Himalayan Journal vol.24
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.24

Publication year:
1963

Editor:
Dr K. Biswas
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. THE ASCENT OF JANNU
    (Pierre Leroux)
  3. ASCENT OF NUPCHU
    (SASUKE NAKAO)
  4. EVEREST; 1962
    (SUMA.N DUBEY)
  5. TRANSPORT AND SHERPAS ON MOUNT EVEREST, 1963
    (J. O. M. ROBERTS)
  6. PUMORI -THE DAUGHTER MOUNTAIN (23,442 FEET)
    (GERHARD LENSER)
  7. THE NETHERLANDS HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL WEST-NEPAL, 1962
    (P. VAN LOOKEREN CAMPAGNE)
  8. DHAULA HIMAL
    (JAMES ROBERTS)
  9. THE JAGDULA EXPEDITION, 19621
    (DENISE EVANS)
  10. MANA-NILGIRI EXPEDITION, 1962
    (Captain S. N. DUBEY)
  11. A CAMPING TRIP TO THE HIMALAYA, 1960
    (DR. W. HAMBERGER)
  12. ITALIAN EXPEDITION TO THE PUNJAB HIMALAYAS, 1961
    (PAOLO CONSIGLIO)
  13. THE ASCENTS OF INDRASAN AND DEO TIBBA
    (PROF. DR. K. ONODERA)
  14. KHINYANG CHHISH, 1962
    (DR. P. J. HORNIBLOW)
  15. SWAT AND INDUS KOHISTAN
    (TREVOR BRAHAM)
  16. BRITISH-SOVIET PAMIRS EXPEDITION, 1962
    (SIR JOHN HUNT)
  17. EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES
  18. OBITUARY
  19. BOOK REVIEWS
  20. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
  21. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1962-63
  22. THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

EDITORIAL

Once again the Journal reaches members later than we planned, and the reasons for the delay appear as usual less convincing on paper than they seemed in reality. Events on the Indo-Tibetan border towards the end of 1962 have made it increasingly difficult for those concerned to devote sufficient attention to the affairs of the Club and, in spite of many reminders, articles and proofs have spent more time in other people's pending trays than Dr. Biswas wished. We offer our apologies and promise to do better next time. And for what it is worth, we have already received a report that ' the work of collecting articles for the next number is well in hand

The success of the Journal depends, of course, on those who write articles for it and naturally the fewer the expeditions which take place, the fewer authors there will be. The times are not as propitious for mountaineering in the Himalayas as we would wish. Inevitably there are restrictions in areas where trouble has occurred or is likely to occur. The Inner Line moves steadily back from the border and 'notified areas' spring up in very unexpected places. As a result, foreigners in particular may think the game not worth the candle. Ministries, however, assure us that they 'will be only too glad to consider applications which reach them sufficiently in advance’, and we can only hope that members will not feel unduly discouraged about organizing expeditions to the Himalayas. Certainly, any help which Honorary Local Secretaries can give will be forthcoming generously.

There are references in this number to two important aspects of mountaineering. All who are interested in climbing in the Himalayas are thirsty for information of every kind about expeditions whether they have been ‘successful' or not. We climb on the shoulders of others and those who plan an expedition want detailed and accurate information, not only about approach marches and base camps but also about routes attempted, difficulties encounters! and the factors which contributed to the success or failure of an attempt. Only a few of us are gifted enough to be able to write articles which will live as mountaineering literature, but all of us are capable of recording the kind of information which will help the next party on our mountain. So we make a special appeal to all those who climb in the Himalayas to record their efforts as accurately and comprehensively as possible.

The second aspect stems from the first. From time to time claims to have reached a summit are made in circumstances which cast doubts 011 their genuineness. There are no convincing photographs, the information given is scanty, sometimes contradictory, and at times palpably incorrect. Inevitably, those who are interested begin to weigh the evidence and there comes a moment when they feel justified in rejecting the claim. No one enjoys questioning the integrity of another, least of all a friend and fellow mountaineer. And there is, of course, the fact that however indifferently the climb has been described and however slight the chances are that it was successful, the critic himself was not there and the claimant was. Nevertheless all those who climb in mountains where there are still many ‘firsts' to be accomplished, should take it for granted that their claims and accounts will be rigorously examined by mountaineers at least as competent as themselves and just as anxious to arrive at the truth. It may not always be possible to arrive at an absolutely convincing judgement but by and large it may be assumed that truth will prevail.

Members of the Club are inevitably greatly indebted to those who manage its affairs and I know that they would like me to record here our special thanks to those who have given so generously of their time and abilities: to Mr. R. Lawford, the Honorary Secretary, to Mr. B. W. Ritchie, the Honorary Treasurer, and to Dr. K. Biswas, the Honorary Editor, all of whom have rendered very special service to the Club.