EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

1. TRAGEDY ON ANNAPURNA IV
2. THE ASCENT OF CHOMOLHARI
3. ASCENT OF PUTHA HIUNCHULI
4. SPANISH EXPEDITION TO GURJA HIMAL
5. PASANG LHAMU CHULI (Josamba), 1996
6. THE FIRST ASCENT OF RATNA CHULI
7. EXPEDITION TO THE FORGOTTEN MOUNTAINS
8. MEIJI UNIVERSITY MANASLU EXPEDITION, 1997
9. BRITISH NANDA GHUNTI EXPEDITION, 1996
10. THE FREEDOM WALK
11. CHAUKHAMBA II, 1996
12. TELEMARK EXPEDITION OF TRISUL
13. NILGIRI PARVAT, 1994
14. DRAUPADI KA DANDA
15. SRIKANTA LADIES EXPEDITION, 1997
16. CB 11, 1997
17. CHAU CHAU KANG NILDA
18. THE FIRST ASCENT TO KULA
19. THE JAPANESE ALPINE CLUB K2 EXPEDITION, 1996
20. AN ACCOUNT OF THE CHILEAN EXPEDITION TO K2
21. THE TRAGEDY ON SKILBRUM
22. 1997 MALUBITING EXPEDITION

 

 

 

THIS MORNING I WAS DUSTED off Camp 1 (approximately 5400 m) by Lt. Colonel Lama and Major Thapa, colleagues of the Nepal Army chopper pilot who did the record rescue on Everest last spring. Other than one hour of slight clearing yesterday afternoon, this was the first feasible weather for such an attempt. Last night was the first night of three that heavy, wet snow was not falling at the rate of one and one-half meters plus per night. All stoves and pots had been covered up, so there was no way to melt snow to drink. I could not eat much and used all my available energy to continually dig out the tent that was my life haven.

When I heard the chopper, I hurriedly put on my seat harness, in case they had to winch me in, and put a few things in my day pack. After two observatory runs, they approached Camp 1 low from the east, and hovered with the runners just off the snow about 15 meters from the edge of the two- to three- meter deep hole where my tent was. They motioned for me to come to them and opened the right-hand door. I jumped and clawed my way out of the tent hole onto the sinking ambient snow surface. This was my one chance to live, and it was obvious they couldn't stay there very long. The swirling snow from the chopper made my objective barely visible. After a maximum effort of clawing and swimming on my belly, my hand finally grabbed a runner, and I did a pull-up and lunged onto the floor of the back seat. The door slammed shut, and we lifted up. I could taste the blood I was coughing up as I rose to a seat. I removed my day pack and put on the seat/shoulder belt.

The co-pilot asked, 'where do you want to go?'

'Kathmandu,' I said, feeling sad and guilty about leaving our four remaining team-mates to 'clean' the mountain. However, I realised I would present more of a liability than an asset, a danger and casualty to both them and myself. There would be important official business to take care of in Kathmandu and the sad task of informing the families of those two who died six meters away from me at about 5 a.m. on 4 October, before or when the VE-25 tent they were sleeping in collapsed under a heavy snow load.

We dropped quickly down onto the runway at Hongde to pick up the liaison officer of a failed one-man Finnish attempt (he had helped to arrange my dust-off) and an injured Australian trekker and his wife. When I arrived at Kathmandu airport, I was met by David Schensted, Consul, and Gary Berntsen, First Secretary for Political/Military Affairs, of the U.S. Embassy who took me to the medical clinic. Later at lunch in the wonderful hospitality of Gary and Rebecca's home, they told me that they had not been informed earlier of our expedition or of our plight, and they explained how much faster and surer my rescue might have been had I registered our team with the U.S. Embassy upon my arrival.

Nick Cofman, our team's newest and strongest member who spoke Nepali, and I arrived in Nepal on18 September to make initial arrangements and to secure final governmental permission. Then the rest of our seven-member team would arrive 20 September and we could all fly to Hongde, 3372 m, and directly below Annapurna IV base camp, on 21 September aboard a Russian MI-17 chopper. We bought substantial, additional necessary equipment, like perlon fixed line, pickets and epi gas canisters.

As both mountain leader and expedition doctor (I'm actually an optometrist and a trained army and high-altitude medic), I wanted to establish liaison with the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang, a one and one-half-hour walk upstream along the Marsyangdi river, which runs east on a line parallel and north of the Annapurna range crest. Upon arriving there we found them closed until October. The next day I carried a load up to 4390 m to where I thought base camp might be, at least by altitude, and Nick carried to the real base camp at 4665 m. The following night we got all equipment (some via donkey) and personnel to a camp above Birch Flats at about 3965 m, and we arrived at base camp early the following afternoon. It is the cleanest base camp of any world-class peak I have been to except for Peak Lenin. We found a Buddhist chorten and set up our cook tent inside a remaining rock shelter wall built below it.

The weather continued to be wonderfully warm and clear, and in the next two days, Nick Cofman and Mark Mitcheltree blazed a trail across the two-kilometre glacier moraine to the base of a steep scree slope that led to a wet, loose coulior and ended with a snowfield below our approximately 5400 m. Camp 1 Chad Alber, our expedition co-leader (administration), termed it 5.4 loose rock and snow, and we eventually put in fixed line over much of it. The aforementioned Finn and his Sherpas had warned us that much of their equipment and food caches had been ransacked by large birds and that no tent or other item could be left unattended. This was readily proven by finding Mark's hard hat, harness and other heavy, non-edible climbing equipment quite a few meters from where he had left them buried under rocks the previous day at the bottom of the coulior. Our old VE-24 was set up as a storage tent at Camp 1 for nonfood items, torn into by the birds and later repaired with duct tape. It helped save my life.

On 3 October we placed fixed line in the most difficult and dangerous places on the route to Camp 1 and we were busily stocking it for support of Camp 2, 6100 m where Nick and Mark had already buried some supplies. It had snowed about one-third meter and made the route to the Camp 1 easier, but the route to Camp 2 was nearly waist deep in snow near its end. Lightly falling snow made it more feasible to continue stocking Camp 1, where Nick and Mark had already slept six nights. We decided they would return to base camp, and some of the rest of us who had carried up, Rich Davidson, Debbie Marshall and myself, would sleep there to acclimatise and guard the camp against invading birds.

We conducted avalanche transceiver practice and then spent time in their tent late that afternoon. Debbie spoke of the risk/ reward balance between the laurel of being the first American woman to ascend Annapurna IV versus the possibility of her 16- month-old son losing his mother. Rich spoke of the love he and Claudette shared. I spoke of my declining membership on the '79 Annapurna I expedition because I alone was raising my 12- year-old daughter, and most attempts on that mountain had lost at least one person to objective danger. We ate supper together.

At midnight I woke up and shovelled the quickly falling, heavy, wet snow off and around from Rich and Debbie's VE-25 and did the same to my old VE-24. Earlier we had discussed the asphyxiation possibilities in the VE-25 should its vestibule become closed off, and when I suggested using the back entrance, they showed me that the zipper only opened from the bottom, not from the top like it did on the front of a VE-24. A zipper which opens from the top allows you to breathe in or escape from the tent when a meter of snow rapidly accumulates. Rich asked me to shovel out the Mega-mid that enclosed our cooking operation, but I replied that it was collapsed by the heavy snow, including a snapped centre pole, and that we would have to deal with it in the morning under daylight. It was now 1:30 a.m. on 4 October and before I returned to my tent and sleeping bag, Rich agreed to get up at about 2:30 or 3:00 a.m. and shovel off and out both our tents, which I heard him do. Debbie's turn would presumably come about 6:00 a.m.

I awoke at about 8:00 a.m. and knocked the snow off my tent from the inside. I made a radio call to Chad Alber, expedition co-leader, at base camp and told him that we had spent the night taking turns shovelling and that after we did a lot more, we might try our Sherpa snowshoes out on the now deep route to Camp 2. Chad and I agreed to another radio call at noon. Rich also had a radio, and I had heard him make the call the previous evening. That Rich had not participated in this morning's radio call meant they were still sleeping or something was wrong. I dressed and unzipped the top opening door of the VE- 24 and found a meter-high wall of consolidated snow which was laboriously pushed away until an escape was possible. I waded toward Rich and Debbie's tent. The sight of it collapsed and no human movement made apparent the tragedy that had occurred between 4:30 a.m. and 8:00 a.m. They had suffocated in their sleep before or after the heavy snow collapsed their tent. Their feet were toward the vestibule, so if they had become conscious when the tent collapsed, they still could not have escaped through it because one cannot crawl and claw feet first. The bottom opening zipper of the VE-25's back door would have opened toward a consolidated snow wall, and without a two-way zipper, it could not have allowed the upper vent hole that might have saved their lives as the top opening of the front door of my VE-24 had likely saved mine through ventilation and escape possibilities.

Initially I could only reach the bottom end of one sleeping bag through the collapsed vestibule. I frantically kept screaming their names and praying there might be SOME response! I pulled on the foot of the sleeping bag, and it came out of the tent, revealing a pair of stocking covered, cold feet with no ankle pulse. I could not pull their owner at all. By digging deeper and pulling away tent fabric, I revealed Rich's still warm head and upper trunk, and cold extremities. He had no neck pulse, and his pupils were fixed and dilated. Near black blood dripped from his nose and mouth.

By continued exhaustive digging and pulling away of tent fabric, I gained the foot of Debbie's sleeping bag. This time, instead of pulling on it, I unzipped the bottom of it and pulled it out via the cold feet inside. Debbie's body was in the same condition as Rich's, except that rigormortis had already set in her extremities. Her camera remained between her legs where she had placed it to keep the batteries warm. Another half-meter of heavy, wet snow fell during this time, and I was exhausted and soaked. My Moonstone Gortex parka had failed miserably, and my life partially depended on my staying dry while continuously shovelling the rapidly falling, wet snow. I grabbed Rich's The North Face Gortex parka, which fully did its job and helped save my life, some other clothes which I never used, and the other radio in case mine gave out.

During our noon radio contact, I relayed the shocking information that Rich and Debbie were dead and by what means to Chad, Mark and Tom. Chad was so blown away that he could not speak, and he gave the radio to one of the others. They agreed to keep their radio on so I could contact them at any time. We realised the route from the base camp to Camp 1 had become impassable because the fixed lines were buried and because extreme avalanche hazard existed. My only chance of survival would be if I could continue to shovel the ongoing, heavy snowfall without much water, food or sleep until it cleared enough for a hoped-for helicopter dust-off. Ang Kami, one of our Sherpas, was dispatched from base camp to Hongde to relay such a request to the army.

Shovelling snow off and around my tent until exhaustion and darkness, I crawled in, changed into drier clothes and tried to sleep. But I was too afraid to. I prayed for help and for guidance that I would hear, recognise and obey immediately. I got guidance that my sleeping arrangement must be turned around, so that my head was at the door, and that all vents must be maximally open for air circulation without allowing in snow or liquid. I set my watch alarm to go off in one and one-half hours. Whereupon I dressed, and a two-hour snow shovelling began. I repeated this throughout the night. Base camp urged me to dig for the stove and the pot in Nick's tent or the trashed Mega-mid so I could make water, but it was too great a gamble. It would involve the energy of swimming through deep snow, then guessing where to dig the three-meter deep exploratory hole.. and likely missing. Or if a stove and pot were found, I might burn up my tent and myself in my weak, fumbling state. A couple partially filled water-bottles had been salvaged from Rich and Debbie's tent. Between those and my warm urine diluted with snowballs, I bet on getting by until the weather cleared and warm sun could melt snow placed in dark plastic bottles or a helicopter could arrive.

Base camp reported one and one-half meters of still-falling snow. They dispatched another Sherpa, Ang Gelu, on snowshoes to Hongde to make sure the helicopter rescue was set for first clearing and to ride with them on their first flyby to locate Camp 1 for them. Not knowing if my death would come before first clearing, I sat down to write Karon a last letter on my one piece of paper, my professional card in the top of my pack. Huge avalanches were raining down all around Camp I, and I began to feel like a mouse, kept alive and tormented by a cat for a long time before its death and consumption. I almost envied Rich and Debbie for having died, probably quickly and easily, through suffocation in their sleep. I prayed and cried. That night it cleared, and I slept some.

I wait in Kathmandu hoping for the safe return of the others.

Summary : An account of an ill fated American expedition to Annapurna IV (7525 m) in October 1996, It was sponsored by Colorado Mountain Club.

 

 

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FOR A DECADE from 1981 to 1990, the Nagano Mountaineering Association and the Chinese Mountaineering Association (C.M.A.) had joint meetings to study the skills for joint mountain climbing. Member of the two mountaineering associations visited with each other for these meetings. Such efforts and been continuing even today, and bore fruits in many ways.

In order to commemorate the past joint efforts and also with an expectation to further deepen the friendship and trust, the C.M.A. proposed us a joint expedition to Chomolhari.

Because the Indian border was in close proximity of Chomolhari, foreign climbers were not allowed to get into the area. Due to this reason, it has never been attempted before from the Tibetan side.

The attempt by the joint party to climb Chomolhari from the Tibetan side resulted in a great success with all participants (25 members including and corporate members) successfully reaching the summit.

The Outline of the Actions

 

Notes

1. Chomolhari is a very beautiful mountain, which local people call 'A Fairy's Peak'.
2. Chomolhari was climbed twice in the past: in 1937 and 1970. No records of those two attacks were available to us. This time, we followed the route via the southern edge from the Tibetan side. The edge is a border between Bhutan and China.
3. From BC to C1, we climbed on a meadow and moraine beside a glacial lake, and then went up the glacier with lots of seracs.
4. From C1 to C2, we passed through an icefall which was 200 m high, climbed the snowfield and reached a col on the border line. It was very foggy at the col.
5. From C2 to C3, we had to climb a big wall covered with snow to reach the southern edge. We followed the edge. We fixed rope throughout the entire route. We set up C3 behind a serac.
6. From C3 to the summit, we climbed a steep edge. We had to traverse at one spot which was just like the knife-edge. The summit was long and narrow, and was covered with new snow.

Summary: The Japan-China Chomolhari Joint Expedition 1996. Period : August-September, 1996

Sponsor : The Nagano Mountaineering Association. The Chinese Mountaineering Association.

Members : JAPAN — Party leader: Yoshihiko Miyamoto, Deputy leader: Makoto Yamada, Climbing members: Akira Hiratsuka, Yukihiko Kato, Atsushi Mio, Dakao Doi, Shinsaku Tanaka, Takuya Matsutani.

CHINA — The person responsible: Zhang Jiang Tuan, Climbing leader: Luo Shen, Members: Kun Sang, Kai Cun, Tenzin Dorji, Jio cuo, Jiji. Corporate members and Official 18 people. To climb Chomolhari (7325 m). Summit reach on 8 and 10 September 1996.

 

 

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THIS EXPEDITION WAS conceived by our team as part of our preparations to climb Everest in 1998. We were looking for a peak in Nepal in the region of 7000 metres and not particularly technical. We found that Putha Hiunchuli or Dhaulagiri VII ( D7 ) had not been climbed by its original route since 1954 when Jimmy Roberts climbed it as part of his reconnaissance of the Dhaulagiri region.

As the western most peak of this chain, D7 presented some interesting climbing in a remote sector of Nepal, some fascinating history and a route whose details were not entirely clear from our research. As such, this mystery added some spice to the whole venture. The route would take the northeast face.

The team from Singapore comprised myself, Dr Y.J. Mok, Dr, S.Yogethiran ( or 'Yogen' ), S.C Khoo and Robert Goh. With the exception of Yogen, all of us had Himalayan climbing experience.

26-29 September:

After clearing formalities in Kathmandu and providing a briefing to the indefatigable Ms Liz Hawley, we left for Nepalgunj, a humid, malaria-infested border town. Here, we festered for two days whilst waiting for not only clear weather for the Russian-made MI-17 helicopters to fly us to our trailhead but also for the chartered helicopters to settle a dispute with the Department of Civil Aviation. This dispute centred around the department's objection to the operators carrying both cargo and passengers.¹

 

It was also here that we met up with our Sherpa team who had travelled overland. They comprised MB Tamang, a 2-time Everester, Mingma Sherpa and Lila Tamang.Our liaison officer was a well-educated tourism official, Kharel Krishna.

We eventually landed in Dunai ( 2200 m ), the administrative centre of western Dhaulagiri.

30 September — 3 October

The approach to D7 entailed a 4-day march eastwards along the Bheri khola, taking in small hamlets like Tarakot (2600 m) and Tashigaon. I am the only one ill, nursing a high fever on the trek -in. At Tarakot, we give a donation to the Sagarmatha school to enable them to purchase new benches and to build a toilet for the school.

