Himalayan Journal vol.14
The Himalayan Journal

Publication year:

H. W. Tobin
    (J. O. M. ROBERTS)
  4. NANDA GHUNTI, 1945
    (P. L. WOOD)
    (L. CHICKEN)
    (R. V. VERNEDE)
    (C.G. Wylie)
  10. NOTES


With the swift political changes in India during the current year have come equally swift changes in our executive. It has not been possible to keep these sufficiently up to date for the purposes of this Journal, and all that can be said definitely at the time of going to press is that our Hon. Secretary, Mr. A. Percy Lancaster, is carrying on almost unaided.

Extracts from the Annual Report for 1946-7 are reproduced below, though some of them must inevitably be out of date:

Membership. Fifty-seven new members were elected during the year, and in May the total membership was 572.

Obituary. The death of the following members is mourned: W. E. Buchanan. Countess Roberts. E. H. L. Wigram. L. C. Shaw. M. Hermann Etter. Sir George Barnes.

Expeditions and Treks. Several accounts have been received, and some have been included in this volume. It was not possible to use them all, but thanks are due to those who so nobly responded to the appeal for 'copy'. Apart from those activities, search parties were organized for recovering the bodies of Captain Langton-Smith and his party who were lost on the Zemu glacier in October 1945. One party, led by Major Kirsopp-Reed, found the half-burned body of Mr. Roy, who had died of pneumonia on the way. The body was buried and certain belongings brought back. The body of a porter, Lhkba Nehru, was found lying under a boulder in the middle of a stream half a mile east of Green Lake. Various articles, including five rolls of films, were found in a cave near the junction of Tent Peak glacier with the Zemu. Although much information about the lost party was obtained, Captain Langton-Smith's body was not found. Another search party, led by Captain J. W. Thornley, Gurkha Rifles, during September- October 1946, made further search without success.

The Central Waterways Irrigation and Navigation Commission organized a reconnaissance expedition to carry out in early March a snow survey of certain glaciers in Sikkim and Nepal. Their report has not yet been received.

Of Andre Roch's Gangotri Expedition there is no detailed news. A very brief report stated that they had ascended Kedarnath and Satopanth, and had done well in the collection of plants and butterflies. There has been no definite information from Tilman's party, but a report has come in that an attempt upon Rakaposhi has failed.

It has been reported in the Swiss Press that a New Zealander, by name Earl Denman, made a single-handed attempt on Everest early in the year. The affair is still wrapped in mystery.

Himalayan Journal. The Journal again came to life under the editorship of C. W. F. Noyce, after a gap of several years. The high standard of production set by Kenneth Mason has been maintained.

Himalayan Dinner. The first post-war dinner was held at the Dorchester Hotel on the 20th November 1946, and was again organized by Lt.-Gol. Tobin. The Chair was ably occupied by Dr. Somervell, and over sixty covers were laid. Among those present were Mrs. Townend, Mr. Tilman, and Brig. Glennie. Major Clark, for many years Hon. Secretary, gave a brief review of the work of the Club during the war. The menu was illustrated by 'Bip Pares' (author of Himalayan Honeymoon) in her own inimitable style. After dinner Major Waller showed his Masherbrum film, which was greatly admired. It was a most successful evening.

  1. Addresses
All communications for the Hon. Secretary and the Hon. Librarian should be addressed as in the notice printed on page 108.
  1. Library
A gift of some hundred volumes on mountaineering has been made to the Club under a bequest from the late Mr. Augustus A. Vlasto of Ralli Brothers. The executors of Mr. Vlasto's name defrayed the expense of dispatching these books from England to Simla in order to save the Himalayan Club all expense in the matter. The Library list of books is being amended accordingly.

III. Equipment

Requests for equipment should be addressed either to A. H. d'A. Willis, Esq., c/o Place Siddons & Gough, 6 Lyons Range, Calcutta, or A. R. Leyden, Esq., c/o Allied Photographies Ltd., 193 Hornby Rd., Bombay.

IV. Journal

Articles and papers for inclusion in the Club Journal should be addressed to the Honorary Editor, Himalayan Club, Crosstrees, Lymington, Hants.

V. Appointments

The following changes have taken place among the Club Officers:

Vice-President: A. R. Leyden, vice J. B. Morrison.

Hon. Secretary: A. Percy Lancaster, vice A. F. Clark.

Hon. Treas.: J. S. H. Shattock, vice J. B. Shearer.

Hon. Sec., Eastern Section: A. C. Hartley.

Hon. Editor: H. W. Tobin, vice C. W. F. Noyce.

Hon. Asst. Editor: Mrs. Joan Townend.

Local Sec.: Chumba: J. S. H. Shattock.

