List compiled September 1950
Of the 175 porters mentioned 51 have died and 24 were killed in the mountains. Twenty-nine, still fit for mountaineering, are at present available in Darjeeling.
This list does not include the names of the young porters now working on small treks in Sikkim, who have no high altitude experience. Nor does it include the names of the seven porters killed on the slopes of the North col on Everest in 1922. Their names were not given in the official report.
[As we go to press information has come in of the names of the seven porters killed on Eve rest in 1922. They are inscribed, alongside those of Kellas, Mallory, and Irvine, on the Memorial Cairn at the Base Camp. Their full names -111(1 numbers have not yet been ascertained.—Ed.]
Abbreviations
Annap .... . . . | Annapurna |
Ev ........ | Everest |
Garh ....... | Garhwal |
Kanch ....... | Kangchenjunga |
KK ........ | Karakoram |
N.P............................................ | Nanga Parbat |
Rakap ....... | Rakaposhi |
Sik ........ | Sikkim |
Himalayan CI. No. | Name | Date of birth | Expeditions | Remarks |
---|---|---|---|---|
61* | Aila Sherpa | 1913 | 36: Ev. 37: Shaksgam. 38: Gangotri (Austr). 39: Sik (Grob). 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Annapurna. | One of the best Sherpas available at present. Tiger's Badge. |
10* | Ajeeba | 1911 | 33: Ev. 35: Kabru. 36: Ev. 37: Sik (Grob). 38: Rakap. 39: Sik (Grob). 47: Gangotri. 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Annap. 50/51: KK (Marsh). | Very experienced. One of the best Sherpas now available. |
43 | Ang Babu | I9I5 | 30: Kanch. 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. 39: La- houl (Krenek). | Good only for minor expeditions. |
40 | Ang Dawa I (Thamay) | .. | 36: Ev. 37: Sik (Grob). 38: Ev. 39: Garh (Roch). 47: Garh (Roch). | Now at Sola Khumbu. |
41 | Ang Dawa II | 1915 | 36: Ev. 47: Rakap. 50: Garh (Dittert). | Still going strong. Reliable sirdar and excellent cook. |
42 | Ang Dawa III (Luckla) | .. | 36: Ev. 38: Gangotri. | Now at Sola Khumbu. |
I52 | Ang Dawa IV (Chota) | 1928 | 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Annap. 50: Garh (Dittert). | Promising young porter. |
.. D.116 |
Ang Dawa V Ang Karma | 1929 1913 | 49: Pyramid Pk. 36: Ev. 38: Ev. 42: Lama Amden. 43: Bandarpunch. | Did quite well. Died during the war. |
I | Ang Nima | 1907 | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 34: Sik (Gourley). 36: Simvu. 36: Fluted Pk. 39: Lahoul. 49: Pyramid Pk. | Willing, but slow to grasp things. |
.. | Ang Nurbu | .. | 47: Garh (Roch). | Now at Sola Khumbu. |
D. 24 | Ang Pasang | 1912 | 33: Ev. 34: Sik (Gourley) . 36: Tibet (Mar- tvn). | Died in 1943. |
D .. | Ang Pemba | 38: Ka. | Died in 1942. | |
103 | Ang Phuri | 36: KK (French). | ? | |
D. 44 | Ang Phurwa | 36: Ev. | Died in 1937. | |
89 | Ang Yemba 11 | 36: KK (French). | Too old now. | |
I55 | Ang Temba III | 1932 | 49: Pyramid Pk. 50/51: KK (Marsh). | Did well in 1949. |
D .. | Ang Tenzing I | 1908 | 24: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: Garh f Auden). ............. - | Died in 1936. |
3 | Ang Tenzing II | 191-2 | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. 37: Shaksgam. 38: Gangotri (Aust) 46: Nun Kun. | Died in 1949 whilst on tour with Wood in Lho- nak. Malaria. Tiger's Badge. |
.. | Ang Tenzing III | 1922 | 47: Rakap. | Now at Sola Khumbu. |
