Himalayan Journal vol.23
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.23

Publication year:
1961

Editor:
Dr K. Biswas
Index
  1. NUPTSE
    (J. WALMSLEY)
  2. CAMBRIDGE EXPEDITION TO NAGIR, KARAKORAM
    (W. P. GAMBLE)
  3. NAVAL EXPEDITION TO NANDA KOT
    (INST. LIEUT. M. S. KOHLI, I.N.)
  4. HIMALAYAN SCIENTIFIC AND MOUNTAINEERŽING EXPEDITION, 1960-61
    (M. B. GILL)
  5. THE AUSTRIAN KARAKORUM EXPEDITION, 1961
    (ERICH WASCHAK)
  6. BACK TO THE BARA SHIGRI
    (J. P. O'F. LYNAM)
  7. WOMEN'S KULU EXPEDITION, 1961
    (JOSEPHINE SCARR)
  8. THE SALTORO EXPEDITION, 1960
    (P. J. STEPHENSON)
  9. ROYAL AIR FORCE KARAKORAM EXPEDITION, 1961
    (A. J. M. SMYTH)
  10. THREE MONTHS IN WEST NEPAL
    (JOHN TYSON)
  11. NEELAKANTHA-CHOWKHAMBA EXPEDITION
    (COMMODORE S. N. GOYAL)
  12. THE DERBYSHIRE HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1961
    (ROBERT PETTIGREW)
  13. A REGIMENTAL EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYAS
    (CAPTAIN J. S. KEEN)
  14. A SUMMER TRIP TO NANDA DEVI
    (HARI DANG)
  15. MANA EXPEDITION, 1961
    (BISWADEB BISWAS)
  16. THE CONQUEST OF MOUNT EVEREST BY THE CHINESE MOUNTAINEERING TEAM
    (SHIH CHAN-CHUN)
  17. EXPEDITION TO KANGCHEN JAU (22,603 FEET), 1961
    (SONAM GYATSO)
  18. ASPECTS OF THE SNOWMAN
    (H. B. GURUNG)
  19. OBITUARY
  20. REVIEWS
  21. LETTER TO THE EDITOR
  22. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1961-62
  23. THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1961-62

CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1961-62

The Thirty-third Annual General Meeting of the Club was held at the Saturday Club, Calcutta, on Tuesday, November 28th, 1961. Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams took the chair, and reported on the Club's activities during the year.

Officers, Elective Members of the Committee and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee were elected as follows: -

Officers

President ... ... Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams,

K.B.E., C.B.

Vice-Presidents ... T. H. Braham, Esq.

F. C. Badhwar, Esq., O.B.E.

Honorary Treasurer ... B. W. Ritchie, Esq.

Honorary Secretary ... D. G. Cowie, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries

Delhi Col. M. Valladares

Darjeeling M. J. Cheney, Esq.

Bombay R. E. Hawkins, Esq.

Simla Hills R. E. Hotz, Esq.

Dehra Dun Gurdial Singh, Esq.

Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin

Great Britain V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E.

Honorary Editor

Dr. K. Biswas, M.A., D.Sc, F.R.S.E, F.N.I, F.A.S., F.B.S.

Members of Committee

C. E. J. Crawford, Esq. R. Lawford, Esq.

R. E. Hawkins, Esq. K. Patterson, Esq.

M. Hruska, Esq. Gurdial Singh, Esq.

A. Kauffman, E^sq. Brig. Gyan Singh

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.

A. R. Leyden, Esq.

J. N. Mathur, Esq.

A. Madgavkar, Esq.

Other Appointments

Honorary Librarian ... R. Lawford, Esq.

Honorary Equipment Officer ... M. Hruska, Esq.

The meeting was followed by Mr. Hruska giving an account illustrated by slides of two parties that he had taken to the Kanchen- junga area. Twenty-three members and guests attended the meeting.

The Thirty-fourth Annual General Meeting was held at the Gymkhana Club in Bombay, on June 1st, 1962, at which the President took the chair.

The following Office-bearers of the Club were elected: -

Officers

President ... ... Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams,

K.B.E., CB.

Vice-Presidents ... T. H. Braham, Esq.

Brig. Gyan Singh

Honorary Treasurer ... B. W. Ritchie, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries

Delhi Col. M. Valladares

Darjeeling M. J. Cheney, Esq.

Bombay R. E. Hawkins, Esq.

Simla Hills R. E. Hotz, Esq.

Dehra Dun Gurdial Singh, Esq.

Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin

Great Britain V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E,

Kathmandu Lt.-Col. C. G. Wylie

Members of Committee

Dr. K. Biswas, M.A., D.Sc., F.R.S.E., F.N.I., F.A.S., F.B.S.

