EXPLORING NEPAL'S LEAST KNOWN MOUNTAINS

(Osaka Alpine Club)

SADAO YOSHINAGA

IN 1971, MORE THAN A QUARTER CENTURY AGO, a prominent high peak, the Tso Karpo Kang (6556 m), in an unknown range, 40 km north of the northeastern Kanjiroba Himal attracted us. At that time, the name of range, to say nothing of the peak, was quite unknown and I had only a vague idea that it must be one of the border mountain ranges between Nepal and Tibet (China). On old Survey of India maps from 1930's onwards, the names Kubi Kangri and Palchung Hamga Himal have been roughly given to these border ranges of northwestern Nepal, after the source of the first Indian survey in the 1920's, in which this peak might be the point (6856 m). Thereafter, how to gain an access to the range had long been at the centre of my mind for more than 20 years.

In the beginning of the 1980's while still seeking for a little information, two kinds of new maps of Nepal were published (1/1,000,000 and 1/ 500,000 scale); based on the agreement of the border demarcation between Nepal and China in 1979. In these maps, we were much surprised to find some clear changes in the border line in parts of the regions in Mustang northern Humla, etc., where compared to the former maps. However, a general idea of the topography around the border became a little identified and at the same time, some of the height of the main Himalayan peaks were revised. In the beginning of 1990, the list of all the peaks higher than 6000 m, was opened to the public by Nepalese government, it became easy to refer the correct knowledge of the name of ranges or the height of peaks. We identified the peak that we had been searching for is Kanti Himal (the highest 6859 m) which lies on the border in Mugu district.

There were many scholars who had been these areas in Western Nepal in 1950' and 60'. Tony Hagen (Geologist), Williams, Polunin (Botanist), G. Tucci, D. Snellgrove (Tibetologist), J. Kawakita, F. Haimendolf, C. Jest (Anthropologist), H. Gurung (geographer) and etc... though limited areas along the main trade route, except a part of Kawakita account in 1958. Most of their travelogues, however, were not enough to give us information on the topographical detail of the mountains in the border ranges. Also, some of the climbing expeditions in 60's and 70's, mainly for north side of Kanjiroba Himal, passed through and around 35 km south of these border ranges. But most of them rarely paid attentions to the northern border ranges because of scant visibility from their routes along the southern river.

North Western Nepal

North Western Nepal

Panoramas A-B-E, Colour Plate 1, Fold-out map

Until the end of 1996, our first plan was fixed to send an expedition to reconnoitre this mountain range from NW in spring of 1997. There were two reasons why we firstly chose a route of western access to the range. The first was the predictable difficulty of river gorges of south side of the ranges, and as the second, we would be expecting to have more convenient base at Mugu village to extend our researches to further western ranges. Thus, while the first plan was steadily proceeding, the point of our expedition was more expanded, not only to investigate a way to Kanti Himal, but also to carry out a series of exploratory researches to all mountain ranges along the border in whole Northwestern Nepal, most of which had never been explored or not a peak was climbed. It covers more than 400 km, from Dolpo to the farthest northwestern border ranges north of Humla Karnali river.

In these circumstances, our expedition, sent in the Spring of 1997 became the first of four, and was followed by the second in Autumn 1998, which sent to south side of Kanti Himal, Gorakh Himal, and Changla Himal. The third expedition, to northern Dolpo carried out in the summer of 1999, made careful researches on the complicated northern passes of Dolpo, and the fourth, to farthest border ranges of Chandhi Himal and Nalakankar Himal, was sent in the summer of 2000.

1997 SPRING:

The Search for Kanti Himal

On 18 April, our expedition gathered at Gamgadhi, northeastern foot of beautiful Rara lake; via Pokhara and Surkhet by a chartered large-size Russian helicopter at one time. After four days march-in trek, we arrived at Mugu, the last village on the trade route along Mugu Khola. On 24th, we started the activities of searching for the way to the wanted peak at the source of eastern tributary of Mugu Khola. A temporary BC was placed at 4000 m, of Koji Khola and settled BC (4650 m) on 27 April. This valley (Koji Khola) seems to be one of the trade routes in old times, but now unfrequented, between Mugu and Changtang (Tibet), crossing the border at Koji la.

