EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

  1. EXPEDITION AROUND TERI KANG
  2. KHULA KANGRI AND INVESTIGATION OF LAKE PUMA YUMCO
  3. RAMTANG
  4. MUSTANG
  5. LHOTSE SOUTH FACE IN WINTER
  6. FIRST SKI DESCENT OF SHIVLING
  7. GERMAN TIRSULI SOUTH WALL EXPEDITION, 2001
  8. NANDA KOT SOUTH FACE
  9. NILKANTH, 2001
  10. BHAGIRATHI
  11. ASCENT OF SAMAR LUNGPA PEAK
  12. RAMJAK
  13. NEVERSEEN TOWER
  14. EXPLORATION IN KUBER GLACIER
  15. CHITTAPANI
  16. CLIMB OF STOK KANGRI AND GULAP KANGRI
  17. RUPSHU REVISITED
  18. A QUIET PLACE IN THE KARAKORAM
  19. YANGRA KANGRI

 

 

 

1. EXPEDITION AROUND TERI KANG

Lunana area in the Bhutan Himalaya

YOSHINAGA HIDEAKI

SINCE 1985, THE ACADEMIC ALPINE CLUB of Chiba University has dispatched three academic expeditions for ecological surveys and mountaineering, We succeeded with the first ascent of Namshila (6500 m) in 1985, and of Tsenda Kang (7000 m) in 1991.

The third expedition led by H. Yoshinaga was conducted as an high-altitude trek since mountaineering is not yet permitted in Bhutan, around Teri Kang (7000 m) area, Lunana in 2001. Even though the area is a part of a trekking route named 'Snowman Trek' and visited by mainly European trekkers, the area is surrounded by high passes of over 5000 m such as Gofu la, 5300 m, Gonjyu la, 5100 m, Karakachu la, 5050 m. One can hardly can enter the area particularly during snowy period. We started from Tashitang (1750 m. along Mo-Chu which was 23 km above Punakha on 25 September, 2001. After eight days of trekking with horses and yaks, we arrived on 1 October at Tarinaa (4000 m) beyond Karakachu la, and established base camp. In contrast to Nepal, well-trained Sherpas and porters are not available in Bhutan Himalaya, and moreover Yak herders do not want to get into areas where there is no yak trail. We therefore had to carry all equipment and luggage by ourselves above the base camp.

We chose a route along right side of Tarina chu above base camp, and bypassed the side-moraine to climb Tarina glacier. Impassable rhododendron bushes mostly covered the route. We took much time to reach ABC (4600 m). At the end of Terina glacier, there are two big glacial lakes, and a glacial tongue forming 200-300m high cliffs. The lake is drained by a big river, 10 m wide. On 6 October, we established ABC on a side moraine at 4600 m. From the next day onwards, we started to climb to the foot of the southwest ridge of Teri Kang, and established a temporary Camp 1 (5000 m) on the ridge 8 October. The route traced a hanging glacier on the northeast slope of the southwest ridge having a big glacial cirque. On 11 October we established Camp 1 above the big and we traversed it to the upper ridge using fixed rope of 250 m, however we could not reach the upper ridge at 5600 m. We got views of the mountains that form the traditional China border beyond Tarina glacier.

Tsenda-kang/Teri-kang region

Tsenda-kang/Teri-kang region

Many unclimbed peak such as Gangkerphunzum are located in the Lunana area, near the Chinese border, although the borderline is not yet demarcated. We wish to visit this area and study the topographical, geographical features in the near future.

Basong lake and monastery.

Article 17 (T. Nakamura)
56. Basong lake and monastery.

Khula Kangri massif from ABC.

Note 2 (Y. Deriha)
57. Khula Kangri massif from ABC.

Itinerary

24 September : Started from Thimphu, reached Tashitang via Punakha

25 September : Caravan started for Teri Kang

2 October : Established Base Camp (4000 m) in Tarina via Karakachu la

6 October : Established Advance Base Camp (4600 m) on the moraine of Tarina Glacier.

8 October : Established Temporary Camp 1 (5000 m) at the foot of southwest ridge of Teri Kang

11 October : Established Camp 1 (5500 m) on the southwest ridge above big Glacial cirque.

12 October: Reached 5600 m just below southwest ridge. 15 October : Return caravan started from Tarina.

22 October : Arrived at Thimphu.

Summary: Expedition to Bhutan, in 2001.

Photo 58

 

 

 

 

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2. KHULA KANGRI AND INVESTIGATION OF LAKE PUMA YUMCO

Tokai University and Tibet University Friendship Expedition

YOSHITSUGU DERIHA

IN THE SPRING OF 2001, a team from Tokai University stood atop he unscaled central peak (7418 m) and eastern peak (7381m) of Khula Kangri in Tibet, China. We also made significant progress in scientific research on Lake Puma Yumco, which is located on the highest plateau in Tibet. The altitude of the lake is 5070 m above sea level (highest among lakes of this size in the world).

The Tibet University of China joined us in this mountaineering expedition and researchers from the Chinese Academy of Sciences (CAS) took part in the research. This paper serves to report primarily on the scientific research and on the climbing of Khula Kangri.

Mountaineering Report

The expedition team succeeded in the first ascents of both the central peak (7418 m) and the eastern peak (7381 m) of the Khula Kangri massif. The team consisted of 19 members from Tokai University and Tibet University. The Japanese part consisted of leader Yoshitsugu Deriha and 10 members while the Tibetan part consisted of leader Tseden Jigmy and seven members. There were over 30 members in all, including the supporting team.

April 1: The team set up BC in Monda at the foot of the mountains at 4250 m. Then they climbed in neighbouring areas for acclimatisation and visited nearby villages and an elementary school, to conduct medical checks for children.

