EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. THE JAPANESE KANGCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
2. GURUDONGMAR CALLING
3. THE BRITISH MAKALU-KANGCHUNGTSE EXPEDITION, 1980
4. BARUNTSE EXPEDITION, 1980/1981 (WINTER)
5. KANG GURU, 1981
6. GANESH HIMAL V, 1980
7. THE SOUTH FACE OF DHAULAGIRI CLIMBED
8. NANDA DEVI, 1981
9. ASCENT OF JOGIN II
10. ENCOUNTERS WITH DHAULADHAR
11. A WINTER FORAY
12. CORDOBA-KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1980
13. NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION, 1980
14. ASCENT OF KANJUT SAR FROM WEST FACE

 

 

THE JAPANESE Kangchenjunga Expedition was sent to Nepal by HA.J. (The Himalayan Association of Japan) for the purpose of traversing between Kangchenjunga Main Peak (8598 m) and Yalung Kang (8420 m). The party consisted of 22 members, led by Kinichi Yamamori.

On 16 February the advance party, which consisted of Kikuchis deputy leader, and other 7 members, started at 31am with 200 porters and established base camp (5500 m) on 16th March at Pache's Grave. Then on 22 March Camp 1 (6150 m) on the side wall of Hamp Ridge and on the 29th Camp 2 (6450 m) on the upper glacier were made and they reached Great Shelf on the 31st.

On the other side, the main party, which consisted of Yamamori and 15 other members, started at Dharan Bazaar with 450 porters and reached Ramser on 15 March. From here, they employed 100 special porters and made two camps on the Yalung glacier. After finishing load-ferries, they reached base camp and joined with the advance party on 31 March.

On 14 April they made advance base camp (Camp 3 — 7300 m) on Great Shelf and began to climb in two groups — Main Peak party and Yalung Kang party.

On 20 April W (Yalung Kang) C4 (7850 m) was made on the foot of a couloir which was running down in a stretch from the summit of the Sickle.

On 23rd M (Main Peak) C4 (7850 m) was made on the right side of the Sickle. When they finished stocking up to the last camp, all members returned to Ramser (4350 m) to rest.

On 8 May MC5 (8300 m) was made on the foot of Evans Couloir and 5 members stayed there.

On the same day WC5 (8250 m) was made inside the Yalung Kang Couloir and 5 members stayed there.

On 9 May the weather was fine. Main Peak party started from the camp at 4.00 a.m. with breathing oxygen and reached the summit at 11.51 a.m. because of losing much time at the Evans Chimney as deep snow prevented them from climbing fast. Yalung Kang partv started from the camp atj 5.15 a.m. with breathing oxygen and stood on top at 12.30 p.m. on account of deep snow.

They gave up the plan of traversing peaks by two members each because the time was limited. However, they fixed poles on each top and the research party who stayed at BC got a clear comparative observations through telescope. The attack party returned to ABC on the same day.

 

 

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GURUDONGMAR,¹ a prominent feature of 6715 m, forms a part of Donkhya range and is situated very close to the international border. Gurudongmar is a Tibetan word meaning Incarnation of Guru Rimpo- che (Buddha). Gurudongmar is a magnificent snow-clad peak reminding one of a sage in meditation. Its scenic beauty is enhanced by the everlasting glaciers embracing it on all sides with a huge lake to its north. The lake, approximately 1 1/2 miles in circumference, remains filled with crystal-clear icy water and adds immensly to the beauty of an otherwise absolutely barren and rocky area.

A team from the Assam Rifles decided to attempt this peak under the leadership of Narbu Sherpa. All the members assembled by 30 March. The first stage of acclimatization was carried out at Chhaten (9000 ft) from 4 to 11 April. The second and third stages were done at Thangu (13,000 ft) and Giagong (15,500 ft). This stay of 15 days at Thangu and Giagong was utilized in carrying out vigorous and extensive training under the guidance of Tashi, an instructor from HMI, Darjeeling.

The team left Giagong on 27 April and established a base camp at the height of 17,000 ft and settled down comfortably. On 28 April recce was carried out of route for advance base camp which was to be established at 18,000 ft on the northeastern approach as planned. The party which had left at 0600 hrs returned to base camp at 1900 hrs fully exhausted. The news brought by the recce party was most discouraging. The NE approach was full of crevasses and it would be fatal to undertake it. The blow to the complete planning at such an early stage was quite stunning. It had put further movements in complete chaos. An alternative route from the west was planned. So on 29 April the western approach was recceed. The recce party returned to base camp by evening after climbing to about 17,800 ft. Most of it was a steep climb on hard snow. On reaching 17,700 ft the party could get a glimpse of the peak and mentally appreciate the likely route they would follow. The western approach was thus finalized. The party's sagging morale brightened with this news. On 1 May the team succeeded in establishing an advance camp at a height of 18,000 ft at the foot of a glacier. 13 members established Camp 1 at the height of 20,000 ft on 6 May. The route from advance camp to Camp 1 on a glacier was very treacherous. Every step had to be taken with due care on hard snow.

The members were testing their first thrill in this adventure. Now it was the question of climbing another 2000-odd feet to clench the victory. Nature by this time had probably taken notice of this challenge thrown down by a human being. So to test the metal of these adventurers, at about 1400 hrs on 6 May a strong wind accompanied by heavy snow lashed out its fury on the camp. The first round of the bout was over by early morning on 7 May. Taking advantage of the improved weather, recce was carried out for Camp 2. The recce party reached 21,000 ft and selected a camp site but as soon as they returned the weather started deteriorating. On 8 May conditions became so bad that it was difficult to stay at Camp 1. All the tents were submerged in snow. A strong gale was lashing the camp from the southwestern side. Now it became a question of survival. It was decided to leave the tents and stores at Camp 1 and all members to move to advance base camp. Such was the fury of weather that it took almost 3 hours for the party to cover the distance of 1 kilometre.

From 9 to 12 May Nature was playing hide-and-seek. The weather was perfect in the morning and by the time a party decided to move up the weather would deteriorate. On 13 May a recce party consisting of Capt A. S. Negi and 3 members could reach and establish a camp at 21,000 ft with great difficulty. Ferrying the stores was a great problem, but with grit and determination 8 members reached Camp 2 along with essential stores. On 15 May the leader decided to move up in two batches.

One rope was made up of the expedition leader, Padam and Kami Tshering, while the other rope comprised the deputy leader, Tashi and Fhurba Sherpa. The weather was behaving well, probably to make a mockery of these determined souls. Slowly they were covering the distance. When they reached a small hump at 21,750 ft came a bombshell. There was a steep drop in front of them and the crevasse in front was just not negotiable. From that point they could see the summit very clearly. The distance of nearly 400 ft and they would be on the top. But it was not to be. Nobody dared to talk. On 16 May they started coming down from 21,000 ft after winding up the camp.

Next day on 17 May in the morning all the members gathered. It was decided to take the NE approach considered dangerous and as such discarded by the team on the very first day.

This time Narbu selected 12 toughest members from the team to move with him. They succeeded in establishing a new ABC at 18,000 ft on 20 May. The going was not as bad as thought earlier. The moment the party reached the camp, the weather started getting rough. A strong wmd accompanied by snow blizzard pounced on the camp. By this time all the members had become immune to this type of phenomenon and faced it coolly.

No sooner the recce party established camp at 19,500 ft the weather started playing its old tricks. Till 22 May the party had perforce to stay here at 18,000 due to extremely hostile weather. Time was running out and it was considered to move to Camp 1 by 23 May. Despite bad weather the party succeeded in moving to Camp 1. On 24 May Capt Negi with 2 members set out for recce of the route to the summit. They marked the route up to 21,000 ft and had to return as the weather was getting rough. 25 May was proving to be the blackest day for expedition. The weather had gone so bad that the leader started thinking of winding up. On 26 May Capt Negi brought the news that the summit can be scaled provided the weather shows some mercy. By 1500 hrs all the members reached the Assault Camp at 20,000 ft.

27 May would witness the final battle. Everyone was dreaming about the peak but their dreams were shattered by the terrifying wind and snow. All the members got up at 0400 hrs to find a dark cloudy sky. The weather was again getting hostile. One more day had to be wasted and incidentally only one day's ration was left. They utilized that day in planning the final assault in! greater detail and praying for good weather. In the final plan it was decided to make only one group of 4 persons to go to the top. They were Capt Negi, Phurba, Padam and Kami.

On 28 May all the members got ready by 0430 hrs. The distance to cover was over 2000 ft. Narbu and Mohinder Singh were watching their progress. They could see every member struggling to negotiate the rocky portion. After the rocky portion of about 100 ft was successfully negotiated, the remaining portion was comparatively easy.

Exactly at 1230 hrs on 28 May Capt Negi and his team of Assam Rifles reached the summit. The weather was very clear. The view from the summit was glorious. All the members were overwhelmed with joy.

Gurudongmar peak was climbed after 44 years.

 

 

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MAKALU lies 12 miles SE of Everest on the border of Nepal and Tibet.It is at 27,824 ft (8481 m) the world's fifth highest peak. There have been fourteen ascents of the peak since the first by the French in the spring of 1955. Our expedition was fortunate not to have any other expedition on the mountain and to be able to choose our route after a thorough reconnaissance. We were all in agreement that whatever route we chose we would attempt it in Alpine style and that we would patiently fully acclimatize on lesser peaks before attempting Makalu. To this end we were given permission to climb a number of minor summits and also the 25,066 ft (7640 m) Kangchungtse, sometimes known as Makalu II.

