TWENTY YEARS OF MOUNTAINEERING IN CHINA

To seek for an unknown place and an unclimbed peak

KINICHI YAMAMORI

PEOPLES' REPUBLIC OF CHINA (China) has the third largest area in the world, after Russia and Canada, which is about 25 times as large as Japan, and has the border with 14 countries. It has many mountain ranges, Da Hinggan Ling, Qin Ling, Nan Ling, Hengduan Himalaya, Gangdisem Karakoram, Pamir, Kunlun, Tianshan, Altay and etc. These have many high-altitude mountains, including nine 8000 m peaks, which attract mountain climbers.

China contains many 7000-8000 m peaks in the Himalayan and Karakoram ranges in the south, which is the border area with India, Bhutan, Nepal and Pakistan. It also has the Da Hinggan Ling, Pamir, Kunlun, Tianshan and Altay range in the west, which is with Afghanistan, Tadzhikistan, Kyrgyz and Kazakhstan and in the north, with Mongol and Russia. There is North Korea to the east and many 5000-7000 m peaks lie in the central area.

China has not only high peaks, but also has several big rivers, such as Changjiang, Huang He, Heilongjiang, Zhujnag, Huai He and Yarlung Zangbo, plateaus, such as Qing Zang, Nei Mongol, Huangth and Yun Gui, and deserts, such as Qaidam, Taklimakan and Junggar. The unexplored areas in China are due to such natural factors.

The feature of mountaineering in China is in the approach march to mountains. To go to a mountain, climbers have to cross plateaus in a jeep, go across a big river by raft, have a caravan using camels and yaks, and open a way through deep forests using hatchets and saws.

Climbers could meet much adventure in their approach march to mountains. However, China also has thousands of legends and historic spots, which would satisfy their curiosity.

Fold-out Map 2

Attraction of unopened areas of the Chinese Himalaya

Which climber in the world doesn't want to climb the mountains in China? But, after the World War II, a violent internal war continued between the Communist Party and the National Party. On October 1^st, 1949 during this war, the Communist Party declared the foundation of "Peoples' Republic of China." For several years from then, the government did not accept expeditions from foreign countries to enter China because of the founding of their country.

In 1955, Chinese people started their own activities in mountaineering. In 1958, Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) was established formally. But in those days, China could not allow foreign expeditions to enter (except the former Soviet Union's).

In 1955, Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto (AACK), one of the oldest mountaineering society in Japan, sought permission for mountaineering in China through Guo Moruo, the president of the Chinese Science Academy.

Moreover in 1964, Tohoku University AC applied to CMA for scientific investigation jointly with China.

In 1957, All Nippon Mountaineering Association applied to All China Sport Association for a joint expedition, but, in the next year, was refused because of un-establishment of mountaineering society. In the spring of 1962, both H. Ozeki, the president of All Nippon Mountaineering Ass. And A, Takahashi, the chairman of foreign affairs, applied to Li Shubin, the president of CMA, for joint expedition of Xixabangma in the spring of 1964.

The Chinese expedition made first ascent of Xixabangma, ironically, in May 1964, which was the period that the Japanese side had requested for a joint expedition.

As these examples of the Japanese Prone, climbers have made much effort to climb mountains in China.

In 1972, Kakuei Tanaka, the Prime Minister of Japan, visited China, and as a result, the Japan-China diplomatic relations were normalized. Thus, it was thought that the mountaineering in China would commence soon.

However, in those days, the Cultural Revolution was continuing thus, foreign expeditions could not be allowed to enter under such a situation.

More mountaineering and scientific expeditions were applied for after the normalization of diplomatic relations, compared to before it. Shi Zhanchun, the then vice president of CMA, reported in High Mountain Peaks in China, published in 1981 in Japan that there were mountaineering applications of more than one hundred individuals and societies from more than 30 countries since 20 years from the start of mountaineering in China in 1955.

The History of Mountaineering in China published in 1993 in China says that the number of applications were 40 from Japan, 11 from Austria and 7 from USA, and that other 18 countries applied.

The old Chinese legend says that the president dies in the year of Dragon. In 1976, the year of Dragon, Mao Tsetung, Zho Enlai and Zhu Teh went to see Marx in succession.

