The Thirty-seventh Annual General Meeting was held at the Calcutta Rowing Club, Calcutta, on December 29, 1965, at 7-00 p.m., for the purpose of:

  1. Confirming the Minutes of the Thirty-sixth Annual General Meeting held on Monday, October 26, 1964.
  2. Receiving the Committee's Report and Audited Accounts for the year ended December 31, 1964, and, if thought fit, passing them.
  3. Electing Officers, Members of the Committee and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee and making other appointments. In accordance with Rule 34, the Committee propose the following names:



President ... F, C. Badhwar, Esq., O.B.E.
Vice-Presidents ... T. H. Braham, Esq.
G. R. Iredale, Esq.
Honorary Treasurer ... Mrs. C. B. Marr
Honorary Secretary ... R. Lawford, Esq.
Honorary Local Secretaries
Bombay   S. S. Mehta, Esq.
Darjeeling   M. J. Cheney, Esq.
Dehra Dun   Gurdial Singh, Esq.
Delhi   A. D. Moddie, Esq.
Kulu   J. Banon, Esq.
Simla Hills   R. E. Hotz, Esq.
Kathmandu   Lt.-Col. C. G. Wylie
Pakistan   Col. E. Goodwin
Great Britain   V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E.
Japan   Y. Mita, Esq.
U.S.A.   Dr. S. Dillon Ripley


Members of Committee

Dr. K. Biswas, D.Sc., F.R.S.E., F.N.I., F.B.S. R. K. Dang, Esq.
Gurdial Singh, Esq. M. Z. Ali Baig, Esq.
M. Hruska, Esq. J. A. Eastwood, Esq.
C. J. Henty, Esq. J. N. McKelvie, Esq.
P. L. Roy, Esq. S. S. Mehta, Esq.
Dr. H. V. R. Iengar.  


Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.
A. R. Leyden, Esq.
J. N. Mathur, Esq.
A. Madgavkar, Esq.


Other Appointments:

Honorary Editor ... ... Dr. K. Biswas
Honorary Librarian ... ... Dr. H. V. R. lengar
Honorary Equipment Officer ... M. Hruska, Esq.



After the meeting Dr. H. V. R. Iengar f-ave an illustrated lecture on his climbing expeditions in Sikkim. Twenty-six members and guests attended the function.


Apart from the Annual General Meeting the following meetings took place.


On January 28, Mr. J. P. O'F. Lynam gave an illustrated lecture to members and guests on his attempt on Rakaposhi.

On February 9, Club members were invited to attend an illustrated lecture given by Mr. Norman Dyhrenfurth, Leader of the 1963 American Everest Expedition.

On the February 16, an impromptu slide evening was held when members showed slides they had taken on recent expeditions. This was a great success.


On February 24, members of the Club and their guests were invited by the Climbers Club, Bombay, to a function held in honour of Mr. Norman Dyhrenfurth, Leader of the 1963 American Everest Expedition, when the guest of honour displayed and commented on some of the beautiful slides illustrating the ascents.

On April 28, a joint meeting with the Climbers Club was held when a film of the Swiss Dhaulagiri Himalayan Expedition of 1958 was shown.


On May 12, in the absence of any expeditioners and trekkers, we entertained ourselves with four very good films from the National Film Board of Canada.

On Sunday, June 27, the Club were hosts to a short-notice reception to the successful Indian Everest Team and its sponsors. The function proved most popular and was extremely well attended. The gardens of ' Kashmir House' were beautifully decorated and the Army kindly laid on a military band. The award of the new 4 Tiger Badges' was announced by the President at this reception.


The London Reunion was held on April 9, 1965, when some 46 members and guests met. Amongst those present wpre: Sir Geoffrey and Lady Ramsden, The Hon. R. R. E. Chorley and Mrs. Chorley, Mr. V. S. Risoe, Miss I. R. Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs. C. E. J. Crawford, Mr. D. F. MacMillan, Prof. G. I. Finch, Gen. Sir Roger Wilson, Mrs. D. Ruttledge, Mr. W. E. Murphy, Mrs. J. Dunsheath, Countess Gravina, Mr. and Mrs. A. B. Marshall, Mr. M. J. Cheney, Major and Mrs. Mcleod, Professor and Mrs. N. E. Odell, Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Tyson, Mr. and Mrs. G. H. Emerson, Professor F. C. Rodger, Mr. and Mrs. R. B. B. Tollinton, Lt.-Col. C. G. Wylie, Mr. T. S. Blakeney, Mr. and Mrs. A. K. Rawlinson, Dr. R. Greene, Mrs. R. Lawford and Mr. A. A. Bertram.

Before dinner Mr. J. B. Tyson showed a film of his travels in Nepal in 1961.


The Club's membership at the end of December, 1964, stands at 568, of whom 312 are Life Members and 6 are Honorary Members. The names of 26 Founder Members stand on the current Members' Register.