On 1 May, we placed our advanced camp on a vast snow field of Koji la (5495 m). First work we had to do was to find out as soon as possible our peak, namely the main peak of Kanti Himal. Since nobody knew what the peak is like, and where we are able to get its first glimpse. For two days, three of us began to fix the ropes on snow and ice ridge of the unnamed peak, just south of the col, to catch the elusive figure of our peak. On 3 May, another two of us climbed up to the snowy north peak (6159 m) from the advanced camp. When they were nearing the summit, a tall gigantic peak dominating others came into their sight on their back, above and far beyond the peak when we were making route from the col. The shape of the peak was just like a big vaulting box piled up to a 1000 m height with snow and ice. Soon they stood on the top the peak and obtained a clean view of white splendour of the whole range of Kanti Himal from S to NW, and in contrast, NE and SE to the light brown grandeur of the Tibetan high plateau.

On 5th, three members started early in the morning to the southern peak (6328 m) to get a closer view of the main peak. At 8.30 am, they reached the upper end of the fixed rope (5850 m), placed on the previous day and continued to climb up knife edged ridge and got over steep slope of blue ice just bellow the summit. They reached the top, pointed just like a spearhead at 12.30 pm. Closer southern view to the north face of Kanti Himal was unfortunately disturbed by strong wind with floating thick mist.

As a result, we concluded that there would be no feasible way to get near the main peak from Koji la, unless we could cross the boundary and more or less step into glaciers of the Tibetan side. After some survey works around the whole range, we began to descend for Mugu. Trekking northward to Namja la (4986 m) was very pleasant in full bloom of primula (p. denticulat). In northern part of Kanti Himal, we found several peaks exceeding 6000 m. Among the ranges near Namja la, there are splendid two or three peaks, locally named Kaputang and Rungle Himal, though the height of them are probably lower than 6000 m, but each having a something like individual character.

On 14 June, we started a pleasant return trek to Jumla, via Gamgadhi, Rara lake, Gurchi la and, Chautha.

1998 AUTUMN:

The South side of Kanti Himal (6859 m), Gorakh Himal and the attempt to Changla Himal I (6563 m)

In September 1998, we returned to Muga again to reconnoitre the southern approach to the main peak of Kanti Himal (6859 m). We arrived at Mangri on 6 September, to where Russian helicopter brought us from Surkhet in two flights, with 11 Japanese and four Nepalese including a Liaison officer and all of our equipments.. Before that, a Japanese member and a few Sherpas had been sent in advance to Gamgadhi together with 70 porters from Jumla carrying tons of foods. After two days' march from Mangri, our entire expedition was divided into two groups; one, consisting of 4 climbers and 20 porters with the aim of reconnoitring the south face of the main peak of Kanti Himal. They crossed Gorah la (5182 m) on 11th, and entered into the eastern fork of the valley just south of the peak. Then, on 15th, they settled BC at 4900 m, after fighting against thick bushes.

Article 4 (M. Taniguchi)
PANORAMA A: Panoramic view from Changla southwest peak. Left far distance (SE) is Saipal group (7031m) and peaks of Takphu Himal. Numerous peaks in front are on the unexplored divide between Dojam khola and several rivers in the Humla region

Article 4 (M. Taniguchi)
PANORAMA B: Panoramic view to west and northwest from Changia southwest peak (6162m. Mountains going far left to right are on the international boundary.

