EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. A HOMAGE TO SACRED PEAK CHOMO YUMMO
2. CHO AUI EXPEDITION, 1986
3. PEAK 7016 m
4. JANNU—NORTH FACE, 1987
5. THE DUTCH NOMAD-MAKALU EXPEDITION, 1987
6. KANGCHUNGTSE EXPEDITION, 1987
7. VICTORY OVER LHOTSE SHAR
8. SLOVENE LHOTSE SHAR EXPEDITION, 1987
9. THAMSERKU, 1986
10. DATA ABOUT PUMORI
11. GAURISHANKAR (7145 m), 1986
12. EXPEDITION TO ANNAPURNA II, 1986
13. NANDA KHAT, 1987
14. PEAK 6210 M (Chaturangi Glacier), 1987
15. KHARCHAKUND NORTH RIDGE EXPEDITION, 1987
16. SWARGAROHINI II EXPEDITION, 1987
17. CB54
18. CLIMB OF AKELA KILLA
19. KULTI VALLEY EXPEDITION, 1987
20. EXPEDITION GUR, 1986
21. ANGLO-SCOTTISH KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1987
22. BROAD PEAK, 1986

 

 

 

IT ALL STARTED with my preparations for the Kangchenjunga expedition, being undertaken in March, 1987 by the Assam Rifles. We had concentrated at Pegong in north Sikkim for preparations and selection of the team for Kangchenjunga. Most of the boys were inexperienced youth, picked up from the various battalions. My endeavour was to expose maximum members of the Kangchenjunga team to some equally challenging peak as a training exercise.

Chomo Yummo¹ caught my eye for its sheer beauty and as a relatively less known peak in Sikkim. I was fascinated by the challenge it held with its steepness and height of 6828 m.

 

The party consisting of 2 officers, 33 jawans and 2 ladies including the veterans Phu Dorjee and Nima Wangchuk Sherpa reached Giagong on 11 October 1986. Mrs Dikila Gyatso, daughter-in-law of the late Sonam Gyatso also joined the party there. Acclimatization, physical training, rock work and basic mountaineering training was carried out under the guidance of Major T. $tobdan and Captain Gopal Singh. For this purpose, 35 members of the team had left Pegong for Giagong on 6 September, acclimatizing for three days at Chhaten at a height of 2400 m and for four days at Thanggu (4022 m), on their way. They reached Giagong on 15 September. Other members of the team joined us at Giagong.

On 15 October base camp was established at the height of 5440 m. It was a 4-hour climb from Giagong; complete equipment and rations were carried to the base camp by the team members themselves. The weather suddenly took a turn for the worse and it became very windy and cloudy. Heavy snowfall started and they had to carry the loads in knee deep snow. It took a number of ferries to stock the base camp since the weather was not favourable and the task was made further difficult due to thick fog and poor visibility which persisted for 2-3 days.

C1 was established on 20th at 6280 m. The climb was very steep and strewn with crevasses. Added to this was the factor that most of the members were inexperienced. They were facing difficulty in ice work and in opening the route. It was pre-winter and very strong winds were blowing.

Dikila suffered from severe headache and two other members had minor frostbite. Rifleman Jiwan Chhetri had a nasty fall and learnt his first lesson in mountaineering; 'whichever leg slips, its always the bottom that gets hurt'. He had a slight dislocation of the hip joint and had to be sent down to the base camp for rest and treatment.

Rations and stores were shifted to CI in four days. Captain Gopal Singh carried out the initial reconnaissance. Simultaneously, reconnaissance was carried out from three different approaches in order to ascertain the greatest accessibility and the best route of climbing the peak keeping in mind the lack of experience of the members. Finally, I selected the northeastern approach.

Now we set about the task of opening the route. Many parties did the job turn by turn. So far the weather had been very favourable and having established CI at the height of 6280 m we were very confident of speedy progress. However, that night we witnessed a devastating wind storm and blizzard, gome of the tents were blown off and almost all the tents were pulled down by the fury of the storm. We lost some of the equipment and foodstuff. The members who had lost their tents and climbing gear had to come down to the base camp. We had established a very efficient radio network and I was monitoring minute to minute progress of the expedition. We rebuilt the camp and decided to attempt the summit from here itself.

The first attempt was made on 26 October by Major Stobdan, with 20 members. The luck was not in their favour and they were beaten back from near the summit only an hour's climb away. There was a heavy wind and blizzard, three members lost their gloves and two lost their snow-goggles in the blizzard.

The second attempt was made by Phu Dorjee with a party of 22 members on 27 October. The wind was again very strong. Despite bad weather, 5 members including Phu Dorjee were successful in reaching the top at about noon. Phu Dorjee had frostbite on his right toe. According to Phu Dorjee,² the wind velocity was greater than any he had ever experienced before at such a height.

On 28 October Major K. S. Rao and Nima with 13 other members reached the summit at 11 a.m. It was a relatively calm day and they could reach the summit comfortably.

On 29 October Major Stobdan and Phu Dorjee accompanied by Dikila and Angmo and 16 other members commenced their attempt early in the morning at 4 a.m. They all made it to the top by 9 a.m.

A total of 39 members including two ladies successfully reached the top. The achievement becomes more commendable for the young mountaineers keeping in mind the paucity of equipment, the inexperience of the members of the team for whom it was the first exposure to the mountains. The clothing used was the normal ECC (Extreme Cold Clothing) used by the Assam Rifles troops in high altitude areas.

 

 

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THE CHO AUI expedition 1986, was sent to Tibet by The Himalayan Association of Japan. The party consisted of 10 members, led by Hiroshi Yashima.

'Choyo is a bull and its horn is Choui’,said the liaison officer, and this seemed to be the right word to describe the shape of this mountain. Cho Aui is pronounced as Choui in Tibet.

From Jabra, Cho Aui appeared neat and tidy, standing in the middle of two grand mountains, Cho Oyu on the left and Chorapsa on the right.

We were fortunate enough to have a chance to climb Cho Aui (7354 m) which is famous as a virgin mountain in Nepal. Moreover, we must admit that we are really lucky since all the members of our party accomplished this first ascent.

In the summer of 1985, we started our plan to climb Cho Aui. Then early in October the executive committee was organized and all the party members were decided in December.

On the way to the base camp, we had a lot of trouble as to transportation and it took much longer than we had expected, which inevitably affected our schedule afterwards. We, therefore, changed our tactics and carried only indispensable things in order to save as much time as possible, while trying to keep the top group making a route.

The base camp was built at a place from where the upper col of Cho Aui could hardly be seen. Screened by Cho Oyu, the morning sunlight came to the base camp at 9.30 a.m. From the base camp to CI, we made our way up the moraine for about 2 hours onto the glacier and across the snowfield for about 400 m, and again way up the snowfield for almost 200 m. CI was set up on 25 September. The place was a point for entering an area with crevasses and there were hanging glaciers on both sides. As the strong wind always blew down from the col, it was not at all a comfortable place to stay.

From C1 we went up the snowfield with small crevasses for several hundred metres and came to an area with larger crevasses. Then we scaled a snow wall, made a path through the snow overhang; we jumped across snow bridges and narrow crevasses, and came to a snow wall leading to the col. At that point we decided to change our route, and struck out under and to the left of the col along the snow wall with a succession of Himalayan folds.

The route was on the snow and ice wall and about 250 m long After traversing about 100 m to the left under a cornice just below a ridge, we came to the ridge where the south wind from Nepal was blowing strongly. The thin ridge stretched upwards and was intricately connected to a rock ridge leading to a great rock. C2 was set up on the steep slope in the rift of the cornice, to avoid the wind and was completed on 2 October.

On 11 October, Endo, Shikoda, Emura and Matsuki left C2 at 6.00 a.m. and by 9.00 a.m. they reached the point upto where they had made a route the previous day. They were delayed there by a reversed rock fault with soft snow which obstructed their way. Eventually they got to the upper part of an area with deep snow. The slope leading to the great rock became considerably steeper, and it was really tough to plough through the deep snow as high as the waist, or sometimes even the chest. This hard labour continued until about 5.00 p.m. Considering the worsening weather, bad route, and unexpected delay, they finally decided to bivouac. Vertically going down about 50 m from the ridge, they dug a cave in the cornice and made a small bivouac site for the night at an altitude of about 7300 m.

12 October. Fair weather. The long night was over. The wind from Nepal was as strong as ever and it whipped their faces. The summit ridge was quite thin. About 4 hours after starting out, at 12.59 p.m., they reached the summit of Cho Aui.

Two days later, on 14 October, the second group consisting of the remaining 6 members, Okubo, Yamada, Ishikawa, Sato, Ya-shima, and Onodera left C2 and stood at the peak at 2.44 p.m. Thus all of us succeeded in getting to the top of Cho Aui.

Photo 46

 

 

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MY SEARCH TO single out an interesting but yet unclimbed mountain in the Himalaya, brought me to discover the existence of a 7016 m peak which had been noted by a Chinese scientific mission from Lanchow Glaciology Institute. This mountain is situated at the head of the Batura glacier (Karakoram), 4 km northeast of Kampire Dior and was quoted on Schneider's outdated map as having an altitude of 6931 m. Not being visible from the valley below it remained unexplored and without name.

The purpose of our expedition called 'Himalaya '86' was multiple. There were mountaineering and exploration aims along with-scientific studies in medicine, geology, glaciology, vegetation and animal life. Our group of 14, even if it was made up of people skilled in both mountain climbing and scientific research, was still a large one.

On 3 July 1986, we left the village of Pasu in the Hunza valley, together with 178 porters, and in 8 days we covered the whole Batura glacier.

On 10 July, we set up our main camp on a desolate serac formation situated at 4450 m and 5 km from the foot of the unnamed mountain, by the aid of five high altitude porters.

On 12 July, CI was set up at 4950 m and on 15 July, C2 at 5400 m, just under the southern face. The bad weather slowed down the climb on the wall, which was a 45°-50° slope of ice and snow up to 6600 m and then a steeper and rocky zone almost tc the summit.

On 21 July a tent was set up at 5900 m (C3) which was later swept away by the blizzard. Owing to the bad weather, no activity was possible until 26 July. On that date the climb was resumed.

On the 29th, a group of climbers moved from C2 (5400 m), toward the summit for the final ascent. They were Alessandri, Capassi and Mancinelli, while Tansella, Nibid and De Sanctis came up from behind. At 8.30 a.m. the first group had already reached the altitude of 6600 m. Suddenly they were blocked and pushed back by the bad weather conditions and the excessive difficulties of the last tract. This ended the attempt from the southern slope.

