Hidden Virgin Peaks in Zanskar

Exploration of Temasa Nala, Gompe Tokpo and Haptal Tokpo

Kimikazu Sakamoto

South Zanskar is an exciting mountain area with many unknown and untrodden peaks. In 2009, we explored Reru valley with support from Harish Kapadia of the Himalayan Club. I introduced many hidden virgin peaks in Reru valley area to climbers through the Himalayan Journal, Japanese Alpine News and the American Alpine Journal. In 2011, three climbing expeditions after reading my exploration report went to Reru valley¹ and made successful first ascents. In the summer of 2011, we went to Lenak nala and Giabul nala in Zanskar. Referring my exploration report, again three expedition teams went to Zanskar in the summer of 2012 to climb peaks which we had discovered in this area.

A Scottish team² climbed the virgin peak P. 6115 m (G22) in Namkha Tokpo of Giabul nala, the Japanese Alpine Club made the first ascent to P. 6165 m (L10) in the right branch of Lenak nala and Kyoto University Alpine Club climbed the virgin peak P. 6080 m (L13) in the left branch of Lenak nala.

Temasa nala is the northern valley next to Reru valley and has been used as a local route for villages of Padam and other villages in Zanskar to go to Udaipur via Kang la (5468 m) and Miyar nala, and also to go to Kilar via Poat la (5490 m). The route from Temasa nala to Miyar nala via Kang la has also been used by trekkers. But this route is not as popular with trekkers as the one from Padam to Darcha via Shingo la (5045 m), because it is quite a hard route.

In 2007, my friend, Satyabrata Dam of the Himalayan Club, explored Miyar nala and went down Temasa nala crossing Kang la and then went up the Poat la via Tidu glacier. He took exciting photographs of P. 6294 m (T4) and P. 5995 m (T6) in Tidu glacier, published in the American Alpine Journal, 2008. But, so far, I have not heard any news of these peaks being climbed.

Gompe Tokpo is the western valley from Padam. Though the beautiful panoramic view of the peaks surrounding Gompe Tokpo can be seen from Thonde and Karsha, no expedition team has ever entered the Gompe Tokpo.

Presuming that most of the mountains in Temasa nala and Gompe Tokpo area might still be virgin peaks, I contacted the Indian Mountaineering Foundation for information. On getting confirmation that there were no records of mountains climbed in this area, we decided to explore Temasa nala and Gompe Tokpo during 27 June - 2 August 2012.

Our exploration team consisted of four senior members, Mitsuhiko Okabe (71), Masaki Shibata (66), Toshihiro Katsumata (64) and me Kimikazu Sakamoto (72) as the leader.

Approach to Zanskar:
We arrived at Leh on 28 June 2012 and visited the old Palace and Tsemo Gompa in Leh for acclimatisation. On 2 July, seeing the beautiful Nun (7135 m) and Kun (7077 m) from Panikhar we drove to Padam along the Suru valley. At the junction with Shafat glacier, we could see Z1 (6161 m) of which Hokkaido University, Japan made the first ascent in 1980. We were thrilled to see the twin rock peaks of P. 5920 m at the top of Pensi glacier. We had lunch at Pensi la, looking at Z3 (6270 m) and other 6000 m peaks in Durung Drung glacier and reached Padam at around 5.00 p.m.

On 3 July, we rested at Padam for acclimatisation and visited Thonde Gompa and Zangla Chomo Gompa. We saw beautiful pink wild roses and a panoramic view of many peaks surrounding Gompe Tokpo. On 4 July, after visiting Karsha Gompa and Tsewang’s mother at Hongche village, we drove to Bardan and set up camp at Bardan Gompa school (3635 m). In the afternoon, two horsemen with ten horses joined us. We had a short meeting with all of our members and staff in the evening.