We mourn the deaths of the following members:
Professor S. G. Dunn (L.F. 1928).
E. H. Marshall, Esq. (L. 1928).
Col. R. H. Phillimore (L.F. 1928).
Sir Purshottamdas Thakurdas (L. 1929).
Lt.-General Kalwant Singh (1955).
T. E. Thomson, Esq. (L. 1946).
General Sir Roger Wilson (H.F. 1928)


While the Club Library in Calcutta continues to function at the G.S.I., arrangements have been made with the National Library who are enlarging one of the buildings at Belvedere for the Club to use as a Library. It is hoped that the Library will be moved to its new home during the course of 1966.



The Third Indian Everest Expedition led by Lt.-Comdr. M. S. Kohli were highly successful in getting no less than four assault teams on the summit. In all, nine climbers reached the top. Nowang Gombu (his second ascent) and Captain A. S. Cheema on May 20, Sonam Gyatso and Sonam Wangyal on May 22, C. P. Vohra and Ang Kami on May 24 and Captain H. S. Ahluwalia, H. C. S. Rawat and Phu Dorje on May 29.

Ngojumba Ri (25,720 feet), also called Cho Oyu II, was climbed by a Japanese expedition led by Dr. M. Watanabe. One member and a Sherpa reached the summit on April 23.

A German expedition led by Mr. G. Hauser attempted Annapurna I from the South and East without success. Gangapurna (24,375 feet) was climbed on May 6 and 8. Ali eight members and three Sherpas reached the summit. Expedition members also climbed Glacier Dome (23,866 feet) and Tent Peak.

Japanese expeditions attempted Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) and Dhaulagiri II (25,429 feet). On the latter expedition two Sherpas were unfortunately killed by an avalanche.

Dhaulagiri IV (25,064 feet) was attempted by an R.A.F. expedition led by Lt.-Col. J. O. M. Roberts. Mr. G. Lenser led a scientific expedition to the Kumbu area.


Khinyang Chish (25,762 feet) was attempted by a Japanese expedition. Two unsuccessful attempts were made on the summit. One member unfortunately lost his life in an avalanche.

Minipin (23,840 feet) was attempted by another Japanese ex- pediton.

Correction:—The German expedition in 1964 led by Mr. P. Lipp and recorded in Volume XXV, page 206, attempted K7 and not K6.


Ganesh Parbat (21,430 feet) was climbed by an Indian Police team on June 16. The team was led by Mr. Shivraj Singh who reached the summit along with Mr. R. C. Sahi, Mr. P. Singh, Mr, B. Singh and Mr. Ang Chatter. Sherpas Sang Boo Aila, Hisse and the two high-altitude porters, Puran and Kalyan Singh, also reached the summit.

Chandra Parbat (22,073 feet) was climbed by an Indian expedition led by Pilot Officer Raju on May 22. The summit team comprised Mr. A. S. Kashyap, Mr. A. Sen and Sherpas Ang Dawa and Gyalsen. This was the second ascent.

Tirsuli (23,210 feet) was abandoned by an Indian expedition led by Mr. K. P. Sharma on account of continuous heavy snow-fall and blizzards. Their attempt on nearby Nital Thaur (20,460 feet) was also abandoned.

Bander Punch (20,720 feet) was attempted during June by Officers and Cadets of the National Defence Academy (Poona) led by Major Jagjit Singh.


An Austrian expedition led by Kurt Diemberger climbed Tirich Mir North (7,056 metres) on September 4. They also climbed three other lower peaks in the area.

A German party led by Mr. D. Drescher visited the Chitral area and made the first ascent on Darben Zom (7,220 metres). This peak was also climbed by an Austrian expedition later in the year.

The Italian expedition visited the Bandaker group and climbed Noh-e-Bandaka main summit (6,843 metres). The expedition was led by Mr. R. Varvelli. This peak was also climbed earlier in the year by a German expedition led by Mr. J. Seitner.

Dr. A. James with a party of 11 other members visited the Chitral area. Besides scientific work, they attempted Mir Zamir.

Another British party led by Dr. I. Grant visited the Chitral area and attempted a 19,000 feet peak.

A Czechoslovakian expedition consisting of 13 members visited the Wakhan area and climbed several peaks, the highest being Koh-i-Harad (6,849 metres).

Dr. G. Gruber led an Austrian expedition to Chitral and climbed three peaks, the highest being Buni Zom North Peak (6,338 metres).


Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) was climbed by a small party from Bombay led by Mr. L. R. Chari on June 1. The summit team comprised Mr. A. H. Mistry, Mr. M. Tandon, Mr. Pasang Tsering, Mr. Ang Chhota and a porter; other members of the expedition were Mrs. M. L. Chari and Mr. Kothari.

During July /August, 1965, an Expedition-cum-Advance Course of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering, Manali, led by the Principal, visited the Lahaul Valley. Mulkila (21,380 feet) was climbed on July 23 by Dhan Kumar and Ladakhi porter Palgun. On i he same day, a solo climb by Mr. Pannu of M-5 was made.

Mr. R. C. Pettigrew led an expedition and made the first ascent on Ramchukor (17,025 feet).


Mr. Peter Cot led a small Botanical Expedition to NEFA, entering the area via Tezpur.