On 31 July, from C2 Tansella and Giampietro explored the western slope, pushing, north they noted a new way to reach the summit passing through the northern ridge of the mountain. This way was much longer but it seemed easier. They installed again, at 6000 m, another C3(B). The following day, in order to observe better the western and northern parts of the mountain, they climbed up to the top of another virgin peak, estimated to have an altitude of 6572 m (Kampir Dior North) by the Chinese. It was situated 2.5 km west of Peak 7016 m and 1.8 km north-northeast from Kampire Dior.

On 2 August, Alessandri, Capassi and Mancinelli reached C3(B). At midnight together with Tansella, they began the final assault of Peak 7016 m. They moved toward the saddle of the snow-covered northern crest (about 6800 m) which they reached at 7.30 a.m. Then, on 3 August, they climbed the ridge and at 10.30 a.m. they were at the top. We hope this unnamed peak will be called 'Abruzzo Peak'. Abruzzo is the Italian region which all the members of the expedition are from.

While descending, at 6700 m, Mancinelli was hit by a huge rock which broke loose from the mountain and fractured his leg. The injured climber was carried down to 6300 m and the day after to C3(B) at 6000 m. A Pakistani helicopter attempted to recover the injured climber on 5 August, but was held back by bad weather. Only the skill of the pilot made the rescue possible, on the 6th, at an altitude of 5700 m.

Members: Luigi Barbuscia (leader), Domenico Alessandri, Antonio Capassi, Lucio De Sanctis, Filippo Di Donate, Fernando Di Fabrizio, Giulio Giampietro, Geppino Madrigale, Domenico Mancinelli, Evanio Marchesani, Dario Nibid, Daniele Perilli, Bernardino Romano and Antonio Tansella.

Photo 47
Fold-out Sketch 2

 

 

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OUR EXPEDITION TO JANNU (7710 m), consisted of Ger Friele, Edmond Ofner, Ferry van Wilgenburg, Rudolf de Koning, Ingo Doornenbal (doctor) and myself (as leader). With 55 porters we set off from Hille on 5 September. Ger Friele and J left Holland a week later, flew to Tumlingtar and joined the expedition at Ghunsa on 15 September, About one and a half days later we reached base camp at 4600 m, on the northern moraine of the Jannu glacier. A beautiful spot with a small stream. The first day we did some reconnaissance and decided to repeat the route pioneered by a New Zealand party in 1975 and finally climbed by a Japanese party in 1976. We abandoned the idea of climbing the very demanding pillar left of this route.

From 21st to the 25th we fixed ropes on the lower pillar upto the snow-plateau on 5500 m. The weather was bad and the climbing rather difficult; up to Vth Degree. CI was established on the top of the pillar. After a few days rest we fixed ropes on the so-called 'Wall of Shadows' (height of 600 m). Climbing the very steep, and partly vertical, ice-couloirs was fantastic climbing — technically very difficult. On 3 October we descended back to base camp; C2 had been established at 6100 m, and fully equipped with climbing material and food for the rest of the climb.

On 9 October Edmond and I started from C2 for the summit. The first part after the camp gave some difficult rock and ice-climbing (vertical rock and a vertical ice-couloir), afterwards we came onto the large snowfield and the difficulties eased. We first bivouacked at 6700 m and the second night on the ridge to the summit (7250 m). There I discovered I had frostbite on both feet. Idmond left this bivouac at midnight on the 11th and reached the lummit that day at 6.30 in the morning. At 11.30 he was back and we descended to our 3rd bivouac at 6600 m on the same day.

In the meanwhile Ger and Rudolf reached their 2nd bivouac at 7100 m (their 1st bivouac was at 6400 m). Next day when Edmond and I descended to base camp, they reached their 3rd bivouac at 7250 m. On 13 October they left for the summit (Ferry returned due to high-altitude sickness), and they were on the summit at 1.15 p.m. and they returned to their 3rd bivouac-site. The day after they descended to C2. At 6.00 p.m. we had a short contact by walkie-talkie and they were 60 m above C2. From then on we did not have had any contact, and we could not see them any more. On 15 October Ferry went up to look for them and he discovered their bodies at the foot of the 'Wall of Shadows' at 5500 m. We concluded that they must have been hit by falling ice while descending the last 60 m to C2 on the 14th soon after we had talked to them on the walkie-talkie. Ferry buried the two bodies on the mountain in a crevasse on the snow-plateau.

In fact we had had a very successful expedition until the tragic accident. In a very short time we climbed the technically difficult route, partly in Alpine-style, without oxygen and the help of Sher-pas, with a small group. Everything is however overshadowed by the death of our two companions Rudolf and Ger.

 

 

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OUR AIM WAS to climb the south face of Makalu. This face was first tried by a strong team from Yugoslavia in 1972, without success. In spring 1974, an Austrian team made an unsuccessful attempt. In autumn 1974 an international expedition also failed. Finally a strong Yugoslavian team, using oxygen, succeeded in climbing the south face.

We wanted to climb the south face without oxygen by a small, strong and tight group; four male climbers and one female support climber.

Two years of organisation and fund raising finally brought us to Kathmandu on 4 March.

It took us sixteen days to reach base camp from Hille where the truck dropped us. On our way to base camp we had to cross the Barun la, a col that was still in winter conditions: knee to waist deep snow forced us to three days of trail-making before the porters could pass the col.

Base camp, 4900 m, was situated on a very sunny and lovely meadow in full view of the south face.

After two days we pitched the first tent of CI at 5900 m. The way to CI was over the moraine of the Barun glacier and a grass and rock buttress - easy going terrain.

After C1 we had to cross a hanging glacier, climbing a steep rock buttress and further over the glacier to the foot of a prominent snow-ridge. This was the site where all former expeditions had their C2. We had decided to make our C2 at the end of the snow-ridge where the face really started. We dug a big snow cave, our C2, at 6700 m after fixing the snow-ridge and some other parts below it.

The cave was big enough to have four people sleeping comfortably and gave us enough space to store all our gear and food.

Ten days after reaching base camp we had fixed ropes up to 7000 m, but progress began to slow down.

During the next few days it was bright but stormy weather; day after day we went up the fixed ropes trying to cover new ground but the wind and spindrift made it impossible. At the end all of us went down to base camp. The storm lasted for another week, the face most of the day covered under a white curtain of spindrift. Finally we decided to go up again; the state of CI was not as bad as we expected, only one tent was ruined, the other tents were okay. In C2 the tunnel entrance of the tent was blown away and there was a hole in the roof; repairing took a day.

The next day we continued to fix ropes to the C3 site over mixed terrain with some traverses — really enjoyable climbing. Finding a suitable place for C3 wasn't easy; the ledges we could dig were not wider than 60 cm. In the meanwhile it was snowing and storming again, so we went back to the ice-cave. Two of us went down, one with acclimatization problems and the other with gastroenteritis, but went up again the following day to the site of C3 and were able to construct a platform with snow-blocks wide enough for our ‘one and a half person’ tent.

Progress remained slow, fixing 50-100 m a day, with several stormy days in which we couldn't climb at all.

Seven weeks after reaching base camp we had reached an altitude of 7600 m, the site for our C4. We all went back to base camp; what to do?

Still 600 m of difficult climbing before we would reach the summit ridge and only two weeks left.

Two of us decided to try to go Alpine-style to the summit from the end of the fixed ropes. One of us had too much problems with the altitude and as for me, I just didn't have the guts to try for the summit from our highpoint alone.

So we went up again, two for the summit, the others carrying in support. But again the weather broke, on 12 May at C3 we decided to abandon our climb.

 

 

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THE ENDLESS RIDGE of the Barun, the very steep descent in the lush forest are already behind. I stop, I look down, I see the smoke coming out of the houses, the green of the fields and I become aware of the life pulsing in the small village of Tashigaon.

I feel nostalgic, my thoughts are going back, on the mountain again, to the many moments of tensions, happiness and weariness. I do not want to accept the fact that everything is finished. I would still like to be up there, at the base camp, at C2, on the Makalu la. The lack of these things makes me feel empty.

C2 at 6800 m, in the night of the 29 April everything is real: the cold, the thirst and the weariness. The day that has just gone, instead, seems to have passed only in my mind. The long preparations in the morning, the steep couloir, the short halt on the Makalu la at 7400 m seem only a dream. I still hear in my mind Claudio's words 'today it is not possible any more to reach the top, it is too late, we better go down to rest and will come back after a few days.’

Since we decided to climb without high altitude porters we could not stay at C2 too long, the food and the gas were not enough. Also the bad weather conditions we had to handle almost every day would not have let us stay in high camps. So going down meant base camp.

A stiff and lifeless body of a climber, lay on the vast plateau of Makalu la. His face, white and impassive was like a warning, like he was saying to me 1 dared too much, remember that your mind here goes slowly like your steps, you don't know it, but when you realise that all your strength has gone it is too late.' It is true, I feel strange, but all the Himalayan climbers talk about this feeling of mixed detachment, happiness and satisfaction. Being there is great, I do not feel the tormented fright that I have already experienced on some other mountains.

Though I was eager to go up, I offer a very weak resistance to Claudio's decision, he persuades me, and we go down.

Why? May be up there the desire of relaxing in a safe tent has been stronger than any of my ambitions? My determination was not so strong as I thought? Many Ctuestions, Many answers.

Base camp. The weather has got even wonse. Every night we go to sleep hoping the next day would be better, but that never happens; it is always snowing. How I hate those snowflakes, falling down, dancing in the air, blown by the wind. It is because of them that we are still here, blocked in the tent, being aware of the fact that our concentration and our motivation are slowly fading. The summit is not our emerging object anymore, we are losing heart. Claudio and I realize that we cannot wait anymore. So, though I am not in good shape anymore, having been sick for the last few days and though the weather was not getting any better, we decided to try once more. Walking on the moraine covered with snow is wearisome. I am very slow. We reach the glacier. The snow is deep. I am aware of the fact that my health is not good, that I am too weak. I sit down, turning my back at the mountain; that means I do not want to fight anymore. I feel guilty and angry: because of me, because of my weakness the dream is over also for Claudio. I had to acknowledge defeat.

Tashigaon is now in front of me, the children are running towards us. The people are standing around our gear, chatting and inquiring. I am happy to be here in the green, among people again. Yes, it was wonderful up there, I experienced exciting moments, moments of hard living, moments of great joy, but I am at last ready to accept the fact that they now belong to the past. My mind is free to indulge in new adventures, always looking for the impossible.

Summary:

23 March 1987: We arrive in Kathmandu. After one week everything is ready and we leave by plane for Tumlingtar.

13 April 1987: The base camp was established at an elevation of 5350 m. The days that followed we took loads up to 5900 m. The weather was always bad; windy and cold.