Between us we have ascended many Himalayan peaks, such as Bandaka (Hindu Kush), Pik Lenin (Pamirs), Broad Peak (Kara- koram), Changabang (India), Kangchenjunga, Jannu, Kusum Kanguru, Nuptse (Nepal) in Alpine style and have come to realize that small groups like ours can climb high with minimum support, equipment and organization. Not only is this eminently satisfying, because all the team are totally involved on the mountain, but it is also relatively inexpensive and the impact made on the Himalayan environment is minimal. The inclusion of Ariane in the climbing team was, for us, a new departure. The 'experiment' proved highly successful, providing a balance that the usual all-male expeditions do not have.

Approach March

On 6 September, the expedition flew to Tumlingtar and reached base camp at 15,748 ft (4800 m) on 16 September after a mostly-wet and leech-infested walk through the late monsoon season. The 50 porters returned to their homes, mostly around the environs of Sedua. One additional local Sherpa, Angsering, was retained to help with wood gathering, mushrooming and portering to our second base camp. At litis stage we were accompanied by a guru who was making a pilgrimage to holy caves in the area and a herbalist from Sydney, Australia, both of whom left after a few days.

Acclimatization Period

Between 18 and 28 September, we established another base camp at an altitude of 17,717 ft (5400 m) on a bend where the Chago glacier meets the Barun glacier and amongst grass and flowers. From this camp we climbed Pt! 6170 m, Pt 6250 m, Pt 6350 m and a southern peak of Chago at 660Q m. From these vantage points we had excellent views of Kangchungtse and Makalu west side as well as superb views of Lhotse and the east side of Everest which should prove useful for future projects.

Kangchungtse

We left base camp (17,717 ft) on 1 October and had our first camp at 19,000 ft (5800 m) on the medial moraine of the Chago glacier. Our second camp was at 21,000 ft (6400 m) where, unfortunately, Ariane was forced to descend due to a severe throat infection. Georges and I accompanied her down on skis, to the moraine and then she made her own way down to base camp. That was on the morning of 3 October. During the afternoon Georges, Roger and I pushed on up to camp the night at about 22,000 ft, where Roger and I thankfully left our skis. The next day we broke trail to the Makalu La 24,029 ft (7400 m), with Georges laboriously pulling his skis up behind. On 5 October we left camp on the col and climbed up a fairly steep (60°) gully to the) west of the ordinary route and reached the summit ridge, which was heavily corniced. We scrambled along the airy, J-mile ridge to its second summit, possibly the highest at 25,066 ft (7640 m). Georges had left his skis at the south end of the ridge and from there proceeded to ski down difficult snow on the eastern side and round to the Makalu La, where we had a second, very windy night. On 6 October we descended to base camp after a very satisfying climb. Georges skied down a mixture of powder, crust and ice, all the way from the Makalu La to the moraine, thus making the first ski-descent of this peak. Roger and myself, a comparative novice, skied down from 22,000 ft. We thought the skis were more trouble than they were worth. Ariane was at the lower base camp, where the doctor from the Japanese Baruntse Expedition had kindly given her medicaments for her sore throat and a fever she was running. She decided to walk out early and await our return in Sedua, where she would recover more easily.

Makalu Southeast Ridge

After some discussion as to choice of route on Makalu, we decided upon attempting a traverse of the mountain via the SE ridge and down the original French NW route to the Makalu La. The only information we had was from the Dyhrenfurths' article in Mountain, which told us that 20 Japanese, helped by 32 Sherpas, had climbed the ridge in 1970.1 Six years later a Spanish Expedition repeated the route.² The only other information as to route, etc., was from Angsering, who thought both teams had got on to the ridge half-way along, via one of Makalu's southern glaciers. Our plan was to climb all of the ridge from our base camp at 15,748 ft, which would give a very satisfying ridge climb. We left camp on 14 October, during indifferent weather, hoping it represented the tail-end of the monsoon and that by the time we were crossing the summit there would be a lull in the wind systems. Our sacs averaged 27 kg, which were carried for us up the initial grassy hillside to the ridge by Nima Tensing, Angsering and Angphurba. We shook hands and they scampered back down to base, leaving us to plod on up into the mist and along the snowed-up ridge. We camped at 21,000 ft.

 

On 15 October the sun came up over Kangchenjunga, climbing on the snows of Lhotse and Everest. We crossed over peak 6260 m and 6825 m during the day and descended to the col at 22,300 ft (6800 m). There had been dense mist, high winds and during the night about three inches of snow fell.

On 16 October we slowly climbed up to a flat boss of snow at about 24,250 ft (7400 m). Harsh winds and heavy sacs slowed our pace and the wind blew in fierce gusts all night.

The next day, after about 1500 ft of difficult mixed climbing, we reached a point below a huge black gendarme. The wind here wag particularly savage and we were unable to move along the crest of the ridge. We therefore dropped down the northern side and into Makalu's very isolated eastern ewm. We had great difficulty wading through thigh-deep snow and battling against fierce winds and snow blowing down the cwm. We set up camp below point 8010 m (26,280 ft). On the 18th we continued up the cwm for about a mile and climbed directly up towards the summit slopes. We pitched camp at 26,500 ft, in very high winds which came through the col between Pt 8010 and the summit, accompanied by cracking sounds. We were pinned down in our Holubar 3-man tent for the whole of the 19th because of the turbulence and dense mist and snow reducing visibility to a maximum of 20 yards. By this time our food, mainly tsampa and Granola, was running dangerously low.

The 20th dawned no better, we were in Makalu's plume, with the winter winds now blowing from the west. There had been no respite as expected and we had no alternative but to retreat the way we had come. This was particularly unfortunate as it would have been less trouble for us to have gone up and over to the Makalu La from our high point than to spend, as we did, 3 days reversing our route to the col at 6800 m and then to find our way1 down a steep, unknown and heavily crevassed glacier. After a dreadful night on the 20th, at 25,500 ft, up all night digging massive drifts of snow off the tent and repairing severed guy-ropes, we arrived back at base camp on the afternoon of 22 October to rest up and to savour those delicious few days of clear head and returning strength.

For me it was the end of the expedition, with a plane to catch back to family responsibilities. I walked out to Tumlingtar in four days with half the gear, sending back porters for the rest which Georges, Roger and Ang Phurba's staff brought down from the second base camp.

Roger's Solo Attempt

Whilst awaiting the porters from 26 to 31 October, Roger took advantage of bright, clear weather to attempt to climb Makalu on its west side. From the top base camp, where Georges and Ang Phurba waited in support, Roger hiked up to the moraine camp and the next day ascended a rib to bivouac at the foot of the prominent gully that bounds the left side of the west face. On the 28th he climbed the gully at 50° and reached the northwest ridge some 500 ft above the Makalu La. Here the winds were met and the ridge was now wind-blown ice. He retreated back to base the same evening, after a very bold solo bid up untrodden ground.

Members: Doug Scott, Roger Baxter-Jones, Georges Bettembourg, Ariane Giobellina.

 

 

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THIS EXPEDITION was the second attempt to climb an Himalayan seven-thousander in winter season. This was to commemorate 50 years of The Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido (AACH). After the first attempt on Trisul in 1974-75 (winter) was unsuccessful, efforts to organize the second attempt in a more scientific way had continued among us.

From the weather record in winter at Hajun (near Everest), Nepal obtained by AACH members and high-altitude data obtained by radiosondes flown at Kathmandu, the ambient temperature at 7000 m altitude on Baruntse in winter was anticipated to be as low as —50°C when the effect of a strong jet-stream is considered. To overcome such severe weather conditions, many climbing equipments and protective garments were newly developed in addition to improvements of existing gears. Many tests were conducted with those by AACH members, including the graduate students and the faculty staff, in the cold room laboratory at the Institute of Low Temperature Science, Hokkaido University and also at another commercial refrigeration facility, where the temperature can be lowered to —50°C. Equipments and garments ultimately adopted for the expedition from those tested were insulated boots, sleeping-bags made of synthetic fabrics and not of conventional down, face-masks, chemical warm sheets, thermos bottles with battery, 150-watt wind-power generator system with battery charger and so on. They worked quite satisfactorily in practice.

On 3 November 1980, climbing leader H. Nakamura and his nine associates, liaison officer, Lt Uttam Shin Kharki of Nepal Army and six Sherpas left Tumlingtar for 2 weeks' approach with some five tons of load carried by 170 local porters. They passed Shipton pass (4200 m) without any fear of avalanche, and established the base camp on 17th at 5000 m along Barun Khola. By the end of November, over two tons of loads were successfully deposited at 5130 m with the help of porters and Sherpas. On 1 December, the first day of the winter season, Camp 1 was established. This was followed by the establishment of Camp 2 on the 3rd, and of Camp 3 on the 5th. A final Assault Camp was advanced at 6700 m on the 13th.

On the morning of 15 December, 7 members including 2 Sherpas left for the summit from the Assault Camp. After 2 members returned from half-way, Ikegami, Hamana, and Ang Pemba reached the summit of Baruntse (7220 m) at 13.30 hrs in very fine weather. The second attempt was tried by seven members on the 23rd; however, they were forced to abandon the climb at 7000 m due to bad weather.

Members: Kazuo Hayashi (leader), Haruhiko Nakamura (climbing leader), Yukio Sato (doctor), Toshiji Sumiya (doctor), Jun Hamana, Koichi Ikegami, Osamu Hanai, Akinari Ishimura, Nobuhiko Azuma, Toyohiko Nakamura, Nobuhiko Suzaki, Ichiro Matsumoto.

 

 

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IN 1955, a West German expedition to Annapurna IV went in another direction and reached the summit of Kang Guru for the first time. After that, climbing was prohibited. The prohibition was removed in 1978. And in October of the same year, a party from West Germany challenged it. But being troubled by deep snow, they abandoned the climb at the altitude of 6790 m. Hirosaki party of Japan attempted it in pre-monsoon from the southeast ridge in 1980, but they retreated. Our party from the Life and Mount Alpine Club attempted it in pre- monsoon in 1981.

