PILGRIMAGE ROUND MEILI XUESHAN

Northwest Yunnan, 1996

TAMOTSU NAKAMURA

'THANK YOU FOR your letter of October 30th with the accompanying pictures. Congratulations on your successful circumnavigation of the Kang Karpo range. It is most interesting country. As we had bad weather most of the time I was most appreciative to see your pictures and the most of mine just show clouds. Mr. Nima is a very good man who had made the pilgrimage quite a few times and knows all the various places to stop."

Nicholas B. Clinch wrote to me as above about the journey in Yunnan-Tibet border of China.

When I published East of Himalayas (YAMA-KEI Publishers Co., Ltd.) in March, 1996, I assigned myself to the next target in Hengduan Shan. I wrote in the epilogue that I should take up the new venture with a more comprehensive theme focused on the deep gorge country and, to start with, expedite the travel on a pilgrimage round Meili Xueshan (Kang Karpo or Ka-Kar-po range) in quest for a feasible route to the sources of Irrawaddy river, crossing Salween-Irrawaddy divide.

Meili Xueshan, the local Tibetans call as Kawagubo, has long since been the religious mountain to Tibetan Buddhists although it is not so famous as Kailas in the western Tibet. Thousands of pilgrims visit the sacred mountains from the remote comers of the eastern Tibet, Qinhai, Gansu, Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. It is presumed that the first foreigners to observe this mountain massif were French Roman Catholic missionaries. They had established several quarters in Tsawarong in early 1860s. However, no investigation from a view point of mountaineering had been tried until 1913, when F. Kingdon Ward made an entry on the eastern glacier of the highest peak, Kawagubo (6740 m) of Meili Xueshan (Mystery Rivers of Tibet). After a long blank of over a half century, in 1987 Joetsu Alpine Club of Japan made an initial attempt to climb Kawagubo. In 1990-91 the joint expedition of China and Kyoto University of Japan challenged the highest peak, but they met an awful and unprecedented tragedy. Seventeen members were killed by a single avalanche. In 1996 Kyoto University returned to this mountain but without good fortune. They were defeated again because of dangerous conditions of the glacier en route. In the meantime, an American team headed by N. B. Clinch attempted the second highest peak, Pk 6509 in 1992 and 1993, but was not successful.

The pilgrimage of about 300 km round Meili Xueshan is also a part of the trade route (old tea road) connecting Yunnan and Lhasa through southeast Tibet. The foot path crosses five high passes to complete the circumnavigation. Starting at Deqen the caravan crosses the Mekong river (Lancang Jiang), goes over the Doker la (4478 m) south of the main range, descends to the Salween river (Nu jiang), ascends to the Shu la (4815 m) the northernmost part of the range and then comes back to Deqen. It takes 10-13 days on foot. As far as I know only two parties of foreigners undertook the full circuit of the pilgrimage, after K. Ward had done it in 1911-13. They were parties ofN. B. Clinch in 1993 and a pair of Spanish and French in 1995. Therefore mine is the fourth record as a foreigner. It is noted that in the early 20th Century M. Bacot, F. M. Bailey, Edger and A. D. Neel had entered into Tsawarong and traced a part of the pilgrimage.

The motive that forced me to launch this plan was not only an interest in the folklore, to walk together with Tibetan pilgrims, but the chief attraction was to have a glimpse of the hidden and untrodden mountains in the deep gorge country. There remain the wide areas yet unexplored. The western side of Meili Xueshan and, further northwestwards, unmapped snow peaks of Hengduan Shah were so alluring that I was tempted to unveil them even if the outcome would not be to a complete satisfaction. In addition it was considered worthwhile to see the present situation of Tsawarong district and look over the geopolitical history of the troubled border between China and Tibet.

However, there were two difficulties to realise the plan. I had no other information on the region than those furnished by N. B. Clinch. The maps to cover the entire route of the pilgrimage in my hand were only ONC and TPC of U.S. Defence Mapping Agency, although I acquired two maps made by the Chinese authority of Yunnan Province; one is 1/225,000 for Gongshan Pref. and 1/400,000 for Deqen Pref. No Chinese maps to cover Tibetan side of the pilgrimage were available.