Then, after the arrest of "Four Members of Jiang Qing and Others" by Hua Guofen, and the downfall of him, Deng Xiaoping took up the reins of government and promoted "Four Modernization of Industry, Agriculture, Defense and Technology." Then, the opening of mountaineering in China was declared as one of the movements of reform and opening.

During then, the preparation for the opening was done in the State Physical Culture and Sports Commission and the Travel Department. Shi Zhenchun and his group went to Nepal to visit the Government Ministry of Tourism and travel agency, and made the definite rule using this information. This rule was admitted by the National Affairs House in September 1979, and published to the world.

The opening of the China Himalaya

In September 1979, Chinese government published that foreign expeditions could enter high-altitude mountains from 1980.

The opened mountains were 8 peaks, Qomolangma and Xixabangma in Tibet. Zizhiqu, Kongur, Muztagh Ata, Kongur Tobe and Bogda in Xinjian. Uygur Zizhiqu, Minya Konka in Sichuan Sheng and Amne Machin in Qinghai Sheng. In 1981, 5 peaks, Qogir, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad peak in Xinjian. Uygur Zizhiqu and Siguniag in Sichuan Sheng, were opened.

Just after the opening, the peaks adjoining the open mountains were also permitted to be climbed, such as Zhangzi, to the north of Qomolangma. Moramenchin, to the east of Xixabangma. Porong Ri, to the west of Xixabangma and Huangguan Feng, to the northwest of Qogir.

The opening of other mountains was done when expedition applied and the Chinese government concluded it was OK.

After the opening, many difficult mountaineering activities were done mainly in 8000 m peaks. For example, on Qomolangma, R. Messner made a solo ascent without oxygen and the pair of E. Loretan and J. Tirollet climbed via the northwest wall in alpine style without oxygen in a 44 hours round trip.

In 1983, the ascent of Qomolangma in winter was tried by Kamoshika A. C. and T. Hasegawa, but failed.

In 1988, the north-south traverse of Qomolangma was performed by the joint expedition of China, Nepal and Japan. N. Yamada, a Japanese climber, succeeded in traversing Qomolangma from north to south. A TV camera crew went together and Japanese people could see the scene of the summit of TV.

Japanese expeditions have made active attempts to ascend unclimbed peaks. This is reason is not only because Japan is near China geographically.

Until now, when the Himalaya were opened newly, Japanese expeditions had rushed to there areas at the same time, and suddenly stopped because of cooling the heat off. The same situation was observed in the case of Karakoram, Garhwal, Kashmir, Gangotri and Bhutan.

But, the enthusiasm for climbing mountains in China has continued without any change. This is not only because the area of China is vast.

When climbing in China was opened, expeditions in China was said to be more expensive than that of other Himalayan countries. In the case of some mountains, such as unclimbed peaks or the peaks that foreign expeditions attempted the first time, it is true. Nevertheless, the number of expeditions has not decreased.

One of the reasons is thought to be the consciousness of the assaulter of the World War II. In the war, Japan attacked China and did much damage in many areas in China. The sponsors of expeditions sometimes feel sorry about it. Such people would think to make up for the fault in the war by paying money to China for mountaineering, trekking and sightseeing under the friendship between Japan and China.

Many of the expeditions under this background would pay higher cost for mountaineering readily. This fact has some effects to China.

The special characteristic of mountaineering in China

The feature of climbing in China is the "contract system". In Nepal and Pakistan, expeditions prepare everything they need themselves, for example, employment of porters, vehicles and animals, reservations of hotels and air tickets, purchase of foods. On the other hand, in a China CMA contracts to manage all of them, and expeditions themselves cannot touch them at all. Moreover, they have to pay all of the cost one month before they enter China. However, in these days, they are able to buy food by themselves.

But, these contracts were not sometimes performed actually. For example, a contract says that 20 yaks are to be brought but nothing appears all day. Such troubles at 9 am have been reported frequently.

China is a young country. Thus, the speed of change is very fast, and the development of the coast is different from that of the inland, geographically. These situations have had much effect on mountaineering.

Especially in cost, from 1986, expeditions have to pay in US dollars instead of Chinese Yuan. Thus, the cost became rather expensive.

On the other hand, Japanese Yen has become stronger. In 1981, one Chinese Yuan was about 132 Japanese Yen, but in 1985, it became 90 Yen, in 1986, 55 and in 1987, 38, and now about 15. This fact made us feel the different ages.