We left Kathmandu on 8 March. The load was carried by 80 porters. We arrived at Okoure Khaluka 14 days after Kathmandu without any trouble such as a porter strike. Kang Guru has three ridges. We climbed the southwest ridge. All routes above the col of 5200 m are snow ridges. And they were lean and hollow on both sides. The tents were pitched at five places including a temporary camp. It was fine all day long on 27 April and 28 April. Three members and two Sherpas of the first party, and two members and one Sherpa of the second party could gain the summit. This was the second ascent. Climbing time was 35 days. We were favoured by fine weather except only one day when we couldn't climb. Sherpas were co-operative. Members opened the routes and Sherpas carried the loads as allotted. We could be a good party because of the strong combination of both. The party consisted of three persons who were over 37 years and three persons who were under 28. So we were concerned that the seniors' lack of stamina and the juniors' shortage of experience might be a weak point of the party. But in fact, a junior became sick, so seniors had to make the routes.

Technical Note

B.C. (4200 m) — Camp 1 (5200 m)

B.C. was settled in Okoure Khaluka. About 1500 yaks were being grazed in Khaluka. When it was fine, we could see all of southwest ridge and southeast ridge. Route from B.C. to Camp 1 was on south slope of southwest ridge. The gradient to the point of 4800 m was about 45 degrees. Because of a peculiar landform the route was easy to lose in rough weather.

Camp 1 was established at the lowest col of the southwest ridge.

Camp 1- Camp 2 (6000 m)

The route from Camp 1 followed the southwest ridge nearly faithfully. We climbed on a wide ridge to Gate Rock (5400 m). Ropes were fixed from here. We used 2500 m fixed ropes till right under the summit. Going over several snow humps, temporary Camp 2 was set at 5700 m. Width of the ridge from Camp 2 became much narrower. If we took a false step, we could not escape falling down. Camp 2 was pitched at the shoulder of the blue pinnacle. This camp site commanded a fine view. Mountains of Annapurna and Manaslu were aglow with the setting sun and looked wonderful.

Camp 2 —Camp 3 (6500 m)

The route to above Camp 2 having been made across the south slope of the blue pinnacle, reached the ool. Here rock and snow were mixed and was difficult to climb. In addition to that, when it was snowing, there was a risk of avalanche. We named the ridgeline from the ool to the balcony 'ridge of glory'. The approach to the ridge was on a snow-wall, mixed with ice, of a gradient of 60 degrees.

Camp 3 was pitched below the ice-wall at 6300 m. Right below the balcony was a huge crevasse 20 m wide and 120 m long. So the route had to go along 120 m on the brink of the crevasse. Climbing straight from the spot, there was tableland on the balcony. Camp 3 was made here.

Camp 3 —Top

We climbed the steep snow gradient from Camp 3 to the top aiming at the summit ridge avoiding the crevasse. We reached the summit ridge 300 m this side of the summit. We climbed carefully on snow crust. The summit was about 6 sq m snow tableland. Our attempt was twice favoured by fine weather. We could look over the panorama of the mountains of 360 degrees.

 

 

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IN THE year 1980, Jikei University School of Medicine celebrated its 100th year anniversary. In commemoration of this centennial anniversary, we decided to send an expedition to the Himalaya in Nepal.

Originally, we had in mind Ganesh Himal II (7150 m), and obtained the necessary government permission. However, since the Okayama University expedition party conquered this peak dining the post- monsoon season in 1979, we changed our target to Ganesh Himal V (6950 m).

Since the climbing of the as yet unconquered peaks of the Ganesh Himal range is not allowed to parties consisting only of non-Nepalese, we formed a joint Japan-Nepal expedition party and added two Nepalese to our party.

We successfully conquered the previously unsealed Ganesh Himal V. On 21 April, our first team, consisting of two Japanese, one Nepalese and two Sherpas, reached the peak, and on 22 April, our second team, consisting of four Japanese, one Nepalese and three Sherpas, stood atop the peak.

Our party left Kathmandu on 7 March, started caravan from Trisuli Bazar on 8 March with 144 porters, and after passing through Dhunche and Syabru Bensi, commenced climbing along Chilime Khola. On 20 March, we reached Mesanje Kharka, 3800 m high, where we set up a base camp. A few days prior to this, on 15 March, we had crossed the snow line at which point two-thirds of our porters returned to Kathmandu. So it wasn't until 22 March that we were able to get all the supplies to the base camp.

As a climbing route, we had in mind the north ridge. Along the upper part of the ridge, there was a wide glacier which dropped off almost vertically from the top of the ridge. Therefore, we had to soek a route on the glacier itself somehow. Dominating our path along the lower part of the ridge, on the other hand, there was a gigantic rocky outcropping which we named 'Sting Fish'. After studying three alternative routes to get to the base of Sting Fish and after much reconnaissance, we finally decided to take the path up the north ridge starting from the base.

26 March. Set up Camp 1 (4330 m).

31 March. Set up Camp 2 (4930 m). Camp 2 was at the base of Sting Fish. Originally, we had planned to set up Camp 3 atop a col on S'ting Fish. It necessitated, however, our traversing the glacier to the left of Sting Fish, where there were crevasses, and then climbing a steep couloir where there were dangers of avalanches and blocks of ice falling from the overhanging glacier above. So we tried to look for a route to the right of Sting Fish, but being unable to find one, we finally decided to climb the dangerous couloir. This we somehow managed to do and succeeded in reaching a col on Sting Fish on 6 April.

However, the col was very narrow. Besides, as it was set apart from the glacier by a gigantic crevasse, it was impossible to climb the glacier directly from this point. We therefore traversed to the left from the middle of the couloir and by going around the base of a gigantic ice formation on its left side, we succeeded in getting to the edge of the glacier.

On 14 April, we set up Camp 3 at the edge of the glacier (5800 m). At this camp, four of our members started showing signs of high- altitude sickness one after the other, and they had to be sent down to Camp 2 temporarily. Fortunately, it did not affect their physical condition too much, so we were able to resume our activities.

Sketch map of Ganesh Himal V (6950 m)

On 20 April, we set up Camp 4 within an ice-wall (6400 m) and five of us, Sasaki, Komori, Lhakpa and two Sherpas, remained there, preparatory to the final assault on the peak.

The next day, 21 April, the weather was beautiful. The five members who had stayed at Camp 4 the night before left the camp at 6.50 a.m. and after reaching a rock ridge which led to the peak at 10.00 a.m., finally reached the top of Ganesh Himal V at 11.52 a.m.

The following morning, 22 April, the weather was again clear. A second team of eight, including Okabe, Hamaguchi, Shinohara, Saito. Zimba and three Sherpas, commenced the assault from Camp 4 and reached the summit at 8.45 a.m.

On 23 April, we folded up all the forward camps and returned to the base camp. On 26 April, we folded up the base camp and started the caravan back to Kathmandu. Though five of the party took a different route, passing through Gosainkund, we all arrived safely on 5 May.

Members: Yoshio Nagao (leader), Norimasa Okabe, Kinichi Hamaguchi, Takeshi Shinohara, Tatsuumi Sasaki, Saburo Saito, Akihiko Komori, Lhakpa Dorjee, Zimba Zangbu.

 

 

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YUGOSLAV ALPINISTS selected the south face of Dhaulagiri (8167 m) as a goal some years ago. A request for permission for spring 1982 was submitted as they returned from Everest in 1979. However, in the spring of 1981 approval was received for the post- monsoon period. Although the expedition to the south face of Lhotse had scarcely been concluded, and another was not planned, it was essential to accept the offer. The expedition leader immediately left on a reconnaissance mission and envisaged two possibilities: to the left and right of the funnel-shaped central section of the face. After speeded-up preparations, six alpinists left on 3 September for Nepal. Accompanied by a liaison officer, five Nepalese staff and fifty-six porters, they left Pokhara on 12 September.

The final section of the approach march was over virgin ground. On 23 September they reached the location of base camp (3950 m), where the low-altitude porters left them. Nevertheless by 26 September the base camp had been set up. Following a period of bad weather, the only acclimatization climb possible was made to Manapanti (6380 m) during 1-3 October. From 7-13 October the lower part of the face was explored, the climbers reaching an altitude of 5300 m, fixing 400 m of rope and pitching a tent at 5150 m.

15 October: Stane Belak, Cene Bercic, and Emil Tratnik started upon the face and left their tent (5150 m) at 02.35 a.m. the following day. At 9 a.m. they were halted for seven hours by falling stones at an altitude of 5500 m. They then climbed until nightfall, reaching 5700 m.

17 October: At midnight they continued the ascent over an icefield (50°) and by morning had reached the third rock-step (5900 m). Continuing to climb they dug out their third bivouac at an altitude of 6100 m.

18 October: The following section presented difficulties in orientation (50°-65°) and at 6400 m the fourth bivouac was made. The same day the second rope (Rok Kolar and Joze Zupan) started on the face and reached the tent at 5100 m but then descended so as to go with the sixth climber (Janez Sabolek) to meet their companions.

19 October: Belaying was problematic, inclination 50°. They bivouacked at 6900 m. (In fact they had at their disposal on average only 5-6 hours for climbing; the remainder of the time was needed to prepare the bivouac.)

20 October: At 2 p.m. they reached the rock band (7300 m) on the SW ridge, where they came upon the ropes used by the Japanese expedition in 1978. The face was climbed.

21 October: After a bad night they climbed the exposed rock section of the ridge. They were able to gain only 100 m in height.