April 4: Using 85 pack animals (donkeys and horses), we set up ABC (advance base camp) on the glacier moraine at 5400 m. ABC was best suited for a good view of the north side of the Khula Kangri mountain group.

April 7: We started moving toward C1. Immediately we commenced examining the climbing route and carrying gears and supplies to the upper camp.

April 9: We set up C1 at 5900 m.

April 12: We started substantial climbs. First we paved a route in an icefall area.

We crossed the glacier from C1 and went up the icefall with a 500 m precipitous drop. We followed a route on a gentle slope closer to Karejiang (7221 m) and got through a complicated shellac zone. We installed an aluminum ladder on steep slanting icy rocks en route and climbed up toward the upper area bypassing a large crevasse. It took eight days.

April 19: We set up C2 on a flat ground at 6350 m. We placed 1500 m of fixed ropes to ensure a safe ascent.

April 23: We started climbing up the north side which led downward to the glacier. Panting, we climbed up the steep slanting icy wall. Our movements became extremely slow above 7000 m. This steep slant was much longer than we had foreseen. Even though we started initial route-finding early in the morning, it was not until the evening that we could reach the upper area of this slant. It was really hard climbing.

Tsenda-kang/Teri-kang region

Tsenda-kang/Teri-kang region

April 30: We used up the remaining 1500 m fixed ropes. We could not reach the point that was planned for C3. As a result, we went around the steep slant on the east peak side to set up C3.

April 30: A team of six members left C1 to attack the central peak.

May 1: The team gathered in C3.

May 2: Under the clear and sunny sky and no wind, the team departed for the central peak. Two members from Tibet University were first to reach the summit and two from Tokai University followed in succession.

May 3: The east peak summit team of nine members reached C3.

May 4: The team climbed the east peak under a sunny sky but strong wind. Three members from Tibet University reached the peak first and six from Tokai University followed. The weather changed periodically as the monsoon started. On the same day, the main peak party of three, who planned to climb along the ridges, reached C3.

May 5: The team left for the main peak, but gave up and returned to C3 due to bad weather and poor visibility.

May 6: As the weather turned better, the main peak team again got started. They reached the central peak. But the weather turned bad and they had to give up attacking the main peak. Nevertheless, as a result, it was fortunate that 17 members could reach the top. Although two members got frostbitten while climbing, they have been recuperating well.

The Academic Report

Lake Puma Yumco is located in southcentral Tibet. It is an elliptical lake 32 km by 13 km. The following characteristics of this lake have been found through satellite image analysis and a preparatory investigation made in the fall of 2000.

1. It has changed in shape with the passage of time. It keeps getting deeper. Called a tectonic lake, it has a long history of changing features since its birth. 2. It is thought that the ecosystem in the lake is as large and vibrant as that of a lake on sea level.

Since Lake Puma Yumco has these unique features, it was expected to cast light on interesting biological phenomena to be studied for the first time in the world. It was also expected to assist especially in earth-scientific, geo-scientific and biological research. In light of these expectations, the investigation was conducted with the following three points as the primary goal.

  1. Elucidation of life activities in the high altitude lake, its native life and their ecological, physiological, morphological and metabolic scale characteristics.
  2. Analysis on the change of the climatic environment recorded in the lacustrine sediments, topographic and the geological stratum. Examination of the hypothetical factors dominating the theory of a 100,000-year cycle of glacial and inter-glacial periods.
  3. Examination of the plateau's possible role as a natural sensor and monitor for global warming and change in its related climatic environment.

Analysis on the change of the climatic environments recorded in the lacustrine sediments

A lake is a rich source of environmental information as it continuously records changes in the climatic environment. Particularly, investigating its lacustrine sedimentary records indicated the following, changes in the climatic environment: We are in the glacial epoch that has a glacier period, (a cold period) and an inter-glacier period (a warm period) in a 100,000-year cycle for every million years. The cycle of change of climatic environment is caused by the amount of insolation with the change of the 100,000-year cycle. It is a part of the Milankovitch cycle.

The controversial point of this theory is that the change in the amount of insulation as a dominant factor of the climatic environment does not seem to bring sufficient energy to directly determine the cycle of the change between a glacial period and an interglacial period. Therefore, the change in the amount of insulation appears to play a role of a trigger to bring about a change in the climatic environment.

The transition from an interglacial period to a glacial period is explained as follows: as the amount of insulation decreases, the temperature drops locally. The local temperature drop activates a kind of natural device to amplify the temperature drop globally. That natural device is considered to exist somewhere on earth.

The theory of the Tibet Plateau ice sheet suggests that this device exists in Tibet.

According to the theory, the decrease in the amount of insulation causes the Tibet Plateau to be covered with ice, as it is 4000 - 5000 meters above sea level. Then, a global temperature drop is triggered by the significant reduction in insulation due to the reflection on the ice sheet.

The history of the controversy over this theory dates back to the 1930s, but no conclusion has been reached. The primary reason is that the topography and the geological strata of the Tibet Plateau do not appear to have left evidences of the ice sheet.

Kobe University and CAS jointly attempted to find some evidence from lacustrine sediments of a lake in the central part of the Tibet Plateau. However, this attempt did not succeed. This time we have succeeded in obtaining some samples of lacustrine sediments of Lake Puma Yumco, which may help to prove the theory of the Tibet Plateau ice sheet.

Road to Puma Yumco & Khula Kangri

Road to Puma Yumco & Khula Kangri

3.8-meter-long lacustrine sediments were taken from the bottom of the 46-metre deep lake. The sample was fractionated in 0.5 to 1cm lengths toward the bottom of the lake. The analyses conducted will provide information on at least the past 50,000 years' changes in the climatic environment including the glacial maximum for about 20,000 years.

