EDITORIAL

Article 8 (Mick Fowler)
Arwa Tower. Unclimbed northeast face.

Some years back I had applied for membership of the historic Asiatic Society in Bombay. As an Introducer, on the form J. C. Nanavati had to fill in ‘how many years known the applicant’. Without hesitation he wrote, ‘40 years’. Today as he retires as the President of the Himalayan Club and is elected its first President Emeritus, he can fill in a form as under: Member of the Himalayan Club for 41 years; Hon. Secretary, 21 years; President, 8 years. And hopefully, President Emeritus for a much longer period! The Club owes a lot to him and will look forward to his guidance as an elder statesman.

Dr. M. S. Gill, who takes over as the President of the Club, the first this Millennium, is someone with very steady values, and he brings these to the fore particularly in mountaineering affairs. Starting his interest in the mountains as a government official in Lahaul and Spiti, he continued with his love of the outdoors subse¬quently. For the last six years he was the President of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and was responsible for establishing many good traditions, specially in upholding the truth about mountaineering claims. Dr. Gill is the Chief Election Commissioner of India and brings with him a vast administrative experience. The Himalayan Club will be in good hands.

The Club for past few decades has operated from the office of J. C. Nanavati. Now plans have been made to move it into its own premises, for which support from members will be essential. The Club will be inviting patrons and younger members to pitch in to help and also to look for corporate support under the new management.

The present Journal concentrates, like always, on mountaineering issues (including mysticism), recalls memories like those of the ascent of Chhomolahri and the early travels to Tibet, covers major ascents like the one of Gya and attempts like the one on Burphu Dhura. The following pages also record several ascents and corrects past claims or records like the ascent of Mukut Parvat East.

A ‘Consolidated Index to H.J. Vols. 51-55’ is sent with this volume, making a consolidated record of all the past volumes avail¬able for an easy reference.

HARISH KAPADIA

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