22 October: Only 150 m height was gained. There followed a cold and windy night at an altitude of 7550 m.

23 October: In the afternoon they reached the right-hand edge of the huge snow-slopes below the summit (7800 m). The chances of preparing food were minimal while the wind and cold intensified.

24 October: From this point there were no further climbing difficulties. The leader informed base camp of their plan for the descent. But shortly after 8 a.m. the gas-stove ceased to function. The wind also increased in force and buried the tent. All these conditions called for an immediate retreat. All that was no longer important, the gas-stove, tent, and dehydrated food was rejected and at noon they reached the highest point of the SE ridge (altimeter 7950 m) and then descended over the northern slope to 7200 m. Here they fortunately found the remains of a tent (probably Japanese). However the gas-stove they dug out burst into flames and was destroyed. Radio contact with base camp failed to function.

25 October: They descended by the north rib. Bad weather was rapidly approaching from the west. The climbers bivouacked in the open, without either protection or food. 20 cm of snow fell during the night.

26 October: The weather deteriorated still further. Nevertheless they fought their way down to 6000 m and bivouacked in a crevasse,

27 October: 60 cm of new snow fell. They ploughed through to the ridge and in deep snow reached the altitude of 6090 m above the Dhaulagiri glacier and the valley of the Tak Khola. They then descended for another seven hours and organized a bivouac on the glacier (4800 m). Contact with their companions was still not possible.

28 October: At daybreak they started the difficult traverse of the extremely fragmented and dangerous glacier and after 12 hours gained the moraine. Bivouac on snow-covered pastures (4200 m).

29 October: For the first time in 16 days they met other people and after 6 days of hunger had access to food. By evening they had dropped down to the village of Kalapani.

30 October: In the village of Beni they met their remaining companions, who had searched for them in vain. On account of his frostbitten feet Cene Bercic continued the journey on horseback. There still remained the march to the Baleba airfield, after which they were home again on 16 November.

'Yugoslav Dhaulagiri I South Face Expedition 1981' completed the ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri, which no other expedition had ever succeeded in doing.

 

 

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CZECHOSLOVAK MOUNTAINEERING Expedition, Nanda Devi 1981, follows the successful activity of the previous expedition from the town of Ostrava, Czechoslovakia, which scaled the northern summit of Nanda Devi three years ago.1 In fact, this virgin 7000 m high summit was scaled at that time (instead of originally considered altitude of 6895 m the latest map mentioned its altitude as 7055 m).

The expedition of 1981 selected as the main target quite an untouched northern face of the highest mountain in Garhwal Himalaya, the 7817 m high Nanda Devi. The mountain of splendid beauty and fine contours with its northern face nearly 3100 m, belong to the highest ones, not only in the Himalaya, but in the world too.

After bad experiences of the members of Ostrava expedition in May 1978, when the shortage of time and unexpectedly early arrival of monsoon prevented them from finishing the planned climb of the northern ridge of Nanda Devi, it was decided to begin the climb early in full monsoon.

After a difficult approach march, we transported in all 2500 kg of the load to the base camp on 30 July 1981 with 120 porters. The base camp was pitched on the right bank of the Uttari Nanda Devi glacier directly in front of northeast buttress of the north face. After brief familiarization it was decided to start the climb from the edge of the buttress which presents an ideal direttissima. It caused in fact many technical difficulties but on the other hand, the danger of avalanches was minimized. As it proved later on for the period of monsoon this strategy was quite correct.

See H.J. 36, p. 189.—Ed.

The expedition comprised in all of 11 climbers; one physician, an Indian liaison officer, and one high-altitude porter who was carrying a load up to Camp 2. Three climbing groups were formed. They regularly interchanged their activities on the buttress. By that, in spite of very unfavourable weather conditions, the progress could be ensured. They built high-altitude camps, of which the last one, Camp 4 was pitched at an altitude of 7200 m on 6 September. Between the camps, 4 km of ropes had been put enabling transportation of gear and food to the high-pitched camps. The climb had been complicated by the climate on the northern face where practically every day's heavy snowing was causing a daily increase of the layer of fresh snow from 15 cm up to 1 m. The rock passages created technical difficulties. Also the ice on the ridge was very bad and quite incompact.

Bad weather with continuous afternoon snowing, brought about a catastrophe in Camp 4 which was buried by a fresh snow avalanche. The tent disappeared totally under three metre high layer of fresh snow and was never found. Fortunately this accident happened at a time when the camp was vacant.

Taking into consideration these very unfavourable conditions, it was decided to make the final attack on the summit in Alpine-style, without previous preparations and ensuring the climb by stable camps.

The suitable moment arrived on 14 September. Only two days earlier the weather had stabilized and the fresh snow settled. Three climbers, Leos Horka, Ludvik Palecek and Kamil Karafa, set out from Camp 3 on this day. Near the former place of Camp 4, they pitched one small tent in which they spent a night without sleeping-bags. The following day, this group entered the summit wall where they finished putting of fixed ropes on a large rocky ridge. On the snow ramp at an altitude of 7500 m they had to spend the night in a snow-hole once more without sleeping-bags. The next day, on 18 September this group was joined by the supporting group of two men, Otakar Srovnal and Bohumil Kaplcik. The two groups got together and after a hard day of tremendous efforts they reached the summit in the evening just before the sunset. In the meanwhile the weather deteriorated. The sky was overcast and it started snowing again. They had to descend about 100 m down the southwest wall where they had to once again dig a snow-hole. In the snow-hole they spent a terrible night, unfortunately again without sleeping-bags. On 17 September all the five climbers reached the former Camp 4 and within the following three days they descended to the base camp.

Two men, Josef Rakoncaj and Leopold Sulovsky, as a reserve party, set out for the summit three days after both these first groups. These two climbers moved from base camp up to the tent of former Camp 4 in a surprisingly short time of three days. In spite of unsuitable weather, they overcame the difficult summit wall and reached the summit on 19 September at 2.30 p.m. The same day they descended to the tent.

 

 

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THE JOGIN Group of peaks, Jogin I, II and III, lie at the head of Kedar Bamak in the Garhwal Himalaya. Jadavpur University Mountaineering and Hiking Club were planning again to go for an expedition. Peaks of Jogin group readily came into their mind as these peaks offer some technical difficulties with less logistical problems.

An eight-member team was selected including myself and Dr Ujal Mani, the medical officer of the expedition under the leadership of Amit Chowdhury. The other members of the team were Somesh Chowdhury (deputy leader), Sunandan Ghosh, Gautam Dutta, Pankaj Laha and Ujjwal Ganguly. The expedition also hired the services of two Sherpas — Lakpa Tshering and Makalu from Darjeeling.

After the most tiresome period of preparatory stages the team left Calcutta on 22 August and reached the road-head at Gangotri on 29 August. Gangotri, one of the holiest places in the Himalaya, is the confluence of the Bhagirathi river coming from Caumukh and Kedar Ganga which is originated from the Kedar Bamak in the south.

It is through this gorge of this Kedar Bamak that we started our approach march next day and established the first approach camp at Akhri Bhuj at an altitude of about 12,000 ft. From Gangotri it is a continuous climb through the deep forest mainly consisting of birch and pine trees. It took us about three and a half hours to reach Akhri Bhuj which means end of birch trees. Gangotri is the last inhabited place enroute and at Akhri Bhuj we met with some shepherds who came there with their goats and sheep, from Rudugaira side after crossing high mountain ridges and passes.

On 31st we reached the second approach camp — Kedar Kharak, a grassy alp on the right of the Kedar Bamak. This place was about 1000 ft higher than Akhri Bhuj and on the way we had the first glimpse of Jogin II, our main objective and mighty Bhrigupanth and Thalay S'agar. The view of Bhrigupanth and Thalay Sagar dominated all through from then on. From Kedar Kharak we also saw Manda and some other peaks, which we could not identify, on our left. The following day myself and Amit along with Lakpa reconnoitred site for base camp and on 2 September we occupied the same which was located just beyond Kedar tal — a huge and beautiful lake at an altitude of about 12,500 ft where the eastern ridge of Jogin II meets the Kedar Bamak.

We set out to find a place for Camp 1 right on the next day. The route for Camp 1 followed the medial moraine on the Kedar Bamak to the east of our base camp which went around the ridge coming down to the valley from Jogin II (eastern ridge). The height of Camp 1 which was established at the head of Kedar Bamak below an icefall on the northwest on 4 September was at 17,000 ft. While on our way to Camp 1 we could see all the Jogin peaks just after crossing the eastern ridge of Jogin II. The Camp 1 site was like a big amphitheatre encircled by Bhrigupanth, Thalay Sagar and Jogin group of peaks.

Up to Camp 1 the route was the same for all the Jogin peaks. But from here onwards it separated. We decided to attempt Jogin II first as our main objective was to climb this peak. Moreover it would be requiring one extra camp than Jogin I and III. Accordingly on the morning of 5 September, Amit, Gautam, both the Sherpas and myself went out to recce the place for Camp 2 for Jogin II. We followed the route through the glacier on the right of the treacherous icefall. From Camp 1 it was about 300 ft of, steep ascent and then the gradient became less. We climbed for about 1500 ft and negotiated a few crevasses in between. We found a huge icefield above this icefall and decided to put our Camp 2 there.

We were enjoying a good weather so far but from the evening of that day it turned bad and started snowing from the night. The snowfall ultimately turned into a blizzard which continued and lashed us at Camp 1 for the whole day. The wind ceased in the evening though the snowfall continued throughout the night. This unforeseen situation forced us to change our plan of attempting Jogin II first, because there would be quite a heavy accumulation of soft snow on the south face of Jogin II through which our route lay. There would be chances of avalanches on the face for a couple of days. So we changed our plan and decided to go for Jogin I and III first which would keep us occupied for about a week during which the soft snow on the face would settle down.