There is one more feature in climbing in China. That is the overwhelming activities by Japanese expeditions. As a chart, in these 20 years, 289 parties and 2637 members have entered. Moreover, Japanese parties comprise about 80 percent of the first tries of major mountains. The targets of climbing by other countries' parties except Japanese have been Qomolangma, Cho Oyu, Xixapangma and Muztagh Ata. On the other hands, Japanese have gone to high-altitude peaks all over China.

China is a multiethnic country. There are 55 minorities, in addition to the "Han People," the major race that comprises the most of the population. Most areas of mountaineering activities are the places where minorities live in.

Thus, many climbers become interested in the minorities who live in the place they visit and moreover, they realise that it is essential for the success of their climbing to understand these minorities.

And, for the success, they have to understand that China is the "Han People" — centered society, although it is a multiethnic country. The climbing in China has to be performed after climbers learn the Chinese way of thinking such as "Han People Ism" and the long history of Han People as well as the deep interests in minorities.

The modern China has the intention to keep the original socialism nation. Thus, everything is decided under the interpretation of Chinese style. Climbing is not a war. It could be carried out on the condition that other country permits it. There are many troubles if climbing is performed under the principle that contracts are all-round. The differences of principles and opinions between us and Chinese never have to be reformed. The permission is issued for the climbing, not for education.

We never have to stick to our principle; When in Rome, do as the Romans do.

The activities of Japanese expeditions in the Chinese Himalaya

(1) The joint mountaineering institute by Nagano Mountaineering Association.

In the autumn of 1980, the delegation of CMA, whose leader was Qiao Jiagin, was invited to Japan by the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC), which made to the ascent Qomolangma in spring. Then, Nagano M. A. proposed to hold a Japan and China Joint Mountaineering Technique Institute. After discussion about it, both countries agreed that CMA sponsored it and that Nagano M. A. controlled it mainly for years.

The series of the training session were held in both countries in turns. In April 1981, a party of nine Chinese climbers, whose leader was Wang Zhenhua, came to Japan and held the first joint training. They trained at Happou-one, the Central Alps, Yatsuga-take and Hodaka-dake and all of nine Chinese could pass the second class instructor examination by JAM. In 1982, at the second session, a party of fifty Japanese climbers, whose leader was T. Takeda went to China and trained at Bogda peak in Xinjiang. The series of training sessions continued after that time, and has had good effects on the mountaineering of both countries.

Nagano M. A. also cooperated in constructing an artificial rock wall in the suburbs of Beijing, which was built for the technical progress of rock- climbing.

Moreover, it stands up by special activities, for example, it entered a sister agreement with Tibet M. A.

(2) The training of young members by the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC)

JAC Qomolangma in the spring of 1980. It got summitted continuous permission to climb the Bogda mountains in Xinjiang for 5 years from 1981 to educate younger members, mainly students (Sangaku, vol. 77 p74).

In these mountains they climbed the main peak I, first ascent of II and the traverse from west peak of I to central peak (first ascent) and to south peak.

The climbing in Bogda mountains was finished in 1984. The expedition to Qilian and Yuzhu (the former Hoh Saigin Mongh) was organised in commemoration of the 80^th anniversary of the foundation. This plan was performed by younger members on the basis of "the idea of Bogda".

(3) The activities of HAJ

The activities of HAJ have been unique in mountaineering in China.

In 1983, the first expedition of HAJ to a Chinese mountain was organised. For 16 years from then to 1998, many expeditions and exploring teams were sent, 334 members in 52 parties. Two female joint expeditions (Mushu Muztagh in Xinjiang in 1985 and Yushu in Qinghai in 1994) and three joint expeditions (Xuebao Ding in Sichuan in 1986, Lapche Kang in Tibet in 1987 and Kula Kangri II in 1997) were included in them.

As a result, the expeditions of HAJ could ascend unclimbed mountains, four 7000 m peaks, two 6000 m peaks and two 5000 m peaks. Sadly seven members were lost on two peaks by two avalanche.

Moreover, in the autumn of 1983, two members were sent to China to coach rock-climbing technique for the Chinese expedition to Namcha Barwa of the next year's spring.

To promote better understanding about mountaineering in China, HAJ invited delegations of CMA in the summer of 1983, Sichuan M. A. in the spring and Tibet M. A. in the autumn of 1986 and CMA in the winter of 1999, and held the China Himalaya Study Meet for Japanese lovers of climbing in China.

