational border. It is only this year that the Indian govemment has included laying of roads in the border areas as a developmental priority. Many of these development programmes have paradoxically stunted growth. Taksing, located at the head of the Subansiri valley has been air-maintained for more than half a century. Govemment sops have killed entrepreneuriship in these people. Black-marketing thrives. The people will rather curse the non-appearance of the helicopter than till the land or ferry supplies from roadhead. The only loads they willingly transport will be liquor. Alcoholism and its attendant violence is a bane of these societies.

Lack of educational and employment opportunities are factors which are going to change the demography of this region. Bishing is the last village in the Siang valley. It is situated on a small plateau overlooking the Siang where it tums south toward the plains of Assam. The village has a Hamelinesque¹ air to it. The only children seen in the village are toddlers and infants. In this predominantly Buddhist village, the children are sent away to educational institutions run by Buddhist trusts in Dhannsala or Mangalore. These children grow up and settle in the plains. Aged parents then follow them. This village will eventually end up being just a name on the map. Imaginative initiatives like adventure and ceo-tourism can help stem this efflux. But then, these villages are likely to lose their distinct identity and just become characterless tourist pit stops. The lucre of electoral politics is another detrimental facet of progress and its rot can be seen even in the far reaches of these valleys. Development if not channelised and directed is going to be disastrous and this comer of the Himalaya may just change and disappear forever.

SUMMARY

A study of people in Arunachal Pradesh based on visits by the author.

 

 

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The eastern region of Arunachal Pradesh is not on the horizon of tourists and trekkers for two main reasons, the lack of infrastructure and the long time consuming journey to the region. But once you cross the mental hurdle the region has plenty to offer. With the intention of finding nearly virgin forests and uncharted regions, a six member team from the Dept. of Atomic Energy at Mumbai under took an exploratory trek in the upper Dibang valley, in the month of September-October 2006.

The river Dibang is one of the main tributaries of Brahmaputra. Three rivers namely the Mathun, Dri and Talon join together in the upper reaches of the valley to form a river named Dibang. To the north of this valley is the Tibetan Plateau. The main tribe of this valley is Idu. They are supposed to have crossed over from Tibet to escape oppression. As with other tribes, the Idu tribals are expert hunters and through hunting expeditions have acquired detailed topological information of the land.

The team chose the lake region in the Upper Dibang valley for exploration. The lakes are located near a ridge, dividing the water shade of rivers Dri and Talon. The region could be reached either by a direct ascent from a village called Gipolin on the banks of river Dri or by following a jungle trail from the village of Ambolin. The direct ascent was already explored in 2004, and hence the team decided to follow the jungle trail.

The team left Mumbai on 23 September for Kolkata en route to Tinsukhia in the upper Assam. To reach the Dibang Valley one has to cross the mighty Brahmaputra river near Tinsukhia at Dhaula Ghat and reach the town of Roing in Arunachal Pradesh. The town of Roing is on the banks of river Deopani and is the gateway to the town of Anini in the Upper Dibang valley. The road from Roing to Anini has been constructed recently. The distance is only 192 km, but it takes about eight to ten hours to cover the distance as the road is winding and in poor condition. At 2365 m the Mayodia pass is the highest point on this road. The road goes via Railly, Hunli and Etalin. The journey offers a good view of the jungles along the river Dibang. The population is sparse and the traffic on this road is thin. One can observe the traditional small patches ofjhoom cultivation and then the bare mountain slopes as witness to the unchecked greedy timber logging. After purchasing the bulk of ration and repacking loads in Roing, the team reached Anini on 28 September.

Anini is located at the confluence of the river Mathun and Dri. It is the head quarter of upper Dibang valley district. It is a town at about 1520 m height, spread over small rolling hills. It has a small air strip and a helipad. From here a road lends to the military out post at Mipi in the Mathun valley and another to the other military post at Dembuen in the Dri valley.

The team engaged Jonti Mekho, a local youthful hunter and an entrepreneur, as the guide for the expedition. The local porters were arranged and on 29 September the team left Anini for Ambolin, the starting point of trek. Ambolin is 16 km from Anini, on the banks of Dri near Lisa nala. The trail is along the nala and is called Lisango. The gradient is steep, about 60 degrees. The trail goes through a mixed forest of bamboo, fern and some isolated oak trees. The team had started late and the sun sets early in the eastern parts, hence the team could not reach the intended camping ground. As such one does not find good camping sites in this jungle. One has to clear the under growth to make a space for a tent. C1 was located across the Lisa nala, in a thick bamboo forest at 1580 m.

From Camp 1 the team followed the Cobango trail. It consists of three sections Kawaya, Kawandi and Mendi Atoya. Only the Kawandi section of the trail is gentle at a gradient ofless than 60 degrees. At 1700 m, one emerges from the thick under growth of fern to a small clearing, which offers the first clear view of the neighbouring valley. The Dri looks like a blue and white ribbon deep in the valley. On the opposite side of valley one can see the winding road leading to the town of Anini and the scattered town itself. Even in late September the clouds were rolling up from the valley. The region has a heavy monsoon and the steep mountain sides quickly drain it down to valley in strong streams. As the trail follows a ridge water is scarce. There were sharp showers and the progress was slow. The team halted for a quick tea at 2210 m, just before the steep climb of Mendi Atoya. Forty litres of water was carried in cans, as the team was doubtful about reaching the next water hole by night fall. Camp 2 was established at 2710 m on a narrow ridge of Atoya.

1 October, fourth day of the trek was a clear day and we left the camp early, without any tea or breakfast as there was no water. After climbing to 2900 m we found a small pool of water with a dripping inlet called Ameica, and we all had a hearty breakfast. Our team was on the hunting grounds of the tribe and saw the first log hut which served as a shelter for hunting parties. It was stocked with dry wood, a fire place and a hanging platfonn over the fire place to dry wood and wet cloths. There was heavy rain and the traverse on the steep slopes covered with wet grass was a tricky. Camp 3 was established near a hunting hut at 3085 m with Lat Long of 28 44 80 Nand 95 59 21 E. Even though the GPS was old fashioned and drained the batteries in minutes, it helped us to visualise how circuitous the trail was, else it was not possible to keep a track of our progress as no clear landmarks could be seen because of the thick forest restricting the visibility to a few metres. There was no clear trail so the person in front had to hack out the trail. It was easy to get lost in this jungle. In fact after starting from Camp 3, four members lost the trail and they could regroup only after two hours or so. The team climbed to 3600 m to a place called Aheppu. It is a large meadow and offered a possibility of a clear view of the surrounding valleys, but the weather was foggy. The bamboo forest had given way to fir, maple and pine forest. There were small lakes draining towards the Talon. We descended along a ridge and after a long and difficult traverse entered a new valley. Camp 4 was established at 3300 m.

From Camp 4 the trail climbs up and then traverses taking a huge U turn. The traverse is on a steep side and at places quite exposed. On this section pug marks of bison, locally called Bhedu, were seen. There were some salt slick sites on the trail and the bison would have come for the salt. There was a small descent to a stream and log hut, where we had brunch. We seem to have missed the trail leading to Akanda ridge and so after a short discussion, decided to negotiate a small rock patch of 80 m, climb through a gully and gain the ridge trail, rather than retrace the route for half an hour. Gradually the trail gainedheight passing through pine and juniper forest. Camp 5 was established at 3560 m with Lat Long 28 46 78 Nand 96 01 42 E.

The camp site was beautiful and on the top ridge of Akanda. To the east was a sheer drop of 300 m. On the opposite side of the valley was a waterfall, plunging an overflow from the lake Arupra. While pitching tents in the setting sun and light drizzle, for a fraction of a second, we saw a circular rainbow almost at eye level in the valley. From this camp we could see the next day's trek route.

From Camp 5 on the Akanda ridge, the trail climbed to a small hump and then descended to a knife ridge. On one side there was straight fall of few hundred feet. The trail gradually climbed to 3670 m at the base of a rocky peak. The team negotiated a tricky descent of 50 m through an exposed gully and traversed for about 300 m to a boulder patch; climbing through the boulders the team reached a col. On the SE side of the col a small lake could be seen. The lake was one of the Hanrow lakes in this region. As its water was draining to river Talon, it was named Hanrow Talon. Through heavy rains the team reached the base of the Harondi pinacle and Camp 6 was established. The weather turned nasty; there was gusty wind and heavy showers. Everyone was soaked cold. The kitchen could not be operated and had to be shifted to a small cave on the far side. The bad weather continued the second day and the day was spent huddled in tents.

9 October turned out to be a sunny day. We checked stocks and dried out clothes. Ravi Wadaskar and Mikho climbed the Harondi pinnacle to get good pictures of the camp. From this camp one could have a rough idea of the region trekked and the route taken. The team left the camp at ten and then descended through a boulder patch to gain approach to SSE ridge leading to a col beyond which was lake Arupra. The dumbbell shaped lake is at a height of 3760 m with Lat Long of 28 4743 Nand 96 03 15 E. The crystal clear water reflects the blue sky. It is a fairly large lake of about 300 m in length and 150 m in width. It is fed by rain and snow falling on the surrounding not so high hills. It has a single outlet on the NW side. From here the team gained height to 3960 m on the NNE ridge and then traversed northwards through a rock band and then a meadow. From this ridge two interconnected Honrow Dri lakes could be seen. The Camp 7 site was on the shore of lower Honrow lake. To reach the camp site the team had to descend through a near vertical rock and boulder patch of about 100 m. These two lakes are relatively small. The surrounding region is rocky with some grass patches and juniper bushes.