Examination on the change of the climatic environment related to global warming

Global warming has greatly been affecting each region of the world in temperature, precipitation, and wind. A natural sensor that can accurately gauge changes is needed on a global scale, and lakes are being regarded as such. Lake Puma Yumco is expected to be a good representative.

PANAROMA F: View of Tirsuli Wall from SW of base camp.

Note 7 (Raif Messbacher)
PANAROMA F: View of Tirsuli Wall from SW of base camp. 1. Gorur Parvat (6504 m) 2. Gorur Forked Peak (6267 m) 3. Pk. 6635 4. Snow Dome (5820 m) 5. Tirsuli West (7035 m) 6. Pikka valley 7. Icicle valley 8. Silent valley; C1 5480 m, C2 5800 m, C3 6150 m, BC 5460 m, ABC 4980 m

PANAROMA E: Karejiang Group (left) and Khula Kangri massif. View from Mongda la. looking south.

Note 2 (Y. Deriha)
PANAROMA E: Karejiang Group (left) and Khula Kangri massif. View from Mongda la. looking south.

Lake Puma Yumco is influenced by the climatic system involving among others, southwest monsoons in summer and northwest monsoons in winter. Therefore, it is thought that the various features of Lake Puma Yumco would clearly reflect the change in climatic environment factors such as temperature, precipitation, and wind system.

The water-temperature distribution in the lake and the change in the quantitative and qualitative aspects of the various chemical constituents in the lake water are comprehended through the change of water-flow, water-circulation and stagnancy, and the increase and decrease in biological productivity. Lake Puma Yumco is located in a unique environment at 5000 metres above sea level and at a latitude of 30 degrees north.

The analysis of the old environmental change recorded in the lacustrine sediments will produce important data, but their actual verification will be made through continued observations after determining the current situation of the lake.

Summary of the Investigation for Research

The expedition leader was a professor of Tokai University, Mitsugu Nishimura. Ten members including those from other universities went with him. With the cooperation of CAS and China Mountaineering Association (CMA), the investigation started on 4 April. However, many of the expedition members had previously suffered from serious high-altitude sickness in Lhasa (3700 m) and then at Lake Puma Yumco BC (5000 m). Altitude sickness continued to trouble members until the end of the investigation.

Probably because spring in the Tibet Plateau was yet to come, we were constantly faced with ice covering the whole lake and strong cold wind. All investigative work met with great difficulties under these circumstances.

However, thanks to the members' untiring effort and generous cooperation of the Chinese counterparts, we were able to collect many precious samples and data. Each group is currently conducting analytical work.

The following is a chronological record in summary:

April 4: Set up BC at the shore of Lake Puma Yumco.
5: Started assembling the operation base boat; checked and adjusted machinery and equipment.
6: Started collecting plants on the lakefront.
7: Launched the operation base boat; also launched the three inflatable boats; started collecting fish.
8: Adjusted the geophysics exploring equipment; reviewed the lateral line for investigation; started quantitative- measurement of the ultraviolet and visible rays on land. Investigated the river terrace in the east of the lake; started collecting samples for dating.
9: Installed and adjusted the geophysical exploring equipment on the operation base boat; collected algae in the river on the east of the lake; started quantitative- measurement of the cosmic rays.
10: Started collecting benthos and plankton samples; quantitative-measurement of underwater ultraviolet rays; topographical-survey of the area of the excurrent river in the east of the lake; started collecting samples for dating.
11: Collected aquatic purple bacteria and green algae; caught three kinds of fish in the area of the excurrent river in the east of the lake; started checking water by CTD at nine fixed points of the lake.
12: Caught a sort of shrimp on the lake front; collected aqua life such as fish, plankton, benthos; started collecting water samples for investigation; started investigation of the topographical features of the glacier near the excurrent river to the east of the lake.
13: Started geophysics exploration aboard the operation base boat; measured six lateral line.
15: Conducted geophysical exploration, measuring three lateral lines; completed the geophysical exploration.
17: Conducted investigation of the topographical features of the glacier near the excurrent river in the east of the lake; started collecting samples for dating.
18: Conducted water-clarity and hydro-illumination measurements at six fixed points of the lake, CYD observation, exploratory drilling for columnar sediments with a piston corer.

Khula Kangri massif from Puma Yuco lake.

Note 2 (Y. Deriha)
58. Khula Kangri massif from Puma Yuco lake.

Central peak of Khula Kangri (7418 m) from C3.

Note 2 (Y. Deriha)
59. Central peak of Khula Kangri (7418 m) from C3.

Teri Kang peaks on Taring glacier.

Note 2 (Y. Hideaki)
60. Teri Kang peaks on Taring glacier.

20: Succeeded in a 3.8 metre exploratory drilling and collected samples of columnar sediments from a 46 metre deep spot with the piston corer.
21: Topographical survey of the area near the excurrent river to the east of the lake.
22: Gave up on collecting the samples of the lake-bottom surface sediments by gravity-corer due to wind and ice.
23: Completed the academic investigation; descended to Puma Yumco Lake BC.

Investigation Items, Samples and Data

The following samples and data have been collected —

  1. Main forms of life and their distribution in the surrounding areas and in the lake: fish, plankton, bacteria, living life in the lower lacustrine parts waterweeds.
  2. Sunlight effect on bio-morphological, physiological, ecological activities of plankton, moss/lichen, fish, etc; sunlight spectrum and ultraviolet rays, the physiological and morphological aspects of each form of life.
  3. Study on the bio-scientific circulation concerning the elements such as C, N and P in the lake; water composition (dissolved matter, suspended matter), clarity of water, quantity of photosynthesis, analytical speed, pH, Eh etc.
  4. Investigation of the characteristics of the accumulation of sedimentary layers; Distribution of the lake's water depth and sedimentary layers' thickness.
  5. Collected samples of columnar sediments with 40,000 to 50,000 years' records; analysis of the climate using various kinds of organic molecules and the environmental change; columnar sediments (3-4 m) and their characteristics.
  6. Topographical features of the peripheral area of the lake and the study of the fourth geological era; topography of the surrounding areas, geological strata, rocks and geological chronology.