The information and know-how, which had been got through many joint expeditions study sessions and frequent visits to China for public relations were reported in a book, "China Himalaya Guide Book". This is popular with climbers who want to climb in China.

The Summary of 20 years of the mountaineering in China (1979-1983)

JAC, which got the permission of climbing in Qomolangma for the first time after the opening of Chinese mountains, sent a exploring team to the Rongbuk Glacier in September, 1979. They reconnoitered the northwest wall at 6500 m of the north ridge, were caught in an avalanche and died. Three four members exploring Chinese high-altitude cooperators were died, thus this team was forced to give up. Therefore, mountaineering in China had after opening has a dramatic beginning.

-1980-

JAC party traced a new route of the lower part of northwest wall of Qomolangma, and passed through the Hornbein Coulior T. Ozaki and H. Shingehiro succeeded in climbing up for the first time. Y. Katoh ascended from the north ridge route by him alone. In August, Messner from the north ridge made a solo ascent. The German party made the second ascent of Xixabangma from the northeast ridge. In the autumn, an Austrian party also ascended Xixabangma. American party climbed up Muztagh Ata and skied down.

In autumn, German party failed to climb Bogda. Two American parties tried to climb Minya Konka and one of it, from the southwest ridge, retreated. The other from the northwest ridge, was forced to retreat because of the death of one member and serve injuries to two by avalanche.

-1981-

Women's A. C. team made the fourth ascent of Xixabangma. New Zealand party made the first ascent of Moramenchin. U. K. party made the first ascent of Kongur, but at the same time, Kyoto Karakoram Club team retreated because three members were lost. Defense Academy team climbed up Kongur Tobe. Kawasaki Teachers Party made the first ascent of the north peak of Muztagh Ata. Kyoto A. C. team made the first ascent of Bogda, but one of it died from falling down in a crevice. Hokkaido M. A. team attempted to climb Minya Knoka from the unclimbed east side and reached just below the summit, but gave up, because of one of them fell down and died. Seven of it fell down and died on the way. Jyoetsu A. M. team made the first ascent of Amne Machin then also.

-1982-

U. K. party attempted to climb the northeast ridge of Qomolangma, but J. Tasker and P. Boardman were missing, thus it was forced to retreat. German party made the first ascent of Zhangzi. U. K. part carried out the first ascent of the southwest wall of Xixabangma. Oita A. M. team succeeded the first ascent of Porong Ri. AACK team made the first ascent of Kang Pen Chin. J. M. A. team made the first ascent of the north ridge of Qogir without oxygen, but two of them died. Swiss party climbed up Minya Konka from the northwest ridge, but on their return, one member died. American party also climbed up the same route. Ichikawa A. C. team tried to climb it from the east side because of bad weather, and on their return, one of them died and another returned alive, who became famous as a miracle survivor.

-1983-

American party made the first ascent of the Kangshung Face of Qomolangma. Kamoshika A. C. team failed on the northwest wall of Qomolangma with the aim of an ascent in the winter season. Chinese party attempted the first ascent of Namcha Barwa, but failed and made the first ascent of Neipung peak. Italian party climbed up Qogir from the north ridge.

(1984-1988)

-1984-

Australian party carried out an ascent of Qomolangma from the Great Couloir for the first time. German party climbed up Minya Konka from the northwest ridge. Chinese party attempted to ascend Namcha Barwa, but reached only the Neipung peak again. HAJ team tried to climb Yulong Shan in Yunnan Sheng but retreated.

-1985-

Kamoshika A. C. team attempted the ascent of Qomolangma from the northwest wall in winter season, but failed. Japan — China joint expedition made the first ascent Naimonanyi. Oita A. M. team attempted to climb Nojin Kansang from south face, but failed. Qingzang Plateau Study A. C. team made the first ascent of Geladaindong. America — China joint expedition made the first ascet of Ulugh Muzutagh. HAJ team failed on the ascent of Huangguan Feng.

-1986-

Loretan and Troillet ascended Qomolangma from the northwest wall along Japanese route in alpine style and spent only 44 hours for whole round trip. HAJ team made the first ascents of three 7000 m peaks, Cho Aui, Karijian and Gyala Peri. Kobe University team made the first ascent of Kula Kangri from the west ridge. Tohoku University team carried out the first ascent of Niainqentanglha. Women's A. C. team attempted to climb Tomur, but retreated due to an avalache. Tokyo University of Agriculture team made the first ascent of 7167 m peak in Xinjiang. The joint expedition of HAJ and China made the first ascent of Xuebao Ding.

