ROUND KANGCHENJUNGA

DORJEE LHATOO

THE FIRST EVER complete circuit of Kangchenjunga was accomplished by a team of Europeans and native carriers under the leadership of the distinguished explorer and mountaineer, Douglas Freshfield, in the autumn of 1899.

The expedition took off from Darjeeling on 5 September. Passing through the Teesta valley by way of Gangtok, Chungtang and Lachen they headed north to Zemu glacier. After failing to find a way across the formidable Nepal Gap (6170 m) due to inclement weather and heavy snow conditions on the ground, they travelled through the Lhonak valley and crossed the relatively easier pass, Jongsong la (6145 m), into Nepal. They then descended by the great Kangchenjunga glacier to the village of Gunsa (3414 m), meaning, in Tibetan, 'winter land'. Crossing over Mirgin la (4500 m) and through the Yalung valley, they crossed the Khang la (5034 m) back into Sikkim and returned to Darjeeling.

Apart from being a mountaineering feat accomplished under severely trying conditions, the expedition succeeded in exploring the subsidiary mountain ranges, glaciers and rivers emanating from the great Kangchenjunga massif. They also produced some amazingly accurate geological and geographical maps. Subsequently, Douglas Freshfield wrote the classic book Round Kangchenjunga published in 1903.

After Freshfield's adventure, although portions of Kangchenjunga, and its surrounding high valleys and ranges had been explored by different individual surveyors and mountaineers, and parts of the route including the high pass of Jongsong la had been retraced, a complete circuit was done only 30 years later, in 1930.

In the spring of that year an international team comprising of Austrians, British, Germans and Swiss under the leadership of Prof. G. Dyhrenfurth came through Darjeeling to climb the Kangchenjunga glacier. Large quantities of stores and a vast caravan of porters were taken. They kjft Darjeeling on 7 April for the Kangchenjunga base camp in Nepal by way of the Rangeet valley, Yoksum, Dzongri, across the Khang la, Tserum, Mirgin la and Gunsa. Many difficulties cropped up while crossing the Khang la due to heavy winter snow lying on the pass. They also faced complications ovwng to a shortage of porter-food, resulting in desertion by the porters. The expedition eventually reached Pangpema (5139 m) where they established their base camp. But despite the whole-hearted effort, the attempt to climb Kangchenjunga was foiled by many set-backs, including an avalanche in which a Sherpa was killed and the route between C2 and C3 obliterated. Having abandoned the attempt on Kangchenjunga they split into groups and made ascents of some subsidiary peaks. While some of the members retraced their way to Darjeeling via Gunsa, Tserum, Khang la and the Rangeet valley, Frank Smythe and his party, crossing over the Jongsong la and having ascended Jongsong peak (7459 m), descended by the Lhonak valley to Lachen. They moved down the Teesta valley to Gangtok and then to Darjeeling, thus completing the second circuit round Kangchenjunga. Frank Smythe recorded his story in another classic, The Kangchenjunga Adventure.

Preparations:

These two classics of mountaineering and exploration have been a source of inspiration for many mountaineers and trekkers to see for themselves the glaciers, valleys and mountain passes behind this enchantingly beautiful mountain. Our expedition succeeded in completing the entire circuit from west to east on the route taken by Frank Smythe 62 years ago with slight variations. The expedition started from Darjeeling by bus on the 150 km route to Yoksum in west Sikkim, travelling through the Rangeet valley. The trek commenced on 1 November from Yoksum with sufficient food for 15 people for 20 days and clothing and climbing equipment for crossing the high passes, including Jongsong la (6145 m). In all 14 dzos¹ each to carry 60 kg, were employed from Yoksum to Gunsa, beyond which till Pangpema eight fresh dzos were employed.

 

2 Nov. (Yoksum/Bakhim)

It was 0800 hrs when Ram, the cook, and I were finally ready to leave Darjeeling, the rest of the party having already left the day before. Although the drive from Darjeeling to Yoksum via Singla, Nayabazar and Tashiding actually takes about three hours, due to no fault of Thendu, the driver, it usually takes us much longer.

As we (with one porter) were heavily laden, about 85 kgs in all, it was slow going throughout. What normally takes me three and a half hours took us five. It was past 7 p.m. when we reached Bakhim, and pitch dark.