19 April 1987: Two members, Mose Mercolli and Franco Demarchi, decided to give up and left the expedition. In spite of that and the unstable weather conditions, Claudio Righeschi and Wilma Simonetta agree to continue with the climb.

29 April 1987: Claudio Righeschi and Wilma Simonetta reach Makala la at 7400 m. Since it was already 4.30 p.m., we have a stove and some food there; decide to go down and try to come up in a few days.

Team: Wilma Simonetta, Claudio Righeschi, Mose Mercolli and Franco Demarchi.

 

 

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IT WAS ONLY after a grim battle against the elements — violent winds and intense cold — that the GMHM team finally achieved their first success on a peak towering over 8000 m.

Of the 19 expeditions which have attempted the ascent of Lhotse Shar (8400 m) since 1965, only four have attained their objective: two Swiss expeditions, a Czechoslovakian expedition and the French GMHM expedition. This might perhaps give an idea of the atrocious conditions surrounding this peak situated under the terrible winds of Everest.

Another successful attempt was made by Capt Alain Esteve, leader of the GMHM, and Sgt Eric Gramond, who established a new world record of jumping in para-hang glider.

Progress of the Expedition

On 27th March, the advance party arrive, in Kathmandu in order to make contact with the support team, to proceed with the tedious procedure of clearing the wireless equipment fifam the customs; and to buy the remainder of the provisions and equipment.

The other members of the expedition landed in Kathmandu on 2 April. The whole group rejoined at Lukla, at 2800 m, situated in the valley of Khumbu. From there, after a trek of five days, they reached the site where they set up base camp on the west bank of the Lhotse glacier (5200 m). 3200 m above, a stormy wind was blowing on the face of the Lhotse Shar. This made for particularly severe weather conditions at this high altitude.

Capt Esteve had divided the group into three teams who would take turns to get the equipment into place on the mountain.

On Lhotse Shar, the alpine technique could not be used due to the steepness of the route and the violence of the wind. What needed to be done here, was to fit the mountain with fixed ropes, which would facilitate the work for the Sherpas and would allow the climbers to descend securely to the camps even as they neared exhaustion. This vital rope would prevent the climbers from getting lost on the mountain when they were enveloped in clouds.

On 15 April, the base camp was set up at 5800 m. On 20 and 21 April one of the teams installed C2 at 6500 m. There they set up a depot at 7050 m for the storage of the equipment which was needed for the construction of C2. Two successive avalanches buried C2 completely, as a result of which the climbers were compelled to install a new camp, 300 m lower down.

On the first of May, C3 was ready for the roped party and till the seventeenth, numerous attempts, all unsuccessful, to install C4 at 7600 m were made; the wind was too violent and the snowfall kept increasing. However the fixed ropes were installed upto 7300 m. Some of the equipment as well as 4 bottles of oxygen were dispatched to this altitude.

Taking advantage of a relatively quiet spell in the weather, on 8 May, Capt Esteve and Sgt Gramond just managed to take off in their para-hang glider from the lower slopes of C3 and landed near the base camp. A new world record in para jumping was thus established at 7000 m.

On 17 and 18 May, the first team attempted to climb to the top of Lhotse Shar from C3. It was excessively windy and only Sgt Gramond managed to reach upto a height of 8200 m. This was in spite of the grave risks he faced due to the absence of a fixed rope for a duration of 900 m of uneven ground.

On 20 May, one more effort was made by Capt Esteve, Adjutant Royer, Mdl Tedeschi and Sherpa Senge, to reach the top. The team left C3 at 11.45 p.m. on the 19th. At 7600 m Capt Esteve and Adjutant Royer had the beginning of frostbite on the feet and were forced to turn back.

Later, at 8300 m Sherpa Senge, frightened by the blasts of wind and huge cornices, refused to go on, leaving Mdl Tedeschi to continue alone to the top. At 9.30 a.m„ the news of the victory 'without oxygen', was received with delirious joy by the support team who were working at base camp.

On 22 May, Adjutant Mailly leading a team whose morale was high, left C3 to climb to the top. But the wind increased in violence and they were forced to abandon the climb at about 7600 m.

After this last attempt, the climbers began the dismantling of the camps and the retrieving of the equipment, since the monsoon was approaching and within a few days the mountain would be quite inaccessible due to the snow.

During this spring of 1987, mainly due to these particularly unfavourable weather conditions, only 5 of 25 expeditions in the Nepalese Himalaya achieved their objective.

The GMHM expedition was one of the three which succeeded in ascending an altitude of more than 8000 m, in this spring of 1987.

Team: Capt Esteve Alain (leader), Capt Donzey Guy, Dr Bigard Xavier, Adjutant Royer Pierre, Adjutant Mailly Lionel, Segt Chef Tresallet Gerald, Mdl C. Tedeschi Yves, Segt Benard Philippe, Flematti Robert, {Semblanet Daniel, Nima Norbu and Rajeev Sharma.

Photos 48-49

 

 

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SLOVENE — KAMNIK TOWN Himalayan expedition from Yugoslavia planned the ascent of Lhotse $har (8400 m) by its southwest ridge. The expedition also had in its programme to reach the middle summit of Lhotse (8430 m). To reach that middle summit we would have to traverse an extraordinary hard high altitude ridge, all of it above 8000 m.

We left Yugoslavia on 27 February, Eight days later we left Kathmandu and reached our base camp on 14 March. We put tents on the same day at 5250 m. During the next ten days we fixed ropes upto 6300 m. We also put CI (5850 m) and C2 (6300 m). On 5 April, we established C2 (6900 m) high and same day Nadvesnik and Stremfelj first reached an altitude of 7000 m and the next day they fixed ropes to 7170 m, just under the south face of Lhotse Shar, which was overcome two days later (8 April) by Bence, Plevel and Prezelj. The weather turned for the worse and because of snowstorms we lost 9 days. From 10 April to the 15th we experienced continuous bad weather preventing any climbing activity.

On 11 April, the leader of French army expedition visited our base camp and asked for permission to climb Lhotse Shar by our route and our ropes. We refused as they did not have permit either for this peak, but despite that, the French team went up our route and using our fixed ropes. We think that they are very unfair climbers and unfair people also.

The weather continued to be stormy and a lot of snow had fallen on 20 April. Bence reached the highest point of our expedition, 7450 m. There was a lot of new snow on the summit slopes and because of the danger of avalanches, Bence climbed down to C3 with considerable difficulty.

We tried to establish C4, but because of bad weather and a lot of snow, we didn't succeed. On 22 April, Benkovic fixed our last ropes at 7350 m in a snow storm. Later, climbers reached a C3 few times on 12 May, Bence reached 7300 m again, but he couldn't put up C4. Weather was still bad and because of that, we concluded our expedition, after 62 days efforts.

CRONOLOGY OF THE ATTEMPTS AND ASCENTS ON PUMORI

 

The expedition failed because of extremely bad weather — high winds and snow-storms were continuous and the resultant danger of avalanches compounded by fog made the venture highly risky — in spite of which we had ventured upto 7450 m.

Members: Vincenc Griljc (leader), Dr Peter Painter (doctor) and climbers Filip Bence, Janez Benkovic, Vincenc Bercic, Tomo Cesen, Milan Gladek, Silvo Karo, Rado advesnik, Janko Plevel, Marko Prezelj, Andre j Stremfelj and Janez Sustersic. Altogether 13 men and 5 high altitude Sherpas.

 

 

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OURS WAS A four-man team from Spain, with Jose Luis Fernandez as leader and Azucena Lopez, Miguel A. Rodriguez and myself as members, to attempt Thamserku (6630 m). For me, it was the first visit to the Himalaya, although I have been an active climber elsewhere in the world.

We left Spain on 16 September and after the usual days at Kath-mandu to sort out the formalities and purchase provisions, left for Jiri by bus on the 28th. We started our trek from there and reached Lukla on 5 October where we had a change of porters as those originally hired refused to go further. We left the next day and reached Monjo on the 7th. This is the last habitation before going up the valley to the base camp. A fresh strike and yet another change of porters. On 8 October, Azucena left with four porters and the rest of us followed the next day with three more. Fortunately we were a lightly loaded party (only 350 kg) and were able to establish base camp on the 10th comprising 3 tents and a stone hut. The weather was bad — snow-storms and mist.

13 October, we recceed a route up the glacier upto the wall of the west face.

14-19 October, bad weather only allowed us to mark the route with cairns of stones — lost in the mist several times.

19 October, we found ourselves short of food for the days we expected to be at and above base so Luis and myself sped back to Lukla for more provisions, whilst Miguel and Azucena start ferrying loads to a depot at the foot of the wall (5200 m), and continue the work till our return from Lukla on the 21st. Bad weather continues.

22-25 October, acclimatization and study of the initial part of the route on the wall.

26 October, we start our climb — we bivouac at 5700 m.

27 October, we climb through couloirs and rock at angles varying from 65°—90° and finally bivouac (5900 m) in an ice-cave carved out by ourselves. We lose a camera and our medical kit which slipped away whilst we were digging the cave.

28 October, our next bivouac at 6300 m was on the face, hanging in hammocks fixed to the ledge. Clear sky but intense cold. High hopes to reach the summit next day, a relatively easier 350 m above.

29 October, have been having problems with our stoves for some time. Now the ultimate tragedy — the gas has leaked out and there is no way we can melt the snow for our fluid intake. {So near the summit and yet so far, We hastily descend by rappeling down our route of ascent. We reach the glacier at 10.30 p.m. and the base camp the next morning at 3.00 a.m.

31 October, back at Lukla whence we catch the plane to Kath-mandu and are home on 10 November.

 

 

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WHEN ANALYZING the data about Pumori we observe the following :

There are seven different routes (three of them SE face) and also route variation of 250 m — 300 m long approximately on the & SW ridge.

1962: SE ridge to NE ridge, Swiss-German expedition.

1972: South buttress, French expedition.

1973: SW ridge, Japanese expedition.

1974: W face, Japanese expedition.

1982: SE face and NE ridge, American expedition.

1984: SE face and NE ridge, American/Australian expedition.

1985: SE face and NE ridge, Catalan (Spanish) expedition.

We must remark that the original route of 1962, the longest of all routes has not been repeated or even attempted, while the Japanese route of 1973 is the most used. There have been nine ascents.

The south buttress has been climbed three times, the last ascent has been made by Jeff Lowe in a solo climb.

On the SE face there are three different routes that have only some parts in common.

On the west face there has been only one ascent made by a Japanese expedition in 1974.

There has not been any ascent by the north face yet, though at least one attempt has been made (some members of the Catalan expedition to Everest in 1985 tried to climb the Pumori north face).

