THE MOUNTAINS OF CENTRAL LAHUL

(National Union of Students expedition)

Ludwig Krenek

Lahul has comparatively little rain during the monsoon and this was one reason why we chose it for our visit to the Himalaya in August and September 1939. The other reason was that we could not hope to succeed on any much higher mountains with only eleven weeks holiday, including the voyages by sea to and from India. The approaches had to be short for the same reason. C. G. Bruce, in his book Kulu and Lahoul (London, 1914), described a few climbs near the Kulu-Leh road but nothing was known about the interior of the Bhaga-Chandra triangle (Map 1 inch to 4 miles, No. 52 H). We decided to attempt a peak marked 21,380 and to proceed to it by the Milang valley.

The members of our party were Donald Comber (Windsor), Dr. Frank Hollick (Cambridge), Robey Johnson (London), Miss Hilda Richmond (Leeds), Dr. Fritz Kolb (Vienna), and the author (Vienna). The National Union of Students in London-and its Vienna branch office, the Amt fur Studentenwanclerungen, lent us equipment and helped to smooth our way with the authorities. In Kyelang we enjoyed the hospitality and advice of Rev. F. A. Peter and his sister Miss Elizabeth Peter. We had three Sherpa porters, Ang Tsering, Ang Nima, and Ang Babu. Provisions were bought in Bombay and Amritsar.

Hollick and Kolb preceded the main group by about two weeks, and made it possible for us to go right up to the glaciers without loss of time. Besides smaller excursions our advance party made a notable attempt to climb M 10 from the west. Kolb got as high as 18,000 feet, but there was not enough time to complete the climb.

We arrived in Manali six days after landing in Bombay. The trip to Kyelang took three days. En route, we crossed the Rangcha Gali in the hope of getting a good view, but were disappointed as all the higher peaks were in clouds. When Johnson and I climbed that pass again on our return journey we were luckier. The Shikar Beh range (along the left bank of the Chandra) and the peaks just north of Kyelang present themselves most favourably. Of the mountains of Central Lahul only some peaks of Tela Nullah and Koa Rong are visible. Kolb met us in Kyelang on the 25th August and we left for the Milang valley next day. The evening saw us camping near the suspension bridge of birch twigs which connects Sumdo with Dartse; (these names and all further geographical details refer to our sketch-map rather than to 52 H—there are considerable differences). Up to here we had made use of five mules, but since the Bhaga was not fordable we changed over to twenty local coolies next day. There is a good path till just below Yotse, where the traveller has to face another of those precarious birch-twig bridges. We would have preferred to continue on the right bank, since Kolb had told us that we could re-cross the Milang only by an enormous detour over a snow bridge far inside the valley. But it turned out that the Koa Rong river was equally unfordable. So we proceeded over the bridge to Yotse and the Preliminary Gamp (12,000 feet) of our advance party, where Hollick had spent some days in studying the distribution of certain aquatic insects.

We had decided to build a rope bridge rather than move all the luggage over the far away snow bridge. Therefore Johnson and Kolb with Ang Tsering did the trip over the latter that same evening in order to receive the rope at the other bank. On the 28th August with the first light we began building the bridge. Using a pulley to reduce friction we soon had all the loads safely across. A sheep was the first live passenger; some coolies followed while the rest of the caravan preferred to take the long way.

With the additional luggage of the advance party we had now twenty-seven loads but only twenty coolies (no more could be found). For the moment seven loads had to be left behind. The great Milang glacier begins with steep ice and the usual desolation of big boulders. The Dartse men moved splendidly over that difficult ground in their straw sandals. We were pleased with them also in other ways: they were cheerful, honest and dependable. When we reached the flat part of the glacier we could see in the distance a spot which seemed suitable for a base camp. Seven coolies—after some persuasion—agreed to dump their loads here and haul the other ones from down at the river right up to the Base Camp. Their original loads they fetched at dawn the next day without even being asked to do so.