With Camp 7 as a base, on 10 October the team climbed to upper Honrow lake. The trail crosses the discharge of the two connected lakes, climbs up to the base of a rock wall, and then traverses it avoiding the rock fall area. From the vantage point one gets a partial view of Angrim valley. A big cliff of about hundred metres is seen down below, over its face the discharge from the upper Honrow lake plunges down. The team climbed to a col at 3975 m, beyond which is the lake. It is a fairly large lake nested between the rocky peaks of Pote Rundi on SSE andTahu Rundi on ENE. Large chunks of ice from last year's snowfall were floating on the surface. The far side was covered with ice. The area is known for presence of Himalayan Thar and musk deer. Mishmi monals were seen on the rocky slopes.

On 11 October we began the return trek. Camp 7 was wound up in light snowfall. The team climbed to the ridge leading to Arupra lake and then turned to SE direction towards the twin peaks of Apen Dew. We reached a high point of 3815 m on the summit ridge of Apen. The camp site was on the north side of the peaks at 3615 m. Camp 8 was established on a small clearing near the edge of the forest in some birch trees. From here one could see the lights of Anini. On the north side was the peak Rupundi on the Tibet border. From Camp 8 there is a steep descent through thick woods. On an average the gradient is about 60 to 70 degrees. The trail crosses a sharp ridge connecting the main mountain range and the lower hills. From this point one can see on right hand side the Angrim valley and on the other the Anini side. The approach to the crossing of Apeya nala is very steep and the nala is crossed on a small ledge at 2840 m. After the second nala called Apeya Bra there is a long traverse. The trail passes through a bamboo forest. Camp 9 was located in thick forest after clearing the ground for tents, at 2490 m.

Camp 9 was crawling with insects, after the wet spell of weather. The descent to the roadhead near LG (Landing Ground) is very steep, at places the gradient is up to 80 degrees. LG an old air strip which is not in use, on the banks of river Dri. The last descent of about 400 m is through tall fern, as tall as 3 m. The forest on these slopes is cut for timber and the steep slopes now can only support some ferns. On 13 Oct the team returned to Anini on their way back to Mumbai.

During the trek the team visited four Honrow lakes and the Arupra lake. The beautiful jungle trail was enjoyed and the famed forest of Arunachal rich in biodiversity was seen in its full glory and in denuded state due to the mindless logging. The region offers an interesting trek and exploration possibilities. The local youths are supportive, dependable and have a good knowledge of the region. This is a region waiting to be discovered.

Members: Apte Ravindra, Chaudhary S. D., Maisari Mukesh, M. Ramanmurthy, Solapurkar Mahipat and Wadaskar Ravindra. Guide: Jonti Mekho

SUMMARY

A trek in the upper Dibang valley, Arunachal Pradesh. From 28
September to 13 October 2006.

See Note by the author in H.J. Vol. 61 p. 204

Team had reached Arupra lake by different route. In that article name of the lake was mentioned as 'Arupa', while now he feels it should be called' Arupra', it's correct name.

 

 

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A major global wanning issue that directly concerns more than one billion Indians is the fast receding Himalayan glaciers. This is threatening their agriculture and habitats. Snow cover varies from the Western to the Eastern Himalaya and detennines the hydrological regimes of the rivers. In the Western Himalaya, monsoon rainfall component is less as compared to snowmelt component. Therefore, deglaciation has a profound impact on the water resources of the Western Himalayan rivers. However, in the Central and Eastern Himalaya, melting of the seasonal snow cover peaks by the last week of June, whereas monsoon rains between July and mid-September sustain the flows in the rivers.

Hence, a time series of snow-cover extent in the Himalaya and discharge patterns are important components for evaluating the future of snow and glacier resources in the Himalaya. Data sets on snowfall distribution, river flows and climate parameters are not available as no monitoring system is in place for collecting such basic infonnation. Basic data on climate variables and stream and river flows are usually collected by the state or local authorities all over the world and made available to universities and researchers for analysis. Unfortunately, this culture was not established in India, because State and Central level organisations dealing with water, climate and environment are headed by the babus of the Indian Administrative Service, a class that is not aware of the importance of time series.

Glaciers in the Himalaya are fast retreating like other ice mountains the world over. A recent study showed that the last three decades of 20th century have been the hottest period in 1000 years. The melting of the Gangotri glacier is accelerating, with the glacier retreating at an average rate of 1 km annually. The Khumbu glacier from which Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay set out to climb Everest more than 50 years ago, has retreated 7 km due to global warming.

The direct effect of greenhouse gas emission and the resultant global wanning on glaciers is melting. Moreover, de-glaciation has far reaching implications on both our biological and ecological systems. Ice melts for different reasons, and its repercussions are also different, depending on regional and climatic variables. Floods, a rise in sea levels, scarcity of fresh water, threat to fauna and flora are major security implications of de-glaciation.

Any negative ecological effect on the Himalaya will have wider impacts on the lives of millions of people in South Asia. If the Himalayan glaciers that feed Asia's seven greatest rivers - Ganga, Indus, Brahmaputra, Salween, Mekong, Yangtze and Huang Ho - and ensure year-round water supply to two billion people, vanish because of melting, it will be catastrophic for the entire South and East Asia. It will create fresh water shortage, wipe out glacier feeding rivers and for a while will give rise to floods.

At present, rivers are showing a 3-4% surplus of water due to a 10% increase in the melting of the glaciers of the Western Himalaya, and a 30% increase in the Eastern Himalayan glaciers. But after 40 years, most of these glaciers will be wiped out and Asia will have water problems.

UK's Department of International Development (DFID) funded a project in 2002 in which I was one of the participants. The project was called Sagarmatha (Snow and Glacier Aspects of Water Resources Management in the Himalaya) to assess the impact of de-glaciation on the seasonal and long term water resources in snow-fed Himalayan rivers. The results were obtained keeping in mind four climate change scenarios. This infornmtion is vital for policymakers as the flows available in rivers are likely to change dramatically over the decades depending on the region.

The study which reveals some major facts about melting mountain majesties and warming glaciers are an eye-opener for us. In the upper Indus, the study sites show initial increases of 14% and 90% in mean flows over the next few decades which will be followed by a decrease in flows by 30% and 90% of baseline in the subsequent decades of a 100-year scenario.

As for the Ganges, the way the river responds near the glaciers in Uttarkashi is different from the way it does downstream in Allahabad. In Uttarkashi, flows peak between 20% and 33% of baseline within the first few decades and then recede to 50% of baseline after 50 years. Near the source of the Brahmaputra, there has been a general decrease in decadal mean flows for all temperature scenarios, as there are few glaciers in the area and flows recede as the permanent snow cover reduces with increasing temperature.

The catchments in the Eastern Himalaya, which benefit from high precipitation of the summer monsoon every year, are more vulnerable to impacts of de-glaciation than those in the west, where the monsoon is weaker.

In short, de-glaciation in the Himalaya is influenced by regional and global factors. However, the main underlying factor is ever increasing wanning on the mountains, chiefly because of excess emission of greenhouse gases and absorbing aerosols (dust and black carbon) which stack up against the southern slopes of the Himalaya, spur an upper-tropospheric heating anomaly over the Tibetan Plateau in late springs and early summers, leading to an advancement in the rainy season and subsequently an intensification of the Indian monsoon system. A combination of regional and global factors is causing liquid precipitation at higher elevations which normally used to receive solid precipitation during monsoons. The glaciers have negative mass as accumulation is less than the ablation.

The ongoing melting of ice is only the tip of the iceberg. The need of the hour is to sensitise the states sharing the Himalaya to initiate immediate measures to collect data in all glacierised valleys. Creating research institutes for glacier studies will not help policy planners and researchers without bringing state governments or local bodies in the loop for regularly collecting data on discharge and climate both at micro and macro levels.

IPCC's (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) fourth assessment report released recently holds human activities and greenhouses gases responsible for the changes taking place in climate. For example, greenhouse gas emission has increased by 67% in China and 88% in India since 1990. The critical question here is how climate modifications will jeopardise Indian economy's nine per cent growth rate. The sectors most vulnerable are food, water, energy, and health.

SUMMARY

Impact of global warming on the Himalayan glaciers.

 

 

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The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is a premier institute of mountaineering. This Institute was the brainchild of Pandit lawaharlal Nehru along with Dr BC Roy, the then Chief Minister of West Bengal. After the first ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953 by the late Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary, the excitement of mountaineering ignited youth all over the world including India. The need for an institute where mountaineering training can be given in an organised manner, was felt. On the initiative ofIndia's first Prime Minister, HMI was inaugurated 04 November 1954. Since then this Institute has trained more than 24,000 students in various disciplines of adventure activities. The endeavour has always been to take this institute to greater heights the world over.

To refresh training standards, sharpen climbing techniques and acquaint ourselves with modern equipment it is necessary to give instructors refresher training on higher altitude which includes climbing challenging peaks.

