EXPEDITION AND NOTES

1. GUICHA LA AND TOWARDS ZEMU GAP
2. LESSER KNOWN SHERPAS
3. LHOTSE SOUTH WALL IN WINTER AGAIN
4. JEWEL SEEKERS SYDNEY AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION, 2003
5. MERU SHARK'S FIN, 2003
6. NAG TIBBA, THE HONEST SERPENT
7. TREK TO TARAG TAL
8. THE LORD'S OWN COUNTRY
9. THALAY SAGAR — NE FACE/ SE RIDGE
10. AN EXCURSION TO CHURDHAR
11. ASCENT OF GYA
12. WOMEN'S EXPEDITION TO ARGAN KANGRI, 2003
13. EXPEDITION TO KUN
14. THE FIRST ASCENT OF HUNGCHI

 

 

 

‘TWO SHERPAS ARE LOOKING FOR YOU' whispered the hotel manager. Lhatoo Dorjee was correct, when he indicated I only had to tell the Sherpas where and when to meet and they would do the rest. Quietly extricating myself from the penultimate talk of the last session of the Genetics meeting organised by Vidya in Pelling, a town near Pemyantse in Sikkim, I left the conference hall and found Pemba and Mingma together with two backpacks and a bulging kit bag containing the common gear. It seemed considerably larger than when I had left it with them in Darjeeling. 'Can we leave now', asked Mingma, the more outspoken, and slightly younger of the two. I had planned to leave the next day but the thought of getting into the hills was so appealing that at dusk we were in Yoksum at the start of the trek to the Guicha la, eating momos.

The planning for the trip had been uncertain to the very end. An e-mail and phone call to Harish Kapadia had helped me get in touch with Dorjee Lhatoo in Darjeeling, and he had simply indicated that I should get to Darjeeling and would get me in touch with a Sherpa. The plan was finalised over the course of a morning. Over a wonderful breakfast Dorjee told me about his treks around Kangchenjunga and shortly thereafter he introduced me to Pemba and Mingma. In a couple of hours I had left them with most of the gear and instructions to get a few kilos of tsampa and some kerosene and meet on the 8 December in Pelling.

We planned to have a look at the valley on the far side of the Guicha la, and get a closer look at the Zemu gap. The Zemu gap is a 5861 m low depression in the ridge joining Kangchenjunga to Simvu in the east. In doing so it offers a potential route connecting the Zemu glacier with the trekking route from Dzongri to the Guicha la. In 1936 Tilman had unsuccessfully tried this route from south to north. The climbing up to the Zemu gap was too demanding for his lightly equipped party but subsequently, in 1938 he did the first, and to my knowledge only traverse of this route, beginning at the Zemu glacier and abseiling down the steep southern decent from the Zemu gap.

The first part of the trek, till the Guicha la consisted of walking between conveniently located huts. We started after breakfast, walking till late afternoon. This left the evening free to walk around and eat an enormous meal, sometimes sharing food with the caretakers of the huts who inevitably were friends of Pemba and Mingma. Despite the drafts through cracks in the walls, the smoky fires and the cramped dark atmosphere the caretakers were always full of smiles.

We began from Yoksum after buying a couple of litres of extra kerosene, some rice, sugar and tea, and hiring one porter for the first three days. Unseasonably bad weather for early December accompanied us from Yoksum to Tsoka and the next day to Dzongri. The conversion of this area into a sanctuary has allowed the vegetation to remain largely intact and below Dzongri the path winds through wonderful forests. Near Yoksum it is almost tropical in nature and as one moves higher it becomes more alpine in nature. Between Tsoka and Dzongri we first passed under enormous moss covered pine and then wound our way up snow covered ground which proved to be easier to cover in its frozen state than the slush it had turned to on our return. Snow covered Dzongri and its surroundings and low clouds hung all around. My fancy new MSR whisperlite multifuel stove was finding what we believed to be kerosene to be unpalatable. It was indeed much quieter than my old XGK expedition stove whose roar required people in the neighbourhood to raise their voices in order to be heard. However it refused to produce a sustained hot flame and instead every few minutes a high sooty kerosene fire would blacken rather than heat the pot. Only cleaning the jet every couple of minutes allowed us to do any cooking whatsoever. We first tried swearing at and vigorous shaking the stove, and determined these had no long term effect on its behaviour. Subsequently it was disassembled, cleaned thoroughly, and fed kerosene from another source. Fortunately it worked in a grudging manner for the remainder of the trip. It soon became apparent that this was a relatively democratic trip. Rather than survive on dried food such as tsampa which formed the basis for explorers of the previous century (as I had planned) we feasted on rice and yak meat stews cooked on a pressure cooker. The mysterious increase in size of my kit-bag became evident: my frugal selection of climbing gear (an 8 mm line, a slings and carabiners, ice axe and crampons) had been supplemented by 100 m of assorted ropes a bunch of ice screws and more. These, together with a hot water bottle, went back with the porter, the next day, from Tashiding which we reached at noon. Small gaps in the clouds gave us glimpses of Pandim and the three of us walked up to Sumito lake which we reached shortly before three.

The hut at Sumito lake had half a roof, and just before sunset the sky cleared giving us a wonderful view. Pemba suggested a scramble up the hill to the far side of the lake. I missed the jump across the stream and with a wet running shoe panted after Sherpas who bounded up to the crest. They caught the sunset from the ridge, I was happy enough with the views slightly later. We slid down the heather slopes in the dark. The next day began at 3. Pemba produced tea for us and two trekkers who were also headed for the Guicha la, and at 4 we were off. We passed a frozen landscape heading on the east bank of the glacier past Pandim (with a good view of what was presumably the gully attempted by Tilman which reaches the ridge north of Pandim), and towards the obvious pass. The regular trekking guides had festooned two 'false' passes with the required prayer flags and cairns allowing for a shorter day in the presence of gullible or tired tourists. The two trekkers valiantly continued much to the chagrin of their guide who left their backpack behind at the second false pass. Pemba bounded retrieving it with a smile making the guide yet sulkier. We spent a lovely half hour at the windy Guicha la. The trekkers returned, and after stashing some extra gear in the rocks, we put on boots and gaiters and waded down the knee-deep slopes on the far side of the Guicha la. The slopes on the northern side consisted of boulders partly covered by snow making for hard going, and easy heather slopes. We made camp (a tiny two man tent and a tarp) near a convenient boulder, and while food was being made I roamed around the hillside. The Talung glacier, old and covered with mud, rocks and debris curved past. It had carved a trough with steep walls a couple of hundred metres deep and was half a kilometre wide. The ridge south from southernmost summit to Talung (and thence to Kabru) formed a north- south wall and the ridge to the east progressed to the Zemu gap and Simvu. We were separated from the latter by a subsidiary spur and the Tongshiong glacier (out of sight).

We made two trips from this camp. One to the ridge at the far end of the glacier near Guicha peak, and the other to the pass above the Tongshiong glacier for the view of Zemu gap. Setting out after breakfast we reached the base of the long, twisty couloir which winds its way between Guicha peak and a subsidiary spur to its west. Prudence dictated taking the scree slopes on the subsidiary spur, with Pemba bounding up the occasional chimney when he was bored. A large cairn marked the exit to the top of the spur. At around lunchtime we put on crampons and tied in. We followed the gentle snow covered crest upwards to the main ridge. It steepened, and with due respect of the cornice, we continued up. Balancing up the slope as it got steeper I marvelled at my luck in being with Pemba and Mingma who were clearly enjoying themselves as much as I was. By two thirty we were in the shadows of Guicha peak and I suggested turning back, but Pemba suggested continuing. Changing leads on lovely steep snow slopes interspersed with rocks we were just below the ridge soon after 3. Apart from a few sips of water and slowed only by my pace we had been going since breakfast, and after the obligatory photographs it was time to turn back. Pemba bounded down the steep slope with skill, till one of his crampons broke. Only his skill prevented what could have been a nasty fall and we more cautiously belayed down. Being late and tired the couloir looked inviting and taking it we reached the scree at its base just before sunset. The trudge through the snow- covered rocks was tiring and after some detours we found our campsite at 9 p.m. Pemba and Mingma somehow found the energy to cook the usual wonderful meal together with plenty of warm drinking water. With full stomachs we fell asleep.

The next day over an early breakfast Pemba and Mingma dug out a pair of pliers, screwdriver and together with bits of hardware fixed the crampon which had lost a couple of nuts and bolts. I patched a torn gaiter with duct tape. The second trip, to get a good view of the Zemu gap was less strenuous. A steep slope leads down to the Talung glacier which is about a kilometre wide. The south facing heather slopes were followed by steep scree and rotten rock till perched on the ridge we were able to take a good look at the Tongshiong glacier and the steep hanging glaciers on the Zemu gap. By keeping to the left (west) of the obvious easternmost pass the stone fall can be avoided. The Zemu gap looks challenging. Perhaps a couple of weeks acclimatisation on the peaks near Guicha followed by a hard push up the Zemu gap would allow the reversal of Tilman's crossing and an exit via the Zemu glacier. At any rate it would be a very enjoyable way to spend a month in Sikkim. It would also be away from the tourist route to the Guicha la which would be much more crowded in the warmer season.

The return trip was interspersed by a scramble up the scree ridge to the east of the Tashiding which resembled Tryfan and the Bristly ridge without tourists. From Yoksum, it was only about 14 hours by jeep and air to Mumbai. Thanks to Harish and Dorjee Lhatoo I had been able to meet Pemba and Mingma and take a look around the region between the Guicha la and Zemu glacier.

Summary: A trek to Guicha la and towards the Zemu gap in winter 2003.

 

 

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THE WORD SHERPAS (Shar-Pa) means easterner. Originally the Sherpas were the settlers of eastern Tibet before moving to Darjeeling and the highlands of eastern Nepal, particularly the Solu Khumbu (shar-khumbu) district. They resemble the Mongoloid race and their language is mixed Tibeto — Burmese . Often they are mistaken as Bhotias (the word 'Bhot' is used for Tibet), but a Sherpa likes to be identified as a Sherpa only, different and superior in climbing a mountain. Sherpas are Buddhist though their marriage with westerners and outside the Sherpa community are quite prevalent. Amongst the Sherpas living deep in the mountains, marriage is more of a convenience to help each other in difficult and uncomfortable living conditions. Polyandry or polygamy amongst such Sherpas is not unheard of even in recent times. Unlike Bhotias, they are not very good investors but a bit of fun on the high slopes of the icy mountains always excites them.

For a long time, Sherpas had been accompanying the survey missions, intelligence teams across the mountain passes and foreign expeditions to the Himalaya on the Tibet and Nepal side particularly, but it was Tenzing's ascent of Everest on 29 May 1953 that gave the Sherpas a world-wide image of natural mountain climbers. Their courage, skills and easiness in the higher altitudes made them the accepted choice of helpers that one would need in the mountains. They understood the strength of their acclimatised physical state, that exhibited easiness compared to others venturing into the mountains. For quite some time they accepted the task of being high altitude load carriers but other options become clearer after Tenzing set his foot on the Everest along with Hillary, who was a climbing member of the British team. Some of the daring ones adopted climbing and became climbing helpers instead of HAPs only. A total revolution in mountain climbing started since then. Expeditions succeeded, unknown peaks were climbed, difficult passes were crossed, uncharted routes were frequented. Mountain climbing or mountaineering became popular sport.

Contrary to their courage and toughness, they are highly superstitious and they believe in sorcery too. Ang Girmi was our Sherpa Sirdar in the 1985 army expedition to Everest. He carried a bottle of rum, butter and some sweets and placed these around Camp 3 near the Yellow Band. He explained that the ghost of an unknown old Sherpa, killed in accident below the South Col, used to appear between Camp 2 and South Col. This 'soul' had saved a number of lives while they were descending down from the South Col. His help was needed by Everest seekers particularly after the dark.