It dawned clear and bright on 7th, and we reconnoitred and secured the way up to a common! Camp 2 for Jogin I and III that day itself.

On 8th Ujjwal, Sunandan, Gautam and I, along with both the Sherpas, occupied Camp 2 for Jogin I and III. The route for this Camp 2 was through the icefall on the west of Camp 1 and through the rock gully beyond. The total rock band was about 1000 ft and we had to fix rope for about 500 ft. The climb through this rock band was comparatively easy technically though dangerous because of loose rocks on the band. Near the end of the rock gully a snow slope leads to a small landing and that was the place for Camp 2. We could see the Kirti Bamak, Jogin H and of course, Thalay Sagar and Bhrigupanth. Beyond the camp is the steady snow slope leading to the col between Jogin I and III.

We woke up early on 9 September but it was 7.30 a.m. when we — Gautam, Sunandan, Lakpa, Makalu and myself — started for the summit of Jogin I. It took us three hours to reach the col, plodding through the knee-deep snow on the vast slope. From the col we negotiated the eastern ridge of Jogin I which was quite steep, about 60° at some places. We had hardly climbed a few hundred feet from the col when it became a white-out, and at about 200 ft short of the summit we had to wait for some time as we could not see beyond even a few feet from us. Luckily it cleared up soon and when we reached the top we could see the nearby peaks though it remained cloudy. We stepped on the summit at 1200 hours and stayed there for about half an hour. We saw the Khatling area which lies on the other side of Jogin I. We returned to Camp 2 at 3 p.m.

On the 10th Ujjwal and Pankaj and Makalu climbed Jogin III after trudging through the several snow humps for about four hours. The same day we all came down to Camp 1, and spent the next day reorganizing and planning the assault on Jogin II.

On 12 September we straightway set out for Camp 2 for Jogin II as the route was reconnoitred already. It took us about three hours to reach Camp 2 site, height of which was about 18,500 ft. It was in a valley with the other end closed. There was the rock wall of about 1000 ft high leading to the eastern ridge of Jogin II on the north.

We placed our Camp 3 above an icefall which meets the very steep south face of Jogin II which ultimately leads to its summit. Our route to Camp 3 was through the icefall, and was secured by fixing rope for 100 ft on 13 September and we occupied the same next day, at 19,800 ft.

We could hardly sleep that night because of excitement and woke up at 0430 hours to find a clear and beautiful morning. It took us two hours more before we had gulped a mugful of porridge and a cup of tea and put on our boots and crampons. Six of us, Gautam, Ujjwal, Amit, Lakpa, Makalu and myself started climbing unroped as just after a little distance beyond the camp we had to negotiate a nasty rock band consisting of rotten rocks and loose stones, to gain the main face. Ujjwal was hit by a loose stone at this portion but he continued. We fixed about 600 ft of rope on this rock band and on a few others which we met on the south face. The slope of the face was very steep, with a gradient of about 75° to 80°. We had to be very careful asi a slip or fall meant that we would tumble straight down beyond Camp 3 in a few seconds. The situation was further aggravated as we had to dodge falling stones which were whizzing past us, especially when one was negotiating the loose rock band. The weather remained exceptionally beautiful; no wind, neither a speck of cloud anywhere. At 1130 hours of 15 September, we reached the summit of Jogin II. We were really thrilled and tears of joy rolled down our cheeks at being able to achieve our main objective.

Note: The first ascent of Jogin II was recorded by an Indian team led by Amulya Sen on 11 October 1971. The author of the present article claimed this as a 'first ascent'. He writes: 'To my knowledge not a single photograph or any report has ever been published after the 'claimed' ascent of this peak. Even after repeated requests to the leader Amulya Sen and the organizers nothing was available. When Sen was asked to describe the route before our expedition he said he had forgotten about that. Just a simple claim by mentioning in a report that the peak has been climbed certainly does not suffice the claim, specially if it is the first ascent. Moreover any claim of ascent, specially if it is the first ascent, must be substantiated by photographs which Sen failed to produce so far. There should be some definite yardstick and system to accept the claim of first ascent of any peak or route.'—Ed.

 

 

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THE MOST beautiful sunset, which is still clearly etched in my memory, I witnessed from the lush green lawns of Triund dak bungalow on 24 September 1977. In front of us we could see the enticing play of ever-changing colours splashed on the canvas of the surrounding deep blue sky, with the orange ball slowly dipping below the distant horizon 7500 ft below us on the plains of Punjab. Triund is a lovely place about 4000 ft above upper Dharmsala and overlooks the flat fertile lands of Himachal Pradesh and Punjab, which stretch into infinity.

When we came across articles3 in the Himalayan Journal by Lt. P.R. Oliver and J. O. M. Roberts about their climbing experiences on Dhauladhar from Dharmsala we worked out that from Bombay one could reach the Indrahar pass (14,500 ft) on Dhauladhar on the fourth day. For obvious reasons this appeared to be the ideal place for a short climbing programme.

 

We undertook this trip in September 1977 and reached Indrahar pass. However, our climbing period was washed out due to continuous heavy rains for the next 36 hours forcing us to retreat to Triund. Triund is situated on the big green subsidiary ridge of Dhauladhar range. The ridge gradually climbs up from lower Dharmsala and abuts 5000 ft of granite wall of Dhauladhar at Laka (10,000 ft), a camping ground of gaddis strewn with stone huts. Dhauladhar rises majestically from the plains of Himachal Pradesh and Punjab to an average height of about 12,000 ft. differing noticeably from other Himalayan ranges due to near absence of any low-altitude Siwalik ranges or foothills on its southern side. A great massif of 5000 ft forming the Dhauladhar towers over Dharmsala and overlooks Kangra valley. This wall can be crossed from Kangra valley to enter the Chamba valley at three depressions or passes. Gag pass on the extreme west, Toral pass on the extreme east and Indrahar or Mon pass in the centre. One can reach Toral pass from Dadh and Indrahar pass from Macleodgunj by following gaddi tracks, which climb down to Kuarsi, in the Chamba valley.

The steep rocky face of Dhauladhar offers many challenging routes from Laka for a climbing party. However, these peaks could be easily reached by crossing one of the passes and attempting them from the north by climbing the gradual slopes on the Chamba side and later traversing the main ridge to the respective summits. Mon, situated on the right of Indrahar pass with a great triangular face, makes the maximum impression as we look up from Laka. Other peaks on this side of Indrahar pass are Cairn, Christmas, and Toral whereas Slab, Rifleborn Gendarme, Two Gun, Camel and Dromedary could be encountered on the main ridge to the left of the pass and in that order. A ridge from Toral pass leads to a beautiful peak, Dhauladhar Matterhorn, which when viewed from southeast angle, resembles the great Matterhorn and hence derives its own name.1 Panoramic views of Kangra valley 12,000 ft below on one side and the great peaks of the main Himalayan range rising upto 23,000 ft beyond the Ravi on the other side could be had from the summits of these mountains. There are no great or well known peaks on Dhauladhar but the ascent of these peaks will certainly be a most satisfying and rewarding experience especially for any small party with a low budget and limited leave at its disposal.

We decided to revisit Indrahar pass in the third week of October 1981 with fond hopes of good weather and favourable snow conditions. So it was that in the early hours of 12 October I with my cousin Abhijit Samant detrained at Pathankot. We reached Macleodgunj (6500 ft) in the evening the same day by bus and later lodged in the comfortable rooms of the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.

1. All these peaks were named by British army officers who regularly climbed in the range.—Ed.

The morning of 14 October saw us swinging our rucksacks to climb to Triund. At the dak bungalow we were greeted by a large and ferocious shepherd dog, whose barking made us freeze in our tracks. The timely intervention of his owner saved the situation.

The next day we started at 9.00 a.m. for Laka and made it to a natural cave, locally known as Las, formed below a huge boulder at an altitude of 11,800 ft in 1J hours, which is approximately one third of the way up to Indrahar pass.

Hoping to make an early start next day, we got up at around 5.00 a.m. to discover that visibility was poor and the face above was under the cover of clouds. There had been a snowfall during the night and we decided to delay our departure. Though visibility had improved by 9.00 a.m. there was an intermittent hailstorm accompanied by chilly winds. However, we could no longer wait for any improvement in weather. We pulled on our windcheaters and pushed ofL Later I let out an audible sigh of relief when suddenly the curtain of clouds parted to give us a glimpse of the pass in a close-up right in front. It was 1.15 p.m. and we hastened our descent on the other side of the pass to locate a suitable camping site. We descended about 1200 ft to a flat place to the left of the pass, locally known as Dali, and pitched our tent by the side of a huge boulder, We paid three porters Rs. 100 each, sent them back to Macleodgunj and retained the fourth one, Kishanchand, to help us in small camp chores.

17 October dawned very bright and clear with the promise of a good day ahead. Fortunately most of the mornings during our stay in Dali were equally encouraging. The previous night we had turned in early and had slept like logs. We reluctantly gave up our sleeping-bags only when it became too warm inside the tent. As we looked around we easily identified Arthur's Seat with Coolins next to it on the extreme right; Camel, Two Gun, Kiflehorn Gendarme, Slab on the main Dhaula- dhar ridge in front of us. There appeared to be a wide shelf half way up to the top of the main ridge. This shelf also continued beyond Indrahar pass except for a wide gap near it.

