A PEAK BAGGER'S GUIDE TO THE EASTERN KISHTWAR

A Postscript

SIMON RICHARDSON

SINCE THE ORIGINAL article was published six years ago in the Himalayan Journal it has been fascinating to sit back and watch events unfold from afar.

The most technical ascents have been on Cerro Kishtwar (6200 m). In 1991, Andy Perkins and Brendan Murphy attempted the broad rounded buttress in the centre of the NW face. Climbing capsule style in mediocre weather for 15 days they reached a point 100 m below the summit when fatigue forced them to retreat. The mountain was climbed two years later by Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad, who took a more natural line of mixed gullies further left to reach the north ridge. They climbed past the Perkins-Murphy high point and reached the summit after 5 days of very sustained and high standard mixed climbing. Their ascent provided a finish to the 1991 route, and the mountain now sports two largely independent routes.

The other major first ascent was Hagshu (6300 m). This shapely peak, which dominates the watershed with Zanskar has been the subject of numerous attempts since 1980. It was finally climbed in 1989 by a strong British team who took a good mountaineering line up the NE face. P. 6400 m at the eastern end of the range was attempted by a Scottish party in 1989 without success, but they did give it a name - Kishtwar Kailash. Not only is this the highest unclimbed peak in the range, but is also likely to be one of the hardest with no obvious route of ascent. By way of consolation, the team split into two and made first ascents of Sentinel Peak (5950 m) and Rohini Sikhar (5990 m) which stand either side of the entrance to the Chomochior nala.

Colour plates 9-10-11, Photos 14 to 20

With the majority of the major peaks now climbed, attention began to focus on new routes. Andy MacNae and J.Wilson made the second ascent of Chomochior by climbing the 1400 m gully line on the south face in a single day. From the same glacier, Carl Schaschke, Ian Mills and Neil Brown repeated Dandagoporum by a long snow and ice route up the north face. MacNae and Wilson also solved the Fritz Kolb mystery, by repeating his journey over the Muni la. They passed under the north face of Cerro Kishtwar on the Chomochior glacier and reconnoitred Kishtwar Kailash, which they described as a very challenging objective.

Some parties were not so successful. John Barry led a series of attempts on the north face of Hagshu, but success on this steep mixed route proved elusive. A strong Italian team lead by Paolo Vitali attempted the south pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in 1992, but were defeated by consistent bad weather. As a consolation, they climbed Bugjan Peak (5600 m) above the Hagshu nala. The peaks further south near Agyasol saw only limited success. An attempt on the Druid in 1992 was thwarted by a serious fall close to the summit, although Tupendo II was repeated by this team and a subsequent Italian party.

At present, activity in the area is suspended due to the current political unrest in Kashmir, although it may be possible to reach the northern peaks from Zanskar. No doubt, when events settle down in the future, there will be renewed interest in these small but magnificent mountains. Kishtwar has a unique charm which continues to attract people back, and the new wave of exploration will undoubtedly include new and old hands alike.

A brief guide to the mountains of East Kishtwar

1. Agyasol, (6200 m)

East ridge 1500 m D
R.Everett and N.Barrett (GB), 13 September 1981 From Kaban nala cross Agyasol glacier to reach col at foot of east ridge (4700 in). Easy slopes lead to 300 m high rock buttress at 5600 m. Climb this (UIAA IV and Scottish 3) and continue up long corniced ridge to east summit. (8 days total - 2 days from below rock buttress) Second ascent: S.Richardson and M.Harrop (GB), 21 September 1981
References: AAJ 1982 (Wilkinson), HJ 39 (Richardson)

2. Barnaj II, (6170 m) South ridge

N.Kubo and party (Jap), 14 June 1977
From Barnaj nala gain upper glacier below west face via rock shelf. 200 m ice couloir on south face gives access to ice ramp and south ridge. (2 days)
Second ascent: P.Nunn and J.Yates (GB) 1979
Third ascent: Japanese party 1980
Reference: AAJ 1978 (Kubo)

3. Blade Peak, (5650 m)

Northwest ridge 200 m D-
L.Griffin (GB), September 1978
Lies on the main watershed between the Barnaj and Chiring nalas, to the south of Problem peak. Reach the watershed via the east ridge of Problem peak, then traverse across the south face. The northwest ridge is at first a snow arete followed by excellent with a final difficult knife-edge ridge.
References: AAJ 1979 (Griffin), Climber and Rambler 1979 (Griffin)

4. Bugjan Peak, (5600 m)

Southwest face 900 m
P.Vitali, P.Tentori, S.Brambati and A.Camati (I), 1992 The small peak facing Kishtwar Shivling across the Haptal nala. FromBugj an gain the glacier at the foot of the southwest face and climb it (relatively straightforward - ice up to 60 degrees) to the summit (2 days)
Reference: Revista della Montagna, April 1993 (Vitali)

