EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. CONFESSIONS OF A PLANT - ADDICT
2. FIRST ASCENT OF LABUCHE KANG II
3. KIRAT CHULI, 1995
4. THE TINCHENKHANG EXPEDITION
5. CHOLATSE NORTH FACE: FIRST ASCENT
6. NUPTSE EAST I, 1995
7. DORJE LAKHPA EXPEDITION
8. PATHIBHARA PEAK, 1996
9. SHEY SHIKHAR
10. FIVE ON PANCH CHULI
11. CHANGABANG NORTH FACE
12. THE HIDDEN JEWEL OF GARHWAL
13. DHARAMSURA, 1996
14. THE SHAH NALA
15. CLIMBING KANGLA TARBO II
16. FIRST ASCENT OF TANAK
17. SHAKHAUR, 1996
18. BUNI ZOM, 1995
19. HIMALAYAN GLACIERS AND CLIMATE CHANGE CONCERNS*
20. THE INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF MOUNTAINEERING LITERATURE
21. SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL FOR GOD

 

 

 

NO, I DIDN'T go up this great and mysterious mountain, the easternmost high peak in the Himalaya, first climbed as recently as 1992 (H. J. Vol. 50, p. 79); but I did get a good view of it in June of this year. As my climbing powers, such as they were, diminish with advancing age, my interests have turned more and more to the mountain flora, and I became fascinated with the Namcha Barwa region of southeast Tibet when I read the book The Riddle of the Tscmgpo Gorges (1926) by the great plant-hunter Frank Kingdon-Ward. The riddle, of course, was the legend that there must be a huge waterfall somewhere in the deep impenetrable gorge far below Namcha Barwa, where the Yarlung Tsangpo river leaves the high Tibetan plateau and, making a great loop around the mountain, plunges 3000 m to become the Brahmaputra in the plains of Assam; but it was chapter headings such as 'In the Rhododendron Fairyland" and 'The Paradise of Primulas" that fuelled my urge to go there myself one day. I found out that in recent years botanists and plant-lovers from Britain had indeed been hoping to revisit this fabled region, and - after at least one false start permission was eventually obtained from the Chinese authorities in 1995; I was fortunate to be a member of the second UK party which went out in May and June 1996. Our leaders were David Burlinson of Exodus and Kenneth Cox who together with his father Peter who also came along is a leading expert on the world's rhododendrons.

Our main aim was, not to penetrate into the gorge, but to cross the famous Doshong la, a pass connecting the Kongpo and Pemakö regions of Tibet, praised by Kingdon-Ward for its abundant flora - and reviled for its perpetually evil weather. We travelled by air via Kathmandu to Gongkar airport, where our land- cruisers awaited us. As we drove east on rough roads across the barren plateau, following the Tsangpo river, the landscape gradually turned green, trees and cultivated fields appeared, and after two and a half days we established camp in a forest clearing below the Doshong la, above the village of Pe, amidst masses of Primula chungensis and brilliant yellow Rhododendron wardii (appropriately named). Next day we plodded some way up towards the pass which was under deep, soft snow. We were declared fit and competent enough to attempt the crossing (well, we had brought our ice axes, as instructed), and a day later we managed to do it, in murky weather. Down on the other side the rain was relentless; that meant masses of new snow on the pass, and it was a great effort, three days later, to return over the pass again. Without a young Tibetan guide to chaperone and encourage me, I wouldn’t have managed it, and I still wonder what would have happened to me if I had got stuck down there on the far side - we had no permission to travel further south, and no provisions either. Fortunately I shall never know. Anyway, regardless of the rain, we did some botanising before our return and were delighted to find, amongst many treasures, Kingdon-Ward’s fabled ‘daffodil primula’, Primula falcifolia, endemic to the Doshong la.

Now the weather relented and we went on to explore the Rong chu valley, green and beautiful, then eastwards along the Po Tsangpo river into the region of Pome where we camped above the river at Showa and trekked up through magnificent unspoilt forest towards the Dokar la, our camps on the way dominated by a glittering Himalayan peak, Jhulong - surely unclimbed, like many others in this remote part of the world. Omphalogramma tibeticum was spotted here, amongst other beauties. Later we returned to the Rong chu and visited Tumbatse, the village where Kingdon-Ward had established his headquarters many years ago; we were happy to find that it has retained its character. Here we were guests in the house of a gracious old lady, and I had my first taste of butter tea; it was not nearly as bad as some descriptions will have it. A final long walk on a beautiful day took us over the Temo la; here we saw the dark red ladies’ slipper orchid Cypripedium tibeticum, the lovely Primula cawdoriana and blue poppies (Meconopsis betonicifolia) growing by a stream in the forest; and from the top of the pass Namcha Barwa displayed itself as a fearsome-looking pyramid. Perhaps the most exciting plant of all, seen on high passes at the beginning and end of the trip, was a soft hairy cushion covered with little forgetme- not flowers of intense blue - Chionocharis hookeri.

A tribute is due, finally, to the local staff, who came from Nepal, Tibet and China - they were indefatigable in looking after our welfare, and the cook produced meals of amazing variety, including birthday cakes when required. Kingdon-Ward spoke the truth. This remote corner of the Himalaya, with its wealth of rare and wonderful plants, its imposing mountains and its gentle people who are preserving their customs and religion under difficult circumstances, left deep and enduring impressions. Will I have to wait for my next incarnation before I return?

Summary : A botanical trek to the Namcha Barwa region of southeast Tibet, in May/June 1996.

 

 

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THE FIRST ASCENT of Labuche Kang II (7072 m) in Tibet, was achieved by a Swiss Alpine Club expedition in spring 1995. All ten members of the expedition could successfully reach the summit.

The Labuche Kang area, where this expedition was held, is a still widely unexplored Tibetan region located northwest of Everest, halfway between Cho Oyu (8201 m) and Shisha Pangma (8012 m). Among the main summits of the area, only the highest point, Labuche Kang I (7365 m) had been climbed previously, in 1987, by a strong Chinese-Japanese team led by Yamamori.

The newly climbed summit is the attractive and well individualised summit reaching 7072 m and located few kilometres west from the main summit. We call it Labuche Kang II. A sole previous tentative attempt by an Italian team in 1992 was unsuccessful.

The expedition reached the summit in three consecutive groups: on 30 April 1995, Christian Meillard, Thierry Bionda and André Müller reached the top; Simon Perritaz, André Geiser and Pierre Robert followed on 2 May; finally, Dominique Gouzi, Carole Milz, Heinz Hügli and Doris Lüscher succeeded on 5 May.

The route to Labuche Kang II starts from Tingri, a Tibetan village located on the trans Himalayan road linking Kathmandu with Lhasa. A dirt road brings the jeeps to Langgolo, a small village located at 4500 m, at the end of the road. From this village, a long one-day trek leads to base camp (BC), at 5300 m.

Two high altitude camps, C1 and C2 were necessary for the ascent.

From BC, the route leads south to a valley filled with lake Lama and onto the glacier which falls in it. The glacier fall forms a steep wall, about 400 m high, with impressive seracs. We install C1 above the fall, (5750 m). This first stage is about nine kilometres long. Note that in spring, the lake is still frozen and it can be crossed right in the middle along a much shorter route than the alternative route along the lake shore.

From C2, the route climbed up the long glacier which descended from the pass which separated Labuche Kang I and Labuche Kang II. The place selected for C2 was at (6300 m). This second stage, 7 kilometres long, was on the glacier. The ascent was made difficult by crevasses and snow: In the lower part of the glacier, the crevasses were numerous and dangerous, because they were hidden by only a thin snow layer. In its upper part, the track was in deep soft snow.

From C2, the route to the summit followed the east ridge of Labuche Kang II. This steep ridge led directly to the main summit. It was mainly ice-covered and had numerous seracs. A secure and interesting line of ascent was found on the right side of the ridge. Conspicuous landmarks of the route were a difficult bergschrund, two obvious and long icefields, a funnel-shaped couloir, and finally snow-covered slopes leading to the top. The overall slope was about 55 degrees. In several days the first group opened a route and installed about 800 m of fixed ropes. Once the route was equipped, the summit could be reached from C2 in one day. Three groups climbed the route with a few days interval and all could reach the summit.

With this first ascent of Labuche Kang II, climbed successfully by all expedition members and without the help of high altitude porters, the Swiss Alpine Club expedition realised an original and high-standard ascent in a still widely unexplored region of Tibet. It followed the principle, already applied during three previous expeditions, of organising expeditions with new objectives, in unexplored regions, with good team spirit.

Summary : The first ascent of Labuche kang II (7072 m) by a Swiss team. The summit was reached on 30 April, 2 and 3 May 1995.

 

 

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THE SÄCHSISCHER BERGSTEIGERBUND and the Akademische Sektion Dresden, 2 local sections of the German Mountaineering Association carried out a Youth Expedition from 17 September to 11 November 1995. The 11 team members from the Technical University of Dresden were 22 to 32 years old. For most of the members this was the first Himalayan climb. The idea was to give young climbers the chance to collect as much Himalayan experience as possible and to be involved in high altitude mountaineering as high as possible. The ambitious aim was to climb the Kirat Chuli (Tent peak) (7365 m) following the historical route of the first ascent of a Swiss German team in 1939. It is still the only one. The Sikkim Himalaya was chosen with respect to it’s unique rich nature and it’s important role in German mountaineering history (P. Bauer, G. O. Dyhernfurth).

The approach started on 29 September from Lachen (2730 m) with 36 porters and 18 yaks via Zemu chu which is one of the most beautiful treks I had ever seen. We stopped at Jadong (3237 m), Yaktang, Yabuk (3978 m) and Rest Camp (4570 m). It is a pleasure to walk under luscious rhododendron trees along the Zemu river. On 29 Sept. the base camp (BC) at Green Lake (4900 m) was reached with a breathtaking view of the virgin south face of Kangchenjunga. Because of the lack of information about north Sikkim (our planning was based on the old descriptions of 1939) we had to spend several days exploring the most promising route over the Tent peak glacier and Nepal Gap glacier. Ice conditions have changed considerably since 1939, due to glacier draw back unexpected serac zones appeared. Finally C1 was established on 7 October (5500 m) on the right of the Nepal Gap glacier. Over the upper Nepal Gap glacier we easily reached C2 which was erected on 10 October (6000 m). After a failed try to reach the south ridge of the Nepal Peak via an ice-ridge, we climbed a snow gully right of upper Nepal Gap and continued to the right hand over easy but fragile rock where we found old fixed ropes. We also decided to fix this passages with 200 m rope. Doing this we could avoid dangerous overhanging snow passages on Nepal Peak ridge starting above upper Nepal Gap. We established C3 on 15 October (6300 m) on a small plateau on Nepal Peak ridge. Facing strong wind we followed the direct line to Nepal Peak. Being stopped by an ice barrier, we set up C4 (6600 m) in a glacier crack. The weather turned too bad and on 21 October everybody found himself back at the BC watching heavy snow fall. However on 24 October the party of Jens Webersinn and Mattias Goede overcame and fixed a narrow steep (700) ice gully above C4. The last obstacle was taken.

On 25 October Mattias Goede, Jens Webersinn and Ulf Lehnert scaled the visually highest point in the near surroundings at around 4 p.m. despite of heavy cold wind. The altitude was 7150 m. To continue the 1 1/2 km long ridge to Kirat Chuli at the same day was out of question because of heavy and cold wind and considering that climbing the ridge during the first ascent in 1939 took 3 days. A bivouac night under this conditions would be hard to survive. They returned to C4 just before darkness with slightly frozen fingers and toetips. The next day Uta Seemann, Ulf Koritz and Wolfram Schroter scaled the point at 10 a.m. but they also returned because of wind and cold. The sky was clear and in spite of heavy cold wind we enjoyed the wonderful view to Bhutan, Tibet, Nepal and of course Sikkim with it’s numerous snowy peaks. Totally frozen we hurried to return down to life. The fall storms seemed to have already started.

There was no time for another summit try. On 27 October the base camp was dismantled. All material from high camps, all fixed ropes, etc., were completely moved down. Luckily we had not a single accident. This Tent Peak attempt was made without high altitude porters. On 30 Oct the last party left BC enjoying the beautiful colours of the late autumn in the Zemu valley.

Returning to the civilisation we spend a wonderful time sightseeing in Sikkim and in Darjeeling.

Summary: An attempt on Kirat Chuli (7365 m) (also known as Tent Peak), by a German team in October 1995.

 

 

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I RECEIVED AN exciting proposal from a long time associate Animesh Bose. The proposal primarily involved an environmental study expedition to the Kangchenjunga National Park, beginning from Yuksam, to the Rathong and Ouglokthang glaciers, the sources of the Rathong chu and the Prek chu rivers. The team consisted of 3 scientist and support members. Apart from this Animesh threw in an additional incentive, an attempt on Tinchenkhang (6010 m) a challenging virgin peak.

Both teams left Siliguri for Yuksam on 6 May morning. We reached Yuksam after an uneventful journey where we planned to stay before leaving on the first leg of the trek to Bakkim. The study team had 8 members and the climbing team had 6 members. The team proceeded to Bakhim, Dzongri, Thangsing and reached the base camp on 9 May, dominated by views of Tinchenkhang and Pandim.

On the 10th the climbing team started ferrying loads to C1 side at c. 4700 m. The approach to C1 was rocky throughout and skirted the west wall of Tinchenkhang towards its right.

Pitching 3 tents and dumping our loads, we returned to the base camp.