The poverty of the region becomes acutely apparent when we camp at Kakkot, the last of the hamlets before we move onto steeper ground, swinging southwards to trek up into the river gorge of the Khaya khola. This hamlet probably saw expeditions pass through only infrequently. Here the villagers were suspicious and sour-faced. But we were quickly inundated with villagers seeking 'cures' for their sick. Many had vague, non-clinical ailments. We did attempt to also advise and help a mother with a sick, malnourished child but it was too late and the child died that night. An abandoned school was also noted, its teacher having left the desolate hamlet for a better life elsewhere.

We hired a few yaks and yak herders. Together with our small band of porters, we moved upward in deteriorating conditions to the Pangsi la.

We camped at about 3100 m. 4-7 October

It began snowing heavily that morning as we progressed upwards to the Pangsi la (4700 m). Here we met with a French commercial team comprising 6 professional mountain guides, one climber, and 6-7 climbing Sherpas. The Allibert team forged quickly ahead with their loads on horses, hoping to meet up with a small advance party who had been there a week earlier; establishing their base camp.

At the pass, Khoo was having problems breathing and the first signs of HAPE were evident. He descended with MB Tamang and Yogen whilst we forged on to the German camp at 4100 m. Snow was still falling and was knee deep in many places. Night, I too, had breathing difficulties but these were fortunately solved by Mok prescribing some Adalat, a vasodilator. A French tent also collapsed that night - making for a very miserable day for all. The weather cleared a bit the following morning, 5 October revealing bits of blue sky and we rested, hoping to reach the 'real' base camp further up the Khaya khola. Khoo rejoined us later that day, feeling better.

On the 5th, some of the team attempt to break trail to the true base camp but turn back after four hours owing to deep and difficult snow conditions. On the 6th, the French advance party retrace their steps and rejoin their team mates at our camp. We move up on the 7th and only then, after some hours does D7 reveal itself.

Base camp was a pleasant site overshadowed partly by the huge west face of Churen Himal. This meant days where the sun only struck BC between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., after which. BC became cold. A stream provided water after the snow crust was broken up.

8-13 October

The well financed and equipped French team began to reestablish themselves on the 8th. A previous big camp of theirs was avalanched off during the period of bad weather we encountered. Equipped with snow shoes, they made easy work of the awkward crusted snow on the moraine approach to Camp 1 (5300 m ). Here, we split into two teams with Mok, Robert and the 2 Sherpas advancing the camps and Lila and the rest in support. We established Camp 1 on 8th October and Camp 2 ( 5900 m) on 10th; ferrying load twice. By this time, Yogen was forced to retire to Kakkot with Krishna due to complications arising from a high fever and his incipient asthma.

The route up the northeast face was uncrevassed. At least all previously open crevasses were closed when we were there. The route from C1 (on the moraines) took a gradually steepening snow buttress flanked on either side by steep cliffs. C2 lay above and beyond the horizon (see picture and diagram attached). After this buttress, the angle relented to about 30 degrees.

I spent the night at C2 with Khoo on the 12th. The 4-strong advance team were at Camp 3 (established the same day at 6300 m). I was concerned that C3 was too low and preferred it to be at least 6500 m. However, the advance team members were fatigued and we agreed on a plan for them to summit in the following days.

A windstorm whipped up that night and the spindrift nearly buried our tent. The team above us were faring worse, with four squeezed into a 3-man tent. The wind gusted up to 150 km/h and we got no sleep.

The 13th was no better with the evening storms pinning us down. Both the advance team and my two-man party decided to spend another day acclimatising at our respective camps. Communications by walkie-talkie broke the tedium.

14-19 October

On the 14th, the weather relented but it was still windy. The advance team descended to base camp to recuperate. With C3 vacated, Khoo and I decided to move up to C3 on the 15th. The route was easily angled and we climbed unroped. In fact, everyone on our team and the French team were climbing unroped as the ground was easy. However, the deep crust and soft snow made certain sections tedious and exhausting. I reached C3 at noon, just as another afternoon storm broke. The tent at C3 had to be partially dug out as the heavy snows had buried up to a third of its height. Khoo joined me later, after having difficulty in the storm and appeared exhausted and slightly hypothermic. I began brewing up whilst we waited for MB and Mingma to join us later. They had earlier agreed to come up from base camp that morning and were due at C3 by 6 p.m. MB joined us at 6 p.m. and Mingma at 3.30 a.m. (he had climbed from C2) the following morning (16th).

The 16th was summit day and we started fairly late - at 6.45 a.m. The northeast face is broad and fairly featureless until quite high on it. Then the slight curve to the east.ridge can be discerned. The easy angled slopes were made difficult by the unstable crust which slowed down our progress somewhat. Weaving our way between patches of firm snow, we pressed on in clear conditions until we reached the summit at 12.30 p.m. The summit was free of the usual mess of wands and prayer flags found on more popular peaks. The whole approach and descent of the face would be hazardous in low visibility or heavy snow. According to Ms Hawley's records, the French ascent was the third, and ours was probably the 4th ascent of D7 by the northeast face.

On the summit, MB stripped of his wind jacket so that he could don his traditional Tamang shirt, waistcoat and hat for a summit photo. A creditable feat as it was consistently -15 degrees throughout the day !

We returned to C3 at 3.30 p.m. and Khoo decided to press on ahead to BC by himself. Mingma accompanied him until C2.

17-24 October

We stripped and cleaned all the camps and descended all the way to BC on the 17th. Feeling well and acclimatised, Robert (from our advance team) decided to climb D7. Accompanied by MB, they left BC on the 18 th and climbed the route alpine-style, with one night at 6000 m and returned to BC in a 36-hour round trip on the 19th.

We left BC on the 20th, burning and burying such rubbish that we could and carrying down the rest like the empty gas canisters.

Two incidents worthy of mention on the return was that the Kakkot villagers had turned from being merely sour to positively aggressive, demanding that we hire them as porters (at a rate three times the usual), threatened to block our path back to Dunai and, even threatened the safety of our Sherpas. This resentment was triggered by our hiring of yaks from one family - which would of course receive coveted cash in an essentially barter economy. The village policemen stood by without assisting in what could have turned out to be an ugly situation. In the end, several porters were hired after their families fought over the rights to porter our equipment.

Considering the last D7 expedition to this side of the peak was in 1978, future expeditions to these parts, may well be warned that obtaining porters or help is difficult and the amenities available in the Everest and Annapurna regions are simply nonexistent here.

The second, and more pleasant incident was our discovery at Tarakot. As promised, our cash donations on the outbound leg were immediately acted upon and we were happy to find a fully completed stone toilet and new benches at the school - a lasting benefit.

We reached Dunai on the 24th, only to find that our chartered helicopter would be landing at Juphal ( a day's walk west ) instead! By this time, out excellent weather window had closed. We trekked the remaining distance on the 25th as storms up high heralded another low front. The rain at lower altitudes and cloud cover meant cancelled flights. I later discovered that this same bad weather killed two elderly American trekkers and their Sherpa team in Dolpo not very far from our trekking route.

We spent two days in the bug-infested village of Juphal until we were helicoptered back to Pokhara and thence to Kathmandu on the 28th.

Members: David Lim (leader), S.C. Khoo, Dr Y.J. Mok, Dr S. Yogenthiran (Yogen) and Robert E.K. Goh, with Man Bahadur Tamang, Mingma Sherpa and Lila Bahadur Tamang.

Summary : An ascent of Putha Hiunchuli (7246 m) The peak was climbed by northeast face, on16 October 1996 by a team from Singapore.

Photos 28-29

 

 

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FROM 25 AUGUST UNTIL 4 October 1996 took place the first Spanish expedition to the Gurja Himal (7193 m.). This mountain is located in the Dhaulagiri region, close to Churen Himal, and Dhaulagiri VI.

It is always difficult to choose a mountain for an expedition, because there are many aspects that have to be considered. Our preferences were to climb a remote peak in a remote area, away from the more and more crowded mountains of central Nepal. We wanted a mountain that would require a fairly long trekking, so that we could at least grasp the Nepali way of life in the countryside. We were looking for a mountain in the low 7000 m, with some technical climbing, but that would not require great exposure. With so many constrictions it is not surprising that it took us several months to find the right mountain. Finally, Gurja Himal, located in an area with very few expeditions and which had not been climbed since 1989, was our election.

The group was formed by six climbers, a doctor, a scientist and a companion. The trekking started in Baglung, in the Kali Gandaki valley, 30 August, with almost 60 porters. Due to the time of the year in which we trekked, beginning of September — when the monsoon season is not over yet, we had rain every day during the march. However, we were confident that by the time we were on the mountain the weather would improve.

The march to base camp lasted 10 days. We followed the Kali Gandaki river up to Beni. From there we went through the Myangdi Khola valley for several days. We arrived to Gurja Gaon (2600 m.), the last village on the trekking trail on 5 September. From there we could see the snow peaks for the first time, since they had been hidden by the clouds. The view of the south face of the Gurja Himal and Gustung South really impressed us. In two days from Gurja Gaon we crossed the Budzunge Bara pass, with an elevation of 4500 m, which took us into the high mountains kingdom.

The BC was established at 4350 m, on the left side of the Kaphe valley, on the meadows formed in the outer part of a lateral moraine of the Kaphe glacier. There are several places in the valley to put the camp. The first Japanese expedition, in 1969, put it lower, at 4100 m. Our camp was higher in the valley, what represented an advantage for both, to carry the equipment to C1 and for the radio communications during the entire expedition. However, we had to go down almost 100 m to the Kaphe glacier to get fresh water, that represented some inconvenience. This camp is the same for Churen Himal, Dhaulagiri VI, and Gurja Himal.

Since we got to B.C. one of the climbers (Madej) became sick. He suffered of pneumonia in both lungs. Since he didn't improve after several days of medication, and due to the fact that he had to go up through Budzunge Bara in order to get down into the lowlands, we decided to ask for an evacuation. We sent a mail runner to Dhorpatan, from where he could ask, by radio to Kathmandu, for a helicopter. On 13 September he was evacuated, being accompanied by other member (I. Fern). It had been the first time a helicopter had landed in the Kaphe valley. Besides the big upset that represented this evacuation, it also meant that from that moment the climbing team was reduced to four members: maybe too few to succeed on our mountain.

The climb followed the route of the 1969 Japanese expedition during the first ascent to the peak. The ascent to C1 followed the left side of the rocky Kaphe glacier. Around 4800 m an icefall with big crevasses and seracs interrupted the glacier, making us leave it and enter on a section with big rock slabs. There we had to fix 40 m of rope. After a short ascent through loose rocks we reached the place for C1. It was established at 4950 m, and we spent our first night in the camp on 14 September.

We did several ferries up to C2, at (5800 m). This camp was finally set up on 18 September. It was located on a ridge, just on the top of a rocky buttress that expands from 5000 m up to 5750 m. During the climb of this buttress it was necessary to do some technical climbing, mainly on the higher part. There are some III and IV grade sections. There we found fixed ropes from previous expeditions, but most of them had to be replaced since they were in very bad condition. It had been 7 years since the last ascent to Gurja Himal, and some of the ropes looked from the 1969 Japanese expedition. We replaced most of them and put almost 500 m of new ropes from C1 to C2.

The view from C2 was impressive, both to the higher part of the mountains and down to the valley. We could see the BC, the entire route we had already climbed and that we still had ahead of us, the Churen Himal, Putha Hiunchuli, Dhaulagiri VI, Gurja Himal and Gustung North. The sunset we enjoyed from the balcony where C2 was situated was, for all of us, one of the best we have ever seen.

From C2 we had to descend almost 100 m down to a plateau which was 3 km long. We had carried snow-rackets for this section, but we found them worthless. The snow was hard and we didn't have any problem crossing it. The plateau took us to the bottom of the Gurja Himal pyramid. As soon as the slope became steeper we found very deep snow, which made the ascent very strenuous. We had planned to establish C3 at 6300 m, but the snow condition delayed us and we had to put it at 6100 m. C3 was established on 19 September on the NW side of the pyramid.

The following day, with good but very cold weather, we left C-3 for the summit at 4 a.m. The snow condition remained similar to the previous day, making the progress extremely arduous. By 11 a.m. we reached the west ridge, at 6800 m, which leads to the summit. It took us seven hours and most of our strength to climb these seven hundred metres. From the west ridge we could see the impressive south face of the Gurja Himal, of more than 3000 m, which remains unclimbed. Further to the south we could see the green lowlands of Gurja Gaon, 4000 m lower and less than 15 km away, where the monsoon season was getting over.

Once on the ridge the snow condition improved slightly, but not enough to let us recover from our extenuation. We decided to split. Two of the climbers (Garc and Mart) returned to C-3 due to the deep snow. The two others (Nicol and J.L. Fern) kept climbing the ridge. Some short technical sections were found in the higher part of the ridge, although it wasn't necessary for the use of the rope. At 2 p.m. Pedro Nicol, the team leader, reached the summit where he stayed for a few minutes. He was very close to his own physical limit.

On the descent he met Jos L. Fern, who was still struggling with the deep snow on the ridge. Due to the time of the day, the distance he still had ahead to the summit, and his fatigue, he decided to turn around and go down with Nicol. After a short rappel Fern fell more than 300 m through the steep north face, creating a snow avalanche. Due to the deep snow he suffered minor injures. Both climbers reached C3 by 6 p.m.

The next day the four climbers descended from C3 to BC. Early in the morning of 26 September the porters arrived at the BC, as we had arranged previously. We started the return that sunny morning, leaving behind several weeks of uncertainty, illusions, effort, and joy. We reached Baglung four days later.

Members : Pedro Nicol (leader), Inmaculada Fern, Jose L. Fern, Salvador Garc, Javier Madej, Juan Mart, Miriam Ferrer (doctor), Eduardo Mart (geographer) and Javier Ferreira.

Summary: An ascent of Gurja Himal (7193 m) by a Spanish team on 20 September 1996.

Photo 30

 

 

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PASANG LHAMU CHULI (7351 m) is one of five new peaks opened for foreign expeditions in June 1995. The location of this peak is about 5 km west-southwest of Cho Oyu and the height of this peak is 7351 m. It was not easy for us to identify the peak with this mysterious name. Soon we learned it was the peak known as Cho Aui and was already climbed from the Tibetan side in 1986 by a Himalayan Association of Japan's expedition.

In the post-monsoon season of last year, a Korean expedition tried this peak from the Nepalese side but they were forced to retreat at the height of 6900 m. This peak also has two other names; Josamba I and Nangpai Gosum I.

Our expedition in 1996, sponsored by the Osaka Alpine Club aimed at climbing this peak from the south or the east ridge. On 6 September the first flight, after an irritating wait in Kathmandu thanks to the prolonged monsoon this year, brought us to Shangboche and we stayed for three days at Everest View Hotel which my friend Mr. Miyahara is managing, Then we proceeded to Thame village, where we spent more 7 days at our Sirdar Ang Phurba's lodge for rest and acclimatisation.

Started for Chhule on 16 September and settled our base- camp (5400 m) on the central moraine of Nampa la glacier. Climbing gear and food of about 1.5 tons had already been carried up to BC by a few Sherpas and local porters prior to our arrival. As the nearest couloir, which directly led to southern col (5720 m), and Korean couloir up to 6650 m col, were both washed out by incessant big avalanches, we decided to change our route without hesitation to the west ridge. We placed advance base-camp at 5600 m, at the foot of the west ridge near Nampa la.

On 23 September we began to make a long route to get to the 6739 m peak. After a week, on 1, October we and pitched Camp 1 (6700 m) on the ridge just passed over this peak. Then, a temporary Camp 2 was placed near the second col (6250 m) on 9 October. The next 3 days were spent in putting 7 pitches of fixed rope on the knife-edged ridge called coxcomb. It turned out to be the most difficult stage of the expedition.

On 13 October the first summit push was done from the temporary Camp 2, but failed mainly because lack of fixed rope and snow-bars. All six members including 4 climbing Sherpas got down to BC for rest and supply.

The second stage of the climb began on 17 October. Next day, after struggling across long a traverse, we could place Camp 2 on the snow hump just behind Triangular Rock Peak (7100 m). As two climbing Sherpas returned in bad physical condition mid-way, the remaining three occupied Camp 2. 19 October it was splendidly clear and the temperature fell to -20°C. The proposed direct ridge route to the summit was abandoned because of the difficulty in passing through overhanging rocks. However, we found an alternative route, traversing to the right side. It seemed to be the most feasible route to avoid rock obstacles and get to the summit ridge. Three members, M. Taniguchi, T. Kitamura and a Sherpa, left Camp 2 at 7.00 a.m. After a few pitches climbing up steep snow ridge, Sherpa got out of the party with too much fatigue. Then we traversed about 300 m to the right and were lucky enough to get to the last summit ridge, from where direct climbing up more three pitches led us to the real summit. We reached the top at noon.

The highest point was so small, an ice pyramid, we could only hold it with arms, not stand on it. We enjoyed unexpected close view of Everest and lot of high peaks around us.