13 | Ang Thari | 1915 | 35: Kabru. 36: Ev. | Now at Sola Khumbu. |
19* | Ang Tharkay | I909 , | 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: Nanda Devi. 36: Ev. 36: Garh(Osmaston). 37: Shaksgam. 38: Ev. 39: KK (Shipton). 45: Pauhunri. 49: Kanchenjau. 50: Annapurna. | Very likely the best and most experienced Sher pa, now working. Highly praised Tiger's badge. |
36 | Ang Tsering I | 1910 | 24: Ev. 30: Kanch. 31: Kamet. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 36: Ev. 39: Lahoul (Krenek). | German order of the Red Cross (Nanga Parbat, 34). Works as sirdar on treks below snow-line. |
15 | Ang Tsering II | 1909 | 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 35: Kabru. 36: Ev. 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
51 | Ang Tsering III ('Pansy') | 1907 | 36: Ev. 37: Garh (Gardiner) . 38: Sik (Grob). 39: Sik (Grob). 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Annap. 50: Nepal (Madgavkar). | Rather old now but still going strong. Tiger's Badge. |
101 | Ang Tsering IV | 1915 | 36: KK (French). 47: Garh (Roch). 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Nepal (Madgavkar). | In 1949 employed as Post Runner only. |
16 | Champa Lama | 1913 | 34: Tibet (Bell). 35: Sik (Twynam). | Left Darjeeling 1937, returned 1949. Excellent cook and sirdar, inexperienced climber. |
+ .. + |
Chettan | .. | 22: Ev. 24: Ev. 26: Kumaon (Rutt- ledge). 27: Garh (Ruttledge). 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. | In his time one 01 the most famous of the Tigers. Killed in avalanche on Kanch. |
104 | Chong Karma | 36: KK (French). 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat. | |
100 | Chung Tsering | 36: KK (French). | ? | |
76 | Chung Chung | 1900 | 33: Ev. 36: Ev. | Now cook in Alubari monastery. |
92 + ..+ |
Chumbi Dakschi | .. .. |
30: KK (French) 33: Ev. 34: N.P. |
Died on Nanga Parbat. |
D. 33 | Da Namgyal | 1895 | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. | Died 1938. |
157 | Da Namgyal II | 1925 | 49: Nepal (Tilman). 50: Nepal (Til- man'). | New man, no reports received so far. |
.. | Da Nurbu | 1925 | 50: Nepal (Madgavkar). | New man. |
D.105 | Da Tenzing | .. | 36: KK (French). | Died 1939 . |
49* | Dawa Thondup | 1907 | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: K.36. 35: Garh (Auden). 36: Ev. 37: Sik (Gook). 38: Masherbrum. 39: K.2. 47: Gangotri (Roch). 50: Annap. 50: Garh (Dittert). 45: Ghomo Yummo. 43: Bandarpunch. | Though rather old is still really excellent. He reached the summit of Abi Gamin in 1950. Order of Ger- man Red Cross. Tiger's Badge. |
D. 53 | Dawa Tsering Bhutia |
1916 | 36:KK (French). | Died 1946. Him. Journal, 1940, p. j141, states No. 53 received Tiger's Badge, an error: Dawa Tsering Sherpa received it. |
D. .. | Dawa Tsering Sherpa | .. | 33: Ev. 36: Ev. 38: Ev. | Died in 1939. Tiger's Badge. |
113 | Dhunbir Lepcha | .. | 36:K.K (French). | ? |
122 | Dongri | .. | 36: Ev. | ? |
55 | Dorji Mistri | .. | 36: Ev. | Works now as Mistri at Kalimpong. |
D. 14 D. 91 |
Dupha Genden Umdu |
1909 | 21: Ev. 22: Ev. 36: KK (French). 39: Sik (Grob). | Died 1935 Died in 1943. |
+ • • + |
Geyley | .. | 22: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died on Nanga Parbat 1934. |
84 | Girmey Chakki Bhutia | .. | 36: Ev. | Too old now. |
59 | Gna Temba | .. | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. |
118 | Gombu | .. | 36: Ev. 39: Garh (Roch). | Killed in avalanche on Chau- kamba 1939. |
