CLUB PROCEEDINGS

 

THE
HIMALAYAN JOURNAL
RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

 

EDITED BY
C. W. F. NOYCE

 

‘ To encourage and assist Himalayan travel and exploration, and to extend knowledge of the Himalaya and adjoin¬ing mountain ranges through science, arty literature, and sport’.

 

VOLUME XIII
1946

OXFORD
AT THE CLARENDON PRESS
LONDON : GEOFFREY CUMBERLEGE

 

THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

 

President:
M. W. YEATTS, Esq.

Vice-Presidents:
J. B. MORRISON, ESQ.
G. R. COOKE, ESQ.

Honorary Secretary:
MAJOR A. F. CLARK.

Honorary Assistant Secretary:
A. PERCY-LANCASTER, Esq.

Honorary Local Secretaries:
KASHMIR: F. A. BETTERTON, ESQ.
CHAMBA: J. SLATTERY, ESQ.
GARHWAL: MRS. A. E. BROWNE.
DARJEELING: MRS. A. J. DASH.
KULU: MAJOR H. M. BANON.
EASTERN SECTION: L. R. FAWCUS, ESQ.

HONORARY EDITOR:
C. W. F. NOYCE, Esq.

Honorary Assistant Editor:
MRS. H. P. V. TOWNEND.

Honorary Treasurer:
J. B. SHEARER, Esq.

Committee:

LT.-COL. J. B. ANGWIN. L. R. FAWCUS, ESQ. MISS B. N. JOLY. P. MASON, ESQ. BRIGADIER G. H. OSMASTON.

MAJOR GENERAL J. G. BRUCE. MAJOR J. R. FOY. G. B. GOURLAY, ESQ. SIR ALAN LLOYD. J. S. H. SIIATTOCK, ESQ.

 

Additional Members of the Balloting Committee:

J. G. ACHESON, ESQ. MAJOR GENERAL D. BEANLAND. T. A. SCHINZEL, ESQ. H. LALL, ESQ. C. I. TURCAN, ESQ.

C. CRAWFORD, ESQ. N. F. FROME, ESQ. S. S. KHERA, ESQ. MAJOR J. O. M. ROBERTS. K. L. H. WADLEY, ESQ.

 

Reprinted from the original edition published by Oxford University Press, Indian Branch, on behalf of the Himalayan Club by arrangement with the publishers.

 

A meeting of the Central Committee of the Himalayan Club was held at New Delhi on 17 th May 1946. The Annual General Meeting was held in the President's, M. W. Yeatts, room in Jaiselmer House, Mansingh Road, New Delhi, on 24th May 1946. The President took the Chair.

The minutes of the last Annual General Meeting were read and accepted. The Honorary Secretary's report for 1945 was received, as was a statement of accounts from the Honorary Treasurer.

Report on Work of the Club during the Year

Membership. Forty new members were elected during 1945. The membership is now 527, as against the 497 of 1940, the last year in which the Journal was published.

Obituary. We mourn the death of the following members of the Club:

Sir Charles Bell.
L. Bujak, Esq., reported drowned.
Lt. P. G. Burder, killed in action.
Capt. P. R. Collins, killed in action.
Major R. J. P. Locke, killed in action.
Major-General Sir Charles McWatt.
Lt.-Col. A. D. G. Ramsay.
Col. C. H. D. Ryder, a founder member.
Theodore Roosevelt.
K. C. Roy, Esq., died during a trek in the Zemu valley.
Capt. Langton Smith, lost with his party on the Zemu glacier.

In Memoriam Notices will be found earlier in this number. It is regretted that it has not been possible to amass more of them. Any information regarding possible notices for the next number should be sent to the Honorary Editor.

Library. The following were issued during the year: Library books—134. Volumes of Himalayan Journal—90. Copies of A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg, Kashmir—108. Elements of Cragsmanship —55-

The Club undertook during 1945 the publication of A Climber's Guide to Sonamarg, compiled by instructors at Aircrew Mountain Centre, and of Elements of Cragsmanship by P. Work. The guide is on sale to the general public through the local secretaries and through book shops in Delhi and Srinagar. It is free to members on application.

Climbing on Home Leave by W. "Allsup is also free on application to members. On payment: Routes in the Western Himalaya, Kashmir, &c., by Kenneth Mason (Rsi.8), and the Club Catalogue (8 annas) are available.

Club Dinners. A Club dinner was held at the Imperial Hotel, New Delhi, on 19th April 1945. This was the first dinner to be held either in Delhi or Simla and was restricted to members. Seventeen attended. Talks were given by C. R. "Cooke and G. Whittle; the latter also showed lantern slides and photographs.

Owing to the success of the first dinner a second was held on 22nd November 1945^ at the Imperial Delhi Gymkhana Club. This was attended by forty-eight members* and guests. After-dinner talks were given by Brigadier E. A. Glennie and C. R. Cooke.

Replies to a proposal for a Club dinner in London have not been encouraging. It is asked that those interested in a Club lunch should get in touch with Colonel H. W. Tobin.

Aircrew Mountain Centre continued its work in Kashmir during 1945. Some account of the summer activities is given on p. 87 of this number. The Centre was only finally closed in the early part of 1946.

Reports. It was stressed in the Honorary Secretary's annual Report that he and the Honorary Librarian are often asked for information on climbs and treks which it is known have been carried out before. Members are asked to let them have details of expeditions and, where possible, photographs in case these should be of use to the Honorary Editor. (See 'Club Notices', Section VI.)

Awards. We record that Brigadier E. A. Glennie, c.i.e., d.s.o., of the Survey of India, has been awarded the Founder's Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society for 1946.

Liaison Officers. In the past it has been the policy of the Government of India to request the Club to supply a liaison officer to accompany any foreign expedition climbing in India. The duties of the liaison officer are to ensure that the porters and local inhabitants are properly treated, that local customs are observed, &c. Before the war the Club kept a panel of names of members who wished to be considered for these appointments, and it is proposed to start a list again. The secretary asks that those interested should send their names to him. A Swiss expedition is expected to be coming out in 1947 to attempt either K₂ or Nanga Parbat. An American expedition is proposed to Kangchenjunga.

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