Members: Tamotsu Ohnishi (leader 54), Mamoru Taniguchi (48), Keiko Nishihira (44) Takehiko Yanagihara (35) and Toshiyuki Kitamura (34)

Summary: An ascent Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7351 m) of by a Japanese team on 19 October 1996.

Photos 31-32

 

 

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THIS EXPEDITION WAS ORGANISED by The Academic Alpine Club of Shinshu and Nepal Police Mountaineering and Adventure Foundation.

The year of 1994 and 1996 were both commemorative for fellow members of The Academic Alpine Club of Shinshu.

We accomplished two successful ascents of virgin peaks over 7000 m in Nepal Himalaya. The one was M2 Gyaji Kang (7038 m) in autumn 1994 and another was M2 Ratna Chuli (7035 m) in 1996. We started studies for our next Himalayan expedition in 1992 and our first target was the north ridge of M2 Annapurna II as one of the most difficult variation route. The reconnaissance and trial climbing in 1992 and 1993, however, showed the danger of frequent rock falls and avalanches at the approach in the lower slopes.

At the same time, we also studied the other Himalaya mountains located around the beginning of the Phu khola (the Phu Chu valley), the upper stream of the Nar khola one of the branch streams of the Marsyangdi river. These were to the northwest of the Himlung Himal massif and the area of Peri Himal lay far way on the watershed range between the Ganges in India and the Tsangpo in Tibet without any climbing parties visiting it for long time since the Himalayan pioneer, H. W. Tilman, made an exploration in the region in 1950. We found that Hokkaido University party (The Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Expedition autumn 1983) had succeeded in the first ascent of Himlung Himal (North Peak, 7126 m) at the time of our reconnaissance in 1992. It was one of the peaks we submitted in the application at that time.

We proposed a joint expedition with Nepal Police Mountaineering and Adventure Foundation (NPMAF). We had planned several climbing activities to attempt both ML Gyaji Kang ('Himulung Himal West Peak' on the formal application form) and Ratna Chuli (Peri Himal main peak). After several communications with NPMAF, joint-climbing parties were formed.

Approach

Four members of the expedition team from Shinshu University entered Nepal on21 August and another four on 1 September.

We left Kathmandu on 6 September in three buses (two of them for the porters) and two trucks. On the way we discovered that monsoon had flooded a river which washed out the highway, making it impossible to drive any further than Dhumre.

On 7 September, we organised a caravan made up of 178 porters. We left Besi Sahar on September 10 and caravan moved along the Marsyangdi river in the rain.

We arrived at Koto, the entrance to the Nar khola, on 14 September. We were able to spend nights in the lodges located along the Marsyangdi road so far.

On 15 September, we replaced some of the porters and marched into the Nar khola. The lower stream of the Nar khola becomes a very steep valley. Landslides and the collapse of the rocky base of the path blocked our entrance to the gorge. Because falling rocks could be dangerous, we were all stressed when we managed to pass through the gorge.

On 18 September, we arrived at Phugaon 4000 m. We were surprised to see homes standing at the very end of overhanging terrace on the right side of the river. It was really unusual sight.

On 19 September, we passed the end of the Panguri glacier which flows from both Gyaji Kang and Nemjung (the highest main peak of Himlung Himal, 7139 m) which was first successfully ascended by Hirosaki University who scaled its southeastern end through Dudh khola in autumn 1983. On the same day we reached Panguri-kharka (4600 m) on the left shore of the Phu khola.

On 20 September, we set up our base camp (5200 m) at a tableland located on the right shore of the Phu left-branch.

Challenges to the summit

We had a close view of Himlung Himal (North Peak, 7126 m) on one side of BC. A party from Hokkaido University had accomplished the first ascent of this mountain. From the top of the moraine (5400 m) just above the BC, we could see the graceful Ratna Chuli.

We followed the moraine and a abrasion valley on the right shore of the left-side glacier and established the advance base camp (ABC, 5500 m) at a point where the glacier met another one from the col on the south ridge of Ratna Chuli's western peak. By 26 September, we had almost completed carrying our loads up the ABC. On the next day, however, snow began to fall and it did not stop until 29 September. We utilised this forced 3-day stay for doing more acclimatisation exercises. Meanwhile at the BC, Pemba Tsering, our kitchen helper, became paralysed on his right side. Although we called for a helicopter to rescue him, adverse weather prevented his being picked up until 1 October. Fortunately, he made a good recovery and came to see us in good health on our return to Kathmandu.

On 30 September, we attempted our first try for the summit. The six climbers of the first summit party were, Tanabe, Uchida, Ale, Nul, Dulga and Tulu.

Before returning to the ABC, they had climbed the south ridge of the western peak, creating a route through a vast snowfield reaching the col of the ridge where we planned to construct C1. It took 5 pitches of fixed ropes between ABC and C1.

On 1 October, after setting up C1, the first summit party completed the rest of the route they had set up the day before along the south ridge. This south ridge required 19 pitches of fixed rope.

On 2 October, they reached the western peak (6600 m). When this work was completed, the party descended fixing 3 more pitches of rope from the western peak pointing toward the main peak and reaching the spot where we had planned to set up C2, using snow-bars all through. The party then returned to C1. Because the weather began to deteriorate on 3 October, they decided to postpone the first attempt. They left C1 and returned to BC. Bad weather continued till 5 October with snowfall even at the BC.

Although the storm ended and weather improved on 6 October, we refrained from doing any activity taking into consideration fresh heavy snow.

On 7 October, the same party once again challenged the summit. They climbed up to C1 through the ABC, and on the next day set up C2 (6550 m). 9 October looked fine despite strong winds. Still the party waited until 7.00 a.m. before leaving C2 to descend the steep slope leading to a col to the main summit (6400 m) on the west ridge. At the steepest part, 3 pitches of rope had been fixed. The col itself was a wide plateau. Fixing ropes on a hard, crusted snow-wall, the party ascended from the col toward the main peak.

When the party was within 100 m of the summit the physical condition of Uchida became bad and there were also short of ropes. The Nepalese members were reluctant to climb one-at-a- time and insisted on returning. Thus, the second challenge was over.

We knew that the third attempt would be our last opportunity since time was running out. We could not afford to make mistakes on our last attempt. We had divided into 3 parties so far. But, when it came to this point, we reduced the members of the first summit party to three (Tanabe, Ale and Tul), and chose six members to act as support. Among six supporters, Sawada and Durga were in charge of supporting the summiters above C2. Because no problems developed, these two members were able to join the first summit party.

The rest of the members gathered at C2, so each could join either the second or third party to make the summit.

The fine weather continued after 6 October. On 11 October, at C2, we watched the passage of migrating cranes. We were deeply moved by the cranes flying in various formations against the shining azure sky above.

On 12 October, the first summit party and support party left BC. They climbed up to C1 via ABC on 13 October. On 14 October at 7.00 a.m., 5 members (Tanabe, Ale, Tul, Sawada and Durga) left C2 and successfully made the summit at 12.10 p.m. It took 3 pitches of rope from the spot where they had given up the ascent to the summit last time. (Total 18 pitches of fixed rope between C2 and the summit.) Thus, they were standing on the top of Ratna Chuli, a 'jewel peak' of which we had long dreamt. The summiters returned to C2 at 15.30, and returned to the BC on 15 October.

On 16 October, the second summit party (Watanabe, Nomura, Hanatani, Joshi, Nuru and Ful) successfully ascended to the summit. The weather was in our favour; it was fine and the wind was mild. In the far north the view of Loinbo Kangri (Lungpo Gangri) in Trans-Himalaya could be seen, and to the south four mountains of the Himlung Himal massif on the other side of the valley of the Phu khola could be seen. Behind them were the majestic figures of the Great Himalayan Mountains including Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.

On 18 October, the third summit party (Uchida, Kaneko, Kobayashi, Sivakoti and Damber) succeeded in ascending to the summit. With this ascent, all members had climbed up to the summit of Ratna Chuli.

On 19 October, we returned to BC. We reached Kathmandu, after some difficulties en route, on 3 November.

Members: General leader: Masao Nomura, Japanese leader: Mitsunori Watanabe, Japanese climbing leader: Osamu Tanabe, Japanese members : Tetsuo Kaneko, Katsuhiko Sawanda, Kenichi Uchida and Yasuhiro Hanatani and Shigemoto Kobayashi, Nepalese leader : Gupta Bahadur Rana, Nepalese climbing leader : Gita Bahadur Joshi, Nepalese members : Ramkaji Sivakoti.

Summary: The first ascent of Ratna Chuli (7035 m) by a Japanese-Nepalese joint expedition. All the members reached the summit in three parties on 12, 16 and 18 October, 1996.

Photos 33 to 36

 

 

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DURING SEPTEMBER and October 1997 an Austrian expedition tried the first climb of the Raksha Urai (C 6650m) in the Api-Saipal Himal in the far western Nepal. Due to the catastrophic weather conditions this Himalayan autumn the expedition failed. But nevertheless, the group was, based on our information, the first expedition to reach this extreme remote area south of the Urai pass at the border to Tibet.

First expedition in this part of the Api - Saipal Himal

The expedition started from Chainpur, the main town of the Bahjang district in far western Nepal. From here, during the last decades, only a few expeditions were approaching Saipal Himal, but no mountaineers explored the mountains east of the Saipal Himal, like Suma Sarowar Lekh, the Bankya Lekh or Raksha Urai. So, after five days of trekking, we reached a small police-station at a village called Dhulli. It is the last village on the old trade-path to the Urai pass at the Tibetan border. Here the policemen told us, that never an expedition came through this valley, since the border-station has opened in the sixties.

We even knew, that our expedition was the first attempt to climb Raksha Urai, but that the whole area had remained still untouched, was a big surprise. So, for the future, there is a lot to explore and discover for the next expeditions, as well as to take care of such an pristine area.

Trek to Base Camp

To Dhulli, it has been an attractive trek with a lot of ups and downs through a very origin landscape with dense forests and only a few villages. We needed five more days to reach our proposed base camp on the east side of Raksha Urai. The landscape became wilder and wilder with mighty cascades and deep gorges. Especially the gorge between Dahachaur and Goranphu was the most selecting part of the base camp trek and extremely endangered by avalanches after snowfall. The base camp was situated on a wide pasture at an elevation of only 4100 m. It was the choice of our Sirdars Karna Bahadur Gurung and Jetta Raj from Himalayan Sherpa Nepal, who had explored the area during 1997. There would be other possibilities to set up base camps more to the south at Goranphu to attack the southern summits of Raksha Urai in the valley of the Salimor khola to attack the west side of the mountain. But this valley is completely unexplored and had no trail.

Details about Raksha Urai

We knew almost nothing about the mountain when we started from Austria. The well known Himalayan expert, Miss Elisabeth Hawley, gave us a first useable map (Japanese origin) and after the expedition we discovered other different maps. So today, after our experiences in the area and based on the studies of the maps we maintain, that nobody can exactly say, which mountains belong to the Raksha Urai group or not! So we present two versions :

1. In our opinion best map from PLANCHES (1958/59) devides the mountains in three groups:

(a). Two southern summits are named as Raksha Urai. The 'Raksha Urai South' and the 'Raksha Urai North' (both c. 6650 m).

(b). Three summits north of the Raksha Urai are part of a chain called Yokapahar Himal, to which also the famous Nampa belongs. So two summits have names belonging to the Nampa-chain, the more southern 'N5' (next to Raksha Urai north summit) and the more northern 'N6'. The third summit is marked as a nameless mountain, north of N6 and south of N7, which even belongs to the next valley-system and so N7 could not be seen from our base camp.

(c) One mountain, east of the Yokapahar Himal, is part of the 'Urai Lekh'.

2. The fact is that these six mountains are the six main- summits of this area. But we prefer another classification. Because in our opinion, these summits are all part of one group. For example especially the col between Raksha Urai North and N3 is not significant, compared to the col between the north and south summit. And especially the nameless summit is very impressive. So we count all major summits as of Raksha Urai group, classified from Raksha Urai I to VI.

Raksha Urai I ('South Summit'): very steep and impressive mountain. Characterised by sharp and steep rocky ridges and huge cornices in the summit area. Best route: no ideal route was identified, because we could not see the lower parts of the mountain. But the summit should be attacked from a base camp near Goranphu (approx. 15 km southeast of our base camp site, on the trail to Urai Pass. Altitude : c. 6600 m.

Raksha Urai II ('North Summit'): also very steep rock mountain with two peaks. Very long and wild rocky ridges. Best route: no ideal route was identified, but maybe the long southeast ridge is possible. The summit can be attacked from Goranphu as well as from our base camp site. Altitude: c. 6600 m.

Raksha Urai III ('N5') : massive rocky mountain with three significant ridges. Best route : either the rocky north ridge or the east ridge (short but extremely corniced). Base camp site on the east side of the mountain (our base camp site). Altitude : c. 6400 m.

Raksha Urai IV ('N6') : snow covered mountain, separated from Raksha Urai III with an significant ice-col. Extreme corniced ice-ridges (south and southeast ridge) and an impressive snow covered southface. Best route: depends on the conditions , either the south face, the south ridge or our the southeast ridge. Base camp site like Raksha Urai III. Altitude: c. 6400 m.

Raksha Urai V (nameless mountain): impressive ice-pyramid, north of Raksha Urai IV. Extremely corniced ice-ridges and big seracs on the huge east face. Best route: definitely the south ridge. But the couloir to reach the ridge is endangered by incredible cornices. Base camp site like Raksha Urai III and IV. Altitude : c. 6400 m.

Raksha Urai VI (Urai Lekh): very steep ice-dome, a long rocky-ridge is connecting this summit with Raksha Urai V. Due to the distance to Raksha Urai V, this summit may belong to its own mountain-group with two rocky neighbouring summits on the east. Best route : definitely the east ridge. It is the only snow-ridge, which can be reached without climbing huge dangerous faces. Base camp 3 km east of the our base camp site.

Climbing

Base camp was set up on 2 October 1997 and after a short exploration on the next day, we decided to attack Raksha Urai IV. The weather conditions were still unstable, the time for climbing was quite short (14 days) and the technical difficulties of all mountains were impressive. Raksha Urai IV seemed to be the less difficult summit and we believed if offered chance for a success. On the next day, after an impressing ceremony with our Lama, Pasang Sherpa, all mountaineers climbed to a small col below the south ridge of Raksha Urai III. Here our high camp was set up at 5000 m. On the 5th Team I (Schiechl, Zoehrer, U. Lackner and Pokorny) explored the traverse to the big icefall between Raksha Urai III and IV. On a lower route, descending a steep short couloir, Team II (G. Mussnig, W. Mussnig, M. Lackner and H. Wieser) reached the icefall next day and set up a material depot.

Our plan was, to cross the icefall and reach a big glacier- basin below the south face of Raksha Urai IV. From here, the face leads approximately 1000 m up to the summit. Due to the conditions we wanted to decide on a route we would climb: the south face, approx. 60 degrees steep — the face was highly endangered by avalanges after snowfall. The southeast-ridge, an extreme corniced snowridge but easy to reach from the basin. Or the southridge. This ridge seemed to be the most facile and less dangerous route. The difficulty here, was to climb a extreme steep face to the col between Raksha Urai III and IV, where the ridge was raising. If all, we estimated, that we could reach the summit in two days from high-camp.

But first, Teams I and II were replaced on the mountain by Team III (T. Suntinger, M. Simmler, P.P. Ploessnig & G. Schaar). They secured the couloir with fixed ropes during afternoon of the 6th. Next day they wanted to find a route through the icefall. But heavy snowfall was starting during these hours and became more and more intense in the evening. We knew, that the steep snow slopes below our high camp would be too dangerous if the snowfall continues. So we decided, that Team III should descend immediately. It were dangerous hours during night, especially while the team was separated for a short time, because of a 10 m fall of a member in the heavy snowfall. But finally all team members reached the base camp without injuries.

The following days, it snowed. The base-camp was covered with more than 75 cm of snow when the snowfall ended on the 9th. After an exploration of the big gorge below Goranphu, which was now threatened by avalanches and impassable for the porters, we decided to sit out. The weather improved and on the 10th we found our spirits and decided to try the mountain. So all members ascended to the high camp on a safer route, climbing a smooth ridge. We reached the camp in the late afternoon. After two hours we had rebuild the camp, which was covered by two meters of snow. In the same evening, Team I started for the final attack, while five further members remained at the high camp to follow the next morning. But Team I was stopped after only half an hour in the snow-filled couloir. So they had a bivvy above the couloir and returned to high camp next morning. During a last attempt, we tried to reach the icefall by a higher route. But the slopes were too dangerous, because of the unstable snow-mass and we turned from an altitude of only 5300 m. In the meantime the weather broke again and so we definitely surrendered. Our last task was to clear the mountain to leave the Raksha Urai as pristine as we found two weeks earlier. After a fast trek back to Chainpur, we had there a overwhelming welcome by the local people with a big festival on the 20th.