A resume of nine Sherpas with excellent climbing capabilities, but not very well known, is given below. I call them the 'Lesser Known Sherpas'.

Dawa Thondup

Dawa Thondup was an old Sherpa. He had been on Nilkantha and he had the heart of lion. He was a young porter on Everest in 1933 and one of the heroic Sherpas who came down from the Silver Saddle on Nanga Parbat in the storm which spelt tragedy to Willi Merkl's 1934 expedition. He was one of two Sherpas who accompanied John Hunt's Peak 36 (later Saltoro Kangri) expedition to the Karakoram in 1935, as well as joining him on two expeditions and several treks in the Sikkim Himalaya. He also did well with the Swiss on Everest in 1952.

John Hunt had specially asked for Dawa to be included in the Sherpa team. At the age of 48, he was by far the oldest member of the 1953 expedition, and the doctor who checked his health before he was selected said he should not go beyond 20,000 ft. However, once on the mountain, he soon showed he had no intention of abiding by the doctor's ruling and could carry his load as easily as younger and stronger Sherpas. At his own request, he was included in the party for the first lift of stores to the South Col, but not without some trepidation and only after close consultation with Tenzing. In the event, not only did Dawa Thondup carry to the South Col without any ill effects, but he proved himself an obvious choice for a subsequent lift there. This feat, which he again achieved with apparent ease, must be one of the more remarkable high - altitude performances for one of his age.

John and Joy Hunt, and Alfred Gregory had the pleasure of his company again when, aged 68, Dawa accompanied them on a trek from Khumbu to Darjeeling for the International Mountaineering meet in 1973 at the HMI. He was a delightful companion.

Phu Dorji

Phu Dorji was one of the strongest young Sherpas of 1953 team. Pigtailed and cheerful, he personified all that was best of the local Khumbu Sherpas carrying his load with apparent ease to the South Col. He was to take part in three further Everest expeditions. With the Americans he carried twice to the South Col and with the Indian expedition of 1965 he led the support team of Sherpas, which carried to the highest camp, estimated at 8500 m from which the first party, Nawang Gombu and A. S. Cheema, reached the summit. While the second and third pairs went to the top, Phu Dorji, resting at base camp, received a radio call to tell him that he could be on the fourth summit party on reaching the last camp at nearly 8530 m next day. From here, with Rawat and Ahluwalia, he climbed to the summit on 29 May, 12 years to the day after Hillary and Tenzing. From base camp to the summit in four days was a remarkable achievement.

Phu Dorji returned for the fourth and last time to Everest with the Japanese expedition in 1969-70, this time as Sirdar. Sadly he was killed in an accident in the icefall. So ended the life of an outstanding Sherpa, whose record on Everest has been insufficiently recognised.

Dawa Tenzing

Dawa Tenzing was the deputy Sirdar of the 1953 Sherpa team. He was in many ways a contrast of Tenzing Norgay, to whom he was not related. A strong, tall Sherpa from Khumjung village in the Khumbu, he was pigtailed and had a distinct 'presence', together with a good sense of humour. A veteran of many expeditions including several with Eric Shipton and Charles Evans, he played a significant part on Everest in 1953, carrying loads twice to the South Col and leading Sherpas while Tenzing was on the summit assault. He was very devout man, a quality that commands great respect among Sherpas, and his example, leadership and reliability influenced the performance of whole team.

In spite of advancing age, he continued as an active expedition member. In 1954 he was on Makalu with Edmund Hillary and in 1955 he was Sirdar to Charles Evan's expedition, which made the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, carrying to nearly 8230 m. The following year he took over from Passang Dawa Lama as Sirdar on the Swiss expedition, which made the second ascent of Everest and the first of Lhotse. He took part in three further expeditions. Emlyn Jones's attempt on Ama Dablam, James Robert's first ascent of Annappurna II, and as Sirdar to Dorothea Gravina's ladies Jagdula expedition which climbed Kanjiroba Himal, before returning to Everest with the Americans in 1963, when he carried loads twice to the South Col. Dawa was much loved by British mountaineers. On a visit to Britain he was an impressive sight, complete with pigtails and Tibetan dress. At home in Khumbu, however, he suffered a double tragedy when his son Mingma was killed on an expedition, and his wife, on hearing the news, committed suicide. Dawa moved toThyangooche, living close to the monastery, supported by a pension initiated by Tony Streather and contributed by the British climbers.

When, to mark the 25^th anniversary of the ascent of Everest, the team members trekked from Darjeeling to Khumbu, they unexpectedly met Dawa Tenzing on the track coming the other way. It was a joyous and emotional reunion with much embracing and back thumping. That alone was worth the two-week walk from Darjeeling, but he was seen again over the three-day Mani Rimbdu festival at Thyangboche, where he enjoyed the position of honour at the side of the High Lama. He passed away peacefully a few years later.

Annullu

Annullu was Dawa Tenzing's younger brother, and an equally fine Sherpa. An instantly likeable person with a ready smile, his smart turnout contrasted with his elder brother's more rugged appearance. In 1953 it was he who, with Wilfrid Noyce, first reached the South Col and paved the way for the large party of porters to the Col.

Annullu took part in the successful expedition of 1955 to Kangchenjunga and, in 1956, to Everest with the Swiss, carrying again to the South Col. With his brother he was on Ama Dablam and Annapurna II before joining Hillary's Makalu Expedition of 1961, when he carried a load to Camp 7 at 8230 m and almost reached the summit. He was then involved in an accident with a number of other Sherpas, while helping to rescue them in spite of having broken a rib and being in great pain himself. The following year he was with the Germans on Pumori, and in 1963 again on Everest, this time with the Americans, keeping the icefall open for eight weeks.

Sadly he was killed in accident on the relatively easy crossing on the Ambu Lapcha. He was one of the most popular Sherpas. He was married three times and left seven children.

Wangdi Sherpa

The present generation does not remember much about Wangdi and very few from the old guards of Darjeeling Sherpas are left to describe the once famous climber Wangdi. He shot into fame after climbing Cho Oyu in 1960, an expedition in which Maj. Nandu Jayal had died. Wangdi became HMI instructor. His international recognition was confirmed after he climbed Jannu (Kumbhakarna) in 1962. A charming Sherpa, Wangdi was involved in a controversy with Tenzing over his marriage proposal. He left HMI and shifted to Manali, in Himachal Pradesh, after taking a crash course mountain guiding in France. He tried to run his ambitious project of mountain trekking at Manali but could not compete commercially with the Punjabi/Delhi businessmen. He also climbed Nilgiri in 1972.

A sharp Sherpa in the mountain is now lost in the wilderness. No more details are available on Wangdi but some remember him as well dressed, handsome and cheerful gentleman.¹

Phurba Dorje

A young and handsome Phurba was the eldest son of late Gyalzen Mikchen, the senior instructor of HIM. He was born in Darjeeling in 1949 and became a HMI instructor in 1971. Climbing was in his blood and his father always inspired him. He died while descending from Nanda Devi (E) in 1981, the PARA expedition led by late Major. Kiran Kumar.²

Ang Kami

Ang Kami became instructor at HMI after having taken part in the American expedition to the Everest in 1963. He later climbed Everest with the Indian team lead by Capt. M. S. Kohli in 1965. He was born in Namche Bazar but made Darjeeling his home after he was picked by Brig. Gyan Singh for the Indian Everest expedition 1960. He died in an avalanche on Bethartoli Himal, in an expedition organised by Harish Kapadia in 1970.³

Ang Nyima Sherpa

Another forgotten hero from Darjeeling of bygone days is the late Ang Nyima Sherpa. He was born in Solu Khumbu in 1931. He died in 1986 at Darjeeling due to a sickness. He belonged to the group of Sherpas of the 50's when they used to climb difficult peaks without bothering about what equipment they would be needing while negotiating a crevasse. This was the time before they shot into prominence after the 1953 British Everest expedition and summiting Annapurna II. He had already reached South Col with Dr. G. Chevalley, leader of the fall Mount Everest Swiss Expedition of 1952. A chain smoker, he always carried additional ration of cigarettes. He ferried loads up to 8530 m, the only Sherpa besides Tenzing to do so on the 1953 expedition. His role on Machhapuchhare was laudable. Unprotected on steep ice, he appeared safe and confident. He served in the 10 Gorkha Rifles and served in Malaya and Borneo before he retired as sergeant and came back to Darjeeling to take care of his neglected home. He was awarded Queen Elizabeth II Crown Award in June 1953 and Elizabeth II Dei Gratia Regina FD.

He participated in the following expeditions:

Everest (Swiss) — 1952, Everest (British) — 1953 and Annapurna II & IV (Japanese) 1953

North West Nepal (British) expedition to Dhaulariri (British) — 1954, (First ascent of Putha Himachali on 11 November 1954)

First ascent of Annapurna II — 1960

Pasang Temba

Pasang Temba was born in Solu Khumbu and encouraged by Tenzing's achievements, made Darjeeling his home. He was a helpful friend, an honest and perfect gentleman. He was the Sherpa who went more than 8230 m carrying the load with the American expedition in 1965. On his return he worked as an HMI instructor and there after one does not hear much of his mountain pursuits except as part of Harish Kapadia's Bethartoli Himal expedition in 1970. After retirement he settled down to enjoy the fruits of his hard work. His desire to put his son Nima Tshering into mountaineering world failed as Nima died while doing Advance Mountaineering Course of HMI in 1983. Temba was stated to be in the depression after that and he died in 1984.⁴

These nine Sherpas were probably lesser known. Missed opportunities and life did not give them all that they deserved. My five years with HMI saw them ageing and some of them even dying. At no stage did I see them discouraged or disillusioned. They lived a happy life no matter how bitterly they felt the financial crunch.

Summary: Tribute to few lesser known Sherpas.

 

 

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TWO YEARS HAD PASSED SINCE JAC (Japanese Alpine Club) Tokai Section tried the first winter ascent of the giant Lohtse South Wall in December 2001, which eventually failed, the team having retreated at 7600 m due to biting winter blizzard.

In order to challenge it again a second expedition was organised in 2003, this time as one of the commemorating events of JAC's centenary. At the actual moment of turning back to the Wall, we did not fail to formulate a feasible strategy in setting out with the specific purpose to achieve its object in bitter conditions, based on the past experience.

The focus was to prepare the best men in best physical condition, and to acclimatise as best as possible. This was to say: climbing members would be limited to the potentially fittest 5 climbers. A perfect acclimatisation programme would be implemented by climbing a 8000 m peak immediately before the event. And the summit bid would be made as early as possible in winter.

On 14 October, all the 5 climbers reached the top of Shishapangma Central with 2 Sherpas, thanks to good weather. Afterwards the men took enough time to recuperate and regain their strength either in Kathmandu or in Japan, and reached BC at the foot of the Wall on 14 November. Nepali regulations had been changed to remove the 4 seasons' definations earlier in 2003, therefore it was possible to start operations as early as on 19 November.

We found in front of the Wall, however, that the bottom one third of it had changed for the worse compared with the last time as rocks were now entirely exposed, albeit snow had accumulated on the whole wall much more than at that time. Nevertheless, the route to be followed had been known to us in detail up to 7600 m at least. On 22 November; we set up C1 on the Rock Cap at 5900 m, on 28^th; C2 at 7100 m having cut off fluted ice, and then on 3 December Interim C3 at the site where the Yugoslavian team had placed C4 in the past We purported to use this as our base to extend route work upwards.