4 Nov. (Dzongri-Tikip Chu)

The march from Bakhim to Dzongri was normal, though the newcomers were taxed mentally and physically. A monotonous, uphill slog of 1200 m is nobody's pleasure. One can see, when approaching the Dzongri hut, obvious relief lighting up every fatigued face.

The name of the area is Sim Gairi and it was crowded with tourists of different nationalities, besides folks from Calcutta, porters and dzo drivers. The Sikkim Government, on one hand, is promoting tourism and on the other there is only one area open for trekkers,_ viz Dzongri-Guicha la.

The track from Dzongri to Tikip chu passes the Black Kabur and the Dzongri la from their left. A little below at the dzo herds' hut, bifurcating to the left, is a path to Zamlingang, the last stop on the way to the HMI base camp. Upon following this track for about 15 minutes, there is another bifurcation: the right leads to the HMI base camp and the left descends to the river, heading straight for the big island like rock in the middle of the wide sandfield marked 'Chhurong' on the map on the course of Rathong Chu. Excluding the time taken for repairing the track for the dzos, it took about 2 hours from Dzongri to Chhurong. As forewarned, there was no bridge over the Rathong Chu. Rather than attempting to ford it and get wet, a rough bridge was quickly constructed by cutting two readily available logs.

The track crossed to the southern side of Tikip Chu, which joins the Rathong Chu here, by a small bridge and leads uphill through a rhododendron jungle, keeping the Tikip Chu on the right. After about an hour's climb we reached the top, the entry to the Khang la valley, 'Tre Gyablog'. From this point one can see the upper valley and look down to Chhurong where the Tikip Chu joins the Rathong Chu. There was a feeling of satisfaction when the line of dzos, with their bells clanging away, and the dzo-drivers, whistling and shouting at their animals, were seen following us.

From this point the trail levelled off through the old moraine boulders, with rhododendrons to the left and the river to the right. In about 15 minutes, it opened into a grassy field, a perfect place to camp.

Though still an hour away from the intended destination, an abandoned dzo-herds' hut, we decided to pitch camp here, as moving on would mean a dearth of firewood as the rhododendron forest level went no further upwards. In any case, it would not be possible to cross the Khang la the next day even from the upper camp area. It would be prudent to camp here for the night, and the next day to go as close as possible to the pass, so as to make a short job of it the following day.

5 Nov. (Khang la, south camp/upper Tikip chu camp)

Still within the "Tre Gyablog' valley, we did only a short 2 hours' march. Here, there was a single dzo-herd's hut stocked with firewood. In view of the plan of the day before, this place was most suitable.

6 Nov. (Khang la, north camp)

Despite all suggestions for an early start, the camp could move no earlier than 8.30 a.m. To aggravate the situation, Thendu, in all enthusiasm, set off by himself at 8.00 a.m. and despite all shouts and signals for him to stop, he proceeded, disregarding our calls. Travelling alone in high altitudes and under such conditions is most uncalled for, so Ram Tamang and 1 raced after him. When we finally caught up with him at the pass, it was 9.30 a.m. We had taken less than one and a half hours to reach the pass but the unnecessary race left us perspiring, puffing and angry. It also left us on the pass with nothing to do but wait for the rest, braving the cold winds. The five Bengali members arrived, closely followed by the cooks and kitchen staff. The waiting game for the dzos continued.

However, when they made no appearance over the terminal moraine, (the raised point above our last camp) by 11.30, I sensed something wrong. Leaving the Bengali members and our rucksacks, in anticipation of any eventualities, I had everyone back-track with me. With the sense of urgency enhanced, what had taken us an hour and half uphill, took us even less than 20 minutes downhill.

Trouble had struck the expedition. The dzobas (dzo-drivers) had refused to move the dzos over the moraine and unburdened them at the point where the grassy field meets the terminal moraine of the Khang la glacier and that of an unnamed peak east of the Khang la. They were afraid their animals would break their legs along the ill-defined tracks across the moraine. Pressurising and deliberations were fruitless, as added to their ostensible love for their animals was also their inane fear of the unknown territories beyond the pass! The 'choicest phrases' and terms, even in the Tibetan language, had no effect on their normally sensitive temperaments.