Conclusion

The real target of the expedition, the first ascent of a Raksha Urai summit, failed. That for sure. And to reach an altitude of 5300 m was for the Himalaya, really poor. Despite these facts, we think this expedition was a success. First, all members returned healthy and this was not self-evident, because of the catastrophic weather conditions. And second, we had the unique opportunity to explore a pristine part of the Himalaya. Here, in the upper Seti area, future expeditions will have the opportunity to climb a big number of great mountains and innumerable routes. Beside the six Raksha Urai summits, which are described in the article, there are several other wonderful mountains. Especially the mighty Bankya Lekh south of Raksha Urai (c. 6800 m). The rocky main summit looks extreme difficult with sharp ridges. Or the Kapkot (c. 6200 m) east of Raksha Urai with several unnamed neighbouring summits around 6000 m. The only mountain beside Raksha Urai, which is in the list of open mountains, published by HM Ministry of Tourism, in this area is the Suma Sarowar Lekh (c. 6600 m). This mountain is also south of Raksha Urai, but we did not see it. But maybe the Sumo Sarovar was among several beautiful summits, we saw from a small summit near Langa la on our base camp trek. Anyway, in this region, southeast of Raksha Urai, there are further numerous unknown summits.

The upper Seti area, is a future paradise for Himalaya climbing, if further summits are opened by HM Ministry of Tourism. But we hope, that this area will also remain a paradise for nature. So there should be efforts to install a protected area in this pristine region to make it safe for future generations of mountaineers and trekkers.

Summary : Austrian Raksha Urai Expedition 1997. 17 September to 23 October 1997. The team explored the area in western Nepal, attempting one of the peaks.

Members: Guenter Mussnig (leader), Martin Lackner (co-leader), Georg Schiechl (climbing leader), Werner Mussnig, Dieter Pokorny, Thomas Suntinger, Horst Wieser, Martin Simmler, Peter Paul Ploessnig, Gerhard Schaar, Uwe Lackner, and Thomas Zoehrer. Base Camp: Tanja Lube (base camp manager), Martina Wittels (doctor).

 

 

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THE 8 EXPEDITION MEMBERS departed from Japan on 23 August. After packing supplies in Kathmandu, the expedition flew to Kermo Kharka (3800 m) at the base of Manaslu on31 August and 1 September in 3 large Russian-built helicopters.

The 8 expedition members and 8 Sherpas (including 1 cook and 1 kitchen boy) together with all of the supplies made the trip in 45 minutes, saving a 10-day approach march.

Since the monsoon had not yet lifted at Kermo Kharka, it was surrounded by grassy meadows with alpine wildflowers. Porters were hired in the village of Same to pack supplies to base camp at 5000 m. The trip took 1 day and the porters had to be paid 900 rupees (increased to 1000 rupees for the descent). The porters carried about 135 loads to base camp. While they were doing that, the expedition members acclimatised by climbing a nearby mountain and making round-trips to and from the site of base camp. An international expedition and another Japanese expedition were already in base camp. The expedition members finally climbed to base camp to stay in two groups, on 4 September and 5 September.

A ceremony to open base camp was held 8 September. Climbing started on 10 September Camp 1 was established at 5800 m on 14 September.

Camp 1 was set up on black rock. It was a good campsite, with views of Larkya Peak (6427 m) to the north and Ganesh Himal (7429 m) to the southeast. From Camp 1 to the main snowfield the route crossed an icefall with avalanche danger. On 19 September, Camp 2 was established at 6350 m, where the route opened up onto a broad snowfield. It was a scary campsite, which faced avalanche danger when heavy snow fell, so we used it mainly as a depot for supplies, and tried not to spend more than 1 or 2 nights there. From there we climbed toward the north col along the base of Manaslu North Peak (7157 m). The other parties set up their tents immediately below the north col, but we carried our tents to the north col. 23 September, we established Camp 3 at 6900 m. We set our tents up right in the path of the wind on the north col. We took 2 days to fix ropes up the route to the high plateau, coming out on flat ground at the northern end of the plateau. Then we descended to base camp to rest. 30 September, we entered Camp 1 on what we intended to be our summit assault, but as snow continued to fall we returned to base camp on 1 October.

4 October, the members of the first assault party left base camp again, and entered Camp 1.

6 October, we established Camp 4, consisting of 2 tents, at a small col at the northern end of the high plateau at 7500 m. That would be our last camp. We used oxygen both to sleep and during the summit assault. From Camp 4 we could see the summit cone of Manaslu and the pinnacles at the southern end of the high plateau.

7 October, the planned first summit assault was postponed because of bad weather. Snowfall also continued at the lower camps. 8 October, the 6-man first summit assault party (5 expedition members and the Sirdar) left the high camp at 5:05 a.m. They climbed in the dark with headlamps, roped up. When it became light, they unroped and continued to struggle through deep snow toward the summit. At 9 a.m. they arrived at the col directly below the summit, with views of Peak 29 (7871 m) and Himal Chuli (7893 m). They roped up again, in 2 teams, for the climb up the snow ridge to the summit, and started up at 9.50. The final snow-ridge fell off steeply on both sides. On the east side it was corniced. It was so cold that they did no more on the summit than take a few record photographs; the radio report to base camp was postponed until they arrived back at the col below the summit. Then they unroped and each member descended to Camp 4 at his own pace, passing Basque and Slovakian parties on their way up. They continued past Camp 4 to Camp 3, and from there struggled through deep snow to reach Camp 1.

9 October, the second summit assault party consisting of 5 climbers (3 expedition members and 2 Sherpas) left Camp 4 at 5 a.m., reaching the summit at 9.15. On the way down they broke Camp 4, and continued to Camp 3. On the way to Camp 3 they discovered the dead body of one of the members of the Slovakian party, who had been climbing on 8 October, on the fixed rope below Camp 4.

11 October, Camp 1 was broken, ending all climbing activity above base camp. Activities above base camp lasted about 1 month.

13 October, the porters from Sama broke base camp, and the group returned to Kermo Kharka, now in fall colours.

14 October, the expedition members and some of the Sherpas started the return march, crossing the Larkya la (5105 m) toward the Marsyangdi river on the western side of Manaslu. The group took 6 days to reach Bensishahar, from where they took a chartered bus to Kathmandu. The supplies were carried by Sherpas down the Buri Gandaki river.

Members : Toichiro Mitani (leader), Atsushi Yamamoto, Akiyuki Harada, Manabu Hirose, Kazuhiro Takahashi, Toyoshima, Tadaaki Yoshinobu Kato and Yuichi Seki.

Summary: An ascent of Manaslu (8163 m) as 7 and 9 October 1997 by a Japanese team from Meiji University.

 

 

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THIS BRITISH EXPEDITION decided to attempt the east ridge after noting the deep snow on the north side of the mountain The expedition included 12 members led by Andy Nisbet, liaison officer Love Raj Singh Dharrnskatku and 3 high altitude porters. Both previous ascents of the east ridge (1946, 1989) started from the Ronti saddle and climbed the rocky lower section of ridge, then the snowy upper section to reach a lower east top (5900 m), then continuing over a sharp snow ridge section to reach gentler slopes and the summit (6300 m).

We set up an advanced base in a snow scoop below (south side) the Ronti saddle at 4900 m. A gully on the left was chosen, being mostly snow, as an easier approach to the upper section of ridge. The snow was no more than 45 degrees and the only rock step, about 20 m long, was fixed and abseiled on retreat. After this the gully had been reconnoitred as part of the acclimatisation and a food dump made at about 5700 m, an alpine-style attempt was planned by 6 members, liaison officer and HAP's.

The alarms were set for 2 a.m., but it started snowing at 2.30 a.m. It snowed till dawn, by which time we had abandoned plans for the day. Next morning it snowed again from 2 a.m. till 5 a.m., although easing off at 4 a.m. Most members were keen to give it a go, so we set off at first light, knowing that this was really too late. By the time we reached the crest, at a large rock and small platform named 'Respite Rock', the sun was strong (5400 m). We continued as 4 roped teams to the cache. From here trail breaking was harder until a point where a big cornice blocked the ridge (the joining point of a SE ridge, short but here dominant). There was a choice between traversing right under the cornice, 50 degree soft snow but leading to a semi-terrace, or an easy traverse left, break through the cornice and cross fingers. As leader, the choice was mine. I knew that right was too steep for the HAPs, the snow was poor and we would need to pitch, although this was the original line of ascent. But our previous variations had been successful so I gambled on left, but instead of a hoped-for flat plateau and camp site, it was an Andes-style knife- edge. We gave it a go, hoping for an easing, but it got steeper and although we reached 5880 m, within 30 m of the rock tower which was the east summit. With no sign of a camping site and now in thick mist with the beginnings of snowfall and spindrift, the decision was made to turn back. The weather was now deteriorating quickly and was really quite bad on the descent, so we decided to strip the mountain. We returned to ABC that day and base the next. Then it snowed a lot, even at base. So the mountain wasn't even going to tantalise us; it just laughed and said 'lucky you didn't carry on, eh?'

So it remains a fine line on a fine mountain but as with all alpine- style attempts on a short time-scale, ill-timed bad weather leaves the team having achieved little. However, the longer approach via the Rupkund lake and the unspoilt countryside in this area meant that the expedition was still very enjoyable.

Summary: An attempt on Nanda Ghunti (6309 m) by a British expedition in summer 1996.

 

 

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AS INDIA CELEBRATED the 50th year of Independence, on 15 August 1997, I discovered that there were several extra holidays to celebrate the event. Many politicians were descending to Bombay, many events were planned and all the brouhaha was bound to lead to traffic jams and noise. So what could be a better way to spend the week than in the mountains. After all mountaineering is also all about 'Freedom of the Hills', is it not ?

'Uttarkashi is wet, more wetter than you can imagine'. We ran into two Principals of the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in Delhi.

With this ominous information, on 12 August five of us reached the NIM in Uttarkashi. Its sprawling campus amidst pines were a perfect starting point for us. Till we reached Uttarkashi it was raining heavily, and had poured for the preceding week confirming the warning we had received. In fact we purchased umbrellas and plastics for all. Shekhar was carrying a fancy ' double' umbrella and to tease his wife Sheela, that piece of fancy gadgetry was nicknamed 'second wife'. But behold, all through our trek except for a sharp shower or a wet afternoon, the weather Gods did not trouble us. Well, one does not mind unpredictable weather if it's in one's favour!

With all the arrangements made we travelled to Malla (1500 m - 24 km by road) to begin the trek. Crossing the Bhagirathi river the track climbed steeply to Sila (2040 m- 6 km). We were housed in the village school. There were some preparations on for the 15 August celebrations, children were singing patriotic songs and preparing for a prabhat pheri (morning walk) on that historic day. But we were worried about our walk the next day. The track relentlessly climbed steeply, in fact too steeply for enjoying the beautiful forest that we were in. Many gaddis (shepherds) were climbing up with us for above were the most fertile bugiyals (meadows).

Kush Kalyan, our goal for the day, was almost 1600 m above us and each of our co-trekkers, even the gaddis, found it tiring. We went across Chuli la (3580 m), a small pass on the ridge and the climb ended. By late evening we camped a little before Kush Kalyan. Amongst us, Arnav found the going exhausting, may be something to do with eating too many steaks and burgers in the USA, where he came from.

That evening we were treated to a most beautiful panorama of the Bandarpunch massif. My thoughts were with J.T.M. Gibson, who in the fifties had attempted each of these peaks and climbed several of them. He introduced young Indian mountaineers to the sport of mountaineering in these ranges. On our right was Kalanag (6387 m), the highest of the lot. It rose like a 'black serpent', as its name implied. In the centre rose Bandarpuch (6316 m), the 'monkey's tail'. Both these peaks were tried several times by Gibson with different parties from the Doon school, where he was the headmaster. Bandarpunch was climbed by his team. R. Greenwood, Tensing Norgay (in his 'before Everest' form !) and Sherpa Tsering reached the summit, in 1950. Kalanag defied two attempts by Gibson, in 1953 and 1955, and it was finally climbed by another party from the Doon School in 1968. Today it is perhaps the best- known (and most climbed) peak in the Garhwal. The peak that beat Gibson and Tensing Norgay narrowly was Bandarpunch West (6102 m) now seen to our left. They had followed the sharp south ridge but had to stop. It remained inviolate till 1984 when the first ascent was made by a Bombay team led by me. We followed the northern route. Having climbed Kalanag we were well acclimatised and could go through the highly crevassed Bandarpunch glacier. The final slopes were fun to climb. Today many, like us, enjoy this Bandarpunch range but it must be remembered that this was the range where the real freedom to roam the hills began for generations of Indian mountaineers.

Our trek continued on 15 August, the momentous day. On the radio there were patriotic songs and speeches galore. It reminded me, in a different vein, of an Italian movie.¹ As the war had ended, while the sound was broadcasting the great victory marches and speeches, the visual frames showed farmers working routinely in the fields, unmindful of the great day. Our situation was almost similar.

 

We were in the company of some elderly shepherds, many of them born before Indian Independence. None of them remembered the effect of the historical event. They lived in the hills and the area was then in the Tehri State. As there were no roads they were almost 10 days away from 'civilisation'. Without a radio or any means of communication, they just 'heard' from the pilgrims that India was free. It made no difference to their lives. And frankly even today they had not much knowledge of the brouhaha enacted in the plains for this day. They walked, as always, with their flock, smoking a bidi and listening to the radio with amusement.

That afternoon it poured heavily as we crossed Bhowani Bugiyal and later went across Kyarki Khal (4077 m). By late evening we camped at Kyarki (3900 m-12 km). Our neighbours were a family of gujjar's. They migrate to this ground every year, for about 5 months, have done so for more than a generation. Amongst them was a young couple, married only for a few months. Life was simple and happy for them. The husband charmingly put a shawl on the young wife when she felt cold, and she knitted special caps for him. They had horses which roamed about in great abandon. A dog barked constantly in the distance. Even after three decades in the Himalaya, and five decades in this world, for me there were things to enjoy and learn !

The views were staggering as we climbed further on to a ridge. A ridge full of flowers had the Bandarpunch massif in background, while the Jaonli peak was seen rising in the north. It was a magnificent setting on the lush green bugiyals with several goats and sheeps grazing. Once on the Kukhli Dhar we reached a well-made footpath.² This path was constructed from Buddha Kedar, from the Tehri district in the south. It was built several years ago for the pilgrims to visit Shahstru Tal. Similarly a small dharamshala was built on the ridge, now in ruins. We camped little ahead, overlooking Lamb Tal (4300 m-6 km).

Next morning was brilliant. We hoisted the Indian flag overlooking Lamb Tal in a sentimental display of patriotism. Mehernos and I left early and scrambled up a small peak, 'Lamb Peak', 4550 m. The view of Shashtru Tal was magnificent.³ Going to the shores of Shashtru Tal would have taken about 2 hours. Being situated in a bowl it could not offer any view. Shashtru Peak (5154 m) rose behind the lake like a sentinel. Dodhi Tal was in the front. Several lakes were seen en route and were marked on the map on both sides of the ridge, amply justifying the title 'Lake District of the Garhwal' awarded to this area by the prolific writer Bill Aitken.⁴

 

That evening we camped near the gujjar couple again, now joined by their old father. I could not resist asking these nomads what they thought of the Indian independence and that historic day exactly fifty years ago.

'I came to Kush Kalyan then'. The old man replied. 'That time we used to travel on foot from Saharanpur, and even today we do the same. We have our flock with us.'

'What about the future?', I asked.

The young gaddi interjected, 'As long as I am alive I will be here and the yearly migration will continue in the same style'.

'What is the effect of the fifty years of the Independence, what about freedom?'

He thought for a while and replied with a smile, as if it was a state of mind,

'We were always free'.

Members: Sheela and Shekhar Jaywant, Arnav Sheth, Mehernos Jehangir and Harish Kapadia. Period: 11th to 22nd August 1997.

Summary : A short trek to Shastru tal, Uttarkashi in the Garhwal.

Colour plate 6

 

 

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IT TOOK US 6 DAYS to get to the same place below the Kharchakund which was expected to be our base camp site. After checking out our equipment and food, we set up a snow block around our base camp. Weather around there was predictable. We were sure that if we used our time effectively, we could succeed in climbing the summit. From the next day, in order to construct ABC all our members moved equipment and food. It took us 8 days to finish that job. The ABC was located at two hours' distance from the face of Chaukhamba, at 5300 m.

It took us an hour to get to C1 which was set up right below the face of Chaukhamba. The first day, we transported ropes, snow- bars, pitons, food and a tent to that place and I asked three of our members to make routes. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the wall from C1 even though it looked near. When one of our members finished fixing a 200 m long rope, the sky around suddenly darkened.