The wall conditions were in good shape, with less frequency of rock falls than the last time. Even then, it was desperately similar in its vulnerability, exposed to the peril of being directly struck by shrieking stone-bullets out of blue at any time, despite an incessant watch to avoid possible risks. Notwithstanding, everything was going well and in speed. On 5 December we could pass upwards over the highest point reached last time, and then on 9^th set up C3 at 7850 m, which height was somewhat lower than earlier estimated. How we wished for settling in the high camp from where we could make a summit push! All, so far, had gone smoothly, according to plan. Now only our summit bid was left and this would possibly include some trials. The summit would be surely in our hands.

But it was not to be. The crux of the Wall actually started from there, yet unknown to us.

We took the couloir extending at further right, as the route to the top, to which a 200 m descent over from C3 had to be made. It should directly lead us to the left shoulder close by the top. By doing so, we could avoid the seemingly difficult ridge, which supposedly Tomo Cesen had taken as his route. That also would enable us to avoid the long main ridge to the top across which terrific gales always raged in winter. On the other hand, the couloir would be always prone to avalanches. As it were we thought we might find a rather safe way in it, as we had seen nearly no snow fall during this winter season.

As a matter of fact, we found the couloir far from easy. From the beginning, we were forced to struggle on a delicate traverse into it. In the couloir awaited us the stiffest pieces of climbs, one after another, and the 2 parties, each led by Tanabe and Kitamura, attacked it each day in turn during the following 5 days. Even this was insufficient to reach the top, though we reached as high as 8250 m. By then Sherpas had suffered from stone-falls and frost-bite and not much support from them could be expected any more.

Tanabe's party made the last attempt starting from BC on 18^th. That night, however, the weather forecast reported a probability of snowfall on the day that they would reach the couloir, which implied high risks of avalanches there, and there was no option but to retreat. Only 250 m short of the summit. True that 8 out of 20 members had some hurt by stone-falls or frost-bite, but a longer climb would have had resulted in serious accidents. Safe return itself was the best result indeed.

Contemplating I realise that success is possible only in the following 3 cases; An alpine-style ascent by a genius like Tomo Cesen, or a thorough rock-ridge climb like the old-USSR party took, or a speedy one in the pre-winter season. In any case, you need some luck to survive, needless to say.

Members

Leader : Osamu Tanabe(42)

Deputy leader : Masanori Suzuki(42)

Climbing members : Toshiyuki Kitamura(41) Shigehisa Yamamoto(35) Atsushi Senda(29)

BC manager : Goro Takenaka(43)

Climbing Sherpas : 15

Summary: An attempt of the South wall of Lhotse (8511 m) by a Japanese team. They reached 8250 m. This was their second attempt on the wall in winter.

 

 

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OUR EXPEDITION OF EIGHT CLIMBERS from Sydney Rock Climbing Club was successful in putting eleven people on the summit of Ama Dablam, 6812 m, over an eight day period, via the classic southwest ridge route.

The idea for the expedition was mooted two years previously at the 50^th anniversary of the Sydney Rock Climbing Club. The trip was to introduce climbers to Himalayan expeditions and allow me to pass on knowledge and experience gained on many expeditions in the region, including successful ascents of Cho Oyu in 1997 and Everest in 1998. All of the expedition members were accomplished rock climbers keen to experience Himalayan climbing, so the southwest ridge route on Ama Dablam was chosen for its technical rock climbing up to Camp 3 and steep snow and ice pitches above the Dablam to the summit.

The members acclimatised in the Khumbu area during the circuitous trek in via Gokyo to Everest base camp and back to Dingboche where I met them after arranging the climbing permits with our trekking agent then walking in from Jiri.

In preparation for the climb on Ama Dablam, we practised techniques for rigging fixed rope by climbing nearby Imja Tse, 6160 m. I was the only climber to summit via the west flank route on the morning of 4 May due to strong katabatic preventing the other team members from summitting — much to our expedition members' annoyance!

Base camp for Ama Dablam was set up on 6 May . After the puja we carried and set up three camps on the southwest ridge over the next few days, while Jungbu teamed up with the Swiss expedition Sherpa to push the route out.

We pooled resources with expeditions from Switzerland and America to replace old fixed ropes on the route and to better utilise the limited tent platforms at Camps 1 and 2. Expedition members were kept busy resetting pitons and ice screw anchors, cutting down the old deteriorated fixed ropes and fixing new rope particularly on the Grey Tower between Camps 2 and 3.

Once high camp was established at 6400 m on the ice shelf below the Dablam hanging glacier, pairs of climbers summitted over successive days in clear skies to enjoy the views of the big mountains of the region.

While the challenge of the climb was relatively low due to the amount of fixed rope put in on the route, all of the expedition members enjoyed the climb and the success of the expedition.

Our expedition was relatively resource friendly using MSR petrol stoves in lieu of gas cartridge containers and by the use of solar charged devices from walkie-talkie batteries to a solar shower. Much effort was spent gathering up the old fixed rope we cut down and to clean up the areas around the high camps and base camp areas. Several sack loads of garbage were carried down to the SPPC office at Namche Bazar.

Climbing the route in a 'traditional fixed line- fixed camp' method allowed us to climb at a relaxed pace on the short climbs between camps and we were able to acclimatise well at the higher camps.

Summary :

Peak: Ama Dablam, 6812 m

Route: Southwest Ridge

Country: Australia

Expedition leader: Alan Silva Sirdar: Saki Tamang

Climbing Sherpa: Jangbu Sherpa

Trekking Agency: Independent Himalayan Adventure, Katmandu

Summitters:

10^th May - Jangbu Sherpa

11^th May - Jangbu Sherpa, Jonathan Castley, Grace Tang

12^th May - Alan Silva, Hayden Brotchie

13^th May - Neil Lefevre, Garth Ricket

18^th May - Jangbu Sherpa, Penny Troy, Jonathan Castley

 

 

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THOUGH THE SUMMIT OF THE SHARK'S FIN had been reached by the prolific Russian alpinist Valeri Babanov in an impressive 2001 solo effort, a direct line was what the previous twenty or so expeditions (and ours) had in mind. Most of those expeditions favoured 'big wall' tactics to try and overcome the final 500 m of the namesake rock fin. The few that made it onto the face didn't get their haul bags past the initial 5700 m ice gully. We hoped to race up the gully, exit left onto the lower reaches of the fin, rock climbing it to directly below the northeast face of the fin, where we could link ice features up the final 500 m, intersecting the fin just below the summit- five days, roundtrip. We thought a 'fast and light' style might get us up the climb.

At 10 p.m., on 13 September , three weeks after Conrad Anker, Bruce Miller and I arrived in Delhi, we put the idea to the test. We crossed the bergschrund at 5150 m and started climbing unroped for 640 m, to a point just below where we'd been forced down a week earlier by deteriorating weather. The main gulley is also a funnel for everything that comes off the upper mountain — not a good place to be in a storm, or even the daytime warmth. Doug then led 9 classic pitches of steepening ice, while Conrad and I followed in the only way practical with too-heavy packs: on jumars. Doug's awkward, near vertical exit pitch brought us to 5700 m at 10 a.m.

I led the next block — two 5.8 pitches, followed by an unexpected A2+ pitch on beaks and blades. With only a couple hours of daylight left, we rapped back to a meager bivy ledge leaving the last two pitches fixed. That night was spent doing cold contortions in an effort (unsuccessful) to find some sort of comfortable sleeping position.

The next day Conrad was in the lead. He sped up a moderate mixed pitch, passing the last evidence of the few big wall hopefuls and traversed out left. That pitch ended on a snowy shoulder where I worked on excavating a platform big enough to actually set the bivy tent up properly. Doug and Conrad continued up the last 100 m obstacle that separated us from, what we were confident would be, a respite of easy snow slopes. It was a relief to see Conrad make quick work of the two critical overhanging pitches (5.10x) before snow sent Doug and him back down. That night it snowed 8 inches, ruling out climbing the next day, which dawned clear.

This sort of unsettled weather had been the norm for us and we weren't too anxious yet. It was great to just lie in the tent like sardines, occasionally getting up for a glimpse of Shivling rising above the sacred Gangotri glacier. What we were anxious about was our chances of finding bivy sites up above. We solved the problem by deciding to leave the bivy gear and push unencumbered, nonstop from our camp at 5850 m to the summit.

At 10 p.m. we 'woke up' (I doubt if any of us had any real sleep in the previous four days) and launched for the summit. Above the fixed lines, Doug quickly realised that our 'easy' snow slope was in reality 60-degree unsupportable fluff over blank granite slab. It was a desperate mixed lead in numbing cold for him to get just 40 m to the last possible anchor. It wasn't a question of our ability or style. It was simply impossible conditions. 1 m of unconsolidated snow overlaying blank granite left no options for anchors. We searched for hours for a crack, or ice, or another weakness, but came up empty handed. Our expectations of finding easy ice and snow were shattered. Realising the futility of our situation we had to retreat. Sixteen hours later we were safely back in ABC.

Although we were unsuccessful in our attempt, we were glad for the opportunity to climb in the Himalaya. New routes are hard won prizes, and even though we didn't summit we're proud of the style of our attempt. As a consolation, we were happy to push the route further than ever before with a high point of 6000 m.

Summary: An attempt on the Shark's Fin of Meru (6672 m), in the Gangotri glacier, Garhwal, in September 2003.

Photo 71

 

 

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WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOU have to spend three days between two meetings in a large city like Delhi? That was the dilemma that I faced in December 2001. And the answer was simple : go on a trek.

One can reach the Himalayan foothills by an overnight journey from Delhi by train and so one can easily push off to the hills. A meeting with Suman Dubey and Gurdial Singh was all that was needed to suggest going to Nag Tibba, a small but a prominent hill top at 3027 m, from which one gets some terrific views of the Himalayan range.

Nag Tibba lies in the Aglar valley and is the dividing line between two areas. Several students and trekking parties have visited it, and there are various different routes to approach its base as well as its summit. There are new roads now being built as an approach to this small but most vantage viewpoint.

We travelled from Dehra Dun, bypassing Mussoorie, to reach Thatyur in the Aglar valley.

'I have two horses and the rate would be Rs. 200 for the day for each,' Sher Singh told us with a smile on his face.

'Rs. 150 is the rate declared by the authorities, don't you know that?' I said.

'Well tourists have been paying us Rs. 200 and so we are spoilt', he added with another disarming smile.

In fact, he was telling me that instead of the tradition of the official rates, the market rates were ruling as in the plains. He was honestly confessing his dishonesty !

So there we were with two mules walking for about four hours to a beautiful bungalow at Devalsari. The road from Thatyur to Devalsari is a gentle walk through villages. There are plans to build a motorable road. A small but comfortable and beautifully located forest rest house at Devalsari is a great place to stay. It is situated next to thickly wooded forest of deodars. In fact all around, there were rice fields and suddenly we had this large crop of deodars.

It is said that once a sadhu stayed in these fields when there we no deodars. Some of the locals made fun of him and he was asked to vacate the plot. He was angry but did not want to destroy everything so his curse was, 'You will not be able to grow any rice or food here and only deodars will grow'. His curse today has turned into blessings and this forest is a great treat. In this forest there was a small temple dedicated to Nag or the Serpent, which is worshipped in this valley. It is said that cows from Kinsu village grazed around this temple. One of the cows used to shed milk on a Shivling, a round stone, as an offering. When the shepherd saw that the cow was giving less milk everyday, he quietly followed her and he saw the cow offering the milk to the Shivling. In anger, he picked up an axe and chopped the Shivling stone, representing Shiva, into two. God ordered him to build a temple here as repentance. So today, amidst the deodar forest we have this lovely Shiva temple with the stone, representing lord Shiva split into two.