-1987-

Defense Academy team attempted to climb Qomolangma from the west ridge, but was forced to give up because of the death of one member Kamoshika A. C. team climbed up Cho Oyu and K. Takahashi dropped down to BC by a parapente. HAJ Tibet joint expedition made the first ascent of Lapche Kang from the west ridge. U. K. party gave up the first ascent of Menlungtse. Polish party made the first ascent of the west ridge of Xixabangma. Both, Shizuoka University team and a U. K. party failed on the first ascent of Huangguan Feng. Jyoetsu A. M. team attempted to climb Moirig Kawagabo, but gave up. American party made the first ascent of Yulong Shan.

-1988-

China-Nepal Japan joint expedition succeeded the south-north traverse of Qomolangma and a TV crew went together, thus the view from the summit was on the TV broadcast. A international joint team climbed up Qomolangma from a new route through the east wall. HAJ team made a series of ascents of Xixabangma and Cho Oyu. U. K. party gave up the main peak of Menlungtse and climbed up the west peak. Doshisya Univeristy team made the first ascent of Kanggardo. AACK team made the first ascent of 6903 m peak of Xingjiang. HAJ team gave up the main peak of Xinqin and made the first ascent of number 18 peak. Meiji Gakuin University team made the first ascent of Chakragil. HAJ team made the first ascent of Geyen. The Joint expedition of Kobe University and China carried out the first ascent of Chola.

(1989-1993)

-1989-

HAJ team attempted to climb the northwest wall of Qomolangma, but failed. Osaka City University team made the first ascent of Sigugag Ri. Miyagi M. A. team tried Gasherbrum I from the east ridge, but retreated. Kyoto Karakoram Club team carried out the first ascent from the north ridge of Kongur. Rissyo University team made the ascent of Ulugh Muztagh. Sendai First High School team made the first ascent of Cholpanglik Muztagh. HAJ team failed on the ascent of Xianre Ri in Sichuan.

-1990-

W. Kurtyka, Loretan and Troillet made the first ascent of Cho Oyu from the southwest wall in alpine style and also made the first ascent of the central peak of Xixabangma from the southwest wall. Nagano M. A. and China joint expedition made the first ascent of Zangser Kangri. Yokohama City M. A. team carried the first ascent of the lower part of the northwest wall of Qogir and reached the summit through the upper Japanese route. Yokohama City University team tried Tomur, but was forced to retreat because two members were missing in an avalanche. Tochigi High School M. A. team made the first ascent of Mushu Muztagh. JAC Tokai team carried out the first ascent of Xuelizn in Xinjiang.

-1991-

M. Nukita and J. Futakami climbed up Qomolangma from the north ridge, but the latter died from falling down just below the summit. Silver Turtle team, whose members were in their fifties, made the ascent of Cho Oyu. Nagano M. A. and China joint expedition attempted to ascend Xixabangma, but was forced to retreat owing to two Japanese members' dyeing in an avalanche. JAC and China joint expedition did not make the first ascent of Namcha Barwa because one member died in an avalanche. AACK and China joint expedition failed to climb Moirig Kawagabo, because 17 members were missing in an avalanche.

-1992-

Sangakudoshikai and Kazakhstan joint expedition attempted to climb the northeast ridge of Qomolangma, but gave up because of one member's death. JAC and China joint expedition made the first ascent of Namcha Barwa. Slovenian party made the first ascent of Menlungtse in alpine style. HAJ team tried the first ascent of Huangguan Feng, but was forced to retreat because one member died in an avalanche. HAJ team made the first ascent of Xinqin in Qinghai. Hiroshima A. C. team made the first ascent of Siguniang from the south wall.

-1993-

K. Wielicki, a Polish climber, carried out the first ascent of the south wall of Xixabangma. Three climbers, Spanish and French, ascended the southwest wall of Xixabangma crossing the border from the col of the Lantang Valley. Rikkyo University team climbed up Chomo Lonzo from Chinese side for the first time. Korea party ascended Qomolangma from the north ridge and traversed to the Nepal side. JAC Tokai team made the first ascent of Huangguan Feng.