Summary: Survey and climbs around Khula Kangri area from the north in 2001.

Panorama E, Photos 55 to 60

 

 

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3. RAMTANG

DR. KARL PALLASMANN

SEVEN MEMBERS OF THE AUSTRIAN ALPENVEREIN spent five weeks (4 October 2001 to 5 November 2001) on an expedition to the 6701 m Ramtang, north of Kangchenjunga. Kangchenjunga 8598 m, is the third highest mountain of the world and is situated in the northeast of Nepal on the border to Sikkim and Tibet. It is part of the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area. The first ascent of the Ramtang via the east ridge had been achieved by the international 'rope- alliance', the Austrian Erwin Schneider and the British Frank Smythe in 1930.

The government of Nepal opened this remote area north of Kangchenjunga to the public in 1998. Since then two British and one American expedition climbed Ramtang. Their aim was the 6600 m 'Gratkopf — so named by the G. O. Dyhrenfurth expedition, 1930 — on the east ridge of Ramtang. The main peak is 100 m higher and far west. The ridge between these peaks is dangerous and very difficult. It was due to the brilliant ice technique of E. Schneider, who was in the lead that they succeeded.

To follow the tracks of E. Schneider was the aim of our expedition. Having landed in Suketar, an airfield at 2500 m, it took us 11 days to reach the base camp in Pangpema 5000 m. Through horrible trials : rain — leeches — wet clothes, in the first days, we thankfully reached the alpine climate zone in Tseram (4000 m). We crossed several 4000 m passes (Mirgin la, Selele la) and arrived in Pangpema in splendid weather. With the help of our high altitude Sherpas, we built up C1 at 5300 m, on the foot of Ramtang rock base. The camp was on the junction where the glacier comes down from the north slopes of Kangbachen and the Ramtang plateau to the Kangchenjunga glacier.

We returned the same day to BC for better acclimatisation.

Next day five members and two Sherpas set out again to stay overnight in C1. They set up C2 the next day and returned to C1. The following day, eight of us including the Sherpas ascended to C2 at 5900 m. Our petrol cooker had a big problem with Nepali petrol and so there was only one gas cooker left to supply eight persons with fluids. Finally, we all had only one chance to reach the summit, because the only functioning cooker had to be brought down with one member, who developed pneumonia and had to be accompanied to C1.

Three members and the two Sherpas climbed to the 6600 m 'Gratkopf. Gerhard Gfreiner and Mario Kostenbaumer climbed three more rope-lengths along the very dangerous ridge with some passages of — waist deep powder snow with no possibilities for belays.

Although one of them is one of Austrias top climber (John Harlin route on the Eiger north face in winter) they had to abandon the climb 70 m below the main summit. While they climbed Ramtang, the other members climbed the 6260 m high 'Mouse', on the ridge between Ramtang and Kambachen.

We all returned on the same day with the loads from C2 to C1. The patient with pneumonia developed high altitude pulmonary oedema. It took us 6 hours to reach the BC. He had hallucinations and severe weakness on the glacier. Nifedipin, Dexamethasone and Oxygen — administered by an open system — helped him reaching BC. Here I installed a recycling breathing system with a CO2 absorber. The two litre oxygen bottle, with a flow of which, lasted upto the next morning. While we headed down to the 1000 m lower Kambachen, the rest of the crew climbed the 6100 m Drohmo South Sporn and the 6250 m East Sporn. Happy, that our patient had recovered so well and full of good impressions we arrived in Suketar after a seven-day walk through rain forests and rice fields and returned healthy to Austria.

Expedition leader: Dr. Karl Pallasmann.

Members: Karl Cernic, Sepp Egarter, Gerhard Gfreiner, Mario Kostenbaumer, Walter Lackner, Peter Perwein.

Summary: Attempt on Ramtang (6701 m), Nepal, Oct-Nov 2001.

 

 

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4. MUSTANG

Climbing a nameless peak and short surveys around Mustang to the Northwest

TAMOTSU OHNISHI (Osaka Alpine Club)

THE SUMMER 2001 in Mustang was about to end when we placed training camps at a point of 4070 m and 4780 m (both GPS height) en route to Mesokanto Bhanjyang (5121 m) from Jomsom via Thini Khola. We spent a week there for acclimatisation in the first stage. As planned, we got well acclimatised and made short climbs to the pass in the vicinity. On 11 September, we hurried down so as to arrive at Jomsom on the same day. The next day, we heard about the horrible tragedy in New York and the Pentagon. We watched the terrible scenes on BBC news in horror.

The second stage started on 15 September. We moved towards the northern hills over Gnyala Bhanjyang (4077 m), north of Muktinath, which we visited on the way. For about five days, we marched, wandering along the route toward Damodar Kund, which was a sacred place for Hindus. On this caravan route, after two camps towards the northeast, we ascended small rock peaks of 5078 m and 5211 m on the subsidiary ridge of Damodar Himal group to the southeast in order to have the panoramic views. We were now approaching the dry and deserted highlands east of Kali Gandaki river, a grey brown land against a deep blue sky, just after the end of monsoon. All of us were in an ecstatic mood. We enjoyed a grand view of the lofty Dhaulagiri peaks and the Annapurna-Nilgiri massif. To the west was a chain of mountain peaks a little lower than 6000 m that formed the divide between Mustang and Dolpo. The peaks, which were mostly granite, were soaring sharply above the red cliffs of the admirably wind-eroded Thakmar strata. They were also snow-capped on the pointed summits. The scenery to the distant northwest was higher snowy mountains near the Tibetan border which were presumed to be the ranges of Dong Mar or Manshail. The skyline to the far north was the land of high plateau where the international boundary is drawn and the winding motor road, which has recently been constructed, crossing the border, was dimly in sight. To the east, we observed a chain of white peaks with the height of 6500 m or higher, which presumably were the peaks of Damodar Himal including Bhrikuti Himal. As soon as the second stage was completed, we started descending to Kagbeni via Gnyala Bhanjyang and the northern villages in Muktinath valley.