Another group settled the base camp at Purano Mugu (means old Mugu), 17 km north of the present village, on 11 September, and they spent three weeks there; visiting Namja la along the trade route; or making their way into neighbouring unknown valleys to observe the border mountains of northern part of Kanti Himal. One of other important tasks given to them was to find out an unknown pass between Mugu Khola and Tanke Khola, which the entire expedition is supposed to pass toward west three weeks later. Tanke Khola is a long valley which no foreigner had ever penetrated and a pass we are expected to cross, is at present hardly used by even local peoples of each side.

Half an hour climbing above Mugu village, there are two old temples surrounded by forest of silver birch. In one of them, I was served with several cups of butter tea by the old widow, with whom I had become familiar from my visit of last year. The temples are of Karma Kagyupa order and was built in the middle of 19th century, at the time of their first immigration from north. She told me that her husband lama of the temple had died several years ago and her son has succeeded his father. When I showed her some of the pictures in Dr. Harka Gurung's book "Vignettes of Nepal", taken when he visited there in 1966. She started calmly at one of pictures of her, taken together with the late lamas and their children at the front of the alter, which seemed to remind her of the happy younger days of 32 years ago.

Meanwhile, the party to Kanti Himal main peak pitched advanced camp at 5075 m on 16th. The awful south face of 1800 m high was standing in front of them. The south face itself is composed of lower half of rock precipices and upper half of overwhelming hanging glaciers with numerous huge ice cliffs, defending against the raiders into the face. The summit ridge above 6800 m is gentle snow ridge nearly 1 km length east to west. The east summit it 6859 m and the west 6811 m. On the south face, it seemed to be impossible to find a feasible route to the summit. They tried to seek for alternative route on E ridge, W face and NW ridge. Their hard works for a week, however, ended in vain. Only a fruit of their activities was that they got through the western glaciers to stand on the western col of the Tibetan border.

On 3 October, entire expedition assembled at Purano Mugu. The second stage began without any halt. Here, expedition was again divided into two. One group traced their way along the boundary between Namja la (4986 m) and Kang la (5358 m), and reconnoitred the eastern part of Gorakh Himal. Another party proceeded to Tanke Khola, crossing the col (c. 5100 m) which they had previously found. Two parties gathered again at the confluence of Chengar Khola, and down toward the main trade route from Jumla to Simikot. At the lower part of Tanke Khola, there is a village named Nepka, which is the most interior village in the valley and unsophisticated villagers are living. We were welcomed as unfamiliar first foreigners from another planet, but we got from them some of cucumbers and chicken, too nimble to be captured and too tough for us to eat. For a week after that, we continued the trek to Simikot along Humla Karnali river, mostly in heavy rain. Climbing team of six changed their course to Dojam Khola on 20th, and settled BC (4200 m) just west foot of Changla on 26th, 6 km south of Changla pass (5293 m).

Changla Himal was once explored in 1983 by a Japanese Women's Expedition led by Kyoko, Endo. However, the peak attempted by them was the highest (6721 m, N30 08 08, E82 11 58) of this group, not the peak for which now climbing permission is granted (6563 m, N30 18 11, E82 07 44). They were the first and the last expedition in this area prior to ours of 1998. There are four or five other interesting high peaks on the border exceeding 6500 m, and a few in Chinese territory among the vast expanse of the mountain range, the SE edge of which was explored by Sven Hedin in 1907.

Two camps were placed on the moraine of the west glacier at 5023 m and 5340 m. Only one week was left for us to find route and to climb the peak. The route through north col to the summit was abandoned, because of the predictable danger from avalanches, and they advanced to the west ridge of southwest peak, from where the main peak might be accessible. On 31 October, they stood on the top of Changla Southwest peak (6162 m) in the fury of winter west wind, though the weather was fine, and learned that it would take a few more days to continue the climb to the Changla main summit.

Next day, they hurried down and returned base camp in the dark and immediately next morning, without taking rest, we started an intolerable forced return march to Simikot with the desire of sooner escape from the isolation in dreary winter condition of surrounding Changla mountains.