These were the lovely fables from people of these small villages around. After enjoying an evening walk into these villages, next day we walked to Ghodiapa pass which was on the ridge towards the north, and leading down to Chapda village. Some villagers were carrying a heavy cupboard made of solid wood across the ridge as a dowry for a girl they had married into the next valley. To keep up traditions across such high ridges was certainly challenging. As I walked up to the pass, one villager, Gwanulal walked with me in the dense forest. He kept a distance from me and when I asked him, he said, 'My guru has advised me that in this kaliyug (dark age) be afraid of men not animals'. He laughed and we teamed up.

From the pass we had excellent view of the ranges from Bandarpunch to Himachal and the trees of this forest at the top of the ridge were a treat. Both of us sat down and exchanged information about our families. As I offered him some of my food he tasted it and asked, 'Can I take this with me and not eat here? I would like to share it with my daughters. They have never tasted food from Bombay. They would love it.' He asked me about my family and I told him about my two sons. The younger one, Lt. Nawang Kapadia had joined the Indian Army and was killed by the terrorists in the bloody conflict in Kashmir. Gwanulal suddenly got up asking me to wait. He came back with small cones of deodar and rubbed them in his hands. There was only yellow powder left, looking like pure saffron. He put a mark on my forehead.

'This is deodar ka tilla, the mark of deodar, and it is made from deodar ki pithai. These small cones are considered holy and are available only during these times, in early winter.'

He got a handful of pithai and stuffed it in my rucksack, 'Take these home and put it on the photograph of your son. He will be blessed.' In this four-hour walk with this simple Garhwali villager, I had formed a lifelong friendship. Such are the ways of trekking in this land of gods. We said goodbye to each other on the pass as he descended towards his village to the north of the pass and I returned back towards Devalsari.

We spent that evening again in the village. An old man welcomed me with a smile and wisdom.

Whenever guests come it is both harja and kharcha' he said. 'It is kharcha, expense, as you will drink tea and eat some food, and harja as you will disturb my family from work'. But he received us warmly, offered tea and spent plenty of time with us. The lady of the house introduced us to the family members and later to her cows and mules also who were lined up outside the house. They were almost like her family members.

Thatyur, the place from where we had trekked up, was formerly a jail for the animals. If an animal trespassed into the field of another villager and caused damage, the latter had the right to catch it and would take it to Thatyur where a large fenced yard was constructed as a jail for these animals. Until the owner of the offending animal paid a fine for the damages, the animal would not be released. As cows and animals were a centre of life, Thatyur was an important place. Today the word Thatyur is used almost like a bad word or curse. When two villagers fight, they say in anger,' let your animals go to Thatyur, to jail’.

The night was full of stars and we sat around a fire till it turned amber. I was with my good friends Sarita and Vinnie Chaudhury. Their son, Vishal had married Ekta only about a week ago and joined us with their friends. We teased him about how he was spending his honeymoon. In Indian philosophy, a lot is written about serpent-worship and many Indian films are made on the subject, wherein a serpent turns human (hero or mainly a heroine), blesses the good and devastates evil. We had to be in the good books of Nag devta and to make sure that he blessed the newly-weds and us.

On the final day, came the time to climb up steeply to the summit of Nag Tibba. The route goes up and up, at first through some forest, but later on barren slopes. Finally, we reached a small temple. This was again just a stone. It is said that a shepherd from Mudni, regularly came to this spot with animals to graze. He worshipped a rounded stone (staya - truth) by applying pithai on to it. This holy action turned the stone into Lord Shiva, (shivam). When people later worshipped it, the beauty behind the stone was seen (sundaram). In this gesture on Nag Tibba, almost the entire philosophy of Hindu idol-worship of gods carved in stone, (murtipuja) was demonstrated. The final climb was steep, but never difficult. The view from the top was an uninterrupted endless beauty of mountains, spreading across, almost 200 km wide. After absorbing this, we rushed down to Thatyur, took a taxi to Dehra Dun and a night train back to Delhi.

As we had started with 'honest dishonesty', we ended with unbelievable honesty in this commercially crazy world. It amazed all of us. The old chowkidar (caretaker) at Devalsari Forest Rest house calculated our charges and informed us, 'You have to pay me Rs. 200 for the two days stay.' He had been very helpful, bringing us wood, food, some oil, was also doing some cooking for us.

'Here take Rs. 500 and keep the balance Rs. 300 as your tip'. He looked at me thoughtfully.

'Why are you giving me such a large tip? I cannot accept so much. I will keep only Rs. 100', and he returned back to me Rs. 200. He smiled and added, 'Accepting too much as tip would spoil me so I would not be able to serve the next guest honestly or with full attention as I have done to you'.

Many have discovered the pleasures of Nag Tibba, just three days away from Delhi. No sooner were we back in Delhi any sense of ego we may have had about doing such a quick trip was flattened to learn that Bill Aitken had done it in two days flat, Delhi-to-Delhi and a Rolf Kleiner, a master at Woodstock School had done it one day from Mussoorie¹. Even the great serpent will not able to match their records.

Summary: A short trek to Nag Tibba, Garhwal.

 

 

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A GOOD TREK IS NOT MEASURED just by the physical coordinates of cool heights attained and scenic ridges traversed. Perhaps more crucial is the inner satisfaction that derives from walking with companions who stay agreeable under testing conditions and whose sympathies remain as a warm afterglow. Especially when we were such a disparate group from Mumbai and Delhi whose ages ranged from mine approaching a creaking seventy to Rahil, one of Harish Kapadia's friends in his tireless twenties. As well as inviting this motley of thirteen members that included seasoned campaigners of the Himalayan Club (Dinesh and Nandini Purandare) as well as first- timers (Deepa), Harish arranged for his famous porter establishment under the evergreen Har Singh's supervision to ease our way.

We got off to an auspicious start at Kausani when Manjulika Dubey took the trouble to come from Delhi with Suman to open up their fabulously sited bungalow and provide an inaugural dinner. To suggest more magic lay ahead was an astounding magnolia in full bloom in Manju's garden as though offering tribute to Trisul which floated (increasingly as the night wore on!) in front of our raised glasses.

Forty years ago I had done Budha Pinnath by several routes and had always looked longingly down towards Ganai Chaukutia where a hidden lake was said to nestle. When Harish suggested he could solve my problem, I (figuratively) leapt at the offer but till the last minute was not sure whether my spondulosis would allow darshan of Tarag Tal. We set off grandly through the cantonment in two jeeps that deposited us at Kantili where the Kosi debouches from the steep 1000 m face of Pinnath. The weather was cloudlessly perfect but there had been neither winter rain nor snow so the wheat in the terraces was already a lighter green than normal. Worse when we climbed to Chota Pinnath temple there was not a drop of water for miles around and I assumed we would have to turn back and camp lower. Like a latter- day Napoleon, Harish commands a rare loyalty from his men and the porters descended to the river and lugged up water by torchlight. The medieval temple endowed by Raja Baz Bahadur has been 'restored' by a hideous resort to cement plaster but at least the result looks folksy.

For the strenuous pull up to the tiny ancient temple on top (Pinnath refers to Shiva as bowman), the party was reduced to nine. Suman along with banking executives Manindra and Vivek had to get back to Delhi while Rajen Mehta decided to return to Kausani and then wait for our arrival (along with Geeta Kapadia) in Ranikhet. While the two bankers topped out on Budha Pinnath and returned to the lower temple, Suman disappeared off the radar screen causing some anxious moments and much scouring by binoculars. I who had set off early also managed to lose the way but luckily was able to follow Manindra and Vivek to the summit. Just before the summit cone there was a steep descent over a rock face and having negotiated this the ladies of the main party were in high spirits. Obviously this was christened the 'Hilary (Clinton) Step'.

I was surprised to see amongst the first arrivals Tanil Kilachand, always nattily turned out and extraordinarily for a senior citizen, sporting two stents in his arteries. Concerned to observe all the religious niceties that most of us overlook, I voted Tanil 'Man of the Match' since his devotion to the local devtas probably occasioned the small but timely graces that followed our mini-expedition.

Most years until April, snow lies on the north face of Pinnath but in 2003-04 there was hardly any. Luckily the priest's tiny room adjoining the temple had a tank that collected rain water and we were able to squeak by until a water source was found two kilometres down the mountain. Rigging tents for nine proved a challenge in the confined space but Harish and his team sorted it out after a fashion. (I spent the night glissading on my mat.) We had plans to occupy the pujari's room but at that very moment Pandukoli Baba from a neighbouring peak-shrine arrived, having walked thirty-five kilometres over ferocious terrain. This was a blessing because despite his propensity to lecture on the evils of secular trekkers, he gave us hard information on the next day's route.

After a marvellous sunrise (which I missed to tuck in to a three- course breakfast) we headed down into the Ramganga drainage and were lucky enough to meet a lone herder at Bichuli Khatta who confirmed the route details. Only herders and sadhus do this crossing from Kausani to Ganai and I kept my fingers crossed that Tarag Tal at the far end of the valley would be comparatively pristine. A fearsomely steep descent through fir, deodar, rhododendron (in wine red), oak and pine brought us to walnut groves and the welcome sound of running water. It was unique to find in this unspoilt valley no plastic litter. The first village boasting tall men of military was set amidst white plum blossom and citrus trees groaning under the weight of sweet oranges and bitter lemons. Eventually we camped near the swelling river before Neoli with the tal hidden round the corner awaiting the fourth morning's denoument.

While Harish enjoyed his Urdu film music in his tent, Deepa emulated J.K.Rowling in bewitching the village kids who had gathered round to assess this apparent invasion from Mars. Even better the strangers turned out to be Bombaywallahs -who occupy the end of every villager's rainbow. The porters who had sweated the most on the Kosi ascent now had the bonus of freshly caught fish for their supper from the incipient Ramganga. For someone who loves but rarely gets Gujarati food, Kamal Limdi and his wife Nandini (both surgeons from Surat) plied me with an astounding variety of Gujarati sweets including the ultimate Ghebar.

The moment of truth arrived next morning as we passed immaculately turned out school kids and asked how far Tarag Tal was. It was Tanilbhai who noted how they swelled with pride when they referred to their valley as 'the Tal.' Even better than a lake the tal turned out to be a glorious spread of knee-high wheat, a sensational emerald riffle running for miles. It is a seasonal lake that in the rains fills to more than a depth of twenty feet. What a glorious climax to my forty-year wait. The sight after the drought on the Kosi side of the watershed even put Napoleon into the waltzing mode, albeit with his camera.

To our transport of delight was added a new motor road that took off from the end of the tal where jeeps with treadless tyres and licenceless drivers awaited to deliver us shakily to Ganai. As environment all rounders Nandini, Dinesh and Deepa opted to visit Corbett wildlife park while Rahil headed for Har Singh's village. The rest of us caught another jeep to Ranikhet and en route saw the elegant temple cluster at Dwarahat. By 3 p.m. we were enjoying South Indian food in Krishnan and Dolly Kutty's garden with a glass of home-made rice wine.

While not qualifying as 'The Trek That Changed The World' this outing was a brief and wonderful way to sample a cross section of the character of the land and people of western Kumaun. The Tarag Tal trek also won us the magical jackpot; what our expedition doctor Kamal defined as the moment of true freedom poised between stimulus and response.

Summary: A trek to Budha Pinnath and Tarag Tal, in Kumaun in February 2004.

