Two Tremors and a Thwarted Summer

Kunzang exploration

Group Captain V K Sashindran

The Directorate of Indian Air Force Adventure launched its ‘IAF Marking India’ series of expeditions in 2013. The objective of this series is to explore uncharted areas in the Karakorams and in the northeastern region of India. In the last two years, IAF teams have explored the Rongdo valley in the East Karakorams, climbed a virgin peak east of Neygei Kangsang and retraced old pilgrim trails in Upper Siang. The Kunzang valley exploratory expedition in the East Karakorams was conceived as a part of this series. A 12 - member team spent four weeks in May 2015 exploring this remote valley which has hitherto remained hidden from curious human eyes.

The earthquake which caused devastation in Nepal was a prelude to our trip. I was in Lucknow examining MD (Medicine) candidates when the earth shook beneath our feet. Two tremors and a transformer that burst into flames made us switch on the TV to see what was happening. The sight of Dharhara tower in Durbar Square reduced to a mound of rubble was the first of many horrific images that would keep people glued to their TV sets for the ensuing weeks. Fortunately for us, the tremors had not touched the Karakorams and we were flagged off from Air Force Station New Delhi as per schedule on 27 April 2015. A bus journey to Chandigarh and then an airlift by an IL-76 aircraft saw us landing in Leh on 28 April. The usual pre-expedition formalities of getting clearances from the army and checking logistics happened over the next few days and we left for Shyok on 2 May. The advance weather forecast for the month showed a series of western disturbances winging towards the Himalaya. We braced ourselves for some bad weather. But, we were being foolishly optimistic.

The Kunzang valley is a narrow valley in the East Karakorams. It is roughly to the northeast of Rongdo, and to the west of the Charbagh massif. It is the second major valley opening on the true right side of the Shyok river after the Shupka valley. It is precisely at the 63 km milestone on the subsector north (SSN) road which now runs along the Shyok river from Shyok village to Daulat Beg Oldi. The locals identify the mouth of the valley by a clump of juniper trees growing on the cliffs on the true left side of the river. The valley mouth is barred by a scree wall and it was only the GPS coordinates (N34 21 57.2, E 078 17 31.4, alt 3830 m) that made us stop and take a second look. The stream, Kunzang Togpo emerges as a trickle from the southern corner of the scree. The narrow entrance, and lack of mountain vista made me think, ‘Are we wise in entering this valley? It could be a waste of time and energy.’

But in the defence forces, there is no turning back. So, a base camp was made on the banks of the Shyok and reconnaissance teams moved in to survey the valley. Over the next few days, the valley slowly revealed itself to us. Markings of a snow leopard along the rocky walls at the valley entrance and numerous hot springs in the initial stretch were indicators of an exciting time ahead. A landslide on the true right side of the Kunzang Togpo had dammed the river downstream. Since we were early in the season, the stream was frozen and allowed us easy passage. Our next camp was 17 km inside the valley where a prominent stream joins Kunzang Togpo on its true right side. At the head of this side valley is an irregular peak with a prominent rock face. This peak is named Tak Jaal (rocky face – Ladakhi) and the stream Tak Jaal Togpo. The rock face, resembling Obelix’s menhir, was the next draw.

The team went up Tak Jaal valley to look for a route up the peak. The valley climbs steeply till a cwm is reached. The valley broadens beyond the cwm and Tak Jaal towers on the left. A sharp climb brings one up panting and puffing to a glacier 750 - 1000 m wide and 10 km long. The glacier, at a height of more than 5500 m, is hedged by high peaks on either side. This high glacier seems like a floating cloud and was hence named Dhing Srehen glacier (floating clouds – Ladakhi). Another glacier debouches into this one from between two high peaks about 5800 m high, heightening the impression. At the head of Dhing Srehen glacier are two conical peaks and an ice wall. This ice wall separates this glacial valley from the big glacial field at the head of the Kunzang valley. We set up our advance base camp on the lateral moraine of this glacier (N 34 24 11.5, E 078 11 20.7, alt 5535 m). From here, we climbed the Tak Jaal peak (N 34 23 19.1, E 078 11 44.9, alt 6123 m) by following the northwest ridge. The snow was firm and there was crumbly shale on the leeward aspect of the mountain in its higher reaches. We had to fix ropes as the approach to the summit was on an exposed rock face. From the peak we could see a jagged, razor-sharp ridge extending westwards separating this valley from the Shukpa Togpo valley. To the north a high peak was visible. Later on, referring to the map, it was apparent that this peak was 6723 m and resembled Matterhorn from afar. To the east, across the Shyok, the rounded dome of Charbagh dominated the immediate neighbourhood. Bright sunshine added to the heady mood and we descended to our base camp.