The following Tiger Badges have been awarded during the year in connection with the Indian Everest Expedition:

Dawa Norbu .. H.C. No. 322
Tashi (Chhota) .. H.C. No. 236
Karma .. H.C. No. 326
Sona .. H.C. No. 357
Kalden .. H.C. No. 309
Tenzing Nendra .. H.C. No. 362
Nawang Hilla .. H.C. No. 363
Pasang Tendi .. H.C. No. 364
Mingma Tshering .. H.C. No. 365
Tenzing Gyatso .. H.C. No. 366
Pemba Tharke .. H.C. No. 367
Nima Tenzing .. H.C. No. 368
Dawa Tenzing .. H.C. No. 369



All papers intended for publication should be forwarded to the Hon. Editor, c/o The Himalayan Club, Post Box No. 9049, Calcutta 16. It is requested that articles should be typewritten, and preferably accompanied by sketch-maps ; these should be clearly drawn in Indian ink with references given, if possible, to the existing Survey Sheets. Photographs should be clear, with caption and definition as accurate and sharp as possible ; they should be at least half-page size, printed on glossy paper. The Editor will be glad to receive articles of general Himalayan interest and also on subjects other than climbing.


The only volumes now available for sale are Vols. XVII, XIX, XX, XXI, XXII, XXIII, XXIV, XXV, which are priced at Rs.10 per copy, post free for members, and applies to one copy per member. In some cases additional copies can be made available at Rs.14 per copy, post free.


Responsibility for non-delivery of the Journal cannot be accepted if members do not notify their change of address. Considerable trouble is caused in re-addressing Journals returned, and duplicate copies cannot be sent except on payment.


Members are requested to notify the Hon. Secretary promptly of any change of address. If this Journal has not been correctly addressed, will you please advise the Hon. Secretary immediately of the alterations ?


The Club is still endeavouring to trace a few Life Members with whom they have lost contact. Any information as to their whereabouts will be greatly appreciated by the Hon. Secretary.

Lt.-Col. R. Griffith.
Major A. M. Jenkins.
J. S. Kala, Esq.
P. N. Nikore, Esq.
I. R. Menzies, Esq.
Dr. L. R. Phillips.
Dr. D. W. Soughan.


Mr. D. F. O. Dangar has continued the good work of indexing the Himalayan Journal and the Index for Volume XXV is being included with this Journal. Should any member require copies of the previous Journal Index, they are available from either Mr. V. S. Risoe in London or the Honorary Librarian in Calcutta.


We gratefully acknowledge receipt during the year of the following journals and publications in exchange of our Journal: The Alpine Journal.

The Geographical Journal.
Journal of the Royal Central Asian Society.
The British Ski Year Book.
Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journal.
The Rucksack Club Journal.
Cambridge Mountaineering.
The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.
The American Alpine Journal.
The New Zealand Alpine Journal.
The Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa.
Appalachian Club Bulletins.
La Montagne et Alpinisme.
Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpenvereins.

Journal of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
Japanese Alpine Club Journal.
Journal of the United Services Institutions, India.
The Italian Alpine Club Journal.
The Canadian Alpine Journal.
Austrian Alpine Club Journal.
The Climbers' Club Journal.
The Fell and Rock Club Journal.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Journal.
Ladies' Alpine Club Journal.




I. Each article should be signed by the author or authors and forwarded to the Editor with necessary instructions, if any.

II. Authors are requested to write their articles as concisely as possible, not exceeding 5,000 words for major expeditions and 2,000 words for minor ones.

III.The MS. must be easily legible, preferably typewritten, with double spacing, on one side of the quarto or foolscap paper and with pages numbered throughout. It must be in its final form for printing. Authors are advised to retain copies of their papers as the Club cannot accept responsibility for safe custody.

IV.References to plates, photographs, etc., should be inserted in the MS. where required. Position for the insertion of illustrations appearing in the text should be indicated.

All photographs, maps and drawings should, where possible, allow reduction to about two-thirds the linear dimensions, and the amount of the reduction should be considered, during drafting, with regard to the size and strength of shading, lettering, lines, etc. Maps should be submitted, if possible, not rolled. The over-all space available for figures and plates is 7" (17 cm.)x 4" (10 cm.) in the Journal of the Club.

V. Four to five photographs and two maps for articles on major expeditions and two photos and one map for minor expeditions will generally be accepted for publication in the Journal. Exceptions will be made in special cases.

VI. Photographs should be unmounted glossy black and white prints, marked on the back with the name of the author, number of the figure and an indication of the top. Prints should not be trimmed or cut out. Authors should suggest the arrangement of the figures on each plate, either by a diagram or a paste-up of rough prints, with indication of any lettering to be inserted, Lettering must be in black ink in neat and legible style, or lightly written in pencil.

Proofs of papers will be sent to authors or communicators to the address indicated in correspondence, or on MSS. if necessary- Normally the editor is to correct the proofs. The cost of author's corrections in excess of 5 per cent of the printer s charges for the setting of a particular paper will be charged to the author.

References to previous volumes and number of the particular Journal in the text should be made by quoting the author's name the volume and page number and the year of publication of the paper in the said Journal.

Manuscripts for publication should be submitted to the Editor. The Himalayan Club, P.O. Box No 9049 Calcutta 16.

Himalayan Journal


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