Himalayan Journal vol.22
The Himalayan Journal
Vol.22

Publication year:
1960

Editor:
Dr K. Biswas
Index
  1. EDITORIAL
  2. INDIANS ON MOUNT EVEREST, 1960
    (BRIGADIER GYAN SINGH)
  3. AMA DABLAM, 1959
    (J. H. EMLYN JONES)
  4. ANNAPURNA II, 1960
    (Lt.-Col. J. O. M. ROBERTS)
  5. DHAUL AGIRI, 1959
    ( DHAUL AGIRI, 1959)
  6. DHAULAGIRI, THE 'WHITE MOUNTAIN': A CHRONICLE OF THE 1960 EXPEDITION
    (KURT DIEMBERGER)
  7. THE ASCENT OF MASHERBRIJM
    (THOMAS F. HORNBEIN, M.D.)
  8. YUGOSLAV EXPEDITION TO TRISUL GROUP, 1960
    (A. KUNAVER)
  9. SIKKIM, 1960
    (H. V. R. IENGAR)
  10. ACROSS THE INNER LINE
    (ANNE DAVIES)
  11. SURVEY OF KASHMIR AND JAMMU, 1855 TO 1865
    (COLONEL R. H. PHILLIMORE, C.I.E., D.S.O.)
  12. WANDERING IN THE HIMALAYAS
    (FUKATA KYUYA)
  13. A SMALL EXPEDITION TO GANESH HIMAL
    (P. J. WALLACE)
  14. NORTH-EAST OF POKHARA
    (GORDON JONES)
  15. DISTEGHIL S AR, 1960
    (GUNTHER STARKER)
  16. THE ASCENT OF TRIVOR
    (WILFRID NOYCE)
  17. HIMALAYAN SCIENTIFIC AND MOUNTAINEERŽING EXPEDITION, 1960-61
    (NORMAN HARDIE)
  18. A HIGH WALK IN THE CENTRAL HIMALAYA
    (A. D. MODDIE)
  19. ASCENT OF NOSHAQ
    (DR. YAJIRO SAKATO)
  20. OBITUARY
  21. REVIEWS
  22. CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1959-60

CLUB PROCEEDINGS, 1959-60

The Thirty-first Annual General Meeting of the Club was held at the Great Eastern Hotel, Calcutta, on Monday, June 29, 1959. Mr. T. H. Braham took the chair, and reported on the Club's activities during the year.

Officers, Elective Members of Committee and Additional Members of the Balloting Committee were elected as follows:

Officers

President R. E. Hotz, Esq

V. S. Risoe, Esq. M.B.E.

Vice-Presidents T. H. Braham, Esq.

Honorary Treasurer F. E. Whitehead, Esq

Honorary Secretary J. L. Peirce, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries


Delhi L. J. Johnston, Esq.

Darjeeling M. J. Cheney, Esq.

Bombay R. E. Hawkins, Esq.

Kulu H. M. Banon, Esq.

Dehra Dun Gurdial Singh, Esq.

Karachi W. A. Brown, Esq.

Great Britain V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E.

Honorary Editor

T. H. Braham, Esq.

Members of Committee

C. E. J. Crawford, Esq. M. Hruska, Esq.

F. C. Badhwar, Esq. Col. Gyan Singh

A. B. Marshall, Esq. R. Lawford, Esq.

Gurdial Singh, Esq. H. V. R. Iengar, Esq.

Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams, K.B.E., C.B.

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.

A. R. Leyden, Esq.

J. N. Mathur, Esq.


Other Appointments

Honorary Librarian A. B. Marshall, Esq.

Honorary Equipment Officer M. Hruska, Esq.

The Thirty-second Annual General Meeting was also held at the Great Eastern Hotel, Calcutta, on Sunday, October 23, 1960, at which Mr. C. E. J. Crawford took the chair. The following Office-bearers of the Club were elected:-

Officers

President Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams, K.B.E., C.B

Vice-Presidents T. H. Braham, Esq.

F. C. Badhwar, Esq., O.B.E.

Honorary Treasurer B. W. Ritchie, Esq.

Honorary Secretary J. L. Peirce, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries


Delhi L. J. Johnston, Esq.

Darjeeling M. J. Cheney, Esq.

Bombay R. E. Hawkins, Esq.

Kulu H. M. Banon, Esq.

Dehra Dun Gurdial Singh, Esq.

Pakistan Col. E. Goodwin

Great Britain V. S. Risoe, Esq., M.B.E.

Members of Committee


Dr. K. Biswas, M.A., D.Sc. A. Kauffman, Esq.

(Edin.), F.R.S.E., F.N.I., R. Lawford, Esq.

F.A.S., F.B.S. K. Patterson, Esq.

C. E. J. Crawford, Esq. Gurdial Singh, Esq.

R. E. Hawkins, Esq. Brig. Gyan Singh

M. Hruska, Esq. Maj. E. J. Somerset, I.M.S.

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

J. T. M. Gibson, Esq.

A. R. Leyden, Esq.

J. N. Mathur, Esq.

Other Appointments

Honorary Equipment Officer .. M. Hruska, Esq.