Therefore, we had to immediately come down the wall. In fact, it was our first attempt to climb Chaukhamba. But it was not a good experience. Because of heavy snow, we could not find holds and we could not set up a snow-bar. It was spring, so we expected heavy snow. But this was heavier than expected. Next day, four members tried to move up further but they climbed up only 200 m from the previous location and installed a rope. It was clear that it would take more time than we had expected, if things went on like this the previous. Therefore, we decided to set up another camp on the top of the wall. Our original plan was to set up camp at 6300 m. But it was changed due to bad weather. We were happy to hear that our route-makers had found a place where we could set up a tent at 5800 m. In order to set up a tent there we used two 200 m long ropes, 5 snow bars and 8 pitons. This place (C2) was so steep that had we climbed during we could not have dreamt of setting up a camp. When we opened the tent door here, we found a crevasse which looked like a monster's mouth. This area was one of the most difficult for us to negotiate. While we were climbing up to C2, we lost some of our equipment and food because of a snow-slide. We were very tired. From here (C2) to C3 which was located at 6300 m there was snow mixed with ice. Therefore, we mainly used a snow-bar. It took two days to set up a tent. We used six 200 m long fixed ropes, a 75 cm long snow-bar, pitons and a cam nut. The weather around us was very unsteady.

After setting up C3, we climbed down to the ABC for a rest. After two days' rest, our first team left for C2 early in the morning. While we were resting at the ABC, some parts of the ropes were lost and some parts of tent was broken because of a snow-slide. When we arrived in C3, the condition of the tent there was worse than the one at C2. We mended it and fell asleep quickly. All of our team members got up at about two o'clock. It was windy but the sky was so clear that we could see lots of stars. We could see Chaukhamba II, which was shining in the moonlight. When we climbed up 500 m to the right, we found lots of 'five-story building size' ice blocks scattered around. We went round this area to the left, and then we found the wide snow-field which we had not seen before. It was 7 a.m. when we arrived there. This snow-field was so wide that it took long hours to pass through. While we were passing through this area, Chaukhamba I appeared to our left. We did not have much trouble while we were climbing this area, because we paid attention to crevasses. At 8 a.m. the wind got worse. When we almost passed through the snowfield, a sharp ridge, which led to Chaukhamba II, appeared in front of us. This was the most difficult place we had to pass. We arrived there at 9 a.m. We only had 300 m long rope, five snow-bars, 6 pitons and some cam nut.

Because the sharp ridge was covered with snow and ice, we did not have to do rock climbing. Instead, we traversed by using side steps and front points. It took about two hours to pass the sharp ridge and we were very tried. Strong winds and very cold weather made us exhausted. My partners' toes were frostbitten. From that point to the summit, there a was 45° ice-slope which could be seen by us. From there, we climbed easily. We arrived at the summit at 12 : 10 p.m. It had taken us 9 hours to get there. We hugged each other with tears in our eyes and then took pictures. We could see Shivling, and the Bhagirathi peaks from the summit. We could see Chaukhamba I very clearly. It was so close to us that we could almost touch it. We had to descend the mountain. Because we expected bad weather, we had to hurry. We were right. When we traversed the sharp ridge, a white-out started and the wind got stronger. When we arrived on the show-field, visibility was almost zero. We could not find our way down. It was our mistake that we had not sign poles in advance. After we had wandered on the snow-field for four hours, we blue sky and sun, shining brightly. Suddenly all clouds were gone, and we could see the Chaukhamba mountains. We thanked god for having saved us. We were like people recovered from a coma. We were very happy.

Later, we realised that we had wandered around C3 and under normal weather conditions, it would have taken us 5 minutes to get C3. As soon as we reached Camp 3, we collapsed from fatigue and were moved inside the tent by our team members. It had been a really long day.

Summary: An ascent of Chaukhamba II (7068 m) by a Korean team in summer 1996.

 

 

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False Hopes
'YOUR EXPEDITION HAS been cleared by the Indian Government!'
After months of false starts, I was pleasantly awakened with this news by a call from Delhi. We had decided to attempt the ascent, and then the descent by telemark of the northern column of Trisul (7120 m), in the Garhwal. The approach plan of this icy facade, which had been traversed on ski many times, covers the Rishi ganga valley and then passes by the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, which has been closed to all foreign expeditions for fifteen years. Arguing that our ascent does not, in theory, penetrate the Sanctuary, we were, against all expectations, the first foreign expedition in fifteen years to be authorised on the northern parts of Trisul.

We had, however, not counted on certain ministers and communication problems between different Indian departments authorising the expeditions. A few days before departure, I received a fax from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation saying that they had erred in giving us permission to traverse the Rishi Ganga valley which was part of the Sanctuary. But we could still climb the southwestern column, after all it was the same mountain !

Not having any information about this face, there were a lot of uncertainties, doubts and even hopes as we were climbing the Nandakini. After trekking for five days in this magnificent valley sprinkled with pretty villages, we installed our base camp at 4150 m near the Hom Kund lake. From where we were, it was impossible to see the summit, as the first rocky barrier of more than 1000 m in height blocked the view. After some days of acclimatisation and preparation of material, we made our first ascent in the direction of a column to the east of Nanda Ghunti, a very beautiful summit of 6309 m. We had small hope of finding a passage that allowed us to go around the western slope and to access the northern slope. After climbing for some hours under a hot sun, our last illusions were shattered when we arrived at this column. Our gaze stopped on slopes and giddying heights which formed a magnificent cirque, but did not become less insurmountable The summit of Trisul, which was now visible, was superb and dominated a face of 1500 m, inclined at 55°-60°. The southwest ridge became our only eventual route and from where we were, it did not seemed unattainable. We had however learnt to beware of Himalayan dimensions and know that judging them was very difficult. We had the ideal place for our first camp, but the heat having become menacing, we decided to retract our steps and leave a depot for the material at the foot of a small corridor, closer to our base camp and reach there directly. We finally took our first steps on snow, and some minutes later, we descended the splendid slope facing our base camp, under the astonished gaze of our liaison officer, Jogi.

The Corridor of the Leopard of Snow

Some days later, we climbed again with the tents around midnight, and took the material left at the passage. First camp was established on the edge of a magnificent and immense icy-plateau (glacier) which cut the western slope in two. While Mick arranged the camp a bit, I left with the others to check out another corridor which seemed to be the best route between base camp and Camp 1. On the top, we discovered fresh traces of a snow leopard that we must have disturbed. As John and Ace installed a rope to descend the corridor, I climbed on the crest which was 1000 m above base camp, and tried to follow the traces. But they were lost in the rocks, and ever if we couldn't see him, I was sure that the leopard had seen us and was observing us from its hide-out. We decided to baptise this corridor as the 'Snow Leopard Corridor', and John, Bob and Ace descended, to return to base camp in a few minutes, though it had taken us 5 hours to climb it. Mick and I remained for one day at Camp 1. At 9 o'clock, it was already very hot and I prepared soup and tea. The reflection was so intense, that even inside the tents we had to keep our sun glasses on. Around 3 p.m., it started to snow. Ever since we had been to here, we had beautiful weather in the morning, then the gloom came systematically, and it invariably snowed till evening. Some days, we even experienced storms and frighteningly violent winds in Camp 1. In minutes, the hot sun gave way to an icy tempest, and it was in the tents that we passed most of the days at camp. After one more descent by the corridor of the Leopard to retrieve some material from base camp, we climbed again to traverse the glacier plateau and install Camp 2 at the foot of the southwestern ridge. Once again, we left Camp 1 at night in order to avoid the unbearable heat of the morning, and after an easy climb, we almost ran along the foot of the southwestern face, which was above us. The placement of Camp 2 was ideally situated on a flat area a little more than 5750 m. As we reached near it, the more pessimistic I became. While we savoured the panorama under the sun's rays, we discovered at the same time that the ridge was proving to be impossible. The little hope that we had was eroded in front of these 1400 m of blue ice and rocks which were much steeper than what they seemed when seen from the first camp. We were equipped with material for alpine ski, in addition to the telemark, and without really rigid shoes with classique spikes to get a footing, it was almost unthinkable to try the summit. Ace exclaimed, 'Hey, it is magnificent here, but we are on the wrong side of the mountain!'

That perfectly explained our situation. Not having been authorised to do the northern slope, we had done the maximum that was possible on the southwestern slopes. Few expeditions had come here before, we were able to explore this slope of Trisul in length and breadth; and even established a record on telemark on this superb mountain.

Geoff had given the highest lessons in telemark to Jogi, the liaison officer. We had good weather during these weeks, and most importantly, we all came back with a strong desire to return some day...

The expedition to Trisul took place from 10 May to 10 June 1997; and the team comprised John Falkiner, Ace Knale, Ian Reid, Bob Mazarei, Geoff Dyke, Mick Wheeler and Nicolas Jacques.

Summary : A French ski-expedition to Trisul (7120 m), in May-June 1997.

 

 

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SITUATED IN THE GARHWAL HIMALAYA, Nilgiri Parvat has probably been named so because of a huge mass of blue ice present on the peak. Separating the valley of flowers and Bankund glacier the peak has limited access. Previous records show that it has been attempted several times.

Establishing Base Camp

The team started from Malari. On 27 May, 28 mules and a 1-ton truck had ferried leftover stores to a wooden bridge near Bampa. On 28 May, again the truck was used to ferry stores and members upto the foot bridge of Ruyul Bagar. The leftover distance of 5 kilometres was covered on foot.

On 29 May Chhibber, Labh Singh and eight other members left Bampa to establish base camp at Thara Udiyar 3810 m. Rest of the members, the animals and porters followed them after a gap of one hour to ferry loads to base camp.

Establishing Camp I

The southeast slope of Nilgiri Parvat was visible from base camp. Also the snout of the glacier turning towards Bhyunder khal was visible. This glacier was broken up with a number of large crevasses. It was hence decided that Bankund glacier should be followed to reach north of Nilgiri Parvat to find a route to climb from there.

Accordingly Chhibber, Labh Singh, Lance Naik Dhan Singh, Lance P Aurangagiri, and three porters were despatched to open a route to Camp I on 29 May. A foot track along a spur on the right of Amrit ganga was traced out and followed upto Eri Udiyar. It was observed that Eri Udiyar was a suitable place for base camp, though it would have been difficult for the animals to reach there. This foot track was followed along the right of the moraine to a place from where the embankment of Bankund was visible. From there the moraine was crossed over to reach Bankund, which was on top of an embankment which skirts Nilgiri. Climbing on to this was a little troublesome but on the top a foot track existed. The embankment was very narrow at places and was cracked, with 50 m of steep fall on one side and about 20 m on the other. Travelling along this the party reached north of Nilgiri and chose a site for Camp 1 after fixing rope to climb down into Bankund glacier (4570 m).

On 2 June the party at Camp 1 set out for the reconnaissance of a route to climb to the northwest ridge. It took about 3 hours to the base of northwest ridge to find an access, a frozen nala which reached the ridge of Nilgiri at a point about 1 km away from the peak. Here the cornice formation which hangs all along the top of the ridge finishes into a series of rock faces. The nala, about 200 m to our left was avalanche-prone and the party witnessed two avalanches during the next one hour. There was another approach about 1 km to the right of the nala from where a climb was possible by traversing on rock face to reach the same spot or ridge line but it would have taken much longer. From this place the Bankund glacier took a right turn into Devban glacier and here again icefalls existed.

Having finalised our choice of route, Commando Har Singh, Lance Naik Prem Chand and Lance Naik Digamber moved ahead to open the route. The rest of the party rested at the base of nala.

On 3 June, Hav Satish Gosain, Paratrooper Har Singh, Lance Naik Premchand, and Naik Digamber with porters Raju and San Singh left Camp 1 at to open a further route. Four other members left one and a half hour later with breakfast and tea for the first party. By this time, the route opening party was visible from Camp 1 through binoculars.

They had crossed the first stretch of the nala (about 80 degree climb). The second party followed them using ascenders and carrying a rope each and also the rest of the climbing equipment. By 1100 hours Har Singh, who was moving first, had fixed all the seven ropes which were carried but the ridge line was still not reached. Our initial estimate of fixing eight ropes to reach ridge line had proved wrong.

Next day Chhibber with a rope of four members was ready to leave Camp 1 at 0330 hours when it started snowing heavily. He postponed the move but it kept snowing the whole day and all tents were buried upto 1 m under snow. At 1930 hours the weather cleared and piles of snow were removed from the tops of the tents. A very tasty dinner prepared by Sepoy DV Pawar lightened the mood and it was decided that, weather permitting, the same party would move ahead for opening the route the following day.

5 June became a memorable day for those who went for the route opening. The party, led by Chhibber, left Camp 1 at 0430 hours and started climbing the nala at 0540. Ropes fixed previously were buried deep under snow and it was a difficult job digging them out. Progress was slow and laborious. The party had hardly climbed 100 m when Prem Chand, who was leading, saw an avalanche falling towards them and warned everyone by blowing a whistle. Luckily the menace was divided by a rock above them and the party was not hit by a bulk of it. A small avalanche hit the party after climbing another 50 m but, as they were under a shelter of rock, nobody was hit. The third avalanche was a massive one and immediately followed the second. The party was in a turning in the nala and fortunately anchored to a rock face on the right. The avalanche lasted for more than two minutes and all members had to suffer its fury and were buried waist deep in snow. Everyone was praying when the avalanche was over. By now spirits were dampened and lungs seemed to be full of snow dust. Agony and fright subsided as the party had refreshments sitting under the shelter of a rock. Initially even the rustle of a polythene packet started everyone but after half an hour the mood was light again. It was decided to make one more try to progress further. But before the party reached the end of the ropes previously fixed, it was hit by another avalanche. This time the party was in the open, with no shelter, and it was a dangerous place to get caught in. Therefore Chhibber decided to go back to Camp 1. The others rushed to find out how they were. There was much cheer when all were found to be fine.

On 5 June, Chhibber, Labh Singh, Prem Chand, Har Singh and porter Raju left Camp 1 and established the staging camp at 4880 m. It was decided that this party would assault the peak the next day. The night was very cold and members slept fully clad for four hours or so. At 0200 hours everyone was awake but it took another one hour before tea could be made out of melted snow. After a round of biscuits and tea, they set out at 0330 hours with two ropes each, around the necks, and ice-bars, pitons, carabiners etc. hanging between the legs. It took two hours to reach the place upto which rope was already fixed. The average climb upto the knoll on the ridge line for which the party was heading was 70 degrees. The distance upto the knoll was quite deceptive as even after fixing ropes for another 470 m straight up the party could not reach the knoll. The party was stuck under an overhanging cornice and had to move back about 100 m to change their route. It was already 1200 hours and the snow had become very soft. Progressing any further was not possible. Also small avalanches were triggered off about 100 m to the left. Labh Singh suggested aborting the attempt as even if the party crossed the knoll by 1300 hours it would be foolhardy to try to climb the peak. This was agreed to and the party moved back.

The party reached Camp 1 by 1430 hours and found Chand, SK Singh and Daulal there. Chhibber briefed the leader about the progress made. A second rope consisting of Hav Satish Gosain, Hav Satish Kumar, Lance Naik Dhan Singh, Lance Naik P Auranagiri and Sepoy Daulal was to try and assault the peak the next day. This party, along with two porters, left for the staging camp at 1700 hours after an early dinner.

Success at Last

At 0200 hours on 7 June the party led by Satish Gosain started their climb. Taking advantage of the packed snow during the early hours the party was near the ridge line by 0600 hours. It was a clear day with not a single flake of cloud in sight. This party took a left detour along a rock face to avoid an overhang of cornice where the previous party had got stuck. After fixing three ropes the party crossed over the ridge break through a small cornice on top. On the other side of the ridge was again a steep fall. The party traversed cautiously to the left for another 50 m. to reach a flat open patch by 0930 hours. From here they could see the Mana valley and also the Devban glacier and Devban peak. Nilgiri peak was visible and looked quite close and easy. All around were huge icefalls. The sight of the peak revitalised all members and they moved ahead to try and climb it. However Dhan Singh suffered from acute mountain sickness and decided to stay back there along with two porters who were too tired to move ahead.

500 m ahead, the party found a blue ice-gate which looked like a deliberately constructed fortress gate. The party entered it but was trapped in waist deep snow and had to come out. This gate was skirted from the right to climb further ahead. The peak which looked close earlier now seemed to be receding. It was already 12 hours since the party had started climbing. The last bits of energy had been consumed. Only the grit and determination of the members not to give up now that they were so close to their objective urged them to keep moving ahead. The efforts were rewarded finally when the party reached the summit at 1500 hours. As was customary they had been briefed not to step on top of the peak but just pay their respects to it. They performed a small pooja and planted the ice axe carrying the Indian flag and the ASC and Parachute Brigade flags. This was followed by a photo-session.

Success renewed their energy. The party reached the staging camp by 1900 hours, thoroughly exhausted.

The second party was to attempt the summit on the next day. The leader decided to open Camp 2 across the knoll on top of the north west ridge from where the assault would be made. However, the next day pre-monsoon clouds started building up and leader knew well the hazards of attempting the peak under those conditions. He called off the expedition taking no further risk.

Summary : The ascent of Nilgiri Parvat (6474 m) by an team of the Indian army on 7 Jube 1994.