On 25 September, the main trek for five days to Lo Manthang began at Kagbeni following the ordinary route; Chhele, Shyangmoche, Ghami, Chharang and Lo Manthang. Most villages en route have old ruins of forts and Buddhist temples, all of which brought to mind the glory of the Kingdom of Mustang and the land of feudal lords. Chharang is a snug town with broad terraced fields extending to the northwest and surrounded by arid treeless hills. The name of the town is familiar to us as the place where Ekai Kawaguchi had stayed for ten months before departing to Tibet via Dolpo. There is a detached palace of Mustang Raja, now devastated, and the monastery where the present king's elder brother, late Chharang Lama, resided for more than twenty years as the highest Lama.

In Lo Manthang, we camped in a garden like area just outside the castled town that was surrounded by poplar trees. We had a chance to interview the king, Jigme Palbar Bista at the palace. We occasionally met the friendly Mustang Raja, 68 years old, who was patrolling the town and his farms. Being based at Lo Manthang, we had two short reconnaissance trips to the northwestern mountains. Firstly, we forded Kimarin Khola and proceeded to a hill (4708 m) on the left bank of Nyamdo Khola. From there, we observed minutely the eastern side of Dong Mar (6337 m), which had been climbed by H.Tichy in 1953. Secondly, we traced the route up Dhangna Khola via Thingar village and made the further reconnaissance of the southeastern side of Dong Mar from a point of 5200 m. Tichy's route was presumably the southeastern rock ridge of the peak. Taththa Jyura Khola, a broad valley in below us would lead to the col on the Tibetan border, which was clearly visible under the deep blue sky of Tibet. The valley also would possibly take us to Manshail peak (6235 m) through a glacier, seemingly easy to climb at nearly 6000 m.

At Lo Manthang, we received an unreasonable and even malicious welcome by ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project). They impeded our activities in the mountains by prohibiting the camping outside of the town, not withstanding that we had proper permits from both, the ministries of Tourism and Home which legally entitled us to conduct an investigative project in any place within the district. The staff of the kingdom and local police were cooperative with us.

However, ACAP staff frightened our Sherpas, saying that they would confiscate our equipment if we ignored their order. This incident caused much embarrassment and disappointment. We had no other choice but to unwillingly avoid further trouble, and so we left Lo Manthang for Lo Gekar where we had planned to set up the second base camp for reconnoitering the new areas of upper Chharang Khola. During our stay at Lo Manthang, we fortunately had a rare chance to observe a splendid scene. We saw thousands of Demoiselle Cranes (Anthropoides viago) migrating to the south over the high Himalayan mountains. From 2 to 5 October, we witnessed their flight every morning in the sky high above Lo Manthang and all over the Upper Kali Gandaki.

On 4 October, the base camp was moved near the Ghar Gompa of Lo Gekar, 9 km southwest of Lo Manthang. Our plan in this area was to directly enter the Chharang Chu (Ghyua Khola) through the gorge near our base camp and to ascend Arnikochuli (6034 m) by the right upper fork of the river. It is shown on the map like a snake raising its head, which connects two lakes at the upper end we found that the direct route to Chharang Chu was impassable since the mouth of the gorge near our base camp was not possible to go cross. On 5 October, carrying packs with four days of supplies, we ascended to the upper plain of Ghar Gompa. We traversed a vast grassland for a while and after crossing a small stream coming from the west, placed the camp just south of the peak 4740 m shown on the new map (LOMANTHAN, Sheet 2983-16). At the campsite (29°7'263''N 83°51'383"E, 4733m by GPS), we had magnificent scenery to the east. To E113 degree, we had a clear view of the gompa and the ruined fort of Chharang in the far distance.

Next day, we ascended a mountain ridge just behind the camp and climbed to a col (5489 m on the new map, 29°07'549''N 83°50'044E'', 5504 m by GPS) where there were two stone cairns. On the way, we followed a small tributary of Dhakmar Khola which flowed down to Ghami. All members including the porters arrived there by noon. A gentle peak of 6154 m was seen in the W268 direction, and a pointed top of 6280 m peak was seen to W290 behind the near by southern ridge of 5932 m peak. Then we took the route on to the above mountain ridge to the north, up the broad valley fully covered with shale similar to roofing tiles. We had to walk a long way to get to the west col of 6010 m peak (29 08 465N 83 48 777E, 5987m by GPS).

From there, I advanced alone down to the northern Ghyun khola side of the ridge, where I looked down at two beautiful small lakes. One was shining in bright turquoise and the other in pure milky white, both in a vivid contrast with the surrounding desert. At first glance I thought of establishing a high camp beside the lakes and to stay for a few days in order to climb a couple of peaks and to carry out the survey around there as the place seemed to ensure comfort. However, my hopes were shattered in a moment. When I looked back, our porters were still walking along Dhakmar khola and I was unable to force them to follow the way in late afternoon. I had to descend from the col and joined the band of porters to place a high camp at a point of 5581 m of Dhakmar khola. I sent back the porters to the lower camp. The next day I decided to climb 6280 m peak that was seen to W290 from the col.