C. E. J. Crawford, Esq. A. Kauffman, Esq.

R. E. Hawkins, Esq. R. Lawford, Esq.

M. Hruska, Esq. Gurdial Singh, Esq.

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.

A. R. Leyden, Esq.

J. N. Mathur, Esq.

A. Madgavkar, Esq.

Other Appointments

Honorary Editor .., ... Dr. K. Biswas, D.Sc.

Honorary Librarian ... R. Lawford, Esq.

Honorary Equipment Officer ... M. Hruska, Esq.

The meeting was attended by sixteen local members as well as by General Williams from Roorkee and by the Honorary Treasurer. Mr. B. W. Ritchie, from Calcutta. All previous annual general meetings have been held in Calcutta, where the registered office of the Club is situated and where the Honorary Secretary and Treasurer reside. As the Club's membership is scattered over the five continents as well as many parts of India, it is not practicable to set up any pattern for varying the venue of meetings so that every member can have the chance to attend, but it is hoped that the experiment will be repeated. It is evident that members outside Calcutta appreciate the opportunity of attending general meetings of the Club.

After the meeting Mr. H. V. R. Iengar showed slides of his visit to Kangchenjhau in 1960.

MEETINGS : Apart from the Annual General Meetings, the following gatherings took place: -

Calcutta : An evening function was held in February, 1961,. when Mr. John Harrison, who was on his way through Calcutta to join Sir Edmund Hillary's expedition, gave an illustrated lecture on the 1957 New Zealand Antarctic Expedition.

Bombay: Brigadier Gyan Singh showed the film of the first Indian Everest Expedition to local members of the Club and to the members of the Mountaineering Committee on September 4th, 1961.

On July 25th, 1962, the Alliance Francaise invited local members of the Club to see the film of the 1959 Expedition to Jannu, entitled Mont Jannu.

MEMBERSHIP: The Club's membership at present stands at 603, of whom 180 members are resident in India, Pakistan and Nepal. The names of 29 Founder Members stand in the Current Members" Register, and severfHonorary Members.

OBITUARY : We mourn the deaths of the following members:

W. Bischof (1951).

Major L. W. Bird, D.S.O., O.B.E. (1936).

Cdr. R. A. Kilroy (L. 1946).

R. P. Mears (L. 1928).

W. A. Moore, M.B.E. (L.F. 1928). P. L. Pierce (1956).

H. Ruttledge (L.F. 1928, O.M.C. 1927).

As we are going to press we learn with deep regret the death of Mr. Wilfrid Noyce while climbing with Sir John Hunt's British- Soviet Expedition to the Pamirs. He and Robin Smith fell in a deep crevasse.

Also as a further blow to mountaineering we learn of the death of Major E. J. E. Mills while climbing Kunyang Chish. He and Capt. M. R. S. Jones were killed by an avalanche.

LIBRARY : While the library has become well established at the Geological Survey of India building in Calcutta, a catalogue of books has not yet been prepared. The Committee in Calcutta have been somewhat short-handed recently but it is hoped that the work will be completed fairly soon.

EXPEDITIONS, 1961: A brief summary of the expeditions are given below. Most of them have been fully reported elsewhere in the Journal.
NEPAL

A British Expedition led by J. Walmsley which made the first ascent of Nuptse, 25,850 feet.

An Indian Services Expedition led by Lt. M. S. Kohli, which made the first ascent of Annapurna III, 24,858 feet.

An International Expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary made the first ascent of Ama Dablam, 22,494 feet, and Puma Dablam, c. 21,000 feet. An attempt was made on Makalu, 27,790 feet, reaching 27,400 feet.

A British Expedition led by J. B. Tyson climbed Matathumba in the Sisne Himal.

A British Army Expedition led by Capt, J. S. Keen climbed in the Mingbo Valley.

A Japanese Expedition led by T. Marimoto attempted 'Big White Peak ', 23,240 feet, reaching 23,120 feet (Jugal Himal).

A Japanese Expedition led by K. Marimoto Attempted Langtang Lirung, 23,750 feet. At about 20,000 feet an avalanche killed the leader, K. Oshima, and Sherpa Gyaltsen Norbu.

A Third Japanese Expedition attempted Manaslu II (Peak 29) but failed to reach the summit.

A German Survey Expedition led by Herr Schneider visited the Hongu Khola area.

KARAKORAM

An Austrian Expedition led by E. Waschak made the first ascent of Mount Ghent, 24,280 feet. They also climbed Silver Throne, 22,640 feet.