While we were doing this Animesh trekked to Lamane to recce and photograph the peaks north face. The scientific team meanwhile had proceeded onwards to Sunithang, en route to Zemathang, Chamathang and the Ouglokthang glaciers for their survey. We occupied C1 on 11 May, and began our recce to the C2 site.

We had to start fixing rope right away as the terrain was steep. We reached the prospective site, after a steep rock climb of about 300 m. The weather worsened rapidly. Towards the right hand side of the west wall was a 90 degree steep iceslope which leads to a glacial tongue like formation towards its base. The glacial meltwater has created a small nala which flowed near the base camp and finally into the Prek chu.

As further progress was not possible we returned to C1. We may be a little late in the season as the monsoon was showing signs of setting in. On the 12th we started early in order to reach C2. On completing the rock climb we reached terminal moraines. There was another rock wall supporting a narrow hanging glacier at a 60-70 degree gradient. This wall had loose rock with patches of ice on it. Sonam Dorjee and I proceeded to fix another 100 m of rope on this. Sonam was injured by a falling rock.

By now, the weather was worsening, and another whiteout began to roll in. We did a recce on the fore-side of the terminal moraine for a route on to the west ridge. After three attempts at different locations we encountered the same features on the west wall - 85 to 90 degree gradient of smooth slate rock with a massive icefall on the main west face of Tinchenkhang.

While contemplating the possibility of C2 here, we came to the conclusion that the west was unclimbable under the circumstances. We were short of fixed rope, having used up more than a 300 m of it. The wall facing us would require fixed rope upto about 600 m on the west wall of Tinchenkhang, as well as much more climbing was left than we had been prepared for.

We should have perhaps attempted to cross the icefall and approach the northwest ridge of the peak. Again, weather made further progress impossible. We returned to C2 and began our way back to C1, a break in the whiteout gave us a view of the towering peaks of Kabru, Kabru Dome, Kokthang, from left to right, and the Perk chu, flowing far below us like some silver snake.

On the 13th morning, Dorjee, Sonam and I set of for a final attempt on the west face, and also to recce the approach to the northwest ridge route. We reached a point on the west wall barely about 150 m above the point reached yesterday. It was now snowing, and the ever present fog rolled in reducing the visibility to zero. We confirmed our earlier conclusions that the attempts via the west face or the northwest ridge would have to be abandoned. The weather had constantly been unfavourable and shortage of fixed rope had prompted this decision, considering the peak's features, which could not be judged from our base camp. Thus, we were forced to retreat to C1, and to the base camp.

Nevertheless, we had confirmed that if Tinchenkhang is to be conquered, it must be via this route. The peaks north face is inaccessible due to a massive hanging glacier at an impossible angle. This is more or less confirmed by photography by Animesh from his recce to Lamane to inspect the north face. I have studied the east face during an expedition in 1987, from the Jaupno pass.

This is a vertical rock wall of over 900 m. Thus the most accessible route is the one we had attempted. Now that we had seen Tinchenkhang closely we shall return better prepared.

Summary: An attempt on Tinchenkhang (6010 m), west Sikkim, by an Indian team in May 1996.

 

 

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OUR EXPEDITION COMPOSED of five French climbers (aged 21-26) selected by the French mountaineering federation: Boris Badaroux, Philippe Batoux, Marc Challamel and Paul Robach (leader).

Searching for a challenging and unclimbed route, we were very excited to find the tremendous virgin north face of Cholatse (Jobo Lhaptshan), 6440 m high, located in the Khumbu area.

Actually, a major route was previously climbed by an American team (American Alpine Journal 1985) and was described as being on the north side. However, the real orientation of this route was northeast, far left from the north face.

We arrived at base camp on 9 October 1995. We decided to establish base camp at 4750 m, at the bottom of the north face and about 100 m below the Zonghla lodge. We discovered our objective, which was a 1400 m high wall, with sustained ice and snow difficulties. In addition to the attractive aspect of strenuous technical difficulties, we were happy to discover such a wall without serac danger. During this autumn season, there was enough snow in the lower part of the face. Conversely, photographs showed that some years ago, the first one third of the route was composed of rock slabs and poor ice, likely to make the climb hazardous.

We first spent a full week trekking for acclimatisation.

On 15 October, we started to climb on this impressive wall. Whereas we expected to find ice slopes, we met gullies (60-70°) of rotten snow or thin ice, preventing us from putting ice screws. We were, therefore, obliged to use deadmen or to dig the snow in order to find cracks to set pitons. Two hundred meters of rope were left after this first reconnaissance. The next day, we fixed 400 m of rope: we followed a tremendous ramp in the middle of huge overhanging rock wall. In this part, we always met steep slopes (up to 850), sometimes in rotten snow. Thehighest point equipped was at 5600 m, where we left bivouac equipment.

After a few days of resting, we started on the 23rd at 1:00 a.m. The climb along the six hundred meters of fixed ropes took us seven hours and a lot of energy! From the altitude of 5600 m, we climbed in alpine style, always making 100 m high pitches. We first crossed a large snowfield (60-70°) to the right, which led us at the bottom of a 100 m high icefall (80-90°). This section was definitely sustained. Since we were five, all with heavy loads, we climbed this pitch after several hours. When we reached the huge depression above the icefall, leading to the northwest ridge, the obscurity stopped us. Although we were sure, from base camp observation, to find a correct bivouac site on this slope, we met a steeper slope than expected. Moreover, ice and rocks appeared immediately under the snow. So we spent several hours to build an uncomfortable platform for two tents.

On the 24th, we started late in the morning. We climbed a succession of steep ice-flutes under the northwest ridge. When the night came, we were gaining a sharp ice-flute (70°) at the foot of vertical rock slabs, where we dug an unstable bivouac. Since the beginning of the climb on the north face, we were astonished and frightened never to see the smallest platform for bivouac. On the 25th, three of us took a full rest day, while the two others equipped a strenuous mixed-climb pitch (IV+ 750) on the right of the rock wall. From this point, fifty meters only separated us from the northwest ridge. The next day, we reached this sharp and esthetic crest and followed it until we gained the summit of Cholatse at 1:00 p.m., which appeared large, but was in fact a dangerous snow mushroom!

We went down by the same route and we finally came back to our uncomfortable bivouac in twilight. The whole following day, we abseiled the 1400 m high north face and recovered all the fixed ropes.

Summary: The first ascent of the north face of Cholatse (6440 m) on 26 October 1995 by a team of French climbers.

Photo 22

 

 

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THE NUPTSE EAST I is close to Everest in the Solo Khumbu region of Nepal and, at 7804 m, is the second highest unconquered peak in the world. The highest unconquered peak, according to UIAA statistics, is the 8414 m Lohtse Ta. The goal of the expedition was the first ascent of Nuptse East I over the 2500 m southern pillar. It is here that seven expedition teams since 1986, including Jeff Lowe and Mark Twight in 1986, have unsuccessfully attempted the ascent. According to statements made by teams who have attempted this, the route over the central southern pillar is said to be one of the most difficult and challenging in the Himalaya due to its length and continuous rock and ice difficulties. The DAV team comprised some of the most capable and experienced up-and-coming new generation of Alpinists in Germany with Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller, Jürgen Krieger, Philip Jaerschky and Christian Schlesener and was lead by Wolfgang Pohl, mountain guide trainer and head of the section mountain climbing, training and safety within the DAV. Medical care was supplied by two doctors with expedition experience; Dr. Ansgar Halder and Dr Christoph Kruis. The expedition was also accompanied by a three-member film crew commissioned by various German television stations for documentaries.

After a total of two years of preparation and a year of training that included scientific study and numerous medical examinations, the team started for Kathmandu from Frankfurt on 1 September 1995. After completing the usual formalities and a week’s march into the region via Lukla, Namche Bazar and Chukkung, base camp was set up on the Lohtse Nup glacier at the foot of the Nuptse south face on 12 September at 5200 m. After several acclimatisation tours and careful study of the route by telescope, the expedition team began climbing the southern pillar on 19 September in poor weather conditions. After 10 days of partly extreme rock and ice climbing, C1 was established as a snow cave at 6050 m. The conditions on the pillar made progress relatively slow due to large amount of uncompact snow, which presented a fairly large problem particularly between base 1 and the pillar summit of ‘Diamond Tower.’ Once the weather improved on 17 October, C2 was established on ‘Diamond Tower’ as a snow cave at 6750 m. To that point over 60 rope lengths with approximately 2000 climbing meters and continuous rock difficulties from VII+, A3 and up to 900 in ice had to be overcome. To ascend and descend the pillar safely between the individual days of climbing, fixed ropes were used to reach the summit of ‘Diamond Tower’. The expedition team, having broken up into smaller groups, then attempted to reach the summit of Nuptse East I over the adjacent névé with a 550 incline and the 300 m summit face, but were defeated at 7050 m by the gale force winds and daytime temperatures of -300 C. The expedition had daily contact by satellite telephone to the OeAV weather service in Innsbruck, Austria, for up-to-date weather information. Their reports indicated that the prevailing west winds reached speeds of up to 200 km/h. As was the case with the French ENSA expedition with M. Fauquet, P. Berhault, G. Vionnet, and C. Moulin who were also forced to abandon their climb below the summit face in the post-monsoon season of 1994 due to the rising jet stream, the DAV expedition team had to date reached the second highest mark of all other qualified teams and completely climbed the southern pillar to the ‘Diamond Tower’ where the main difficulties end.

It goes without saying after the unsuccessful attempt to ascend to the summit and after an average of 20 climbing days on the mountain that the expedition team removed every piece of fixed rope along the route and transported what they took in, back out to the base camp. Moreover, all garbage left by earlier expeditions was removed from the base camp site.

It bears honorable mention that all members of the expedition team reached the ‘Diamond Tower’ summit, and, above all, returned to Germany without health problems or injuries on 5 November. All participants have emphasized the unusually good teamwork and the harmonious tone of the entire undertaking. They would like to wish all those aspiring to climb the southern pillar in the future the best of luck.

Summary: An German attempt on Nuptse East I (7804 m) in October 1995.

 

 

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GED CAMPION (LEADER), Stuart Muir (deputy leader), Rory Newman (doctor), Graham Salmon, Frank Milner, Bruce Bensley, David Hick and Howard Humphries.

Introduction and background :

The Dorje Lakhpa expedition was a Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club expedition (YRC) in the true sense. Apart from the deputy expedition leader, Stuart Muir, all the climbers were club members.

The YRC has been no stranger to the Jugal Himal area of Nepal. In 1957 the club mounted an expedition to climb Lonpo Gang (The Great White Peak, 7083 m). Sadly, this expedition ended in tragedy when the expedition leader and a Sherpa were killed by serac fall on the Phurbi Chyachu glacier.

Whilst there was talk of a further attempt on Lonpo Gang, it was generally felt that the idea of ‘settling a score’ was not the best basis for a club expedition in the 1990’s. Nevertheless, club members on the 1957 expedition were able to offer their invaluable advice and knowledge on the area and it was finally Maurice Wilson, the youngest member of the ’57 expedition now aged 85, who suggested Dorje Lakpa as our objective.

History and logistics of approach :

It was therefore, our objective, to climb Dorje Lakhpa (6966 m) by the west ridge. Dorje Lakhpa has been attempted on six previous occasions and four of these managed to reach the summit via the west ridge.

The summit has not been reached by any other route on the map. However, ours was to be the first British attempt. Expeditions have normally approached the mountain from the Langtang side. Only two expeditions have previously approached from the Jugal Himal side in the south, a German expedition in 1987 and an Italian one in 1989. The German expedition was successful in reaching the summit the Italian one was not. It was to be our decision to approach from the south since there were certain advantages from this side :

Approach to the mountain

On the 4 October we left Kathmandu for Chatura only 60 kilometres north of the city and took three hours by motor vehicle. Porters were organised at Chatura and additional supplies were purchased by staff to sustain us during our outward leg. We decided to approach the higher ranges of the Jugal Himal by a series of ridge systems high above and to the west of the Balephi valley. This it was felt would serve as a useful acclimatization exercise rather than taking the route along the Belephi valley directly to Tempathang village and then suddenly have to climb 2000 m steeply to the top of the ridge system.

From Chatura our caravan took us through the village of Bangland up to the rhododendron forests and leech infested scrub of the Kamicharka Danda leading eventually to Panch Pokhari (five lakes). The monsoon was late this year and bad weather obscured views but out spirits were not dampened. Unfortunately however, our poorly clad porters from Chatura suffered in the wet conditions and the Sirdar experienced considerable industrial unrest on more than one occasion. From the sacred lakes of Panch Pokhari we left our trekking team, also members of the YRC and travelled the so called ‘five combs’ high above the impenetrable gorges of the Balephi river to the eventual confluence of the Balephi and Lingshing rivers below the mouth of the Lingshing glacier.

At the ‘Confluence Camp’ on the 11 October 1995 we halted proceedings to search for a suitable base camp on one of the flanks of the Lingshing glacier. We therefore made a comprehensive exploration of both west and east side. The west appeared safest seemingly absent of any avalanche threat from the slopes of Dorje Lakhpa II above. Unfortunately, though a number of good sites were discovered, access to the glacier was impossible. The ablation valley on the east side however hosted a very promising site and access to the glacier proved relatively simple. Tins and other artefacts were evidences of a previous camp no doubt the German expedition of 1987. Although there was some threat of serac fall from the cliffs of Urkinmang (6151 m), it was judged that the camp site was of a generally safe distance in the event of any ice fall. Base camp was therefore established at 4500 m on 13 October with marvellous view of Dorje Lakhpa from the crest of the lateral moraine of the Lingshing glacier.