A sense of futility overwhelmed me. Was this the end of the circuit, almost even before it started? What should be done now?

My next actions were more natural than predetermined. Amid the shouting, I pulled out a bag from the inner pocket of my anorak and drew out a wad of hundred rupee notes, and angrily threw it on the ground saying. 'There is three lakh rupees — I can pay for your animals. You dare not let us down and leave 17 people stranded here in the wilderness. I am taking your dzos across the pass whether you come or not'.

The Sherpas, hitherto silent at my invectives, sprang into action. They were very quick to load the dzos and one of them picked up the money and put it in a bag 1 was carrying. The secret was, this money was neither mine nor the expedition's; it belonged to different friends working in Darjeeling, to be distributed to their families in Gunsa and beyond.

Within minutes, the 14 dzos were on their way. As a last alternative, we might have had to carry the loads ourselves. The three dzobas, so hopelessly outnumbered, did nothing to hinder us.

At 1.00 p.m. the dzos were already well up in a column and the first five of them over the moraine. By 2.30 p.m., the first of them appeared on the Khang la and by 3.10 p.m. the last walked safely by. The dzobas, having nothing better to do, sheepishly followed the troop.

Though the sun was shining, it was very cold with a strong wind blowing from the north. Earlier, on the southern side of the pass, the ground had been dry and warmer; now the northern side was covered by one to two feet of hard snow. Men could walk over them but the animals were sinking well into the snow and some of them were bleeding from cuts on their hooves caused by the sharp rocks underneath.

We could see the Everest group of mountains very clearly in the distance. Immediately below us the Khang la north valley extended, gently punctuated by small camp sites and a stream flowing in the centre. The level grounds, higher up, were covered by frozen snow and ice; but over a thousand feet below the pass, just before the valley turned to the left, dry level ground could be clearly seen.

We, the first party, reached this spacious camp site at 4.00 p.m. The dzobas came in last, looking a bit ashamed for creating the scene in the morning, but with definite signs of relief written all over their faces. Actually it was a relief to all of us to be safely over the pass.

8 Nov. (Sa Nyamsa/Khang la pass north)

The distance being short and a gradual descent all the way, it was a less exhausting day. It was only the chilly wind, now blowing directly on our faces, that posed a slight discomfort. As we descended, we saw beautiful sites for camping at almost half-hourly intervals, each one being more attractive than the last. We chose the final one at the end of the river where it meets the Yalung Chu. Here also there was space, grass and wood in abundance.

The track, which till about 15 minutes short of the camp had been a gentle downward slope to the north of the river, suddenly climbed up. This path could have been used by both Freshfield and Frank Smythe on their journeys. It climbs quite sharply for about 150 m and then traverses round the spur that comes down from a snow and ice-ridge northwest of Kokthang. Later, from the hill northwest of the Yalung river, we saw the track descending from above the Tseram camping ground. It goes over the terminal moraine of the Yalung glacier where the Yalung Chu spreads over the plateau, allowing man and animal to wade through. The track is used in the monsoon months when the makeshift bridge lower down is washed away.

Inadvertently we had done the right thing by taking the lower track which not only led us to the camp site, but also close to the only bridge to the Tseram herds' camp.

9 Nov. (Tseram/Mirgin la)

Once again we were off at 8.30 a.m. Though repaired, the bridge was still rather unsafe, but now the dzobas would not hear of first unloading the dzos to cross the bridge. Though apprehensive, for should any dzo fall into the river, there was no chance of a rescue as the water was both swift and voluminous, the last of them crossed safely by 9.10 a.m.

A little further on, there was a perfect camping spot at the inter-section of four roads; Yalung base camp to the north-northeast, Yambuding to the south-southwest, Mirgin la to the north-northwest and Khang la to the east. A ring of boulders encircled a level platform big enough for over 25 tents. There were even caves for the porters.

From the base of the west Khang la valley, the route taken by Freshfield and Smythe is accessible to men only and not animals. It was fortunate we had not followed Smythe's trails.