This time we selected the Kabru massif within our field training area. The reasons for selecting this peak were both personal as well as related to HMI. Personally I was very fascinated by Kabru massif when I first sighted it from Yoksum in December 1990 during my first visit as a trainee. The main peak of Kabru massif (North peak) is the highest peak in the HMI training area so it was necessary for the institute to do some climbing on this peak to give inspiration to its trainees.

The first recorded attempt in this area was believed to have been done by W.W Graham in 1883. His claim to have climbed Kabru in October 1883 has been the subject of much controversy after it was refuted by Sir Marhn Convoy (HJ Vol II p. 8). The ascent to the peak was recorded in 1935 by C.R. Cooke (HJ Vol VIII p.107). This ascent had not been repeated until 1994. An Indian Army expedition in 1994, under the leadership of Col Chauhan, recorded the first ascent of Kabru South, the first Indian ascent of Kabru south and unnamed peak of 7395 m which is North of Kabru. This unnamed peak created a controversy in 1973. The peak is not shown in survey of Indian map 78A but it was shown in the map of M.Marcel Kurz and also shown in the Swiss map with the height of 7388 m. Initially Himalayan Journal declared (HJ Vol IX p. 172,173,187 and 188) that the height of this peak is 300 feet less than North peak i.e. 23,803 feet (7257 m). However, later, it nowhere clarified the actual height of this peak except in an article by Maj (now Col) Ashok Abbey (HJ Vol 52 p. 29) the first ascent of this peak was declared and the name given was Kabru IV.

To start with, preparation was carried out and a team of six instructors under the leadership of Maj KS Dhami, SM, and Offg Principal of HMI set off on 11 April 2006 from Darjeeling to Yoksum. 75 km from Darjeeling in west Sikkim, Yoksum is a last road head for HMI base camp at 1780 m, basking in loneliness and silence. It is a historical place. In the 17th Century, Buddhism in Sikkim was first introduced here. Yuksum is a scenic spot with lakes amidst the back drop of the Himalaya. It was the first capital of the Chhogyal Dynasty of Sikkim.

On 12 April 2006 after packing loads on Yaks we started for the new adventure, and reached Bakhim, 11 km from Yoksum. The forest lodge where we stayed is surrounded by lush green forest. Here you can find beautif-ul alpine plants and Sikkim's famed orchids. Several Himalayan fauna are also found here; among them are rare varieties of birds and butterflies.

After spending the night in the lodge, we started for Dzongri, which is about 13 km. On the way to Dzongri we crossed Tsoka a beautiful small hamlet 3050 m which is a last human settlement in this area. From Tsoka the trek is a steep climb with gradient at some places ranging up to 600 to 700. The climb from Bakhim to Dzongri is challenging but every effort is worth for the imposing view one gets of the Kangchenjunga along with the colorful rhododendron flowers adding aromatic touches to the magical world of Dzongri. The whole tract is covered with logs and hence called the Log Trek. It has good resting points at Phedang and Deolali pass. 80th these resting places are good view points from where one can get immaculate view of the mountains like Kangchenjunga massif, Kabru massif, Pandim, Rathong etc. We reached Dzongri by noon.

After lunch we went up to the view point of Dzongri for an acclimatisation walk and had good views of Pandim, Tenzing Khang and Gocha Peak. The trek from Dzongri to Gocha la was clearly visible and the valley looked beautiful. Dzongri is a meadow at 4115 m with many huts scattered along the trek to Dzongri lao These huts are made by people from Tsoka who comes to this area for grazing their Yaks during spring season.

On 14 April we all started for the HMI base camp, through Dzongri la, a pass at 4510 m. After crossing this pass, the route gets into Chaurikhang valley and descends directly to Bigbari at 3960 m. From here the route is a gradual climb up to a point called Bada Pathar from where a steep climb of half an hour leads one to the HMI base camp.

The HMI base camp, 4450 m is surrounded by beautiful peaks all around. It was established in 1954 and since then it has been training ground for various student till date. The BC has huts for staff and students along with MI Room and has solar light facilities. A temporary helipad has been constructed for evacuation of casualty in case of need.

15 — 17 April was for sorting out climbing equipment and loads and load ferry to Camp 1. The latter was established at 5350 m near the knoll joining the ridge coming down from Kabru Dome in southwest direction on the top of Dudh Pokhari.

Dudh Pokhari a holy lake at 5000 m is fed by snow melt coming down from the Kabru Dome face. Local people from India and Nepal (after crossing Rathong pass, 5180 m) come to this place to offer puja. The lake is sacred for both Hindus and Buddhists. We also offered puja at this place for the success and well being of the team members. On the 17th evening the weather packed up and it started snowing heavily. It snowed all night and half a metre of snow was accumulated. Next day load ferry was carried out in bad weather.

On the 21st the team moved to camp 1 and weather remained calm. At noon we started opening the route to Camp 2. Various techniques, new imd old were practiced to open the route in the crevasse-prone area. The route to Camp 2 is covered by neve, full of crevasses underneath.

On the 22nd we continued route opening and load ferry. We covered the distance of 3½ km on the glacier which was full of crevasses and icefall. On the way at some places the gradient was 500 to 600. By 1300 hrs we were able to reach a flat area on Kabru Dome glacier at 5700 m which was considered as an ideal place for Camp 2. As soon as we reached the site, a huge avalanche came down from the Kabru Dome on to the west side just 400 m short of our camp site. After dumping the load we came back to Camp 1 by 1430 hrs. Next day the team shifted camp and reached the new location by 1230hrs with full loads.

On the 24th we began route opening through the icefall area on Kabru glacier. The area is quite vast and full of objective hazards of seracs, crevasses and avalanches. This stretch of around 3-4 km is most dangerous. The route was opened for about 1½ km after which the team returned back to Camp 2.

On the 25th the team continued on the rest of the route and after crossing all the obstacles it reached the tri junction saddle of the massif by 1330 hrs. The place was found to be suitable for Camp 3 / summit camp with an altitude of 6450 m. The whole route was fixed with rope and approximately 2500 m of rope was used. After this the team again returned back to Camp 2.

On the 26th, there was mild snowfall. Initially we thought that it was going to be a bad start. But we had decided to move further to the next camp. We started around 0700 hrs through the icefall while weather played hide and seek. We reached Camp 3 at 1400 hrs. The evening sky was overcast.

On 27 April at around 0520 hrs the sky was absolutely clear so we decided to attempt the peak the same day. We started for the summit at 0600 hrs. We had to make several detours as the route was covered with neve and there were few crevasses which were quite wide. Though the gradient was not much initially, it was a long and hard climb through knee deep snow. We hit the rock band at base of north peak at a height of 7200 m. From here the climb was very steep and gradient was about 700-900. At this point 300 m of rope was fixed right up to the summit. The team including Maj. KS Dhami, SM (leader) along with instructors, viz. Shri Lakpa N. Sherpa, Shri Ngodup Bhutia, Shri S R Thakur, Shri Suraj Gurung and Sanjay Bhowmik reached the summit (7338 m) at 1555 hrs. The young instructors were overjoyed at their personal triumph and as this has added another feather in the cap of their Institute. Puja was performed at the summit and blessings were asked from mountain Gods. The summit is a cornice ridge 30-40m long running from east to west and corniced towards south and almost flat with gradient of around 100 towards the north. The weather did not allow any view of the north side, but we could get glimpses of Kabru South ridge and Kabru Dome. After spending 15 minutes on the summit we reached the summit camp at around 1630 hrs. On the way down from summit, Instructor SR Thakur skied down from a height of 7112 m to sununit camp (6450 m).

After closing all camps, the team reached the base camp on 28 April and pulled back to Daljeeling on 1 May after successfully completing the training-cum-expedition on Kabru massif.

SUMMARY

An ascent of Kabru North (7338 m) by a team of instructors from
the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, DaIjeeiing. Summit was reached on 27 April 2006.

 

 

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9 June, 2007: Our adrenalin was rushing, heartbeats were pounding, a feeling of joy and achievement embraced us as Rahul Yelange, Tekeraj Adhikari, and Anand Mali with Sherpa Gyalbo and Pasang moved inch by inch towards the peak. As the time machine ticked, finally at 1.45 p.m. they were on the top of the world with feet firmly on Shiv ling (6543 m). We did it ! As chilly winds blew, standing atop Shiva's abode with a backdrop of snowcapped Himalayan ranges was a moment to cherish for a lifetime. h was the moment we had waited for for two years. On the 10 June 2007, our second team consisting of Anand Pathre, Rupesh Khopade, Avinash Kandekar, and Mahesh Kalbhor with Laxman Singh Sherpa, Chandrabahaddur and Raju Sahi made it to the summit.

Shivling, one of the world's most beautiful and famous peaks, the towering sentinel to the Gangotri glacier and holy source of the river Ganges, is visited by number of climbers from all over the world every year. The technical difficulties involved during the journey and the dangers of avalanches during the ascent, have given it the name 'The Dream Mountain'. It has been forbidden fruit for some of the best mountaineers of the world.