1999 SUMMER:

How many passes on the border ranges in Upper Dolpo? Exploring two unknown border mountain Ranges of Dolpo.

Our aim of the expedition in 1999 to Upper Dolpo was firstly to make clear the topographical detail of the border ranges which had been kept concealed politically for long years, by the practical research for the all passes of northern Dolpo. These border ranges are now called Gautam Himal and Palchung Hamga Himal. The former range on the border demarcated is as follows; from Sana La Bhangjyang (5465 m), close west of Arnikochuli (6034 m) of Mustang Himal to Laru Bhangjyang (5239 m). Peaks on the border are almost nameless and not exceeding 6000 m, only except two peaks. The latter, Palchung Hamga Himal is in fact our main target of the expedition, and defined from Laru Bhanjyang to the Peak 6263 m (E82 49 40, N29 41 20) at the most north western part of Dolpo district, most part of which had never been explored and peaks in the range and their topography has been quite unknown even to this day. Among them are several peaks exceeding 6500 m, and there is only one peak named as Daphe Sail on the recent map of Nepal (6103 m, E83 00 32, N29 4020), though not the highest of the group.

We left Jomsom on 5 June, after having the period of acclimatization toward foot hills of Dhaulagiri or Tilitso lake. On the first pass on the divide between Kali Gandaki and Bheri river, Tuje La Bhangjyang (5124 m), we suffered from unexpected deep fresh snow on the way to the summit. After that, however, we were blessed with the usual summer weather of Dolpo, occasionally with cold rain and hail. Entire party arrived at Tinkyu on 11 June, via Chharka and Moh la, where we were divided into two groups, one as the main party to cross high hills and valleys of upper Dolpo toward Phoksumdo, and the another party to walk around all border passes, irrespective of known or unknown. Both group were expected to meet at Shey Gompa about four weeks later.

The latter group composed of two Japanese with two Sherpas and six porters, made a spartan tour without any support of investigate all the passes successively on the border: from Mariyun la to western most pass among the two border ranges. As a result, they completed the ascent of seven passes existing on the border. In old days, most of villagers of either Upper or Lower Dolpo were principally depending on the cross trading between Tibet and Dolpo: cattle gazing in Tibetan high plain and bartering grain and daily necessaries from the south for Tibetan rock salt and wool. Since 1960', however, that economical system was changing, and disappearing. Nowadays, the importance of numerous passes of Dolpo seems to be fairly minimized than in old days. Although we often met a few villagers from the south and also some Tibetans from north on the way to or from passes, we never encountered such traditional traders in large scale that previously we expected to meet.

A rocky unnamed peak (6024 m, E83, 08, 31, N29 39 37), located to the E of Lung Chung Kamo Bhanjyan (5393 m, E83 07 47, N29 37 15) in the eastern part of Palchung Hamga Himal, was climbed to get the last and a full panoramic view from the summit. Although three eastern most passes were omitted in the program, we left our footprints on seven passes among two mountain ranges, The westernmost pass on the border, which is scarcely known even among the locals, was abandoned because of the difficulty to access from the south. However, this isolated pass is considered the most desirable approach from the east to Daphe Sail or highest peak of Palchung Hamga Himal. Here we have to mention about the correct topography of Daphe Sail (6103 m). This peak above named and other higher peaks of the range are surely on the boundary and the border line goes through westward along the great water divide. However, this peak seem to be the highest of Palchung Hamga Himal, as seen from the south, just like Matterhorn in Wallis. Most of the inhabitants living in Western Dolpo believe that it lies on the border. Also north, from the motor road between Lhasa and Purang, this peak can be seen as a single predominant peak on the border and its height 6103 m shown on the map has been wondered too small. On our practical research of this time, we confirmed the fact that this peak, Daphe, Sail (6103 m) is on the border and its northern highest point (exceeding 6500 m), is located 1.7 km north of Daphe Sail itself and clearly in Tibet. These two peaks are seen from the south completely overlapped and as a single peak on the border. We were able to distinguish them clearly from three directions, E (from Lung Chung Kamo Bhangjyang), S (from track between Shey and Phijor) and SW (from the way above Poe). In 1900, a Japanese Buddhist priest Ekai Kawaguchi entered Tibet by a pass in Dolpo. On his famous book "Three Years in Tibet", he narrated that he proceeded observing a mountain as a guide. This remarkable peak was once considered as Kawaguchi's "a mountain as a guide" on his way to Tibet. However, we are still in the labyrinth to know by which pass in Dolpo he smuggled himself into Tibet on 4 July 1900 just a hundred years ago.