The meeting was followed by an account illustrated by slides of the Indian Mount Everest Expedition, 1960, given by its leader, Brigadier Gyan Singh.

EXTRAORDINARY GENERAL MEETING: On September 24, 1959, an Extraordinary General Meeting was held at 34 Chow- ringhee, Calcutta, at which an amendment to Rule 10, regarding subscriptions, was passed as follows:-

'Without prejudice to the powers of the Managing Committee hereinafter defined, the entrance fee and subscription payable by a member as from January 1, 1960, shall be as follows:--

Resident Overseas

Members Members

Rs. Rs.

Entrance Fee .. .. 30 30

Annual Subscription .. .. 35 20

Life Subscription .. .. 300 200

The Managing Committee shall have power at any time to vary the subscription payable by any class of member by an amount or amounts not exceeding one half of the subscription herein stated, and to make rules for the payment of a subscription of an Overseas Member in a currency other than Indian Rupees.

Patrons and Honorary Members shall be exempt from the payment of any subscription.'

MEMBERSHIP: The Club's membership at present stands at 565, of whom 137 members are resident in India. The names of 31 Founder Members stand in the Current Members' Register, and one Honorary Member, Sri Tenzing Norgay, G.M.

OBITUARY: We mourn the deaths of the following members:-

Sir Bhagat Chandra, K.C.S.I. (L. F. 1928) H. C. W. Bishop (L. 1934) J. M. Sweet (1952)

J. M. Bottomley, C.I.E. (1929. O.M.C. 1927) P. Ghiglione (L. 1939)

Lt.-Col. J. W. Rundall (F. 1928, O.M.C. 1927) R. Kappeler (1948) J. Reid (L. 1928)

MEETINGS, 1959-60: Apart from the Annual General Meetings the following section gatherings took place:-

Calcutta: On April 3, 1959, by courtesy of the Alliance Frangaise, the film of the 1950 French expedition to Annapurna was shown.

On June 12, 1959, on the occasion of the return of the French Jannu expedition, M. Jean Franco showed films of the 1954 Makalu reconnaissance and the 1955 ascent of Makalu.

On November 22, 1960, Mr. A. Kauffman gave an illustrated talk on the American Gasherbrum expedition.

Mr. Norman Hardie described the mountains of New- Zealand with accompanying slides on December 3, 1960.

Delhi: The Delhi Section held its Annual Meeting on December 19, 1959, with an exhibition of paintings and photographs. Capt. Jagjit Singh addressed members.

Bombay: In January, 1960, a Club Meet was held for a scramble on Parsit Hill about 23 miles from Bombay.

In May Mr. K. V. Naoroji showed colour slides of his visit to Sikkim in 1958.

Darjeeling: In December, 1960, the President of the Club, Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams, visited Darjeeling. A dinner was held on December 15 at which the funds in the Sherpa Trust Fund were handed over to the Sherpa Climbers' Association. Previously in the day, Tiger Badges were presented on the occasion of a passing-out parade of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.

LIBRARY: As reported in the last Journal arrangements have been made for the Club's library to be housed by the Geological Survey of India at their headquarters, 29 Chowringhee Road, Calcutta. An easily accessible area has been made available for the Club's books and journals. All the journals have been catalogued and it is hoped to issue a library list of the journals during the course of the year 1961. Cataloguing of the books is nearly complete. The library was open to members in early February, 1961, and library passes may be obtained from the Hon. Librarian.

EXPEDITIONS, 1959-60: Space precludes more than a brief list of the many expeditions that have taken place. Most of them are more fully reported on in Newsletters or the Journal.

1959: French expedition led by M. Jean Franco to Jannu.

British expedition led by Mr. J. H. Emlyn Jones to Am a Dablam.
Austrian expedition led by Mr. F. Moravec to Dhaulagiri. Japanese expedition led by Mr. J. Muraki to Himalchull Ladies' expedition to Cho Oyu led by Madame Claude Kogan.

The ascent of Nanda Kot by the Indian Naval party led by Lt. M. S. Kohli.

Gunner's expedition led by Capt. Jagjit Singh to Bandra- punch.

Italian ascent of Kanjut Sar led by Signor Guido Mon- zino.

British expedition to the Batura Glacier.

Swiss expedition to Disteghil Sar led by M. Raymond Lambert.

Indian Air Force team's ascent of Chowkhamba led by Air Commodore S. N. Goyal.

Japanese Kyoto expedition to Dhaulagiri II.

Japanese expedition led by Mr. Hidaki Kato to Gauri- shankar.

1960: Indian Mount Everest expedition led by Brigadier Gyan Singh.

Dr. Max Eiselin's Swiss expedition to Dhaulagiri.

Ascent of Annapurna II by Col. J. O. M. Roberts' British Services expedition.

University of Kyoto's expedition to Api, leader Mr. Y. Tsuda.

Ascent of Himalchuli by Mr. J. Yamado's Keoi University expedition.

P. J. Wallace's climb of Ganesh Himal.

French expedition to Chobutse led by Mr. Robert Sandoz.

The Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering expedition to Nepal led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Yugoslav ascent of Trisul II and III.