Exploration of Temasa Nala:
5 July 2012: This was the first day of our exploration in Temasa nala. From Bardan Gompa school, we could see the exciting east face of P. 6071 m (R1) glittering in the morning sunrise. We walked up the gentle green pasture hillside and crossed three small hills. Then we walked down to the right bank of Temasa nala. It was an open and wide valley about 200 ~ 300 m in width. On both the banks of the river were wide and flat meadows, suitable for grazing yaks. But the stream of Temasa nala was rapid and strong so it seemed impossible to cross even by riding on horses. Temasa nala welcomed us with beautiful flowers, like pink wild rose, blue poppy, yellow Hichu etc. We could see the rock mountain P. 6028 m (T12) on the right side and the north face of P. 6071 m (R1) on the left side. We came to a nice grassy meadow before the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo and decided to camp (3945 m) as we could get pure water.

6 July: We enjoyed a pleasant walk on the right bank of Temasa nala, looking up the north face of P. 6071 m (R1) and P. 6028 m (T12). P. 6294 m (T4) on Tidu glacier appeared behind the junction with Kangla glacier. The Google Earth 3D photo showed this mountain as a white snow mountain. But, the actual peak of P. 6294 m (T4) which we saw from Temasa nala was a pyramidal sharp peak mixed with rock and snow. We pitched our tents on a wonderful green pasture (4200 m) just after passing Kanjur which was located at the junction with Kangla glacier, with pure spring water. Many yaks were grazing and walking around our camp site.

7 July: We had one day of hiking to Tidu glacier. The glacier tongue seemed not far from our camp site, but actually it took three hours to reach. We climbed up to the centre of the moraine from the glacier tongue and walked around on the moraine avoiding many crevasses. It took a lot of time in the maze of moraine until we reached near the junction with Tsewang Tokpo which went up to the north glacier where P. 6107 m (T9) and P. 6022 m (T7) were located. On the left side of Tidu glacier, there were the attractive peaks P. 6294 m (T4) and P. 5995 m (T6). But both mountains looked difficult to climb.

Originally, we planned to go up Tsewang Tokpo to see P. 6107 m (T9) and P. 6022 m (T7) in three days of trekking, with food and camping equipment carried byhorses.However, we found that it was impossible for horses to carry up heavy loads into the Tsewang Tokpo, because it was steep with several waterfalls and the side slopes were also very steep and unstable.Therefore, we gave up the plan to explore Tsewang Tokpo.

8 July: Rest day. On the other side of our camp was Chhuralpachan nala, the big branch of Temasa nala, which goes up south to P. 6177 m (R6). There was a peak looking like a rock castle on the left side of Chhuralpachan nala. It was the junction peak which was located on the main ridge between P. 5947 m (R2) and P. 6036 m (R3). This peak has no height on the Indian official map but seemed to be around 5800 ~ 5900 m. I wonder if any young climbers will try to challenge this rock castle peak in the near future.

In the afternoon, our guide Tsewang and one horseman went to Kangla glacier to see how far horses could carry up three-days worth load to Kang la (5468 m). They reported that the highest point for their horse transportation would be up to about 4500 m where the glacier started.

Therefore we decided to go up Kangla glacier as far as possible in day’s hike, giving up the plan to set up camp at around 5000 m to Kang la.

9 July: As Katsumata had high fever, the other three members went up the right side mountain in Temasa nala to see the inside of Kangla glacier. We climbed up grassy slope along a faint yak trail. We saw the other side of Temasa nala and noted that Kangla glacier was big and long.

10 July: Three members and Tsewang, our guide left the camp site at 5.00 a.m. to hike to Kangla glacier. We crossed Temasa nala on horses but even in the early morning, the stream was very strong and rapid. There was a yak trail on the left side, a gentle slope of Kangla glacier, with several cairns up to about 4500 m where the glacier started. When we looked back the other side of Temasa nala, we could see P. 6107 m (T9) in Tsewang Tokpo and P. 5957 m (T10). When we walked up on the glacier over 4500 m, we could see the beautiful snow and rock mountain P. 5995 m (T3) on the right side and the top of Kangla glacier. I took several photographs of the mountains on the left side of Kangla glacier, but unfortunately we could not identify P. 5935 m (T2).

Tsewang and I turned back from about 5000 m where the glacier became flat, and Okabe and Shibata went up to about 5100 m. When we went down to the junction, Temasa nala had so much water with glacial melt and had become rapid and strong. We went up near the glacier tongue of Tidu glacier and crossed the rather shallow spot on horse. When we came back to the camp site, the rock castle on the left side of Chhuralpachan nala was glittering in the sunset.