The Climb

From base camp the ablation valley was followed to an eventual descent to the Lingshing glacier gained from a diagonal traverse on steep loose moraine. The next section of the glacier Tilman had described in 1949 as ‘a long stretch of rough penitential surface, huge crates and hillocks of stone covered ice’. Forced on to the medial moraine, we discovered a perfect site for our advanced base camp - a grass hollow with two small tarns, a veritable oasis amongst the chaos of the Lingshing glacier. At 4700 m and two and a half hours from our base camp, we had very clear views of our objective. Tilman’s porters mistakenly believed this place to be Panch Pokhari when they crossed from the Langtang side to the Jugal via the east col in 1949. The labours of much ferrying from base camp saw the establishment of advanced base camp on 15 October.

From here we gained height on the medial moraine climbing steeply to rejoin the glacier at 5000 m. The chaos of boulders gave way to ice and snow making the going considerably more easy. A progress was threatened on the west by regular stone fall from the massive rock buttresses of Ling Shing Kanshurm (6078 m). Although a number of crevasses were encountered, they proved relatively easy to cross. C1 was established on the 16 October at 5300 m just below Tilman’s east col marking the start of Dorje Lakpa’s west ridge. During these early days progress was often hampered by poor visibility and snow fall but late monsoon mists gradually gave way to clear and cooler weather.

The C1 was efficiently equipped by ferrying equipment from ABC From here we ascended the gradual snow slope to the right of the ridge. Access to the ridge proper was gained via a 450 slope initially christened to Scottish grade II. From the top of this, the ridge rose broadly at first and then more finally crested with large cornices overhanging the Langtang side of the mountain. We were mostly forced on to the southern side of the crest on steep ground sometime ice covered and sometimes poor quality snow. Ropes were fixed on the steeper sections and by the 24 October C2 was established on the section of the ridge at 6100 m where the ridge levels out before rising sharply again. At first this camp was sited too far along the ridge and was precariously poised on the crest. The following morning it was moved back into a less precipitous area. Throughout this period, teams had been continually visited by two large alpine ravens who cunningly managed to unearth food and equipment despite considerable efforts to conceal supplies.

On the 24/25 October, exploration began on the ridge above C2. This was to be the turning point of the expedition. Much to our dismay snow conditions began to deteriorate substantially. Disturbing slab avalanche conditions were encountered on the south side of the ridge making a traverse extremely serious. The ridge reared up and could not be climbed at the crest because of the unstable nature of the cornice. There appeared to be no reasonable way forward. Expedition members discussed the situation fully, but with an absence of other routes on the 25 October that fateful decision that every mountaineer dreads had to be made - not to go on. With mixed feelings therefore, over the next three days, camps were dismantled, equipment gathered together and a runner sent to organise porters in Tempathang for our return journey. Base camp was completely cleared up and non biodegradable rubbish carried out with us.

Summary: An attempt on Dorje Lakhpa (6966 m) by British expedition in October 1995.

 

 

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THE AUSTRALIAN PYRAMID Peak expedition (Pathibhara) consisted of 7 climbers, as well as a trekker, with myself as leader.

The aim of the expedition was to make the first ascent, and in fact the first attempt on this 7125 m peak from within Nepal. The mountain lies north of Kangchenjunga in the eastern Nepal, and is also known as Pathibhara.

The mountain had been climbed previously by the Japanese a couple of years ago from the Sikkim side, of who’s border the peak straddles along with Nepal’s, but as yet had not had an attempt from the Nepal side as the Ministry of Tourism have had this peak, along with others in the area, on the restricted list.

After the usual paper work, I was granted permission to attempt the peak in early February of 1996, thankfully permission was granted for a sole Australian team, and not a joint expedition which is often the case with unclimbed mountains. We would be attempting the west to south ridge, in the autumn of the same year.

The team left from Kathmandu on 22 September 1996 for Basantpur, which consisted of two days of driving. We left this road head town on the 24th for the trek to our intended base camp at Pang Pema (5140 m), 15 days distant. At first we walked in the last of the monsoon rains, turning some of the paths into rivers, and then the high humidity of the forests, come jungle, followed by alpine meadows. By the time we arrived at our base camp on 8 October the weather had cleared.

An advance base camp (ABC) was established on the Ginsang glacier (5300 m) some 3-5 hours from Pang Pema, ABC was finally occupied by all members on 15 October.

On the 17th, 3 members, Gavin, Jon, and Scott set out to C1 (5700 m), next to a rocky outcrop on the ridge. At this stage the ridge consisted of scree at an angle of around 450, they then moved onto a second camp at 6100 m.

On this same day James and Nicole moved onto the base of the ridge, planning to move up to C1 on the 19th, the weather at this point was clear, though the wind was picking up.

By the 20th the winds had picked up to around 60-80 km and the temperature down to - 25° C. Gavin and Jon occupied C3 (6300 m) until the 22nd, when an attempt was made to move up, they were only to gain another 50 m before they were forced down by the conditions. Scott had dropped back down to join James and Nicole the previous day, and all 3 members returned to ABC from C2, Gavin and Jon also returning back to ABC a couple of days latter as by now the winds were continually high and snow clouds were forming. This weather continued, thus preventing any other teams from making any further attempts.Snow fell for a number of days and base camp was disbanded on the 28 October.

Members : (climbers) Darren Miller (leader), James Serle, Gavin Dunmall, Nicole Sunderland, Scott Welch, Jonathan Chapman and Morvan Grant. (Trekker) Tim Evans.

Summary: An attempt on Pathibhara (Pyramid peak) (7125 m), by an Australian team in October 1996.

Photos 23-24-25

 

 

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IN SEPTEMBER AND October 1995 my team explored a remote region of the Kanjiroba Himal in the Dolpo region of northwestern Nepal. I spent over a year attempting to procure a permit for a never attempted mountain called Kang Chunne. However, just prior to our trip’s departure the government changed in Nepal and my final permit was not issued. At the very last moment I was able to procure a permit to attempt an unclimbed mountain called Shey Shikhar (6139 m) from the north side. My team consisted of a joint American-Nepalese expedition. We were Ed Webster, Steve Ruoss, Billy Squier, Mike Sinclair, George Waring III, George Waring IV from the United States, Bruce Normand from Scotland, and Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa and B. D. Shresta from Nepal.

On 12 September we flew to Dunahai to begin a trek towards our mountain. We had a slight problem in that Shey Shikhar was not listed on any map. We had been told Shey Shikhar was another name for a peak labeled ‘Junction Peak’ that appeared on one of the three topographical maps we were able to procure of the region. With Junction Peak as our goal we decided to approach it’s north side via a trek to Phoksundo lake and then veer west up the Tso Karpo Kang valley. We reached a base camp at approximately 4200 m at the head of this beautiful valley. Surrounding us were fantastic summits. However, Junction Peak, which we believed to be Shey Shikhar, was hidden behind a 5500 m rock ridge. Our early reconnaissance made it clear that approaching Junction peak from this valley would be suicidal.

Fortunately, the local yak drivers were emphatic that the name of the large peak at the head of the valley was Shey Shikhar. In fact, we were able to find at least one local who nodded his head ‘yes’ when asked if each of the unclimbed mountains in the region was named ‘Shey Shikhar.’ The second Shey Shikhar, which is the highest mountain in the region, appears to be the mountain named Tso Karpo Kang on all three of our maps. This peak was also protected by hanging glaciers and a crumbly rock wall. We were successful, after several attempts, in finding a semi-safe route up the rock wall to a glacier nestled between Tso Karpo Kang (5557 m) (Shey Shikhar) and a second mountain which we called Bahini Kang (6100 m) (Shey Shikhar). According to our best information Tso Karpo Kang was climbed once by an easy route by the Japanese in 1972. The other peaks in the region had never been attempted.

On 29 September after a bivouac on the high glacier at 5100 m, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Naga Dorje Sherpa, B.D. Shresta and myself climbed a 50 degree angled ice 4-1 buttress to intersect the summit ridge on Tso Karpo Kang. We followed this ridge to the summit. We had a bit of excitement as the summit cornice broke with myself, Nima Tashi and Naga Dorje on it. Fortunately we were all able to self-arrest with our feet dangling over a 200 m precipice. On the descent a storm moved in. We followed an easier route down via the west ridge. This is the route we believe was previously climbed by the Japanese.

On 30 September 1995, from the same bivouac site, Steve Rouss, Bruce Normand, Billy Squier, and myself made the first ascent of Bahini Kang via a snow - ridge on the northwest side of the mountain. On the way down we narrowly avoided disaster in a small slab avalanche when Billy Squier jumped one side of the ridge to arrest Steve and myself who had begun to descend the opposite side of the ridge.

On 1 October 1995 Steve Rouss and Bruce Normand returned to Tso Karpo Kang climbing a very direct route on the south face to the summit of the peak. They encountered ice up to 800 and continuous technical climbing.

The final ascent by our team took place on 2 October when George Waring III, George Waring IV, Mike Sinclair, Naga Dorje, Nima Tashi and myself made the first ascent of Kang Ya Ja (5997 m) (Shey Shikhar) via a spectacular but technically straightforward route on the south face of the mountain. Our path first involved 300 m of rock scrambling up to 5.4 in difficulty. We then negotiated a hanging glacier and maze of crevasses to a 450 snow - gully leading directly to the summit ridge. Our group then trekked north to the Shey monastery and returned via Phoksundo lake at Dunahai.

We found the Dolpo to be a beautiful, pristine area. The people were extremely friendly and nice. We carried out all of our disposable garbage. All garbage that could be burned was burned and buried deeply into crevasses. We left no fixed rope or any climbing gear on the mountain.

Summary: Ascents in the Kanjiroba Himal, Dolpo, West Nepal by an American team in 1995. Three peaks were climbed.

Photos 26-27

 

 

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AS LEGEND GOES, the Panch (5) Pandavas of the Mahabharat cooked their last meals on the Panch Chulis (5 hearths) before they proceeded to heaven. Although many of our friends started calling our five member team ‘the Pandavas,’ we surely didn’t want to repeat their performance! Cooking our meals and climbing Panch Chuli II (6904 m) and Panch Chuli III (6312 m) was on our agenda but we wanted to be back in one piece. We nearly didn’t return as our expedition went, but I suppose heaven was not ready for us as yet.

We were relieved to leave behind the heat of Bombay and Delhi as we travelled by road to Munsiari. We called it a day (or rather night) when our driver decided to find out whether our vehicle could fly. He started dozing off at the wheel and nearly took off the winding mountain road.

We spent a day in Munsiari for packing and purchases and on 8 May we hired a truck to transport us with rations and equipment to Madkot (1330 m), our roadhead. Our porters were waiting for us. We allotted the loads and on the same day we started our trek to the village Giala (1880 m). The route was on the left bank of the Madhkanya river. Next day we trekked to Athansi and on to Kothi (2280 m). The trek was through a beautiful jungle and over a steep ridge. We trekked to the Pyunshani gadhera and spent a night on a river bed (2720 m) before moving on to base camp (BC) on 12 May (3450 m). The approach march was beautiful and through thick virgin forest. At many places one had to virtually crawl through the undergrowth to make a way.

The major disadvantage of this base camp was its low altitude. Our climbing started at 3450 m and we had planned to attempt reaching 6900 m, a height difference of 3550 m. We went for a walk along the lateral moraine of the Panch Chuli glacier to observe our mountains and our planned route. What we saw made our mouth go dry and our stomachs tighten. Our planned route up the rock rib leading to the col between Panch Chuli II and III was immediately ruled out. What we could not gather from previous photographs of the mountain was a huge bergschrund at the base of the rock rib and a towering gendarme that blocked our way father up. Scanning the mountain for a long time we spotted an alternative route.

Climbing this route would require fine tuning ourselves to the mountain. The greatest hazard for us were the avalanches. At some points we would be exposed to the full brunt of any avalanche that may come down. To avoid this we would have to climb early in the day and reach the safety of our camp by 11 a.m. Suitable sites for our camps were also spotted.

We retained some of our low altitude porters for a few days to assist us in setting up our advance base camp (ABC). To save time we moved up the very next day to recce the route to ABC with loads. A suitable site for ABC was located at c. 4000 m. After two more days of load ferry, we shifted to ABC on 16 May. We wound up BC and started off for ABC by 10.30 a.m. By the time we reached the camp site, the weather had closed - in and it started snowing. By evening we settled in our tent tired, hungry, dehydrated and wet.

We spent a day setting up ABC and having a final check on our rations and equipment for the high altitude. It was decided to leave early next day to establish the route to C1 (5000 m). Four of us would continue the climb from here on. Joe was grounded with his knee aching. He would continue supporting us from ABC with his unending collection of jokes. So much for boosting our morale!

We were up by 3.30 a.m. and were off towards C1 by 5.00 a.m. with heavy loads. The snow had not settled and progress was very difficult. We would sink in about one to two feet in the soft snow. Taking turns in leading the route we made slow progress towards the camp. The route went through an avalanche- prone area. By 11 a.m. we reached the rock bank up which we would have to climb to establish the camp. However while we were negotiating the initial section, avalanches started pouring down the chute on our route. We decided to leave our loads anchored to the rock and move down immediately. We moved down as fast as possible and were back at camp in about one and a half hour. The day had been long and we were totally spent our. We decided not to move up the next day.

Next day dawned clear. Refreshed after a good breakfast, we felt it was better to use the time to ferry loads as far as possible on our route and leave them at a safe location. Moving up on our previous tracks we made good progress and in about two hours we reached about half way up the route. We dumped our loads and returned to camp. By evening the weather was bad and we had snowfall.