 

 

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WE, JAPAN WORKERS' ALPINE FEDERATION, organised a mountaineering expedition every year. When we made the ascent of Draupadi ka Danda II (5670 m) in 1992, we found a higher peak than ours. It was our aim to climbers that peak in 1997, the name of the peak is Draupadi ka Danda main peak (5716 m).

On 25 July 1997, BC (3600 m) was established in Din gad. After checking the route for C1, our team was divided in two groups. The first team went up and stayed at C1 (4600 m), situated on the left of the Dokrani Bamak on the 29th. On the 30th, the first team opened the route to C2 (5400 m), situated on the col on the east- northeast ridge (ENE ridge) and came down to BC. There are so many crevasses from C1 to C2, and on the ENE ridge to the summit. Our route, was very sharp like a knife. The second team shifted to C1, and next day went down to BC. On 1 August, the first team shifted to C1 and to C2 on the next day. On the 3rd, five members including me made the first ascent of this peak. We thought that it would be difficult to climb the peak by the second team. So, C2 was removed. On the 4th, three members went up and scaled peak II, and other three members including me also reached the summit of peak II on the 5th.

These two peaks are small, but difficult. In addition to, we faced a rock-avalanche and snow avalanche between C1 and C2 due to bad weather.

Summary: Japan Workers' Alpine Federation High Altitude Mountaineering School Draupadi ka-Danda I and II Expedition 1997 leader, Kazuyoshi Kondo, deputy leader, Takehiko Ikeda, Members: Yoshikazu Tomonaga, Heisuke Nagaoka, Husao Yamagishi, Ms. Setsuko Ito, Ms. Chihoko Ito, Tsutomu Hasegawa, Ms. Isomi Okanda and Ms. Hiroko Kodama.

The first ascent of peak I (5716 m) was made on 3 August, 1997. Peak II was climbed on 5 August 1997.

Colour plates 15-16
Photos 39-40

 

 

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WE ORGANISED an all ladies expedition from Uttarkashi in September/October 1997. The main aim was to inculcate a spirit of adventure amongst the ladies in this hill district. To do so, we decided to attempt Srikanta (6132 m) in the surrounding area. This peaks though small in height, is technically challenging and it was felt that it will give us a good opportunity for training and good ascent. All members assembled in Uttarkashi by 14 September and we started on the 16th.

16th September : We reached Jangla (2290 m) (near Kupang).

17th: We trekked through thick forest for 7 hours to reach base camp. Our base camp (4000 m) was established on the left bank of Dudu gad. It was a beautiful spot with several rhododendron and juniper bushes.

18th : We made a ferry till advance base camp at 4500 m It took us about 4 hours. On the left of ABC was the glacier and moraine starts from here. We saw Srikanta from here. Further ferries were made next day and members occupied the base camp on the 20th.

21st: Camp 1 was established at 5100 m. We had to clear stones and debris to make a flat ground to pitch tents. Stocking of the camps by various members continued till the 23rd.

24th : The first team opened route till Camp 2. This was the most difficult route. We fixed about 1800 m of ropes in this section.

25th : This team opened route till the summit camp. Two summit teams were chosen to make attempt on the peak. The first team consisted of Ms. Suman Kutiyal (deputy leader), Ms. Lata Joshi, Ms. Nari Dhami, Ms. Radha Rana and Ms. Kavita Budathoki. Rest of the members were included in the second team. This team reached the last camp on the 26th.v27th : The first summit team reached the top at 11.45 a.m. they enjoyed a good view and returned to the camp late evening. The weather had turned foul by now.

28th : The successful summiters returned to Camp 1 while the second team was on its way up.

29th : The second team attempted the peak reaching till 19,500 ft but as weather had taken a turn for the worse they returned back to Camp 1.

With this our further attempts were called-of and we returned to Jangla by 3 October.

Members : Ms. Chandraprabha Aitwal (leader), Ms. Suman Kutiyal (deputy leader), Ms. Nari Dhami, Ms. Lata Joshi, Ms. Vinita Varma, Ms. Aradhana Chauhan, Ms. Radha Rana, Ms. Medha Rawat, Ms. Urmila Rawat, Ms. Kavita Budathoki, Ms. Bina Ramola and Ms. Sarita Rana.

Summary : An ascent of Srikanta (6132 m) by a ladies team from Uttarkashi, UP, on 27 September 1997.

Photos 42-43

 

 

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ON 6 SEPTEMBER 1997, five climbers from the Chandra Bhaga Expedition Group summited on the previously unclimbed peak CB 11 (approx. 6000 m). This peak is in located at the southwestern end of the North Dakka glacier, which is at the eastern side of the massif enclosed within the arms of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers in Lahaul. The expedition team were all from the U.K., and also all members of the Red Rope Mountaineering Club. The group formed in March 1996, and inspired by the descriptions in Exploring The Hidden Himalaya (Soli Mehta and Harish Kapadia) had chosen the destination by June 1996. The climbing members of the team were Colin Knowles, Ian Carey, Titch Kavanagh, Andy Phillips and David Reynolds. Chris Smart and Tracey Purchase came to provide base camp support.

On the morning of 23 August we set off for the 113 km bus journey Manali to Batal, which would take us over the Rohtang pass (3978 m). The Manali side of the pass is mainly on a good road, climbing up the deodar-clad slopes, turning many switch back bends. Near the top we saw many eagles soaring close to the road, but the actual pass was covered in cloud. As we descended the other side, the mountains of Lahaul quickly came into view and we all excitedly peered into the distance, hoping to see CB11.

The descent to the Chandra valley seemed starkly different from the Manali side. As the monsoon rains rarely cross the Rohtang pass, few trees grow in Lahaul and the vegetation is sparse, making the landscape barren. The road deteriorated into a dirt track, but was still laden with heavy trucks. At Chota Dara (3760 m) we had a 3 hour delay whilst a section of road was rebuilt; it had been swept away by a large landslide a few weeks earlier. We all got out to observe the road building technique which consisted of mainly manual labour, assisted by a bulldozer and the occasional use of dynamite. The absence of any health and safety considerations gave us an exciting time.

We eventually arrived at Batal (4000 m) in the dark at 19:30 and quickly erected the tents whilst Chander prepared supper. Unfortunately some of us were suffering badly with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), which was not surprising as we had ascended 2000 m in one day. It was not cold during the night (10°C), but most of the team did not sleep very well due to the AMS.

Knowing that we would be ascending too quickly, we had planned to have a rest day at Batal. Unfortunately Batal is dry, dusty and windy, with little of interest, so most of the time was spent either feeling ill, sleeping, eating or going for short walks.

On 25 August, we set off for the short walk to Dakka. Although this only took 3 hours, we were all arrived tired. Unfortunately there was a little confusion about where we were heading and we camped in the wrong spot. This was not surprising as even the local people seemed unsure of correctly identifying the North and South Dakka glaciers.

Matters were further complicated by the presence of a wire Tyrolean traverse across the Dakka river. Although the wire had been in place for some 20 years and was mentioned in three previous UK expedition reports, we or the staff had picked-up on this important fact. To add some piquancy to the situation, we were told that two people had died on this river crossing already this year. This confusion did not delay us unnecessarily, but merely added some excitement for the journey to base camp.

As it was now apparent that none of the support staff had been to the North Dakka glacier, it was decided that Norbu and David would go ahead the following morning to reconnoitre the route to base camp and select a suitable site. They would then return to inform the horse handlers of the route. Thus Norbu and David set off early whilst everyone else ferried the gear across on the Tyrolean wire. It was hard work, but made easier by borrowing a heavy duty pulley from the support staff of an expedition travelling north to CB 53. The horses crossed the river without loads. On our return from base camp the horses were able to cross with loads, approximately 300 m up-stream, just past the mini gorge

About 1 hour up from the wire, the ground changed from gentle grass slopes to steep unconsolidated dirt and loose scree. Since each horse is worth over Rs. 10,000, and the daily hire rate is about Rs. 100, the horse handlers were reluctant to take their animals further over such unknown terrain. Meanwhile, Norbu and David had identified a suitable site for base camp, but David, keen as mustard, had forged further up onto the glacier. Thus there was some delay until Norbu returned, considerably later than expected, and convinced the horse handlers that the horses could use the route.

Base camp was at 4400 m, situated an hour from the snout of the North Dakka glacier. From this point onwards the difficult terrain made further progress impossible for the horses. The site was on settled moraine and it was just possible to clear sufficient spots for the tents. For the first few days at base camp the weather was not very good, with lots of rain and some snow. Whilst this meant we could not see the view up the glacier, the enforced rest was of positive benefit for the purposes of acclimatisation.

On 29 August, we were all involved in trying to set up advanced base camp (ABC). The route up to ABC starts gently along the river bed and after half an hour a 100 m ice tunnel was reached. During the early morning it proved possible to rush nervously through this impressive feature, otherwise the much safer option was to climb over scree and boulders to reach a mini valley. After another 20 minute walk the snout of the glacier was reached and a short, steep and loose climb led to the glacier proper.

The first part of the glacier was predominantly scree and large boulders on ice; here the preferred line was up the true right bank. Although the incline seemed gentle, the effort involved to move upwards was considerable. If the walker is fit, acclimatised and lightly loaded, after an hour of scree and boulders it is possible to cross to the middle of the glacier and then take about another hour to walk the rest of the way to ABC on relatively smooth ice.

On 31 August, Titch, Gurpal, David, Andy and I set off for ABC, picking up the stashed gear along the way. Everyone was finding the going difficult, especially Ian and Andy who needed frequent rests and encouragement to reach ABC. When the tent was reached it was decided to move it another 200 m up the glacier to a more promising site. This new site was on snow and so pitching the tents was slightly easier than on the moraine.

Although most of the team were awake early the next morning, because of the efforts of the previous day, activity did not begin until the sun was warming the tents at 09:00. By the time breakfast had been eaten it was past 10:00. At 10:40 we set off up the glacier, towards the west col, with the intention of having a good look at potential routes. Despite the team's considerable collective alpine experience, the late time of departure did not fully register until one hour later. By this time the soft snow conditions meant that little progress had been made and everyone was regretting not having started much earlier. A slow march uphill continued.

Ian was still unwell, but had neglected to tell the rest of the team how bad he was, although it was apparent that he was having some difficulties. At 14:00 it became obvious that the west col would not be reached in time to allow a descent back to ABC in daylight. Whilst the team discussed options, the weather closed in and it began to snow lightly; it was quickly decided that descent was the best option.

About 500 m from ABC Ian collapsed and needed assistance back to the tents. Prior to the collapse he was very quiet, not walking very well, was loosing his concentration and developed a right sided weakness. Ian remained poorly for the rest of the night, causing some concern to the others, especially when he was having short fits. His condition caused particular concern because he was also the expedition nurse. That night it was decided that Titch and I would walk Ian down to base camp the next day, whilst the others made an early morning start up to the west col to reconnoitre potential routes.

However, next morning it was still snowing, so everyone returned to base camp. Ian set off with a reasonable load, but Titch and I soon had to relieve him of it; though he was able to descend unlined slowly to base camp. During the next couple of days there was considerable rainfall, so we took the opportunity to rest, recuperate and acclimatise further.

On 4 September I set off with Gurpal, David, Titch, Andy and Ian for ABC again, this time making better progress. By 13:00 everyone was at ABC, but unfortunately Ian was still not acclimatising and was unwell again.

Before that day route options that had been discussed included an approach via the long east ridge, a diretissima from the east face, a route onto the north ridge via the north buttress and via the west ridge. Some of us felt that there might also be a line up the west face. During that afternoon, David and I had walked further up the glacier to where it was possible to have a clear view of the west face of CB 11. From here we could see that a large couloir (nicknamed the 'Grand Couloir') ran from below the west col to the west ridge, from where it appeared that the summit was 150 m higher.

The other route options had definite minus points. The east ridge was likely to offer a hard slog through soft corniced snow at altitude. The east face direct might well have proved, impossibly arduous to climb if the snow was unconsolidated, in which case it would also have been impossible to find belays. The north ridge approach looked altogether too long for it to be a first preference. Judgement was suspended about the west ridge, as it could not be surveyed from this angle. Thus the Grand Couloir of the west face was chosen as the preferred route for the first attempt the following day, on the assumption that most recent snowfall would have become consolidated and thus the risk of a serious avalanche hazard low.

At 5:30 on 5 September, Colin, Gurpal, David, Titch and Andy set off for the west col, this time making good progress on the firm snow. After a brief rest David and Andy set off to fix 120 m of rope across a rock band which barred entry to the Grand Couloir. The rock band was graded at Scottish % and the fixing of the rope would save considerable time the following morning.

Meanwhile, Titch, Gurpal and Colin went up to the west col, where the west ridge and the glacier basin beyond were reconnoitred. On their return they set about constructing a bivvy trench where the five climbers could lie comfortably out of any wind, but at 5500 m progress was slow and the work hard, despite everyone's involvement. During this time we discussed the options for the climbing teams, and decided on two ropes. One rope was to be David, Andy and Gurpal; the other Titch and I. I felt that this offered the best combination of talent, experience, inexperience and stamina. After a lot of brewing all were in their sleeping bags by 18:00 for what turned out to be a restless and mainly uncomfortable night. At 02:00 we got up and along with a certain amount of bad language were off by 02:45.

In the darkness there was some confusion at the fixed rope over the rock band; the two teams climbing on single ropes were soon established in the couloir. David's rope were supposed to jumar up first, but Andy was a little slow and in a bad mood, so went up last. This decision was not communicated to David, who was not pleased at the turn of events. Nevertheless David's rope was soon moving, taking a line on the right of the couloir. Titch and I headed out slightly to the left. It was not particularly cold and so the snow was soft. Snow stakes were used at the belays, but their effectiveness in the event of a fall was questionable. Gurpal's rope and belay techniques also caused some concern.

As daylight dawned promising a fair day, it was clear that we had already gained some height. But allowing for the clarity of Himalayan air, we had probably over 400 m more of height to gain. A couple of pitches later David indicated that he was cold and that to keep warm he would solo alongside Andy. However, David soon left Andy behind and took the unilateral decision to continue the rest of the route by himself, much to the annoyance of the rest. As Andy was left to climb alone with Gurpal, he was particularly unhappy.

David's line took him up the right side of the couloir and on to the west ridge some 200 m down from the summit. After negotiating loose and snowed-up rock, the summit was reached at 08:30. He descended directly, passing the others still on the ascent, clearing his equipment and one of the stoves from the bivvy site, and reached ABC at 11:45.

Whilst David's solo ascent was a fine feat of mountaineering, the rest of us were dismayed at his lack of teamwork. That last sentence understates the degree of emotion felt — it would be fair to say that Andy felt betrayed. Given that the two teams were within easy talking distance, it was not necessary for David to take his action unilaterally. His action took the shine off what was to turn out to be a successful day.

Removing one of the two stoves also had an unforeseen consequence, as unknown to him the other stove has virtually stopped working.

The feelings of anger towards David deepened when we discovered that he had been met at ABC by Tracey and they had planned to make an ascent of CB 25. No-one in the team had permission to climb CB 25 — an illegal ascent of CB 25 could not have been easily hushed up, and could have had an adverse affect on Gurpal's future career, as well as possibly leading to the IMF banning all members of the team from future expeditions in India. On top of that Tracey did not have mountaineering insurance.

As the couloir steepened, the underfoot conditions changed from deep soft snow to hard grey ice with a thin loose covering of soft snow. At this stage the two ropes merged and I led up this more tenuous material for about 100 m until the first rock piton belay was possible. From here Andy negotiated his way through a maze of short snowed-up grooves littered with large loose blocks, meeting the north ridge at a steep wall just below the summit. Titch led up the final wall of Severe standard to reach the summit at 13:00. The altimeter showed 6105 m, above the map height of 6044 m and a Survey of India calculated value of 5950 m.

Unfortunately, by now the cloud had moved in and the view of the surrounding mountains was partly obscured. After the customary photographs and congratulations the descent began. I was last to get to the top and the first to quit it; this meant that some of us were there for over an hour - long enough for Andy to go to sleep. The descent involved 9 abseils, mostly from piton belays in the rocks on the true right bank of the couloir, to just above the fixed rope. Occasionally we tried to down climb, but the softness of the snow made this an unsafe option. We reached the bivouac site at 20:00, happy, but very tired. At this point we discovered that the remaining stove was faulty, and so were unable to brew sufficient drinks that night or the following morning.

I cannot say that I remember much about that night. The next morning we had to spend time recovering the fixed rope, which had frozen into the snow. As we were about to descend the weather changed to snow and low cloud. In Scottish-style white-out blizzard conditions we descended the glacier by a different route over to the true left side. We thought this would be less complicated than the ascent route. The difficult visibility and soft snow bridges made downward progress a slow and painful experience, rendered more difficult by the lack of a decent breakfast. We reached ABC at 13:00, where we were met with open arms by Ian, who quickly prepared hot drinks all round. After the second round of drinks we all felt a lot better.