 

 

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JAYPRAKASH TIWARI LIVES IN ANUSUA with his family — wife and two cute baby girls. He runs the only Chati (road side very modest hotel) in Anusua — a two storied brick and mud house with spartan facilities. They toil hard to eke out a living. Uma, the wife who can beat any woman in a beauty contest, begins her day at the crack of the dawn and it ends at midnight. But despite the hard life they laugh a lot, play around their baby girls and seem quite content. They are always ready to serve the guests with a smile; it surely must be the heady influence of the valley.

Anusua — a small settlement of few Garhwali families and priests of Anusua temple lies in a small valley in the deep of Garhwal Himalaya at 2200 m, reachable only after a steep trek of 5 km and is surrounded by soaring green mountains and canopied by dense forest. The surrounding forest teems with wild animals —deer, boar, Himalayan bear and leopard. Birds and butterflies are the valleys permanent residents.

We were in Anusua to complete a somewhat tough trek that started at a place called Mandal, went up to Rudranath, one of the famous Panch (five) Kedar then taking a lonely, treacherous and steep route over mountain ridges to Kalpeshwar — the fifth Kedar.

Anusuas' claim to fame is its temple of Mata Anusua who is said to be the greatest Sati (loosely translated, faithful wife) of all time. Her faithfulness was tested, again and again, by the Gods themselves (it is said, their wives forced them to do it. It's reassuring to know, even gods have to dance to the dictate of their wives — like us the mortals!). And in the process her husband — the equally famous Atri Muni who usually spent most of his time in meditation in a nearby cave, turned those gods into toddlers. The conspiring Goddesses were forced into submission to save their husbands and the greatness of the Mata was established.

Trekking 5 kms from Mandal (1645 m) — the roadhead, through a meandering and steep trail on the bank of Atri Dhara (rivulet), I was tired. The climb of nearly 600 m in 5 kms that too in the first day of the trek was tiring. Most of the track goes through dense forest and sensing our apprehension of wild animals, our guide cum porter assuredly said, Saab, Bhalu ke bagar kuch dar nehi (Sir, fear the bear only)!

Seeing me on his door, Jayprakash quickly spread a blanket on the floor of the wide balcony in the first floor. One can see the whole valley stretching leisurely from this balcony. Rupa, the youngest girl (all of four years), seeing her old acquaintance, came running in. It felt like home. I just sat there late into the night soaking in the ambience — the silence, the light fresh air, the occasional chirping of the birds and the display of the butterflies and in the darkness - twinkling of glowworms.

Next day, we set out for the cave where, legend says, sage Atri lived and meditated. The 1.5 km trek through dense forest; balancing precariously on a single log bridge over the fiercely flowing Atri Dhara was thrilling (I never realised before — I can perform as a gymnast!). More thrill to come when I had to climb a 3 m rock wall desperately clinging on an iron chain that dangles from the rock wall and swings violently (surprise! I can be a chimpanzee too). And then crawl on all fours like a snake through a one-foot wide slit of a giant boulder. Any wrong move, I will find myself at the bottom of a sheer drop of 100 m.

But the cave is worthy of all these life-defying acts of 'who dares wins'! It is an exact replica of that great 'Skull Cave of Phantom' (remember Ghost who walks?). The cave is hidden behind a huge fall from which great volume of water torrentially cascades. The fall generates a drone that reverberates like the sound of an express train on full run. One had to shout to be heard.

But neither Anusua nor Atri cave was our destination. We want to go to Kalpeshwar via Rudranath through a route that is seldom trekked. Anusua was just a halt in between, mainly, for acclimatisation. The next part of the track—a steep continuous ascent of 13 km to Naola pass (3870 m) and a gentle descent of 4 km—through the most dense forest and green Bugiyals was waiting to test our strength and patience. They say, Rudranath ka chadai, German ka ladai (the ascent of Rudranath is akin to a battle with the Germans).

Starting at 5 a.m. we reached Rudranath (3560 m) at 4 a.m. totally exhausted, on the brink of collapse. Barring a lunch break and few short recesses, it was a continuous trek for almost eleven hours through one of the most difficult and most beautiful terrain where the correct trail is impossible to locate without the help of a guide. The tall trees, covered with moss, had such an ancient look that one is bound to feel veneration toward them. Green Bugiyals dotted with alpine flowers and rhododendron, flittingly sunny and forever misty gave us some relief.

The priest of the Rudranath temple enlightened us with two legends associated with Rudranath. One is the well-known Panch Pandav story; to wash their sin after the battle of Kuruskhetra, Panch Pandav came to the Himalaya to have a darshan (sighting) of Shiva. But Shiva was reluctant to show himself and fled in the guise of a bull. Bhim followed Shiva and seized a part of the bull's body forcing him to abandon that part in that place. Shiva left his face in Rudranath.

The other story is not associated with Pandavs. On hearing Shiva being condemned by her father — Daksha, Shiva's consort Parvati committed suicide. When news of Parvati's death reached Shiva, he transformed himself into an image of pure rage (Rudra) in Rudranath.

Actually, Rudra is a Vedic god. In Rg Veda, god of fire has been called Rudra who has two manifestations — destroyer (Rudra) and preserver (Shiva). Later, Rudra was totally merged into Shiva.

Some time I wonder! Whether the Himalaya is made of rock and ice or of legends, mysticism and our beliefs? This heady mixture where the borderline between reality and romanticism is somewhat mixed up and at best is very thin lures us to this unknown. This and the enticement to win over the toughest adversaries must have launched the explorations and the expeditions.

Evening came sliding down the slopes of the mountain and the sun sets the peaks around Rudranath — Nanda Ghunti, Bugyalkoti, Nilkantha on fire. Birds flocked back to their nests in the rhododendron bushes. Lights began to fade. Soon the snow crested peaks turned deathly pale. Resplendent in colours moments back, Rudranath valley turned in to a place where legends are born.

On the third day, we were off to Dumak (2500 m) — a wealthy village with school and solar power. The stunningly picturesque trail was quite difficult. It took us 11 hours (in such un-surveyed routes, distance is measured in hours not in kilometres ) to reach. On way, Toli — a green saucer shaped valley dotted with red, blue and yellow alpine flowers and surrounded by tall deodars with a small Tal (lake) bang in the middle, left us speechless.

On the final day, we reached Kalpeshwar where Lord Shiva left his matted locks. The trail is stone paved and passes through stunning scenery . In a tiny cave (2 m x 3m x 2.5 m) just in front of the cave temple, lives Bangali Baba — an ascetic. In the last 40 years he has gone out of his cave only twice-for a cataract operation and for a visit to Kumbha Mela. Sitting in front of an ever-flaming smoky Chula (oven), he'd offer every visitor a cup of hot tea with a dollop of ghee. If one lingers, he will go on offering the same concoction again and again. We had a warm chat, and recalled our earlier meeting as I took some pictures.

As I was leaving, Baba called me back. With a child like smile he said, 'Send me copies'. I was momentarily speechless. An ascetic who renounced everything, in whose cave I have not even seen a mirror, wants to keep his own image! Unfathomable human mind! Strange. Mystic. Just like my Himalaya!!

Summary: A trek in the holy Himalya, Garhwal.

 

 

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OUR FIRST ATTEMPT ON THE MOUNTAIN took place during the post-monsoon season in 2001. A four man Dutch team intended to climb the famous northeast spur of Thalay Sagar. When we reached the col below the northeast spur at 5900 m, we were very surprised to see a stunning Himalayan wall on the left side of the spur. I had never seen photographs of this side of the mountain and we immediately shifted our ambitions to climb a new route on the northeast face. Cold conditions and very stormy weather prevented our ascent of the mountain and we snapped away with a consolation prize, the summit of Bhrigupanth (6772 m). 2001 was a quiet year on Thalay Sagar, since we were the only expedition to attempt the mountain.

In 2003, Cas van de Gevel, Mike van Berkel and me returned for the northeast face of Thalay Sagar in the post-monsoon season. We reached base camp next to the beautiful lake of Kedar Tal, one week prior to the arrival of the South Korean team, led by Lee Sang Cho. Another week later the French team arrived. The north face of Thalay Sagar was filled up with thin ice gullies and the NE face was completely plastered with ice and snow. After some weeks of acclimatisation and preparation our first summit attempt ended in a snowstorm. When the weather improved the Korean team was almost ready for their ascent of a direct line in the North Face. The same line as Athol Whimp and Andrew Lindblade climbed in 1997. Cas, Mike and me immediately left for the summit because we were running out of time. To arm ourselves against the whimsical weather conditions we fixed rope up to the col and brought our portaledges and equipment to 5900 m. We decided to pull up the rope and use it for fixing part of the northeast face.

When we climbed to the col, we could see the French team carrying heavy loads to the start of their route.

We made a small camp near the bergschrund. The face was covered with icicles that snapped off in the sun. Mike experienced how this feels on his shoulders when a small avalanche hit him. Above the snow slope we climbed through a stunning ice gully. All around us was smooth granite with here and there a smear of ice. We discussed the route to be followed. Some thinly powdered slabs caused difficulties. A nearly vertical snow pitch led us to an overhanging granite belt where we stopped fixing ropes at about 6500 m. Icicles were dangling all around us and we felt as if we were starring in someone else’s movie.

The overhanging belt was climbed on aid. From here on we continued in alpine style. Reaching 6600 m underneath a vertical rock we were forced to cut a ledge for a bivouac. We had left our portaledges at the col. Layers of spindrift descended on us causing a sleepless night.

Next morning Cas led us through a steep rock section. We needed one day to climb two steep mixed pitches and to dig us a way through the snow flutes to the summit ridge. The blue sky disappeared behind clouds. Snowfall obstructed the view. We made two abseils to reach a bivouac site where we were seated on two small ice ledges at 6700 m. Our down jackets and sleeping bags were soaked. My sleeping bag was fitting around me like a sack of potatoes. Cas did not experience any of these problems. He accidentally dropped his sleeping bag and used the emergency blanket as a shelter. Snowflakes entered our clothes.

Next morning we scrambled together what was left of us. All of us were feeling very tired. We were focused to reach the summit and continued our ascent in whiteout conditions. We had always thought that the summit ridge would be difficult, but it was not that bad. A short section of metamorphic slates caused some difficulties but after climbing this last barrier we knew that the summit was within our reach. On 23 September at 11.30 a.m. we were standing on the summit of Thalay Sagar. We could not see anything, but we were extremely happy to climb this beautiful peak by a new route. We shared our success with our liaison officer when we talked to him by radio. Lee Sang Cho abandoned the South Korean expedition after two climbers became ill during their summit attempt. At that time, we did not know that the South Korean climbers were listening to our voices on the radio too.

As the weather conditions deteriorated during our descent, the face disappeared behind a veil of spindrift avalanches and fog. As three ghosts we travelled downwards, putting a lot of equipment to ensure good belay points. Due to our fixed ropes we reached our portaledges at the bergschrund at 5900 m the same day. But they had disappeared under one metre of fresh powder snow. It only remained for us to dig them out. We had to remove the portaledges because of acute avalanche danger immediately. The next morning we were extremely tired and none of us was able to carry all our heavy equipment. We filled one haul bag with two portaledges and threw them down a 500 m vertical wall to pick it up at a later date.

Now we could see the French team. They found a stunning new line in the North Face. Their portaledges were hanging in the middle of spindrift avalanches.

Our great cook Heera came all the way to ABC to surprise us with some excellent food. Without this we would never have made it to base camp the same day. Finally we reached base camp eleven days after leaving. Our South Korean friends had already left for home. Two of the French climbers returned to base camp a few days later. But Patrice and Stephane pushed on and finished their route. We saw them reaching the summit. For us Thalay Sagar was the best climbing experience of our lives. It encourages us to make new plans. We will definitely return to the Garhwal Himalayas for another beautiful ascent.