It continued snowing through the night. We had to abandon our plans to ferry up to C1 on the next day. A change of plans was called for. Having missed that day and looking at the terrain with its inherent risk of avalanche, we decided that we would move up next day and occupy C1. The loads we had dumped would be collected subsequently. We prepared ourselves to move up.

21 May. We got up at 1 a.m. in the biting cold and prepared to leave. Starting by 3.15 a.m., with heavy loads, we reached our dump point and picked up some more things that were essential for the day. We laboured up the route and reached our previous high point on the rock by 9.30 a.m. We had to negotiate steep rock and soft snow on sloping rock slabs. The climbing was harder than we had anticipated. We had long run-outs without any place for anchors. It was frightening leading up. Our water ran out and we were dehydrated. After many hours of difficult climbing, we had fixed rope past the rocks. It was late evening by the time we were moving past the fixed ropes. In the dwindling light we moved up a steep snow slope, soloing. There was no time to belay each other. We barely managed to locate a suitable place for C1. We cut a ledge on the snow ridge, enough to pitch one two - man tent. Four of us squeezed into the tent somehow and retired for the night after having some hot soup.

Extremely dehydrated and too tired to climb, the day was spent setting up C1. We pitched another tent, dug a hole for toilet in the snow, fixed a safety rope around the camp and rehydrated ourselves through the day. Next day we moved down to the lower dump point and picked up our loads. All movement had to be done in the early hours to avoid the avalanches that would start by 10.30 a.m.

The route was pushing us to our limits. The exhaustion and the stress of climb were testing us. At this point we began questioning ourselves. Was it all worth it? Were the risks too high? Would we be able to negotiate the route ahead? The route to the col between peak II and III itself was so difficult. What about the climb from the col to the top? Time was also running out. The four of us sat at camp discussing our plans. Each expressed his intention of joining this expedition and what it meant to him. Should we continue the climb with the unlikely chances of reaching the top considering the difficulties and uncertainties ahead or should be turn back in time to attempt some other mountain where our chances of reaching the top were higher? It was a tough decision. After a long discussion in which we swung from one choice to the other, we aligned ourselves to continue the climb. We would push ourselves as far as possible keeping within the line of safety.

Considering the route ahead, we required additional equipment from ABC. Therefore it was decided that Fulton and I would move down to ABC next day while Theo and Cyrus would start opening the route to C2. On that day, two rope lengths were fixed on the climb to Camp 2.

25 May. We started from ABC with heavy loads. Our cook Jeevan also accompanied us upto the dump point. We took additional loads from him and moved as fast as possible towards C1. Now that we were acclimatised, we were making good progress and that day we reached C1 in 5 hours from ABC instead of the normal 8-9 hours.

Theo and Cyrus were high up, opening route. It had been a very good day for them so far. They had fixed 8 rope lengths (400 m) of rope already and only one rope was left. The route was exciting and they felt a sense of elation knowing that ahead the climb seemed technically possible for us to negotiate. They decided to fix the last rope and return to camp. Just as Theo had climbed about 10 m from the anchor point, there was a swoosh and before they knew what happened, he was moving down at great speed with the avalanche. The avalanche has started off from where he was climbing. His belay rope snapped and Cyrus was thrown aside. Fortunately Cyrus remained safe on the anchor.

Fulton and I had just reached C1 and were melting water. We heard some noise and were horrified to see Theo in the avalanche falling past the camp. Immediately I prepared to move down. Fulton helped me with my gear and within minutes I was moving down the fixed ropes towards ABC. While I was moving down, Cyrus came in sight. It was a relief that he was safe. As I moved down I also caught sight of Theo on the avalanche debris. He was on the slope below the camp. Theo had got up and was moving down towards ABC. A miracle!!

He was alive. We shouted to each other. Theo said he was hurt but was moving to ABC. I followed him to ABC.

About a hundred metre away from ABC I met Theo and what a sight! Theo was consoling the weeping Jeevan (our cook). Very attached to Theo due to his previous association with him, Jeevan could not bear the thought of Theo’s accident.

At ABC I checked Theo for any injuries. His ankle was sprained and his right wrist was swollen and painful. Otherwise he seemed all right. Helmet had saved his head from any serious injury. He had a minor cut on his eyebrow. Having fallen through about 600 m over steep snow and rock, Theo was a favoured man. The mountain had spared him.

The mountain had decided. We had ample warning. The expedition was called off immediately. Cyrus and Fulton wound up C1 while I went down to BC to bring additional rations and fuel. The next day, Jeevan and I moved up and with Cyrus and Fulton brought down all the loads from C1 to ABC. We had to leave all the fixed rope on the mountain since there was no time to remove the rope and gear. We lost about 900 m of rope that was fixed on the mountain in addition to 500 m that was left at the camp site.

Jeevan was sent down to the roadhead to call for the porters for our movement down. In the mean time we wound up ABC and moved to BC. The porters came up on the 30th. With their help we moved all the loads to BC and started for our return trek on the 31st. In one and a half day we moved down to Madkot.

We came down from right of the river this time. The expedition reached Munsiari on the 1st evening. We travelled to Pithoragad where Theo’s hand was checked. The X-ray did not show a fracture. We were relieved. The expedition was back in Bombay on 8 June. About a month later when his hand was still very painful, Theo had it checked again only to find that the hand was actually fractured and had set incorrectly. My faith in Xrays and hospitals was shaken.

Looking back at our expedition, we were satisfied, yet a sense of incompleteness lingered. We don’t know whether we would have made it, had it not been for the accident. Our expedition was dominated by the number 5: 5 Members attempting Panch (5) Chuli II and III (also adding up to 5) in the 5th month of the year and to add to it we left Bombay on the 5th. What it meant is left to interpretations and belief !

For us, this expedition was a time when we experienced true friendship and teamwork. Each of us contributed in our own way to the best of our abilities. We laughed through our jokes and cried out of relief after the accident. We were happy to be back. So what if the Pandavas went to heaven!

Sponsored by : The Explorers and Adventurers, Bombay.

Members : Divyesh Muni, Cyrus Shroff, E Theophilus (leader), Fulton Nazareth and Joe Menezes.

Summary: An attempt on Panch Chuli II (6904 m) and III (6312 m), by a team from Bombay in May-June 1996. Two members reached (5500 m) when an avalanche carried their leader down, (4700 m) luckily unhurt.

Photos 28-29

 

 

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THE IDEA FOR an expedition to Changabang’s north face came about after studying photographs taken on an expedition to the Bagini glacier in 1995. At that time the area was only just opening up to foreign visitors and my wife and I were fortunate to be able to make an attempt on Tirsuli West, while noting the wealth of other climbing opportunities. In researching the possibility of Changabang as an objective we noted that the mountain had not received an ascent since the very bold west face route put up by Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976 from the Ramani glacier. The aspect of the north face revealed in our photographs promised equally committing, difficult technical climbing on ice and rock. An alpine style attempt on this objective seemed a fitting follow-up. The team was easily drawn together, comprising myself, my wife Julie-Ann Clyma and friends Andy Perkins and Brendan Murphy.

With an objective and a team, the first obstacle for the embryonic expedition was to obtain a peak permit. We applied for this in October 1995, but due to the proximity of the Bagini glacier to a closed area, there was a long delay in processing. Even at the eleventh hour as the expedition was departing the UK on 12 May 1996 our fate was uncertain. Thanks to the efforts and assistance of our friends in India however, by the time we arrived in New Delhi for our briefing at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation the peak permit had been granted and our progress to the mountain seemed assured. Over the nextfew days we met our liaison officer Mrs. Rekha Gulia and then travelled overland by minibus to the town of Joshimath, arriving on 17 May. Here we hired 22 porters and a cook, and purchased our provisions. On 19 May we started our journey to base camp. This began with a slow bus ride to the village of Jumma, and then a 4-5 hour walk up steep, but well maintained paths to the village of Dunagiri. The following day it was only another 6-7 hour walk to a base camp site at c. 4550 m, on grassy meadows on the true right bank of the Bagini glacier.

It is always a relief for any expedition to reach base camp in good order and able to look forward to the climbing ahead. We were very keen to keep our momentum going despite feeling a bit debilitated by the large altitude gain, so on the morning of 21 May Julie-Ann and I with 5 porters, set off to try and get the bulk of our climbing equipment to an ABC site. The journey across the glacier was relatively straightforward, but we could see after 3-4 hours walking that it would not be possible to get to the foot of the mountain in one push, so we dumped the gear at a sheltered spot close to running water and named it the Intermediate camp (c. 4850 m). The following day was a well earned rest day for the expedition members and the last of the porters descended back to the valley.

Over the next four days the weather was excellent and the whole team moved up to the Intermediate camp, located and established our ABC site (c. 5170 m) beneath the north face of Changabang, and then went on to climb up to the Bagini col (5860 m). This provided us with valuable time to acclimatise and also to check out possible lines on the face. The central part of the north face was a stupendous sweep of steep, clean granite, with improbable ice formations stuck randomly to it. The major lines of weakness lay on a buttress jutting out from the left hand side of the face, and there appeared to be a selection of possible starts, although only one obvious finish. The key to any route seemed to be reaching a central, and then upper, icefield which we hoped would give at least two sites for putting up a tent. A surprising, but encouraging finding, was that the buttress was in the sun for most of the day, and we thought that should allow for quite consolidated conditions and a degree of warmth. This four day trip was a productive one in terms of getting established and adjusting to the altitude and we returned to base camp with a lot to think about in terms of exactly where and how we were going to get up the mountain. Our return to base camp was well timed, because the weather deteriorated over the next four days and we had some snow on one afternoon.

On the morning of 31 May we set out again for ABC, with the objective of doing one more acclimatisation and reconnaissance trip to confirm our route choice and then perhaps to startthe ascent proper. We had decided to climb up to the col between the Changabang and Ramani glaciers, where Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker had camped on their ascent of the west face. The line we took was initially straightforward on a broad snow slope, but a final mixed spur to get to the col (c. 5690 m) was quite hideous. We found ourselves on a very narrow ridge and a good part of the afternoon of 1 June was spent excavating two tent platforms. This site was an excellent spot for looking at routes and a couple of obvious lines were starting to emerge. The next morning, 2 June, we descended back to the glacier and traversed close in under the north face to look at the start of these lines. The favourite was around 1400 m long - a steep, icy groove line leading up to mixed ground and onto the first icefield, followed by rock ramps leading to a junction with the east ridge.

Having found a route we were all happy with, we decided to make a start on it the following day. When we had been planning the route back in the UK we had hoped to climb it in as close to alpine style as was possible. However, faced with the technical difficulties of this line it seemed that adopting a modified form of capsule style would be more appropriate. The four of us planned to climb cooperatively, with the two pairs sharing the leading and load carrying. We had 60 m of 10.5 mm as a lead rope, two 100 m lengths of static line for fixing and abseiling, and 120 m of 8.5 mm rope as a backup. On 3 June we all set off from ABC at 5 a.m. carrying all our rope and technical gear. We reached the bergschrund (c. 5450 m) at around 7 a.m. and the team split into pairs. Brendan and I started on the route, with the intention of leading out all the rope, while Andy and Julie-Ann returned to ABC to pick up food and tents and then carry as much gear as possible up to the high point established by the other two. Bylateafternoon about 350 m of rope was out and most of our provisions sat at the end of it. We returned to ABC for the night and as everyone was tired from their efforts it seemed sensible to go back to base camp for rest before making our final attempt on the route. Our timing was impeccable, because the next two days at BC brought strong winds and record amounts of snow, and we than had another two days waiting for the conditions to settle.

On 8 June we set off from BC for the last time. It was quick trip to ABC then a long afternoon rest. On 9 June we started back on the route. Unfortunately there was bad news at the bergschrund as the technical gearwe had cached was buried under feet of fresh snow and an hour of digging was required to get it clear. Andy and Brendan then started up the ropes first in order to get to the high point and sort out the gear to go into the lead. Julie-Ann and I followed behind, carrying the heavier sacs and pulling up the ropes for the other pair. Initial snow slopes of around 400-500 m led up to the thin ice-run nel which became progressively steeper. From the top of the fixed ropes Brendan and Andy led out another two hard pitches on 600-700 m ice. By then the heat of the sun had the couloir running with water and the whole team retreated off to the side onto small rock ledges. There was no hope of putting up a tent, so we each selected a ledge and got tied on. It was a very uncomfortable night, and the sight of dawn was a welcome reprieve.

Brendan and Andy then led off again, pushing the route out another 3 pitches, up to the top of the couloir and onto the mixed ground. The couloir finished with a series of overhanging ice-bulges and by the time Julie-Ann and I reached this section, water was again cascading down the route. The team met up together atthe junction between the ice-couloirand the mixed ground and spent an even more uncomfortable second night bivouacked on rock ledges. On the third day Roger and Julie-Ann went into the lead and did another 3 pitches on mixed ground leading to the edge of the first icefield. It was late afternoon before everyone arrived, and no tent sites were immediately obvious. Feeling in need of a proper rest though we decided we would have to dig until we got some ledges. Shallow snow on top of hard ice meant itwas four hours of chopping before we succeeded.

Nobody got settled in before 9 p.m., but what a luxury to lie down flat. Unfortunately, overnight Andy became ill with a severe case of diarrhoea (later diagnosed as arising from Salmonella). It had already been decided that the next day should be a rest day, and now this was doubly important to enable him to recover. We spent the day in good weather, looking at the route ahead and catching up on food and fluid intakes. On the 13th we had hoped to move up, but Andy was still too weak and the weather had deteriorated, so we had another rest day.