On 7 October, we marched up the stream for a while and reached a small glacier at 5720 m. It came down from the peaks 6081 m and 6154m to the southwest. The snout of the glacier was easily traversed to take a route to Dhau Dhundhun tal, a glacier lake shown on the new map at the height of 5905 m. The lake is not so deep but quite clear, and the surface reflects the deep blue of the Tibetan sky. After lunch, we carefully climbed a crumbling rock ridge to the western side of the lake. The route led us to a point just beneath the south snow face of the peak 6280 m. We climbed 100 m of the snow face in five pitches. We changed our course slightly to the left and two pitches later, we were on the summit ridge with a snow cornice to the north. A few minutes later, all of us stood atop the summit.

The climbing route was moderate and needed no special climbing techniques. The nearest peak 0.5 km distant from there to the north is shown on the new map as peak 6229 m. The height of our peak was not known but we estimate the height as 6280 m, which is endorsed by eye measurement (about 50 m higher than the 6229 m peak), reading of contours on the new map (29°08'41''N 83°46'56''E, 6280 m) and our GPS measurement (29°08'422''N 83°46'956''E, 6357 m).

We descended via the eastern ridge to the col, which I had traced on the previous day. On the following day we took a rest at the high camp and returned to the base camp of Lo Gekar on 9 October.

Summary: The first ascent of Nameless Peak (6280 m, 29°08'41''N, 83°46'56''E) and a short survey around Mustang to the northwest.

Members: Tamotsu Ohnishi (leader), S.Yoshinaga, K. Mizutani, T. Yanagihara, K. Asahi, B. Nishihara, N. Mizutani, T.Inoue, and Ang Purba (Sirdar) with three climbing Sherpas.

 

 

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5. LHOTSE SOUTH FACE IN WINTER

OSAMU TANABE

Dear Mr. Otsuka
Thanks very, very much for sending me a copy of the first Japanese Alpine News. Its contents are of great interest and the maps and pictures are excellent. Your teams are involved in many exciting ascents. I am particularly interested by the announcement that a Japanese team is planning an attack on the great South Face of Lhotse during the coming winter. Be sure to report to me about the results!!

Very sincerely yours,
Bradford Washburn

October 15, 2001

THIS REPORT IS DIRECTED FIRST to Bradford Washburn, born in Boston in 1910, the most famous and distinguished mountaineer in USA, and then to the many climbers abroad that have been paying the keenest attention to the result of our bold challenge, although it was not successful.

JAC Tokai Section accomplished a remarkable ascent to open a new route from the west ridge to the west face of K2 in 1997. What would be most appropriate for the next target? It didn't take much time for us to come up with an answer. There was no other choice than the first winter ascent of the formidable south face of Lhotse, which remains one of the last problems to be tackled among the Himalayan giants. To take advantage of good and stable weather, the assault needed to be a speedy climb in the shortest possible period. The party was organized with eight members.

Ski descent on Shivling.

Note 6 (E. Ratouis)
61. Ski descent on Shivling.

Ski descent on Shivling.

Note 6 (E. Ratouis)
62. Ski descent on Shivling.

Ski descent on Shivling.

Note 6 (E. Ratouis)
62. Ski descent on Shivling.

Tirsuli West base camp.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
64. Tirsuli West base camp.

Pk. 6635 m, point of return.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
65. Pk. 6635 m, point of return.

Planned route of attempt on Tirsuli West.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
66. Planned route of attempt on Tirsuli West.

Unexplored peaks west of Tirsuli West BC.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
67. Unexplored peaks west of Tirsuli West BC.

200 m high serac in gully between Tirsuli West (left) and Hardeol.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
68. 200 m high serac in gully between Tirsuli West (left) and Hardeol.

In the fall of 2001, we conducted training for acclimatisation to high altitude in the Himalaya. Seven members climbed the normal route of Cho Oyu. Six members stood atop the summit on 9 and 11 October in succession. Hideji Nazuka, the strongest member, climbed Dhaulagiri I on 11 October but suffered from serious frostbite that forced him to abandon his participation in the Lhotse climb. Two other members also got sick. Therefore potential members were reduced to only five climbers.

The expedition party departed from Kathmandu on 9 November and established BC (5200 m) at the foot of the awesome, overwhelming south face of Lhotse on the 14th. The following is an extract from my diary in which I recorded details of the climb up until the time when we were forced to retreat.

On 19 November we commenced to pave the climbing route of the lower part of the wall. On the 23rd we reached a point of 6400 m where C1 would have been set up, but as the place was too exposed to the danger of falling rocks and ice, we decided to pitch C1 at 5900 m. We had Sherpas who were engaged to carry gear and supplies to C1 till the 28th.

We expected to push our climbing route to a point of 6400 m, first following a Himalayan fluted steep slope to the left and then climbing up an ice-snow wall to the right. Here too, however, there was a serious danger of falling rocks. We changed the route to that taken by the Yugoslavians in 1981.

Now winter arrived. On 1 December we set up C1. We negotiated a difficult rock band of about 150 m above C1 that led to a snow ridge of distinctive shape. The narrow part between 6400 m and 6600 m was particularly exposed to the danger of falling rocks. During route preparation work three members suffered bruises. To avoid falling rocks, we left C1 at 4:00 a.m. for route paving. Custom-made down jackets protected us well from the cold. Later on Sherpas carried gear and supplies from C1 to C2, starting from C1 at 1:00 a.m.

We followed the Yugoslavian route without deviation and set up C2 at 7100 m on the 6th. The Himalayan fluted slope was cut and leveled for the camp.

On the 8th, the designated 'A' party of Ohtani, Hanatani and two Sherpas extended the route to a point about 30 m above the snow col of 7350 m where the Yugoslavian party positioned their C4. On the 11th, the 'B' party of Tanabe, Miyoshi and two Sherpas overcame the critical part, which is analogous to the 'throat' of the south face, and reached a large snow slope. Three sets of wire-ladders that Yugoslavian party had abandoned still remained on the rock wall en route. The ladders told us how hard they had struggled.