A second summit team went up to the Tak Jaal summit camp the same day and climbed another peak two km to the northwest of Tak Jaal from its eastern face (N 34 23 179, E 078 10 985, alt 6038 m). This peak was named Khemtses (the neighbour – Ladakhi).

The weather turned and we were confined to the base camp in the main valley. The third summit team which was scheduled to attempt one of the peaks on the true left side of the Dhing Srehen glacier two km beyond our summit camp had to abandon its plans. It was mid-May and summer seemed far away. Everything was quiet. The Kunzang Togpo slid silently under a sheet of ice and grass blades of the previous summer encased in ice showed no signs of rejuvenation. The marmot burrows appeared abandoned, the animals still not wakened from their winter sleep. The patter of snow and the shudder of the tent frames in the wind were the only sounds to engage us. A brief respite prompted us to move base up the valley to grazing meadows on the left side of the valley six km from our previous camp site (N34 28 10.4, E 078 06 38.5, alt 5482 m). Our focus had now shifted to a different area. Between the main Kunzang valley and the Dhing Srehen glacier to the north is the Central Massif. This massif is a conglomerate of high peaks all technically challenging. The massif is bisected by a narrow valley and we called this Goskap Lungpa (valley of opportunities in Ladakhi). From the campsite on the meadows, it was a half-hour walk on the boulders on the river bank to the place where the Kunzang gorge began. It took another half an hour to reach the entrance to the Goskap Lungpa. The Kunzang tso is another half an hour trek beyond this valley entrance. We spent three days carrying out recces in this area and doing load ferries to the distal bank of Kunzang tso. We planned to go up Goskap Lungpa and climb three peaks at the south-eastern end of this glacier abutting the Dhing Srehen glacier. There are twin peaks here which seemed technically interesting. The day we set off to establish a summit camp in Goskap Lungpa the weather turned again. A sudden blizzard thwarted us and we had to abandon our plan. We returned to our base camp dejectedly and waited another three days for the weather to clear. By now we did not have any time to do the side valley exploration. We still had to find a way beyond Kunzang tso to Rongdu valley and we did not know what lay ahead. Kunzang tso lies at the head of the valley. It is a three-hour walk up to the distal shore of the lake from the camp in the grazing meadows (N34 27 260 E 078 08 720). The lake, 1.5 x 1 km in area, is circled by peaks on all sides and must be a pretty sight in summer. To the east are two lateral-most peaks of the central massif, and to the northwest a prominent col. On the distal side of the lake we saw a pika (a small mammal) emerging from its burrow and staggering, weak with hunger. The first intimation of summer was evident. On subsequent load ferries to this spot we found that a whole army of pikas had attacked the sugar bag and had recharged themselves for their summer activities. We went up a gully on the northeastern end, ignoring the col. This inspired decision was a wise one. After an hour’s climb, we reached a big glacial field. We called this the Stan Urkaan glacier (flying carpet – Ladakhi). It is about 2.5 km x 7.5 km and heavily crevassed in its lower portion. We pitched our camp on its left lateral moraine (N34 28 10.4, E 078 11 30.5, alt 5482 m). To the west are half a dozen peaks all more than 6000 m, begging to be climbed. To the northeast are peaks and an ice wall. And, straight ahead to the north is the col to Rongdu flanked by two 6000 m peaks. Plans for climbing in this area were made with great gusto. Three teams would attempt two peaks each.