(1994-1998)

Y.Yamanoi made the first ascent of the southwest wall of Cho Oyu solo in alpine style. The female pair of T. Yamanoi and Y. Endoh also ascended the southwest wall of Cho Oyu in alpine style. HAJ team failed to climb Loinbo Kangri. Nagano M. A. gave up on Chy Chy Che in Tibet. Austrian party carried out the first ascent of Sipande in Xingjiang. Gifu University team made the first ascents of Chirin and Chang Tok II. Setouchi Rouzan team made the first ascent of Kaxkar in Xingjiang. HAJ team gave up the ascent of Minya Konka from the east side because four members were missing in an avalanche.

-1995-

Nihon University team climbed up the northeast ridge of Qomolangma. JAC team made the first ascent of the lower part of the east ridge of Makalu and then climbed on the normal route. Tochigi High School M. A. team carried out the first ascent of Nojin Kansang from the west side. Nakatsugawa Rouzan team made the first ascent of southeast peak of Nianqentanglha. JAC Youth Division carried out the first ascent of an unnamed peak on the south of Muztagh Ata. Yamagata M. A. team climbed up Gishilik Tag in Kunlun.

-1996-

Nagano M. A. and China joint expedition made the first ascent of Chomolhari from Chinese side. Korea and China joint expedition made the first ascent of a series of 7000 m peaks, Qungmoganze and Loinbo Kangri. Rouzan team made the first ascent of Khan Yailik. AACK and China joint expedition failed on Moirig Kawagabo.

-1997-

Y. Yamanoi and his team tried to climb the east wall and north ridge of Gaurisankar, but gave up. HAJ and China joint expedition attempted to climb Kula Kangri II, but failed. Rouzan team made the first ascent of Rism. Chuoh university team made the second ascent of Qungmoganze. Sapporo A. C. team climbed up Minya Konka from the east side through the northwest ridge.

-1998-

JAC Fukuoka team ascended Naimananyi from the west side. Ehime University team made the second ascent of the main peak of Kang Pen Chin and the first ascent of the north peak. HAJ made the first ascent of the west ridge of Noijin Kangsang. Kyoto M. A. team failed to climb the peak of Lapche Kang. JAC team reconnoitered Gankar Punzun. HAJ team reconnoitered Kabang. Doshisya University team gave the climb to Ronlai Kangri owing to an avalanche. Rikkyou University team explored Gasherbrum II. HAJ team tried to climb Ramo She, but failed.

The summary of Chinese expeditions

Modern mountaineering in China began with the offer from the former Soviet Union to climb Muztagh Ata together in 1954.

In 1955, to accept it, Xu Jing and other three who were the first Chinese climbing members, were dispatched to a mountaineering school in Gruziato. They trained and climbed up Tuanjin Feng in Pamir (6673 m) and Oktyabr'skil (6780 m).

In 1956, two coaches were sent to China from the Soviet Union, and 31 Chinese climbed Taibaishan (3767 m). 24 members among them were sent to Caucasus and Shi Zhanchun and other eleven made the ascent of El'brus (5671 m). And according to plan, the joint expedition of China and the Soviet Union to ascend Muztagh Ata (7546 m) was organized and on 31 July, 12 members succeeded. It was the first ascent of 7000 m peak by Chinese. After that they gained confidence, several Chinese members among them attempted to climb Kongur Tobe. Chen Rongchang and another member ascended it.

In 1957, expedition to Minya Konka by a Chinese party only was performed. On 13 June, Shin Zhanchun and 6 members made the ascent from the northwest ridge, but on their return, three died from falling down.

In 1958, for training for the joint expedition with the former Soviet Union to climb Qomolangma, Chinese climbers climbed Jingtie Shan (5100 m) and Qiyi Bingchuan Feng (5120 m) in Gensu Sheng, and then were sent to the Pamir mountains and 17 climbed Leinina (7134 m). Among this team, three women joined for the first time, who could not reach the summit, but reached 6900 m. On the autumn, 13 members climbed Soroku Shan (6305 m) in Qinghai.

In 1959, Chinese party sent the resources for the exploration of Qomolangma to BC and waited for the Soviet party. However, because of the disturbance in Tibet, they had to give up. Thus, the Chinese party attempted to climb Muztagh Ata by themselves, and 32 members, including 8 women, made the ascent. Before this, in the winter of this year, the Chinese climbers stayed in a camp at Niainqentanglha (6177 m) and 72 members reached the summit. And 46 climbers, including 12 women, climbed Taibaishan.

