A JOURNEY INTO THE NORTHERN FRINGE OF THE NANDA DEVI BIOSPHERE RESERVE

The First Ascent of Lampak I (6325 m) and an Ascent of Lampak II (6181 m)¹

Dr. P. M. DAS

A team of 11 members from the Police Department, departed from Patiala for the Kalla Bank glacier on 24 May, 2003. The team consisted of Dr P.M.Das, (leader), Dr. Haripal Sidhu (dy.leader), Vinod Chopra (dy.leader), Ramesh Sharma, Inder Kumar, Nari Dhami, Kulwinder Kumar, Mohan Lal, Palwinder Singh, Gurbachan Singh and Anand Singh.

Base camp was established at 4700 m and occupied on 30 May after a two-day march from the roadhead at Juma... On 31 May the route to Camp 1 (a common camp for both Lampak I and Lampak II) was opened, up the Kalla Bank glacier and on 1 June we did a load ferry Various route options for attempting Lampak I were studied at C1, especially so an attempt from the ridge joining it with Lampak II from the NW but this was eventually rejected being dangerously corniced. The west wall of Lampak I dominated all features appearing concave and overhanging. More like a serpent's head. Needless to say the peak was awe-inspiring.

On 2 June, the HAPs and some members conducted another load ferry to Camp 1 while others spent time acclimatising were taken up by me above the base camp on the south bank of the glacier to a height of 4923 m from where excellent views could be got of the mountains across. A possible route on Kunti Bhannar (5895 m) from the connecting ridge with Lampak II from its NW for a future climb.

 

Photos 25 to 30 Fold-out 3

In the evening it was decided that 7 climbers along with 3 HAPs were to occupy Camp 1 the next day and then try for the summit with one porter in assistance. Those who were to stay back at base are the admn party composed of Dr. Haripal Sidhu, Ramesh Sharma, Sukhchain Singh, Vinod Chopra and the unfortunate Gurbachan Singh who had a stomach ailment.

On 3 June, I moved up along with the team and occupied our Camp 1. The camp was located at 5127 m (GPS reading) and afforded a superb view of the route up Lampak II across the moraine and up scree slopes to a plateau above the hanging glaciers descending from the massif.

Above that it is a fairly straightforward though long snow climb to the corniced summit of Lampak II. On 4 June, the climb up the loose rocks took four and half hours and because of the early season we encountered hard snow and some ice in patches above it. The scree slope made us grateful for our helmets and Camp 2 was reached after a climb of 500 m just as a blizzard began blowing. The temperature dropped and the tents were set up with some difficulty. The snowfall eventually stopped at 5.30 p.m. The GPS reading of this camp was 5638 m.

By 6.00 p.m. it began snowing again. We estimated that there was a vertical climb of 532 m to the summit. This is a reasonable climb from an assault camp but Nari and two others were not in perfect form. Therefore on 5 June we were able to leave for the summit rather late, at 8 a.m. - 7 climbers and one HAP. There were excellent views on the way of Nanda Devi, Dunagiri, Purbi Dunagiri, Changabang, Kalanka. Crampons were strapped on at 5790 m and what followed was a long plod up a featureless snow slope of approximately 40 to 50 degrees. By 1.30 p.m. the weather had packed up again and there was a white-out. I realised that the summit was near and much to the disappointment of being so near and yet so far, I ordered a retreat in snowfall and poor visibility. We returned to camp late afternoon. Magically, the weather cleared in the evening and there was sunshine at 7.00 p.m.

Despite entreaties of the members for another attempt on the next day i.e. 6 June, I declared that the entire team would rest and organised medication for various ailing members.

The summit of Lampak II (6181 m), 7 June:

We leave camp at 5.00 a.m. after waking up at 2.00 a.m. and making preparations. As Nari lead into the early morning glow, there was a chilling wind which had reduced the temperature and all climbers were cold. At times my finger tips went numb and I had to stop and rewarm my hands with the help of Anand Singh who rubbed them over my mittens. Nari had been leading on the first rope being followed by Inder Kumar, Palwinder, Kulwinder, while I lead the second rope bringing up Mohan Lal, Anand Singh and the HAP Sangram. Gradually all 8 of us climbed up the snow slopes to the crampon point. We made rapid progress beyond the two crevasses and up the final slopes where we had laboured two days ago. The chilling winds had now miraculously stopped as we negotiated the steeper slopes above an ice wall dropping down to the Kalla Bank glacier to the left.

After crossing the point from where we had returned two days earlier, we move on belays for three rope lengths and then fixed one more climbing rope in view of the corniced edge. Then on to the true summit of the peak for the summit rituals as the clouds close in. The time was 11.27 a.m. The GPS with me on top read 6258 m (20,526 ft), whereas the map says the height of the peak is 6181 m (20,280 ft).