The ridge above the shelf was formed by smooth sloping granite slabs bare of any snow. After a heavy breakfast we set off at 9.30 a.m. to reconnoitre the area and routes up to Mon and Cairn, which we were yet to identify correctly. We crossed a wide gully filled with snow and boulders, climbed up the snow slopes strewn with loose boulders on to the edge of the snow shelf. At this late hour of the morning powdery fresh snow was knee-deep at places and climbing up a few unavoidable snow-filled gullies was a tiresome experience. The main ridge was broken at places and rose to the summit of a rocky pyramid about 600 ft to 700 ft above the shelf just ahead of us. The snow-clad ridge continued further to the extreme left, leading to a snow dome, which was obviously Christmas peak. We knew that Mon, which was higher by about 400 ft than Cairn, was next to it on the main ridge but we were unable to sight another separate pyramid as per our expectations, Tt was 1.30 p.m. by then, the clouds were gathering over the ridge and our tired bodies refused to follow the dictates of our minds. Our toes pointed themselves straight towards the comfort of our tent leaving the ticklish problem of identification still unsolved.

We began our plod at 7.30 a.m. on the 19th across a snowfield towards a line of weakness on the lower granite slabs leading to the shelf below Two Gun. Without much difficulty we scrambled up on to the shelf, went over a minor ridge coming from Camel and stumbled across a hunter's track well demarcated by small cairns. We left this track at a point about 200 ft below the col between Camel and Dromedary, climbed the north snow slope of Camel to its summit at 11.30 a.m. Clouds, which had come up, were partly obscuring the northwest ridge of Two Gun and the summit. I preferred to continue the traverse along the rocky ridge, whereas Abhijit decided to go down. The traverse, never very difficult but interesting all the time, placed me on the top of Two Gun in time to shout and wave to Abhijit already down on the lower shelf. I descended directly to the shelf along a fault on granite slabs, which was tricky at some places.

We left our camp at 7.00 a.m. on 21 October, quickly climbed on to the shelf, crossed a snowfield and kicked our way to the crest of the main ridge, which we planned to follow to northwest to the summit of Slab. We roped and made it to Slab at 9.30 a.m. . . I soloed up the southeast ridge of Riflehorn Gendarme for some distance, went down about 100 ft on the south side of the ridge and again climbed up the south face to the top, taking about 45 minutes. I left the summit at 10.30 a.m. to rejoin Abhijit on Slab. We again roped and traversing back on the main ridge reached Indrahar spending a few moments at the pass, we ran down to our camp along a regular track at 12.45 p.m.

Planning to sort out the identification tangle between Mon and Cairn and later to attempt the respective summits, we got up early on 28 October and set off at 6.30 a.m. Instead of taking the earlier direct route to the snow shelf, we went farther west at a lower level and climbed up towards a ridge, which appeared on the map as coming down from Mon in a northerly direction. As we gained height another peak, obviously Mon, appeared from behind the pyramid spotted earlier, which we now identified as Cairn. Mon, which was farther from us than Cairn to which it was connected by a broken ridge, looked foreshortened. We decided to climb the northwest face of Cairn get down to the snow shelf from the col between Cairn and Mon and then attempt Mon. We roped up on the rising snow slope to reach the base of Cairn at 9.45 a.m. hoping to climb the final 500 ft of the northwest face in less than an hour. The face was still in shadow but fresh powdery snow was very loose and slippery. Every step was suspect. A climb up a small snow filled gully brought up to a dead end, forcing us to climb down, traverse a narrow ledge to the bottom of the next gully — a time-consuming, tiring and frustrating experience. We took 2i hours to reach the top at 12.15 p.m., where we discovered a yellow flag. I hammered in a piton and tied a red marking flag to it with a long cord. After a breather of about 15 minutes on the top, we climbed down along the ridge to the col between Cairn and Mon and later descended to the snow shelf by a much easier route. The camp was reached at 3.00 p.m.

The next day morning two porters came up as agreed earlier, from Kuarsi to Las, another natural shelter below a boulder, about 1000 ft below our camp. We wound up the camp and descended to Las. We descended to Kuarsi leisurely, stopping now and then to take last looks at Dhauladhar, enjoying the beautiful surroundings, aware of the fact that the lovely trip was coming to an end. On 27 October we climbed on to the top of the ridge opposite Kuarsi and descended to Chunauta and ahead to Machattar. A jeep took 1J hours from Machattar to reach Khadamukh for a bus to Chamba. Two days later as we sped homeward by a train from Pathankot, the scenic memories of exquisite beauty of Triund and Kuarsi, grandeur of Mon, panoramic sunsets floated in our minds.

 

 

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MORNING OF 21 December 1981. Muslim Contractor and myself left Bombay for Chamba in the Himachal Pradesh. In the light of what was to follow it may be noted that we were starting at sea-level and perhaps from the warmest climate in India at this time of the year, 30 °C. After changing to buses at Pathankot and a night at Chamba (122 km), we were at Jyura (52 km). A most terrible jeep ride deposited us at Holi (16 km). For this ride two of us were hanging on the rear foot-board on one leg, protecting each other with the other leg. I was staring down the river Ravi while Muslim up towards the cliffs. Under such circumstances all the mountaineering training was most useful. It almost ruined our trip. My sleeping-bag was torn by touching one of the overhanging cliffs. Luckily it was filled with Polar guard. Otherwise Ravi would have been polluted with feathers along with the many wooden logs it carried, and I would have been on my way back. This was on 23 December. In three days we were at 6000 ft and 0°C. Our winter climbing trip began.

Reading about the various winter ascents of high peaks recently, we wanted to try it out ourselves. We planned to move with our carefully selected gear and food of about 60 kg on our own.

Christmas eve 1081 saw us starting with some of the most beautiful forest along the Ravi. The forests literally began where the road ended. To walk on the pine-needles was fun. The autumn colours were magnificent. For the night we settled at a forest rest-house at Nayagram at 6500 ft.

We wanted to enter the Bara Bangal valley to our north. But the local advice was against doing so. A 500 ft wide rocky section is to be crossed. This when filled with water-ice becomes impossible to negotiate. It was easy to imagine this as we had to cross, even on the first day, a few patches of water-ice. We were cutting steps and were about to put on, crampons at this height. So we decided to turn south, towards Dhaula Dhar.

One reluctant porter agreed to carry with us. Again the beautiful forest accompanied us for 4 km, till we climbed and descended 1500 ft each to leave the Ravi and enter Jalsu valley. We passed a little below Surehi and camped at Chhani (8 km). A completely frozen waterfall presented a unique sight.

26th dawned cloudy and chilly. A steady climb brought us to Yada, 8500 ft. Our porter refused to move further, pointing to the sky, and even advised us to return. All along the way, villagers and officials alike advised us against proceeding. Such was the scare of winter for them. In the circumstances we decided to stay at the forest hut at Yada and declared that as our base camp. We were totally alone in the valley soon. The temperature dropped to — 8°C.

On the 27th we decided on some climbing activity. We left at 8.30 a.m. and followed a ridge above us. Steadily we climbed up, at first through forest and then on snow. The snow was powdery and we sank up to our knees almost regularly and sometimes up to our waist. But this was totally 'dry* snow. For the next few days such snow conditions were constantly experienced. At last we emerged on the broad summit ridge and reached a cairn at c. 13,500 ft. We were on the top of Yada peak. We plodded back, falling regularly, to our B.C, at 5.30 p.m. In 9 hours we had climbed and descended 10,000 ft.

On 28th we followed the route to Jalsu pass to ferry luggage to our next camp at 10,000 ft. A very tiring affair on snow and long patches of water-ice in nullahs. We occupied this camp the next day. Wintery conditions were extreme and we recorded —17° C. This northern part of Dhaula Dhar does not receive direct sunlight for 2-3 months during this period of the year. Coupled with some bad weather and breeze it made things most unpleasant for us. But we noticed that as long as we kept ourselves hydrated with lots of hot soup and tea and filled with carbohydrates things remained manageable. It was never possible to drink cold water, even when available.

On 30th we could make our earliest start, at 8 a.m. With some efforts we reached the Jalsu pass at 11,000 ft in 3 hours. Now we were on the main crest of Dhaula Dhar. The route on the south dropped steeply to Baijnath and the Punjab plains. It had no snow. We followed a long ridge to the west. A long snow plod, some steep sections and we were on Jalsu peak, 14,100 ft. The view of Mani Mahesh range was excellent. For the return we followed a steep ridge to the north, rolling in snow, to reach the camp.

With weather threatening to break any time, we decided to withdraw. We spent the new year eve amidst forest at Chhani and sat talking round the fire. The dawn of 1982 was ushered in with clear skies and the two of us under lofty pine trees. In the next 4 days we were back to Chamba and Dharamsala. The weather broke immediately thereafter to give us a taste of what it could really mean. But we were well entrenched with excellent Tibetan food and the memories of our winter climbs under our belt.

Summary: A two-man expedition in 1981-82 winter to Dhaula Dhar: climbed Yada, c. 13,500 ft and Jalsu 14,100 ft.

Members: Harish Kapadia and Muslim Contractor. (Sponsored by 'The Mountaineers', Bombay)

 

 

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Introduction

THE BEGINNINGS of this expedition were full of problems. There was nothing very definite. The only clear idea we had was that we wanted to climb in the Karakoram, and nothing else. It was like looking for a very special present in a shop; we wanted a very appealing mountain top, completely unknown if possible. Finally, both old archives and ten-year-old magazines, gave us what we desired. This is the way we organized the expedition to Momhil Sar (7342 m).

The little experience we had in outings of this sort made us choose a readymade route. Yet fate led us to try the western pillar, a majestic wall, 3000 m in height, which overlooks the whole Garessa glacier.