11 July: We moved down to the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo for our exploration into Korlomshe Tokpo. We pitched our tents at a beautiful place known as Nyusri Yonga (4020 m) with pure water located on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo.

12 July: We walked up from our camp site on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo and crossed over the stream to the right side after walking up about 500 m. We climbed up the rather unstable slope with many rocks on the right side of the stream. The two branches came down from the rock mountain P. 6028 m (T12) at the corner (4195 m) of Korlomshe Tokpo. Our horseman carried up our equipment and three days’ food on horses but refused to go further, unloading all baggage at about 4500 m. The horseman’s excuse was that the rough stony slope was dangerous for his horses. We tried to persuade him to go up further at least up to 4800 ~ 5000 m near the top of Korlomshe Tokpo. But he refused and went down to the entrance of Korlomshe Tokpo, saying that he would return to fetch our baggage on 14 July. We were obliged to stay at 4525 m.

13 July: We went up Korlomshe Tokpo and found that the steep slope from our camp site was not so bad. We felt that all horses could have gone up safely. At the corner of Korlomshe Tokpo which turns to right, P. 5908 m (T11) was located on the right. On the left, the sharp rocky peak P. 5957 m (T10) rose, overwhelming us. The wide and big Korlomshe glacier turned to the right. The fair weather suddenly became cloudy and the mountains were covered with thick mist. Okabe and Shibata climbed to the upper glacier to take photographs of P. 6436 m (T13) which is the highest mountain in this area. From around 5100 m, they could take only one photograph of P. 6436 m (T13), the big rock face mountain. On our way back to our camp (4525 m), we found a good camping spot at around 4800 m, which is a potential base camp for P. 6436 m (T13). We returned to our camp site before it began to rain.

14 July: We walked down on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo, enjoying beautiful wild flowers including blue poppies.

15 July: We walked down to Bardan Gompa school, saying goodbye to Temasa nala. In the afternoon, we visited Bardan Gompa where a big black Tibetan dog welcomed us at the entrance.

16 July: We drove back to Padam. Our horsemen and ten horses would stay near Khapang Tokpo and join us at Ubarak on 17 July, as their horses could not spend the night in Padam.

Exploration of Gompe Tokpo:
17 July: We walked up the gentle slope from Padam to the entrance of Gompe Tokpo.

P. 6157 m (T20) which is the symbolic mountain of Padam, is on the right side of Gompe Tokpo. We turned right at the entrance of Gompe Tokpo to Ubarak. The traverse to Ubarak village was very beautiful, decorated with many wild flowers. We took a yak trail on the grassy slopes from Ubarak village and traversed to the left side until we reached the col on the ridge with the cairn, from where we could look down Gompe Tokpo. We went down the steep gully (40 ~50 m) from the col and then traversed the tricky unstable pile of big rocks to the right side for about 30 minutes. Then we entered into the branch of Gompe Tokpo. It was exhausting work. We climbed another steep gully. After crossing over several small hills, we finally reached the flat spot where the upper Gompe Tokpo started. We set up camp (4510 m) on the grassy flat meadow filled with blue poppies.

18 July: We walked up on the gentle moraine from our camp and reached the col with the big cairn which may have been built by village people pasturing yaks. After crossing over the col, Gompe Tokpo became wider and the glacier began to be surrounded with overwhelming peaks. It was the amphitheatre of Gompe glacier. On the left side of the glacier, there was the big twin rock peak P. 6431 m (T16). At the top of Gompe glacier, the slender rock pinnacle P. 6184 m (T18) stood. P. 6162 m (T19) was on the right side. We could not see P. 6157 m (T20) from that point. To the left of P. 6431 m (T16), peak T15 which has no official altitude on the map stood like Matterhorn in Zanskar. We wondered why no climber had come to Gompe Tokpo to climb these attractive peaks which could be seen easily from Padam and Thonde.