Three hours of steep steady climbing, on the animal track, comes to an end at the top, marked by a 'laptsa' (high point decorated with stones and bits of prayer flags). We had mistaken this to be Mirgin la but this we were not to reach that day.

Another one and half hours of undulating hill trek over rough, rocky trail brought us only to a small camp site with juniper bushes for firewood and a small trickle of water. We had passed two better camp sites but decided against the<n, for Gunsa would be too far from them. The last one, about forty minutes behind us now, was Tai Go (Horse's Head), so called because of a rock of that shape.

But now both man and animal were stretched to the utmost and rest seemed unavoidable, as it was almost 4.00 p.m. and it was becoming cold.

10 Nov. (Mirgin la/Se Lele/Gunsa)

We discovered that Mirgin la was just half an hour away and the one we had mistaken for it was 'Choedang'. Even after Choedang, there was another very prominent pass-like feature with cairns and prayer flags.

Mirgin la is also likewise marked with stones on the crest of the ridge forming the pass. Although the high mountains of the Khumbu Himal, like Everest, Makalu and Chamlang, had been visible from the previous camp, a very special surprise awaited us at Mirgin la. As we stepped on the crested pass, there was Jannu, its southern face fully illuminated, right from its peak to most of its lower portions. So close, formidable and majestic did it look, that half an hour was spent in admiring and photographing it.

Another half hour brought us to Se Lele, its other name being Modemphuk, so given by the Limbu tribe, 'Modem' meaning 'Tibetan' and 'phuk' meaning 'cave'. This is the actual camp stage between Tseram and Gunsa as it has plenty of firewood, water and level ground enough for over 50 persons with caves for porters.

Here there was a small thatched shack of stones, wood, moss and grass, belonging to a certain Dorjee. There was also a prominent sign reading 'Se Lele Hotel' and inside one could buy tea, noodles, tobacco and local alcohol.

From here the trek to Gunsa is only 10 km, mostly downhill, with no intermediate camp sites. After the first 30 minutes the track became more steep and another 40 minutes later it reached a big river fed by the Yamatari glacier. Beside the river is a big beautiful grassy area, the 'cricket field' mentioned by Smythe. The last 15 minutes end at Gunsa.

Gunsa does not seem to have changed much from the time of Smythe's tour 62 years ago! There were about 39 families, about 300 inhabitants in all including the children. What was conspicuous was the overwhelming majority of women. The only marked difference from Symthe's report was the presence of an upper primary school (class 7), a small health post and a Nepal Police out-post. There were 10 temporary teachers for the school, a compounder for the health post, and a Sub-Inspector and four constables to man the out-post.

As soon as we reached Gunsa I went to check-in our entry at the Police out-post. However, it was rather unfortunate that due to some delays along the line, we did not have the required documents and permits for these areas and beyond. The officer was most polite but firm. The only solution he offered was that he would refer our case to his District Headquarters, Taplejung, and we would hear from them before we left at about 8.00 a.m. the next morning.

12 Nov. (Khangbachen)

Unfortunately, nothing was heard from Taplejung still. However, after much persuasion and reasoning, the whole of the police party came to see us off. Later we learnt that clearance had come from their headquarters soon after our departure.

The walk from Gunsa is pleasant, through mini pines and rhododendrons. Winter being close, the ground was dry and the area covered in a profusion of colours of dead and dying grass and leaves. The whole atmosphere had an air of serenity about it. The only drawback was that it was getting colder as we progressed upwards.

Till about midway between Gunsa and Khangbachen the track kept to the east of the Gunsa Chu, which flows from the Kangchenjunga glacier northwest. Here the terminal glaciers of Jannu and Kangchenjunga northwest combine to form a gigantic lake — what Frank Smythe mentioned in his book as a threat to habitation lower down the valley. The track at this point is prone to land-slides and difficult to traverse. Fortunately, the climate being dry, except for some scary exposures of direct falls into the river, the path was not totally inaccessible. After a four-hour's trek we were at Khangbachen.

It is situated at the confluence west of the Gunsa Chu and a river that comes from a glacier of some small peaks on the west. The most striking view from here is that of the Jannu northwest face, a sheer red rock wall which remains in the shade throughout the year.