The second program was carried forward by the same team, after our entire expedition gathered at Shey Gompa on 14 July and main group started the trek to Jumla via Phoksumdo, Kagmara la, Hurikot and Maure la.. Poe, the innermost small village of Dolpo within three days' walk from Shey Gompa, was our starting point of the second program. In western part of Pachung Hamga Himal, most of peaks on the border have a height exceeding 6000 m and some of them are over 6400 m. They are followed by peaks to the west, Kanti Himal, the highest of which is 6859 m. peak and had explored twice in previous two years: in 1997 and 1998 by our expeditions. Thus, one of our aims of this year was to connect the northern area of Dolpo with the researches on Kanti Himal and further northwest of the border ranges of past two years.

From Poe, a poor track leads to Mugu district through the southern foot of Kanti Himal. To the north we climbed up along Swachha Khola to the snout of a glacier flowing down from one peak in the border range. We crossed Yala la (5425 m, N29 39 10, E83 49 40) on 19 July. At the top of the pass, new peaks on the border attracted us. One of the peaks (6455 m, N29 41 23, E83 52 25) had ever been climbed by German-Austrian Joint Expedition in 1993, who changed their target to the northern peak on the border, after failed to cross the torrent of Langu Khola before reaching northern foot of Kanjiroba Main Peak. (AAJ vol.36. 1994).

The highest of this group (6528 m, N29 41 23, E83 53 10) lies 1.7 km east of this 6455 m peak climbed in 1993. There are other several peaks (including those in Tibet) of 6200 m to 6500 m in this group with abundant snow and glaciers on both sides of the border and all peaks are not attempted except one. From Yala la, we suddenly entered into the world of green coloured forests and bushes, extremely different from the scenery we used to have in all Dolpo. Eight Nepalese from Kathmandu raised a shout of joy as though they seemed to have returned to Nepal. Traversing westward on the south side of Kanti Himal, we were suffered from overcoming deep bushes. Before reaching Gorah la (5182 m), our route was tied with that of last year.

At Mugu, our food, depended on mainly Tibetan meal in latter half, only tsampa and tea, at last closed. Starvation crisis among the porters, especially Kathmandu porters, was evaded by abundant rice, stocked there by our last expedition. Return trek to Gamgadhi with admirable scenery along Mugu Karnali River, were a monotonous routine of silent march, fatigued by intense heat of summer.

2000 summer: Visiting the Tibetan Wilds of Farthest Northwest Nepal. Around Nalakankar Himal and Thakpu Himal.

On 3 June, our entire expedition gathered at Simikot, the administrative headquarter of Humla district and a small town with tiny airfield (2818 m) on the northern hillside, 900 m above the bottom of Humla Karnali river.

In recent years, the importance of this small town has increased for the world wide tourists to Mt. Kailas in every summer.