We descended cautiously, arriving at Camp 2 which was wound up after a meal. In the fading light of the day we got back to Camp 1 at 8.00 p.m. 8 June was a day of celebrations and rest at the base camp.

Ascent of Lampak I (6325 m), 13 June:

W. H. Murray in his article 'Scottish Kumaon Expedition' (page 45) in H.J. Vol 16 observed: 'For just one minute the summit clouds swirled aside, giving us a clear view of the Lampak 20,000-footers, 6 miles north-east. We saw no attempt was possible by their southwest faces. They presented iced walls like the north face of the Matterhorn, only considerably higher'.

We decided that a smaller party of experienced climbers would attempt Lampak I. On 9 June, Nari, Inder Kumar, HAP Sangram moved up to Camp 1 for route-opening to Camp 2 the following day Nari's party found a site on a saddle on the spur extending south from Lampak 1 for our Camp 2 at a height of 5617 m. There was space only for two small tents on the saddle.

On 10 June, along with Mohan Lal, Anand Singh, HAP Nand Singh, I reoccupied Camp 1. Kulwinder Singh, Gurbachan Singh along with HAP Megh Singh moved up at short notice to Camp 1 carrying climbing and technical equipment and tents and descended to the base.

From the saddle we were to tackle the rock buttress of the peak which would involve high-grade rock climbing and fixing of ropes, a chimney, an over-hang, a traverse and loose schist rock. Thereafter, we intended a bold route up an ice-ramp onto the southeastern slopes of the mountain and up very steep snow and ice over a long climb of over 550 m vertical height.

On the far side of the mountain below Camp 2 was a steep drop of 450 m into the upper neve slopes draining southeast to join the east-west flowing glacial system, further south. It looked attractive with its green glacial tarns. The spur from the mountain did not drop continuously to our Camp 2. In fact the scree and schist formed a mound from the camp towards the spur. A climber would have to surmount this obstacle by first reaching its top and then descending to its base where there was a notch. Thereafter the true rock spur and buttress runs up from the south towards the top. This configuration including the tarns on the far side would make an interesting subject of study to a glaciologist and in the absence of one in the team, one could only hazard a guess that there had been many changes to the head wall of the Kalla Bank basin over the years and we were witness to some of the effects on Lampak I as well as to the crest of the ridge running down to the southern rim of the Kalla Bank.

Across the southern end of the saddle on which Camp 2 was placed, was a rocky gendarme calling for interesting rock climbing. To the right of the southern slopes of Lampak I was a steep ridge connecting with Peak 6504 m (Peak 21,340 ft as per the S.O.I map) locally named 'Monal' with ice-runnels and striations along its steep rock approaches but with a perfect col in-between. North of this col is the Lampak glacier running west-east and the broad Siruanch glacier flowing southward. A beautiful symmetrical ice and snow peak joined by a ridge to 'Monal' seemed to be one of the unclimbed high peaks of the area. Thus our mountain was hemmed in on the south by the unclimbed Peak 6504 m and on the left i.e. the north, by Kunti Bhannar and Lampak II peaks.

Nari and I discussed the route and though it would be hard work, seemed to be our only hope of climbing the mountain. On 11 and 12 June Nari, assisted by Inder and HAP Nandan spent a hard time opening the route above Camp 2 on Lampak I along the line discussed earlier. In all she fixed a nylon line of 555 m on the rock and 380 m of our climbing ropes on the ice and snow, anchoring it with snow-stakes and ice pitons.

There was a crisis when the route opening team announced that there was shortage of snow-stakes but Nari volunteered to go down herself to Camp 1 to get more for the summit push. Early morning of 13 June found Nari back with Anand Singh and Sangram Singh in support by 5.00 a.m. Soon she, Inder Kumar and HAP Sangram Singh moved up the mountain while Mohan Lal and I followed. Familiar with the route they were faster while Mohan Lal and I negotiated the rock buttress in 4 hours - first descending the crumbling mound of rock onto the notch in the ridge and then ascending more stable rock which been was fixed with a red nylon line at crucial sections. At the base of the traverse, traces of an earlier expedition were noticed - rusted rock pitons, a carabiner and old style hemp ropes and slings - but bleached and frayed by the elements - indicating a serious attempt on the peak. (There is little on record but from the Garpag villagers we learnt that there had been an abortive attempt in the 1960's).

Our walkie-talkie sets had stopped functioning owing to weak batteries but those in Camp 1 including Vinod Chopra, were able to spot Mohan Lal and me as we strapped on our crampons and begin ascending the fixed rope on the ice ramp at 10.30 a.m. We followed Inder Kumar who was directly ahead of us.