There are about 5 small wooden houses occupied by the people who come from Gunsa. The inhabitants, being honed fine in the art of tourist trade, not only sold fire-wood, chang and other commodities, but also let out camping grounds!

13 Nov. (Khangbachen/Pangpema)

The distance from Lhonak to Pangpema is hardly two and a half hours, so instead of wasting a day at Lhonak, we decided to split, from the main group and the yaks following slowly, while Nadre, Major, Pemba Gyalzen and I proceeded directly to Pangpema. We would thus be saving a day for reconnoitering.

The advance party made an early start and were at Lhonak in three and a half hours. Midway, there is an open pasture, suitable for camping, known as Ramthang. It is probably named after the Ramthang river, which merges with the Gunsa Chu at this place.

At Lhonak there were 3 yak-herder's tents. These young men and women were from Gunsa and Phallo. More than just minding their yaks it seemed they were there primarily to cater to the needs of tourists and travellers.

By 3 p.m. we were at Pangpema after about six and a half hours of walking on rather gradual inclines. We were to the NNW of Kangchenjunga, and the approaching winter, was making it increasingly colder. Pangpema is on the grassy slopes of the peak 'Dromo' and the northern side of the lateral moraine of the Kangchenjunga glacier. The camping ground is raised about 15 m from the main moraine level. Unlike the Everest base camp, the Kangchenjunga base camp Is on soft and grassy ground and yaks graze here in mid or early autumn. Its elevation is 5139 m and it is far cleaner than the Everest base camp. There are also two streams flowing from 'Dromo' ensuring a continuous water supply.

14 Nov. (Pangpema/Kangchenjunga CD

The most crucial part of the circuit was from here onwards, passing the Kangchenjunga west base camp, Jongsong la and the Lhonak valley until we came across habitation again. The vaguely discernible track following the eastern continuation of the Kangchenjunga glacier was our highway with almost invisible smaller roads criss-crossing it.

Going out for the recce, we followed the main Kangchenjunga. glacier, where we saw prominent glaciers of the Tent Peak and Nepal Gap Joining the glacier coming down from the Pyramid on our right, while nn icefall and a glacier from the Dromo peaks hung to our left.

Looking down on the main moraine we were discouraged by the rhaos of the glacier, crevasses and seracs. So we tried to keep mostly to the scree slope on the left. Even this, at times, was steep and difficult to walk through, but at least it led to the direct course to jongsong la.

After 4 hours of a steady paced 'Sherpa walk' we saw an old track below us on the edge of the lateral moraine which led to the main moraine valley. It was doubtful if that track went anywhere in particular now as it seemed so ancient and disused since the time of Frank, Smythe.

However, looking at the time, we thought this point would make a good one stage walk from Pangpema, so after marking the camp site, we returned. We reached the base camp by 3 p.m. and were happy to find the main party there, especially as they had hot cuppas ready and waiting for our dehydrated bodies.

Chungta, the dzo-man from Gunsa, had waited for me but since we were late, he had left the camp leaving his address behind.

Due to the terrain, the wintry conditions — especially the low night temperatures, and also the altitude, which till now had been below 5180 m, it was rather sad that Nishi Kant and the doctor could proceed with us no further.

16 Nov. (C1/C2)

The three of us started earlier than the rest at 8.00 a.m., carrying some water and fruit, towards Jongsong la. With a view to possible route making, we also carried some ropes and pitons.

Keeping a distance from the icefalls of the 'Dromo' peaks on our left and the directly falling scree and ice on our right, we had to move up and down the moraine in the middle of the valley. We then reached where the glaciers of the Long Ridge pass drop on the left and the Langpo glacier on the right flows into the Jongsong glacier from opposite directions. The valley was surrounded by peaks over 6000 m except for the outlet flowing down from the Kangchenjunga glacier behind us.

The most prominent view before us was the Jongsong peak which is all the more imposing by virtue of its proximity. As we got closer, its 7000 m ridge seemed to cover the whole horizon. The objective, Jongsong la, was hidden from view as it is towards the eastern edge of this peak. Only after the western spur of the 'Langpo' peak was negotiated could portions of the actual Jongsong la be seen. Then it seemed much further than we had imagined it to be.