Summary: The ascent of Thalay Sagar via the NE face and SE ridge by a Dutch team in 2003.

• The ascent took 11 days for the round trip from base camp.
• Suggested grade: ED- or (VI, AI 5,V+, A1)
• 800 m for the face itself.
• About 400 to 500 m for the approach couloir to reach the col.

Cover Photo, Photos 73-74

 

 

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The air outside the shepherds hut at Tesari, a dip in a forested ridge in Himachal’s Shivalik range, was stingingly cold just before dawn in the last week of November last year. At over 3,300 meters, it swept across the snow lying shallow to the east and whistled westwards as if driven by a rising sun that could still not be seen. A cloudless dawn was in the making, and already the tops of the high Himalaya, stretching from the borders of Jammu & Kashmir to the north to Kinnaur nearer to us were glowing grey-white in the pre-dawn light. It was time to leave the relative warmth of our sleeping bags in the smoky hut covered in goat droppings, and creak our reluctant limbs into action.

It had, in a sense, taken me almost half a century to get here. As a schoolboy in Dehra Dun, I’d often been intrigued by the view of the only frequently snow-covered summit visible from the Doon valley far, far on the western horizon. This was Churdhar, which our English school masters had rechristened Chaur peak, just under 12,000 feet high (3647 meters) and a perennial challenge to schoolboys given four days off in the middle of every term to pursue adventure activities. Only a handful had made it from school, to the top and back in the stipulated time and they were heros to younger aspirants. In those days the roads ended in the foot hills and a successful ascent meant walking 30 to 40 kilometers each day from the edge of the Doon valley, where the Yamuna emerges into the plains, to the top and back. My own hope of making the climb remained an unfulfilled dream.

Till last year, that is, when Harish Kapadia, arguably India’s most experienced contemporary mountain explorer, suggested we have a leisurely crack at Churdhar, I jumped at the idea. It was greatly reassuring to learn that the average age of our seven-member party, leaving out 18-year old Soham Munim, would be well into the upper 50s. It would be a slow and interesting walk!

Roads now criss-cross every valley and every range of lower Himachal Pradesh so driving by way of Parwanoo and Solan to Rajgarh in Sirmaur district, we found ourselves on the morning of the penultimate Sunday of November 2003 at Nauradhar rest house. A large signboard displayed distances: we were 115 km from Shimla, 211 km from Chandigarh and 203 km from Dehra Dun. We also learnt our height was 2160 meters. Nauradhar had little to commend itself and as our limbs needed some exercise, a three-hour excursion saw us late that afternoon attain a nearby hill-top temple to Kudaon Devta.

The next morning, as the sun lit up a cloudy sky and illuminated the contrail of the early morning Delhi to Leh flight, we made our way up a barren hillside, past awakening homes and fallow fields, heading on a rather well constructed path towards an inviting forest above. In two hours we entered thick oak and rhododendron cover, untouched by woodsmen or contractors. In March and April, this would be a riot of red from the flowering rhododendron arborium, but for now the flowering oak gave it a sprinkling of an attractive shade of orange.

We were on a pilgrims path that leads to a temple on the far side of Chur peak, and the walk was gently graded. There were even occasional signs scribbled on rocks giving the distance covered. Soon, we hit the first patches of snow, the remnants of a storm that had lashed the region a few days earlier; it would not be till the first proper snowfall of December that the Chur massif would get its mantle of winter white.

Less than five easy hours after we started we were at our destination for the day, the spot marked Tesari on the map. A junction of routes coming up the mountain from different directions, it yielded a shepherds hut, obviating the necessity of sleeping in the open or under trees. The thick layer of droppings provided a soft cushion beneath the large tarpaulin on which we spread our sleeping bags. A group of Kumaonis, who keep Harish company on all his walks, quickly got a kitchen going and soon the abandoned hut had a well-lived in ambience. That night Soham, a skilled flautist, played Raga Hamsadvani after dinner.

I like early morning starts and the prospect of a cloudless dawn was particularly inviting. So, leaving the others to wind up camp and adopt their own leisurely pace, Soham and I trotted off before the sun came up. This was almost a mistake: the snow on the path had frozen to ice and we needed extra care. But as the forests, now replete with blue pine, yielded to grassy and rocky hillslopes, the final rocky pyramid of Chur came into view. The path to the temple veered left and we took to a narrow trail working its way steeply upwards over slopes covered in ankle-deep snow.

Soon we were among the summit rocks and then – suddenly -- face to face with a larger-than-life statue of Lord Shiva built on the very top. A small lingam to one side, some metal trisuls and a small platform completed the shrine bedecked with vividly coloured flags flapping in the wind. A quick offering made, it was time to take in our surroundings.

And what a view! I’ve been atop many peaks, big and small, but this must be the widest expanse from a sub-Himalayan summit I’ve ever seen. Chur stands at some distance from the Himalaya. The Kulu and Kinnaur mountains, particularly Kand Mahadev which looms above Sarahan and its famous temple, are the closest true heights. From the west, where the Dhaula Dhar enters Himachal to Nanda Devi and Trisul, silhouetted by the rising sun, in Uttaranchal, was a white, unbroken, glistening jagged edge of mountains. The snows seen from Binsar just north of Almora or Kausani are closer and the summits more spectacular. Darjeeling’s picturesque view of Kangchenjunga is stately, and there’s nothing to touch the dramatic scale of Jorkhandan and Kinnaur Kailash looming over Kalpa, but I doubt that there’s as sweeping a view anywhere else.

It was easy to pick out well known summits, just as Shimla, Kasauli, and Chail stood out like little smudges on distant ranges. In the far east lay the mist-covered Doon valley with the Mussoorie ridge leaning over it. On the opposite side of the snows could be seen the start of the plains. Thick, unbroken forests stretched in all directions, all too quickly meeting bare cultivated and inhabited ridges and valleys. Somewhere below us to the north, lay the temple that attracts thousands of pilgrims each year. More devout travelers do the sensible thing and spend the night at the temple where blankets, bunks and a langar makes the welcome even more inviting.

The long walk down, involving a knee-crunching descent of 1500 meters, was less demanding than I’d feared. Perhaps it was the sense of closure after half a century that made light of the effort. The only event that topped this nostalgic re-living of mid-term breaks was the sudden appearance that night of a leopard in my headlights en route to visit a friend at his orchard beyond Phagu. An incredibly graceful creature, it bounded across the road and paused a full minute in the bushes to one side, its back tautly arched and its tail languidly swaying, while it kept vigil on whatever prey it had scent of.

Summary: A walk to Chur Ohar (3642 m) near Shimla, Himachal Pradesh.

 

 

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180 KM SE OF LEH, IN THE ZASKAR RANGE lies a distant and elusive mountain. This peak is exactly on the international watershed running between India and China. Its steep rock faces rising to a height of 6764 m, stands in solitary splendour, dwarfing its sister peaks on the ridges emanating from it. This is ‘Gya’ or ‘The Kang Chang Gyalmo’ in the local dialect meaning ‘The Fair Princess of Snow’, though visible from the passes leading to the Chungthang valley and from Chumar heights, the peak has to be approached almost to its base before it unveils itself.

The Gya Peak can be approached from the Chungthang region in Ladhakh and along Lingti valley in Himachal Pradesh. The approach from Himachal is long and gradual, covering a distance of approximately 78 km. However, the Ladakh approach is short but steep, covering a distance of approximately 30 km. This beautiful and technically difficult mountain is revered to the locals and in the recent years has drawn many expeditions due to the mountaineering challenges it offers. The mountain has formidable defences of deep gorges, steep rock faces and has exposed and serrated ridges, which has thwarted many attempts to climb it in the past.

The Mountaineering History of Gya

The mountaineering history of Gya dates back to 1983 and 1987 when Harish Kapadia first discovered the peak. Since then and up to 1998, eight attempts were made (four each from Himachal and Ladakhrespectively) to scale this peak. These teams comprised some of the best mountaineers from the army, civil and SAARC countries. However, all eight attempts failed either due to misidentification of the peak or due to the wrong direction of approach to scale the peak.

The first successful attempt was made in 1998 in by an army team under the leadership of Lt Col A. B. Goth. This peak was so ellusive (as it cannot be seen until one reaches its base) that the army team lost its way and had to travel 20 km extra to locate it. Despite their successful expedition, recognition was given to them only after a year when an IMF team confirmed their tell-tale signs on the peak in 1999. In 2002, an expedition by ITBP (Indo Tibetan Border Police) based at Leh was the third successful attempt. ITBP expedition teams have left their signs at almost every camp site by building small maneks and putting up their prayer flags. The expedition by 11 GR is the fourth successful expedition to this elusive and technically most challenging peak.

A pre-monsoon expedition was planned in view of the high temperature and comparatively low water flow in Pare chu and Harun nala. Also, since this region experiences minimum rainfall in the month of Jun-July, these two months were considered as the best period for the expedition. Besides, day light hours in these months are long, approximately 15 hours. i. e. from 0400 h to 2000 h and this facilitates climbing.

Move from Tangtse to Chumar

The advance party under Capt S. S. Negi left on 15 June 2003 to carry out ground recce up to base camp. The party followed the route and reached Chumar on 16 June 2003. With the assistance of ITBP personnel the party was able to construct a vehicle track leading up to Pare chu. The party also carried out maintenance of the memorial of Late Arun Samant who had expired in 1999 while leading an expedition to Gya. The advance party succeeded in taking a vehicle across Pare chu and carried out reconnaissance up to Gyapa Chur Chor (IBC-I). With the assistance of ITBP, locals were contacted for hiring of porters and ponies for the duration of expedition.

The main team under Maj. Pankaj Singh was flagged off from Tangtse. On 20 June 2003 this team reached Chumar and was received by the advance party.

Move form Chumar to ABC

On 22 June, group under Capt. S. S. Negi left for IBC-1 (Gyapa Chur Chor) in two vehicles. The track prepared by the advance party was utilized to get down the banks of Pare chu. The vehicles were able to cross Pare chu without any difficulty and reached IBC-1 in our hour. The team leader also accompanied the party for finalizing the camp location and returned back to Chumar in the same vehicle. Since the route involved negotiation of Pare chu, the vehicles were loaded only to half of their actual capacity. A second trip to IBC-1 was not made as the crossing of Pare chu is possible only between 8 to 11 a.m. (as the water level rises). On 23 June group left for IBC-1 again in two vehicles. However, we were not as lucky this time, and vehicles got stuck in Pare chu while returning as the water level had increased prematurely and the river was in spate. Subsequent vehicles could not be used beyond Chumar. The balance of stores and ration from Chumar was ferried on mules. Gyapa Chur Chor was redesignated as IBC-1 as earlier we had planned to call it road head camp.

IBC-1 Established

Recce for IBC-2 was carried out on 22 June by four members and the balance were employed for establishment of camp. Since we had sufficient mules, loads were carried on the mules. The route to IBC-2 is difficult and hazardous as there was no proper track and Harun nala has to be crossed at number of places. The water level increased as the day progressed and the degree of difficulty of crossing the Harun nala increased correspondingly. The mules followed the Harun nala, route, however, men followed the ridge line to the south of nala.

On 27 June 03 after having stocked BC and ABC adequately, the camps were occupied on the same day. Mules were used up to BC. Porters and personnel were used for ferrying load beyond BC. The route to ABC was again along the nala, which originates from Kang Chang Gyalmo glacier and involved frequent crossing. To avoid the nala route, a new route was opened along the spur. A dedicated effort was put in to construct this route and to maintain it regularly because of the scree and steep slope. Since ABC was on Kang Chang Gyalmo glacier itself, one was sure of being on the right track. Also the stone manis and prayer flags, left probably by ITBP team at BC, reassured us of being at the right destination.