But we shared this dream, all of us including our other members, Yashdeep Malwade, Nilesh Aware, Sanjay Doiphode, Ajit Tate and Umesh Zirpe. Following the traditional route, we settled down at Tapovan base camp on 13 May. Our plan was to climb Shivling by the west ridge, also called as traditional SW face route with three camps above ABC. Over the next three days we all did load ferry to ABC. From Tapovan we climbed the moraine besides 'Baby Shivling', through a col we reached a ridge which runs parallel to the Meru glacier. At the end of this ridge after walking through mixed telTain of snow and rock for half an hour we decided to establish ABC. We dumped our load and retumed back to Tapovan. We could complete this load ferry comfortably in 4.5 hours.

26 May was rest day but it snowed all the day. We decided to divide the team into two groups, A and B, each supporting each other. That night it snowed heavily (around 2 ft). We spent all night keeping our tents up by shovelling away snow. Because of the heavy snowfall HAPs were reluctant to shift to ABC so team A shifted to ABC anyway. It was a hot and humid day after the previous night's snowfall. The shift was uncomfortable but at last team A reached ABC at 2.00 p.m. When they reached ABC it started snowing so in that condition they pitched three tents.

On 28 May, team A opened the route till Camp 1 which was six humps above ABC and then we had to cross the avalanche area for around 20 minutes. The route then went along a steep slope on the west ridge of Shivling. Camp 1 was situated on the saddle ridge which was connected to the rocky peaks below Camp 2. It took around 2.5 hours to reach Camp 1.

After doing load ferries for two days team A shifted to Camp 1 while team B supported. After Camp 1 there was a steep slope of snow towards the rock pinnacle. At the base of the rock pinnacle, the route crosses to the right side of the pinnacle. After a traverse of half an hour across the rock pinnacle there was a gully filled with snow. Team A fixed rope here. Rock piton and snow stakes were used for anchoring purposes. Top anchor was made to a big boulder. A short traverse followed by technical patch of 8 m took us to the top of the gully. One has to wear crampons in this portion because of mixed structure of climbing (rock and ice). After the gully there was a traverse on the ridge face for 30 minutes. This took us to the base of the Camp 2 which was 150 m higher on the ridge. It was a fixed rope on which we had to negotiate the 80 degree slope to reach to the top of the ridge. Camp 2 was situated between two rock pinnacles on the ridge. Team A took two days to open the route. After that they did load ferry between camps and each shifted one camp higher.

This portion of the climb was on top of the west ridge. Between Camps 2 and 3 we fixed around 520 m of polypropylene rope. For anchoring ice pitons, rock pitons choke nut, snow stakes were used. This portion was a difficult technical climb on the ridge with gradient varying from 60° to 90° Along the route, there was one bookshelf and two chimney portions. There was hard ice inside the chimney and climbing inside it was a real tough job. 30 m below the Camp 3 there was another tough rock patch with gradient more than 800. At this point there was a drop of 1500 m. Any object dislodged from this point would have hit ABC. No need to say what would happen thereafter. After this patch a short slope of ice would take us to a small plateau.

We established summit camp on this plateau. On the three sides of Camp 3 was a sheer drop to Meru glacier and on one side a ridge heads towards the very famous Shivling ice wall. On 6 June team A established Camp 3. After the summit camp, climbing the ice wall was the toughest. It was a 90 m wall slightly overhanging (at 100°). Taking on this portion at 6000 m was extremely difficult. Gyalbo's contribution in opening the wall was major. Three days of tiring and exhaustive efforts opened the wall for us. The ridge above the Camp 3 took us to the base of the ice wall. At the lower portion of the ice wall the route was through zigzag structure of hard ice. Midway, the wall became straight 90 degrees with a slight overhang at the top. There was a huge crevasse in the ice wall. Keeping the crevasse on the right side our route went up to the top of the wall. High quality ice pitons and imported dynamic rope were used to fix the route in this portion.

Above the ice wall the structure of the mountain has changed dramatically during last year. Huge crevasses have opened on our way to the col between the twin peaks. Hence we decide to directly hit the suinmit instead of going to the col and attempting summit through the ridge. From the ice wall to summit was a ramp of ice of 70 degree gradient. Finally we reached the summit completely exhausted. The journey demanded excessive physical hardship and mental strength.

After the summit all members returned safely to base camp within two days. During this journey the team ensured that the mountain was cleared of all litter and garbage.

SUMMARY

Ascent of Shivling (6543 m), on 9 and 10 June 2007 by the Indian team from Giripremi, Pune,

Members: Rahul Yelange (leader), Avinash Kandekar (deputy leader), Anand Mali, Tekraj Adhikari, Anand Pathre, Rupesh Khopade, Mahesh Kalbhor, Nilesh Aware, Yashdeep Malwade, Ajit Tate, Sanjay Doiphode and Umesh Zirpe.

Supported by :Gyalbo Sherpa, Laxman, Pasang Sherpa, and Raju Sahi

 

 

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The popular myth in Badrinath is that in ancient times, the same priest would offer puja in both temples that is, Badrinath and Kedarnath. Lord Shiva decided to put a stop to this travel. He took the form of mountain Nilkanth and placed himself between the two temples. The priest continued to perform his pujas, crossing over a pass on the mountain. It is difficult to justify the myth nevertheless the quest for the legendary route between Badrinath and Kedarnath continued to intrigue mountaineers since a long time.

To explore this very route, a five-member team (Debabrata Mukherjee, Biman Biswas, Sankar Mandai, Smt. Usha Pandit) of 'Amtala Annesan' led by Tapan Pandit left Joshimath on 01 June, 2007 along with eight pOliers, reaching Khirao bridge .. This is near Lambagar and 1 ½ km short of Binakuni, a Bhotia settlement. We crossed a bridge over Alakananda and trekked along the right bank of the confluence towards a beautiful camp near the Bhotia settlement (2440 m). It was not exactly a village but had a few shepherd huts. Downwards the Bhotia village Binakuni, left behind by the path to Badrinath, was still in view.

On 02 June, a dazzling morning, we ascended along the right ridge of Khirao. It was a shady walk through walnut, deodars and cattle. Khirao nala is in the right gorge. Within an hour we crossed a nala coming down from the south by a wooden bridge and reached a new concrete bridge over Khirao nala. Barley fields on the other side welcomed us. Now we proceeded along the north ridge on the left side of Khirao nala. In a while we reached the little village Khirao in the midst of potato fields. Khirao village is the summer settlement of Lambagar. We camped ahead in the Bhagavati temple guest house (2800 m).

On 03 June, 2007 after crossing a ridge, we were, in the Tulsi jungle. Ahead was a beautiful path and moraine along a pasture. We then walked up to the Transit Camp along the same ridge at 3540 m. Next day, we ascended along the same ridge. The icefall of Nilkanth came into view. We proceeded over Khirao moraine to reach the base camp region of Nilkanth in three hours. In the north, Nilkanth and Parvati peeped over the pinnacle of the ridge. To the west, was a peak of the Panpatia group We halted here at 3800 m. On the 05 June, Debuda, Biman and two porters went out for a recce and load ferry to advance base camp.

On 06 June, 2007 we split into two teams. Debuda and Biman climbed the ice covered left hand ridge. The rest of us ascended the Khirao moraine and took the boulder strewn track to avoid the ice. Within two and half hours, both teams met at an ice covered medial moraine with several humps. On the left, the first icefall was hidden by the black Parvati ridge. But Pk. 5922 m. of the second icefall region was seen. After an hour, walking over the debris of medial moraine, we crossed a glacial stream and reached the bank of a small glacial pool. The heavily crevassed main icefall which looked like skyscrapers was on our left. The Chaukhamba group, stood on the right, massive against the skyline. Here we camped for the day. This was our ice camp 1 (4320 m).

Panpatia icefall was in front and this was the toughest obstacle of the legendary route. It made me nostalgic. In 1912 C. F. Meade discovered a col situated at the 6096 m between Chaukhamba I and II on the western top of the Satopanth glacier. In 1934, two eminent mountaineers, Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman with three Sherpas set out for the Satopanth glacier. They did not follow Meade's route but traversed Satopanth glacier and forced a passage across the SE ridge of Chaukhamba III to a Col (5608 m) at its head. After crossing several icefalls they descended to the Gandharpongi valley. They lost their way in the deep bamboo grove and wandered about for over a week. Their food was exhausted so they were forced to chew on bamboo twigs like bears. This col is named after Shipton. According to Shipton this was not the priest's route. 50 years later, in 1984, two young explorers of the Himalayan Club Ranjit Lahiri and Arun Ghosh followed the Shipton - Tillman route in reverse. After Madhyamaheshwar they stayed one night on Kachni khal. They crossed Gandharpongi valley towards their goal with a Nepali porter from Josimath. Mysteriously the porter returned but Ranjit and Arun did not.

Martin Moran followed the Shipton - Tillman route in 1998. He traversed the Satopanth glacier and finally moved through the southern ridge of the Shipton col and touching the icefield of Panpatia, reached the south ridge of Shipton peak. One of his companions was John Shipton, Eric Shipton's son. This time they were able to reach Kedarnath through the risky and dangerous Gandharpongi route. The difficulties of the route made them wonder whether this was route of the priest?