The gigantic seracs mentioned by Frank Smythe now appeared at the end of the Langpo glacier as it poured into the Jongsong glacier. From this point where the Long Ridge glacier and the Langpo glacier poured into the main valley, the direction changed to the extreme northeast towards the pass.

In order to cross the pass in two days, as against the earlier three days taken by Smythe, we planned to set our second camp as close as possible to the pass. This we did by passing the seracs on the right. Although we got caught for a while in the ice-seracs it did prove a shorter and easier way. Once out of the ice-maze of the adjoining glaciers and on the Jongsong glacier proper, the valley narrowed, with the pass clearly in view in front and a part of the Jongsong glacier of the Jongsong massif on our right.

This was an idea! spot for C2 (5900 m). There was level ground free of ice and snow on the medial moraine just above the ice-serac area.

On our return to Camp I we were surprised to find that four Calcutta members and three Sherpas had returned. Now, of the Calcutta members only Shamal remained, with Thendu and Tamang. Of the Sherpas, Thendu Jamader, Pemba Gyalzen, Pasang, Major Nadre and Makalu were there. In a way it was a relief that the doubtful members had gone back, but on the other hand it left only one Calcutta member lo complete the expedition.

17 Nov. (C2)

As we only had to move up to C2, there was no hurry. Making the Sherpas carry nearly 35 to 40 Kgs each and the members up to 25 kgs each, it was 10 a.m. when we moved over the moraine heaps along the cairn marked trail.

The trek was much easier than on the previous day, but the load look its toll. It was only by 3.00 p.m. that the Sherpas and I reached our camp site.

18 Nov. (Jongsong la)

Weather-wise we had been most fortunate so far, and this day loo we were blessed by dear skies. There was just the whisper of b (jentle breeze. We could have asked for nothing better.

Since we had calculated that the distance to the pass would be I Covered in approximately 3 hours, we started the march at 8.00 a.m. After half an hour of plodding on the moraine, avoiding the seracs, we reached the general area of the pass. It was covered with reind snow; and except for a few depressions where the wind had brought soft snow and our boots sank in ankle deep, it made perfect walking conditions with crampons.

The glacier having changed, the conditions were now very different from those of. the previous crossings. The snowfield rose to a steep slope for about 150 m and then settled to a level. This level continued for about 60 m, then strangely corniced on the east side end. Below the cornice was a ditch about 40 m wide between the wall of the final pass and the main glacier. One could have climbed down into it and climbed up the other side with ease, but since we were heavily laden, we fixed ropes on the ascent towards the pass.

Though it looked easy to descend on the eastern side we despairingly discovered that fixed ropes were necessary as any possible slip would mean a sheer fall of 400 or 500 m to the glacier below at the bergschrund or into the crevasses in the icefields at the end of the slope.

Once everyone had reached the pass the fixed ropes were quickly removed from the western slope and then refixed on the eastern side before the slow descent began.

Now on the eastern side, the sun was concealed with a strong, freezing, upward wind blowing. We were off the slope by 4.00 p.m. with very little daylight left for camp setting and it was already dark when we settled uncomfortably into our tents in an equally uncomfortable camp site. We had no choice. Pasang had set his kitchen tent over an ice-hole and since it was not possible to cook anything, we had to be contented with tea and tsampa. This was the third day of such sustenance.

19 Nov. (Gomathang)

Unintentionally, I had dozed off, abandoning my vigil after the wind had abated, only to be awakened by Pasang's call for tea. It was already past 7.00 a.m. By 8.00 a.m., after a tsampa meal, we were ready and eager to descend to the grassy and softer grounds of the valley below. We aimed to head for the two green lakes indicated in the maps. Seen at the end of the Jongsong glacier, it contrasted with the reddish background of the opposite flank of the Lhonak valley.

Looking behind us we could see the panoramic display of the peaks and passes of the north ridge of Kangchenjunga joining with the Jongsong massif. Had it not been for the yearning for warmer camps below and the prospect of finding savoury food, it would have been most enticing to stay at this place a day longer to enjoy the splendid view of the ranges extending further beyond Jongsong, Chorten Nyima and the passes leading into Tibet.* After Pangpema it was our first grassy camp site, with even some yak dung around. We felt almost at home in these surroundings. The 1930 International Expedition had aptly chosen this very spot as their base camp for launching their attempt to climb the Jongsong.