Move from ABC to Summit Camp

Reconnaissance for Camp-1 (Base of Gya) was carried out on 28 June. Here again an administrative pause of two days was given to ferry loads. The route from ABC to Camp-1 was along the Kang Chang Gyalmo glacier. Fortunately for us, the crevasses on the glacier were still in the process of opening up. Most of them were just five to ten feet wide, which could be crossed without use of a ladder. Hills on the side of glacier specially the eastern side are made of mud and loose rocks which make landslides a very frequent phenomenon.

Camp-2 at SW Ridge of Gya North

On 2 July a group occupied Camp-2 at the base of Gya North. Load ferrying from Camp-1 to Camp-2 continued. The route to Camp-2 involved a sharp climb on scree and ice. After lunch at Camp-2, the climbing party started route opening and rope fixing for the summit. Initially, the plan was to launch a final assault from Camp-2 it self. However, during the course of route opening, need for a summit camp was realized. A total of nine ropes were fixed till summit camp. On 3 July, one officer and nine other ranks occupied the summit camp. . Following the previous expedition route become hazardous after the summit camp as the snow cover was loose and fixing of ropes became impossible in the absence of holds. Thereafter the team had to adopt a new route along the NW ridgeline. Instead of cutting across the spur, the party started route opening and rope fixing along the ridge line. The team continued rope fixing ahead of summit camp after last light also, for as long as moonlight was available. The entire team spent the night under a rib inside their sleeping bags. As the summit was still far off, the decision to spend the night ahead of summit camp paid off in terms of time and effort next day. By now the team had already encountered two gullies and were moving on an almost 80° slope. The absence of ice and presence of loose rocks made the movement even more difficult. Rope fixing on loose rocks was also a tough task. Though the approach to the summit was a traditional NW approach, the route being followed was new.

The team started their final assault at 0400 hrs on 04 July 03. The weather Gods also favoured the Brave Kirantis. By now the team had already fixed more than 15 ropes. Since carrying more ropes was not possible, few of them had to be recycled. Rfn Sangay Tamang and Capt. S. S. Negi as usual were in the lead. They continued route opening and rope fixing and reached the gully by 0745 hrs. By now, they were at a point from which the ridge took off steeply towards the summit. The peak seemed close but the main difficulties still lay ahead. As they were following the ridge line, the gradient above rose rapidly and the main difficulty experienced was again of loose and brittle rocks which did not allow the use of pitons for rope fixing. As a result the team had to belay and slither with the help of natural anchors. Pitons could be used only at two places.

At the gully, they came across old ropes left by the previous expedition. Since aim was to put maximum personnel on top on 4 July itself because of unpredictable weather conditions, the entire team of one officer and nine other ranks moved together. Therefore, move of ropes was again by caterpillar method, thus it was time consuming. Negotiating the ice patches, loose rock cliff, chimneys, gullies and displaying their extreme rock craft skills, Rfn Sangay Tamang was the first one to reach the summit at 1145 hrs followed by Capt. S. S. Negi. By 1200 hrs the entire team was on top of Gya. Finally the efforts of the team of three officers, two JCOs and 31 other Ranks of 11 Gorkha Rifles were rewarded. The joy of the team knew no bounds. The entire Gya ridge and the valley were reverberating with the sound of Bharat Mata Ki Jai and 11 Gorkha Ho Ki Hoina.

The team spent almost 45 minutes on top with sense of pride and satisfaction, enjoying the scenic beauty and clicking photographs. Capt. S. S. Negi found two pickets which had been left by the ITBP team and also located the famous crack in the rock as described by Lieutenant Colonel A. B. Goth in his report. They placed the metallic flag of 11 GR inside the crack and video graphed the entire area in all four cardinal directions.

The Kirantis had once again proved their mettle, mountaineering skills and created history by climbing one of the technically challenging peak without any loss of equipment, stores and life. At 1245 h the team started their descent. Coming down was even more time consuming till they reached the base of gully. The team had to leave behind their ropes and one piton for safety of the climbers. They reached Camp-2 by 1800 hrs where they rested for a while and had refreshments. Finally the entire team reached Camp-1 by 2100 h and spent the night there. By 6 July entire team was at Chumar, concluding the expedition.

The success of expedition team is attributed to the team spirit, high morale and spirit de corps among the team members. The selfless and sincere effort put in by the porters and ponies also contributed immensely towards our success. Summary: Forth ascent of Gya (6794 m) by the Indian army team on 4 July 2003.

Summary: Fourth ascent of Gya (6794 m) by the Indian army team on 4 July 2003.

Summiteers: Capt. S. S. Negi, Rfn. Nima Wangadi Sherpa, Rfn. Anil Kumar Rai, Rfn. Hari Shrestha, Rfn. Pardeep Rai, Lnk Mohan Rai, Rfn Daya Man Rai, Rfn. Bhakta Bahadur Limbu, Rfn. Sangay Tamang and Rfn. Suman Kumar Limbu.

Leader: Major Pankaj Singh, 7/11, Gorkha Rifles.

 

 

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ALTHOUGH I HAD BEEN TOYING with the idea of attempting a high peak for some time, this opportunity finally materialised in July 2003 when my proposal to take a women's team to Argan Kangri, 6789 m was given the go ahead by the Governing Council of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. The mountaineering fraternity was celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of the first Everest ascent and we decided to commemorate the event with this expedition. Although the climb would have deemed fit in May, it was planned for July as it was a better month for climbing in the Ladakh Himalaya.

The peak Argan Kangri had earlier been attempted by Sir Chris Bonington - Harish Kapadia's team in 2001, but due to the bad snow conditions they could not reach the summit.¹.

 

On 8 July we drove to Tirath the roadhead via Khardung la, the highest motor able pass in the world. Here we stopped for a short break and took some pictures of the mountains. On the morning of the 9th, we walked for an hour and a half on the tar road before we started ascending. After walking for a good 6 hours, we had to descend a steep 80 m to reach Otse-Khar. This was our most arduous trek in the expedition. The clear stream at Otse-Khar was a welcome relief from the sandy water in Tirath and it took a good drink of water to refresh us. The next day’s climb to Phonglas took about 4 hours and saw us go through a small glade onto scrubland and boulders. This was however, a more gradual climb than the previous day’s. A bit of hail made us pray silently for good weather.

On 11 July, we finally reached base camp, which was barely 2 hours away from Phonglas. Little before base camp we encountered some river crossing but because the water was only knee-deep and not very cold, everyone moved across without much effort or fuss. Base camp, at 4760 m, was a flat sheltered ground from where we could see the formidable Yamandaka on one side and the fish tail Nya Kangri on the other. We started the next day with a traditional prayer ceremony and after of good lunch the girls got down to sorting loads for the next day’s ferry to Camp 1. The weather that evening didn’t look too good and sure enough, the next morning when we left for the ferry at around 7 a.m., it was snowing. The sun did come out later, much to everyone’s relief. In the course of the 2-hour walk to Camp 1 we walked through moraine and came across three beautiful lakes. When we reached Camp 1, we found half a sack of rice left behind by the previous expedition.

Camp 2 was a good 5 hours walk from Camp 1. After travelling up and down on the moraine for about an hour and a half, one came across a mixture of moraine and glacier. Here it was preferable to walk on the moraine as there were many hidden and open crevasses on the glacier. After about 2 hours the Konto la (pass), Karpo Kangri and Argan Kangri II and III became visible. As we approached the camp the climb was steeper. We came across a huge brown rock. We had to go around this rock and it was another hour and a half before we finally reached Camp 2.

After completing the ferry to Camp 2 and stocking the camp, there was a slight change of plans. There would be no Camp 3. Instead, the summit attempt would be from Camp 2 as there was no place to pitch tents above Camp 2. 17 July was thus a rest day and we had no movement up the mountain. When the girls assembled after breakfast I announced the summit team. It was not a difficult decision, the mountain had already chosen the climbers. Phulmaya, Sushma, Kavita and Reena. Bimla and Ayingbi were extremely disappointed and took to tears. Momentary bouts of sentimentality are not new to me and I chose to ignore this.

On 18 July, four Sherpas Samgyal, Sangay Puri, Pasang Dorji and Dawa along with the four girls occupied Camp 2. They took 5 hours to reach the camp, their climb having probably been prolonged by heavier rucksacks and increasing day temperatures. The next day they opened route and fixed rope for about 400 m and the summit team then decided to leave at 1 a.m. for the climb. I had told them I would contact them at 8 a.m. but the anxiety woke me up at 5.30 a.m. We were planning to move towards the ridge to get a glimpse of the peak. Just before leaving when we switched on our walkie-talkie sets, I could hear the crackle of excited voices, ’We reached the summit at 7.45 a.m.!’ We all congratulated them — this was great news! In the midst of all the excitement, there seemed to be some confusion about the tricolour, the Indian flag, the girls were actually asking me if the green was up or down! I forgave them for this factual error. The next contact time was 10 a.m., by which they were already on their way down. By 11 a.m., the summit team had reached Camp 2 and had in fact decided to wind up and return to Camp 1 on the same day. All the girls reached safely by 5.30 p.m. It had been a long day.

The next day, after a late breakfast the girls decided to visit the mandir (temple) on the ridge overlooking Yamandaka. This mandir was set up by Bonington- Kapadia’s team. The girls offered a thanks-giving puja and clicked some pictures. We had much to be thankful about, after such a high climb without any mishap.

Summary: A women’s team from India climbed Argan Kangri, 6789 m, in the Nubra valley, Ladakh, on 19 July 2003.

Members : Rita Marwah-Gombu (leader), Bimla Negi Deoskar (deputy leader), Yana Bannerjee Bey, Phulmaya Tamang, Reena Kaushal, Sushma Thakur, Kavita Burothoki, Ayingbi Devi and Bhavna Jhadav.

Sponsored by : The Indian Mountaineering Foundation.

Note by editor:

The following record of ascent of a peak of same height at same co-ordinates is printed in the past literature as under.

In The Himalayan Club Newsletter No. 28, June 1971

Compiled by Soli S. Mehta

Ladakh: (Page 2)

2. PHUNANGMA 22,272 ft. (6789 m) First Ascent

This peak in Ladakh was a climbed on 4 August 1970 by Capt. F. C. Bahaduri, Nk. S. K. Thapa, Nk. S. Tashi, Hav. S. S. Bhandari and two Sherpas. The peak was again climbed on 5 August 1970 by Capt. N. K. Kalia, Nk. P. Stobdon and a porter. The expedition was led by Maj. R. C. Naidu.

Also mentioned in Ichiro Yoshizawa (670 pages) Concise Alphabetical Register of World Mountains, published in Tokyo, 1984.

PHUNANGMA 6788 (5186) 34 degree 35 N and 77 degree 50 E

This facts were brought to notice by Josef Hala, a researcher from Czech Republic after the Bonington – Kapadia expedition’s report. Full details and letter are printed in the Himalayan Journal Vol. 58, p. 254.

Photos 74-75

 

 

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THIS EXPEDITION CONSISITED OF ELEVEN members from the French Alpine Club federation coming from Figeac, la Rochelle, Paris, Mar~eille and Rome. Most of them were participating for the first time in an expedition. Seven trekkers joined us for the walk-in.
The expedition started with a beautiful trek from Darcha to Padum. Unfortunately soon, vehicles will be able to cross the Zanskar range by the Shingo La pass 5096 m . Indeed, we were surprised to discover motorable roads being built at the beginning and the end of this beautiful trek . This will be the third way to enter the city of Padum. There, those who planned to continue the trek followed the road to Lamayuru gompa across Ladakh range.