In the summer of this year, we were expected to visit the farthest northwestern corner of this district. Our destinations, Chandhi Himal and Nalakankar Himal, both lay on the northern border land, really impressed as the highest land of whole Nepal. It is a fact that the land itself seems to geographically or geologically be a part of Tibetan high plateau where four great rivers of Indian subcontinent originate. Roughly speaking, the southern half of this district is inhabited by mostly Thakuri and Chetri people, and there are many villages with cultivated fields on the hill side along the main Humla Karnali river or its tributaries. The northern half, on the contrary, is a vast high plain with little vegetation and inhabitants except not a few karkas for grazing cattle in summer. These people of Tibetan stock are mostly from villages settled along Limi Khola. Height of the land is nearly 5000 m on the average at extreme north. In fact, such a physical circumstance of this area is nothing but that of Tibetan high plain north beyond the border.

Up to the time the first border demarcation was agreed between Nepal and China in 1961, most of the northern half of this area was really out of Nepalese territory on former maps. It was because that the uppermost vast basin of present Takche Chu (Khola) and Dojam Khola, two main northern tributaries of Humla Karnali river, had never been explored of surveyed at all. Those lands were drawn reduced or shortened within the limits of North latitude, even on the Survey of India map published in 1930' or any other maps revised before the second world war. The border line of this area limits from E81 23 to E82 12 in longitude was drawn around 10 minutes in latitude (about 18.5 km) more southward than the present line. It is interesting to see the reference old map overlapped on new one in same scale.

It is for this reason, I believe, that when Nepalese government defined and amended the name and location of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya for new Mountaineering Regulation in the beginning of 1980's, the name of two high peaks, namely Changla to the east and Nalakankar (present Takphu) to the west, which existed at the both ends of the border line on old maps, were slipped to northern new different peaks: namely, present Changla (6563 m, N30 18 11, E82 07 44), and present Nalakankar (6062 m, N30, 21 27, E81 23 58), in proportion to the change of the border line northward. Changla located in old map (present Peak 6721 m, N30 08 08, E82 11 58) and Nalakankar (locally called Takphu Himal, present highest of border line, Peak 6422 m, N30 15 04, E81 23 32) are both the highest of each group. It means that now the highest of Changla Himal and Nalakankar (Takphu Himal) are really the peaks which should be given the name Changla and Nalakankar as they were.

We remember that, on old maps once there was an unknown peak of seven thousander, Nalakankar (7335 m) at the northwestern corner of Nepal and its whereabouts was discussed since middle of 1950' among the greedy peak hunters of the world mountaineering circles. In 1963, a Japanese expedition (leader Hisao Ando), sent by Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido University, entered to this area to make clear about the topography around this elusive peak. As a result, they failed in finding out the peak around there and some of the member were arrested by Chinese Army to Taklakot (present Purang) on the charge of border violation, after an attempt to the east side of Gurla Mandhata, taking it for Nalakankar. (JAC Journal "Sangaku" 1964)

We were much surprised to know that no expedition had entered this area for these thirty-five years since the one in 1963 above described, and that officially we were the second after the opening Nepal Himalaya. Simikot, our starting point of the trek to the north, was crowded by the tourists to and from Mt. Kailas. On the third day from Simikot, we left the main trekking route along Humla Karnali, and ascended Chungsa Khola in the heavy rain of monsoon which continued for several days. We crossed Nyalu la (4940 m) on 16 June, and entered into the country of climatically dry arid zone of northern part of Humla. On 21 June our first BC was settled at a southern hillside of Sakya Khola after crossing a pass, Pulki Lada.

For about four weeks thereafter, we wandered to east and north in the circumstance equal to the land beyond the northern border and enjoyed some exploratory climbs and tours to unknown mountain groups to the east on the divided between Chandhi Himal and Changla Himal, the latter of which we had been two years ago. From the summit of passes or hills on the northern border, Lapche la, Lolung la, Nalakankar la, and so on, we sometimes could obtain the grand view to Manasarovar lake and Mt. Kailas (6714 m) far beyond the extensive Tibetan high plateau.

In the matter of Nalakankar Himal (6062 m), for which our permission was granted, it proved that the peak is no more than a hill on the border, surrounded by shallow valleys with some remaining snow on extreme high land over 5000 m. But interesting enough, this became only a peak for which the first ascent was made without any ropes or even climbing boots, among the numerous peaks of Nepal Himalaya, which obliged to get climbing permission.