The Royal Air Force Expedition to the Aling Glacier was led by Gr. Capt. A. J. M. Smyth. Four peaks were climbed to over 21,000 feet. Reconnoitred K6 from S.W. reaching about 20,000 feet.

A German Expedition led by Dr. K. M. Herrligkoffer attempted Nanga Parbat, 26,660 feet, by the Diamir Face, reaching 23,458 feet.

A small American Expedition led by F. K. Knauth attempted Paiju, 21,500 feet.

A Cambridge University Expedition led by W. P. Gamble undertook survey work on the Minapin Glacier.

GARHWAL

An Indian Expedition led by N. Kumar made the first ascent of Nilkantha, 21,640 feet.

An Indian Expedition led by Gurdial Singh attempted Nanda Devi, 25,645 feet, and reached 22,000 feet. They also climbed Devistan, 22,000 feet, and Maiktoli, 22,320 feet.

An Indian Expedition led by P. Chaudhuri climbed Nanda Kot, 22,510 feet.

An Indian Expedition led by B. Biswas attempted Mana, 23,862 feet.

An Indian Expedition led by J. Nanavati attempted Nilgiri Parbat, 21,400 feet, reaching 19,500 feet.

PUNJAB

The Derbyshire Expedition led by R. Pettigrew climbed White Sail, 21,148 feet, and Deo Tibba, 19,687 feet. Their attempt on Indrasan, 20,410 feet, failed 800 feet short.

A small expedition led by J. P. O'F. Lynam visited the Bara Shigri Glacier and climbed Peak 21,710 feet.

An Italian Expedition climbed Peak 20,830 feet in the Pir Panjal (Dibibokri Basin).

Two members of the Pinnacle Club's 1962 Nepal Expedition, Barbara Spark and Josephine Scarr, visited the Bara Shigri and climbed Central Peak, 20,600 feet, and Lion, 20,000 feet. They also attempted Peak 20,495 feet.

SIKKIM

An Indian party led by S. Gyatso climbed Kangchenjau, 22,603 feet. They also made first ascents of Chombu, 20,872 feet, and Yul- hekhang, 21,090 feet.

HINDU KUSH

An Italian Expedition led by Prof. A. Desio visited the Koh-i- Baba Range.

A German Expedition led by K. Brenner climbed 14 peaks in the Baba-i-Dewana range. The highest being Shahkh-i-Kabud, 20,013 feet.

Two small parties led by Major E. J. E. Mills visited Swat Kohis- tan and climbed Khan Shai, c. 18,700 feet.

A small party led by W. Bartlett attempted Falak Sar in Swat Kohistan.

EXPEDITIONS, 1962: Recorded below are brief notes on this year's expeditions.

NEPAL

An Indian Expedition led by J. Dias attempted Everest, 29,028 feet. They got within a few hundred feet of the summit.

A French Expedition led by L. Terray made the first ascent of Jannu, 25,294 feet. Eight members and a Sherpa reached the summit on April 27th.

A German /Swiss Expedition led by G. Lenser made the first ascent of Pumori, 23,442 feet.

There have been four Japanese Expeditions:

1. Led by S. Nakano, made the first ascent of Chamlang Peak, 24,012 feet.

2. Led by Prof. N. Sasuke, made the first ascent of Nupchu, 23,058 feet.

3. Led by A. Takahashi, made the first ascent of 6 Big White Peak 23,240 feet, in the Jugal Himal.

4. Led by S. Ishizaka, climbed Hangde (c. 22,000 feet) in the Mukut Himal.

An American Expedition led by Prof. Woodrow W. Sayre attempted Gyachungkang, 25,910 feet.

A British Ladies' Expedition led by Countess Gravina abandoned their attempt on a 22,532 feet peak in the Jagdula Khola and instead made the first ascent of an unclimbed peak in the Kanjiroba Himal of about 21,000 feet.

A British Museum Scientific Expedition led by Dr. Ingles spent the winter 1961 /1962 in the Taplejung Area of Eastern Nepal.

A British Botanical Expedition led by Viscount Glentworth visited the Trisuli and Langtang Valleys and also did some climbing.

A German/Swiss Expedition led by Herr Scheider visited the Rolwaling Himal.

A small Nepalese party climbed Tashi Lapcha, 21,000 feet. Later this year J. O. M. Roberts is attempting Dhaula IV, 25,064 feet.

KARAKORAM

A German Expedition led by K. M. Herrligkoffer climbed Nanga Parbat, 26,620 feet.

A British/Pakistan Services Expedition led by Major E. J. E. Mills attempted Kunyang C'hish, 25,762 feet. The leader and M. R. S. Jones were unfortunately killed during the attempt.