The Panpatia glacier is the source of Khirao nala. Here we began the search for a new pass to make a link between Mandakini and Alakananda valleys. In 1985, Prabhat Ganguly taking the route from Madhyamaheshwar marked a depression on the SW ridge of the said glacier as 'Panpatia Khal'. In 1997, Harish Kapadia of Mumbai proceeded from Badrinath tlll"ough the Khirao nala. But he had to restrict his journey due to dangers of the main icefall. From 1997 - 2000 Aninda Mukheljee's efforts are remarkable, for he reached the high point of upper Panpatia icefield from the Madhyamaheshwar side. From the opposite side he was able to reach the base of main icefall as seen by Harish Kapadia. But the uncertainty of the sihlation prevented him from completing the legendary route.

In 2000, Martin Moran climbed Nilkanth. He sent a 12-member team under the leadership of Harold Edwards and Chris Dale who descended the Panpatia glacier and climbing the main dangerous icefall and finally reached Madhyamaheshwar. According to Martin Moran's e-mail 'The main problem of the route is in surmounting the Panpatia icefall ... it can involve some steep sections of ice climbing and may be dangerous in places. Full mountaineering kit, ropes and some ice screws will be needed. With the continuing retreat of glaciers the route is likely to become more difficult.' They were of the opinion that it was quite unreal that the priest took this route. Thus many Indian and foreign explorers have tried to find out the shortest possible route between these two holy shrines but in vain. Just when we thought that finding this legendary trail would remain impossible for us technology came to our rescue. We saw a gully on Google Earth website, which was clearly seen and offered a route! This finally led us to the Badrinath-Kedarnath legendary route.

On 07 June, 2007 we were off at 9 a.m. The first one and half hour was a trudge over snow covered median moraine. It led us to the confluence of the main and second icefall. The second icefall and Pk. 5922 m were clearly visible on left. The main icefall has an upper plateau, which is more dangerous and a lower part, with an icefield in between. On the right towards north is a gully which originates from the confluence of the main and second icefall. The gully leads towards Parvati peak (6275 m). This is the entrance to the legendary route of upper Panpatia plateau. Called 'Parvati gully', it is approx 3 ½ km in length and terminates at a col. Till now it was hidden behind a black rock. We were excited and finally recceed the gully. We descended to the confluence of the COlTect gully in the north, with second icefall in the south and main icefall on the west. The right side gully was a dangerous glacier and on its left or SW there was Pk. 5300 m. To the southwest lay the most dangerous main icefall. Northwest of the gully was a 5650 m peak. Between Pks 5300 m and 5650 m a col was visible. Chaukhamba was seen at the head of the main icefall. and an overhanging glacier was visible left of Pk 5300 m. The gully climbed northwards, to an ice saddle between Pks 5300 m and 5650 m. This would be our entrance to the upper Panpatia icefield. The Parvati peak was on the NW. We named it as 'Parvati gully', which would be the key entrance to upper Panpatia icefield. Google Earth and its 3d model deserve credit for this achievement. But team member Debuda used his experience to analyse the pale gully which as seen on Google, it appeared smooth, but perilous and avalanche-prone.

A snow free lateral moraine starts from the lower icefall. It moves northwards through the gully and terminates at a rock band with an icefall on right (NE) side. Then a left turn leads to upper Panpatia snowfield. We moved towards the heavily crevassed lower parts of the main icefall. We walked in the middle of the median moraine to avoid the frequent slides and avalanches from Pk 5922 m. Within half an hour we reached the lower icefall. The lower icefall was blue hard ice with few snow covered crevasses leading to the base of Parvati gully. It took 1 ½ hour over rocky lateral moraine ofParvati gully to reach a flat icefield in the middle of the said gully. This was Camp 2 (4610 m).

On 08 June, Debuda, Biman and four porters went to open the route, fix ropes and ferry loads. 600 m of rope were fixed beyond the black rock on NW.

The next day was cloudy. After an hour's traverse over the last part of the lateral moraine we reached the base of a rocky pOliion. A gentle gradient rock face turned NW with few ice patches finally led us to a high point. Another oval icefield and left ridge sent us to the foot of an ice saddle. Parvati was on NE with Nilkanth behind it. We established Camp 3 and named it Parvati camp (5060 m). On 10 June with Pk 5922 m and the second icefall lit golden, we resumed our march at 9 a.m. Over the snow slope on the west we reached an ice saddle or col at 10.30 a.m. Facing us on the west was a vast ice plateau of upper Panpatia glacier with Chaukbamba and Shipton peak (5758 m) in the NW. The upper pOliion of the main icefall and Panpatia khal (5237 m) with Madhyamaheshwar valley in the SW. Panpatia upper icefield is separated from Satopanth glacier by a rocky ridge. On our east, we saw Parvati, Nilkanth, Nanda Devi. We christened this unnamed col, 'Parvati Col' (30042/20.2/N, 79020/02.9/E, 5246 m). We established Camp 4 little below (5189 m) near an ice funnel.

The next morning at 6.30 a.m., we roped up and proceeded SW towards Shipton peak. We moved west of the ice plateau and descended a little. We saw a light radiating from the crevasse below a black stone. On our left, the main icefaLl fell suddenly on to the lower icefield. There were crevasses all around but we could not proceed so we retraced our steps to the black stone. Descending again, we found the Gandharpongi valley in our view. We continued our descent along the left side to the middle of Panpatia icefield. Behind us was the main icefall, Chaukhamba and Pk. 5922 m on left. A one and half hour march took us to the col.

Now we began to climb down. The glacier was about 400 m below us. Wading through loose ice, we descended to the crevasse covered glacier. We proceeded west along the right side of lateral moraine. An hour later we were at a glacial pool which had no name. Here we set up camp.

On 12 June in cloudy weather we started and ascended along the left towards a lake. We ascended a gully and then descended for three hours through an ice covered ridge reaching Maindagalla tal and finally Kachni camping ground. (4220 m).

Thus the discovery and exploration of the 'easiest' legendary route connecting Badrinath to Kedamath was completed when we reached Madhyamaheshwar temple on 13 June 2007. Our inquisitive mountain lover team was ably assisted by the modem technology in the fonn of Google Earth. We now acknowledge that there was some truth behind the religious myths of the high Himalaya.

SUMMARY

Crossing of the watershed between Panpatia and Gandharpongi en route to follow the legendary route.

 

 

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I have travelled across the Karakoram mountains over ten times, from the northwest of India's territories, close to the border with Pakistan, up to the Hindu Raj and Hindu Kush valleys in the North West frontier. I have also explored the remote Sinkiang glaciers. During these times I dreamed about a small part of land in the true heart of Central Asia... an almost magical place surrounded by tales and myths - 'The Wakhan Corridor'. The Oxu's sources, the mountains where Alexander was beaten, Marco Polo's steps, the Great Game ... all these tales and legends were written on the Wakhan's pages.

Nowadays this is an isolated and forgotten land in the northeast of Afghanistan. It is the most remote region in one of the most complex countries of the world.

There never seems to be a good time to travel to Afghanistan, which has been condemned to suffer years of war and disasters. News from this country and its people is always sad and tragic. After the Taliban's fall, people started to feel some hope for the future, and we thought that this maybe the best time for us to undertake the journey.

When we began to talk about oW' project with friends, we realised that several were interested. Soon we were a group, but probably too large. Personally I don't like to move in a large group, travelling in a big bus, with hundreds of porters, cooks and helpers .... especially in a place like Afghanistan. I am extremely uncomfortable to be part of a large 'expedition', and with the experiences of the past years I shudder at the idea and try to travel in a discreet manner. This time television news came to our rescue. The political situation as reported finally reduced our group to the minimum. And so it came to be that some weeks before our departure to Kabul, just my friend David and me were buying air tickets. We were quite a small group, but really better than a football team!

Some job troubles forced us to travel separately. I went to Kabul alone, and waited two days in this city for my friend. Being by myself for the first contact with this country was an exciting experience.

During the following month, we travelled from Kabul to the Wakhan mountains by road. We used local transport, slept in popular rest houses, shared our bed and meals with friendly Afghans and really enjoyed their unique hospitality.

In these remote provinces it is still necessary to get written authorisation by local warlords and commanders. These are more important that any government permission.

We wanted to walk by the remote Afghan Pamir. To know this special range as best as possible we would try to reach one of the last highest unci imbed summits in this land.

The Afghan Pamir ranges stand at the border with Pakistan, China and Tazakhistan. Over a narrow corridor, flanked by the Pamir and Wakhan rivers, is the historic Oxus. The north side of the mountains are known as 'Big Pamir', and the southern flanks, 'Little Pamir'. The highest point is the Koh-e- Pamir (6320 m), and there are about a dozen peaks of over six thousand metres. After the Russian invasion, climbing, exploration and trekking in this area was drastically reduced. During the last year, a few foreign trekking groups have begun visiting Wakhan Pamir again.

We arrive at Qala-e Panja on 3 August. From this point we will start to walk, with two donkeys and a guide. The plan is to trek by the north side of the range, the 'Great Pamir', watching those flanks and trying to reach one of the last unci imbed summits. We will use the summer shepherds paths, crossing the Great Pamir by a high pass, as close as possible to the glaciers.