The slopes on the southern side were initially between 50 to 60 degrees. In between there were two very steep ice patches, one of 15 m at 70 degrees punctuated with a crevasse and a second patch of 10 m of even steeper and harder ice where I was happy to rely on the jumar. Thereafter, the slopes were angled at between 60 to 70 degrees and three more climbing ropes were fixed. As I moved my tired frame up the slopes, it was with relief that I find that they gradually eased off and that the summit was within grasp. Circumventing a bergschrund we moved up onto the final slopes of the mountain. The summit cone was steep at 50 to 60 degrees. Eventually all five of us were on the summit by 4.30 p.m.

There is a sense of satisfaction in having completed a hard climb. After 15 minutes for the summit rituals, the descent begins. The descent is enlivened when one of the abseil anchors comes off while I am descending close to the summit. A quick self - arrest on the hard snow prevents what could have been a disaster. Nari's yell to me to check all anchor points before abseiling down brings us out of the euphoria of reaching the summit and to the task of getting down safely.

We reached the rock traverse point just as darkness sets in. Fortunately there was moonlight and a full moon due on the next day. With the added light of head - torches and hot coffee which our two faithful HAPs, Megh Singh and Raghu had brought up on the rocks, we are eventually able to climb back safely to the assault camp by midnight.

On the next day (14 June) the fixed ropes, Camp 2 and Camp 1 were wound up and we reached base to a rousing welcome from the rest of the members. Base camp was cleared on 16 June and formalities completed at Joshimath and Uttarkashi by 2021 June. We returned to our headquarters just in time before our leave expired.

A total of 1900 m of rope was fixed on the mountain of which 555 m were anchored on the rock section and 1345 m were fixed on the snow and ice. However all anchor points, snow stakes and pitons - were removed and the mountain was cleared up. Only one length of red colored nylon rope along with a rock piton was left affixed on the rock portion, to symbolize our ascent of the unclimbed peak.

A Mountain Scholarship Announced

We visited Lata village at the invitation of HAPs - namely - Nandan Singh, Raghbir Singh, Megh Singh, Sangram Singh (summiteer of both peaks) who hailed from this village. We paid obeisance at the historic Nanda Devi temple and thereafter on behalf of the PPASC, I announced a recurring mountain scholarship for one child of a high altitude porter on an annual basis to be specifically alloted by the Village Pradhan and the Panchayat. For this a corpus of Rs. 10,000- was earmarked and deposited in a nationalised bank. This was done in recognition of the contribution of our HAPs to the success of the expedition.

Conclusion and Recommendations

The scope of this expedition - which was fully attained - was the first ascent of a technically difficult six thousand metre mountain accomplished by a totally Indian team and a mix of experienced and novice climbers, prior to which another six thousander was climbed in the same glacier as a warm-up climb.

The exploration of this region beyond the limits of our expedition would be rewarding if a small team could descend to the subsidiary glacier beyond the saddle on which our Camp 2 of Lampak I was placed. It appeared to me that there is a possible route down the moraine which can lead into the Bagini glacier. The team could then go down the Dunagiri gad, cross the Kanari khal to the north and descend to Garpak village, thereby completing a round trip.

Another challenging piece of exploration would be to ascend the col connecting Lampak I with Pk 6504 m and descend towards the Siruanch and Lampak glaciers and exit the region via the north into the Girthi ganga.

Lastly, the ascents of the unclimbed Peaks 6267 m and Peaks 6635 m would make excellent alpine style climbing and they could be approached by the upper Bagini glacier or the Siruanch glacier to the north.

SUMMARY

First ascent of Lampak I by Dr P.M.Das, Inder Kumar, Nari Dhami and Sangram Singh (porter).

Ascent of Lampak II by Dr P.M.Das, Inder Kumar, Nari Dhami, Mohan Lal, Palwinder Singh, Kulwinder Kumar, Anand Singh and Sangram Singh (porter).

Brief details of the route followed:

Patiala to Joshimath (Auli) - By road - Halt 2 nights in Auli for acclimatisation and climbs to neighbouring heights. Auli to Juma (roadhead) - March to Garpag village (3100 m) via village Ruing - Garpag to Kalla Kharak (3500 m) - Kalla Kharak to base camp (4700 m) - common Camp 1 (5127 m) for both Lampak I and Lampak II peaks — Camp 2 (5638 m) of Lampak II - Summit of Lampak II (6181 m) - Camp 1 - base camp for rest - Camp 1 reoccupied — Camp 2 of Lampak I - Summit of Lampak I (6325 m) - base camp - Joshimath - Uttarkashi - Patiala.