Meanwhile David and Tracey, deterred by the weather, had abandoned their plan to attempt CB 25, and had set off back to base camp earlier in the day. We followed suit, reaching it at 17:30 to be met by Chris and the camp staff in a celeberatory mood. Whilst the celebrations in the mess tent that night were fairly riotous, there was an underlying tension within the party which meant that joy was not unconfined.

The following night David was confronted over his actions. His explanation was based upon the premise that he was going much better than everyone else and that his feet were getting cold, so it was, in his words a good mountaineering decision. This explanation failed to convince the majority, who believed that not only had he overlooked the human factors involved, but that leaving Gurpal and Andy together could not be classed as a good mountaineering decision. David and Tracey left base camp two days later to trek over the Hampta pass. They reached Manali earlier than the rest of the party, where they both unfortunately contracted an intestinal ailment.

In conclusion, whilst this was a modest expedition both in terms of cost and the target, a combination of very good advance planning and organisation, good teamwork (until 6 September), the general balance of experience in the team, a fortunate choice of agent and a fair run of weather meant that we jolly well ought to have climbed the mountain. We did, and were pleased about it. Anyone for another expedition ?

Summary : The first ascent of CB 11 (5950 m) by a British team on 6 September 1997.

 

 

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TEN JAPANESE MOUNTAINEERS succeeded in climbing Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303 m) in the summer 1997. The weather was not so good as we had expected and we suffered from high altitude sickness. But at last, on 7 August the first six members climbed up to the top. On the 10th the other four members climbed to the top with three members who climbed the peak again.

We had left Japan on 23 July and moved to Kaja on the 29th. From Kaja to Langja we hired taxis and used a tractor to carry mountaineering gear. It took only 2 hours. There we loaded them on yaks and ponies, and walked along a stream. About 6 hour walk took us to the base camp site (5100 m) which was located to the south of Chau Chau Kang Nilda II.

As soon as we arrived there, we suffered from high altitude sickness for several days and nights, and it rained, snowed and hailed there. Four of the members didn't recover from the sickness, so they went down to Langja. On 3 August weather improved and the rest of the members started to recce the route. It seemed rather difficult to climb the southeast snow face of the mountain. The east ridge also looked troublesome, because the ridge was long, not covered with snow but was rocky. The south ridge was short, but on the route there were some enormous rock towers, which we concluded were hard to climb over. By process of elimination, we adopted the southwest ridge. The ridge would lead us to the upper part of the west ridge.

We set up an advanced camp at 5600 m on the southwest ridge on 5 August. The camp consisted of 3 tents; two for the Japanese, one for the liaison officer and porters. On the 6th, three of us fixed 3 ropes (50 m each) on the southwest ridge to get to the west ridge, then we fixed 3 more ropes on the west ridge.

It was on 7 August when we left the advanced camp to make the first attempt. Six members started from the camp at around 7.30 a.m., when there was almost no cloud in the sky. The liaison officer and two porters followed us. From the end of the fixed ropes we fixed another 14 ropes (about 50 m each). At 15:30 we arrived at the top. We enjoyed superb scenery. Then we hurried down to the base camp and were welcomed at the camp at 20:30 in the evening by other members who had walked up from Langja after having recovered.

On the 9th, four members climbed up to the advanced camp with the 3 members who had stood on the top 2 days before. On the 10th, they followed the fixed ropes and stood on the top. Walking down, we removed all the ropes and anchors. Three porters helped us in the task. Without waiting at the advanced camp tents, we galloped down to the base camp.

On the following day porters went up to remove the tents at the advanced camp. On the 13 th., we closed the base camp and walked down to Langja and reached Kaja by taxi.

Members : Morio Takahashi (leader), Hiroshi Tanaka (deputy leader), Shigeo Oka, Syouji Miyazaki, Tetsuo Sekiguchi, Takeaki Sonoda, Yoshio Yokoyama, Noboru Tsuihiji, Akihiro Nagasawa and Nobuyoshi Arai.

Summary : An ascent of Chau Chau Kang Nilda (6303 m) in Spiti by Japanese mountaineers, on 7 and 10 August, 1997.

 

 

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WE SPENT A MONTH in the Rupshu valley in Ladakh, India, in 1997. Between 1988-1995 the Tokai Branch of the Japanese Alpine Club had sent four expeditions mainly consisting of climbers over 50 years to the Indian Himalaya, climbing over a height of 6000 m. Fortunately all the expeditions were successful in the past. This was my third expedition to Ladakh.

We collected information about Kula (6546 m) from Professor Masato Oki who had made the first ascent of Sara Shuwa (6238 m) in 1995.¹ We gathered information about the Rupshu area through the article on the first ascent of Lungser Kangri (6666 m) in 1995, the highest mountain in Rupshu, climbed by Harish Kapadia, a climber from Bombay.²

 

As we came to know of.Kula as 'Chalung' at first from the AMS map.. We applied to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) and were granted permission as 'Chalung'. During a visit of Harish Kapadia to Tokyo, in February 1998, I had a chance to meet him. Then I was informed that the correct name of 'Chalung' on recent Survey of India maps was Kula. I would like to accept the suggestion of Harish Kapadia to use the name Kula (which signify three corners) instead of Chalung, as it is written on some maps.

There is a big beautiful lake named Tso Moriri in the Rupshu area. However, the volume of water running into rivers from mountains was sparse because of dry inland areas. As a practical problem, it was very difficult for us to find the site for a base camp. Hence we sent two members to find out the suitable climbing route one week earlier than the date of departure of the main team.

They reached Sumdo on 28 June by jeep with two high-altitude porters from Manali. Going past Kiagar la, they surveyed the southwest valleys of Kula. This area is surrounded by mountains till height of over 6300 m and there are several glaciers and ponds. However they hardly found water on the southwest side. Eventually they found the climbing route after having gone up Ribil phu (river) to the height of c. 5300 m from Sumdo, on the north of Kula.

The main party consisted of ten members well acclimatised to high altitude by staying in Leh, arrived in Sumdo on 5 July. All members of the expedition gathered on 7 July and started to go up and along the Ribil Phu with donkeys, ponies and yaks. On the way, as a female member was injured being thrown-off a pony on the route to base camp, T. Suzuki, the leader took her Leh accompanied with another female member. The rest constructed base camp on the plain, 4800 m high.

On 8 July, Camp 1 was established (c. 5300 m). We could use ponies till C1 following the trails of shepherds. C1 site was a pleasant place with clear and abundant water.

On 10 July , Camp 2 (c. 5800 m) was established on the moraine, little below the snow line and close to the snout of the north glacier. The route till there passed over several old moraines. From this location, we could see well the route to the summit of Kula. After sun set there was heavy snowfall.

On 11 July, as the weather improved, four Japanese members, liaison officer and three high-altitude porters started climbing towards the summit. At first they went up on the slanting surface of the glacier. In order to avoid risks, they attempted the northwest ridge, full of rocks, leading to the summit. There was danger of avalanche on the glacier which was covered with fresh snow.

The ridge consisting of rocks, starting from 6300 m, was fragile. It was necessary to fix ropes of 160 m on the rocks. After having climbed for 200 m from the end of ropes, they traversed to the left and went over steep slope with ice for about 100 m. The higher they climbed, the more tired they became. Then the steep slope turned gentler and they reached the summit of Kula soon. It took them about six and half hour to reach the summit from Camp 2. The members who made the first ascent were T. Mizuno, T. Maruyama, Ms N. Nakaseko, K. Kikuchi, D. Kirti (liaison officer) and three high-altitude porters.

On 13 July two days after the first ascent, K. Tamakoshi, H. Imada and a high-altitude porter repeated the ascent.

On 15 July, T. Suzuki, (leader) who had returned from Leh, T. Tanaka, Ms. K. Kojima, Ms K. Watanabe (over 60 years), four high-altitude porters reached the summit. From the summit, we could see many mountains endlessly into Tibet in the east, Lungser Kangri, mountains in Spiti in the south, Tso Moriri lake, Sara Shuwa and Mentok in the west. It was a splendid and unforgettable view.

The four Japanese members who were in the third party were over 60 year-old. After collecting all of fixed ropes on the rocks, we returned to Sumdo on 17 July.

On Kula, glaciers were smaller than other mountains in the Indian Himalaya and the dangers to the summit were few. Because of that our climbing was not as difficult as expected.

Members: Tsuneo Suzuki (leader), Tatsumi Mizuno (climbing leader), Hiroshi Tamakoshi, Tamon Tanaka, (Ms) Kiyoko Kojima, (Ms) Kumi Watanabe, (Ms) Naoko Nakaseko, (Ms) Yoshiko Hamada, (Ms) Yasuyo Mizuhata, Hideshi Imada, Keiichi Kikuchi And Tsuyoshi Maruyama (manager)
Organised by : The Japanese Alpine Club-Tokai Branch

Summary : The first ascent of Kula (6546 m), in the Rupshu valley, Ladakh, by a team of Japanese mountaineers. The summit was climbed on 11, 13 and 15 July 1997.

 

 

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K2 WAS FIRST CLIMBED by an Italian expedition in 1954.

Since then many more expeditions have attempted K2; many tragic dramas are inscribed into the mountain's steep ridges. This is why it is called a 'cold-hearted mountain'. This second highest mountain in the world, towering over the innermost reaches of the Baltoro glacier, still appeals to mountaineers to this day with its imposing height, and never ceases to attract them. We decided to attempt the mountain via the south-southeast rib.

The 19 young members of the Japanese Alpine Club's Youth Division from 10 university alpine clubs with an average age of just over 26, gathered at base camp at 5200m on the Baltoro glacier on 16 June.

The group's original plan was to climb the southeast ridge, but upon learning that expeditions from Italy, Chile, Germany and Britain would be attempting the southeast ridge the same year, the route was changed to the south-southeast rib. On this route we found ourselves together with a Chilean expedition. Upon entering base camp we had detailed discussions with them, and our relations during the climb went smoothly, with no trouble at all.

Since many members of our expedition were young and relatively inexperienced, we used the orthodox 'Polar Method' of climbing, and used Russian-made oxygen bottles in the last stage. However, we did not use high altitude porters. We put the route in and carried the loads up entirely by ourselves.

On the lower part of the route, where we expected difficulty, there were no particular technical problems; as long as the weather remained good we were able to steadily advance up the mountain. The main problem was finding camp sites on the steep rib. We kept climbing as we looked for sites and ended up with one less camp than planned, with Camp 1 (6400 m) Camp 2 (7050 m) and Camp 3 at 7850 m.

With one less camp, the burden of portering loads up was also decreased. Of our 18 members, 16 carried loads up to Camp 3, at almost 8000 m, without a single person getting sick. This seemed to be a precursor of success for the climb.

At the small frozen camp sites, Camp 1 and Camp 2, we carried up a construction pick to cut the ice and rock and secure enough space for those camps. Even so, our tents hung out several tens of centimetres into space.

Last year's summer weather in the Karakoram was generally poor. We were unable to move for several days immediately after entering base camp, and again for a 10-day period in the middle of the climb. Then in the final stage, in early August when preparations for the summit assault were completed and we were resting in base camp, we were stalled by the weather more than 10 days for a third time, threatening to extend our total climbing period past 60 days. For a while our prospects looked dim, but when it came time to make the fateful decision our members' strong desire to make the summit called for a firm decision to continue.

Finally, on 12 August 6 of our members, Masayuki Matsubara (31), Taro Tanigawa (29), Kenzo Akasaka (28), Bunsho Murata (26), Atsushi Shiina (26) and Yuichi Yoshida (26), made it to the summit between 11:10 a.m. and 1:50 p.m. Then on the 14th, another 6, Atsushi Yamamoto (33), Hideki Inaba (32), Koji Nagakubo (27), Hirotaka Takeuchi (25), Takashi Sano (23) and Kazuhiro Takahashi (22), again made it to the summit between 7:30 and 11:20 a.m., a total of 12 successful members. We were the first expedition in history to have a double-digit number of K2 summitters and also put the youngest climbers in history on the summit. All descended safety.

Environmental preservation was clearly established as one of the objectives of our expedition. It was considered in our budgeting and scheduling. We kept packaging to a minimum, incinerated burnable waste, properly disposed of human excrement and removed all our equipment including ropes and tents. In all we collected 250 kg of waste, enough for 11 porter loads. This figure included 100 kg left by previous expeditions. Our members were young but they were very conscious of their responsibility to the environment and went about the task enthusiastically.

Even more than making it to the summit, we are proud of having brought everyone back to Japan safely, with little or no accidents, injuries, illness or frostbite. Our members were young but thoroughly responsible, capable of taking care of themselves, able to exploit the physical strength and techniques that they acquired in university alpine clubs. Above all it was their youth, enthusiasm for the mountains and perseverance that brought success.

Chronology of Climbing Activities (1996)

20 May : Nepal advance party (Matsubara, Nagakubo, Takahashi) departed from Narita.

24 May : Pakistan advance party (Tanigawa, Murata, Shiina, Yoshida) departed from Narita.

31 May : Pakistan main party (12 members led by Yamamoto) departed from Narita.

4 June : Travelled to Skardu by air.

8 June : Approach march started.

16 June : Arrived at Base Camp (BC, 5200 m).

17 June : Reconnaissance to starting point of climb up south- southeast rib, organised supplies.

18 to 21 June : Stalled by bad weather.

22 June : Actual climbing started.

24 June : Arrived at site of cache at 6050 m.

27 June : Arrived at site of C1 (6400 m.) 4 July : Established C1.

9 July : Arrived at site of C2 (7050 m). 11 July : Established C2.

28 July : Arrived at site of C3 (7850 m, shoulder of) southeast ridge of K2).

11 August : Established C3.

12 August : First assault party (Matsubara, Tanigawa, Akasaka, Murata, Shiina, Yoshida) reached summit.

14 August : Second assault party (Yamamoto, Inaba, Nagakubo, Takeuchi, Sano, Takahashi) reached summit.

15 August : All members returned to base camp.

18 August : Vacated base camp, started return march. 22 August : Arrived at Askole. 1 September : All members returned to Narita.

Summary: Two ascents of K2 (8611 m). on 12 and 14 August 1996 sit ranges each reached. They summit via south-southeast rib.

 

 

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WE DEPARTED FOR PAKISTAN on 24, May 1996, after more than one year of programming and intensive physical training. We arrived at base camp on 11 June after a few days in the capital of the country, Islamabad, and the hiring of the porters in the town of Skardu. We were a total of nine persons: seven mountaineers, one physician and one cameraman. (Mountaineers: Alberto Gana, Waldo Farias, Aldo Boitano, Misael Alvial, Michael Purcell, Cristian Garcia-Huidobro and Rodrigo Jordan (expedition leader).

A large Japanese expedition of eighteen members arrived some days later to climb by the same 'Cesen Route' that we were to take; that is, the south-southeast buttress. We agreed with them to carry on two completely independent ascents in fixing the ropes as well as in the setting of the camps. This agreement was wholly honoured by both expeditions.

Little by little we fixed ropes and by the end of June we reached Camp 1, after climbing several complicated meters of rope because of too much snow over rock. The spot was at 6300 m, on a narrow rock terrace with hardly any space for our tents.

The weather during this period - as well as during the entire expedition - was very bad, with two or three fair days followed by six to ten days of foul weather. We continued fixing ropes and carrying loads and by the middle of July we set up Camp 2, (7000 m). Above 6500 m the route was relatively simple, but we had to walk on deep snow.

The weather remained bad but the sun showed again by the end of July. One Japanese, in a solo ascent, and four Italians took advantage of this spell reaching the summit by the normal route. Unfortunately they arrived at the summit late in the day and one of the Italians died due to a fall during the night descent.

During this spell of good weather we fixed ropes up to 7400 m and set up a depot. The seven mountaineers reached the shoulder, at 7600 m, with all the supplies needed for the attack of the summit, which was to be carried out by four climbers.

The weather turned bad again and we had to wait for ten days to try to climb the summit. There was a spell of good weather on 9 August. We climbed directly to Camp 2 without stopping to sleep at Camp 1. We climbed 2000 m in about 12 hours. We arrived rather tired due to deep snow, that was deposited by ten days of snowfall.

The attack on the summit was carried out by Cristian Garcia- Huidobro, Misael Alvial, Michael Purcell and myself; Waldo Farias. Aldo Boitano helped in carrying supplies to the shoulder.

Next day we climbed to Camp 3 on the shoulder. We arrived exhausted because we had to climb by the Cesen Shovel through powder snow. That night we slept eight hours with oxygen to recover fully from the effort carried out during the previous two hard days. We chose to rest the next day. It snowed lightly, but six Japanese reached the summit using oxygen continuously during the climb and the descent.

We started shortly before 9:00 p.m., with our headlights on. We were heavily loaded, each one carrying a sleeping bag, a portable stove, a pot, a shovel and some food and water. Misael and I used oxygen for a while because we were very tired.