On 2 October 1996, I arrived in Kunmin via Hong Kong. The next morning I took a plane to Lijiang and proceeded to Zhongdian the same day. The air service having been opened in 1995 saves one day in approaching Deqen from Kunmin. Upon arrival at Deqen on 4 October, I commenced discussions with Travel Development Co. of Deqen Prefecture in order to decide a detailed itinerary of 13 days trekking, and then paid a courtesy call to Ci Cheng, Chief of Prefectural Government of Deqen. Ci Cheng had visited Japan in the summer of 1996 as a member of a Chinese delegation to conclude an agreement with the Kyoto University. They explained the route of 13 days circumnavigation, giving the names of each spot where our caravan had to pass and stop. It was hardly possible, however, for me to identify the places on the map since they had no maps nor were accustomed to read maps. The other problem was that the names of places they quoted were mostly different from those which K. Ward, F. M. Bailey and A. D. Neel had taken note of. Consequently throughout the trek, I had to check at some intervals the point where I stood putting a compass on the TPC and mark my position on the map. Eventually I could elaborate an exact route map of the pilgrimage.

On 6 October in the rain we left Deqen by a car down the Mekong river for Yangtsa. The monsoon season was not over yet. Members of our party were five in total, and five mules were employed. Lu Idon was my agent in Kunmin since 1993 and an interpreter as well. Chen was a guide of Meili Xueshan Travel Co. Nima Tsuli, a farmer living in Yangtsa led our group as leader. He had accompanied N. B. Clinch in 1993. Ms. Xu-in joined as a cook. Lu is Han but all of the other four were Tibetans.

Crossing a suspension bridge over the Mekong river at Yangtsa we took the first steps forward on the pilgrimage early afternoon. All the baggages were loaded on four mules and I rode on the mule allocated to me. The footpath going steeply up a spur and mountain side took us to a small village of Yongju, where we spent a night at the house of Nima's relative. On the way we soon overtook two groups of pilgrims coming from Chamdo and Zogang of the eastern Tibet.

On 7 October, the weather was bad in the morning. Baimang Xueshan (Paima Shah) in Yangtze-Mekong Divide sometimes came into view in heavy drizzles sailing up the Mekong valley. The path followed the southern side of the ridge looking down to a village of Yongxi, formerly called Londre, to the left. The name of Londre had been referred to by many of the explorers. However nobody uses the name nowadays. Before long the path to the Doker la went along a stream in the primeval forest. It became very hard to go through the stream because of overflowing water, mud and irregular rocks. Mules were gasping and struggling. In late afternoon the narrow valley opened suddenly and we reached a small pasture land of Yongxitong, where we stayed at a herdsman's hut.

On 8 October we departed for the Deken la, 'white stone pass", that was the first highlight of our journey. As we progressed, the blue sky spread out over the open valley. Autumn leaves had a beautiful contrast. The path left the main valley and climbing steeply up a high granite wall in short zigzags, entered in a broad hanging valley which led to the pass. Several bands of the pilgrims were ascending towards the holy mountain in a row, like a procession of ants. That scenery made me feel purified as if I had been a devout Buddhist. On the top of the pass, following the Tibetans I walked three times around a Qirm with many prayers" flags fluttering in the wind. We could not get a view of the snow peaks from the pass as it was hindered by spurs on the ridges. In the opposite side of the pass there was also a broad hanging valley, at the bottom of which a group of seven girls and two boys, all teenagers, were having lunch. They had left Chamdo one month ago and had come on foot all the way carrying every personal belonging with them. Their meals were extremely simple, only a bowl of tsampa and tea. Butter was already finished. However they were very tough, strong and hospitable.

t the pilgrims believe they would be ensured once they had went on this pilgrimage.

1. They would be promised a happy rebirth in the abode of Chennezigs (the western land of bliss).
2. They would be recognised to have read all the Buddhist scriptures that a priest of high virtue read in his life.
3. Theywould be also recognised to have performed pilgrimages to all the monasteries in Tibet.