20 Nov. (Lhonak Chu)

Partly due to the previous night's carousing and partly because of the relaxed atmosphere and the lazy sun which had not got off the pillows of the hilly horizons, morning tea was at 8.00 a.m. The autumn wind, annoyingly incessant, blowing day in and day out, must have also added to the general lethargy. However, having acquired much professionalism with the vigour brought on by lower altitudes, plus the possibility of a bonfire in the tree-lines, we broke camp, had breakfast and were on the move by 8.30 a.m.

We forded the Goma Chu just a little lower down before it got too big, and trekked along its northeastern bank. As we proceeded lower, the Jongsong manifested itself increasingly till the entire north ridge of Kangchenjunga presented all its major peaks protruding on this ridge. From Twins, Tent, Pyramid and Langpo peaks right across Jongsong, Lhonak and Chorten Nyima, all visible at a glance. Little wonder that the early mountaineers and trekkers were so attracted by this enchanting valley. In better climatic conditions this is certainly the ideal haven for nature lovers.

With every hour's march the scenery unfolded greater beauties of the mountains. Soon Sugarloaf unveiled itself in the distance above the black moraine hills in the west. The mighty Kangchenjunga was now a distant background. Sugarloaf is most aptly named, considering Its location, foreground and backdrop.

As the day progressed, more and more yak dung was seen but unfortunately not the elusive herds-men's huts we so hankered for, In hope of fresh milk, change of diet and the warmth of a camp fire. We did see a few bull-yaks at a distance across the river! Then we came across some footprints as we approached Zanak and then finally the first blessed hut. Soon we were passing a series of them, all blessedly deserted! We noticed that they were all solidly built to withstand almost anything — even an avalanche.

About 2 km from the last of the huts a very puzzling scene presented Itself — the grassy surface of an entire valley was pockmarked in the likeness of a flat, prairie-dog colony. They did seem like mice Imrrows, but for one thing, there were too many openings and on closer inspection they were hardly a few inches deep. The diggings were also quite fresh. Nadre explained the mystery to us: every year, at about this time, all the local people came to harvest a herb called 'bekhuma'. To get its full potency they had to dig it out right from its roots. All said and done, how much longer could this plant replenish itself and how much longer would it take to deplete this valley of this species of herb?

After another 2 km we saw a suitable spot with some dry juniper bushes. An hour's break was declared during which we had some tea and tsampa. After continuing for about a kilometre, we saw a small hillock on the further side of the Lhonak river. Here another bewildering spectacle confronted us — unexplainable flashes were seen emanating from behind the hillock. Wondering about the possibility, someone suggested that the hillock might be an army post. That being so, the flashes could only mean they were using us for target practice! Suddenly, on impulse, I shouted to everyone to hide behind the boulders, as it reminded me of the incident in 1970 on Chomolhari on the Bhutan border, when the Chinese troops opened fire on us. Whether they were shot down or not, we lost three climbing members, a Sherpa and two army officers while climbing that mountain.

It was a frightening situation with nothing to dissipate the tension — until a brainstorm hit Shyamal. Could we not display the Indian national flag we were carrying to hoist over the Jongsong la? No sooner said than done, holding the Tricolour on all sides and using it as a shield, we mustered all the reserves of our courage to move forward. Simultaneously movement was seen about 20 m ahead of us. They were soldiers and pointing their guns at us! In fright and as a last resort, but with great presence of mind, somebody shouted 'Jai Hind' which was immediately picked up by one and all. This was then followed by Hum Bharati Hai!' (We are Indians). At this the soldiers got up one by one, in all numbering about 10. Seeing us at close quarters, unarmed, fatigued, hungry and pitifully harmless, they relaxed. Frankly surmising, they could have been equally frightened of us, if not more.

After introducing ourselves and explaining our endeavours, they were most courteous and helpful; they even shared their high altitude rations of dried fruits with us. In the aftermath of the excitement, one of the soldiers asked why we had hidden behind the rocks. (As though there was any other recourse we could have taken under such conditions!) Undoubtedly our evasionary reactions had confused them further. It was only due to the good judgement of the patrol commander, a Subedar, that they had held their fire.