Local Sec.: Darjeeling: T. J. Hardingham.

C. R. Cooke, Vice-President, and J. B. Shearer, Honorary Treasurer, who elected to serve in Pakistan, have moved to Karachi.

VI. Change of Address

Will members please notify new addresses to the Honorary Secretary? Responsibility for non-delivery cannot be taken in the case of members who fail to do this.

Our thanks are due to all those members who functioned as Office-bearers during the busy years of the war. In particular we would like to thank Captain Noyce for his Editorship in 1946, and Major Clark for carrying on the onerous duties of Honorary Secretary, which he so ably performed from 1941 to 1946.

Bombay Section: A local section of the Himalayan Club was formed at Bombay on the 2nd July 1946 at a meeting presided over by Mr. A. R. Leyden. The response was encouraging and we hope that the movement will prosper.

Kenya Mountain Club of East Africa: The Honorary Secretary of this Club has drawn our attention to their permanent address, which is P.O. Box 1831, Nairobi, Kenya. The Kenya Mountain Club offers its willing assistance and advice to members of the Himalayan Club.

Crest for Club Note-paper: A crest for use on all official letters of the Club has been designed by Mr. C. R. Cooke. It consists of the letters H.C. superimposed upon an outline of the Chorten seen on the way to the Rongbuk glacier below Mount Everest. Pads of two sizes will shortly be available, on payment, from the Honorary Secretary.

VII. Transfer of Club Headquarters

Minutes of an Emergency General Meeting of the Club held on 21 st November 1947.


M. W. Yeatts, Esq., C.S.I., G.I.E., I.G.S.: President.

Sir Alan Lloyd, G.S.I., G.I.E., I.C.S.: Member.

Col. G. H. Osmaston, M.C.: Equipment Officer.

B. K. Guha, Esq.: Member.

F. B. Blomfield, Esq.: Member.

A. Percy Lancaster, Esq.: Hon. Secretary.

Mr. Yeatts was in the Chair.

1. The meeting discussed the position of the Club in the light of changes due to the transfer of officers from Delhi. It was decided that, subject to the consent of the Eastern Section, the Headquarters of the Club should be transferred to Calcutta in view of the growing paucity of members in Delhi who are able to undertake the duties of office-bearers and members of the Committee.
  1. The President expressed his willingness to remain in office pending the election of a President from amongst members resident in Calcutta.
  2. The meeting recommended that a further general meeting of the Club be held in Calcutta at an early date to elect a Secretary and Treasurer for the Club as a whole in place of the present incumbents in Delhi.
  3. It was decided, again subject to the consent of the Eastern Section, to transfer the Library and records and all but a small nucleus of the equipment to Calcutta. Colonel Osmaston kindly undertook to arrange for the transportation of the books, records, and equipment.
  4. In anticipation of point 3 above being agreed to, the meeting authorized the present President at his discretion to instruct the bank as to who shall operate the Accounts of the Club.
  5. Colonel Osmaston undertook to hold the position of Honorary Secretary vice Mr. Lancaster until the transfer to Calcutta is effected.
    1. P. Lancaster
    2. Honorary Secretary
new delhi

November 194J


Delhi is the natural Headquarters for the Himalayan Club, but one effect of recent events has been to reduce the number of members stationed there below the figure necessary for the various offices of the Club. It has therefore been decided to transfer Headquarters for the present. Equipment will be stored at Bombay and Calcutta. The Library will remain in New Delhi.

The position will be reviewed in the light of future developments.

From the Date of this notice communications to the Club should be as follows (P.O. Box No. 291, New Delhi, will be closed from 1st February 1948):

President: M. W. Yeats, Esq., C.S.I., C.I.E., I.C.S.,

11 York Road, New Delhi.

Librarian: J. L. Bhatnagar, Esq.,

c/o Army Headquarters Officers' Library, South Block, New Delhi.

Hon. Secretary: W. E. Murphy, Esq.,

United Service Club, Calcutta.

Hon. Treasurer: F. H. V. Scrimgeour, Esq.,

c/o Duncan Bros., Calcutta.

Equipment: A. H. d'A. Willis, Esq.,

(in Calcutta) c /o Place Siddons & Gough, 6 Lyons Range, Calcutta.

Equipment: A. R. Leyden, Esq.,

(in Bombay) c/o Allied Photographies Ltd., 193 Hornby Road, Bombay.

G. H. Osmaston, Colonel,

new delhi Honorary Secretary,

1 st January 1948 Himalayan Club.

Publication: A pamphlet by C. R. Cooke, on the nailing and oiling of boots, has been published by the Club. Copies are available from the Equipment Officer, free to members, 4 annas a copy to the public.