In this place there aren't any adventure agencies or resorts. The unique feature is that the wakhis and kirgis rules, and we must accept this. Every night we sleep and eat enjoying the friendly hospitality of the wakhis and kirgis. There is always a yurt for us, with tea and meals. When we try to give them some food or anything to help them, they always refuse. The rules of true hospitality and how to treat travellers are very clear here. Everyday we change animals and muleteers. When we anive in a new settlement of yurts we say bye to om guide and take a new one from the new place. We use donkeys, yaks and horses at different stages. We do not have a translator, so our inseparable companion is a small dictionary in 'farsi-dari'.

After eight days of walking by the northern Pamir, we reach a nice place to set-up our small tent and try a climb. From this point we can reach the Ali Su Glacier and explore the surrounding peaks. We see a snow covered ridge connecting three nice summits over 6000 m. The middle top is called Koh-e Seh Asp-e Safed (three white horses) in the map. We decide to camp the bottom and look for a way to reach any of these sununits.

Our high camp is on a 'nunatak', in the centre of Ali Su west glacier, we feel like we are on an island in the middle of a wonderful white ocean. It has been snowing every afternoon in the last few days, and now, sheltered in our tent we look at the sky, quite worried.

From the bottom, we see a net of snow corridors going up until the upper ridge. We are almost sure that by any of these routes we can connect with the summit.

In the early hours of the morning, when it is still dark, we are ready to start the climb. Walking over frozen snow, we reach the bottom of the corridors. We cover altitude rapidly, going over the slopes with the help of ice axes and crampons. The weather is perfect and with each passing moment the view over the Afghan Pamir gets better and is simply incredible. We feel really good, enjoying our climb in this remote part of the world. Finally we reach the upper section and now the walk is easier but the snow deeper. We need to meet the summit, because we aren't too sure which is the highest point.

Over the icy sharp ridge, we look for this point. Climbing a steep pitch, close to a serac, and after a traverse over ice, we think that this must be the summit, but to be sure, we go up to the point where the ridge goes down. Now there is no doubt. We are on the first summit of the group. After it, the ridge descends, climbs to the middle summit Koh-e Seh Asp-e Safed and finally connects with the third top.

The place where we are now is the top of the first peak. It is yet unnamed and until now unclimbed. The altitude is just over 6000 m. From here, we see a unique landscape, nearby are the highest Afghan Pamir summits, and around are the wild Hindu Kush, China, Tazakhistan .... marvellous. We decide to name this peak Koh-e Maghrebi (West peak) because on the map the summit has no name and in this case, we think the name is appropriate.

We use a rope on our descent as it is quite precarious because the ice is soft and the slopes are steep enough to be dangerous. We walk five days to get back to Qala-e Panja, from where we drive to Kabul and here our adventure finally ends.

Kabul of course is full of problems. An American team from a private army plays with guns and mixes shooting with alcohol, a really horrible combination.

Through our whole trip, the relationship with the Afghan people was perfect; the wann hospitality in their villages was truly unique, not found anywhere else in the world. I'm really sad about the recent developments in Afghanistan and only wish that they finally find peace.

SUMMARY

 

 

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In summer of 1983 Polish Alpine Club organised an expedition to Arjuna (6230 m) in Kashmir (India). The aim of our expedition was the summit called Arjuna (6230 m) previously attempted by two Polish expeditions. The main summits. however, had not been climbed. During one of those expeditions two colleagues of ours, Janek Oficjalski and Jacek Szczepanski were lost. Until now, their bodies have never been found.

The face of Arjuna tumed out to be quite massive. It is composed of three pillars culminating in three separate summits: the main, the central and the southem.

Here is an account ofa successful attempt on one of them:

I was hanging attached to the rock somewhere between the sky and the earth. The effect of painkillers started to wear off and the pulsating pain in my mangled hands was coming back. The warmth of my sleeping bag had dried the skin and made it shrink. which in tum caused numerous scratches and minor injuries opened again. A philosopher's thought haunted me: 'Miserable, you've got what you wanted'. In the trance in between one dose of painkillers and another, unclear visions of the past blended with memories of the recent events which had brought us here.

After the expedition reached Kishtwar on 20 July, mules were hired and all moved forward. Three days later we crossed Chenab river near the village Lai. From here we set forth with 24 porters each carrying 20 to 25 kg. We were supposed to traverse Kachar nala valley, then descend about 800 m, and again climb and traverse Srinalai nala valley along with climbing another edge which was 3600 m high, and from there, traverse down to Kijai nala - our destination. The whole approach led through terrain totally deprived of any trails. In many places they were extremely exposed and dangerous. On our way, we came across fields of wild Cannabis. The porters knew well what to do with it. We were surprised by the way they moved easily in the wild terrain and were able to find food in the forest. The only necessities they carried, were tiny bags with flour to make "chapatti" and some handfuls of rice. The majority walked barefooted. Those who were better-off, had shoes woven from phloem, but for economy, wore them rarely - only in the most difficult places.

I glanced at my watch. To my horror I realised that it was barely 11 pm. How many hours of torture to bear until dawn? To make the whole thing worse, I felt forced to leave the warmth of my shelter. Coming back meant another struggle with all the clothes and equipment and the terrible pain in my hands returned with full force. As a result of my sudden movements the masts of my 'nest' got broken and the whole prototypical construction went into pieces. No sooner than half an hour did I finally get inside. Panting madly, I slowly calmed down only to fall into oblivion again ...

On 28 July, after three days of wading through wild nature we reached a place situated at 3400 m - at a nice patch of birch trees, half an hour away from the tip of the Kijai glacier. The flat clearing, ended with trees on one side and vertical rock on the other, and was ideal for setting up the base camp. When everything was ready, now completely alone, we happily resumed the transport of our equipment towards the face of Arjuna. We were disturbed by echoes of constant rock cannonade. It turned out to be a series of massive rock avalanches, furiously going down the 1500 m slope hanging above the valley, which was in the process of permanent destruction. Every few seconds, somewhere from the rocky ridge, huge blocks of granite were rolling down. Most of them cut across the glacier only to ragingly hit the opposite steep wall. Unfortunately, our way up was bound to cross that calamitous place. We called the place Mick Jagger's Gulley. This apparently 'Special Zone' was a couple of hundred metres long and there was no chance to go through it without having something falling down. It was covered with chaotic rubble where bigger rocks could make emergency shelter. At first we ran through the place, but then some of us decided it would be safer to jump to well-chosen positions, others prefelTed to walk cautiously, scalming the gully above carefully. Generally, this sort of attraction was in abundance. Barely ten minutes away from the place was a bear's path. We could see its numerous footprints left on muddy fields near the beginning of the glacier. After a while, the bear's and the human traces entangled. Luckily, the bear wasn't willing to .. meet us eye to eye.

A distant lightning tore the darkness and a moment later deep rumble of thunderstorm was heard. I rapidly stuck my head outside and began to watch the night sky very closely. Something evil was happening far away on the horizon. In the western sky, where the horizon was melting with the distant mountains, glows and glimmers in various shades from pale blue through red and purple appeared. Bundles of clouds rose upwards and mushroomed in huge volcano- like eruption. 'That must be hell or going down to Mordor', I thought and quickly hid my head under the cover, trying not to hear or see anything ...

On the way towards the face of Aljuna we set up Camp 1 on the glacier. After a few days of unfavourable weather which gave us some rest in the base camp, we set off upwards again. On 8 August late afternoon, Mirek, Jurek, Przemek and Tomek, heavily loaded with all the necessary supplies, began their way up to Camp 1, and the rest of the expedition followed up next morning. To our astonishment and horror we discovered that the place on the glacier where yesterday's fixed ropes began, now turned into a huge hole and the traces of our friends had altogether disappeared on it's edge. In the mouth of the hole a telTible welter roared madly. For the next thirty minutes we meandered our way up in tense silence until we reached a flattening and more snow fields, only to notice a row of fresh footprints heading up. It meant the guys managed to pass this horror safely, and the hole must have just formed overnight.

Smoothly, we reached the middle camp and next morning set off for Camp 2 situated under the pillar of the Aljuna main summit. In the meantime, Mirek and Jurek had fixed the ropes for the first 120 m of the spur.

Two hours passed. I changed the position of my body. Unfortunately, after a while the thumping of my heart made me change the position again. These were the effects of altitude and the strenuous day. The thunders and lightnings over 'Mordor' disappeared. There was complete silence around with thousands of stars littering the sky. The mountaineering adventure was coming true severely and scrpulously. I felt I was lost in it, without any chance of retreat, at the mercy of fortune, hanging alone, in some terrible mountains at one instant delightfully friendly, and in the other hostile and full of traps ... A dose of drugs and a short nap helped me plunge into sweet oblivion .. .

On 13 August (I'm not superstitious), I hauled up on the ropes some of the equipment so the foIlowing day, together with Jurek and Mirek, we could instaIl ourselves on the waIl for longer. Doing the 'monkey job' turned out to be quite difficult, as, during the night, after a quite wann day, the ropes in the chimney got covered with ice. The rest of the day was spent on strenuous climbing (VI, A2) in ice-covered chimneys ferrying up our stuff. Towards the evening, one third of our way up we stopped at the top of a huge tower attached closely to the pillar. There was a suitable little pass between two rocks. Together with Jurek we hanged up our 'bat nests' and after treating ourselves with multiple cups of tea, we went to sleep. Mirek choose the other more quiet side of the pass, soon freezing darkness came upon us.