56 | Gyalgen I Khumiung | .. | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. |
57* | Gyalgen II Mikchen | 1915 | 36: Ev. 38: Ev. 39: KK (Shipton). 46: Nun Kun. 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Nepal (Tilman). | Excellent sirdar. Highly praised. |
58+ | Gyalgen III Monjo | .. | 36: Ev. 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
115 | Gyalgen IV | .. | ? | Now doing business at Darjeel- ing. |
125 | Gyalgen V (Bhutia) | .. | 36: Ev. | Working m Sikkim. |
145 | Gyalgen VI Gyalgen VII | 1918 1931 |
38: Ev. 49: Pyramid Pk. 49: Panch Chuli. 50: Garh (Ch-Thomas). |
Gone to Yarkand. Very young. Promising. |
.. | Gyalgen VIII | 1930 | 50: Nepal (Madgav- kar). | New man. |
D. 142 | Hawang Sherpa | 1909 | 37: Sik (Hunt). | Died 1941. |
D. 111 | Hishey Bhutia | .. | 37: KK (Hunt). | Died 1941. |
159 | Ila Namgyal | 1923 | 45: Sik (Tilley). | Not much experience. |
18 | Ila Kitar | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. | Now at Sola Khumbu. | |
D. 85 | Ila Tenzing | 1916 | 36: Ev. | Died, date uncertain. |
D. 97 | Injung Bhutia | 1911 | 36: KK (French). | Died, date uncertain. |
D. 22 | Jayung Nakpa | 1904 | 29: Kanch. 36: Ev. | Died 1941. |
23+ | Jigmi | .. | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: Ev. 35: Kabru. 36: Ev. 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
52 | Jigmay Tsering | 1911 | 34: N.P. 36: KK (French). | Ten years as cook at Bellevue Hotel, now available again. |
117+ | Karmi | .. | 36: Ev. 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat |
156 | Karsang | 1928 | 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Nepal. | New man. |
83 | Kijaipa | .. | 36: Ev. | ? |
63 | Kirken | .. | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. |
35+ | Kitar | 1905 | 24: Ev. 31: Kamet. 32: Kumaon (Rutt- ledge). 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: Kabru. 36: Gurla M. (Tichy). 36: Nanda Devi. | Died on Nanda Devi in 1936. |
120 | Kitar II | 36: Ev. | ? | |
D.g | Kusang Namgay | 33: Ev. 34: Nanda Devi. 36: Ev. 38: Ev. | Died at Sola Kumbu 1950. Tiger's Badge. | |
20 | Kusang Siter | 1906 | 31: Kamet. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: Ev. | Drowned on returning from Everest 1935. |
126 | Kusang Temba | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. | |
34 | Lhakpa Chedi | 1903 | 24: Ev. 33: Ev. | Now in Calcutta. |
30 | Lhakpa Tenzing | 1915 | 33: Ev. 35: Kabru. 36: KK (French). 37: | Gone to Yarkand. Tiger's Badge. |
D. 46 | Lewa | 1902 | Shaksgam. 38: Ev. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 31: Garnet. 35-37: bet (Kaulback). 38: Kaulback. | Died in 1948. Tiger’ s Badge. |
64 | Lobsang Sherpa | 1903 | 29: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | ? |
_ D. 144 | Lobsang | 1909 | 38: Ev. | Died 1945. Tiger's |
D. 21 | Sherpa II Lobsang Tenzing | 1904 | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Badge. Died 1935. |
132 | Manbahadur Sherpa | 1901 | 36: Sik (Bauer). 37: N.P. 38: Tibet (Slicphc.ird). | Works with P.W.D., Gang- tok. |
D.96 | Mapchi Topgay | 1906 | 36:K K (French). 37: Koluhoi. | Died, date uncertain. |
128 69 |
Mingma Mingma Gyalgen | 1915 | 36: Ev. 36: Ev. |
? Now at Sola Khumbu. |
112 D. 87 |
Mingma Kaprak Mingma Neithen | 1903 | 36: KK (French). 36: KK (French). |
? Died, date un known. |
D. 31 68 |
Mingma Thu Thu ('Alice') Mingma Tsering |
1900 .. |