Fine weather had lasted since we had set up BC but on 15 December, snow clouds veiled Lhotse south face for the first time and we had snow fall at BC. Therefore 'A' party was ordered to descend from C2 down to BC.

It was on the 18th that 'B' party resumed the route paving upward. As it was bitterly cold at C2, we had to wait for sunshine before moving out of the tent. Such a situation made progress very slow and we could open the route only up to a point of 7600 m on the 18th. Ultimately, as a result, 7600 m became the highest point we reached; that is just below the Yellow Band crossing the south face. The large slope above the 'throat' was incessantly under attack from falling rocks. Tanabe was bruised while descending.

Ferocious winter winds, which were what we had most feared, started to blow on 19 December. 'B' party set out for route paving against strong winds, but we were unable to proceed. While the winds were getting fiercer on the 20th, we ascended to the 'throat', but a terrific gale wouldn't allow us to progress further. Now our members were so exhausted that we knew we no longer had the strength to attempt a further push for the final assault. Without hesitation we decided to retreat. We returned to BC on the 22nd.

Our attempt was unsuccessful, but we learned many things on the winter climb. I was convinced that winter is not a bad season to climb the south face of Lhotse and that a well-organised team of the strongest climbers would possibly scale it in winter in a swift attack of eighteen days.

We shall return and challenge again in December 2003.

(Editor's note: Osamu Tanabe joined the expeditions of the first winter ascent of Everest Southwest Face in 1991-1993.)

Summary: Winter attempt on south face of Lhotse, October, 2001, by a Japanese team.

Members: leader: Osamu Tanabe, dy. leader, Masamiki Takine, Kazuo Tobita, Manabu Miyoshi, Mikio Suzuki, Hisao Ohtani and Yasyhiro Hanatani.

Brief climbing chronicle of Lhotse south face —

1981 spring — Yugoslavia: reached 8150 m.

1984 spring — Czechoslovakia: the first ascent of South Face of Lhotse Shar (8398 m).

1985 autumn — Poland 1st team: reached 8200 m. 1987 autumn - Poland 2nd team: reached 8300 m.

1989 spring — International party led by R. Messner: reached 7200 m 1989 autumn - Poland 3rd team: reached 8300 m, Kukuczka died.

1989 winter — Christof Profit: reached 7300 m.

1990 spring — Tomo Cesen: the first ascent by solo climb (controversial).

1990 autumn — Soviet Union: the second ascent by a new route. 2001 winter - Japan JAC Tokai: reached 7600 m.

 

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6. FIRST SKI DESCENT OF SHIVLING

Translated from French by Tasneem Telia

EMMANUEL RATOUIS

IT COULD HAVE HAPPENED 7 years ago. It should have happened ast year when I made an attempt and reached higher than 6000 m. One can say it waited for the first ski descent of Shivling. At the same time the advantage was that it couldn't have been better. After all it's not everyday that one can ski a god's abode.

This mountain is situated little above the source of the Ganga, which is a sacred place for the Hindus. It is really fascinating because it is a perfect pyramid which has earned it the nickname of 'Matterborn of the Himalaya'. It's a little bit of this as well as its famous base camp which had motivated me at the outset.

And motivation is necessary for dragging on to the top in mixed ground which leads to the summit.

After 3 days of effort, yet if there is tension, then the decent can only be pleasurable!

I skied down by a route close to the west arete. That began by 400 m slopes oscillating between 45 and 50 degrees of hard snow and ice. To clear a slope I had to assure myself at about every 50 m after the first 300 m of the arete. In this part the snow compelled me to flirt my ski tips regularly with the cornices dominating the 1500 m of the east of the mountain. Next a ledge rather welcoming for the legs leads to the grand serac on the west face. After another 80 m of descent I got to a delicate mixed ground at 50 degrees. There were underlying rocks 150 m from Camp 2 at 5950 m. After a nights rest I refound the descent of last year. The first 500 m of large slopes were in tough snow at 50 degrees, then 45 degrees in the line of sight with the incredible east face of Meru. Spectacular atmosphere under the immense serac of Shivling. Then 100 m at 55 degrees in powder snow, in order to arrive at panoramic perch of Camp 1. From here another 400 m of difference in height between 45 and 50 degrees in the exposed couloirs. After an interminable traverse I left the skis after half hour on the easygoing moraine. Then ten-minute walk on the relaxing meadow of Tapovan to base camp.

While laying down my skis in front of my tent in Tapovan, I passed by a silent Baba, who to get closer to the gods vowed not to speak for 7 years. He is the only one to live here year on full these heights. He knows everything about the things we choose to ignore. He gives me a little signal with his hand. I choose to take it as an encouragement and to reply with a smile.

Thank you to Jean-Claude Razel and Severin Marchand for having accepted to share with me these moments of the great blue sky!

Members: Emmanuel Ratouis (leader), Severin Marchand, Jean-Claude Razel, Pedro Wernaeck.

Summary: First ski descent of Shivling in May 2001.

Photos 61-62-63

 

 

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7. GERMAN TIRSULI SOUTH WALL EXPEDITION, 2001

RALF MESSBACHER

THE TIRSULI MASSIF IS LOCATED 22 km north of Nanda Devi in the Garhwal Himalaya in India. Together with Dunagiri (7066m) and Hardeol (7151 m), it is one of the highest peaks in the region. Although there have been several attempts, the western summit of Tirsuli, the Tirsuli II or Tirsuli West was unclimbed when we left.

In 1939, an expedition from Poland tried the Tirsuli main peak (7074 m) with no success. Additionally an Indian pre-Everest expedition could not climb Tirsuli.