It seemed from our analysis of the route that it would be at least another three days climbing from the spur to reach the summit, and then it would require at least two days for an abseil descent. We were now very pushed for time, with our porters due on the 19th June, so starting on the route again the following day was becoming imperative. In a team discussion we went through all the possible options, and Andy indicated that he hoped he would be able to continue. 14 June dawned with high cloud and the promise of more bad weather, but with Andy a little improved we packed up camp and started the laborious process of traversing across the icefield.

This was the crux of the route in terms of commitment, as there would be no easy abseil off this section if things went wrong, and in bad weather it was prone to constant spindrift avalanches. It was also a critical passage in leading us to what we thought would be the technical crux of the route getting established in the rock grooves leading to the east ridge. The icefield was a mixture of rock-hard water ice and softer névé-ice. In order to keep to the softer ice I led out from just above the campsite on a descending traverse. Two more pitches saw us into the middle of the icefield, with a good view of the difficult exit cou loirs.

Unfortunately at this point it became clear that Andy was totally exhausted and that continuing up was out of the question. At the same time there was a sudden, rapid deterioration in the weather. There was little option but to return to the campsite on the edge of the icefield, and we climbed back in heavy snowfall and spindrift avalanches. After an uncomfortable night with continued steady snow fall, the following morning dawned grey with more bad weather, and our summit attempt was over. Descent was relatively straightforward - good anchors had already been noted on the ascent, and although the ropes snagged on a couple of abseils, we reached the bergschrund without mishap. The mountain was cleared of all rubbish and equipment except a few abseil slings. Carrying all our gear we staggered back down to ABC in a white-out, skirting warily beneath the large cones of avalanche debris which covered our old tracks.

On 16 June we dismantled ABC and carrying enormous sacs descended through the day to BC. We weighed the sacs out of curiosity: 32-42 kg each was the result! With the help of our liaison officer and cook we had arranged that porters from Dunagiri and Reni would come up to BC to meet us for the walk- out and so on 18 June we started our journey back home. We arrived in New Delhi on the 20th along with the first monsoon rains.

Despite being unable to reach the top of our route, this was a memorable expedition. It was a privilege to attempt such a fine objective in the total solitude of a beautiful and un-spoilt corner of the Himalayan.
The area of the Bagini glacier offers a wealth of climbing opportunities. An ascent of the north face of Changabang remains to be finished, and there are also many challenging lines to explore on other peaks defining the upper glacial basin - Purbi Dunagiri (6489 m), Kalanka (6931 m), Rishi Pahar (6992 m), Saif Minal (6911 m), Hardeol (7161 m), and Tirsuli West (7035 m).

Summary: An attempt on the north face of Changabang (6864 m) by a British team in May-June 1996.

Frontispiece, Colour plate 12, Photo 30

 

 

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WE WERE PLANNING one rock climb on the west face to Bhagirathi III for post-monsoon of 1996. One big wall, we had seen so many photos and creeping reports about in lots of mountain magazines.

But Juan Tomas, one of the four climbers who opened (in 1984) the ‘Impossible Star’ route (may be the best on this wall) showed us photos of another wall just to the north of Bhagirathi III which really impressed us. It’s a summit whose name we haven’t seen yet in any map, but people call it ‘Bhagirathi IV’ and is between Bhagirathis II and III.

We found outthatthis wall only had been attempted bya strong Slovenian team lead by Silvo Karo, and it was not still climbed! So, it was clear what was going to be our target for our holidays this year.

This great wall is unknown in Europe, maybe because it’s eclipsed by its neighbour, Bhagirathi III, but it has a beauty, a verticality and a rock quality really attractive for some crazy climbers like us.

On 29 August 1996 we were in Gangotri; a very special place with magic in the air. As we hiked towards Nandanban, our base camp, the Gods blessed us from the summit of these incredible mountains: Bhrigu Parbat, Manda, Shivling and of course Bhagirathis.

But... where’s Bhagirathi?

Two days later we reached to Nandanban (4300 m) a pleasant place to set the base camp. I believed that here we could enjoy a great sight but we only could see clouds, the monsoon was still here. No problem, although the weather was bad we began to carry all the luggage until the base of the wall with four strong high - altitude porters.

We decided to install C1 (5000 m). On a glacier covered with rocks just underthe west face of Bhagirathi IV (itwas a supposition because the bad weather did not allow was us to see the wall). This camp was protected from stone and snowfalls and almost completely surrounded by great rock walls.

During one week we worked hard portering up to C1 everything necessary in the climb; tents, portal - ledges, climbing gear, food for 25 days, ... around 400 kg.

The weather was very bad and we hadn’t seen our wall yet because of it. Usually in September the weather is good here after the monsoon but this year the clouds and the snow don’t want to leave us and can ruin our plans.

Suddenly on 10 September the weather seemed to become better and at last we could see for first time the Bhagirathis and our neighbour on the other side of the glacier, Shivling.

The wall

The next day we climbed up to the C1 to stay. Now we’II begin to climb the rock wall.

Now we can see our wall, completely it looks so smart, but it’s protected by a very sloping snowfield with some rock-passes.

It was incredible, that great wall before our eyes, 700 m. of rock! We could choose the route we wanted to climb. Nowadays it’s not easy to find a wall like this which is not climbed at all. It’s granite seemed . . . perfect.

The upper partwas whatworried us because that perfect granite disappears and the terrific schists appear. It’s a very bad rock which brought us some nightmares. But we believed we could avoid them by one snowfield on the left of this part up to the summit.

But we had to start in the beginning. We saw two great diehdrals as the logical way to start the wall, but because of the continuous snow fall they were real icefalls. We decided to start climbing on the buttress to the right of those two icefalls.

First of all we fixed 300 m of static rope on the slopes under the wall. After that we began the rock which was what we’d really come for. The first movements were free climb, but at soon we began with aid-climb, usually following narrow cracks where the ‘knife-blades’ were very useful.

The weather was somewhat better than some days ago, but not quite so good, everyday in the afternoon it snowed. As the days passed, the wall was more and more icy and snowy and the climb became harder.

Everyday we climbed and fixed rope on the piece of wall we had ‘conquered’ that day (not more than 35 m per day) and then we rappled down to the C1, usually into the snowstorm of every afternoon.

We worked in two teams: two of us climbed one day while the other two carried heavy rucksacks up to the base of the wall, following the fixed ropes with jumars. The next day we changed the work.

But our rhythm was too slow because of the conditions of the wall and the bad weather. In ten days we only had been able to open 5 rock - pitches on the wall, and we realised that we could not climb up to the summit before the permission expires. Therefore we decided to quit.

Maybe the Gods didn’t want us to climb this wall. The hidden jewel of Garhwal will not be for us, at least this year.

Members : Xabi Guembe, Pablo Maravi, Rafa Santesteban and Txuma Ruiz (leader).

Summary: An attempt on ‘Bhagirathi IV’bya Spanish expedition in September 1996.

Colour plate 13, Photo 31

 

 

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FIVE MEMBERS WITH two HAPs scaled Dharamsura on 7 September 1996. We had tried to climb this peak in 1992, but failed due to bad weather.

We started from Manikaran on 20 August and reached at Shamshi, (3800 m) where we tried to acclimatise till the height of 4370 m. After taking one day rest, we made our BC (4200 m) on the East Tos glacier on 26 August on 28 August, C1 (4800 m) was established after reaching upto 4900 m. On 29 August, two ropes were fixed on the crevasses and we made the route upto 5200 m. After that, we all members climbed down to BC to take a rest.

On 31 August, we went through the crevasses and made the route upto 5400 m. On 1 September we crossed over the col on the northwest ridge of Angdu Ri and established C2 (5500 m) at the source of a small glacier. On 2 September, we climbed down to BC to take rest after carrying our loads for C2 and climbed up to check our route.

We shifted to C2 on 4 September. On 5 September, we climbed up to the col on the south ridge and reached 5800 m after fixing ten ropes on the fragile rock. On the 6th, we made the route upto the snow ridge, 6200 m, via the broad snowplateau which lies from 5900 m and went round the hanging glacier from the left side.

On 7 September at 5.00 a.m. we started from C2. We climbed over three small snow lumps at 6200 m and fixed two ropes on the last steep snowface. At last, we reached the summit of Dharamsura (6446 m) at 11.35 a.m.

Members : Zennosuke Sakurazawa (leader), Takashi (climbing leader), Masanobu Ouchi Tsutomu Aoki, Yasuo Kurasawa and Misako Sakurazawa.

Summary: An ascent of Dharamsura (6446 m) by a Japanese team on 7 September 1996.

 

 

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IN SEPTEMBER 1980 I was coming to the end of a wonderful year spent mainly among the smaller hills and mountains of the Himalaya. My friends had all gone their own ways and I travelled to Manali for a last sojourn in the Kullu area. Studying my small scale map I traced a path over the Kalihain pass to Bara Bangahal, whence there appeared a number of enticing choices leading northwards to the Chandrabhaga and Lahaul.

I think my imagination about Bara Bangahal had been stirred by a slightly bumptious letter in the Himalayan Journal some years previously, in which the writer had appeared to equate his achievement in reaching this remote village with the Boardman-Tasker ascent of Changabang! The letter received a dignified put down from Joe Tasker, but however ludicrous the comparison it seemed that Bara Bangahal might be a challenging place to try and reach. In addition, when asked about the Kalihain, the landlord of my hotel reminisced with great pleasure about his childhood summers spent crossing the pass with the flocks, and encouraged me to go - making it sound a very straightforward undertaking.

At this distance in time I cannot recall exactly what I took with me, but my preparations were probably quite meagre compared with many trekkers. I was fit and acclimatised, and, most important, attuned to the country and its ways after many months of expeditioning and trekking in small groups or alone. I used to take a certain pride in managing without too many encumbrances (quite apart from the relief of cutting down on weight), so I guess I had some locally made cotton clothing and light footwear; a jumper and anorak; a sleeping bag and a bivvy bag of some kind; an ice axe but no rope or crampons; some readily edible local food but (I think) no stove. The only item of baggage I really remember was my book one of Ruth Prawer Jhabvala’s novels. I had only just discovered RPJ and found her writing amusing, absorbing and perceptive of India, including parts of the society that I had barely glimpsed. It was one of the best features of travelling on my own with no strict timetable that every now and then I could settle down by a boulder with a beautiful view and read my book for as long as I liked, without being accused of irksome sloth by any impatient companion.

So one morning I strolled off down the road south from Manali town, stopped for some tea after a few miles, then struck up the hillside on a likely looking path - a local having warned me off an alternative path on account of the bears! Joining one small track to another I gradually gained height, without getting trammelled in any deep forest. (How sad, even then, the toll of overgrazing on the once wonderful forests of the Kullu valley.) Towards evening, after a good many hours of steady uphill walking, I was hailed by a group of three shepherds who were corralling their flock for the night. We chatted by their fire over a cup of tea, and they invited me to spend the night at their campsite. As our meal began to be prepared they asked me if I wanted meat. I was not very keen but not wanting to seem ungracious I agreed a little vaguely. They then sharpened a small sickle-like blade and went off among the flock, while I paid little attention to their activities. To my horror they returned with a plate of goats’ testicles swimming in blood, which were offered to me presumably as a mark of hospitality and friendship. I had never seen such food before (or since) and it took a little while for the realisation to sink in as to what I was being offered, nor was I sure how this delicacy was to be prepared. In the event the cooking was simple enough - fried in ghee with onions, garlic and chilli - and I contributed my rice in exchange. Nonplussed and embarrassed though I was I felt obliged to taste this novel food, but fortunately my hosts were happy to consume the majority. After the meal the pipe was passed around, fortunately with cool smoke and only a little charas, and the fine feeling of being high on the hillside kept my head clear.

Well fortified I continued climbing next morning and soon reached a good path that contoured for many miles, giving grand views of the Kullu valley and a clearer perspective of the ‘main’ path to the Kalihain that I ought perhaps to have followed, had I been a little more diligent in my researches. Having joined the side valley that I felt this path was likely to take I crossed a big river on an old snow bridge then got into cloud and found myself slightly lost in a terrain of steep wet hummocky grass. However animal tracks led me up, with the compass vaguely ensuring the right general direction, and eventually sheep and shepherds appeared out of the cloud. I pressed higher towards an open stony coire with old snow that looked as if it would be below the pass, and as a drizzly night approached began to encounter small groups of shepherds huddled around damp fires of juniper. Finally I rolled out my bag close to the highest of these, having shared their fire and surprised them with my cooking of noodles rather than rice. The night was very wet, but the shepherds just sat through it, while their sheep seemed to spend most of it curiously trying to work out what this.

Next day, free of the burden of driving flocks of sheep and goats, I gradually overtook the shepherds who had risen much earlier than me, and reached the stony pass in time to have it to myself for a little while. There were many prayer flags and a fresh breeze, but it was not too cold. I was filled with a great sense of peace and of being at home among these mountains - not too savage or high, all unknown to me and yet potentially reachable and enticing. When the next shepherds reached the col I watched them leave offerings of coins and chapatti and prayers at the cairns. So when I came to leave I too left a few paisa for the gods, although to my later shame I took a small piece of flag with printed Tibetan prayers and put it in my rucksack.