22: Ev. 24: Ev. 31: Kanch. oik (Osmaston). 39: Kumaon. 47: Raka- poshi. 36: Ev. 37: N.P. |
Disappeared on the Return journey from Srinagar to Darjeeling. Died in the avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
D. 62 | Namgyal | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: | Died 1938. | |
D.5 | Narsang ('Policy') | 1891 | Ev. 36: Ev. 22: Ev. 24: Ev. 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. | Died 1942. |
D. .. | Nima | 1914 | 31: Kanch. 32: Sik (Osmaston). 33: Ev. 36: Ev. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 39: Garh (Koch). | Died, date un known. |
D. | Nima Dorje I | 1903 | 24: Ev. 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kamet. 32: Nanda Devi. 33: Ev. 33: Sik (Gourley). 34: N.P. 34: Sik (Auden). 35: Tibet (Kaulb). | Died on the way back from Gyanste in 1938. |
+ • • + | Nima Dorje II | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died on Nanga Parbat. | |
+ • • + | Nima Nurbu | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died on Nanga Parbat 1934. | |
65 | Nima Sherpa | 1909 | 31: Kamet, 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | ? |
D. .. | Nima Sherpa II | 1912 | 38: N.P. | Died 1942. |
+ .. + | Nima Tashi | •• | 29: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died on Nanga Parbat 1934. |
149 | Nima Tenzing | 1921 | 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Garh (Tichy). | Reliable sirdar. |
D. 67 | Nima Thondup | 1894 | 21: Ev. 22: Ev. 24: Ev. 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: Tibet (Kaulb). | Died in 1949. |
17 | Nima Tsering I | 1908 | 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: KK (French). 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
110 | Nima Tsering II | • • | 36: KK (French). 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937 |
D.129 | Nima Tsering III | 1907 | 36: Nanda Devi. 37: Sik (Grob). 38: Masherbrum. | Died in 1939. |
70 | Nukku | 1910 | 36: Ev. 37: Shaksgam. 38: Ev. 39: Assam (Tilman). | Died of malaria in Bhutan in 1939. |
D. 27 | Nullu | 1894 | 24: Ev. 31: Kamet. 34: N.P. 36: KK (French). |
Died at Sola Khumbu in 1938. |
D. 71 | Nutbu Bhutia | 36: Ev. 37: Garh (Smythe). 38: Ev. | Died 1941. | |
124 | Nurbu II | 36: Ev. | Now in Kurseong. | |
D. .. | Nurbu Sonam | 1912 | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died in 1935. |
Nuri | 1917 | 36 Ev.39:Garh (Roch). | ? | |
Nuri Sikkimi | 44: Trisul (Good- fellow). | ? | ||
81 | Oocheri | 36: Ev. | Now at Sola Khumbu. | |
121 | Ongyal | 36 : Ev. | ? | |
D.7 | Pasang Anju | 1910 | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 32: Sik (Osmaston). 33: Ev. 33: Sik (Gourley). 34: Sik (Auden). 35: Garh (Auden). | Died in 1936. |
D. 86 | Pasang Ckikadi | 1903 | 36: KK (French). 37: Kolahoi. 38: N.P. | Died May 1950. |
+ .. + | Pasang | •• | 31: Kanch. | Killed on Kanck. i93i. |
D. 39 | Pasang Bhutia | 33: Ev. 34: Nanda Devi. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. 38: Ev. | Died in 1948. | |
.. 139* |
PasangDawa Pasang Dawa Lama (or Pasang Sherpa) | 1925 1911 |
50: Nepal (Tilman). 38: Masherbrum. 37: Ghomolhari. 39: K.2.37: Sik (Cook). 49: Pyramid Pk. 50: Garh (Snelsen). 44: Nanda Ghunti. | New man. Reached 24,450 feet on K.2. Able organizer and very good climber. Tiger's Badge. |
D. 28* | Pasang Dorji | 1894 | 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died 1947. |