The first ascent by a woman climber was made by Claudine Lescure, a member of the French expedition of 1975 that climbed the SW ridge. The first winter ascent was made in 1982 by the American expedition led by J. Bridwell.

The first solo climb was made in 1983 by Jeff Lowe following the south buttress.

 

 

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WE LEFT KATHMANDU by bus to Charikot with 700 kg of load, 25 porters, a cook Sirdar and mail runner. From the entrance to Bhote Kosi valley where we arrived on 13 September, it took three days to reach Lamabagar.

The monsoon was operating in full force, and during the march through leech-infested bamboo forests we had to replace the weaker of the porters.

After four very hard and miserable days we set up base camp (4300 m) on 18 September on the glacier.

Two days later we established our first bivouac at 5500 m and eventually moved it higher to 6100 m.

Note: Translated by Anne Igartfburo.

The weather was terrible and for the next fifteen days we were restricted to the base camp. Even under these conditions we made acclimatization attempts on two virgin summits nearby of 5430 m and 4830 m.

In the first week of October we made a fresh attempt on our target but could only reach our bivouac site. On 6 October we left the mountain.

 

 

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Pako,
a small body in the shade of your
gigantic heart.
You were so, and that is how we will
always remember you.

MY EXPEDITION'S COMPANIONS, who preceded me in the approach to Annapurna II, were surprised by the heavy snowfall.

The Sabje khola was a white carpet to a depth that reached the knee. The porters not able to bear the cold decided to walk out and to break their contract before the base camp was reached,, which was at 4800 m.

Of course, the members of the expedition realized very well that this would double their work, and from that moment on, they would have to do everything themselves until they reached a different base camp at 3800 m, a thousand metres below the previously planned final base camp to be set up.

Just two Sherpas and the liaison officer collaborated actively, loading the parcels and organizing the materials.

With only four men and in a light style, it was decided to attempt Annapurna II, through the northwest arete, A challenge hard to understand, by those who do not know the giant distances of this" huge arete, constantly swept by high winds and frightening storms. Two other members would film the ascent with a 16 mm camera. The seventh member would take care of the base camp, attending to the radio and the weather reports. The two Sherpas, would limit themselves to the base camp domestic chores and look after the equipment and the food.

This is the way things went, until a month and a half later I arrived at the foot of Annapurna II. My companions' work was worthy of high praise. For then they had installed the outpost camp, and three high camps, the last one at 7100 m, at the beginning of the final arete, almost three kilometres long.

The arduous work was not free of problems. 'Jose, the ascent is very hard/ that was the first thing they told me. 'Here the distances seem to have no end, they tire you out and you became awfully discouraged. The route has no serious technical problems, but it turns into an apparently endless slog enough to frustrate anyone.' Although we knew this, this climb meant a lot to four friends. We therefore did not think there was any need to make a fuss.

There were more problems.

The cold, and the hurricane strength winds were our worst enemy. They did not stop for an instant.

This did not surprise me very much. I already knew, when I saw from a distance the arete and the final pyramid of Annapurna II. Gigantic and alarming snow whirled, violently across the mountain. I was able to see for myself even better from the base camp. It was an incredibly impressive sight. To make matters worse, the wind had seriously damaged some tents. They presented an awful sight and were in a pitiful state. What a shame!

Phurba Kitar, our Sirdar, nodding, approved my friends' suggestions. Without understanding our language, he knew perfectly what we were saying. A deep worry was reflected in his face, so that during dinner, he offered to go with the climbing members of the expedition. Sherpa Phuri did the same. Four years ago, he had almost reached the summit of Annapurna II with a powerful Korean expedition of forty members. Why sacrifice two Sherpas, relegating them to unimportant tasks? Why not use them to reinforce the attack team? In this way, the two Sherpas perfectly understood our ideas, even better when they saw us smiling and drinking tea to our success.

'If the weather is fine, we are sure that we will reach the summit' said Pako and Jesus, convinced. I was amazed to find that the high morale of my friends made it possible for us to cope with everything.

Two days later, 30 April, with the first start of the good weather, Pako, Takolo, Maiz and Jesus, confidently left for the high camps. Prom that moment on, a radio-telephone would allow us to keep in touch with one another at agreed times. We were also able to follow their progress from below with telescopes.

During the first two days, our friends advanced without any difficulties. They carried on strongly, encouraged, inspired and convinced that the good weather would solve everything. That evening Pako and Maiz gave us the first great thrill, saying that they had reached the 7100 m camp, leaving Takolo and Jesus at the lower camp.

However, our euphoria only lasted a little while. Unfortunately large storm clouds, threateningly and suddenly appeared on the blue Himalayan skies.

From that moment on, step by step, all of our fears were being fulfilled:

'Camp III calling base camp. Over’

'Carry on, carry on. Over'

'The wind is unbearable, as well as the cold. ... It is almost impossible to advance under these conditions. . , . Over'

'Ride it out and be patient. . . . Over’

The next day, Pako's faltering voice arrived at the appointed time,

'The situation here has rapidly deteriorated. Over’

'Here below as well. Wait and withdraw at the first opportunity. Over’

'Not yet — We are strong enough to wait. We will call you back at midday. Over’

At midday the situation was the same, so we postponed the contact until the evening:

'Base camp, base camp . . . Over’

Again Pako:

'It is snowing unceasingly. We constantly, have to use the shovels for fear of being buried. The wind is very strong and shakes us violently. It is very cold and icy. . . Over'

We were very concerned about the state of the two companions' health.

'We are all right, waiting for an opportunity to move. . . . Over’

'Here below we are seriously worried about you two. It has been j announced that the bad weather will persist during the next few days. Over'

'We will wait until, tomorrow. ... Over’

A bit later from Pako:

'Are you still on the line? . . . Please answer. . . . Over’

'Yes. . . . We hear you very well. . . . Over'

'Please hold the line. ... Do not leave us. . . . Do not leave us f alone. . . . Please play some music . . . something lively . . . our. music. It would be great to hear it, while we have dinner.'

During dinner time we told jokes, laughing and trying to boost their morale. Anything to make our friends Pako and Maiz, who were going to remain with these extreme conditions (three days at 7100 m), happy.

In fact the worry increases. The radio announces a fresh deterioration, with more storms and snow. Therefore there is no othar option, except that of immediate retreat. Evidently the recent snoW by itself was a serious problem for a possible attack, under those precarious conditions. To cap it all, the equipment, mainly the tents, were seriously damaged. We were not able to do anything, only to withdraw and leave the place without delay.

A week ago, an American expedition, which attempted the same without success gave up its undertaking. A formidable team of nine climbers, some of them professionals, gave everything without success. The bad weather exhausted them. Their decision preceded our final attack, so they were surprised when our four companions left the base camp.

‘It is madness! They have nothing to gain' — they told us. They were so right!

The next day we made Pako and Maiz give up their attempt. It upset them, but there was no point waiting for an opportunity that would never come. Only their iron will and their high morale allowed them to stand firm.

'We are leaving right now. Get dinner ready, because we will be at the base camp before night’ — they told us.

The next day while climbing up to the advanced camp in the company of Takolo and Agustin Arenas, we felt as sad as if we carried the whole world's troubles.

Tears came to our eyes removing those tents. Everything possible had been done, sparing no effort, suffering from pain and cold, withstanding that monotonous and icy loneliness.

It was true that we did outshine ourselves and the adventure meant for us an important success, but it was true as well, that we were coming back empty-handed, without the peak to offer to those who supported us.

 

 

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THE CLIMBERS and EXPLORERS CLUB, Delhi organised an expedition to Nanda Khat, 6611 m (21,690 ft) in August-September 1987. From {Song, our roadhead, we trekked five days to base camp, which was established on the right of the Pindari glacier. Advance base camp was established on a grassy meadow called Sura Kharak. The route was over steep grassy slopes with bits of rock patches. We had to use rope at one point where it had become very slippery bicause of the constant rain.

We recceed the route ahead to CI. Because of very slight snow-fill earlier in the year, the glacier was badly broken and so we could not follow the route taken by the previous expeditions. We climbed a ridge up the first rock band which led to a cone shaped ice formation below the second rock band. At the beginning of the first rock band we established a dump point. The weather would close in and it would start raining by 12.30 p.m. and so we could not climb for the full day. CI was established below the cone shaped formation. We called it 'Cone Camp'. Further on we opened route up the second rock band. The rock is very loose causing a constant danger of rockfall. It took us 4 days to open the route. By now, we had lost 5 days because of the weather. Not a single day had passed without rainfall. We established C2 above the second rock band on a strip of moraine running along the top of the rock band. (Traill's Pass can be safely approached from C2 of Nandakhat. Although it means that you have to climb higher than the pass and then go down to it, it is safer and easier as you avoid most of the crevasses and seracs of the glacier). Three of the members occupied this camp in order to open route to summit camp. On the following day, the weather packed and we had continuous snowfall for the next 48 hours. Snow had piled up on our tents and the rock band was covered, making it even more treacherous. We had to wait one more day for the snow to settle and for additional rations to be ferried Up. By then we had lost 7 days because of the weather and rations were low. We decided that we would carry our equipment, tentage, food and fuel for two days and make an attempt immediately. Summit camp was established and that night we prepared for a summit attempt. Unfortunately at 4 a.m, the clouds had covered us and we decided not to move up.

The weather had played a cruel joke on us. It cleared up by 9 a.m. but it was too late to move up. We went up for a recce of the route ahead. We realised that we had lost our chance. Only one day's ration was left with us and it would take at least two more days for the summit. Also the uncertainty of the weather prevailed. We decided to move down the next day.

Photos 50-51-52

 

 

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THIS PEAK WAS climbed twice previously, first by a West Bengal expedition in 1968 and then by an American expedition in September 1984. The West Bengal team climbed the peak 6210 m under the false impression that it was 6407 m high peak and named it as 'Radhanath' which lay to the north of the peak 6210 m. The later team climbed the peak 6210 m on their way to peak 6407 m upto which they could not reach.

Our team consisted of five members — Usha Page (leader), Jayant Tulpule (deputy leader), Bharati Kale, Bipin Raje, Vijaya Gadre.

They started from Pune on 11 May, 1987 and reached Uttarkashi on the 14th and arranged for porters. On the 15th they started for Chirbas. On the 16th they camped 25 m lower down the pilgrim route, near the P.W.D. rest house on the bank of river Bhagirathi. The landscape towards the east was dominated by Bhagirathi, I, II and III peaks. On the 17th, under light snow conditions they camped at Gaumukh.