A Japanese Expedition is attempting Saltoro Kanjri.

Professor Desio is on a Scientific Expedition to the Hunza area.

PUNJAB

An Indian Army Mountaineering Association team attempted Leo Pargial, 22,210 feet. Unfortunately two climbers and a Sherpa were killed during the attempt.

SIKKIM

An Indian Army Expedition led by Major K. S, Rana climbed Koktang, 20,990 feet.

HINDU KUSH

A German climber, Herr Staininberger, attempted Tirich Mir, 25,260 feet, reaching 21,500 feet.

A small party led by F. K. Knauth is attempting Tirich Mir.

FUTURE EXPEDITIONS:

1963: An American Expedition is planning to attempt Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. N. Dyhrenfurth is the leader.

Sir Edmund Hillary plans to lead an expedition lo

Nepal and attempt Taweche, 25,500 feet. An expedition from Australia plans lo visit the Punjab Himal.

1964: The Germans plan to attempt Everest

HIMALAYAN JOURNAL, VOL. XXIV: All papers intended" for publication should be forwarded to the Hon. Editor, c/o The Himalayan Club, Post Box No. 9049, Calcutta 16. It is requested that articles should be typewritten, and preferably accompanied by sketch-maps ; these should be clearly drawn in Indian ink with references given, if possible, to the existing Survey sheets. Photographs should be clear, with definition as sharp as possible ; they should be at least half-plate size printed on glossy paper. The Editor will be glad to receive articles of general Himalayan interest and also on subjects other than climbing.

JOURNAL BACK NUMBERS: The only volumes .now available for sale are Vols. XVII, XIX, XX, XXI and XXII which are priced at Rs.10 per copy, post free for members, and applies to one copy per member. In some cases additional copies can be made available at Rs.14 per copy, post free.

DESPATCH OF THE JOURNAL: Responsibility for nondelivery of the Journal cannot be accepted if members do not notify their change of address. Considerable trouble is caused in readdressing Journals returned, and duplicate copies cannot be sent except on payment.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS : Members are requested to notify the Hon. Secretary promptly of any change of address. If this Journal has not been correctly addressed, will you please advise the Hon. Secretary immediately of the amendments or alterations.

TIGER BADGES: The following Tiger Badges have been awarded and will shortly be presented to the recipients:

Mingma Tsering, H.C. No. 340, for Makalu, 1961.

Memba Tensing, H.C. No. 341, for Makalu, 1961.

Nima Dorje, H.C. No. 345, for Makalu, 1961.

LONDON REUNION : We would like to remind members that Mr. V. S. Risoe is planning a London Reunion next year. The date has been set for Friday, March 29th, 1963.

LOST MEMBERS : The Club is still endeavouring to trace a few Life Members with whom they have lost contact. Any information as to their whereabouts will be greatly received by the Honorary Secretary.
  1. Amsden, Esq.
Col. G. Davidson.

Capt. C. G. Funnell.

Miss P. M. Home.

Col. I. H. Lyall Grant.

Mrs. R. T. Merrick.
  1. H. Pitt, Esq.
Mrs. P. F. Scott.

Ft.-Lt. W. M. Starr.

JOURNAL INDEX: Members will be pleased to note that Mr. D. F. O. Dangar has compiled an index for the Himalayan Journal covering Vols. I to XXI. Mr. V. S. Risoe is looking after the publication. The Journal Index was ready by August/September this year. Would members please note that it is not being sent automatically. It will, however, be despatched free of charge, and requests should he sent to the Honorary Secretary. If you would like a copy, would you please write as soon as possible so that the work of despatching can be simplified.

JOURNALS RECEIVED: We gratefully acknowledge receipt during the year of the following journals and publications in exchange of our Journal:

The Alpine Journal.

The Geographical Journal.

Journal of the Royal Central Asian Society.

The British Ski Year Book.

Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Journal.

The Rucksack Club Journal.

Cambridge Mountaineering.

The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.

Mountaincraft.

The American Alpine Journal.

The New Zealand Alpine Journal.

The Journal of the Mountain Club of South Africa.

Appalachian Club Bulletins.

La Montague et Alpinisme.

Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpenvereins.

Journal of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.

Japanese Alpine Club Journal.

Journal of the United Services Institution, India.

The Italian Alpine Club.

The Norwegian Climbing Club (Norsk Tindeklab).

The Canadian Alpine Club.

The Argentina Mountain Club.

Austrian Alpine Club.

The Climbers' Club.

The Fell and Rock Club.

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.

Mazamas.

Pinnacle Club.