The site of our Base Camp was ideal. (See illustrations 1 and 3.) It was situated on an old level lateral moraine 14,400 feet high, with a gorgeous view over almost the whole length of the glacier (9 miles). The spot had sunshine all day, it was out of the range of falling stones, and water was not far off. There was, of course, no firewood, only some scrub. For two days we were busy making ourselves comfortable. Then followed smaller excursions and on the 1st September we felt ready for real climbs. We split up into two groups. Miss Richmond, Johnson and Kolb, with Ang Tsering, set out for M 10, while the rest of us, with Ang Babu, aimed at M i.²Camps were pitched at about 17,000 feet and the two groups reached their peaks at 8 and 11 a.m. respectively, on the 2nd September. The climbs were easy ones except for the last steep ice ridge leading up to M 10. Nearby rocks were used there for the descent. Kolb and his group had clouds when they reached the top. But during the ascent they were able to scrutinize the approaches to Mulkila, M 6, and M 7. (See illustration 4.) On M 1 we had clear weather. The red rock towers on the other side of the Koa Rong glacier remind one of the Dolomites. It is doubtful whether any one of these peaks can be climbed from this side without extreme difficulty.

Footnote

I. hope the reader will not think that we called our mountains by letters and numbers. For us they were Schneeglocke (Snow bell) (M 1), Lyskamm (M 6), Richmond peak (M 7), and so on. The only native name which we were able to establish beyond doubt is that of the highest peak of Lahul, Mulkila (the accent is on the a), 21,380 feet. It is a beautiful name for a beautiful mountain, for it means Silver God.

Our next aim was Mulkila. It was plain that the big ice fall in the southern branch of the Milang glacier would be the main difficulty on our way to the proposed site of Camp I. We found a passage on the extreme left, Johnson doing most of the path-finding. Moving slowly—we had heavy loads—we reached in six hours the island of red rocks and scree which had been singled out from M 10 for Camp I (17,000 feet).

Miss Richmond and Hollick returned to the Base Camp. They were to arrange for further supplies. We four others explored the route to Mulkila on the following day. The slopes over which we intended to reach the south ridge of our mountain did not seem practicable for porters. So we decided to make the attempt from a camp only 18,800 feet high, on the level snow at the head of the glacier. We also acquainted ourselves with the way up to the saddle. The shortest possible route was barred by a formidable bergschrund which was overcome by Kolb only after hard work. The rocks that followed were easy but much exposed to falling stones. The whole climb of 600 feet took us one and three-quarter hours.

The saddle (between Mulkila and M 6) lies on the main divide between the Chandra and the Bhaga rivers and is about 19,400 feet high. Through gaps in the clouds, we saw a huge glacier flowing down to the east.

With the object of finding a safer way we descended over steep and broken ice farther south. That way was longer and hardly easier but was out of reach of falling stones. There was also no bergschrund.

The next day we brought up our two tiny Welzenbach tents. We called the new Camp II <2, because we were later on to erect another one for M 7, which was at a similar height above Camp I and got the designation 2 b. Comber, Johnson, Kolb and I were all on our own; the Sherpas had gone down to bring more food from the base to Camp I. The weather was none too good. It snowed all the afternoon so that we could not cut any steps towards the saddle, as we had planned to do. In the evening the clouds broke at last and the Lyskamm's (M 6) high ice wall rose majestically just before us. The tracks of many fresh avalanches made it an awesome sight.

The weather was good when we left camp at 5 a.m. on the 7th September. We chose the longer way and reached the saddle at 7.30. This time we had a better view of the country to the east. There are some magnificent mountains on the right bank of the big glacier, the highest marked 20,430 on the map. The ridge leading up to M 6 is sharp, and bristled with cornices that day, but we would have chosen it as our line of ascent had we not discovered that M 7 was higher.

At 8 o'clock we turned towards Mulkila. At first there are some rock towers to be tackled, but after this the ridge widens and is so easy that we could go without ropes. At a shoulder, 20,400 feet high, we stopped from 10.10 to 10.45. Comber felt that he was not sufficiently acclimatized and decided to wait here for our return. In an hour's time we were at the foot of the steep rocks which form the top of Mulkila and which were to decide the success or failure of our attempt. We took the rope and at first followed the ridge till it became impracticable. My attempts to find a way in the eastern flank were unsuccessful; but the western flank offered a system of ledges and chimneys which allowed us to reach a big gully directly connected with the snow of the top. Here, with no more obstacles before us, I suddenly felt the altitude; and I was a bit envious of my two companions who did not seem to be bothered at all.

We spent one hour on the top (2.10 to 3.10 p.m.). There was no wind; the temperature was minus 1⁰ C.; and there was no view. Already for some time we had been climbing in mist, and so there we sat without seeing a thing—as has happened to us on all the high peaks of Lahul.