On the 18th they climbed up the right Gangotri glacier moraine and followed the middle moraine.. While wading safely on the middle moraine they could look around and admire the sheer rock pillars and Shivling, Kedar Dome and Kedarnath. They reached Nandanban, a plain beyond Chaturangi left lateral moraine, before it gets merged into the Gangotri glacier, in the late afternoon at 14,000 ft. There was deep snow and water was not available. Since Gaumukh camp, the water was made available by melting snow and thus the stock of kerosene diminished at a rapid rate. The weather was fine in the evening. They could see their objective 6210 m high peak from here.

On the 19th they made a ferry to the next camp. They took a route on the left lateral moraine of the Chaturangi glacier and some distance away was the Indonesian Vasuki expedition's base camp. They dumped the load there. On the 20th and 21st the weather was perfect. They made the load ferry upto the end of the moraine ridge, before Vasuki tal camp. On the 22nd they wound up the camp at Nandanban. In the afternoon they came to the camp. The weather became cloudy and snowfall started and continued all next day till about 1730 hrs. The sky then became clear and we could see the peak 6210 m. The summit hump was blazing in the sunlight.

On 24th they started for Vasuki tal camp. On 25th the weather was good. They ferried the loads to the foot of the peak on the right of Chaturangi glacier. They crossed the Chaturangi glacier It a point where Sundar and Suralay glaciers meet Chaturangi glacier.

On 26th they left Vasuki tal camp at 1000 hrs and reached dump point within 3 hours. They climbed up the gradual snow-slope, Which joined the southwest ridge of 6210 m peak. They climbed up the upper edge of the slope and saw the concave basin formed little bilow the edge and frozen water, it was a lake. They camped on the raised flat portion of the ridge (16,700 ft). From the lake camp they could have a panoramic view of many mountain peaks around. To the south, they could see Satopanth and to the southeast was Chandra Parbat. We started at 6 a.m& and took the southwest ridge. The gradient, at some points was quite steep. Rana was in the lead. We climbed for 6-7 hours. Throughout the climb the summit hump was seen and we thought it so near. Rana, Viju and Premsinh continued upto the final spur, leading towards the summit snowfield. The spur was corniced. There was a snowfield after that, and then the final summit hump. They returned back and decided to establish a second camp.

On 28th Usha returned to Vasuki tal camp alongwith Premsinh. Others camped on the fiat rocky portion on the ridge at the height of 18,000 ft. On the 29th we started for the summit at 0700 hrs,
following the same rocky southwest ridge. At 19,000 ft Viju unroped and returned to the summit camp. After some time we had to leave the rocks on the ridge and turn to the right. A short but steep climb on the snow led to the fiat snowfield below the final summit triangle. The last triangle has a corniced ridge on the south face and an open crevasse exactly below it. On the far side, i.e. on the north was a sheer drop which divided the peak 6210 m peak and the 6407 m peak. (Chaturangi I)

We had to put on the crampons for the last climb. The last pitch was covered with a thin layer of snow over hard ice. They started to climb from the west and reached the top at 1150 hrs. The approach to peak 6407 m looked very difficult. The top does not have any fiat space on it. The height noted was 20,600 ft. On the 30th the team wound-up the lake camp and reached Gangotri.

 

 

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IN THE EARLY summer of 1986, Bobby and I had independent, but as yet ill-formed plans to climb in the Himalaya in the near future. Having sounded each other out and decided to combine forces, we needed to select a suitable objective, and two more suit- able members for the team. Neither task was easy!

The Gangotri met our requirements fairly well, and there was plenty of information from previous visitors available. The area, situated 200 miles north of Delhi, also had the advantage of relative ease of access. Initially, too much emphasis was placed on the objective being an unclimbed peak. We are indebted to Neil McAdie: firstly for persuading us to go for one of the area's more major summits rather than some insignificant, albeit unclimbed, spot height; and secondly for inspiring us with his photo of the route. After seeing Neil's photo and deciding that the route was feasible, we immediately requested permission to attempt it from the Indian authorities. In retrospect, the way we finally found our objective was much more satisfactory than using a process of elimination, selecting peaks purely on the merit of being unclimbed.

Rob joined the expedition in its early stages during October, but finding a suitable fourth member with the necessary holiday available took a long time. In February, just soon enough for the MEF's interview for a grant, Pete (who was one of the first people we had asked to join us) found he could after all secure the leave required, and decided to come. By the end of February then, we had a full team and our objective was booked.

Two previous expeditions had made successful ascents of Kharcha-kund, and the north ridge had seen several attempts. The mountain was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1980. After failing on the north ridge, probably near the 'Five Pinnacles', they put two parties on the summit via the west ridge using fixed ropes. In 1982 Rick Allen and Ernie McGlashan of Roy Lindsay's Scottish party failed on the north ridge at about 5500 m, just below the 'Five Pinnacles'.¹ They encountered very bad conditions: powder snow on boiler plate slabs. The second successful expedition was in 1983. An Austrian team led by E. lindenthaler climbed a new route on the NE wall and also made two ascents by the original west ridge route.² Both routes were climbed in two day pushes. In 1984 Pat Little John and John Mothersele narrowly failed to make the first British ascent, climbing the west ridge in alpine-style. They retreated 250 m from the summit due to exhaustion and altitude sickness. Subsequently a German expedition failed to make any progress on the north ridge because of excessive snow cover. They were climbing in Maty 1986 rather than in the more usual August to October season. We found some evidence of these previous attempts as far as the 'Five Pinnacles', and there were many fixed ropes on the descent ridge.

 

The weather conditions were exceptionally good in the Gangotri region during the 1987 post monsoon season. The monsoon itself never actually materialised, so the rock pitches were completely clear of snow. Unconsolidated powder through to very hard ice was experienced, but on the whole, snow conditions were good. The sky was generally clear during the day, although cloud built up early behind the ridge at the end of the glacier and poured over it as the day progressed. Nights were also clear and cold (minimum night time temperature was — 15°C, generally — 7°C). The worst weather we experienced was an afternoon of mist and light snow showers at the north col.

Base camp was usually warm and sunny enough for sunbathing. Night time temperatures were also low here though (generally -5°C).

Alpine rock grades and Scottish winter grades have been allocated to rock and ice- pitches respectively. 120 m of 7 mm rope was carried by the expedition and fixed where stated to facilitate retreat, had it been required. Five rock pegs were also left.

Base camp was at Sundarvan (4700 m), and the mountain reached from here by crossing the Ghanohim Bamak. On a reconnaissance we discovered a comfortable bivouac at the foot of the ridge (4925 m).

Scree slopes on the west side of the ridge were climbed to meet the ridge at a notch at the start of the difficulties. The first bivouac was made here. The same point could be reached by scrambling up the ridge itself for about 250 m, as on reconnaissance, but this was found very loose.

The ridge was followed with no great difficulty (III) for about 250 m until a short crack led to a 6 m traverse across a slab (IV, fixed rope). A short descent was made to scree covered ledges which were followed leftwards. (These ledges lie at the top of a couloir falling to the foot of the ridge on its left hand side.) Unprotected, loose rock (III) was then followed diagonally up leftwards, to a point on the ridge ahead above the first tower (Robin's Flake).

The right arete of a slab above (V, fixed rope) was taken to a diedre. An exit on the left by a short, steep corner crack (V) led to an excellent platform on the crest of the ridge. The compact boss of rock ahead was surmounted (IV), and the ridge then followed easily for a pitch. A line keeping to the left of the crest was followed until an icy-gully was reached. Here we found it easiest to move back right onto the rib, and continue upwards until a 6 m leftwards traverse led to a snow-patch (III).

The snow-patch was climbed (50 m) This led to a steep section of rock from which a leftwards exit led to a shoulder on the ridge (V). A sentry box was climbed to a belay. A flakey crackline followed (V, 50 m) leading to the top of the first 'Five Pinnacles' (5500 m). This pinnacle was descended by abseil, as was the second (fixed ropes). The third small pinnacle was crossed with no difficulty, and a bivouac made on a ledge system on the eastern side of the fourth.

A descent on the eastern side bypassed Pinnacle 5 to reach the foot of a snow-slope. This was climbed for two rope lengths to a rockband which was passed by a leftwards fault (Scottish III) giving access to the upper snow/ice-wall. The wall was climbed for 250 m to the right of a large serac band. An excellent bivi site is available at the top of this wall. The snow-ice-arete, conspicuous from the glacier, was taken easily to its end on top of a pinnacle (5874 m). A scramble and abseil (fixed rope) were made down the back of this pinnacle, and a steep snow slope on the immediately following 'Bifurcated Pinnacle' ascended. We passed through the gap in this pinnacle to reach the eastern side, traversed some flakes and made a diagonal abseil (fixed rope) to bypass the bulk of the pinnacle. A short climb up a diedre (10 m) regained the ridge, and the third bivouac was made at the col behind the pinnacle (5840 m).

A steep snow/ice-crest was climbed, almost to the foot of the next impressive rock buttress, 'Longland Buttress*. A traverse left on soft snow gained mixed ground on the east of this buttress ({Scottish IV). From here, a steep snow-slope was ascended diagonally back right to gain a corniced ridge. This gradually steepening ridge was followed to the foot of the initial pinnacle of the 'Great North Tower' (GNT), where a traverse right led to a good belay. Two excellent ice-pitches (Scottish IV) on the right of the pinnacle regained the crest of the ridge. The ridge was then followed for three pitches towards the main part of the GNT (rock move IV, mixed move Scottish IV), At a large bergschrund, a leftwards traverse across snow was made to the eastern edge of the tower. Here a system of grooves led for one pitch to a snow-patch on the summit of the tower (VI, Al 3pts). We made our fourth bivouac here (6085 m).

From the snow-patch the crest of the GNT was climbed for twa pitches, blunt at first, but after a notch becoming a really classic knife edge ridge (III/IV, 1 rope move). Two 50 m abseils were made into the unknown down the very impressive south face of the GNT, to arrive at the north col Inf. (5957 m). From the col a steep ice-slope was climbed up leftwards for two pitches, followed by a difficult traverse* left on ice, bypassing a gendarme on the ridge (Scottish V). This gained a cave below a chimney (V, Al 2pts) leading to the very summit of the 'Tower' in the col (6068 m). One abseil was made down the far side of the tower, and poor snow climbed and traversed for a pitch (Scottish III/IV) to a notch before the next small pinnacle. Here the fifth bivouac was made in a ‘V’ between ice and rock on the crest of the ridge (6020 m).

The traverse along the ridge was continued for 10 m, and a 20 m diagonal abseil made on the east side to a snowy ledge (left a jammed abseil rope). A traverse on poor snow (25 m, Scottish IV) was made to the north col Sup. (6000 m). We bivouacked here in a snow-hole, but a rock ledge is also available.