An attempt to the highest of Nalakankar Himal, about 13 km southward, was made from the upper stream of Til Khola for a week after a long detour for three days on the high plain, crossing two freezing cold streams and two passes toward south to Halj village. Jang, Halj and Til are three villages along Limi valley, the lower part of Takche Chu. We were welcomed with some different way from the ordinary Tibetans living far from the civilized towns. We were much surprised when they invited us into their clean houses and served us with plenty of beer cans and pieces of chocolate. Against our common sense, now they are very rich people by their famous products of woodwork, especially after changing of Chinese economic policy to increase intensively the trading market at Purang in southwestern Tibet since 1980's. Peoples living in Limi valley seem to have received much more profitable influence in changing of their standard of living than most of Nepalese of Western Nepal.

At Hilsa, border village of Nepalese side, we could not meet any Nepalese except a restaurant hut for tourist, where Chinese staff of the immigration office very often come for their meals. No one was in Nepalese immigration office or police station. All of them now retired to Muchu, 25 km down the Humla Karnali River over Nara la (4620 m).

As the summary of our expedition, we concluded that, first, in the northern high plain near western half of the boundary are no peaks worth climbing and the second, some unknown and interesting peaks exceeding 6000 m remained to be explored on the eastern divide, one of which was climbed by 4 members. Regarding Takphu Himal (highest of Nalakankar Himal), we were nothing but the followers of the Kokkaido University's expedition in 1963, for which we owed much. Their exploratory activities at the days when any information hardly obtained, I believe, was highly admirable in the history of the area. By the recent Chinese map, we now come to know that there are a few more higher points in height just out of the border, than the highest peaks on the Nepalese border.

Another aim of my journey to northernmost area of Humla was achieved by the wandering among the country of Tibetan wild. The problem was that, by which route Thomas Webber and his comrades had crossed Himalayan mountains and advanced to the source of Tsangpo river in 1863, just a hundred years ago before the exploration of Hokkaido University in 1963. It was clearly proved that they were the first visitors to this area and his "Dak Eo", a pass which they had crossed within three days from Taklakot, was surely on the present northwestern border very near the Nalakankar peak (6062 m). And also the fact that they easily had crossed another pass toward north, from there getting a view of Manasarovar lake and Mt. Kailas, and had reached to the vast Tsangpo river basin within a week from there, was probed as not impossible, in spite of Sven Hedin's severe criticism to the narrative in Webber's book published in 1902. In his interesting book, "A Mountain in Tibet", Mr. Charles Allen reasoned about Webber's route by Landsat satellite map. However, his supposed route offered in his book is quite impossible to follow even in two weeks, and they would have never be able to see Manasarovar lake and Mt. Kailas from whatever passes they took on his way Also, Mt. Limi is erroneously explained as a peak Chmayundon, which really exists in the eastern part of present Changla Himal.

SUMMERY

Several expeditions to Nepal, exploring and climbing in the northwest Nepal.

View from summit of  Changla southwest peak, looking about 80 km away. Naimonani (7658 m) in centre with Gonalha (6902). Vast snow plateau in between is basin of Takche chu.(M. Taniguchi)

View from summit of Changla southwest peak, looking about 80 km away. Naimonani (7658 m) in centre with Gonalha (6902). Vast snow plateau in between is basin of Takche chu.(M. Taniguchi)

Panorama C; View from Filippi point, looking to Central Rimo glacier, Depsang plains on extreme right. (Kaivan Mistry)

Panorama C; View from Filippi point, looking to Central Rimo glacier, Depsang plains on extreme right. (Kaivan Mistry)

Panorama E; Kanti Himal and surrounding peaks.

Panorama E; Kanti Himal and surrounding peaks.

 

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