19 July: Our kitchen staff found a short route to Ubarak village. We traversed a rather steep slope piled with rocks. We visited a school teacher and gave her photographs which I had taken last year. Several small children came to our camp from the village and stayed with us until nightfall.

Exploration of Haptal Tokpo:

20 July: As we could not explore Tsewang Tokpo and we had used only one day in Kangla glacier instead of three, six free days were left before leaving for Leh. We decided to move to Chhogo Tokpo, the branch of Haptal Tokpo, to see the west side of P. 6157 m (T20), P. 6162 m (T19), P. 6184 m (T18), P. 6436 m (T13) and P. 6107 m (T9).

We traversed several pastures and villages of Razan, Trachhumik, Gomba and Taran, and went to Haptal Tokpo. This was a wide and open valley with a big grassy flat bank on both sides, where many yaks were grazing. We saw the big rock peak P. 5845 m (H17) standing firmly at the junction with Chhogo Tokpo. We walked along the water canal and climbed up the right side bank at the starting point of the water canal.

There was green flat meadow (3655 m) with many stone yak huts. We decided to pitch our tents, as there was pure spring water.

21 July: The current of Haptal Tokpo was strong and dangerous to cross even with horses. Therefore, we decided to abandon the plan to explore Chhogo Tokpo and to go up the main valley to Haptal glacier. After passing Tepuk Bhu, the junction with Chhogo Tokpo, the mountains with sharp rock pinnacles appeared on both sides of Haptal Tokpo. We could see P. 5740 m (H14) and P. 5840 m (H15) at the junction with Haptal glacier and Yurachuk glacier. We camped at the junction with Satachan Tokpo (3850 m).

22 July: Four members and our guide Tsewang left our camp site at 6.20 a.m. for the junction of Haptal glacier and Yurachuk glacier. We judged that it was dangerous to cross Haptal Tokpo to enter Yurachuk glacier, because the stream was too rapid. The glacier tongue of Yurachuk glacier was located near the valley junction, and Yurachuk glacier seemed very broken with many crevasses. We decided to go up Haptal glacier. Climbing the steep grassy slope on the right side, escaping several water falls to reach the plateau, we followed the faint yak trail on the right side of the Haptal glacier. At the corner of Haptal glacier which turned to left, there was the rocky peak P. 5775 m (H13). P. 6042 m (H3) on the right side branch was hidden by another mountain. Haptal glacier became wide and open on turning left. We could see P. 5730 m (H20) and P. 5878 m (H21) at the head of Haptal glacier.

When we looked back to Yurachuk glacier, we could see the beautiful white P. 5849 m (H16) on the left of Yurachuk glacier. We turned back from around 4500 m. Many yaks were grazing on both sides of Haptal Tokpo.

23 July: We tried to explore Satachan Tokpo to see P. 6085 m (H2) and P. 6042 m (H3). As I was not well I went as far as the water fall. Three members and Tsewang continued to climb up the left side slope. But, they encountered a gorge and were obliged to retreat without seeing P. 6085 m (H2) and P. 6042 m (H3).

24 July: It was possible for us to go down to Sani village in one day, but we preferred to spend another night in the quiet mountains. We had a farewell party in the evening, as our two horsemen and one kitchen staff would be going back to their village soon after reaching Sani village.

25 July: We went down to Sani village and pitched our tent at the camp site on Sani lake. We visited Sani Gompa which would have a festival soon. As village people continued practicing drums for the festival until midnight, we did not have enough sleep.

Epilogue:

In our 2012 exploration to Temasa nala, Gompe Tokpo and Haptal Tokpo, we could see and identify twenty-one virgin peaks as below.

We hope somebody will try to climb the virgin peaks which we found in this area.

Note
There are very few official names given to peaks in southern Zanskar. In order to avoid any confusion in identifying the mountains, we gave tentative mountain names like T1, T2, T3 to the peaks in Temasa nala and Gompe Tokpo and H1, H2, H3 to the peaks in Haptal Tokpo.

Summary:
Exploratory excursions in the Temasa nala, Gompe Tokpo and Haptal Tokpo valleys in the Zanskar Himalaya by a team from Japan in July 2012.

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