Some questions immediately crop up. Why choose such a rough, unknown and difficult place, if this was our first expedition ? The answer is clear: We wanted to experience new methods, to test the Cordoba mountaineering mind which had been with us for so many years. We would reach the highest virgin peak ever attained by any Andalusian. We would follow, besides, an extremely difficult route. All this encouraged us and helped us. Barring any intention of self-flattery, we can say that the western pillar of Momhil Sar is the most difficult ever encountered by Spaniards in the Karakoram.

Karakoram

The Karakoram contains series of magnificent mountains and vast glaciers. Some of them like the Siachen (75 km), Biafo (68 km), Baltoro (62 km) are very long. Our interest was centred on these glaciers, especially that of Hispar with a length of 53 km. The first to explore this were the members of a group led by Sir William Martin Conway in 1892. Our objective is situated on a branch of Hispar glacier on the Garessa glacier. There are many mountain peaks. The important ones rise higher than 7000 m. Trivor (7720 m), Lupghur Sar (7199 m) and the Momhil Sar (7342 m). More than ten others surpass the 6000 m mark and around twenty rise higher than 5000 m. This glacier has not been much explored.

Approach March

In the early hours of a very hot morning, we started from Naga, a small village in the Hunza valley. With our 17 porters we forded the river which originates from the Hispar and Garessa glaciers. Our feeling was that we were in the Spanish Pyrenees. One look upwards was enough to dispel the momentary daydream. Receding from our minds were the bargains with the porters and the one year's work preparing this expedition.

The porters, rough and simple men, were used to the terrain. Right from the very start the'y set a pace which is too slow for our liking. Annoyed at the beginning, soon we did understand what was in their minds. They wanted to slow down the approach march. It is their mountain and we can do nothing about it. The law is theirs, we had to follow it. Walking day after day we soon reach the objectives. Upon reaching the glacier they accelerate. They seem to fear the crevasses.

It is a broken glacier, very difficult because of its structure. To find a way through the broken mass of rocks, ice and fissures becomes more and more difficult. By the end of the fourth day the porters decide that they have had enough. The Trivor glacier is out of the question for them. We try uselessly to reason with them and finally they leave us. There are still two days to go before reaching base camp. They abandoned us at the entrance of a glacier which leads to Lupghur Sar. We are at 4200 m. What is to be done ? An idea comes to mind. Perhaps the powers that be have decided. From that moment improvization becomes the ordinary routine.

Garessa Glacier

The Garessa glacier was completely unknown to us. The only visitors it ever had were the members of the German expedition to Lupghur Sar in 1979. We explore the surroundings for a couple of days and with the approval of the liaison officer, we try the western pillar of Momhil Sar.

Our first endeavour is to set base camp at the bottom of the glacier. We are kept busy for the next six days carrying loads from place to place. The skis helped a lot. You enjoy them after unloading 20 or 30 kg.

For a few days we had been awaiting the Japanese expedition to Lupghur Sar. Finally they came. When their porters were discharged we engaged them to carry our belongings. By the 7 June base camp was ready. The altitude is 4600 m. The Japanese camped close by. The glacier was full of crevasses and it had the appearance of a labyrinth. We found and marked the crevasses on each succeeding day.

We have a look at the wall through our field-glasses. Our choice is simple: the surest and most direct way to the top. We cannot rely on local maps because they are incomplete to a very large extent. This is no small matter because though the gigantic dimensions of the western pillar are recorded, there is no indication as to what it may keep in store for us. Nevertheless our spirits run high and we are sure that everything will come up to the best of our expectations.

Camp 1

After a cursory examination of the difficulties we may encounter, our feeling is that we should set camp as close to the wall as possible. We explore all possible routes through the glacier and establish an itinerary among that ice chaos. Our camp is finally placed at 4812 m it is situated on a platform one hour distant from the wall proper.

The structure, beautiful and dangerous, changes its shape as we advance. New crevasses make their appearance. The glacier which had seemed to be almost flat becomes a mass of complicated designs; all dangerous. We are very cautious since we have the feeling that at any given moment any one of us may disappear through those majestic fissures to the gorge below.

Upon returning to C 1, after a short visit to B.C. one of the Japanese tells us that their expedition has met with an accident. One of the members has had a bad fall into a crevasse. Soon we organize a joint rescue operation. We prepare a makeshift stretcher with our skis and transfer the injured member to B.C. He is operated by their and our doctor. For more than one week he was kept with us until the arrival of a helicopter which flew him back.

Our security measures are increased. More flags are placed on the route. Finally the moment comes when all that we may need is transferred to Camp 1. It is from here that we plan the future attack on the wall. By the time we shall be able to come down again, we shall have conquered the wall and will be ready to return home. Our expedition had this only option. The means at our disposal would not allow us to try again.

Camp 2

With our heavily loaded haversacks we attack the wall for the first time, the height of which is 2500 m. We make our way through a couloir with an inclination of 40 or 50 degrees. After 400 m inclination is noticeably steeper, and remains stable at 60 degrees. The ice that covers the rock is of dubious quality. Its thickness ranges from 20 to 30 centimetres. An overwhelming rock-fall frightens us. We walk as close to the wall as possible in the hope of averting disasters. Its left side is endowed with some sort of natural parapet.

Three times we climb this extremely long couloir, so that we may finish transferring our gear to Camp 2, and whatever may be needed to establish Camps 3 and 4. The strenuous task ended successfully while depositing our supplies in a cave underneath the ice-wall. This is a natural obstacle which makes us change the route. Only 100 m to go, which will become our acid test. The disintegrating ice is far from safe. Soon we reach a platform. It had been the object of our hope. Exhausted as we are we set Camp 3. The altitude is 5270 m. Next day is dedicated to transferring supplies. Our spirits run high. Soon complications come our way. One of our members suffers acute bronchial difficulties. Another one has second-degree frostbite. Problems in the offing.

We have not yet tackled the last pyramid. It is 200 m high. Succeed we must so that we may reach the front of the Mumhil S'ar face. We spent three days fixing ropes on the wall. The final climb will mainly be up this rock. This enhances the arduousness of our intent.

Cordoba Sar, 5404 m, western pillar

The clock shows 2 a.m. and it is bitterly cold. With hampered movements in the narrow space inside the tent, we dress. The efforts help us to warm up. The only chance of success is to leave our loads behind. It will be a very important day crowning it with the conquest of a virgin peak. It is only from there that we will ascertain with a certain degree of certainty the chances we have to remain on the western pillar in order to proceed towards the Momhil Sar.

With the help of the ropes the first 1500 m are as easy matter. We must still open a slope 50 m long if we want to leave this edge. These will be delicate steps. Right at the bottom we see Guillermo and Jose who intend to reach the top. Their merit is twofold: awareness of the dangers and desire to proceed in spite of them. Caution and mountain spirit have no limits.

Upon crossing the top edge we are greeted by the sun. Great joy takes over our spirits. Yet it is not over. Another edge is to be crossed and another platform is to be found for support. These two tasks accomplished, the 5404 m peak is ours.

Our eyes fill with tears, not only because of the recent triumph, but because of the ensuing disappointment. The Momhil Sar looks far away. A large gap and another edge separate it from us.

Our human resources are decimated. The last effort has taken away the remaining strength. When we least expect, our companions appear1 on our platform and we embrace each other, right on the top of the highest virgin peak ever conquered by any Andalusian.

The Cordoba Sar, our mountain-top will always be the pride of Andalusian mountaineering history.

Back to the Heat

We get hold of the fixed ropes and slowly take ourselves down. Successive rappels lead us to Camp 2. That night was in its most oppressive mood. Even the mountain seems to have gone through a process of total transformation. The ceaseless roar of avalanches fills us with misgivings. Even the platform on which we stand begins a slow but gradual motion towards the gorge underneath. A night which should have been beautiful, and weatherwise it was, saw us fully dressed and roped. No sooner dawn appears than we begin our journey towards Camp 1. The distance is a little over 20 km. It will however be a continuous calvary. The ice softens and we fear disaster.

The rocks fall around us. They increase in number and in speed. From this moment we may say that we have raffle tickets and the dhances of getting the prize depend on luck. The debris follow our path. We however attain the end of the journey uninjured.

One look at the camp tells us its dismaying tale. Our tents are practically ruined and the ordinary small fissures have turned into dangerous crevasses. With the help of some of the Japanese expedition members we gather whatever is left and leave for base camp. At night celebrate in style. We dine together and toast to the successes achieved by either party.

Our financial situation is in low ebb so we load ourselves with 50 kg haversacks, dispensing with any porters. For a while (three days) we are held up in the middle of a glacier because of foul weather. In spite of our economic constraints we engage four porters who happen to arrive and reach Nagar in two days.

That very afternoon we left for Gilgit. Soon we find ourselves relaxing in decent hotel rooms. The journey to Rawalpindi is through a winding and precariously tarred road constantly hit by avalanches. In one day we reach the Pakistani capital. The prevailing heat brings out the tiredness we had brought with us from the wonderful Karakoram mountains.

 

 

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ON THE evening of 9 July, Adrian Burgess, Alan Burgess and Paul Moores settled into their sleeping-bags at 25,000 ft to get a few hours' rest before the attempt on the summit, 1600 ft above. Reflecting on the progress of the expedition the climbers were forced to accept its changed nature. At this time they were the only climbers still operating on the mountain, with no one between them at 25,000 ft and base camp, 12,000 ft lower down.

On 30 May the expedition of six climbers, the liaison officer and cook arrived in the meadows of Tap Alpe and began to establish a comfortable base camp at an altitude of 11,700 ft. The climbers were Alan Burgess, Adrian Burgess, Paul Moores, Graham Drinkwater, Jon Jones and Randy Morse. Our liaison officer was Major Sadje Hameed. The weather was good, and after making a reconnaissance an advanced base camp was established at 14,000 ft, at the foot of the SSW glacier. The immediate difficulty of the ensuing icefall meant that local porters could not be used in the carrying of loads as first expected.