A sudden commotion on the other side of the little pass reminded me that I wasn't alone. At the same time I remembered an event that occurred a couple of days before, when we were in the base camp: the evening was fine and it was going to be a warm night under the starlit sky. Tomek chose to sleep outside. He assumed his position in his sleeping bag, on a little mattress between our tents. It must have been after midnight and we were sound asleep when suddenly, just behind the waIl of my tent, something terrifying happened. The silence was tom apart by terrible screams and shrieks of a petrified human being. This was accompanied by sounds of freak commotion foIlowed by quick steps and stumbles. I was mummified with terror not knowing if it was real or just a dream. It went on for awhile until from the neighbouring tent I heard Przemek's voice: 'Tomek, Tomek, come inside ... not here ... there .... there ....

Tomek must have followed the voice because suddenly there was deadly silence again which lasted until dawn. Nobody asked questions, though, pretending to have been asleep. As it turned out later, we had been so upset that not until two days later did we begin to talk about that event. The commotion was caused by some snake or lizard which came into Tomek's sleeping bag and found it's shelter in the wannth of his private parts. Yet other, far more terrifying scenarios crossed our minds - from an attack of madness to a hold-up by the local robbers.

At dawn, when the weather wallned up, I fell soundly asleep again. The furious alalln of my watch woke me up. It was a bright day and definitely time for me to get up. However, the inertness in Jurek's tent made me decide to take a short nap. After a while, Mirek peeped out from behind the crag and called us to order. On that day we had to pass the most difficult part of the smooth pillar which towered above our heads. Conquering it was the key to our success. We decided to approach it lightly, fixing ropes for the more difficult fragments. Mirek and I set forth, whereas Jurek was supposed to stay on the little pass and regain his strengths.

After traversing a small snow field Mirek swapped his winter boots for light summer shoes, got equipped and set forth. To our surprise, that wasn't as difficult as we had expected. Excellent micro-sculpture of the rock offered V+, VI grade of difficulties on good pro. The last two pitches led through nearly vertical smooth slabs. Mirek unwillingly handed over the leadership to me. I advanced slowly, overcoming deep pain caused by the' crusts' of dry skin on my legs, sporadically placing the pro. After two pitches of such terrain the climbing became easier. Unfortunately, we had run out of ropes and were forced to rap down to "bivi pass". Soon it came to us, the work of the day was definitely opening the way to the summit, so we could look forward to the future.

The following day was again devoted to hauling the gear. After we had reached the edge of the pillar, the terrain laid down and the level of difficulty for most of the pitches went down to II-III. In that situation we couldn't pull the bags, but we had to carry them on our backs. In the evening we reached headwall. On the left side of the pillar, which again became vertical, there was a small snow platform. We comfortably set up the tent, spending the rest of the evening cooking our numerous cups of tea, saturating well our dehydrated bodies. A beautiful, magnificent ice-rocky massif of Brahma II towered on opposite side of Kijai nala. Far, below us on the glacier, Bogumil and Doctor's red tent reminded us of coming home soon. From the tent they watched our efforts closely. We had no radio and did not know what was happening on the neighbouring pillar of Southern Arauna, where Przemek and Tomek were climbing. The only communication with Camp 2 was the prearranged combination of flashing lights, sleeping bags placed on the glacier etc .., not enough to get complex data.

The following morning greeted us with blue skies - the most uplifting sight. We set forth eagerly, however the mountain became very defensive. In the course of the day Mirek managed to lead several difficult pitches, up to VI, 1+ and finally reached snow colouir, where we climbed for some time until the headwall stopped us. Towards the end of the day, my two exhausted friends pushed me ahead to take over the leadership. I took it without enthusiasm, heavy backpack wanted me to stay in one place, I knew I had to mobilise my reserves. My partners didn't look well. When I regained my breath I silently took the gear and started moving into the rocky barrier. The cleft in the vertical face was porous and despite its repulsive appearance it was quite easy to cross (V). The lesser of evils, we preferred to haul our horribly heavy packs instead of carrying them on our backs. The climbing became more and more amazing, we were progressing slowly.

On my scramble up I passed over - astonishingly fonned dishes, holes and hollows filled with crystals of sharp quartzes, When suddenly I felt a distinct draft of fresh air, clearly announcing the proximity of the summit.

The western sun warmed us up, adding to the joy of climbing. It was barely circa 20 metres to the summit when [ felt the characteristic pull on the rope signalling its end. I fixed the belay station. Mirek came up and said that Jurek didn't feel well, that he wouldn't go any further. We decided to postpone our final push for the summit until the following day. It was already dark and we had to rappel down to Jurek and start quicly to set up the last bivi. Meanwhile, Jurek had prepared the camp platform. Unfortunately, the weather worsened during the night preceded by magnetic storm. Suddenly in the dark I noticed glimmers playing on my palms. Terrified, I woke up my partners - this wasn't a dream, we all experienced the same phenomenon. We didn't know, however, how dangerous it could be which made us feel even more worried. Finally, not having much of a choice, we went back to sleep. With our eyes closed, we didn't see them ...

The following morning of 18 August woke us up with snowfall and dense fog. Deep inside I wished we hadn't given up the plan to climb to the summit so thoughtlessly, just in the name of friendship. Mirek, who was always very optimistic reassured us that sooner or later we would reach the summit anyway. We set off quickly, progressing on the rope left from yesterday, the three of us reached the summit within an hour. We shook hands and took photos. Mirek built a small mound and underneath we placed the 'summit pack'. Unfortunately, due to snow and dense clouds, we couldn't see much and my curiosity to peer into the neighbouring valley had never been satisfied. Unwillingly, we packed up all our stuff and in a series of endless rappels we start to loose the hard-fought height to finally rest again at the foot of our Mountain.

On 12 August a team of Bender - Piasecki started their way up to the summit of Aljuna South (6100 m) in the Alpine style. To start off, they fixed the rope length through the bergschrund. For two days they climbed in the prominent chimney splitting in half bottom 1/3 of the route (VII+, AI) Over the course of four days they traversed to the left via easy snowfields to the base of the exposed ice culuoir (WI-5,4).That led to the vertical headwall (V) and on the sixth day the summit had been reached. It took two days to rappel down the gully between south and central summits, meandering their way next to the huge, unstable senac. In the midday of 19 August, they got safely to their tent and greeting friends.

The following morning, for the last time, we all set off down the glacier, from time to time looking back on the powerful, proud and magnificent summit of Brahma II, luring us from the distance with its challenging unconquered walls.

SUMMARY

Polish expedition to Aljuna in Kashmir.

Members : Slama Bogumil (leader), Skierski Zbigniew (sport leader), Barszczewski Jerzy, Bender Tomasz, Dasal Miroslaw, Piasecki Przymyslaw and Jackowski Ryszard (doctor)

The expedition was accomplished successfully, without a slightest injury. Two extreme routes were established on Arjuna west face (Main, South summits) led by two independent teams climbing in the Alpine style. Together, five expedition members ascended the summit. Until now, however, the central peak still remains unclimbed.

 

 

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A nine-member Neuchatel Swiss Alpine Club expedition lead by Jean-Michel Zweiacker made the first ascent of Saraghrar SE 7208 m in High Hindu Kush, Pakistan in the summer of 2005,.

On 22 June, the expedition, helped by 120 porters from Zondangram village, established base camp at 3930 m (N36 29.320 E72 07.743) in Rosh Gol valley. A direct route to the SE summit initially planned was rapidly abandoned due to heavy icefall exposure. This choice was, supported on 1 July when a huge ice avalanche went down initiated by an earthquake. The team chose a safer route instead, on the South face of Saraghrar and passing close to Saraghrar South summit. The South summit was reportedly climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1967 [American Alpine Journal 1968].

Camp 1 was set up at 5076 m (N36 30.658 E72 06.702) on 27 June on a secondary west oriented ridge. The route to Camp 2 alternates rocky sections and glacier. Camp 2 was located at 6147 m (N36 31.583 E72 06.956) on 8 July. From Camp 2, steep ice gullies (500) lead to more gentle slopes up to 7007m, where Camp 3 was established on 19 July.

On 24 July, Sebastien Grosjean, Mazal Chevallier and Yves-Alain Peter reached the summit of Saraghrar SE 7208 m (N36 32.255 E72 07.685) opening a route through a pass at 7224 m (N36 32.332 E72 06.850) West ofSaraghrar S, leading to Saraghrar plateau. Another pass at 7210 m (N36 32.434 E72 07.229) North of the South peak allows to reach the base of the southeast peak. The final section is composed of steep rock and ice slopes with a thin ridge leading to the summit and overlooking base camp 3300 m underneath. The same day, Fred Morthier soloed to the South summit 7307 m, following a rocky ridge directly from the pass West of Saraghrar S. He surfed down on very steep slopes from camp 3 to the top of the rocky section above Camp I. On 27 July Jean-Michel Zweiacker, Martin Liberek and Corinne Lerch reached the South summit again. Finally, on 29 July, Jean-Michel Zweiacker and Marc Belanger reached the SE peak and the South peak on the same day.