Beyond the Doker la located on the Mekong-Salween divide to the west we entered the territory of Tsawarong district of Tibet. According to the present administration of China, Tsawarong is a sub-prefecture of Zayul prefecture. Tsawarong was warm and the most fertile and the most thickly populated land of Tibet. The path from the Doker la went down along a stream. In the back ground sharp 5000 m peaks with snow and rocks came into sight. As we proceeded down the valley, autumn leaves were composing a nice harmony with splashing cascades. Bamboo forest in the vicinity told us that we had descended to the subtropical zone in a few hours. Many of the pilgrims cut bamboos and carried them back to their home. We camped near a stream.

The following morning I was lucky to take pictures of two splendid snow peaks of 6180 m and 5775 m on the western ridge of the main summit of Kawagubo (6740 m). Not only these two peaks, but all other snow peaks which I could observe throughout the trek were unclimbed. Many of them were unexplored. This would be an exciting fact to mountaineers having interest in the southwest frontier of China. On 10 October we crossed the Lontong la (3580 m) and went down to the village of Aben together with a large group of some 80 pilgrims and 25 mules. Men and women were twirling prayer drums and even small children were trudging bravely along with parents. They had started from Aben and were about to compete the trip in 11 days. We stayed at a farmer's house in Aben. Home made white spirit made from barley was excellent and quite acceptable.

I would say that this pilgrimage route was a road of Matsutake mushroom too. Plenty of Matsutake grown near quercus trees in the mountains. Matsutake gathered by farmers were processed with salt and shipped to Deqen via the Doker la or Shu la, and then were exported to Japan. Matsutake harvest was contributing to increment of the earnings of the farmers in the remotest region of China, as a unit price of Matsutake was much higher than that of other agricultural products.

On 11 October the weather was fine. Tracing the path through the gorge with hundred meters high cliffs on both sides, we reached the confluence of the Salween river and its tributary, the Lhakang ra river. The point was called as 'La - kor - ah" by K. Ward and as 'Lhakang-ra" by A. D. Neel. Now it is called as Chunanico. I stood on the left bank of Salween river and recollected my journey to Gongshan through the Salween canyon in 1991. It rained heavily in 1996. A brown coloured rapid was violently rushing with tremendously large quantity of water. It was very hot on the river bank and the valley was arid and dreary with less vegetation. There was a small monastery at the confluence where we found an old peasant. He had left Batang of Sichuan with a group of his friends on pilgrimage. An illness had suddenly deprived him of his strength and he was unable to walk and had to fall behind as his friends had gone ahead. Such was said to be the Tibetan custom. Our caravan marched northwards along the left bank of the Salween river. Every few kilometers where the river bends at a sharp angle, we faced and negotiated unstable stone steps cut on steep cliffs. Underneath the path a treacherous rapid was roaring. In such place Nima kept cool to lead our caravan safely. We put up our camp near a hot spring.

On 12 October, we proceeded further northwards on the arid river bank where prickly pears grew gregariously and arrived at Zhanang (1950 m) in the early afternoon. Zhanang is the centre of administration of Tsawarong sub-prefecture, and there were the offices of People's Government and Communist Party as well. The first primary school was opened in this area last year. We pitched our tents in corn fields adjacent to the villagers" water supply point. This village had been written as 'Chia-na or Trana' by K. Ward, 'Trana" by F. M. Bailey and 'Thana' by A. D. Neel. Looking around to the west from our camp, Pk 6509 m the second highest peak of Meili Xueshan massif, rose with its magnificent west buttress of pure white fluted ice. It deeply impressed me as I might be the first mountaineer to see beyond the V-shaped valley. More than 30 villagers from child to an old man came to our camp and didn't leave till late in the night. They were friendly and full of curiosity. Children were quite free from care. K. Ward had noted this observations on Tsawarong people that they had been hospitable, of good nature and disciplined. He had also emphasised that women were pretty. In Zhanang, taking advantages of welcome by the villagers, I tried to collect as much information as I could from a senior person as to the following subject.