On the far side of the pass snow-fields led gently down. Having watched the first few flocks flow over the pass, shepherded by their hardworking dogs and the gaddis with their excellent woollen skirts, apparently untroubled by bare legs, I started down myself. After a few hours of descending gradually into a broad bare valley I came to a big, murky, side torrent, now in mid-afternoon flowing with daunting strength. The shepherds close behind me decided it was quite impossible for their flocks and turned back to spend the night higher up, but I knew that a lone shepherd ahead must have crossed only an hour or so previously, so I felt I ought to try and force a way. Several tentative attempts to cross resulted only in retreat to the bank and increased apprehension, but finally , heart in mouth, I managed to stumble across to the far bank, in water up to my thighs, and lay there drained of emotional energy as the fear subsided and my stomach unknotted.

Pressing on as evening approached I began to pass little stone huts where shepherds were lodged for the night. Each group kindly invited me to stay with them, and eventually I dropped my rucksack by one such shelter and joined a group of three gaddis. It was both physically and socially warm inside - the brotherhood of those who wander the hills overcoming the lack of common language. In the late evening I was touched at their devotion to religious rites which they went out to perform at a little shrine close by.

Early next day I bade good-bye to my hosts and continued down the valley, reaching the beginnings of the forest by mid-morning. Later I came across some impressive (if low-tech) logging operations, with trees being slid down very steep chutes into the river gorge below, where huge numbers of trunks seemed to be piling up. I was surprised to find this industry so far from any road and with such a long river journey ahead for the logs (through at least 40 km of gorges of the Ravi), and I couldn’t help wondering how well the timber extraction was being monitored by forest conservation officers. Having watched my fill of forest industry I began to feel the pull of ‘civilisation’ and wound my way down to Bara Bangahal. Here I was rapidly removed from my first potential hosts at the lower end of the village, and taken under the wing of a young man, Ram Lal, who perhaps wanted to give me hospitality for the prestige this might bring him among the villagers. His mother was a wonderful old lady, very heavily bejewelled, and kindness itself in spite of the offhand treatment she received from her son. The next day Ram Lal showed me all around the village, introducing me to the local big-wigs and taking me to festivities where, in spite of mist and rain, the women sat outside singing communally.

After my rest day I was quite keen to press on again, so with many thanks I said farewell to Ram Lal a mile or so outside the village and continued northwards up the Laluni nala. I was tempted by the Sili or Tapni Laluni glaciers, not only for their picturesque names but because they seemed more interesting on the map; however they also looked to give steeper and more serious mountaineering, so in the end I opted for the Shah nala. Passing through some sections of very dense vegetation near the river I gradually climbed up on the northeast side of the nala and reached a shepherd’s hut towards dark. Again I was made very welcome. My host had a B.A. - a revelation of the high level of education in India, and the shortage of suitable graduate employment. While admitting the superficiality of judgement based on a fleeting visit, my sense was that for such as my host the peace of the mountains and the purposefulness of shepherds’ work made up somewhat for the loneliness, relative lack of comfort and (perhaps) low prestige of the job.

Above the hut the Shah glacier rose long and gentle to a rocky col at perhaps 5000 m, which I reached around mid afternoon. I was now well off the beaten track and the bristly rocks of the col had several potential gaps where the pass might be. To my dismay the north side was steep and icy and at first glance not feasible with my rudimentary footwear and equipment. After an hour of hesitations and false starts I finally committed myself to a narrow gully with intermittent rocks and sods protruding from the ice and snow. The first few feet felt tenuous in the extreme, conscious as I was of a vast drop below and a total lack of protection. But very fortunately after 30 or 40 feet the ground became more rocky and the icy bits could be more easily avoided. Thrilled at having overcome the col I climbed rapidly down, keen to get off the steep slopes before dark. It became one of those rare times when you climb as though inspired, every move goes right and by some uncanny instinct you sense the true features of the mountain. Though there was a large rocky buttress below me, quite steep in places, somehow I found a way down unerringly through chimneys and corners, and finally stepped onto a narrow moraine-covered glacier with still an hour or two of light remaining. With many a happy and astonished glance back up to where I had come from I raced across the glacier to a lateral moraine on the far side, revelling in the relief of safety and the gradually unfolding views of the mountains in this northern side of the col. There was a terrific satisfaction in fast and free movement along the moraine, with a marvellous cirque ahead all to myself to explore. I laid myself down by an overhanging boulder soon after dark but was so energised by my day and inspired by the clear sparkling night sky that I slept only lightly and rose early.

A few hours down the valley led to sunshine and a much needed wash in a slaty side. Then my first encounter with shepherds on this side - still asleep, though their dogs awoke as I approached. Over tea we talked about my pass, which clearly wasn’t suitable for sheep, and I discovered that they used a crossing further west, probably coming from Kugti. Knowing that I would reach villages that day I gladly left them all my supplies of tea and sugar, and continued down expecting an uneventful descent to the Chandrabhaga. However the dramas were not quite over, for my valley narrowed and steepened and I found that the path I had chosen led me alongside a constructed watercourse that fed the villages below. Without thinking I followed this too far, only to find that it began to cross steeper and blanker pieces of rock, with the wooden gutter far too flimsy to trust my weight to. I found myself having to do some very exposed traverses before finally abandoning the water channel and regaining a more sensible path below the cliffs. Towards mid-afternoon I reached the first Lahauli villages, so different from those of Kullu I had left a week previously. Here trees were scarce and the houses were of mud, not wood. People were more scarce too, and maybe a bit more reserved. A pleasant walk along the Chandrabhaga led to a bridge, and to complete my good fortune a bus shortly arrived to take me to Keylong, where I was able to relax and enjoy a day in the quiet bazaars and monasteries of Lahaul’s tiny capital.

Although the trip had been of no mountaineering significance, for me it had encapsulated many of the best aspects of travelling in the Himalaya - the wonderful variety of gorge, forest, upland and glacier; the uncertainties and pleasures of route finding; and not least the human contact with such a variety of hospitable shepherds.

Summary : A trek (in 1980) to the unfrequented Bara Bangahal area, Himachal Pradesh.

 

 

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AS ALWAYS THIS year too we decided to explore some new area of the Himalaya. An article in the Himalayan Journal Vol 50, ‘Crossroads in Spiti’ and some valuable tips from Harish Kapadia the author, helped us to decide on our objective. We decided on Kangla Tarbo (6315 m), the highest peak in western Spiti. On 20 August 1996 we left for Kullu from where we planned to proceed to Kaja. After some delays due to landslides we finally left on the 26th reaching there the next day. We immediately proceed towards the Pin valley and were deposited at Mikim on the confluence of the Pin and Parahio rivers. We established a transit camp opposite the Sagnam village on the banks of the Parahio. A bridge is being constructed linking the Mikim and Sagnam villages. We left for Thango on the 30th following the right bank on the Parahio. Thango was a small village of 3 houses. We stayed the night at a small house used by the Wild Life Institute of India and The Smithsonian Institute to study the Ibex. Here we found out that Kangla Tarbo is worshipped as a God by people of the valley, so we did not mention our plans to them.

About 3 km ahead of the village we reached a point where the Debsa nala and the Khamengar metthe Parahio. The muleteer dumped our loads as there was no bridge and the river was in full flow. We moved further west on the right bank and about 3 km ahead we established the base camp at 4200 m. Next day the leader Gopal Roy and the deputy leader left for a recce. On 1 September we proceeded 5 km ahead on the banks of a nala coming from the south and on reaching this point we decided to go along in the same nala as we could see a twin headed peak connected by a ridge to the other side of the nala. A further recce and some map reading showed us that the peakwas indeed Kangla Tarbo, and that it was possible to attempt the peak from the nala itself which met the Khamengar about 50 m ahead. We established ABC at this spot.

On the 2nd morning all members left for ABC , we crossed an ice bridge and then followed a narrow gully which lead to ice field. We could see only one peak and then realized that the two peaks were of different heights, one at 6315 m and the other 200 m lower. We were now at 5300 m and placed camp beside a boulder zone. Next day was a little cloudy so we decided to immediately make an attempt on the peak.3 members and one porter began climbing towards the peak. They followed a nala just above camp on its left bank and then hit a steep rock wall where a small rockfall injured the leader. The deputy leader instructed the other two to carry on. The weather turned bad by now. At 2 p.m. they got on to the shoulder of the northwest ridge of the smaller peak and reached the top of Kangla Tarbo II (c. 6100 m ). After staying at the top for 30 minutes they tried to find a way to the top of the main peak but found it impossible to achieve it on the same day. They returned to camp by 8 p.m. The team then returned to the base camp and proceed back to Manali as scheduled.

Summary : The first ascent of Kangla Tarbo II (c. 6100 m), in the Khamengar valley, western Spiti. The Indian team from Bengal climbed the peak on 2 September 1996.

 

 

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UNLIKE THE MOST frequently climbed peaks in the Nun-Kun group, Tanak (5810 m) was still a virgin peak. Profiting from an experience gained during the last programme, we organised an expedition tackle this peak with the purpose to provide young climbers greater exposure and to build confidence on them. The team consisted of 6 members half of whom were first timers. Showkat Hussain Mir assumed the responsibility of overall leadership with Mohd Amin as deputy leader.

The expedition left Srinagar on 5 August 1996. Our bus plied through Sonamarg (Golden Meadow, the main refreshing stage in the way) to Kargil. By 6.p.m. we were blocked on the Zoji la (3530 m)- the only road between Kashmir and Leh. Some trucks heavily laden had been out of order at the height which had brought the road to a standstill.

At ‘Captain Mode’ where our bus was detained, distant alps and snowy mountains, rugged precipices, previously hidden from the eyes were now seen. Beneath was the placid stream wending its way through the peaceful Baltal valley. Night inside the bus was cold and uncomfortable. Next day we arrived at Kargil.

As the day long journey proceeded from Kargil to Suru tantalising glimpses of the eastern aspect of the mountains were seen and one had particularly good view of Nun-Kun peaks as the road swung northward. The stupendous panorama of the Nun, the granite peaks and mighty range of seracs were viewed with amazement. The last halt before the beginning of the trek was at Parchakker-lying directly opposite the massive range.

When we reached Tangol, two energetic Balti porters Mohd Hussain Ansari and Mohd Ali Ansari were waiting for us to carry our extra load to the BC. The trekking beyond the roadhead involved a long detour and a steep climb about 3700 m. On the way we passed through village of Gor Tangol-the village of mud and wattle huts largely inhabited by Balti Muslims of Shia sect with their orthodox and superstitious traditions and outlook.

We had a steep ascent from the very start and as a resu lt were fatigued. After climbing a short but steep stretch we came upon an undulating U-shaped valley strewn with sharp-edged rocks and large boulders, unspoilt and seldom visited by mountaineers. It is a wide glaciated valley with a flat ground about 2 km long with Tanak glaciers lowering at its head. It was now dusk. We made reconnaissance hikes along the moraine of the glacier to locate the most ideal site for BC. Finally at the altitude of 4500 m south of the main lateral moraine of the glacier. We set up our base camp tents by the side of a fresh water stream with a cooking area adjacent to a large boulder.

10th August was cheerful. A team of 6 members set out from BC at 8.30 a. m. leaving all the baggage in the custody of porters who had very little knowledge of the peak and its approaches. We carried with us a days emergency food items.

Traversing a steep moraine, we reached the beginning of the east ridge. The slope led to the southeast ridge. It is a complicated ridge of mixed snow and rock. About half way up there is a prominent rock band. One had to tackle the rock-band and a snow gully before we could reach the heavily corniced summit ridge. We roped up keeping freshers at the tail end and cut steps in the ice and were proceeding steadily up.

It was the middle of the afternoon and we still had a several hours’ climbing ahead of us to reach the summit. The last part of the steep summit ridge was hard, horribly corniced and exposed. We continued slowly towards the summit which was formed by a huge cornice.

It took us 2 hours to reach the summit at 5.15 p.m. Six of us reached the summit of this superb unclimbed peak. Soon the sun dropped below the distant Barmal mountains to the west.

Next day we stripped down the BC and started the way back to Pannikhar. In the way we observed Rheum webbianum, Allium atropurpureum in abundant. Hanief even collected some of the species. Approaching Gor Tangol we also saw Marmots (Aretomys Candatis).

By afternoon we reached Pannikhar and halted at the Tourist Bungalow. Pannikhar through primitive, was unsurpassed in the mountainscape the rugged beauty of its rocky escarpments and the splendour of the snow covered peaks. It lies in the inner Himalayan range where the winds saturated with moisture do not reach. It is the meeting place of three routes. One on the north goes to Kargil, one on the west goes to Kashmir and the other leads to Zanskar.

We crossed a bridge over a major tributory and trekked along the right bank of the nala. On the way we were caught in the storm. The torrential rain with gusts of icy wind drenched us to the skin. Reaching Donara our halting stage one had to criss-cross a gushing stream coming from Mooskhul pass which joins with another stream here.

On 13 August we started from Donara late, at 11 a.m. Began to ascend the undulating surface overthe sharp boulders and sand, over the ice-tongues at the foot of the glacier. The crevasses were dangerous. The surface of the glacier was full of crevasses, hence it needed careful negotiation. With the route almost non-existent we travelled on scree and rock till we came to Bobang Gali (4800 m) which separates Kashmir from the Suru valley.

At 3.30 p.m. we started descending. The path goes a long the left over the shifting sand, over boulders and debris of rock till we descended to the northern part of the Bhotkol glacier. It is a plateau of blue ice several hundred feet thick. In front of us were the crevasses in hundreds. The glacier in the basin required care as it is criss-crossed by enormous deep crevasses with narrow mouth covered with snow. On our left were Barmal glaciers gorgeous in sight. After a long hard day the party reached Kanital near Haji Wali’s doka and installed our tents in the darkness at uneven place. This partof the journey was undoubtely the toughest of the entire expedition. Night was starry but cold.