In the Bottleneck we found some ropes fixed by the Japanese the previous day. We left some things there to lighten our load. We stopped to rest on a terrace at 8400 m and we enjoyed a marvellous dawn. Here we shared the oxygen with Cristian (we were carrying two bottles for the four of us) who continued opening the trail. We reached the summit after a few hours of climbing over easy slopes which were covered with deep and unstable powder snow. Cristian reached the summit at 09:15 a.m. and the rest at 10:30 a.m. We stayed on the summit for two hours, starting down at 12:30 p.m. The descent was very difficult because Michael was extremely exhausted and walked slowly. We had to stop several times to wait for him. Night fell when we were at the Bottleneck. We arrived at the camp at 10:30 p.m. after climbing for more than twenty-five hours.

Next day we came down safely to base camp. That same day six additional Japanese made it to the summit, completing twelve Japanese climbers to reach the summit by this route.

The South-South East Buttress: A new normal route For K2 ? (Waldo Farias F.)

The south-southeast buttress had been previously climbed to the summit on only two occasions by Spanish mountaineers; Basque in 1994 and Catalonians in 1995. The last more than one died coming down from the summit. It must also be mentioned that in 1983 an attempt was made by an expedition headed by Doug Scott that almost reached the Shoulder, and the extraordinary solo climb of Tomo Cesen, in 1986, that too without oxygen and fixed ropes. He reached the Shoulder and descended by the Abruzzi buttress in only nineteen hours.

The Basques who climbed this route in 1994 said that this route seemed easier to them than the normal route by the Abruzzi buttress and that it should become a better option than that one.

As it is stated in K2, Challenging the Sky, by Diemberger and Montovani, we think that the Basque route is not easier than the Abruzzi buttress. The traverses which we had to overcome before and after Camp 1 made us believe that the opposite was true. Because of powder snow, not very deep over rock or ice, which doesn't allow for good anchorage, climbing through this sector was very unstable. Likewise, above Camp 1 two long and quite complicated and unprotected stretches of rock must be climbed. We felt that the difficulties which we had to overcome were in no way less than those of the normal route, whose main technical problem was the 'Chimney House', that frequently was equipped with fixed ropes and even with ladders. It must be considered that several of the best mountaineers of the world, such as the British Doug Scott and Andy Perkins, and the Polish Kurtyka and Wielicki, have failed on the Basque route.

This was why over decades the mountaineers have chosen the Abruzzi buttress as the easier and faster climbing route, in spite of the fact that the south-southeast buttress is nearer base camp than the Abruzzi. How can it then be explained that for such a long time nobody discovered that the Basque route was the easier one ?

Because of above reasons we believe that the normal route was technically easier than the south-southeast buttress, even though this had been climbed by twenty-three persons in only three years (1944-5, 1995-2, 1996-16).

However, we agreed with the Basque mountaineers that this route was probably the safest on the mountain. During our stay on the route for more than two months there were no avalanches except for a few at the base of the route, the day after snow storms that lasted more than a week; but the avalanches fell down along colouirs at both sides of the ridge.

There were no falling stones either, because most of the route was over snow and the rock was of relatively good quality. Also, the places for camping were protected from the wind; we never had a broken tent, while in the normal route an Italian camp was completely destroyed, as well as one of a Japanese. Furthermore, near our Camp 2, at 7000 m there was a tent left by the Spaniards who climbed in 1994 or 1995 still in good condition. However, there were few and narrow places to set Camp 1. This was established at 6300 m lengthening the distance from base camp.

In short: we believe that this buttress is a safer but not an easier option to the normal route and it offers space but for one or two teams to share the route.

Why do one out of five mountaineers that reach the summit of K2 perish during the descent ? (Waldo Farias F.)

Based on our experience at K2, we want to comment about some aspects which we believe have not been sufficiently discussed in mountaineering literature on matters relating to attacks on the summit.

During the course of the expedition, the time needed to equip the route, set the camps and carry loads became relatively shorter because of the need to acclimatise as the camps were installed and duly stocked. Thus, approximately seven hours were needed from base camp to camp 1, five hours from Camp 1 to Camp 2 and about six hours from Camp 2 to Camp 3. It must be stressed that these times are true with good snow conditions and the use of fixed ropes. Depending on the season - not ours, because the monsoon arrived on K2 in the summer of 1996, - may be the route could be climbed in the alpine style.

Hydration and feeding during these days were always very good and suitable. We drank at least five litres of liquids per day and had abundant food rations available. Because of this it was possible to lessen the subjective risks caused by the altitude and mainly those due to insufficient hydration, like oedemas and freezing, to a minimum. However, during the attack on the summit, climbing conditions were completely different, because it was hardly possible to be as careful and to take the same precautions as when equipping the route.

This was due to several factors :

(a) Lack of oxygen : (a factor common to other mountains over 8400 m). It is well known that less than half of the mountaineers are able to climb above 8400 m without using artificial oxygen. This lack of oxygen increases the risks arising from staying at high altitudes, like oedemas, freezing, delusions, etc and leads to a loss of logical reasoning and judgement. Therefore, climbers in this altitude suffer a certain degree of unconsciousness that many times makes them mistakenly appraise the risks and commit serious errors, no matter how much experience they may have.

This, aside from the fact that because the ascent is much slower due to extreme exhaustion and the descent - that usually takes place in late hours and even at night - is carried out with diminished energy, the risk of accidents is increased. This was why the Chilean expedition to K2 decided to start the attack on the summit at night to guarantee the descent during the light hours.

(b) Dehydration : The minimum of five litres of liquids that must be drunk daily is considerably reduced on the jaunt of the climb to the summit because the mountaineers don't carry such an amount and often the body repels almost all foods. It is well known that the lack of oxygen thickens the blood, increasing the hematocrit that is already at a high level due to a lengthy stay at a high altitude. If the body does not consume enough water to contribute to a more fluent circulation of the blood, the risk of freezing is obviously higher.

(c) Insufficient equipment: Usually, mountaineers face this last jaunt with a minimum of equipment in order to climb lighter, relinquishing basic items for survival, such as water, sleeping-bag and stove. In the case of a bivouac at high altitude or of a sudden weather change, they find themselves unprotected and descent turns into a true race against death, besides the fact that the risk of freezing is extremely high. Instead, it is true that we climbed with backpacks quite heavy- above 10 kilos- everyone took a Gore-tax sleeping bag, two litres of water, spare batteries one shovel and some food.

(d) A great difference of elevation and the difficulty of the route : To reach the summit (by the normal route and by the south- southeast buttress) a difference in height of about 1000 m must be overcome, depending on the location of the camp on the Shoulder. Climbing this difference demands an effort of several hours (usually between ten and fifteen hours). This implies that climbers reach the summit very late and exhausted, with little time and energy for the descent. This, plus the severe technical difficulty of the 'Bottleneck' (8000-8300 m) add up to increase the risk for exhaustion. The risk on other routes can be greater, specially if the descent is at right. This scenario is aggravated by the fact that those thousand meters are not equipped with fixed ropes that would help in the ascent and provide for a safer and faster descent.

The above considerations, plus the conditions of the snow encountered in the 'Triangular Rock', at 8350 m, endorsed our decision to start the climb at night, resting the previous night and day, using oxygen. The attack on the summit of K2 is extremely long and dangerous. This explains that more than half of the deaths have occurred during the descent from the summit and that one out of five persons reaching its summit dies descending.

Summary : An ascent of K2 (8611m) by a Chilean expedition in July 1996.

 

 

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SIX MEMBERS INCLUDING the leader of the Skilbrum (7360 m) expedition died on 20 August 1997 in an avalanche..

The Japan Skilbrum expedition, 1997, led by Mitsuo Hiroshima was organised as a project of the 50th anniversary celebrations of the independence of Pakistan and the 20th anniversary of Japan Mountaineering Association's (JMA) K2 expedition 1977. Most of the members had been either in JMA's K2 expedition 1977 or Spantik expedition 1992, and had been to Karakoram some other times as well. Hiroshima, the leader, had been to Pakistan 57 times..

We left Japan on 11 July 1997 and started our caravan march on 19th from Tongal with 148 local porters. On the 25th, we established our BC(5300 m) on Savoia glacier without difficulty as we had done training for acclimatisation on Mt. Fuji in Japan..

We started our climbing from the 27th and C1 (6700 m) was established on the 30th. On the way to C1, we could see K2 west face on the right side, and Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Chogolisa and some other remarkable peaks behind it..

During that summer, the weather was fine throughout, but it changed from the beginning of August. C2 (6700 m) was established on 11 August. From C2, we could see Muztagh Tower to the west and Baintha Brakk, Latok and Chiring far behind it. We felt that we were just in the centre of the Karakoram..

We stopped our first attempt on the summit due to bad weather on the 12th. The second team had to abandon its attempt at the height of 6900 m due to shortage of time on the 15 th. The third team reached directly 60 m under the summit on the 16th. Finally, on 17 August, the fourth team of eight members, Nakagome, Tsutimori, Koseki, Kamata, Hatsushika, Matsuda, Kikuta (Ms), Hiroshima, reached the summit a few minutes past 15:00. The first ascent of this peak was done in 1957 by an Austrian team, M. Schmuck and F. Vinterschteller, and ours was the second..

All members returned to BC safely on the 18th, and all luggage were packed in order on the 19th..

At 1:15 a.m. on 20 August our BC was hit by an intense blast wave caused by a huge ice-avalanche from the hanging glacier on Angel Peak. All the tents in which members were sleeping were blown and knocked down on the glacier. Six members died and four were injured in this accident..

On that day, we were going to start our return caravan march to Skardu. If the ice-avalanche had come three hours later, nobody would have been killed or injured.

JAPAN SKILBRUM EXPEDITION 1997

Leader: Mitsuo Hiroshima (54, died)
Deputy leader: Shigeru Nagasawa (47, died)
Climbing leader : Seijiro Nakagome (50, died)

Members : Masao Koseki (36), Shigeru Morozumi (39), Shigeo Oda (51, injured), Hiroshi Onoue (41), Minoru Kamata (35, injured), Hiroyasu Hatsushika (36, injured), Kensuke Matsuda (54, injured), Kohei Taniguchi (34), Yoshiko Kikuta (Ms 37 died), Naoe Shibata (57), Yuzuru Tuchimori (60, died), Tatsuya Harada (62, died) and Tomoko Arimoto (Ms 61) (She was safe due to her staying back in Skardu.)

Summary : The second ascent of Skilbrum (7360 m) by an Japanese expedition. Six members were killed in an avalanche at base camp.

 

 

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The approach

OFFICIALLY COUNTED 8 STAGES and can be done in 5 days. We started at Tissar (just across the bridge from the road fork to the Baltoro region), because the road was blocked. Sometimes Doko, - or even Arandu - can be reached by jeep. For us, on the way up and the way down, this was not the case.

We stopped at - Doko (jeep road)
- Arandu (1/2 day only, jeep road)
last village, glacier snow

(Corresponding - Manpihuru (Green. On lateral moraine.

'Shing Kuru'Covered shelters)

on SSAFBolocho (last place on lateral moraine.

KarakoramSmall shelters)

Map.)BC (whole day walk on the glacier)

We took 27 porters from Tissar. Since the Sirdar came from the same village, he was a bit 'soft' at times. In Arandu we had to change about 8 porters against 8 locals. This is the custom. It's like a toll fee. They would not let an expedition pass otherwise.

On the 5th day noon (2 August) we reached BC, situated at the foot of Spantik's long SE shoulder.

On the SSAF Karakoram map the BC at 4300 m is shown at the exact spot.

We took a rest (and sorting out) day on 3 August and started hauling the next day.

We did not hire high altitude porters.

The route descriptions of the Polish 1969 and the Austrian 1971 expeditions to Malubiting were quite correct. Between 6 August and 9 we established Camp 1 and carried some equipment upto Camp 2 and Camp 3.

 

After a rest day at base camp we started summit attempt on 11 August. Established Camp 1 the same day, Camp 2 on the 12th.

Next to base camp the glacier drops steeply. Just as for the way upto Spantik, a green schistose slope just above BC was climbed. This place was sometimes visited by local rock crystal hunters camping on the ridge top of the Cathedral (4492 m) across the glacier. From above BC we either followed lateral snowfields or slopes of loose schistose debris upto a point where it was feasible to step back onto the glacier. Some crevasses, then Camp 1 at the foot of a prominent rocky ridge, a low spot on the glacier. From Camp 1 up steep snow for 100-150 m (still on the left), then some odd zigzagging around big crevasses, and finally a gentle slope upto Camp 2 (next to a big crevasse, well away from Polan la, and from the walls of Malubiting North!) The main problem was the heat and the sun's radiation, reflected by the snow, by the slopes of Polan la and the bright walls to both sides. Hats with attached neck protection were a must, also perfect sunglasses with side and nose protection. We used long- sleeved shirts and two kinds of sun protection for the skin. We often left the camp before dawn for best snow conditions and to avoid the merciless solar radiation. We usually called it a day not too late in the afternoon to leave enough time for cooking, drinking and filling the thermos bottles for next morning. This probably contributed to our good acclimatisation. None of us suffered from any HACE or HAPE symptoms or lost his appetite during the whole climb. We did not use any medicaments except some Aspirins. (I'd have to mention some excessive Imodium intake in Skardu).

The 300 m high snow slope upto Polan la is about 45° steep and should be done before 9 a.m. due to increasing heat. On August 15th Camp 3 on Polan la was complete. We enjoyed a great view onto Barpu glacier and across to Ultar and Hunza peaks, Shishpare Sar and Pasu and Batura massives. In the afternoon Ruedi Karrer and I tackled the north aréte of Malubiting North with fixed ropes. Our two friends put up tents, dug a 'kitchen cave' and prepared a yummy welcome menu. Next day Dieter, Matthias and I tackled the rest of the aréte and carried up part of the equipment. The aréte is a 3rd class climb, starting with loose schistose, then better granite/ gneiss. We found 3 or 4 pitons and a lot of thin, old fixed rope still in place, just about fallen apart. So we decided to use new fixed ropes; a total of 270 m, all of which we took back down at the end of the climb. The aréte and the following snow ridge brought us upto an inviting flat spot below a 15 m - high vertical ice wall. The Polish (1969) and the Austrians (1971) set up camp here. Unlike the Austrians, we traversed right from here and tackled a short, steep ice-wall. Just above this, on a slope beneath another vertical ice wall, we set up Camp 4 on 17 August.

Next morning we got to use our short skis and skins to traverse horizontally to the right, then upto a small step that we tackled with the help of a short piece of rope. Still beneath the west face of Malubiting North, we continued a bit upto the big plateau and set up Camp 5 at the rim of the huge crevasse on the right. Camp 4 to Camp 5 is comparatively short, so there was time for cooking and rest.

Next morning 19 August we started at 2.30 a.m. The big plateau was traversed, straight towards our aim, Malubiting West. Gentle slopes lead up to a bergschrund of soft snow, and soon an inviting spot was reached, some 50 m below the pass between central and west peaks. We took a good rest and cooked a pot of bouillon. At an altitude of now 7150 m, we looked down to Malubiting North and Spantik. They appeared to be one and the same mountain.

None of us quite felt at ease. Finally Matthias and I decided to go for the summit. Ruedi and Dieter suffered from some fever and headache. At about noon, we climbed the slope to the pass and continued right up the snow ridge. The view from here was overwhelming! Nanga Parbat in the distance, then Haramosh, Laila and a part of Chogo Lungma glacier, from our position seen just right of Malubiting Central. Breathing became difficult, and I was glad that Matthias carried the rucksack. There was one vertical step that could be climbed through sort of a snow-gully on the left. We reached the summit on 13.30 and made, what seems to be, the 2nd ascent of Malubiting West after the 1st ascent by Austrians led by Hanns Schell in 1971.

Doing the last steps upto the summit we could not help crying. All the drudgery and pain of the last weeks was resolved into sheer joy! But still we are not saying that we 'conquered this mountain in spite of all adversities', no. We were able to climb it thanks to good conditions and a period of 11 days of perfect weather.

In only one and a half hours we were back at Camp 5 where we met Ruedi and Dieter, cooking.mountain.

Next day we descended to Camp 3 and took everything down with us. The following day, 21 August, we made it down to base camp, leaving some material between Camps 1 and 2, which we carried down on the occasion of a punitive expedition two days later. From 26 to 28 August we walked back to Chutron near Tissar with 15 porters, carrying our and some other people's rubbish down. Unfortunately, some equipment was stolen by the porters. The Sirdar insisted on not paying any wages to the three guilty men.

We jeeped to Skardu on 29 August and flew to Rawalpindi/Islamabad on 31 August, spent a lot of time in the bazars and flew home on 5 September.

Summary : An ascent of Malubiting (7453 m) by the Swiss expedition on 20 August 1997. This was the second ascent of the west peak.

Photo 44

 

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