We made a quick descent. In forty minutes we were out of the rocks and but a little later we reached the shoulder where Comber was the first to congratulate us. In spite of all our hurrying, we were caught in the dark on the lower ice slopes just above our tents. By 7.30 p.m. we were in safety again.

There was a general meeting in Camp I on the 8th September when Hollick and Miss Richmond had come up with all the porters. Johnson and Comber went back to the base in the afternoon. It was their job now to see that we got enough food in the upper camps. The weather was fine and we enjoyed sunbathing protected by the warm red rocks behind our tents.

M 7 was our next aim. It is the second highest peak of the Milang group if one disregards M 5 as not independent enough. On the 9th September we moved up the southernmost branch of the glacier, slowly negotiating its big crevasses. Near the head of the glacier we climbed a not very steep buttress of ice far to the right of the deepest depression between M 6 and M 7. About half-way up there was a little shoulder where we could prepare with our ice-axes a platform for the Welzenbach tents (19,200 feet, five hours from Camp I). Kolb at once led the porters back over the steeper parts to the flat glacier whence they returned to Camp I by themselves. The afternoon was rather unpleasant. There was a strong wind, and snow fell all the time. Cooking in such small tents is irksome.

When we woke up next morning we found our camp buried in snow. Not before 7.50 had the weather sufficiently improved for us to leave. With low expectations we climbed up the icy slopes, cutting steps at first. We were on two ropes, Miss Richmond and and Kolb and Hollick. The buttress soon brought us up to the broad ridge which leads over two minor bumps to the foot of M 7. The going was heavy because of the rough surface of the ice: pinnacles had to be negotiated all the while—probably penitentes in the first stage. The bad weather continued.

In the saddle just before our peak we waited from 10.20 till 11.40 a.m. At that time a ray of sunshine provided us with a ray of hope and we decided to attack the peak at once. There were two parts in the route we had planned: a very steep and high ice slope up to a rocky shoulder, and a ridge of rock and ice from there to the top. Not that we could see this now; but we knew it from earlier observations.

On ice walls it is always well to think of the descent from the outset. So I cut extra big steps every 15 yards in which to rest on the way down and from which to give such security as a rope can afford on steep ice. Miss Richmond was a splendid partner; her technique on crampons was superb.

A biting wind and gusts of snow welcomed us at the shoulder. The fog was thicker than ever. Should we turn back? Kolb and Hollick, however, who were now to take the lead, were determined to finish their job as we had finished ours. Moving rapidly over rock and ice we reached the top in what must have been very good time (20,800 feet, 2.5-2.40 p.m.). We were well acclimatized; a week earlier we could not have climbed so fast. As usual, we sat in thick clouds, but the wind had stopped and it was not snowing.

(a) The ice walls of M7 and M8 from Base Camp (telephoto)

(b) Mountains of the Koa Rong from the saddle between Mi and M2 (17,800 feet)

(c) Mulkila (21,380) and M5 (20,900) from Base Camp (telephoto)

We felt quite relieved when we were at the foot of the ice slope again. Somehow the two 'bumps' had become real peaks during our absence, judging by the time and effort it took us to traverse them. The Sherpas had come up to Camp II b, and with their help we were able to get everything down to Camp I that same evening.

It snowed all night and all morning. Only at 2 p.m. could we leave for the Base Camp. With the new snow the descent was difficult, but we managed to do the trip in less than four hours.

Now that we were all happily together again, our post and vegetable runner brought the news of the outbreak of the war. It was on the 11 th September. Next morning we held a council and decided to break off our expedition. Our plan had been to try some of the rock peaks of the Koa Rong. Johnson had explored the way from our base into that valley on the 9th September.

Kolb went down to Kyelang in order to find out what had happened since the 3rd September, for that was the date of the newspaper which we had received. Would the Mediterranean still be open or had Italy entered the war? This was of great importance for our English friends. It would make no difference to Kolb and myself—holders of German passports. We knew what was in store for us. Kolb had also to recruit coolies for the evacuation of the Base Camp.