From Padum, the eleven climbers took the bus to Kargil to join Golmondogol bridge by the Pensi La pass 4401 m. This bridge connects to Shapat valley and the base camp of Kun. Spending the night in a tent, we reached the base camp at 4400 m after a six-hour walk. Yaks and horses carried our equipment. We settled below the team of the French agency Atalante. They were there since 5 days also attempting Kun. Their Swiss leader Raymond Monnorat, eleven members and the three sherpas had just returned from Camp II. They warmly welcomed us. They had had good weather and with luck would reach the summit. To our knowledge, we were the only expeditions on the Nun and Kun for summer 2003.

We planned that the two teams would take the eastwardroute. Atalante would settle fixed ropes between camp I and camp II and we would take back all the ropes. This route is a steep one but it’s also straighter than the one going through a ridge alongside the right bank of the glacier.

After two days of rest, we profitted from good weather to establish camp I and II. Early in the morning, it was easy to jump over some streams, but the way back was more difficult and some of us had to wet their feet. The ascent to camp I takes about seven hours, half on the snow. This camp I is on a weak slope of the glacier at a height of 5400 m under a rock looking like the ears of a rabbit. In the afternoon, it’s possible to take water from holes of the glacier near the tents. Going to the Camp 2, two hundred metres ahead, we reached the bottom of the face. When we first came, two lengths were in ice, for our last descent there were five! We only reach the place of Camp 2 at about 6100 m to lay down some equipment. After a second night in Camp 1, five climbers continued to climb with a rest of two days in the two other camps. The six other climbers went down to base camp.

After two days, the six went ahead for a summit attempt in spite of bad weather. They slept in camp I and then crossed three of the five climbers going down because of difficulties of acclimatization. The arrival at camp II was in a snowstorm. After three days there because of the bad weather, we had to go to help the two climbers who were blocked at the Camp 3. With a compass, we found them in the middle of the snow plateau. Everybody came back to camp II to wait for a better weather. The next morning we established Camp 3 at 6250 m after having forced the way on the deep snow six km along the snow plateau.

The day after, we left camp III at 4h30 and had to equip an ice length to escape by the right to the séracs coming down from the summit. The cold was intense and four of the eight climbers went down to camp III. The way was difficult for those continuing, we sometimes had some ice under melting snow. At three hours, we stopped below the last sérac at about 6850 m, with great regrets. We decided to come down to avoid a dangerous bivouac without tents, as the weather seemed to deteriorate.

The next morning, we left early for base camp. We didn’t have any more time and we came down with 800 m of fixed ropes. Six members of our team hurried down , while two of us came down with 400 m of the ropes. The day after, despite bad weather, we climbed again to remove the remaining ropes. We fixed our ropes on the rocks constituting the ridge to avoid leaving aluminium stakes and for the last length we used holes in the ice to fix ropes in (ice appearing for 100 m). To indicate how important it is for us to leave a clean mountain, we also removed an old fixed rope left by a preceding expedition. Three other climbers joined to help us take down all the ropes to base camp. The next day climbers and soldiers descended to the valley at Golmondogol bridge where a bus from the agency was waiting for us. Ten soldiers from Kargil district had stayed at the Golmondogol bridge and the base camp to keep a watch on us during the expedition. The bus drove us from Kargil to Leh in a day.

Summary: An ascent of Kun by a French team from 12 July 12 to 16 August 2003.

 

 

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AT 12:10 A.M., 19 APRIL 2003, THREE JAPANESE and four Nepalese members of our party stood on top of Hungchi (7036 m).

We exchanged a few words with the leader at BC, transceivers on both sides having been already on. This was our fourth attempt and this time we were successfully rewarded.

Gokyo - ABC 31 March - 3 April

A three hour walk northward from Gokyo along the right bench of the Ngonjumba glacier took us to the edge of a cliff where we descended to the bottom of the glacier. The sandy wall is about 25 mand almost perpendicular. It took us one whole day to bring down 30 packages of our load, each some 30 kilograms, with loose stones frequently tumbling down. Crossing for 2 hours among the moraines of the glacier some 2 kilometres wide and going up above the slower left bank, we came to a flat plateau commanding a good view of Everest, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang and Hungchi, whence we proceeded to the BC site.

The site was on the right side of the bend with a glacial lake to the east with a whole view of Hungchi beyond and, on the south side, a grassy plateau bounded by craggy slopes of a 5465 me peak.

After a 40-minute walk farther on the bench, we came down to a lovely grassland below. Studded with rocks, it is a piece of meadow-like place and we used to call it ’the Japanese Garden.’ Past it and after another 100 m uphill walk, we came to the lake side. Walking some 15 minutes along the left side of the lake took us to a fairly level place, with the south-western ridge of Hungchi showing near at hand. Here we pitched our ABC and everyone engaged in carrying up the load from the BC several times, each round taking us 3 hours.

ABC - C1 (6100 m) 3 April 3 - 11 April

Five minutes’ walk from the ABC and the snow-covered slope gets gradually steeper so we had ropes fixed along the route. There was a crevasse in our way, and with special care we crossed it by means of a snow bridge. Ascending for thirty minutes we reached the bottom of our first target, one of the side ridges some 40 degrees inclined and 80 m long. We set about climbing the ridge with a massive rock on our right side. Then we turned left towards another mass of rocks ahead. There we could take a rest on a small bulge of rock at its base. Having traversed the base, we came to a second side ridge some 50 metres long, climbed it and again made a traverse below a rock mass. Then we came to the foot of a long side ridge that directly reaches up to the main line of the southwest ridge. The average incline of the ridge is some 50 degrees and the length some 400 m, and it took us one hour to scale it up. We arrived at the uppermost ramparts of rocks which would seem to require a third grade of techniques. We used the main rope 150 metres long and came out of it to the final snow-covered slopes 60 degrees inclined. We had ropes fixed for 30 m and attained the main ridge.

We further made our way across the loose rock pile on the eastern side of the ridge, and, after passing a small pinnacle, we followed the eastern side of the snow-covered ridge for two hours till we came to the base of a massive rock where we were to pitch the C1. It took seven and a half hours from ABC.

C1 - C2 (6200 m) 11 April 11 - 15 April

From C1, we headed for the right side of the massive rock across the adjoining snow wall some 50 degrees. We found a couloir on the rock face and, fixing the main rope along the left side of it, continued our ascent, the right side being solid ice with small pebbles mixed. Bit by bit we gained height clearing snow off the rock face. Although it was technically a 3-4 grade climbing, perhaps due to altitude, hammering a rock piton in its place was a heavy job here. After climbing some 150 m we came out of the couloir onto the west side of the ridge. There monstrous ice blocks and snow were intermingled so as to form a kind of maze and we had a difficult time in finding our way. Such was the case on other side of the ridge, too. The slope as a whole is 50-60 degrees’ inclination and at two places we had to descend by rappeling ice walls of 30 mm and 50 m, respectively.

After threading through the labyrinth of ice blocks, we finally found ourselves on the open ridge and took turns in plowing through the snow half a metre deep looking for the C2 site.

The snow field on the west side of the ridge that we had had in mind to be our C2 site turned out to be impossible to approach because of a crevasse some 10 m wide running in parallel with the ridge. We ended up pitching the C2 right on the narrow ridge.

C2 - C3 (6600 m) 15 April - 18 April

After tracing the snow ridge for some time, we took our course on the eastern slope some 20 m below the ridge and continued traversing the 50-60 degree ice face with snow 10 centimetres deep. Ice screws were driven in each 30 m for the ropes to be fixed. Often obstructed by huge ice blocks, we had to change our course and went up and down trying to find a better route. Thus little by little we gained height on the ice face, which was only too hard for us to worry about its giving away.

Here on this ice block slope we did have a tough time of it. A monotonous repetition of a kick step and a blow of ice-axe, that was all there was to it, yet it was so exhausting that one would even ignore the duty to exchange messages on the transceicver at the arranged time.

When we found our way out of the ice block zone at last, we confronted a sheer ice wall some 30 m high on the west side. Having scaled this almost perpendicular face and driven the snow bar up on the top, no one would have wanted to move any more but to stoop down and pant for a while.

Before us there was a gentle snow slope and after 30 minutes’ walk up the slope we came to a level patch of snow, which we chose to be our C3 site. After the wind-blown ridge, this was like a heaven with a view, far below on the west, of the glacier lake and our tiny BC, and farther beyond a wide range of peaks extending as far as to Rolwaling Himal.

C3 - The Highest Point (7036 m) 18 April 18 - 19 April

Up until this time we acted under the system of ‘division of labour’, the four Nepanese members engaged in opening up of the routes and the three Japanese members carrying up the loads, yet from this day we were supposed to work together.

Right beside the tent is a steep snow wall 65 m high and 60 degrees inclined. Having scaled this wall with the help of two main ropes, we came to a patch of snow field that we used to call ‘the triangle plateau.’ This was the place we had intended to pitch the C3 before we found that wind blew all the time, violently there.

Snow was knee-deep and we plowed through it towards the northwest. Facing us on the east side was a sheer black rock cliff with a narrow snow ridge on the top, and, farther beyond, another ridge was visible that seemed to be leading to the summit.

From the snow field the route descends some 20 m down to the snow ridge on the black cliff, and with utmost care we traced the ridge which was much narrower than we had expected. It was a series of continual ups and downs. Finally we came to the foot of a snow wall to our right. Up to this point the route had been opened up the previous day by Shimizu and two Nepalese members. Also, this point was the place we had to retreat in 2001 because of soft snow.

The Sirdar and Shimizu hung on to the snow wall which seemed to be 50 degrees inclined and began fixing the rope. The other five followed and climbed up. Above this wall is a huge mass of rock whose shape looks somewhat like a claw of a crab as seen from below.

Having traversed the foot of the rock some 10 m leftward, we came to a gully and scaled up the narrow groove of ice and rock. Above the gully was another snow wall some 20 m high. We climbed it to the top and saw before us a long stretch of a snowy ridge leading to the summit. We were deeply moved by this impressive sight.

The snow ridge, comparatively wide on the west side but sharply cupped on the other side, looked level at first sight but turned out to be a series of small ups and downs.

Taking a detour to the left to avoid a small crevasse right below the peak, we ascended the last 100 m slope and finally we stood on the top, the seven of us, viz.,Shimizu, Morita, Fukuhara, Tul Bahadur, Ram Kaji, Hitman and Durga Rai. It was 12:10.

The top was unexpectedly narrow and the seven of us secured ourselves by fastening to a rock pin, exchanged messages with leader Shiro at the BC, and took our pictures with the two national flags and an O.E.A.C. banner tied to a rope. All too soon half an hour was spent there. Fog was creeping on.

We buried the national flags of both countries under the snow and left the summit. Having driven in an ice axe as a pivot and using a rope, we deliberately descended the slope.
It was 16:00 hours when all the members came back to C3. Everyone slept like a log after the 11-hour long activities and hearty fulfillment.

C1 - ABC

The following day, the 4 Nepalese members went down to ABC directly, while the 3 Japanese members spent the night at the C2 and came down to ABC the next day.

Gears used

 

Sponsors: Osaka Eiho Alpine Club

Team

JapaneseLeader: Shiro Takashi

Members:

Shimizu Kanji

Morita Tadashi

Fukuhara Katsuo

NepaleseSirdar: Tul Bahadur Tamang

H.A.P.:Ram Kaji Tamang

Hitman Tamang

Santaman Tamang

Liaison Officer: Sagar Achary

Summary: The first ascent of Hungchi (7036 m) in Nepal, by a Japanese expedition.

Panorama F-G

 

 

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