Future is here....

Harish Kapadia

Many times questions are asked about future of adventure. With all of the 8000-ers climbed, most of other high peaks climbed, difficult routes being achieved and new areas being explored- the scope for new adventure and climb is minimal. But not so in the Eastern Karakoram. Here the future is waiting for the climbers.

There are numerous valleys which have never been visited (Chamshen valley). Many of these contain long glaciers (North Shukpa Kunchang glacier). These are just few examples. But then there is along list of peaks that remain untrodden and routes that have never been challenged.

Today many of these valleys and peaks are not open to western climbers easily. But the situations may change, people may change and bureaucracy may change... like fickle weather of these valleys! But these peaks and valleys will always be there, waiting for explorers and climbers.

Hence we present a selection few peaks from the vast area. These are high and difficult peaks and new routes. A look at its locationsand brief history clarifies its remoteness. When the area is open, rather sooner than later, one can say that future is here and I had seen it in the pages of the Himalayan Journal..........

Hawk (6754 m) A high peak standing at the junction of the Sia la glacier with the Siachen glacier. Never been attempted. It was named by Workman expedition 1912, after its shape. Three faces of Hawk: 1. North face, 2. East face, 3. Southeast face.

North face

East face

Southeast face

Siachen Tower (c. 5900 m) In the lower quarter of the long Siachen glacier rises this magnificent pinnacle. It has not been attempted. Workman expedition (1912) named it but all the earlier expeditions, Dr. Tom Longstaff (1909), Prof. Giotto Dainelli (1929) noted this peak and published photographs in their books.

East face

Close up of east face

South face

Saltoro Kangri

Saltoro Kangri peaks (east face). The main peak at 7742 m is on left and the small pinnacle on top is the true summit. First ascent was made by the Japanese expedition in 1962. On right is the stupendous rock face of Saltoro Kangri II (7705 m) still unclimbed or attempted and possibly the highest unclimbed peak. (Upper Siachen)

K 12 (7428 m)

K 12 (7428 m) east face. The Japanese climbers who made the first assent in 1974 never returned back to the base camp. Another Japanese team in 1975 climbed the peak but could not locate their bodies. It has one more ascent from the east by the Indian army in 1984. (Middle Siachen)

High Towers: (Terong glacier and Nubra valley)

Rimo III (7233 m). The south face is unclimbed. It rises above the North Terong glacier. The peak was first climbed by Indian-British expedition in 1985 by the northeast face. The climbers crossed Ibex col to the east and climbed the summit.

West face of Rimo I (7385 m) from the North Terong glacier. This face remains unattempted though the first ascent
of the peak was made via the south face, by Indian-Japanese expedition in 1988.

West face of Saser Kangri I (7672 m). This face is always snow bound and dangerous. An Indian team (Border Security Force) camped at its foot in 1995 for an attempt. It lost 13 climbers in an avalanche due to bad weather.
It was one of the worst mountain disasters in the Indian Himalaya.

The shapely Karpo Kangri (6540 m) from the Argan glacier. This north face remains unclimbed.
The first ascent of the peak was made in 2005 by the Indian-American expedition from the south face.

Aq Tash (7016 m), southwest face seen from the Saser la trail. The Indian-Japanese team climbed two routes in 1993:
a mixed route up the face and by the south ridge after crossing the south col (right)

Teram Sher Plateau

Padmanabh (7030 m) west face. First ascent was made by the Indian - Japanese expedition in 2002
via southeast face from the Teram Sher Plateau. This west face is unclimbed.

Apasarasas peaks. Several peaks above 7000 m rise on this wall dividing the Teram Shehr glacier
and the Shaksgam valley. Peak I (7245 m) is the only peak climbed, first in 1976.

Laxmi (6850 m) east face seen from Padmanabh peak. The peak was named by the Workman expedition
in 1912 and has never been attempted. It rises above the Teram Shehr Plateau.

Singhi Kangri (7751 m) north face. The Japanese expedition (1976) trekked from Bilafond la in to the Siachen glacier, crossed Staghar pass into the Shaksgam valley and climbed this face. The peak divides the Siachen glacier and the Shaksgam valley.

The rock wall in the Central Rimo glacier valley. It lies on the route to Col Italia. Unclimbed and height c.5800 m.

The upper Siachen glacier has many high and some very challenging peaks

Twin peaks of Teram Kangri (I,7464 m, II, 7407 m) near Teram Shehr-Siachen glacier junction.
A Japanese expedition in 1975 made first ascents of both peaks.

The upper Siachen glacier

Ghent (7401 m) named by Workman expedition (1912) after ‘Treaty of Ghent’ which stopped hostilities between England and United States in 1814. Has been climbed from the west and this east face was never challenged.

A rock pinnacle near the Staghar pass crossed the Japanese team into the Shaksgam valley to make
the first ascent of Singhi Kangri. Not been climbed. Approximate height c. 6000 m.

A challenging rock peak near Bilafond la, Siachen glacier. Approximate height c. 6100 m.

Sia Kangri II (7092 m), east face falling to the Siachen glacier. The peak has not been climbed.