On 5 June Camp 1 was established at 15,500 ft. The first crisis struck on 6 June when it became apparent that Graham was suffering from high-altitude piulmonary oedema. Everyone descended to base camp and began his evacuation. Jon returned to Gilgit with him and put him on a flight back to Rawalpindi. On 9 June, Alan, Adrian, Paul and Randy moved up to Camp 1.

The next section from 15,500 ft to 20,000 ft was the crux of the climb and involved climbing steep icy gullies and a final rock buttress. Rope was fixed on this section and Camp 2 was eventually reached on 22 June by Paul Moores and Alan Burgess. The following day Adrian and Jon arrived at Camp 2 with the news that Randy had dysentery and had left for Europe a few days earlier. With only four climbers remaining, Adrian and Jon arrived at Camp 2 to stay on 24 June. The four were now in a position to consider a summit attempt. Unfortunately, a typical Nanga Parbat storm blew up and after two days of holding the tents down, they decided to descend to base camp and await better weather.

On 29 June the climbers started to re-ascend, and reached Camp 1. After a day of bad weather at this camp they climbed back up to 20,000 ft and dug Camp 2 out of the freshly fallen snow. The weather was still very unsettled with one day of good weather followed by two of storms. This remained the pattern for the rest of the ascent.

On 3 July, loads were carried to 22,000 ft and deposited on a windswept snow ridge. On 4 July the final disaster hit when Jon announced that he did not feel strong enough to continue and would return to base camp. The three remaining climbers moved up to 22,000 ft. During the next few days a storm blew up and put the small tent in danger of being blown away, including its occupants.

The 7 July saw the climbers moving up a thousand feet despite strong winds and blowing snow. A small ice-cave was dug as a precaution, should the wind suddenly destroy the tent. The following day a steep snow slope was crossed and steepening rocky ground led to Camp 4 at a little under 25,000 ft. From this point the summit could be seen along the ridge to the northeast.

The intermediate ground looked quite straightforward and the summit seemed at last to be within reach. The 9 July was used as a rest day and offered an opportunity to acclimatize. All three climbers suffered from severe headaches as a result of the rapid ascent but were very hopeful for the following day.

At first light on 10 July the climbers left Camp 4 taking with them the bare essentials for the ascent. A tent was carried as the weather still appeared stormy and unsettled. After [descending a short rock-wall a snow basin, some 400 yards across, was traversed to reach a slabby rock buttress descending from the ridge. The problem was to find a weakness in this buttress that would allow a traverse to the easier ground beyond. After attempting three different possibilities the climbers came to the conclusion that the route must follow a higher traverse line just below the ridge. The sun had by then softened the snow and a decision was made to return to Camp 4 and come back the next day.

Back, in Camp 4 a difficult decision had to be made. The three were more tired than they had first realized, after their day's exertions, and they did not have enough food to wait around for another attempt, especially if the weather proved to be at all fickle. The only answer was to retreat; at least as far as Camp 2 and to reserve the final decision until that time. During the night the decision was made for them when the weather broke. The following morning the storm was raging and gradually increasing in intensity.

The retreat began. With no support between 25,000 ft and base camp the descent was a hazardous business. The slightest accident could have proved fatal.

Back in base camp, heavy rain and strong winds indicated that the monsoon had arrived with a vengeance and prohibited any more attempt on the mountain.

Base camp was left on 14 July and the expedition returned to Rawalpindi.

Summary

The largest Rock and Ice Wall in the world known as the Rupal Face was climbed, but the summit of Nanga Parbat was not reached. The climbers were forced to retreat from the summit ridge of 25,000 ft due to very bad weather. All expedition members returned safely,

 

 

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OUR PARTY, Chiba Institute of Technology Karakoram Expedition 1981 to attempt Kanjut Sar, (7760 m) consists of eight climbing members including leader, one base camp manager and one doctor.

On 6 June, we reached the point of temporary base camp, where Jutmar glacier flows into Hispar glacier, with 122 Nagar porters who carried our load of about 3.2 tons.

Although we had planned to employ some porters out of those 122 for loading up to base camp, we discharged all of them because of their excessive requests as well as nasty attitude toward us. On 17 June, loading up to base camp was completed with the help of 10 porters who came from Hispar village four days later after we started loading by ourselves. Base camp was set up at an altitude of 4900 m on snowfield below the west face.

The climbing of the west face began on 18 June. We started our route from east side of the front rocky face when no feasible route could not be found on the face. Through a narrow snow-gully and small rocky face, we could come out on a snow slope leading up to lower part of the Comb tower at 5800 m. Thus, we could avoid the first difficulty of the front rocky face. However, there were no possibilities for a safe camp until we would pass over Comb tower where a very technical traverse of rock on the east side as well as delicate balancing traverse on exposed sections of a horizontal ridge were to be negotiated.

Camp 1 was established finally on 26 June at 5950 m after establishing an intermediary equipment store at 5650 m: this was necessary in view of the distance for carrying load from base camp to Camp 1 which was too long. Also, safety precautions from possible avalanches from the upper west side were investigated. The distance between base camp to Camp 1 was tackled with over 1500 m of fixed rope.

The route onwards from Camp 1 was followed on snow face oi 45 degrees average inclination which directly climbs up to a big snowfield under the rocky face of the summit where Camp 2 was planned. Rather smoothly more than half of the route was progressed within three days. But, at a final point underneath the big snowfield we spent four days to find a safe route through the real labyrinth of snow and ice towers. Moreover, we were compelled to spend extra six days to repair the route which was broken off by continuous avalanches. Totally thirteen days were spent on route from Camp 1 to Camp 2. The establishment of Camp 2 at 6850 m on the big snowfield was done on 13 July.

That same day, three members of Camp 1 were hit by huge avalanches which were caused by breaking of a hanging glacier from the upper west side at a height of about 6600 m. Although two of them were jammed into a crushed tent, were luckily rescued without serious damages by another member who fortunately made a narrow escape by holding fixed rope behind the vertical snow edge which were made for protecting the tent from avalanches.

On 19th, Teramoto and Sakai pressed the route along the west side of rocky face of summit up to height of 7400 m where Camp 3 was intended. And thus, establishment of Camp 3 as the final camp seemed to be possible on 22 July with two members ferrying 15 kg. We were so close to success, just needed two fine days to finish the climb. However, on 22nd two members found that the rope of 200 m above 7000 m, which had been fixed on ice-wall of 55 degrees inclination, were swept away by avalanches. Then, they were obliged to repair the route with 100 m rope in their hands and deposit all the equipment for Camp 3 at the starting point of fixing rope.

From 22 July, bad weather started and continued till 31st. After spending two days in the tent, on 24th we decided to climb down to the base camp considering the bad weather which was forecasted to continue at least for a week.

On 27th early morning it was fair, extremely huge avalanches fell down from the same point as mentioned before. It was so huge that all tents even at base camp were blown away. We found Camp 1 crushed completely but still there and rope fixed on the upper slope of rocky Comb tower to Camp 1. After spending one day of 28th to re-establish Camp 1, it was time to make a final push toward the summit in view of little food that remained. Four members were forced to reach Camp 2 in the snow storm. Yet, they were forced to stay at Camp 2 for two days since it was dangerous to miss the tent in whiteout condition.

From 1 August, we could move and spent two days to repair the route to Camp 3. However, gear of Camp 3 which had been deposited before could not be found despite two days of hard work by two members who devoted themselves to dig snow near the line of the fixed rope. In view of the lesser possibilities of finding the gear of Camp 3, alternative gear was supplied from Camp 1 to Camp 2 by three members on 2 August. This, however, would have been insufficient to carry out more than one summit bid.

On 3 August, Teramoto and Sakai as first summit team started to Camp 3 with support party of three members. They made a campsite at 7400 m at the foot of a gully leading up to the summit ridge, with bivouac sacs.

On 4 August, although it was windy, they left Camp 3 at 7.30 a.m. (without oxygen) climbing the gully of which the angle increased gradually. The last 100 m was on a steep snow and ice and they reached the summit ridge at 10 a.m. They climbed up the ridge with a view of surrounding peaks in fine weather and reached the summit of Kanjut Sar at 11.30 a.m. They came down to Camp 2 at 4.30 p.m. That same day K. Fujii and Kaneko came to Camp 3. Also, happily, the lost gear of Camp 3 was found. This ensured the following summit bid.

On 5th, K Fujii and Kaneko as the second summit team reached the summit in windless fine weather. The following morning, although it was snowing, M. Fujii, Miyano and Shibuya as third summit team reached the summit.

Conclusions

Our ascent took 52 days from establishment of base camp to return to base camp. It was 17 days later than our original schedule. We had planned to employ three high-altitude porters, but they ran away after twice climbing to the dump of equipment store below Camp 1. It seemed to be too difficult for them. As a result of going back to base camp while bad weather continued for 9 days, we could save consuming food at the upper camps for a final summit bid. We used 3900 m fixed rope, and jumars were extensively used for load supplies. Oxygen bottle was carried up to Camp 2 and Camp 3 for emergency purpose, but not used. This successful ascent was brought about by tough efforts, unselfish members and much good luck.

Members: Masayoshi Fujii (leader), Masashi Teramoto (deputy leader), Koichi Fujii, Masanobu Kaneko, Hiroshi Sakai, Nobuaki Miyano, Koji Shibuya, Tatsuhiko Kamachi, Michiro Kawano (doctor), Etsuo Masada (base camp manager), Capt Masro Casim (liaison officer).

 

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