Mr. Gurdial Singh's attempt on Devistan I.

Japanese Ladies' expedition in the Punjab Himalayas.

Calcutta University's expedition to Gangstang.

The ascent of Nandaghunti by a six-member team from Calcutta.

Attempt on K2 by an American-German expedition led by Major William Hackett.

Dr. George Bell's American-Pakistani ascent of Masherbrum.

The Austrian ascent of Disteghil Sar led by Mr.

Wolfgang Stefan.

British-American ascent of Trivor.

HIMALAYAN JOURNAL, VOL. XXIII: All papers intended for publication should be forwarded to the Hon. Editor, c/o The Himalayan Club, Post Box No. 9049, Calcutta 16. It is requested that articles should be typewritten, and preferably accompanied by sketch maps; these should be clearly drawn in Indian ink with references given, if possible, to the existing Survey sheets. Photographs should be clear, with definition as sharp as possible; they should be at least half-plate size printed on glossy paper. The Editor will be glad to receive articles of general Himalayan interest and also on subjects other than climbing.

JOURNAL BACK NUMBERS: The only volumes now available for sale are Vols. XVII, XIX, XX and XXI which are priced at Rs.10/- per copy, post free, for members and applies to one copy per member. In some cases additional copies can be made available at Rs.14/- per copy, post free.

DESPATCH OF THE JOURNAL: Responsibility for nondelivery of the Journal cannot be accepted if members do not notify their change of address. Considerable trouble is caused in re-addressing Journals returned, and duplicate copies cannot be sent except on payment.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS: Members are requested to notify the Hon. Secretary promptly of any change of address. If this Journal has not been correctly addressed, will you please advise the Hon. Secretary immediately of the amendments or alterations.

TIGER BADGES: The following Tiger Badges have been awarded and presented to the recipients:

Sardar Wangdi, for Jannu, 1959, presented on April 23, 1961.

Da Norbu H. C. No. 161, for Jannu, 1959, presented on January 15, 1961.

Sonam Girimey, for Everest, 1960, presented on December 15, 1960.

Ang Norbu, for Everest, 1960, presented on March 27, 1961.

Da Norbu H. C. No. 193, for Everest, 1960, presented on December 15, 1960.

Pemba Sundar H. C. No. 182, for Everest, 1960, presented on March 29, 1961.

SHERPA TRUST FUND: On December 14, 1960, the Trustees of the Sherpa Trust Fund had their final meeting before handing over the fund to the Sherpa Climbers' Association.

At the Himalayan Club Dinner held in Darjeeling on December 15, the President of the Club, Lt.-Gen. Sir Harold Williams, had the pleasure of presenting a cheque for Rs. 13,704/- to Sri Tenzing Norgay, G.M., Chairman of the new Board of Trustees set up by the Sherpa Climbers' Association to administer the fund in future.

The new Trustees are:-

Sri Tenzing Norgay, G.M.

E. D. Avari, Esq.

Brig. Gyan Singh

M. J. Cheney, Esq.

LONDON REUNION: A very enjoyable reunion of Club Members was held in London on Friday, March 10, 1961, at the Oriental Club. This was the first occasion of this sort since before the war, and was inspired and organized by T. H. Braham and V. S. Risoe.

More than 60 members and guests were present including two Founder Members (Mr. Arthur Moore and Mr. E. O. Shebbeare), three past Presidents and other past members of the Club Committee, and two original members of the Mountain Club of India.

Memories of the Himalayas were revived by the showing of two short films of the Darjeeling Himalaya Railway and of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. The success of the meeting can be gauged by the unanimous view that the reunion should be held again in the not too distant future.

LOST MEMBERS: The Club has lost contact with the following Life Members, covers forwarded to their last known address having been returned undelivered. Any information as to their present whereabouts will be gratefully received by the Hon. Secretary:-

B. Amsden Lt.-Col. E. Huerta

A. A. Bertram I. L. Hall

Brig.-Gen. Sir George Cockerill, Kt., J. Kelly

C.B. (F.) C.H.Pitt

Lt.-Col. W. F. Clive Mrs. P. F. Scott

Col. G. Davidson F/Lt. W. M. Starr

E. H. Ford Dr. H. de Terra

Capt. G. G.'Funnell, R.E. T. Weir

JOURNALS RECEIVED : We gratefully acknowledge during the year of the following journals and publication change of our Journal:

The Alpine Journal.

The Geographical Journal.

Journal of the Royal Central Asian Society.

The British Ski Year Book.

Yorkshire Ramblers Club Journal.

The Rucksack Club Journal.

Cambridge Mountaineering.

The Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.

Mountaincraft.

The American Alpine Journal.

The New Zealand Alpine Journal.

The Journal of the Mountain Club of South Afric

Appalachian Club Bulletins.

La Montague et Alpinisme.

Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpenvereins.

Journal of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Resea

Japanese Alpine Club Journal.

Journal of the United Services Institution, India.

The Italian Alpine Club.

The Norwegian Climbing Club (Norsk Tindeklab).

Printed bv Norman A. E^llis at the Baptist Mission Press, 41 a Acharvya Jagadish

Calcutta.