References

1. Survey of India Map No.53 N/NE (Scale 1 : 126,720) and S.O.I. map in scale 2 cm : 1 km.
2. Leader's Report on Expedition to Lampak I and Lampak II, 2001 organised by Howrah District Mountaineers and Trekkers' Association. HRBC Housing Estate, Flat 2, Block-C, Type-IV Belepole, Howrah 711104 Swaraj Ghosh. (IMF records).
3. H.J Vol. XVI 'Scottish Kumaon Expedition' by W.H.Murray.
4. H.J Vol.47 Expeditions and Notes. 'The Kalla Bank Expedition, 1990' by Ajay Tambe. (See note)
5. H.J Vol. XXXIII 'The Ascent of Uja Tirche, 1974', by Shyamal Chakraborty.
6. H.J Vol..41 - 'Uja Tirche, 1984', by Ajit Shelat.
7. Exploring the Hidden Himalaya by Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia.
8. H.J Vol. 45 :'In Famous Foot Steps', by Harish Kapadia.
9. Report of the North Garhwal High Altitude Trek : May-June 1977. Prepared by the leader Subhash Desai. (IMF records)
10. Leader's Report on Uja Tirche expedition - 1977. Organised by : Himalayan Association, Calcutta. (IMF records)

 

Note on the nomenclature, heights of the peaks and a critique of some previous reports to this area :

1. While on expedition and in preparing this report I have consulted Survey of India Map No. 53 N/NE in the scale 1 : 126,720 and the topographical sheet of the Survey of India in the scale 2 cm : 1 km. The Survey of India which senior mountaineers of India consider the ultimate authority, mentions Lampak II (6181 m) as Lampak (20,280 ft) and Peak 20,750 ft is unnamed (Lampak I, 6325 m). The other nomenclature found in records is Lampak North for Lampak II and Lampak South for Lampak I.
   However the height of the two peaks and the names Lampak I and Lampak II are recorded in this report as per convention in The Himalayan Journal and the map on page 40 of the book Exploring the Hidden Himalaya by Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia. This nomenclature has been used by other expeditions to this area as well as to Uja Tirche.
2. I had freely utilised the services of the latest model receiver Global Positioning System but must caution that this may not record the accurate heights since GPS readings are not pin-pointedly accurate.
3. A reading of the article 'The Kalla Bank Expedition,1990' by Ajay Tambe in H.J. Vol 47 (pages 176-181) generated much confusion in our minds : did we scale Pk 6504 m or Pk 6325 m ? Subsequently I resorted to a series of consultations with geographers and senior mountaineers to get my doubts resolved. The conclusion arrived at was that we were on Lampak I (6325 m) and the peaks have been misidentified by Tambe. To spell out briefly : the photo on page 178 is the very peak we call Lampak I (6325 m) and which we have climbed on 13 June, 2003. He captions it as Pk 6504 m and the photo is credited to A.C.Shelat. Similarly in the panorama photo taken by A.C.Shelat, the same peak appears on the extreme left and appears wrongly identified. This is actually Lampak I. What is not identified behind it is Pk 6504 m (referred to as 'Monal' by locals). The peak directly behind 'Monal' i.e. to its south, is Pk 6257 m (20,560 ft), and the ridge follows further southward to Pk 6657 m (21,770 ft); the latter two peaks clearly draining into the Bagini glacier. Moreover, text by Tambe on page 179 is confusing and states : 'The col itself is located above an icefall to the north at the end of the Kalla Bank. Lampak I could possibly also be approached from the same col along its southeast ridge, the main danger being that of hanging glaciers near its top. Another approach to Lampak I may be by approaching its NW ridge close to where it joins with Lampak II's SE ridge. The route is considerably longer and the approach to the ridge entails negotiating a series of icefalls and constant danger of avalanches from the slopes of themountain above.' The matter is further complicated since there is not a single photo of his Lampak I in his article and his team, as he admits, failed to reach the summit of Lampak II.
   The description on page 179 is a non sequitur since there is no other peak between Lampak I and Lampak II. Our visual examination revealed a sharp snow/ice arete up from the col in between and an attempt up this ridge from the north was ruled out. This enigma/ contradiction posed by Ajay Tambe occurs in hurried expeditions when, as the one recorded in H.J. vol 47, they cleared off from the mountain after a brief visit to the area.
   Ironically, A.C. Shelat correctly names and identifies the peaks of the Lampak group in an earlier article inthe Himalayan Journal (H.J. 41). This is essentially a report of an expedition sponsored by The Himalayan Club, of an ascent of Uja Tirche and the panorama is of the Lampak ridge rising across the Lampak glacier. Here he marks the only three peaks existing from south to north : i.e. Lampak South (6325 m), Lampak (6181 m) and Kunti Bhannar (5895 m). This substantiates the conclusions and claims made in my report below.
   The report of Swaraj Ghosh in his 'Leader's Report on the Expedition to Lampak I and Lampak II, 2001' (IMF records) also gives a true description of the configuration of the ridges connecting Lampak II with Lampak I.

 

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