Next day cautiously crossing the boulder-strewn decayed moraine and strema lets we came to a vast camping place of Humpet. Dotted with shrubs, limited firewood and fodder was available. Opposite Humpet lies Drobagam once being a hamlet of Baltis but now only signs of the terraces of cultivated fields are left.

Towards the end of the valley the meadows transform into gorges as we descended towards Sukhniz. The glacial landscape fast disappeared giving place to birch (Betula utilis) treeline. By now the weather had turned bad. There were dark clouds in the sky. Crossing over snow bridge over white torrent at Wankadal, the path turned to left of the river-superb for white water rafting. The last stretch to the village was hard.

The valley of Wardwon was exceedingly picturesque and secluded; its extent was nearly 18 km in length and not more than 3 km in breadth; it contains 15 hamlets. In the right side of the Bhotkol river lies Sukhniz, Basmin, Chodraman, Branian, Bula-Wardwon and Bot; on the left are Rikenwas, Gumber, Marg, Afti, Kuzuz Mangil, Inshin, Wardwon and last Drassabal. This valley was separated from the plains of Kashmir by a wooded ridge of hills and the craggy peaks and precipices of Sonasar rise directly behind the village at its foot.

Sukhniz (2750 m) was a small colony of 45 cholas at the head of the Wardwon valley. The huts are made of uneven wooden planks joined together by notches. Nothing is known of the men who centuries ago first ventured across this wilderness in search of trade or shelter. One of the legends goes that the ancestors of the present generation of Wardwon were heard to had migrated to this valley in order to escape from forced labour. This was a peculiar custom which had rendered the peasants to a class of slaves. As Kashmirfell into the hands of unscrupulous conquerors and tyrants, payments to coolies was not made and the custom of forced labour was in force. The labourers were forced to take supplies for no payment from Kashmir to Gilgit and Skardu in winter also.

The following day we allotted loads to porters and left for Purmandal and followed the right bank of the Niur stream. The path goes in moderate ascents and descents. The whole place was covered with floral vegetation.

Purmandal was at the hand of the Sukhniz ravine. It is a nice camping ground. Two glacier stream meet here; one from the north and other from the west. We reached the foot of the Sonasar pass. The ascent of 400 m of the last sharp portions of the pass consisted of boulders, loose shale and sand, was severe on account of the difficulty in breathing. We reached at the top of Sonasar Gullu (4940 m) at 5.15 p.m. The top gave a magnificent view of the Zanskar range to the east and Kolahoi to the west. The descent was largely done by sliding down snow slope. It was late and there was complete darkness. We had to camp at Sonasar lake. The next day we hurried down by Amarnath pilgrim route to Pahalgam. On 20 August, we arranged a bus and arrived in Srinagar.

Kashmir Mountaineering Team Route

Members : Aijaz Ahmed Sheikh, Javid Ahmed and Mohd Hanief (all summitters).

Others : Showkan Hussain Mr. Mohamed Amin (deputy leader), Ashok Kumar, Hafiz-ulla, Auter Kris- hen and Gulzar Ahmed.

Summary: The first ascent of Tanak (5810 m) by a team from Kashmir on 10 August 1996. The team returned by a new route.

 

 

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DESTINATION OF THE expedition was to climb Shakhaur (7116 m) by a new, safe route from the northern Udren glacier.

The members of the expedition were the leader Alfred Fendt (42 - Germany) and Gerhard Gritsch (26 - Osterreich).

The team reached Islamabad on 6 August 1996 and was able to go on 8 August after completing the administration formalities via Dir and Lowari top to Chitral, reaching Zundragram in the Tirich valley on 9 August The approach march with 10 porters lead within 3 days from Shagrom (2800 m), the Atak Gol, the Udren valley, the Lopar Gol, the eastern moraine of Udren Darban glacier and the Northern Udren glacier to base camp (4630 m). On the same day the team crossed the Udren glacier westward, to get a view to the western slope of the Udren Zom and Shakhaur mass and to look for possible routes. Over the whole time avalanches passed the route of the Austrian climbers and the Italian expedition of 1991 via the serac area of the south glacier of Koh-e-Nadir Shah and showed the enourmous objective danger of this route. The crew decided therefore to explore the pillar on the west ridge of Udren Zom.

On 14 August a deposit for equipment was installed at the beginning of a great couloir at 5000 m. After climbing snow and ice-couloirs (upto 550) and poor rock ridges (upto 3 grade) the team reached a suitable place for Camp 1 on a rock nose (5620 m). After a stormy night in the advanced base camp the descent to base camp followed. After a break of two days the team decided to try the final climb in alpine style.

After a night stay at the beginning of the snow-couloir (5000 m) Camp 1 could be reached on the early noon of the 21 August. In the afternoon the great glacier plateau between Koh-e-Nadir Shah, Shakhaur and Udren Zom (6000 m) could be reached. (ice upto 500, rock climb upto III). The night was spent again in Camp 1.

After reaching the plateau in the late morning of the 22 August the team crossed the plateau to north, because the way to the col between Shakhaurand Udren Zomwasthreatened byavalanches and serac-falls from Udren Zom north slope. The team spent the time of extreme heat at noon in the tent and continued the climb in the late afternoon to a safe place sheltered by a crevasse under the col between Koh-e-Nadir Shah and Shakhaur and settled Camp 2 (6220 m). The final climb followed on 23 August via the col and the smooth west ridge of Shakhaur without technical difficulties. The top was reached on 11 a .m. (Gritsch/ Fendt), Camp 2 at 2 p.m. The way back to base camp could be reached with all equipment on 24 August.

With 6 porters the team returned within two days (28-29 August) on the approach march route to Shag ron and after a short exploration trekking to Roshgol valley, reaching Chitral on 1 September and Islamabad on 3 September.

Although the monsoon lasted two months longer than usual and continuous snowfall occurred in the southern chains of the Hindu Kush the weather conditions in the border line ridges were usually pleasant beside unusual storms from southeast. The route was mostly safe and can be recommended especially to small expeditions.

Summary: An ascent of Shakhaur (7116 m) by a two-member German team on 23 August 1996 by west ridge pillar route.

 

 

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OUR EXPEDITION WAS composed of Kiyokatsu Saito, leader, Kazushige Honda, Kentarou Tanaka, Osamu Sanpei,Toru Shimizu, Sotoru Henmi. We left Chitral on 30 July, 1995 and travelled to Phargam by jeep. We walked to the Kulakmari falls and construct base camp below the falls at 4000 m on 1 August we climbed 500 m high rock wall on the left bank of the falls in the next 3 days to get to the end of the Khorabohrt glacier. The lower and middle sections of this rock wall were of compact granite, but upper part covered by glacial talus breccia.

On 4 August we placed Camp 1 at the lower of the glacier (4750 m) on 6 August proceed to Camp 2 (5120 m). On the way to the Camp 2, we first looked at the peak of Buni Zom (6551 m) and reconnoitred our route. West ridge looked to be jagged and of loose and shattered granite, so we decided to climb up the glacier, to approach via the north ridge of the peak which was used by the first ascent party of New Zealand in 1957 (The New Zealand Alpine Journal 1958). After 2 days rest in base camp, on 10 August, we climbed to Camp 2. In next 2 days we climbed a steep ice wall (400 m) extending to the col between the main and north peak of Buni Zom, to get to Camp 3 on a ice shelf at 5900 m. On 13 August Saito Sanpei and Henmi attempted to reach 6100 m on the north ridge of the main peak but were foiled by a lack of climbing gear. This ridge was narrow and mixed, of rocks and huge cornices (especially between 6200- 6500 m). So we turned to reach to the top of north peak (6338 m) at 9.00 a.m. via an easy snow climb. On 20 August, after 7 days from the first attempt, Saito, Henmi and Honda tried again, but floundered desperately in deep snow on the narrow ridg and were prevented by bad conditions (avalanche-prone) of snowy traversed route of a horn below the summit at 6400 m.

Summary: An Japanese attempt on Buni Zom (6551 m) in August 1995. Buni Zom North (6338 m) was climbed on 13 August 1995 by two members. Attempts on the main peak via the north ridge failed.

Photos 32-33

 

 

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THE WEATHER IN the Himalaya mountains is controlled by the monsoon regime from June through September and by concentrations of population on earth. The run-off pattern, its timing and intensity from the Himalaya, is governed by the quantity and distribution of precipitation, its form (solid or liquid) and seasonality. The heaviest rainfall of the summer monsoon occurs along the eastern Himalaya and produces strongest effects on rivers such as the Brahmaputra and Ganges. In contrast, toward the west the predominance of summer monsoon rain decreases and the importance of winter snowfall increases, thus the flow of the Indus is mainly sustained by snowmelt and by ablation of glaciers, whereas the flows in the Ganga and Brahmaputra rivers is sustained by runoff components of snowmelt, ablation the westerlies from November through March. The vegetation patterns in the Himalayan valleys reflect that it is much wetter on slopes and ridges and drier along the valley bottoms. This is attributed to the tendency of subsidence over the valleys in the slope wind circulation. If the observing stations are located in valleys, wind system many result in underestimation of precipitation.

The Gangotri glacier, in the Bhagirathi basin in the Ganga headwaters is facing environmental degradation on a massive scale. The growing human activity in the vicinity of glacier demands for more hotels and related infrastructure in the region leading to clearing of already denuded forest cover. In the downward spiral effects of deforestation came erosion of mountain slopes already unstable because of continued orogenic activity. The sediments yields are enhanced by monsoon rain occurring simultaneously with snow and glacier melt runoff. Burning of wood, to a certain extent, contributing towards increased CO concentrations in the atmosphere. Hence the climate variation and anthropogenic activity have excerbated environmental degradation in the Gangotri glacier region. This may lead to long term effects on the glacier-nourished run-off in the Bhagirathi river.

The Himalayan mountain system is the source of one of the world’s largest supply for fresh water. The major river systems flowing through this mountain system include the Indus, Ganges, and the Brahmaputra. Their waters sustain one of the greatest of glaciers, and monsoon rainfall.

After eighteen years painstaking efforts the Glaciology Division, Geological Survey of India, has compiled the inventory of the glaciers in the Indian part of the Himalaya. According to C. P. Vohra, former Director General of the Geological Survey of India under whose leadership the work was done, says that the glaciers cover an area of 38,039 km2, broadly divided into three river basins- Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra on the Indian side of the Himalaya. The Indus basin has the largest number of glaciers - 3538, followed by the Ganga basin 1020 and Brahmaputra 662. The glaciers are situated in five states – Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Sikkim, and Arunanchal Pradesh. Kashmir has the largest concentration with 3136 glaciers covering 32,000 km2, nearly 13 per cent of the state’s territory. The average size of a glacier in the state is 10.24 km². Nine per cent of U.P. Himalaya are covered by 917 glaciers which extend 3550 km2. Sikkim has 450 glaciers spread over 912 km². The average size is 1.59 km². Arunanchal Pradesh has 162 glaciers covering 228 km². The average size is 1.41 km².

*Printed with the kind permission of editor, School of Evironmental Sciences Journal, J. N. University, New Delhi.

It has been estimated by researchers that about 17 per cent of the Himalaya and 37 per cent of Karakoram is presently under permanent ice cover. The principal glaciers of the Himalaya are Siachen 72 km, Gangotri 26 km, Zemu 26 km, Milam 19 km, and Kedarnath 14.5 km.

The Gangotri glacier in the Garhwal Himalaya is the source of the Ganga. The most sacred river in Hindu mythology and considered a bridge between death and rebirth. The Gaumukh (snout) of the glacier is situated at an elevation of 4000 m. The glacier has been visited for centuries by pilgrims. Grieshbach (1891) sketched the snout during the course of his geological traverses in the region. Marco Pallis (1933) was the first to climb a peak within the Gangotri basin. Survey of India under the leadership of J. C. Ross mapped the snout along with J. B. Auden, of Geological Survey of India in 1934. Auden (1935) stated that the glacier must have receded by 740 m during the last century and in the earlier times might have descended to at least Gangotri town and may be even as far down as Jangla. The glacier has been since then visited by various expeditions by the Geological Survey of India namely, Jangpang, 1958, Tewari, 1967, Vohra, 1971, Puri, 1974-75, 1975-76, 1976-77, 1989-90. These expeditions focused on the geomorphology, mass balance, ice flow movement, sedimentological studies and the retreat of the glacier. Tewari (1967) concluded that the glacier since Auden surveyed it in 1935 had retreated by almost 600 m. Vohra in 1971 took an inter-department scientific expedition on the glacier under the aegis of India Committee for International Hydrological Decade.

Recession of the Gangotri glacier

The observation conducted by the Geological Survey of India since 1835 has reported the recessional trend of this glacier.

Table 1.1 : Recession of Gangotri Glacier since 1935.

Sahai (1992) has reported that the glacier vacated an area of 0.243 km² during the last fifty years (1935- 1990). The annual rate of area vacated by the glacier between 1935 and 1971 (36 years) was 8.77 per cent and in the next six years (1971-1977)this value goes upto 10.4 per cent. It is, however striking that in the last thirteen years (1977- 1990) the area vacated was exceptionally high 80.8 per cent. Perhaps serious ecological imbalances coupled with increased human activity have caused its recession during the last three decades.

Sahai (1992) has reported that the Geological Survey of India has carried out glaciological studies pertaining to mass balance on Tipra Bank (1980-1988) and Dunagiri glacier 1984 to 1991 in the Ganga basin. Mention of similar studies on the Gangotri glacier is also found in the available literature.