11 | Pasang Gaken Pasang Kikuli | 1908 1911 | 30: Kanch. 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 36: Nanda Devi. 38: K.2. 39: | 'Too old now. Excellent reports throughout. Died on K.2. in 1939. Tiger's Badge. |
+ • ' + | Pasang Kitar | 39: K.2. | Killed on K.2. 1939. | |
2 | Pasang Lama | 1892 | 24: Ev. 34: N. P. | too old now. |
29 | Pasang Nurbu (Picture) | 1907 | 29: Kanch. 31: Kanch. 34: N.P. 36: Ev. 37: N.P. | Killed in avalanche on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
79 | Pasang Phuttar | 1910 | 29: Kanch. 33: Ev. 35: Sik (Stoddart). 35: Kabru. 36: Nanda Devi. 38: Masherbrum. | No longer fit. Lost 7 fingers on Masherbrum, now has heart trouble. |
D. 127 | Pasang Sherpa | 36: Ev. 38: Gangotri (Austr). | Died, date un- known. | |
D. 78 | Pasang Tsering (Okaraya) | 1906 | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Died in 1936. |
98 | Pasang Urgen | 1908 | 3b: KK (French). 38: Gangotri (Austr). 47: Garh (Roch). | Now working as rickshaw coolie. |
54 | Palden | 1903 | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 35: K.36. 36: Sik (Heim). | Now working at Kurseong. Tiger's Badge. |
D. 146 | Pemba Bhutia | 1910 | 38: N.P. | Died, date unknown. |
D. 147 | Pemba Kitar (Sherpa) | 1915 | 38: K.2. | Died in 1946. |
150 | Pemba Nurbu | 38: Gangotri (Austr). 38: Garh (White). 49: Nepal (Tilman). | Quite satisfactory. | |
D. 90 | Pemba Sherpa | 26: KK (French). | Died, date unknown. | |
72 | Pemba Sundar | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. | |
158 | Penuri | 1928 | 47: Garh (Roch). 49: Pyramid Pk. 49: Panch Chuli (Thomas). 50: Garh (Dittert). | Strong, reliable, and slowly gaining experience. |
45 | Phurba Tashi | 36: Ev. | Business at Lhasa. | |
D. 66 | Phurba Tenzing | 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. q8: Ev. | Died during the war. | |
131 | Phur Temba | 36: Ev. | Gone to Sola Khumbu. | |
I55 | Phu Tharkey | 1922 | 45: Pauhunri. 47: Rakap. 49: Nepal (Tilman). 50: An- nap. | Very satisfactory. |
+ .. + | Pintso Nurbu | •• | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Killed on Nanga Parbat 1937. |
I41 | Pintso Sherpa | 1913 | 38: K.2. 39: K.2. | Killed on K..2 1939. |
D. 32 | Ringsing Bhutia | 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. 36: Garh (Os- maston). 38: Ev. | Died in 1947. Tiger's Badge. | |
119 | Rinsing II | 36: Ev. | ? | |
D.74 | Samden | 36: Ev. | Died in Simla 1948. | |
93 | Samdup | 36: KK (French). | Gone to Tibet. | |
D. 77 | San Dorji | 35: Ev. | Died, Sola Khumbu,1945. | |
D.37 | Sanglu Sirdar | 1885 | 20: Kanga La (Kellas). 21: Ev. 22: Ev. 24: Ev. 29: Kashmir (Noel). 31: Kanch. s6: KK (French"). | Died in 1941. |
80 D. 88 |
Santu Sanu Pasang |
1913 | 36: Ev. 36: KK (French). |
? Died, date unknown. |
151* | Sarki | 1920 | 46: Nun Kun. 46: Ghomo Yummo (Braham). 50: An- nap. 50: Nepal (Madgavkar). | Reached Camp V on Annapurna. Possibly the most promising of the younger Sher- pas. |
82 | Sona(m) | 1915 | 36: Ev. | Now Police Dept., Calcutta. |
II D. 94 | Sonam Bhutia | 1909 | 36: KK (French). | Died, date unknown. |
143 | Sonam Sherpa | 39: K.2. | Now too frail. | |
75 | Sonam | 35: Ev. 36: Ev. 36: | Gone to Sola | |
Tenzing | Garh (Osmaston). 37: Shaksgam. 38: Ev (Tilman"). | Khumbu. | ||
D. .. | Sonam Topgay I | 1903 | 34: N.P. | Died in 1935. |
102 | Sonam Topgay II | 36: KK (French). | ? | |
106 | Sonam Tsering | 1917 | 36: KK (French). 46: Sasir (Roberts). | Left Darjeeling. |
