Himalayan Journal vol.44
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.44

Publication year:
1988

Editor:
Soli S. Mehta
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. MOUNTAINS AND RIVERS OF THE HIMALAYA: THEN AND NOW
    (JACK GIBSON)
  3. MEMORIES
    (MAVIS HEATH)
  4. ZHANGZI - AUTUMN, 1987
    (JOSS LYNAM)
  5. BRITISH XIXABANGMA Expedition, 1987
    (LT COL M. W. H. DAY)
  6. MENLUNGTSE, 1987
    (CHRIS BONINGTON)
  7. KINGDOM OF THE THUNDER DRAGON
    (S. K. BERRY)
  8. RATHONG, 1987
    (MAJOR K. V. CHERIAN)
  9. PANDIM - DIARY OF A WAR-TIME ESCAPADE
    (LORD JOHN HUNT)
  10. MAKALU
    (GLENN PORZAK)
  11. CHO OYU, 1987
    (Dr MAURICIO A. PURTO)
  12. KUMAON SECRETS
    (GEOFF HORNBY)
  13. FIRST ASCENT OF CHIRBAS PARBAT, 1986
    (INDRANATH MUKHERJEE)
  14. KALANAG EAST FACE EXPEDITION, 1986
    (W. J. POWELL)
  15. CHURDHAR MORE OF THE LESSER
    (WILLIAM MCKAY AITKEN)
  16. A RETURN TO LINGTI, 1987
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  17. ASCENT OF KARCHA PARBAT, 1986
    (J. K. PAUL and S. N. DHAR)
  18. A TRYST WITH PHABRANG, 1987
    (ANIL KUMAR)
  19. BRITISH KISHTWAR EXPEDITION, 1986
    (BOB REID and EDWARD FARMER)
  20. CANADIAN KASHMIR HIMALAYAN
    (JOHN A. JACKSON)
  21. UNKNOWN SPITI: THE MIDDLE COUNTRY
    (HARISH KAPADIA)
  22. PICNIC ON A GLACIER -A KARAKORAM JOURNEY
    (STEPHEN VENABLES)
  23. THE GOLDEN PILLAR
    (A. V. SAUNDERS)
  24. PROBLEMS OF ACCURACY IN REPORTING MOUNTAINEERING
    (ELIZABETH HAWLEY)
  25. HIMALAYA-OUR FRAGILE HERITAGE
    (N. D. JAYAL)
  26. THE CONTINUING STORY OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB
    (M. H. CONTRACTOR)
  27. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  28. IN MEMORIAM
  29. BOOK REVIEWS
  30. CORRESPONDENCE
  31. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1987

CORRESPONDENCE

29October 1987

Dear Sir,

Kulti Valley, which I visited in 1971 is certainly neglected, posr sibly due to the fact that Tara Giri has been reduced in height to below 20,000 ft (it used to be 20,8Q0 ft when RAFMA went to Kulti) and is more easily accessible through the Milang.

The Nanda Khat chronology given on p. 132-133 of HJ 43 leaves out two reccees in 1960 and an unpublicizedmnitary effort in 1972 which was led by Everester EC. S. Rawat and suffered unspecified accidents. While the expedition report in NANDA No. 3 is not a model of lucidity, I seem to remember that Girish Sah's team climbed Bauljuri in 1972 after failing on Nanda Khat, finally suceeding on the latter peak on 13 October 1973.

Regarding the obituary on Tenzing, the first known peak climbed by the would-be Everester was Kedarnath Dome, 22,410 ft on 11 July 1947 en route to Kedarnath, 22,770 ft, which was climbed a few hours later. This was the second ascent of Kedarnath Dome, the first having taken place on 25 June 1947. But the intriguing possibility remains that Tenzing may have climbed a major peak even earlier - in the little-known part of his career when he was serving under Col M. W. White in Chitral during World War II. For White and J. Edelman attempted Buni Zom from the Khorabohrt glacier in 1940, and Edelman did climb what may be Buni Zom North (6338 m) - was ‘Tiger’ Tenzing with him on top? Incidentally, I find the complete overlooking of the fine 1957 first ascent of Buni Zom by HJ, normally so comprehensive in its coverage, an enduring mystery.

With regards,

Joydeep Sircar

14th December, 1987

Dear Soli and Harish,

Please excuse me for responding to the last HJ 43 somewhat late, as I am out of Bombay for half the year, and was rather busy In recent months. But I think I owe this to you, having taken pride and pleasure in your past editions.

Just for your information.

Re: Kulti nala and the first recorded information. As far as I am aware, I was the first to penetrate the south Chandra-Bhaga triangle of mountains in 1954, after the International Students Expedition opened up the west (Mulkila region) in 1938. Having gone to the icefall, I too climbed the 16,500 ft feature on the right side of the Kulti valley. Then I also penetrated the Sissu nala and attempted Gepang Goh solo, reaching within 800 ft of the summit and then compelled to retreat, having been eaten out of hearth and home by my two jungli porters of Manali. If you come over I will show you my close up of the last part of Gepang Goh, which you show from Rohthang in your photo on p. 153 top right hand corner. Saved from starvation on return by a meal with Holdy and Doon School boys camping near Koksar. Incidentally, I was told then that Gepang Goh meant 'Mountain of Lost Merit'.

Similarly, (your article 13). Guru and I did an unsuccessful recce on three sides of Kinnaur Kailash in 1963 (east excluded). For lack of porters beyond snowline, and Guru not yet recovered from Everest 1962; returned to Kalpa to enjoy Nalini Jayal's classical music. We thought NW route possible.

Thank you for another well-produced and informative HJ.

Best wishes and greetings to both of you for the New Year.

Sincerely,

A. D. Moddie

CORRECTIONS
(Vol- 44)
Page 156 line 7 up ; read 'attempt on Nilkanth in

1961,' (This refers to the mistaken

claim of 1st ascent of Nilkanth in

1961).

Page 203 Note 21 ; Author's name is 'Roy F. Lindsay'.

Opp. p. 101 Panorama F ; Caption should read 'Peaks above

Langja village.'

Opp. p. 201 Illustrated Note 6 Caption, line 3, read

'E. Henseleit died using an old

rope.'