The first peak, Jakzang (‘muhurat’ in Ladakhi) was just across the glacier from our camp. An hour-long glacier traverse under a watery moon brought us to the base of the peak. From then on, it was a steady climb up the north ridge with a gradient varying from 45 - 60°. We had to fix rope in two steep sections.

Bad weather prevented us from further climbing in this area. We decided to head for Rongdu. We crossed the glacier in a north easterly direction and camped below the Kunzang col (N34 27 97.7, E 078 03 42.7, alt 5445 m). That night was exceptionally bad with howling winds and a raging blizzard. Two and a half feet of snow fell overnight. The col crossing took us three hours and we rappelled down 100 m to the glacier on the leeward aspect of the Island peak. From there it was an easy snow trudge to the Shan Lungpa glacier which we had explored in 2013. Another half day’s walk across treacherous moraine brought us to the hot springs in upper Rongdu valley. From there, it was an easy walk to Rongdu village done in two stages with a camp at Doksa.

True to form, snowfall and grey skies persisted on our first two nights in Rongdu valley. On the third day, we woke up to a silvery dawn; its beauty enhanced by a cloudless blue sky. Snow-capped peaks of the Ladakh range glistened frostily in the far south. The tinkling of the stream and dripping sound of snow melt and the marrow-warming sunshine told us that the bad weather was behind us, and summer had truly arrived. Our spirits rose. Soaks in the hot springs relieved our aching muscles and soothed the nerves. Everything finally seemed idyllic. The big round rocks balancing on boulders spoke of stability and permanence.

But, the earth rocked again. This time it was a pan-India tremor. Maggi noodles, on which billions of Indian children had grown up, was withdrawn from the markets as some doubt were raised about its toxic lead content. Maggi noodles! This was a cruel tectonic shift. The paean to Maggi posted on Chang La was an ironic reminder as to how fickle life could be. We were still grappling with this life-truth as we headed for Delhi.

Conclusion :
The Kunzang exploration was in keeping with the ethos of the IAF Marking India Expeditions. This exploratory foray into the hitherto unknown Kunzang valley was a successful one insofar that we could explore and chart the whole valley and its major side valley. We were able to successfully summit three virgin peaks, all over 6000 m. We opened up a new route across a col to the Rongdu valley. The team spent a month above an altitude of 5030 m with no incident of AMS or any other ill health or accident. This is a reflection of the team’s fitness and meticulous planning. If weather had permitted we would have climbed another eight peaks in the course of the expedition. After all, something has to be left for future expeditions also!

Highlights
Exploration of the main Kunzang valley 44 km (altitude change :
3828 m to 5445 m)

Exploration of Tak Jaal Lungpa (rocky face river valley) and glacier to north of the main valley 18 km, (altitude change : 4675 m to 5535 m)

Tak Jaal (rocky face) 6123 m., vertical ascent 587 m.

Khemtses (the neighbour), 6038 m., vertical ascent 502 m.

Jakzang (muhurat), height – 6152 m, vertical ascent 970 m

Opened new route to Shalungpa glacier and Rongdu valley across Kunzang col, alt 5446 m.

Summary
Explorations and climbs in the Kungzang valley, East Karakorams by an IAF team.

Peaks climbed and Summitteers :

Tak Jaal (6123 m) 11 May 2015
Gp Capt V K Sashindran, Sgt G Pokhariya, Cpl Tara Singh, Cpl Jayvir Singh, S Thinless, Rigzing and Tsering Bhotiya.

Khemtses (6038m) 12 May 2015
Sqn Ldr Kevin Nishant, Cpl Mukul, Lac D Gonmei, NC(E) G Ali, Tashi Zangla, Ali and Dava

Jakzang (6152 m) 23 May 2015
Gp Capt V K Sashindran, Sgt G Pokhariya, Cpl Tara Singh, Cpl Jayvir Singh, Rigzing and Ali

Author
Gp Capt V K Sashindran is a physician in the Indian Air Force. His passions apart from his chosen field include trekking, climbing and philately. He has been trekking for 30 years. He has been involved in exploration of Arunachal Pradesh and now remote areas of east Karakorams. He collects stamps exclusively connected to mountains and he describes his interest as major obsession with minor objects.

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