107 D. 47 | Tarke Tashi Thondup |
.. 1897 |
36: KK (French). 22: Ev. 24: Ev. 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kanch 33: Tibet (K. Ward). 34: N.P. 35: Tibet (K. Ward). | ? Died in 1944. |
6 | Tehley (Socogem) | 1888 | 27: Gyantse (Gour- ley). 29: Kanch. 32: Chomo Yummo (Spence). 34: Sik. | too old now. |
48* | Tenzing Bhutia | 1917 | 36: Ev. 36: Garh (Os- maston). 38: Ev. 38: Garh (Osmaston). 39: Chitral (Mid- ar?). 46: Sik (Kir- sopp). 47: Ev (Den- man). 47: Gangotri (Roch). 48: Lhasa (Tucci). 49: Nepal (Tilman). 50: Ban- darpunch (Gibson). 50/51 :KK. (March). | Technically prob- ably the best of all the Sherpas now working. Is qualified to lead in difficult terrain. Tiger's Badge. |
108 | Tenzing (Lhakpa) | .. | 3b: KK (Frcnch). | ? |
D. 12 | Tewang | .. | 24: Ev. 29: Kanch. 33: Ev. 34: Ev (Wilson). 35 Ev. 36: Ev. | Went mad, died 1942. |
60 | Thundu Bhutia |
.. | 33: Ev. 34: N.P. | Too old now. |
I54 | Tkundu Sherpa |
1915 | 45-50 Many Sikkim tours, | Excellent cook. |
95 .. .. |
Thupden Tillye Tsering |
1918 | 36: KK (French). 39: Garh (Roch). 39: K.2. |
? ? ? |
D. 50 | Tsering Tarke | 1908 | 29: Kanch. 33: Ev. 35: Ev. 36: Ev. | Died in 1936. |
38 | Tse Tendrup | 1909 | 36: KK (French). 38: K.2. W K.2. | Too old now. |
109 | Tsinge Temba | .. | 36: KK (French). | ? |
D.59 | Tsong Dumdu | .. | 29: Kanch. 34: Tibet. | Died in 1936. |
D. 148 | Tuthin Bhutia | 19I2 | 38: N.P. | Died in 1942. |
123 | Wangdi | .. | 36: Ev. | ? |
25 | Wangdi Nurbu (Ongdi) | .. | 29: Kanch. 30: Kanch. 31: Kamet. 33: Ev. 34: N.P. 36: Ev. 37: Garh (Smythe). 38: Ev. 38: Garh (Austr). 39: Assam (Tilman). 47: Gangotri (Roch). | No longer available.Broke ankle, Gangotri, 1947- Tiger's Badge. |
NOTES ON SOME OF THE HIGH-ALTITUDE PORTERS NOW AVAILABLE
The following three have the highest reputation among the sirdars now available:
Angtharkay, aged 41. He gained a high reputation on the Everest Expeditions of 1936 and 1938. Since then he has lost nothing of his mountaineering ability but gained considerably in experience. On many minor expeditions in Sikkim he has acted as a 'guide', in the Swiss sense of the word, finding the route and leading to the top. His great experience enables him to smooth out difficulties with local coolies and make the utmost use of local resources. He is, according to many testimonies, a most pleasant and interesting companion. Angtharkay normally supplies porters and sirdars for the various expeditions.
Pasang Dawa Lama, or Pasang Dawa Sherpa, aged 39. He reached the summit of Chomolhari with Spencer Chapman in 1937. In 1939 he reached 27,450 feet on K.2, which, if the figures are correct, is the greatest altitude reached by any Sherpa. He has not taken part in any of the big expeditions lately: it is difficult therefore to judge of his present mountaineering ability, though he readied the summit of Chomo Yummo in 1950, together with J. P. Lucas. A word of caution: lie is not above trying to get as much money as he can from his employers.
Tenzing Bhutia, or Tenzing Khumjung, aged 33. He is the most accomplished of the three, and speaks English quite well. In the winter of 1949/50 he was employed as a ski-ing instructor with the Indian Army in Kashmir. He is a very good climber, well qualified to act as a 'guide'. His work on Bandarpunch in 1950 was highly praised. As he is the youngest of the three a great future is before him.