During the expedition another lower peak (4950 m) was climbed for the first time. It has no name and is located South of Saraghrar offering a perfect observation point for the Saraghrar route identification (the Saraghrar SE route picture (Expe05 JMZ Voie 4 and Expe05 1MZ_ 0053 was taken from that mountain). Marc Belanger and Fred Morthier reached that summit on 25 June, and Sebastien Grosjean on 29 July. Fred Morthier made a snowboard descent following north gullies.

SUMMARY

The first ascent of Saraghrar Southeast (7208 m) by a Swiss team, in June —July 2005.

 

 

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In June - July 2006 I joined Ryuji Hayashibara who has been fascinated by the glaciers of Karakoram for over 30 years. His description of the first traverse of six great glaciers since 1975 is in the article above. I happened to know him in 2002 and had chances to accompany him twice to these glaciers, Siachen in the east of Karakoram and Batura in the west. This is a short report of the trek to Batura glacier in 2006.

Starting on 18 June we passed Passu and started our trek reaching Washik and Yashpert. After enjoying the views of Kampir Dior we returned to the Batura glacier and crossed Werthum pass (5147 m) to Hoopkerch. Around Batura glacier, the route from the side moraine to the bed of the glacier was so complicated that we lost our way and strayed on the Yak's path. Advice from the local guide was very helpful. On the glacier, the higher we went up near Kampir Dior, the larger and more frequent the crevasses appeared. Descent from the Werthum pass was very steep and we had to fix ropes to deal with snow cornice or snow overhang.

Our third companion Hiroshi Aota had to return due to poor health. This was tragic as all our plans to climb some small peaks had to be abandoned. After dropping Aota at Raminj 1 returned to join Hayashibara. Lungpar Pir pass (5190 m) was the next one to be crossed and we camped at Kuk-ki-Jerab glacier. When crossing the Lupgar Pir pass, poor snow conditions bothered us.

The next glacier to traverse was Biatar glacier which led us to Chillinj An pass (5160 m) and down to Biatar. The ascent to Chillinj An pass from Biatar glacier was not so difficult except for soft snow. Early departure is recommended. ChiIIinj pass is a restricted area, so briefing and debriefing in the Alpine Club of Pakistan in Islamabad is required.

From here we returned to Baba Ghundi where transport was waiting to take us back to Yishukuk and Karimabad. As the bridge crossing the Chapursan river at Yishkuk was broken, we had to make a detour downstream. This also influenced our itinerary.

Weather was mostly fine but so hot that we couldn't stay in the tent in the daytime. But once it turned bad, we had to accept uncomfortable days for a week. During our trek we could see many high peaks like Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Diran (7266 m) Rakaposhi (7788 m) Passu Sar (7428 m), Shishpare (761 1m), Ultar 1 (7388 m) and others.

SUMMARY

Japanese Le Copain Alpine Club team trekked around Batura glacier. Ryuji Hayashibara accomplished his wish which was to complete the crossing of the six great glaciers in Karakoram.

 

 

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The Silver Turtle Group of elderly mountaineers over 60 years old enjoyed several climbs of 8000 m peaks in the last decade and then turned our field to the unknown regions. We focussed on peaks and glaciers in the Kangri Garpo range that stretches 280 km long from west to east in the Southeast Tibet.

A history of our expeditions

The first attempt was made in the fall of 2000. We planned: (1) To enter Aza (or Ata) glacier of the highest peak Ruoni 6882 m and traverse to the Lhagu glacier, and then (2) to cross the headwaters of the Lhagu glacier to the Midoi glacier which has an 800 m large icefall. This year, however, a terrible disaster took place in the Yi'ong Tsangpo due to a huge flood of the Yi'ong Tso (lake) which swept away and destroyed river beds, bridges and roads along the downstream. This incident blocked the south Sichuan-Tibet Highway near Tangmai. As a road along Parlung Tsangpo from Tangmai to Rawu became impassable, we were forced to choose a long detour via the northern passage as an approach. We lost valuable time and had to limit our activity to exploration of the Lhagu (also written as 'Laigu ') glacier. We traced the right bank of the Lhagu glacier using yaks employed in Lhagu village. But we could not go beyond a point beneath crevasse zone flowing from a small glacier which was connected to the Aza glacier. We did a bit of climbing in the vicinity and a traverse of the Lhagu glacier.

In 2001, we ascended the Ata Kang la (4642 m), a high pass on the trade path to Zayul from Rawu. Then we entered the Lhagu glacier following yak trails on the left bank of the glacier. We named the place around there as 'Inner Zone' of the upper part of the glacier and traced a possible route to enter the glacier.

In 2002, we again entered the glacier from 'Inner Zone' tracing the same route as the previous year. But unexpectedly softer snow on the glacier made it very difficult to go up the glacier using snow shoes and crampons. Thus we only climbed a minor peak of 5650 m.

In 2005 a ski excursion to the Ata Kang la was planned together with members of the Ski Club of JAC.

2006 Skiing Expedition

In 2006, we organised a strong team based on earlier experiences to finish our exploratory work. The plan was to trace the Lhagu glacier by skiing and to climb surrounding peaks. Members of the expedition were Takeo Honjo (64), leader, Kaneshige Ikeda (67), Isamu Moriyama (67), Haruhisa Kato (62), Hiroshi Sagano (61).

On 21 October, we set up TBC (temporary BC) at the foot of Dapa bridge on the way from Rawu to Lhagu village. On the same day we negotiated with the village chief of Dapa for use of pack animals (horses) and muleteers.

On the morning of 22 October, we left the TBC. We followed a yak trail on the right bank of the river bed. Three days later we established BC on the moraine at 4730 m where the yak trail ended. On 25 October, we ferried up gears and provisions detouring a rock ridge in front. We descended down to the glacier and set up DC (deposit camp) at 5160 m.

On 27 October, CI was established on a crevasse zone of the glacier at 5200 m.

On 30 October, after route paving and carrying loads, C2 was placed on crevasse zone at 5260 m. C2 was the final camp. We decided to send two parties from C2 for (l) climbing peaks surrounding the glacier and (2) reaching to the headwaters of the glacier.

On 31 October, wonderful weather blessed us. The two parties left C2 at 8:30 a.m. Temperatures had dipped to minus 10° at night, but the snow surface remained unexpectedly soft and did not become solid as skiing trails were 10 cm deep. The first party of Moriyama and Kato skied up to a peak 5928 m called Snow Dome on the right side of the Lhagu glacier, stood atop and skied on the descent as well. The second party of Ikeda and Sagano went up towards the glacier head and after identifying the peaks in the headwaters from just before a border with the Midoi glacier, started descending at 3:00 p.m. and returned to C2 at 6:00 p.m.

On 1 November, C2, Cl and DC were removed. On 2 November, all the members came back to Be. We were fortunate that fine weather continued everyday after having entered the glacier. The weather during the fall of 2006 in Kangri Garpo East was much better than nonnal years.

On 3 November, as we waited for horses at BC, the leader Honjo's physical condition suddenly changed and worsened. With breathing difficulties, he lost consciousness after IS minutes. After another 15 minutes his pulse stopped and he passed away. There was no time to take any emergency measures. It was a moment of great sorrow. and all of us were in shock.

On 5 November, a snow stonn continued from the previous night bringing in 30 em deep snow which made the glacier and surroundings glittering white. We wound up BC and on 7 November, we returned to TBC, arriving at Lhasa on 10 November.

The vast and untrodden Lhagu glacier greatly impressed us.

A preliminary observation of the glacier

The Lhagu glacier has a terminus to the east and headwaters in the west. It lies sloping up toward north. The peaks of the headwaters range from northwest to southeast and they continue to the highest peak Ruoni above the Aza glacier. Small branch glaciers hang on the southern side of the Lhagu glacier. The peaks are splendid, adorned with shining ice walls. On the northern side, exposed dried reel rocks containing iron properties makes a vivid contrast to the southern side. On the lower layers of the river bed yak trails continue far inside where one finds grazing yaks.

As for the climate in this area, according to a statistic of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, annual rainfall is 1000 mm. It rains mostly in the monsoon. In winter however, a welcome rain may keep grasses in the place lower than 5000 m high even during this season. Yak keepers come down to the lower altitudes often leaving the yaks in pastures even in winter.

The rugged surfaces of the crevasses on the glacier make it difficult to pass through the glacier. The rugged glacier terminus enters down to the glacier lake.

There is perennial snow above 5000 m. It was a good choice to make use of skis on the place that we called 'Inner Zone', as the topography was composed of crevasse zone and wide snow plateau.

We committed ourselves to the study of the Lhagu glacier for seven years. However, we are unable to exactly assess changes in the glacier. Current infonnation available for evaluation is only from maps such as a Russian topographical map 1:200,000, a map 1:250,000 of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and the Landsat image. Comparison of these maps tells that the glacier lake has become larger. Change in the Midoi glacier can be seen from comparison of a photo taken by the Academy in 1992-93 and our photo in 2006, showing that a rock part is now exposed on the icefall and a part of the glacier (where the flowing speed is different in the centre and sides) seems to have become smaller. This means that the glacier is retreating.

SUMMARY

Visits to the Lhagu glacier In southeast Tibet by Japanese scientists.

 

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