5. Cerro Kishtwar, (6200 m)

Northwest face and north ridge 1300 m ED+
M.Fowler and S.Sustad (GB), 20 September 1993 A sustained and precarious mixed climb. Approach from Bujwas and Haptal glacier to foot of face. Take obvious right slanting ramp to deep notch on north ridge. Follow this just left of crest to reach twin summits. (5 days)
References: AJ 94 (Fowler), HJ 50 (Fowler), Mountain Review 5 (Fowler), Vertical Pleasure, (Fowler), AAJ 94 (Fowler)

Northwest face direct 1300 m B.Murphy and A.Perkins (GB), 17 October 1991 Snow slopes and left-slanting mixed ramp lead to smooth slabs below major comer system in centre of the face. Climb this (very sustained), then trend left to junction with north ridge 100 m below summit. (A3 and Scottish 6 -28 pitches). (17 days to junction with north ridge) References: Mountain Review 5 (Perkins). AAJ 92 (MacNae)

6. Chiring, (6100 m)

South ridge 800 m
A.Dunhill and R.Brooks (GB), 1987
From Hagshu glacier climb gully in southeast face, avoid 200 m rock wall on right, and continue up steep ice to south ridge.

7. Chomochior, (6322 m)

West ridge 1400 m TD
R.Everett and S.Richardson (GB), 9 September 1988 Approach from Bujwas and Haptal glacier to gain narrow ice-couloir on left side of the face. Climb couloir for 700 m (Scottish 4), followed by mixed climbing on west ridge (UIAA IV and Scottish +). 60 pitches in total. (5days) References: AJ 1989/90 (Everett), AAJ 1989 (Richardson), HJ 45 (Richardson)

South couloir 1400 m D+
A.MacNae and J.Wilson (GB), August 1991
From Bujwas gain upper Haptal glacier and reach couloir on right side of south face. Climb rock entry pitch (UK 4b) to enter 1100 m ice couloir (up to 60 degrees). Continue up southeast ridge and move diagonally right across southeast face to summit. (1 day)

8. Dandagopurum, (6230 m)

South face 1500m D+
E.Farmer and R.Reid (GB), 31 August 1986
From the Dharlang nala gain a high camp at 4875 m below glacier on south face. Climb easily up the glacier and take an icefall leading onto the south face.
Ice and snow lead to 300 m summit icefield (55 degrees).
(2 days from high camp)
Reference: AAJ 1987 (Farmer); HJ 44 (Reid and Fanner)

North face 2000 m
C.Schaschke, I.Mills and N.Brown (GB), 25 July 1989 From the head of the Haptal glacier, climb an exposed ramp of snow and ice across the north face until 600 m below the summit. Ascend a 150 m ice face to reach the corniced east ridge (Scottish 2). (6 days)
Reference: AAJ 1990 (Schaschke), HJ 46 (Schaschke)

9. Hagshu Peak, (6330 m)

Northeast face 1200 m TD P.Booth, K.Hopper and M.Holliday (GB), 16 September 1989
A magnificent peak attempted many times before its first ascent. Approach from Abring in Zanskar to base camp below Hagshu glacier. Traverse under the north face and climb steep glacier system to reach northeast face. Climb snow-ice slope (55 degrees) to steep exit (Scottish 4) on to summit ridge. (3 days)
References: AAJ 1990 (Beadle), Mountain 133 (Hopper), Climber and Hillwalker May 1990 (Booth /Holliday)

10. Kalidahar Spire, (5600 m)

North ridge 400 m (From col)
C.Anker and K.Gheen (USA), 11 September 1988
From Dharlang nala climb snow couloir to col at foot of north ridge. Follow 15 pitch crack-line to summit (VI, 5.10, A3). (9 days)
Reference: AAJ 1989 (Hornby); HJ 45 (Richardson)

11. Kalidahar Main Peak, (5900 m)

West ridge 1000 m
C.Schaschke and Jeff Knight (GB), 9 September 1988 Gain west ridge by steep icefall (Scottish 4), and continue more easily to the summit (Scottish 2).
Second ascent: C. Anker and K.Gheen (USA), 20-26 September 1988. Descended south side of peak.
Reference: AAJ 1989 (Hornby), HJ 46 (Schaschke)

12. Khogaya Dost, (5650 m)

West face 1000 m PD
D.Hillebrandt and C.Pounds (GB), 16 September 1980
Approach from Hagshu nala via awkward icefall. Mainly snow and ice with one small rockstep. (3 days)