1. There was a possible route to Zayul district of the upper Lohit river beyond the Salween - Irrawaddy divide and the sources of the Irrawaddy river.
2. Air crashes of the Allied Air Force in the Humps (Hengduan Shan) had taken place during World War II. Their remains were still there.
3. Christianity was prevalent among Tibetans in the Salween river basin.

In the early morning of 13 October a mighty snow peak soaring in the southernmost point of the Salween-Irrawaddy divide appeared. Presumably this mountain would be Ke-ni-chun-pu which K. Ward wrote in his book (The Land of the Blue Poppy). He assumed this was 6100 m high. However, the recent survey by the Gongshan Prefecture had revealed the height to be only 5128 m. The mountain was called Kawakabu by the local Tibetans. The pilgrim path left the Salween river at Zhanang and went up northwards to the Tondu la (3340 m) and down to the Wi chu (or Yu chu), a tributary of the Salween river. We were now entering into the heart of the deep gorge country. Descending from the pass for a while, I could look down on the turquoise stream of the Wi chu meandering through the inspiring narrow gorge. The S-bend torrent of Wichu represents a peculiar topographical deformation of Hengduan Shan (east of Himalaya). On 4 October we stayed at a monastery in Gebu (2330 m), where we were again received by many villagers and their welcome dance lasted till late.

15 October, was the day of the second highlight. We ascended about 1800 m straight to the Gebu la (4100 m) and went down again to the Wi chu. The Gebu la was the best lookout point to have a wide view of both, the Salween-Irrawaddy divide and Salween/Wi chu-Mekong divide over the S-bend valley of the Wi chu. To the northwest, we could confirm two outstanding snow peaks exceeding 6000 m that were located in the southern part of Baxoila Lin range. One was 6146 m peak (TPC indicates 20,735 ft) and the other was 6005 m peak (TPC indicates 19,386 ft). To the north we could have in sight the twin pyramids of a glittering snow peaks that K. Ward had noted as Orbor.' This would be the highest peak 6324 m (TPC indicates 20,729 ft) of Damyon massif of the Mekong-Wi chu divide in the Tanian Taweng Shan range. To the southeast, the crystal dome of Pk 6509 m towered and demonstrated its inaccessible north face. To the east and further to the northeast, the Shula (4815 m) and 5000 m peaks with rock pinnacles and small dead glaciers were extending till Damyon.

17 October was the final leg of our trek to the Shula and beyond, down to the Mekong valley. The sufficient rest that we had taken in the previous day injected much energy in all members and mules. We left a tiny village of Late for the Shu la in full strides. The path ascended steeply up the ridge covered with firs and quercus trees. Lu and Chen met a large bear running away. Shortly later a prominent sugarloaf peak of 5775 m on the western ridge of Kawagubo came into view and then the massive Pk 6509 m was observed gradually over the ridge to the left. The following is a summary of the American attempt for Pk 6509 m in September - October 1993, from the American Alpine Journal 1994.

'The climbing party crossed the Shu la into Tibet and set up base camp under the west ridge. Camp III was placed at 5,300 meters on the ridge after climbing, mostly on loose slate and shale, up a second rock buttress. However the summit assault was given up at 6,100 meters by avalanche conditions and a small snow wall with an overhanging cornice that blocked the ridge."

Standing on the Shu la at 3:00 p.m. I sang together with Chen 'Airasaw.." (God bless you! I could come to the Shu - la...) The neighbouring views surrounding the Shu la were of red- brown colour and looked like an inorganic world. The weather changed suddenly and it began to snow but in few minutes we were again in the sunshine. To the east beyond the Mekong valley, arid and desolate 5-6000 m peaks rose like gigantic tombs of limestone, under gloomy clouds, surging as foam-crested waves. We hurried on our way down to the final goal, the village of Meilixi on the right bank of the Mekong river, where we were picked up and transported to Deqen by car on 18 October.

SUMMARY

A trek on the pilgrim route around Meili Xueshan, China, by a Japanese party in October 1996.

 

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