Easy snow-slopes were climbed to the summit (6612 m, approx 3 hours).

From the north col Sup. the big steep couloir to the west was descended. This was achieved by 10 to 12 awkward abseils, keeping to the rock on the north of the couloir to avoid the heavily crevassed centre. Fixed ropes led to a snowfield, which was crossed to a shoulder and our seventh bivouac.

From the shoulder a second ice-couloir was easily descended until the crest of the west rib could be gained. This was descended (scrambling, some fixed ropes/abseils) until a snow slope on the northern flank was reached, and descended to the Ghanohim Bamak. For parties seeking a sustained, mixed route, Kharchakund north ridge offers high quality ridge climbing from 5000 m to 6600 m. There are many other routes in the Gangotri worth repeating (see references listed below).

September is perhaps the optimum time to visit the area. The monsoon has then passed and the cold weather and snow experienced later in the year is also avoided. Our own expedition benefited from the excellent climbing conditions brought about by the lack of monsoon this year.

Summary

A British team comprising Robin Beadle, Bobby Gilbert, Rob Tresidder and Pete Scott, all of the Oread Mountaineering Club, climbed the north ridge of Kharchakund in alpine-style. The mountain is 6612 m and situated in the Gangotri glacier area of the Garhwal Himalaya. The summit was reached on the morning of 18 September, 1987 after a 5&frac; day ascent and a 1 day approach from base camp at Sundarvan. Descent was by the normal west ridge route and took 1&frac; days to base camp. Difficulties were encountered on rock up to Alpine VI, A1 and ice up to Scottish V. It was the first ascent of the ridge, and first British ascent of Kharchakund.

REFERENCES

1. Moran, Martin, 'Views on the Gangotri', 1986 Alpine Journal, Pp. 57-64, (over view and accounts of Bhagirathi I, west ridge and 'Sunshine Pillar*, Kedar Dome).
2. Mountain 84, Pp. 22-27, (overview, photos and account of Shivling east ridge).
3. Lindsay, Roy, 'The Scottish Garhwal Himalaya Expedition 1982 Final Report', (Ascent of Kirti Stambh and attempt on Kharchakund north ridge), AC library.

 

 

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SWARGAROHINI II (6247 m) lies in the Central Garhwal Himalaya In the Swargarohini range which divides the picturesque Har-ki-doon and Ruinsara valleys. The region is famous for its challenging peaks and was frequently used as a training ground by J.T.M. Gibson for the students of Doon School. Only two successful climbs of Swargarohini II had been recorded prior to this expedition. The first in 1974 by a Canadian team led by Dilsher Virk and Dr Charles Clarke and the second in 1985 by a team from Bombay led by Anil Kumar. We decided to approach the peak from the Ruinsara valley on a route similar to the one taken by the successful expeditions.

The motorable road brought us up to the last village Sankri (1830 m) where we arrived from Dehradun on 25 May. We started the next morning with 7 porters for the base camp at Ruinsara lake (3500 m) — a pleasant 3-day approach march with night halts at Taluka (1830 m) and Osla (2560 m) both places at which we were well supplied with food and shelter by the locals.

We spent 2 days in acclimatization. The first day we walked up to the base of the Bandarpunch glacier. The next day we went up a gully to the right of the Bali pass from where we had a goo3 view of the Swargarohini range. This gave us a good idea of the task ahead of us. After ferrying our load for another two days we were able to establish ABC at 4270 m on 2 June. The route went up a steep gully located slightly to the northwest of Ruinsara lake. We set up camp beside a huge rock beneath which we were fortunate to find water.

From ABC the route ran eastwards past the base of two icefalls directly towards the base of Swargarohini III (6209 m). The route then turned sharply to the right and met the base of a long ridge running southwards from the col between Swargarohini II and III. The area around the icefalls was heavily crevasse-ridden but fortunately the crevasses were well covered with snow both during the upward climb as well as during the descent. CI was located at 4880 m between the two icefalls. C2 was located at 5330 m at the base of the ridge.

On 4 June we dispensed with the services of Ranj or Singh, a porter we had retained to help us ferry loads up to ABC. The crook walked away with all the eatables, kerosene and utensils we had left at base camp for the return journey. The same day we met two members of an Indian (O.N.G.C.)¹ team who were reconnoitering for a route to Swargarohini I (6252 m). After looking at several alternatives they decided to take the route from the col of Swargarohini II and III. Since our route would be the same up to this camp we decided to support each other. Later they were to change their objective and climb Swargarohini II along with us.

 

C1 was established on 7 June. We set out the next day with al intentions of ferrying loads directly to C2 but had to abandon the idea prematurely at 5180 m because of the unexpected hot day which made walking on the snow very difficult.

That evening and the next two days we had heavy snowfall which prevented any climbing. Patil developed severe breathing problems during this time and on 10 June when the snowing lessened, we sent him down with two members of the O.N.G.C. team.

11 June was a fine day but we stayed put in our tent to allow the snowfall of the previous three days to consolidate. On the 12th we vacated CI and established C2. We also managed to bring up the stuff we had left at 5180 m.

The next three days proved to be the toughest days of the expedition. The main difficulty was in negotiating the final 370 m of rock, ice and snow which lay on the ridge beneath the col. We must admit that were it not for the presence of the O.N.G.C. team and especially their guides Devi Singh and Kushal 3ingh we might not have gone beyond this point We established C3 on 15 June at 5790 m at the base of the col.

16 June: The summit day. We left C3 at 7 a.m. and reached the summit at 10.30 a.m. after what seemed to be a long and tedious walk. After spending about 40 minutes on the summit taking photographs and doing puja we got down to the task of descending all the way back to base camp — a descent of about 2680 m. We reached at about 7 p.m. That night we celebrated with a camp fire around which we sat down till the embers grew dim, sipping drinks and making plans for more expeditions.

Members: Raju Wadalkar (leader), K. P. Patil and Allwyn T. Carvalho.

Photo 53

 

 

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OUR OBJECTIVE CB 54 (6096 m) was located at the head of Shar-mili glacier which terminates at the Samundar Tapu glacier in the Lahul region of Himachal Pradesh. It was first climbed in 1984.¹ We left Bombay on 15 August, and after three days of purchasing and packing of rations in Manali we set off for Batal on the 20th, With 3 HAPs.

 

We reached Batal and stayed in an old PWD rest house. Looking back towards the west were CB 13, CB 14 and a few other peaks. The next day we moved towards Dakka with 11 horses and reached there by 12 noon. We crossed the Sutli nala by wire ropes and pitched our tents. Next day the mules could not cross over as the water level was high and hence we had to hire a local gaddi to ferry our load. As we had started late we camped at Padder. Next morning the local gaddi refused to ferry load till BC, so we pitched a camp on the bank of Samundar Tapu lake.

On 24 August we started load ferrying for BC. The camp site was on medial moraine of Samundar Tapu glacier (4880 m). Although Sharmili glacier was diagonally opposite to our right on the northwest, we could not identify it and mistook it for some other icefall. Although CB 53 ridge and CB 54 were visible prominently, we mistook them to be CB 50 and CB 57. According to the map we assumed that CB 53 and CB 54 were in the adjoining icefall. Other peaks of the CB range were visible in the west. To the south, the ridge containing Minar and Pagoda was toward us and on the east, peaks of Bara Shigri were visible.

After three days of load ferrying we established our BC on the 27th. Next day we set off to load ferry to CI. After crossing the glacier to the lateral moraine we continued along it and entered the icefall to the right that we assumed to be the one containing CB 53 and CB 54. The camp site was selected to the right of the icefall on a rocky ground which we reached after a steep climb.

On 30 August we established our CI (5220 m). Next day we started to ferry load towards the probable C2 site. After two hours of climb, it had become obvious that we had entered the wrong icefall. Vinay and two HAPs went further ahead and considering the possibility of climbing another peak went till the base of CB 8. Assessing the possibilities they concluded that we could not make it in the remaining days left to us. So it was decided to return and enter the adjoining* icefall (Sharmili glacier). From CI we could see CB 35 at the junction of Chandi-ki-Shigri and Samundar Tapu glacier extending from Minar and Pagoda ridge.

On 1 September we ferried and dumped loads on the lateral moraine at the base of the waterfall coming down from the Sharmili glacier. The height of this waterfall is about 150 m. Next day we established ABC. On the 3rd we ferried load to CI A at 5200 m at the base of the icefall of CB 56. While Vinay and Anil with two HAPs Tikamram and Karamchand stayed there, the others* returned back to ABC.

On the 4th Vinay, Anil, Tikamram and Karamchand left the camp at 6.00 a.m., climbed the icefall of CB 56 for about 150 m, they the turned left into a rock gully running parallel to the lower portio of the SW face of CB 55, They continued parallel to the SW face CB 55. Facing directly was the east face of CB 54, They gain the snowfield in front of CB 54, turned and entered an amphitheat of CB 54 and CB 53 after crossing the bergschrund they climbed CB 54 along a rocky buttress to the right of the gully leading to the col of CB 54 and CB 53. The ridge was extremely sharp and made up of scree. After fixing all the ropes they had on this ridge there still remained 15 m of this ridge and another 30 m for the final summit. They had no alternative but to move up without any protection and they were successful in scaling the s mmit by 2.30 p.m.

From the summit they could see the peaks of Mulkila group, the KR group, peaks of Chandi-ki-Shigri, Bara Shigri and what could have been the peaks of Kulti valley. They placed flags and found a han kerchief with stale cashewnuts tied to it. After a halt of 10 minutes they started their d camp to summit and back).

On 6th we moved down to ABC after burning all our plastic refuse and burying the empty tin cans at Cl A. On 7th morning we ferried load to BC and by noon we established a lower camp. It started snowing heavily on the morning of the 10th, and by afternoon we pitched our camp on the bank of Sutli nala. On 11th we trekked for two hours from Dakka to Batal and on the same evening we reached Manali. We were back in Bombay on the 17th.

Members: Vinay Hegde (leader), Anil Joshi (deputy leader), Dhiren Pania, Sudhir Ilaut, Pradeep Dey, Ms. Anu Patel, Ajay Taskar.

Photos 54 to 60

 

 

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NAGOYA UNIVERSITY ALPINE CLUB Indian Himalaya Expedition party consisting of three university students (L Ogane T. Takahasi and myself) made base camp at 3600 m in the Kulti valley on 25 July 1987.

We climbed almost the same route as the R.A.F.M.A. party led by A. J. Mt Smyth in June 1955.¹ We made CI at 4150 m and C2 at 5000 m within 4 days after establishment of base camp using 180 m fixed rope to make the climbing route safe.