13. Kishtwar Shivling, (6040 m)

North face 1500 m
D.Renshaw and S.Venables (GB), 10 September 1983
A superb face climb with very varied climbing. From Sumcham climb the spur to left of glacier below face to camp at 4500 m. Ice-cliffs and snow arete lead to mixed ice and rock face. Climbed this on the left (65 degrees then UIAA VI) to corniced summit ridge. Traverse on north side (70 degrees) to summit. (5 days)
References: HJ 40 (Venables), AJ 1984 (Venables), AAJ 1984 (Venables), Painted Mountains, 1986 (Venables), Himalaya Alpine-Style, 1996 (Venables)

14. Maguclonne, (5750 m)

Northwest face 1000 m AD+
P.Bartlett and L.Griffin (GB), August 1978
The peak immediately southwest of Barnaj III. From a little beyond the snout of the Lower Barnaj gain the snow basin to the east by either climbing up directly (serac danger) or taking a more indirect route to the right. Technically straightforward snow/ice slopes with some mixed climbing lead to the summit.
References: AAJ 1979 (Griffin), Climber and Rambler 1979 (Griffin)

15. P. 5130 m

M.Uematsu and T.Hashimota (Jap), 13 October 1977 Lies on the divide between the Barnaj and Bhazum nalas.
Reference: AAJ 1978 (Kaneka)

16. P. 5550 m

South ridge 200 m F
L.Griffin (GB), September 1978
This large spire of poor rock lies on the Barnaj-Chiring watershed between Problem and Blade Peaks. Climb the easy south ridge.
References: AAJ 1979 (Griffin), Climber and Rambler 1979 (Griffin)

17. Problem Peak, (5650 m)

East ridge 1200 m AD
L.Griffin (GB), September 1978
Lies on the watershed between the Barnaj and Chiring nalas.
From Chiring valley, climb the long east ridge almost directly to the summit. The final 200 m are the crux. Rock then mixed near the summit.
References: AAJ 1979 (Griffin), Climber and Rambler 1979 (Griffin)

18. Rohini Shikhar, (5990 m)

Southwest face 2200m D+
G.Little and D.Saddler (GB), 7 September 1989
The second main peak on the east side of the junction between the Dharlang nala and Chomochior glacier. From below the glacier climb the east flank of the valley (rock pitches up to UK 4b) to reach the foot of the right-hand of two curving couloirs cutting through the face. Climb the couloir, crossing two rock barriers (Scottish 3) to reach the summit ridge.
Follow this past several towers to the summit. (2 days)
References: AAJ 1990 (Little), High April 1990 (Little)

19. Sentinel Peak, (5950 m)

East face 1100m AD
R.Reid and R.Webb (GB), 10 September 1989
The snow-ice peak on the west side of the junction between the Dharlang nala and Chomochior glacier. A straightforward snow-ice climb with some objective danger. From the Chomochior nala climb a narrow snow couloir for 800 m to a bivouac at 4875 m. Break through the rock headwall above via a narrow gully to reach the upper snow slopes.
Reference: AAJ 1990 (Little)

20. Spire Peak, (5000 m)

East Diedre 800 m D+
S.Richardson and N.Barrett (GB), 26 September 1981
The first prominent summit on the long south ridge of Mardi Phabrang. From the Kaban nala climb scree to the base of the diedre to reach ledges at two-thirds height. Traverse left and follow the south ridge to the top. (2 days) Descent: Descend south ridge then abseil steep chimney on west face below south face of Mardi Phabrang.
References: AAJ 1982 (Wilkinson), HJ 39 (Richardson)

21. Tupendo II, (5600 m)

South ridge 1000 m PD
S.Richardson (GB), 12 September 1984
One of the easiest peaks in the area and a minor classic. From the Kaban nala, cross the Agyasol glacier and ascend crevassed slopes rock rognon at 4600 m. Continue up snow slopes to col between Tupendo I and II, and follow broad south ridge to summit. (2 days)
Second ascent: J.Bamber (UK) and partner, September 1992 Third ascent: L.Meciani, G.Rosti and L.Crepaldi (I) 1992
Reference: AAJ 1985 (Richardson)

Notes:

Routes descended by route of ascent unless noted otherwise. Date indicates summit day.
Total time to ascend route from base camp noted where known.

Acknowledgements:

The author wishes to thank Carl Schaschke, Mick Fowler, Lindsay Griffin, Dave Hillebrandt, Max Holliday, Graham Little, Andy MacNae, Andy Perkins, Bob Reid, and Stephen Venables for their assistance in compiling this article.

General References :

1. Himalayan Journal, Vol. 45 (Richardson) : Old article of the same name by Simon Richardson. Contains details of various peaks listed above.
2. Himalayan Journal, Vol. XIV , (F. Kolb), 'Third Choice. Adventures in the Padar region.'
3. Exploring the Hidden Himalaya, (Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia) : Contains some details on ascents in Kishtwar and photographs.

Summary

An update of climbs in the Kishtwar region, Kashmir.The first article appeared in Himalayan Journal, Vol. 45, p. 90

 

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