On the 13th September we went exploring the northern branch of the Milang glacier. Johnson on that occasion climbed M 3 (19,000 feet). We found many fossils. The morning of the 14th September brought us the finest weather we had had so far. The air was as clear as crystal. Comber went down with Ang Nima to the Preliminary Camp and waited there for Kolb to return. We others did whatever we thought was a pleasant way of spending the last day up there: taking photographs, collecting stones, plants, insects, and so on. At lunch-time Miss Richmond failed to appear. Johnson went to meet her but returned alone after two hours. Since she had often been late when collecting plants we had not at first thought of an accident, but now we became seriously alarmed. We organized a systematic search which went on till 1 a.m. next morning. When the eighteen coolies arrived a few hours later, they continued the search under Hollick's direction and found Hilda Richmond dead in a steep gully not far from the Base Camp. The stream bed from which we usually got our water was dry on the morning of the 14th September, owing to the intense cold which marked the onset of the fine autumn weather. Miss Richmond had meant to have a wash— she had a towel with her—and had therefore followed the course of the stream upwards into the steep rocks till she found a pool of clear water. There she was hit on the head by a falling stone and killed instantly.

Miss Hilda Richmond lies buried where our Base Camp was. A rough memorial of rocks marks the grave.

The final descent was accomplished the same day, the 15th September. We could ford the Milang river this time since it had much less water. Comber and Kolb were waiting for us on the far bank. We had to break to them the terrible news.

The night was spent just beyond Yotse bridge. Horses from the village took our loads next morning, since the Bhaga was also fordable now. After a restful day in Kylang with the Peters we marched on towards Manali. Rangcha Gali and Beas Rikhi were climbed on the way in order to complete our knowledge of Central Lahul. The weather was at its best. We were back in Manali on the 21st September 1939.

Explanation of the map. Based on trigonometrically fixed points of sheet 52 H. The details are taken from levelled photographic panoramas.

T == Telah nullah. KR = Koa rong (rong = narrow valley).

M = Milang.

T 2. Crest of reddish rocks with several pinnacles. Well visible from Jispa.

KR 1 (Punthotho == the twin pinnacles). A beautiful mountain, prominent from the valley south of our preliminary camp. Difficult. Best ascent probably along the south ridge.

KR 4, KR 5, KR 6 and KR 7 are very steep mountains with enormous walls of red rock.

M 4 (Mulkila). Just visible from the Beas Rikhi, but not from the Rohtang pass. A party of Italian officers tried to climb it in May 1945, but without success. They thought the 'saddle' impossible and tried therefore to reach the west ridge of Mulkila to the west of M 5. They succeeded, however, only in reaching the saddle south of M 5 (nearly 20,000 feet). The Italians did not know of our ascent.

M 5. A steep, black pyramid, is the second highest mountain of Central Lahul. It is too close to Mulkila to arouse much interest.

M 6. A double-topped mountain with a very steep ice wall to the north. North-east ridge possible.

M 7. Visible from the Rohtang pass, but not very impressive on account of the distance. The ascent from the southern Milang valley is probably even more difficult than from the north.

M 8. This is one of the most beautiful mountains of the Milang region, with steep ice walls to the north and south and with tremendous rock ridges and walls to the west. Well visible from the Rotang pass, as a sharp horn. Seems very difficult from all sides.

M 10. Gives an excellent view over the whole Milang region.

There is an easy, though steep pass (Pt. 16161 on map 52 H/SW) leading from the southern Milang valley to Khoksar. (I crossed it in June 1945.) Our Base Camp could be reached by this route in 2 or 2 J days, the head of the southern Milang valley with its grand cirque of mountains in 1 ½ days.

(d) Mulkila, M6 and M7 from below top of M10. Camp Ila left, camp IIb right. The routes are only shown up to the saddles. From there we followed the ridges

Some hints for mountaineering in Lahul

Mules are obtainable at Manali, Khoksar and Dartse. It is more difficult to get them at Kyelang, as most of them are used for the transport of 'kuth' to Kulu.

Coolies should be taken from Lahul, not from Kulu. The Lahulis are much better and more reliable. A few will be found at Khoksar, Jispa, Dartse and Yotse. During sowing and harvest, however, hardly any coolies will be available.

For the copying of this map the Journal is indebted to Dr. F. Hollick

It is better not to rely on food supply in Lahul. Except for sheep and a little atta and rice (Kyelang) hardly anything is obtainable. Eggs and milk might be procured occasionally.

The weather during August and September 1939 was much better than that experienced by Bruce in 1912 and Michinton in 1914. According to the Rev. Peter the summer of 1939 was a 'normal' one. That means that even the monsoon period can be well used for mountaineering in Lahul. The best time, however, is June or October (June 1945 was perfect). Besides settled weather there is the additional advantage that the rivers can be easily crossed.

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