Having completed the formalities, the Subedar then informed his commander of the details of our identity through his radio set and set us further along a route of 8 km.

In another hour and a half we crossed the Kora Chu which joins the Lhonak Chu at the Dolma-safnpa bridge. This bridge upon the Lhonak Chu connects with the routes leading to the Zemu glacier and the valleys and ranges south of the Lhonak valley. We passed the bridge on its northern end and reached the army camp as it was getting dark.

21 Nov. (Thangu)

Thanking the officer and his men profusely for their hospitality, we proceeded at 8.00 a.m. We had no enthusiasm for. walking and even less for walking uphill. Nonetheless, it being the shortest route to the road head, Thangu, across Lugnak la (dark country), we had little choice but to endure another day's cold and uphill toil till we crossed the 5000 m pass.

The first hour was spent in a pleasant, gradual climb with northern views perpetually exposed to humour us. The attractive Roko (5974 m) seemed to be at the head of the valley rolling into Tibet. But thereafter we were in the dark and cold basin-like high valley of Lugnak la, justifying its name. Facing the wind directly in the cold morning shade was torturously freezing. To add to our predicament, the pass had to be reached in two stages on a steep angled icy slope. Annoyed by the steep climb and in all eagerness to be done with the last day's trek, everyone raced up the slope, slipping and stumbling all the way. On reaching the pass we found that we were well rewarded for our effort, the view adorned by the mountains of north Sikkim superbly on display. Chumakang, Chomoyummo, Khangchengyao et al, were at their best. A benediction to our circuit! Looking east and facing the sun, I stayed a long while on the pass, admiring the view. Though windy and cold, one could pay a fortune to be at such a place.

Half an hour's descent brought us to the motor road and in barely another hour we were at Thangu.

22 and 23 Nov. (back by road)

The following day, travelling by road, we made a brief halt at Sachen, near Lachen. The Army kindly offered refreshments and transport from Thangu to Chungthang. That night we stopped at Chungthang in a hotel and reached Darjeeling via Gangtok the following day.

We thus completed the Kangchenjunga circuit.

The following pages are based on extracts from the personal diary: they may prove of some value to future wayfarers inclined to wander along these enticing paths round Kangchenjunga.

Places along the trekking route

1. Bakhim 2700 m 15 km Sikkim 2 Nov. 1992

2. Dzongri 4030 m 12 km Sikkim 3 Nov. 1992

3. Tikip Cfoi 4000 m 12 km Sikkim 4 nov. 1992

4. Khang la,south camp 5084 m 9 km Nepal 5 Nov. 1992

5. Khang la, north camp 4400 m 12 km Nepal 6&7 Nov.

6. Sa Nyamsa (near Tseram) 3870 m 10 km Nepal 8 Nov. 1992

7. Mirgin la 4500 m 2km Nepal 9 Nov. 1992

8. Gunsa 3414 m 12 km Nepal 10 & 11 Nov. 1992

9. Khangbachen 4100 m 12 km Nepal 12 Nov. 1992

10. Lhonak West 4657 m 10 km Nepal 13 Nov. 1992

11. Pangpema (Kangchenjunga base camp) 5193 m 8 km Nepal 14 & 15 Nov. 1992

12. Jongsong la, Cl 5509 m 7 km Nepal 16 Nov. 1992

13. Jongsong la, C2 (pass) 5900 m 7 km Nepal 17 Nov. 1992

14. Jongsong la (east camp) 6145m 5km Sikkim 18 Nov. 1992

15. Gomathang 4477 m 8 km Sikkim 19 Nov. 1992

16. Muguthang 4520m 12 km Sikkim 20 Nov. 1992

17. Thangu 3420 m 9 km Sikkim 21 Nov. 1992

TOTAL: 172 km

Sponsored by: Parbat Abhiyatri Sangha, Calcutta.

----------------------SUMMARY---------------------

A circuit around the Kangchenjunga massif from Darjeeling — Nepal — across to north Sikkim — and back to Darjeeling, by the Indian team which completed the route in November 1992.

 

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