Of the other Sherpas Dawa Thondup, aged 43, should be especially mentioned. In spite of his age he is still first class. He reached the summit of Abi Gamin in 1950. He is very modest-possibly the reason why he has not acted as sirdar up till now.
Among the younger generation of porters Sarki deserves special mention. His work on Nun Kun was highly praised, and he reached Camp V on Annapurna carrying a heavy load. Several others are also gaining a good reputation. The gap caused by the war seems to be slowly filling up again. Much credit for the training of the younger men goes to the Swiss expeditions. It is to be hoped that future expeditions will always employ one or two of the younger porters (they are normally better at load-carrying) so that they may gain experience.
All the Sherpas and Bhutias of Darjeeling have suffered greatly in the overwhelming landslides of June 1950. Many houses were destroyed, and a great number of them are still living in temporary quarters, or, having found accommodation, are having to pay exorbitant rents.
RULES FOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF SHERPA PORTERS
The following rules have no official authority, but they have been prepared in the light of conditions obtaining at present, and the rates given are based on those now prevailing; as such, they are intended to serve merely as a guide to members.
Rates. For small expeditions and expeditions working mainly below the snow-line: Sirdar, Rs. 5 per day; Porter, Rs. 3 per day. Half-rates for porters returning unladen during the course of small expeditions. For expeditions of longer duration: Sirdar, Rs. 150 to Rs. 175 per month; Porters, Rs. 100 to Rs. 120 per month.
Advances. Rs. 20 to Rs. 25 per month; e.g. for an expedition lasting three months, Rs. 60 to Rs. 75 is the usual advance, which should be paid at least a month beforehand. The amount will not be refunded if the expedition is cancelled within a fortnight of the start. The Hon. Local Secretary in Darjeeling would be prepared to assist leaders of expeditions, but he would require ample notice.
Food. For tours in Sikkim porters provide their own food along bungalow routes, but food must be provided for them off the main routes and above the snow-line. It is customary, also, to provide them with cigarettes.
Equipment. Must be provided by the employer, especially in the case of mountaineering parties. Some small expeditions have found it cheaper to pay porters a hire charge for supplying their own equipment, which is generally good and mainly acquired from large foreign expeditions. The usual hire charge in this case is Rs. 20 per month, payable to each fully-equipped man.
Fares. Third-class railway fares from and to Darjeeling should be paid, plus Rs. 2 per day for food.
It should be noted that members resident in India often complain that foreign expeditions tend to spoil porters by paying enhanced rates, e.g. Rs. 210 per month was paid in 1950 to a sirdar; or by giving them a large 'bakshish' at the end, although this should never be more than 15 per cent, of their wages; or by presenting them with wrist-watches and other such gifts; or by offering them horses to ride during the early marches. The other extreme, however, was recorded when one party expected their porters to carry loads of 70 lb. in addition to their own kit of 10 to 20 lb. Prodigious feats of load-carrying by Sherpa porters have been recorded on occasion, but they are not to be emulated. A porter's normal load should not exceed 50 to 60 lb. and on difficult ground and above the snow-line it should be rather less.
The following revised rates of compensation payable for injury or death to porters were introduced in August 1950 by the Political Officer in Sikkim:
Undertaking to pay Compensation
I hereby undertake to pay any porter, sirdar, or other servant hired by me for the purpose of my tour, or to his dependants, or failing that to his nearest living relative, compensation on the undermentioned scale, in the event of his meeting death or suffering injury while in my employ:
(a) Injury: Partial or whole loss of finger or toe: Rs. 10 per joint or part of a joint lost or damaged, exccpt on the index finger, thumb, or great toe, when the amount shall be doubled.
Partial or total loss of a limb .... Rs. 150
Loss of sight of both eyes .... Rs. 500
Loss of sight of one eye . . . . . Rs. 300
In addition to such compensation a subsistence allowance of Rs. 15 per month will be paid to any porter who is incapacitated from work through accident or frost-bite on an expedition, for a period up to a maximum of twelve months.
(b) Death: Married man .... Rs. 1,000
Single man ...... Rs. 500
Female porter (whether married or single) . Rs. 500