 

But after making C2 one member was incapacitated by stomach trouble. So we were forced to take rest for 5 days in base camp. Then we spent 2 days at CI to get acclimatized. We climbed Tila-ka-laEr (5965 m) which was climbed by the R.A.F.M.A. party 32 years ago. It was easy and very comfortable climbing fronx C2 under a perfect blue sky.

After resting for 2 days at base camp, we decided to climb Akela Killa (6005 m) and CB 47. Ogane and I started from base camp on 10 August, and then reached C2 on the 11th. Next day we had to wait in C2 on account of a dense fog. On the 13th the weather was no better, but nevertheless we decided to go because we had not enough time. We left C2 at 3.30 a.m. then climbed along the crescent ridge of Jori peak (5790 m) to avoid the risk of avalanche. The upper part of the crescent ridge comes against a wall of Jori peak. To skirt under this wall we had to descend from the ridge using a rope. And then III-IV grade rock climbing led us to the col between Akela Killa and Jori peak. From this col we pitted ourselves against the steep snow-face of Akela Killa. After climbing for 2 hours we reached just below the summit. But the summit was guarded by a heavy cornice. Luckily Ogane managed to overcome this cornice and we stood on top of Akela Killa at 10.30 a.m. After taking some photographs we hurried up CB 47. CB 47 looks- like the shoulder of Akela Killa (which is CB 46) looking from the side of Kulti valley, and was a much easier climb. Descending was much more difficult than ascending especially because of snow and dense fog. We reached the C2 at 3.00 p.m. Next day we went down to base camp after clearing our fixed ropes.

We left Kulti valley on the 15th to be in time for the festival at Keylong.

Photos 61-62-63

 

 

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FROM THE ROHTHANG PASS one can see three nalas draining from different valleys into Chandra river from the north. All these valleys are excellent climbing areas which are not frequented by climbers.

Our expedition visited Kulti nala, which is in the centre during July-August 1987. An advantage was that the base camp can be, reached in 6/7 hrs from the roadhead at Khoksar. At the head ofc the nala lies a broken icefall which blocks the way to the upper valley. The passage for the upper valley is over a rock-wall knowr* as Laldhang. But an easy track over exposed scree leads to th^ top of the wall from the left. The route follows the true right of the main icefall. CI at 4420 m was at the junction of the Kulti icefall and the glacier coming down from peak Sri Lata 5546 m (18,199 ft). From here the route turns to right going over the main icefall to C2 which was at 5030 m. From here the route diverts towards left to the peaks Jori c. 5790 m (c. 19,000 ft) and Tambu c. 5790 m (c. 19,000 ft). Towards the right are peaks CB 42 and CB 44. The col between Jori and Tambu known as Belvedere (5640 m) is a gateway to the Central Lahul upper plateau. C3 at 5490 m was located between Jori and Tambu. The col can be reached in about 3 hrs from C3. A peak of c. 5790 m was climbed on 20th July to the north of the col.

Another peak Sara Pahar 5621 m (18,445 ft) which rises above Sara Flats was climbed on 25 July after putting two camps at 4570 m and 5425 m.

A note on the area:
Kulti valley:

First visitors to Kulti valley were two German climbers in 1934-They climbed Sri Lata (5546 m) (A bottle containing a note on height and names of the climbers was found by a Western Himalaya Mountaineering Institute party in 1984).

In 1955 RAFMA climbed 7 peaks and explored this valley (H.J. Vol. XIX, p. 147). In 1984 Advance training course of WHMI visited the area and climbed Sri Lata.

In 1985 an Army training camp was conducted in this area. They attempted Sara Pahar, but suffered two casualties. (There is no record of this team, but locals from Khoksar and Manali confirm the deaths).

In May 1986 a team from Pune visited this valley, but being too early in the season couldn't progress much.

In November 1986 a team from Bombay attempted Sara Pahar reaching upto 5340 m before retreating due to bad weather. (H.J. Vol. 43, p. 139).

Khoksar Nala:

This nala comes down to Khoksar village. There are many peaks of 5500 m — 6000 m at the head of this nala. But initial part being Very steep there is no possibility of taking mules above the village making logistics difficult. This nala has a pass at its head known ll Tempo la (5000 m) which leads to Yotse or Darcha on Milang Racier in the north. It is also possible to attempt Gepang Goh peaks from this nala. There is also a passage from Kulti nala to Tempo la used by shepherds.

Kukti Nala:

This nala leads to the southern approaches for CB group of peaks. At the head of this nala at 4110 m is a huge glacier from where peaks can be attempted. There is no record of any attempt from this nala.

Photos 64-65-66

 

 

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GUR (5709 m) lies on the south of the Greater Himalayan range in v the Kishtwar region of Jammu and Kashmir. Not much mountaineering has been organised to this region.

As the region was quite unknown and no information about these mountains was easily available, it took a long time to collect the$ necessary data. Then we applied for the approval from Indian!! Mountaineering Foundation. We knew about the attempt made byj the Chandannagar Mountaineering Association of Calcuttta, and the General Secretary of that Association was quite fast in sending! a copy of the report.
14 September: At 6.30 am. we left Jammu for Kishtwar. It a tiring journey of about 10 hours, after Batot the road was under repair due to land slides at several points. We arrived in Kishtwa at 4.30 p.m. Dr Vinod Kumar Bhutyal was at the bus stand to helg us. We shifted the loads to the dak bungalow, about a kilometr down the main road.
15 September: Made purchases of vegetables, kerosene. One us went to the post office to send telegrams of our arrival at Kisht war while Prashant and myself went to the police station and District Magistrate to inform them about our expedition and trekkin programme. By the time we came out of the police station a pr test march passed through the market road. At 11 a.m. we ca to know that the buses were not going to leave out of Kishtwar dti to the tense situation and riots in the town. By evening the nouncement regarding imposition of curfew was made. We wet! not able to go out of the dak bunglow. The situation remained changed for three days. On 18 September, we approached the D.C. and the D.I.G. of J & K Police who helped us by providing a Polil truck to go up to Patimohla. We lost four days here.
18 September: Reached Patimohla and after arranging for mules left the same day for Ekhala. We arrived in Ekhala at 8.30 pj After Patimohla about two km ahead there is a steep climb for half an hour to the Tilmil pass. Here onwards the route is at about the same level. The grand valley opened in front of us and down below the Marwah river was shining in the moonlight. At Ekhala we stayed at the forest rest house.

19 September: Left Ekhala at 7 a.m. and reached Suid late in the evening after a trek of 22 km. The route passes through thick jungles along the true left of Marwah river. On the way had meals at Sorbatti and tea at Sondar. There is a forest as well as an irrigation department rest ho se at Sondar. At Suid there is no rest house. We stayed at the hospital premises. Between Sondar and Suid we crossed the Kibar nala.

At Suid we arranged for the porters Radhakrishna and Tarachand who had been to the base camp earlier. Suid is a village situated on both sides of Nanth nala.
20 September: Left Suid at 8 a.m. After crossing Nanth nala continued along the right bank of the stream towards the east; after an hour's walk crossed over to the left bank of the nala. At 9.30 a.m. we were at Honzar where after a brief halt we continued till Gug- hat, a beautiful camping ground where we rested for an hour and then continued till late in the evening to Hawal. At Hawal there is no rest house.
21 September: We started walking towards Sattarchin our base camp site. On the way we came across a beautiful camping ground at Handal. After a brief halt here we reached Sattarchin at 5 p.m. All along the route there is thick forest of deodar, kayar, pine, chinar and bhojpatra. We paid off the muleteers and asked them to return on the 27th. Sattarchin is a vast plain at the base of the Nanth valley. We established our base camp here at 3350 m.

Nanth valley as well as the site at base camp, Sattarchin are quite clean. It is probably because not many mountaineers visit this area. At Sattarchin we did find few empty tins scattered, probably these were buried after use but got exposed due to floods. We buried those tins again. The shepherds who bring their animals in the thousands during summer are the real threat to the ecology in this area. The destruction of trees and wild life here is due to these outsiders. When we talked to some of the forest guards we learnt that there are plans to stop this over-grazing.

We carried 30 litres of kerosene but we found that the local porters are reluctant to use it. They prefer using fire wood. But we insisted that they use the kerosene stoves.
22 September: From Sattarchin we see Brammah I in the south, Brammah II in the southeast, Eiger in the east and many other unnamed peaks. We cannot see the peak Gur due to its proximity, It lies in the north.

We divided the team in three groups, one stayed at base camp. One group with Prashant left for a trek to Brammahsar (4420 m) towards Krialsar glacier, to get a good view of the peak from the opposite side. And the third team along with Chandrakant, Radha-krishna and myself left for a recce on Gur to find a suitable camp site for CI. We started climbing towards the north along the right of the glacier coming down from Gur. After about 2 hours of climbing we found that there was no water available except the stream on our right. To fetch water from this stream was quite difficult After a further climb of about an hour we could locate the boulders where the earlier team had sited their CI. To reach the boulders we had to climb down the steep walls along the stream. By 1 p.m. we were at the boulders where after dumping the loads we returned to base camp. While returning we did not cross the stream but instead took the route along the left bank of the glacier. This route is much easier and shorter. The trekking team climbed through the lateral moraine of Kiralsar glacier and reached the Brammahsar. The lake is frozen now. After a brief halt at the lake the team climbed the ridge to the north of the lake to have a look at Gur and returned to base camp at 3 p.m.
23 September: Chandrakant, Prashant, Radhakrishna and myself left base camp at 8 a.m. and climbed along the left bank of the glacier, and reached the CI site by 12.10 p.m. The height of this place is around 4420 m. There was no wind and it was warm there, j§ the whole valley was clouded. The CI was established below a huge boulder. Chandrakant and myself left for a recce while Radha and Prashant stayed at CI. After an hour's walk towards the east we came near a glacier coming down a col to the north. The glacier was about 300 m wide with huge crevasse and the steep wall along its side could not be a possible route. We returned by 4 p.m. At base camp the trekking team went to the Brammah glacier. They visited the snout of the glacier from where Nant nala emerges. They went little further over the huge moraine of Brammah glacier and found a few lakes in it.
24 September: Chandrakant, Radha and I woke up at 6 a.m. an< found the weather was cloudy. We started at 8 a.m. for a recce towards the north. Prashant stayed at C1, The weather worsens and the poor visibility made it difficult to locate our position. There was no wind but the clouds coming up the valley dropped the visibility further. We still continued to look for a site for C2. Non-availability of water nearby made it impossible to establish the camp. By 12.30 p.m. we gained a height of 5030 m. There was, possibility of snowfall. We waited for half an hour to have a vie beyond the col, but in vain. The whole route up to this point w; through loose rocks and scree. We returned at CI at 2.30 p.m
25 September: In the night there was snowfall and the weat! remained as bad as yesterday. There was a light cold breeze from the east. We thought that it might probably clear the clouds but the weather remained unchanged. We kept waiting throughout the day. We had already lost four days in Kishtwar and the prevailing conditions were not encouraging. The possibility of any further progress became remote.