Early morning on 25 May, 1960, Wang Fuzhon, Qu Yinhua and Gombu made the ascent of Qomolangma from the north ridge. Qu Yinhua took of his shoes to cross the second step because of difficulties, he was reported as "the summitter without his shoes" and "the summiter at the night", thus this ascent was suspected to be a fabrication. This big expedition was composed of 250 members to show the power of the country. In this year, Beijing Geology Institute team made the first ascent of Amne Machin II (6268 m).

In 1961, a female expedition, supported by male members was sent to Kongur Tobe, and two women, Pandu and another, and three men reached the summit, but on their return, five members, include a women, Sheirab, died in an avalanche.

In 1964, ten Chinese climbers, Xu Jing and others, made the first ascent of Xixabangma, which was the last unclimbed 8000 m peak. The four members, Shi Zhanchun and others, who were invited to the former Soviet Union in 1961, felt that the Soviet climbers were eager for this ascent.

After that, during the Cultural Revolution, climbing activities were restricted.

In 1975, mountaineering activities began again, and the first step was ascent of Qomolangma, because the Chinese ascent in 1960 was thought to be suspicious then. On 27 May, 9 members reached the summit, and Pandu became the second female summitter, next to J. Tabei, who ascended from the Nepal side.

In 1977, The ascents of Tomur, which is located near the border with the former Soviet Union, were performed by eleven climbers on 25 July and by 17 on 30^th. In this period, the relationship between China and the former Soviet Union deteriorated and this expedition was thought to be involved in the problem about the border.

After this due to the opening up of the mountains in China, Chinese mountaineering members became guides who helped foreign expeditions and guides went together as liaison officers.

In 1983 and 1984, expeditions to Namcha Barwa (7782 m), an unclimbed peak were organised, but the both attempts failed and they climbed only Neipung peak. Thus, Namcha Barwa was still unclimbed.

In 1985, to celebrate the 20^th anniversary of the Tibet autonomy formation, the expedition to Cho Oyu in Tibet was sent and 9 members ascended it. Moreover, Chinese joint expeditions made the first ascent of Naimona'nyi (7694 m) with AACK and Doshisha University teams, the first ascent of Ulugh Muztagh (6973 m) with American party and the first ascent of an unnamed peak (5850 m) with HAJ female team.

In 1986, TMA team made the first ascent of Nojin Kansang (7206 m). Chinese joint expeditions made the first ascent of Xuebao Ding (5588 m) with HAJ team and the ascent of Zhangzi (7553 m) with Nagano M. A.

In 1987, the joint expedition with HAJ team made the first ascent of Lapche Kang (7367 m) in Tibet.

In 1988, a joint expedition with Japan and Nepal was performed and the traverse of Qomolangma was made. And the joint expeditions carried out the first ascent of Chola with Kobe University team and the ascent of Vinson in Antartica with an American party.

In 1989, joint expedition with Hong Kong made the ascent of Zhangzi.

In 1990, joint expedition with America and the former Soviet team made the ascent of Qomolangma. One of the summitters was Guisan, a Tibetan woman. Tong Luu, who made the ascent of the central peak of Xixabangma (8008 m) with AACK team, was the first Han Woman summitter of a 8000 m peak. The joint expedition with Nagano M. A. made the first ascent of Zangser Kangri (6460 m).

In 1991, eleven Japanese and six Chinese of the joint expedition with AACK team, who attempted to climb Moirig Kawagabo (6740 m) in December in 1990, were missing due to an avalanche. The joint expedition with JAC team tried to climb Namcha Barwa, but failed.

In 1992, the joint expedition with JAC to Namcha Barwa made the first ascent. Moreover, the climbing of high-altitude mountains became popular among the general public in those days. For example, three climbers from Xian attempted to ascent Muztagh Ata in 1991 and 1992, and Beijing University team started to do mountaineering activities.

In 1993, a Tibetan party made a joint expedition to Qomolangma with a Taiwan party and that 12 members made the ascents of Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I in Nepal.

In 1998, the Beijing University team made the ascent of Cho Oyu and Qinghua University team attempted to climb Zhangzi.

SUMMERY

A history of mountaineering in the Chinese Himalaya.

 

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