Mass balance is an important glaciological parameter as the deviations from steady state mass balance conditions cause a dynamic response of the glacier, resulting in a change of flow rate, leading finally to an advance or retreat of the glacier terminus. These effects also induce the formation of moraines and other morphological features, which allow delineation of the former extent of glaciers.

Hydrological processes

The quantity and timing of discharge in Bhagirathi river with snow and ice melt components of runoff depend therefore on amount, incidence and form (liquid or solid) of precipitation, and on the thermal regime which determines the amount of winter snowpack available and of the melting of perennial ice throughout summer in these basins which are glacierised. The timing and intensity of monsoonal rain storm also determines the shapes of the hydrograph.

A six month discharge (May to November 1994) hydrograph obtained on Dokriani glacier, a small glacier in the Bhagirathi river headwaters has shown that the maximum flows take place in early July when the transient snowline retreats rapidly, however between middle July and September the glacier melt rate is reduced because of extensive cloud cover over the entire elevation range of the Garhwal Himalaya. But the flows are partially compensated by the monsoonal precipitation. This type of behavior in the discharge pattern is characteristic of the southern Himalayan glaciers where monsoonal rains are widespread.

Table 1: Retreat of important Glaciers in the Himalaya.

 

Table 2. Principal glacier-fed river system of the Himalaya

 

Himalayan Glaciers as a Sustainable Water Resource

The perennial rivers of the Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra river system drain the fertile agricultural plans of the north, northeast and northwest part of Indian Sub-continent are mainly snow and glaciers melt - fed. The first systematic hydrological studies on proglacial streams were carried out be Kanwar Sain (1946). However, the most noteworthy work was done by Gulati (1973), who delineated the glacierized areas in 20 major rivers having their catchments in the Himalaya). Aside from these studies no serious efforts have been made to investigate the impact of Himalayan glaciers on the hydrological regime and climate of North India.

In view of frequent flooding and drought problems the Department of Sciences and Technology of the Government of India evolved in 1985 a national coordinated project for the detailed study of glaciers on the southern slopes on the Himalaya. The main objective of this programme is to establish a comprehensive data base on all the important glaciers in the major river basins. A central part of this project to study the hydrological and hydrochemical aspects of meltwater. The information on meltwater yield, its chemical and sediment characteristics is vital to the safety and maintenance of the hydroelectric installations and reservoirs in the outer and inner Himalaya. Recently it was observed that the Bakhra Nangal reservoir was overdrawing from the ice resources of the Satluj by 10 per cent to 13 per cent of the river flow; from this observation it was concluded that the rate at which the glaciers are melting may lead to their disappearance in future, destroying the ecology of the area and permanently drying out the perennial rivers (Hasnain, 1989).

The climate and meteorology of the Himalaya controls the water resources. If you look at the entire area from the far eastern Himalaya to the far western Karakoram, you find that the monsoon diminishes in intensity and duration as you traverse from east to west. And concomitantly the importance of snow and ice increases from east to west. There are regional and vertical difference in the hydrological regimes of the Himalaya with strong seasonality of precipitation. For example in the eastern Himalaya the summer monsoon causes snowfall at the higher elevations and ice ablation at the lower elevation simultaneously.

Glaciers in the Himalaya, are sustainable sources of fresh water. While every summer large quantities of meltwater flows from them every winter fresh snow is added. The permanent reservoir of glacier ice is enormous in the Himalaya, therefore, a detailed data base in required on seasonal and permanent ice cover along with establishment of a hydrometric network with measurement of climatic variable over the range of elevations in which the fusion of snow and ice occurs. The principal scientific issues to b focussed in future studies are :

1. What are the seasonal variations in the amounts of run-off derived from the melting snow and ice?
2. How much do the timing and magnitudes of seasonal variations of run-off change from year to year, and in response to what synoptic climatic conditions?
3. Which hydrometeorological variable at which measurement station are best related to run-off variations and this will be used to predict variations in meltwater flows?
4. What delay arises within glacierised basins between melt production and discharge at the glacier terminus?

Summary: A study of Himalayan glaciers and their effect on the climate.

 

 

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WHEN DAVID CRAIG and I started planning the first festival, on our 1987 journey to climb of sea cliffs of Anglesey in North Wales, we wanted to include some elements that have remained central to the experience I have tried to provide at every festival over the last ten years. The celebration of new work was the original impulse and perhaps we can be forgiven if that new work was our own. Nobody else was going to arrange readings from David’s now classic book Native Stones or my first collection of poetry The Stone Spiral. Being climbers, we were imbued with the spirit of ‘Just do it’ In the event I only read one poem from my own collection as an introduction to inviting other poets in the audience to read a poem of their own. (Ten years later I could invite David to read from his new book Landmarks. But fear of cries of Foul! prevented my programming a reading from my own latest collection, The Rope, even though every poem was a climbing poem.) We were also aware of the imminent return to England of Ed Drummond and rumours about a book being on the way from him (A Dream of White Horses), so we invited him to do his poetry reading performance whilst up the pole (actually three poles - a 40 ft high tripped with a small platform at the top).

Women’s writing about climbing was even rarer in those days than it is now and we wanted to offer encouragement to it, so we invited Marjorie Mortimer to give us what turned out to be an amusing mocking talk about what she called ‘The Mine is Bigger Than Yours’ display in men’s climbing writing. We have always had at least one women speaking at the festival – and memorable contributions they have been, such as Jill Lawrence’s feminist analysis of the climate of magazine publishing for women climbers followed by octogenarian Janet Adam Smith on the same bill saying stridently, ‘Well, I’ve never experienced and drawbacks in being a women!’ We could quite believe that this was true in Janet’s case, if not for her argument in general. Another memorable combination was the late Alison Hargreaves and Alison Osius, Senior Editor at Climbing Whilst visiting from the USA to talk about writing profiles of mountaineers, Alison Osius actually writing what was to the last profile of Alison Hargreaves, a tribute the festival was pleased to have made possible.

We have always felt that the festival should be fun if climbers are giving up a whole Saturday to talking about it instead of doing it. (This must be the only festival in the world that prays for rain.) At our first event Mike Mortiner gave us a quiz to test our knowledge of the literature. This was wittily devised and is published (with the answers, of course) in the book of the festival papers from the first five years, Orogenic Zones, published by Bretton Hall College¹. The fourth festival featured a play devised by local school students using a specially erected climbing wall. For one festival Rosic Smith and Celia Bull revived some of Tom Patey’s songs and for another they wrote their own. Among the more bizarre ideas to inject a little fun into the festival was one which arose out of a pu conversation with young hot-shot Johnny Dawes who had just sat his final exams at university and was enthusing about what a buzz they had been. So, when people ordered their tickets for the sixth festival they were invited to set an exam question for Dawes. At the opening of the festival he was given the exam paper of 14 questions from the audience and sent away to write an answer to one of them for a reading three hours later. He chose the question ‘My first time’ and duly returned to carry off the reading of his paper with characteristic imagination, wit and flare. This will be published in the next book of festival papers. On two occasions humorist Steve Ashton has given theatrical performance which have taken the audience by surprise. At the tenth festival be was a climber in a mental hospital in conversation with his therapist. This was both very funny and extremely moving at the same time. The text will be published in his forthcoming book Fear of Falling.

 

The fourth element of the first festival that has been a cornerstone of our planning has been controversy and debate. Dave Cook’s lecture at the first festival throw out a challenge to mountaineering literature to be more inclusive (of women, young activists, climbers from minority ethnic groups, foreign literature), more connected to climbers ‘wider lives (as workers, lovers, and political, even musical creatures) and more expressively experimental in form. We have regularly commissioned new poetry, from the brother of Colin Kirkus, septuagenarian Guy Kirkus, for example, and from the festival’s popular discovery, the young feminist climbing poet Kym Martindale. We have also tried to commission new work from younger climbers. 14 year-old Chris Briggs, who read his poem ‘Doomsville’ at the fifth festival, holds the record. At the tenth festival, bold young activist Paul Pritchard took the audience by storm with his writing about the Llanberis rock climbing scene with the result that publisher Ken Wilson was not talking about if he was publishing Paul’s book, but when he will be publishing Deep Play as it will be titled.

Debate has been lively each year following the adjudication speech by the Chair of the Boardman Tasker judges. This is the only public opportunity to hear this speech and to hear the winning writer read from his or her book a month after the press announcement at the London Alpine Club. By this time opinions have formed about the judgement and views can be aired in the presence, of the Boardman and Tasker families, who can experience the seriousness with which this award is covered by writers and publishers in the audience, to say nothing of the seriousness with which the bibliophiles in the audience hold opinions about their reading of the literature. Of course, one ought to say that a specialist book shop run by Jarvis Books of Matlock, does a good trade in providing books to be signed by writers present for the day.

Finally, the international dimension, which was begun in a unique and topical manner by Waclaw Sonelki’s lecture on ‘Climbing in Poland Under Communism’, has produced a series of authoritative papers on the mountaineering literature of France from Anne Sauvy, and of Italy from Mirella Tenderini. Allen Stock gave us an insight into the secrets of keeping up the innovative standards of Ascent. Much of this seemed to do with Ascents having its own wine label. More recently from the USA Mikel Vause has shared with us his Ph. D. research into mountaineering literature (Of Men and Mountain) and Pe Sinclair, who developed his thinking about access to wilderness after writing We Aspired, came back last year simply to sit in the audience because he had found the festival so much fun.

Despite the international stars who have talked about their writings like Chris Bonington, Doug Scott, Kurt Diemberger and Stephen Venables, it has sometimes been the old-timers like Tom Weir from Scotland, or the unexpected discoveries such as Irish storyteller Dermot Somers and retired Hodder and Stoughton editor Maggie Body, who have stolen the show. Indeed, the unpredictability of the event is perhaps part of charm. I hope this does not suggest that the organisation itself is unpredictable. We pride ourselves on running an event where things happen on time and, with very little actual sponsorship income, on keeping ticket prices as low as possible. A number of people have been stalwart supporters of the festival throughout the years. The late and hugely missed Paul Nunn, especially in the early days, lent our discussions his idiosyncratic wisdom and widely respected authority. Jim Curran has always been on hand to debunk any pretensions or drop his papers on the floor and reshuffle them for his talk. Ian Smith has annually rehearsed his very professional reading from the winners of the Festival/High magazine writing competition. In addition I should mention that we open an exhibition of original mountain paintings as a break from the festivals intense pace through one hectic day. I like to think that it is part of the festivals functions to offer hospitality to visiting luminaries, such as the Editor of this esteemed journal, so that they are able to honour the festival with their presence whilst they may be attending events elsewhere in the UK.

For the future, we hope to continue in much the same spirit, assisting if we can the development of similar mountain literature festivals in other countries, as we have done at Banff, Canada and at Passy, France, There new activities are due to spring from the Bretton Hall festival in the near future. We are hoping to recruit candidates for research degrees in this under- researched field and would welcome enquires. It hoped that we can offer creative writing fellowships for short residential courses with mountaineering writers to be located in a mountain region. 1997 will see the start of a mountain film festival to follow on the Sunday after the Saturday Literature Festival.

Dave Cook’s first polemical lecture at our opening event has become a manifesto for the festival and a standard by which we can evaluate ourselves each year. Dave Cook concluded by quoting the Lake District poet Norman Nicholson with a quotation that is a useful reminder of why we are writing and reading about our sport. ‘Mountains should not serve as an escape from reality. They are surely an escape back to reality.’

Summary: Terry Gifford is the Director, of The International Festival of Mountaineering Literature, which organised at the Bretton Hall College of Leeds University, England. The article recalls ten years of the ‘International Festival of Mountaineering Literature’.

 

 

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Lingshot monastery is high, rock-girt, remote. It’s four
long days from the nearest jeepable road, and closed-
off from the outside world for eight months of the year
by snow on the high passes. Here we found monks engaged
on a task that blows the Western mind. They are constructing
a picture so intricate as to defy description, yet so fragile
that a gust of wind could destroy it all. And when, after
long months of construction, it is finished in time for the
harvest, celebrations, it will be disassembled with the
same consummate patience and skill. Meanwhile it challenges
us all, as:

Something Beautiful for God

A shaft of evening sunlight spills across the floor,
Illuminates a marble slab, intricately incised,
Around which shaven-headed monks prostrate themselves
Foursquare about a growing pictogram; the wheel of life
Reels in bright colours
here before our eyes
As in a trance of perfect concentration,
They tap out grain on bright-hued grain of sand:
Here mounds are raised to emphasise a form;
Here little troughs of sand delineate
An animal or bird, a Boddhisattva or a cloud -

Day after day the mandala develops,
Emerging from its darkroom fixing-bath,
Revealing patterns preordained since time began:
Days of concentration, trickling sand without pause,
Selecting colours from their bold pallete:
Vermilion, ultramarine, emerald and indigo,
Sparkling like crushed gems culled from distant lands.

What does it signify? Time’s passage in a sand-clock -
And the cruel impermanence of this fragile artefact?
With what should we compare the labours of these monks
Who for a thousand years have thus expressed devotion?
They leave no great cathedrals, no illuminated books,
Yet their art too touches the infinite,
Exemplifies beyond the ephemeral world,
The striving of the impermanent towards the permanent.

The shaft to light moves imperceptibly,
And imperceptibly the mandala expands,
To fill its ordained pattern on the floor
And so become what it was meant to be.
My life, too, flows inexhorably on,
Leaving what imprint on its desert sand?
So should I, too, ensure that each unsullied day
Turns into 'something beautiful for God.'

Lingshot
6 August 1996.

 

 

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