At base camp it had been raining all day so all the members had to remain confined to the tents.
26 September: At 9 a.m. we wound up the CI and returned to base camp. We reached base at 1 p.m. with heavy loads. It rained heavily in the night and in the morning we saw some peaks through the clouds, totally snow-covered.
27 September: The mules arrived in the evening as they were late by one day due to the rains.
28th September: We left base camp after winding up at 9 a.m. and arrived in Honzar in the evening at 6.30 p.m. We had a hot water bath in the hot springs and freshened up.
29 September: Left Honzar in the morning at 8 a._m. and via Suid and Sondar reached Sorbatti at 6 p.m. Here we stayed in a hut.
30 September: We left {Sorbatti in the morning at 8 a.m. and via Ekhala reached Patimohla at 6 psm. and stayed there in a roadside Hotel.
1 October: We could not leave Patimohla as the bus did not reach due to the poor road condition as it had rained heavily for the last three days. Here, we came to know that there was still curfew in the nights at Kishtwar.
2 October: We decided to walk to Palmar for the bus. Here we again hired mules to carry our loads and reached Palmar at 10 a.m. The morning bus again had not turned up; we waited till in the evening and caught the 4 p.m. bus. We reached Kishtwar at 7 p.m. and stayed at Maya Lodge as we found it cheaper than the dak bunglow and closer to the bus stand.
3 October: We left Kishtwar and reached Jammu in the evening.

Members: Shashikant Aminbhavi (leader), Prashant Tale (leader) Chandrakant Chepe and Radhakrishna (guide).

 

 

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BETWEEN 15 August and 26 September 1987 a team of six from the United Kingdom visited the remote and rarely visited Shimshal Valley, a tributary of the Hunza river in the northern territory of Pakistan.

They successfully made the first ascents of both north and south summits of *Yazghil Sar 5933 m (19,465 ft), an isolated snow and ice peak situated near the confluence of the Yukshin-Garden and Yazghil glaciers. They also made a photographic record of the region.

The team was led by Roy Lindsay, and included Pete and Claire Foster who reached the north summit on 7 September 1987. Pete and Claire's route was via the northwest face and north ridge, being made over three days from a base camp on a lateral moraine adjacent to the Yazghil glacier at 3600 m (11,800 ft). It had taken four days prior to this ascent to reconnoitre the peak and stock an advanced camp.

The south summit (higher of the two summits by approximately 100 m) was reached on 8 September 1987 by Ernie McGlashan, Jack Brindle and John O'Reilly. They used the same approach and climbed the interconnecting ridge between the summits. Again the route took three days climbing, using the advanced camp established on the NW slopes at 4570 m (15,000 ft) and a bivouac ledge hacked out of the ice on the north bounding ridge of the NW face at 5180 m (17,000 ft). Tafat Shah, a local porter, informed the expedition that the name Yazghil Sar means Teak of glaciers', an apt choice.

The climbing was Alpine PD grade, involving some route finding difficulty, the need to negotiate crevassed glacier, some ice-slopes at 50° and a minor bergschrund-cornice to negotiate to gain the summit ridge. The four day trek from the Karakoram Highway up the Shimshal gorge to base camp, reached on 1 September 1987, made the situation feel all the more remote and it was necessary to be completely self sufficient. Fortunately water was to be found at both base and advanced camp.

The weather was excellent for both the walk-in and climbing the mountain, until tfce 9 September 1987 when cloud fell to about 5500 m (18,000 ft). The snow level dropped 1000 m. At this stage the expedition having made an extensive photographic record of the area and having achieved its mountaineering objectives, left Shimshal intent on spending the remainder of the available time in the Naltar valley, further south in the Hunza region. Before leavin Shimsal however the expedition was fortunate in sighting some rar flora and fauna — Eidelweiss in profusion, Ibex and Snow Leopard.

* The height of Yazghil Sar is given variously as:
5432 m (17,820 ft), AMS Series U502 (1955)
5964 m (19,567 ft), Jerzy Wala (1973)
5933 m (19,465 ft), Yutaka Saito (1984)
This expedition's altimeter read 5822 m (19,100 ft) on the summit.
It should be noted that Yazghil Sar N and S summits, to be found 75° 24' 36° 20' north, are not to be confused with Yazghil N and S Domes (7740 m) which are due east of Disteghil Sar (7885 m) at the head of Yazghil glacier 15 km SW of Yazghil Sar.

 

 

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THE WEST GERMAN Munich Broad Peak Expedition 1986 was a privately sponsored expedition. It comprised the following members, the majority of them belonging to the German Alpine Association (DAV): Franz Piffl leader of the expedition, Peter Brill, Axel Mattschas, Max Wallner, Fritz Schreinmoser, Klaus Schumann, Kurt Lynke and Ulrike Kriiger.

A Swiss group under leader Max Eiselin joined us as they could not get a permit for Broad Peak. It consisted of the following members: Frank Tschierky, Bruno Sprecher, Hans Kaiser, Daniel Schaer, Alain Fenart, the Austrian Sebastian Holzl, and Henrietta Eberwein and also the German Rudi Dufner.

On 31 May 1986 we started from Frankfurt and flew via Istanbul to Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan.

After landing at Islamabad, we remained there for 5 days to complete all the remaining expedition requirements. After all the problems had been solved, we travelled by two buses with all our luggage via Chilas and Bunji to Skardu, the capital of Baltistan.

After 3 days we drove by jeeps and tractors, onto which we had loaded our baggage, through the picturesque Shigar valley along the Haramosh and Masherbrum range towards the north, till we reached the narrow ravines of the Braldo river, which lead towards the east to Dassu.

In Dassu, a small oasis in the valley of the Braldo river, we hired 150 porters for our group of 16 people, for carrying our loads as also their own food and also tarpaulins for the 11 days' trek, via the Baltoro glacier to the base camp. We trekked first to the camping ground Alingo (crossing the Braldo rivers with a rope-bridge), then rested 2-3 hours and proceeded via Gomboro, Osongas to Askole, the last inhabited oasis in the Braldo valley and the area of the ‘king of the valley’ the Haji Mahdi. Here it was necessary to rest for one day to enable us to buy 5 goats for the porters; and some more provisions (eggs, flour, pulses) were also purchased.

The trek continued via the camping ground of Bardomal to Paiju, a green slope at the south flank of the Paiju peak (6600 m) where the porters slaughtered the goats they had brought with them, and aIso prepared chappatis to provide for the trek ahead. For this reason it was obligatory to have a rest day at Paiju, which is at about 3500 m.

From the Baltoro glacier which starts here, we trekked via the flimping grounds of Robutzo, Lilingo, Urdukas, Gore and Concordia to the base camp (4800 m) during which we had fantastic views of the Trango Towers, Muztagh Tower, the Lopbsang group, the Masherbrum group, the Gasherbrums and also of Broad Peak. While we trekked over Concordia we also saw Sia Kangri, Baltoro Kangri and finally K2, the neighbour of Broad Peak.

At base camp, which we reached on 19 June, we erected, besides our own tents, also the great kitchen tent, which also served as a common tent. The base camp was situated on a middle-moraine of the Godwin Austen glacier at the level of the beginning of the ice-flank of the west ridge of Broad Peak. For starting up Broad Peak, we had to cross the eastern side of the glacier, whose glacier-rivulets and lakes were lightly frozen over in the morning (danger of breaking through!) while in the afternoon strong flood currents made a crossing difficult.

The first recce started three days later for CI (5550 m), during which we had to cross a steep, dangerous slope (after bad weather periods, extreme danger of avalanches). The equally steep and dangerous slopes of the west ridge which followed do not provide good conditions after July because they change to water-covered brittle snow-melts which have to be traversed with the utmost care.

After a five day period of bad weather, we undertook another acclimatization climb to CI and further to C2 (6100 m), but had to climb down again on account of renewed bad weather conditions. The space in the camps was very limited. In CI, only 2, maximum 3 tents could be erected, and in C2 only 3 but maximum 5 tents.

On 4 July, we climbed again to CI and partly towards C2, along with most of the members of the Swiss group. Two days later, we overcame the troublesome 1100 m high climb from C2 to C3 at about 7200 m. At this height, some of us suffered from high altitude problems, such as headache, nausea, and reduced capabilities. During these days, however, the conditions on the mountain were good because the snow had settled, there was little wind and the weather was comparatively good.

On 7 July, 1986, Peter Brill, Fritz Schreinmoser and Klaus Schumann along with Bruno Sprecher, Sebastian Holzl and Henrietta, Eberweim left at 4 a.m. from C3 to go over the ridge between the. middle and main peaks (about 7800 m) and over the adjoining rock ridge to try to reach the top of Broad Peak.

In the afternoon of the same day, Schreinmoser and Holzl reached' the main summit of Broad Peak (8047 m), Brill climbed the middlt peak (8016 m) and Eberwein with Sprecher achieved the forepe (8011 m), while KJauss Schumann had to return from a height 7900 m.

One day later, 8 July, Wallner, Mattschas, Schaer, Fenart an Dufner also made attempts on the summit. During the day, Sena succeeded on the middle peak, and Wallner and Fenart on the to peak. Unfortunately Dufner had to return from about 7900 m, Mattschas from around 7500 m, both suffering from frostbite.

During the following bad weather period Lynke, Kruger and Piffl planned a further attempt on the summit as soon as the weather improved. On 14 July, this group therefore climbed again via CI to C2, where Kruger remained behind and the others proceeded further to C3 on 16 July. On account of the preceding bad weather period, the earlier trail was covered with deep snow.

Lynke and Piffle by themselves had no chance to make a trail from C3 to the top. A Yugoslavian group which happened to be in C3 at this time, was not yet ready to try to reach the top. A Spanish group had come to C3 with Lynke and Piffle to try and make a trail to the summit. All these efforts came to naught on account of the worsening weather conditions the following day. For Lynke and Piffle these would have been the last possible days for an attempt on the peak. On account of the new snowfall and fog, they climbed down again, without having reached their goal.

On 18 July, we dismantled base camp and divided the loads between the porters, who had previously been instructed and had arrived punctually. And the following day, we trekked for seven days, in bad weather, back to Dassu and drove from there in jeeps to Skardu, from where we could fly to Islamabad.

 

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