Roger Payne and Julie Anne tried to ascend Tirsuli West via the west ridge in 1995. In that same year, the Tirsuli West was the focus of a small two-man team from Britain and New Zealand, which tried the direct south wall of Tirsuli West.

The Changabang north face was climbed successfully by a British team, lead by Roger Payne, in 1997. The west ridge of Hardeol (7151 m) was attempted by a British team in 1999. In 2001, two new attempts on Tirsuli West were made, both of which failed: the British north wall expedition by Colin Knowles and the south wall expedition of the German Alpine Club (DAV) by Ralf Messbacher.

The objectives of our nine man team were the documentation and the exploration of the southern approaches to the summit of Tirsuli West and the first ascent of the Tirsuli West peak, 7035 m. The preparation for the trip started in 2000.

Ascent
(Bernhard Voss)

A long period of bad weather was over. On 26 May, I made my way from BC to C2 which was established on 19 May nearly on the top of Snow Dome, an easily climbed mountain of 5860 m.

From here it is another 1.5 km climb along the ridge to reach C3 (6150 m). The ridge becomes increasingly narrower and steeper towards P 6635 m, which was declared as our first target, when we decided upon the west ridge.

After the first night in C3, I felt a little weak. Daniel and Peter had already set off for the 'Notch' (Roger Payne, 1995) and P 6635 m. I stayed there till long after breakfast, but eventually I got up. I got myself ready to go, but I took some pictures first. Then I followed the other two in their tracks.

First there was a flat and short walk across the wide ridge, then a slope of approx. 45° / 70 m to the top of the 'Serac-Ramp' (Payne, 1995), 6250 m. From there I could see the others, fiddling about the narrow arete that leads to the Notch.

On the one side, where we went, the ridge slopes down 50-60° into the left glacier basin below the south face. On the other side, it is considerably steeper and goes down about 2000 m into 'Silent Valley' (Payne, 1995). Here and there, the surface is pure ice rather than snow, and there are short vertical steps, presumably from former cornices. In the direction of the 'Notch', the snow becomes softer and sticks less reliably to the ground.

Just before the actual Notch, a gendarme rises. There I caught up with Daniel, who was belaying Peter. He was already further to the right on an easy ledge of snow and rock past the gendarme and out of sight. His comments did not sound very enthusiastic: retreat, he gave us a report.

Then Daniel and I examined this spot. First came a traverse past the gendarme, which goes slightly downwards. The gendarme consisted of very, very crumbly limestone. One could crumble it into sand just with one's fingers. Behind the gendarme, the ledge ends, the ridge became extremely exposed, and the rock was incredibly loose. The walls went down vertically into the depths. On the other side of the Notch, a vertical to overhanging rocky step started, that merged after 10 m into very steep mixed terrain. Then there were alternate sections of steep and presumably loose rock with steep snow fields. The 10 to 20 m to the other side of the notch did not look very inviting. To surmount them, we had to take a great risk, because of the terribly loose rock.

Whether we could have placed a protection on the other side remains doubtful. The difficulties with the continuation of the route are probably grade VI (UIAA) in some sections and would have to be done with aid climbing. Despite the immediate availability of equipment, we stopped there. The belay was made of two ice screws in thin and rotten ice, 15 to 20 m away from the Notch. Even bad protection placements are not possible. For this reason, even if we had been able to descend down into the Notch, the way back would have been uncertain.

We had to look at other alternatives to capture the Notch. To abseil down from the gendarme (we were on the right-hand side of it) was ruled out because of the loose rock. To pass it on the left-hand side didn't seem possible either. The snowfields become vertical and there the rock was extremely poor, too. There was no way to fix a reliable piece of protection.

One alternative was to abseil in front of the gendarme about 200 to 300 m into the steep (70 to 80°) snow, and then traverse towards the western ridge of P 6635 m. This option was not enticing either because of the long distance and the question about the way back.

We decided to turn back. The ascent to P 6635 m looked very questionable anyway. It seems to be hard and exposed and if the condition of rock and ice didn't change, it would be impossible to put reliable protection placements. And how could one create a belay there?

On the top of the 'Serac Ramp' we reached Ralf and Amit by radio, who had just arrived in C3 with fresh loads of food. We asked them to wait and meet at C3. After a detailed description of the terrain, we decided to give up the projected ascent via the west-ridge on 29 May.

Towards noon, snowfall started. Ralf and Amit (our LO) descended to C2 in dense snowfall and mist. Snow fell all night long. After getting up, we discovered that during the night more than 40 cm of fresh snow had fallen. That made the way back to C2 difficult. Visibility was absolutely nil. After a substantial breakfast, we packed the two tents, the entire climbing equipment, and the rest of the food. With heavy rucksacks, we set off. Since we were on a razor-sharp ridge, we had to find the correct points where we had to step to the side. The former track was completely snowed in.

At the beginning of the flat section, we had to choose: either down to the right with an avalanche or to the left with a cornice. Fatefully, the cornice changed its orientation right in the middle of the way without any visible clues. Then we came to the steeper sections.

First down a 40°-slope, then about a 10 m high step of loose rock covered with snow. After this, there where further passages of ice, up to 50 to 60° steep. Then, we went along the ridge without loosing altitude. Finally, after two easy passages, and we stepped out of the difficult terrain.

Now it was my turn to make the track to C2. Some easy pitches of only few meters take a lot of energy. Again and again we step next to the hidden track or a step broke off. It stopped snowing and the visibility improved. We arrived at C2 staggering, where Ralf welcomed us with tea. Resting, we ate the rest of the smoked meat.

Eventually, we descended to C1 and ABC, packed with even fuller rucksacks. Every spot of snow was used to slide down on the seat of our trousers.

BC Base Camp, 4560 m
ABC Advanced Base Camp, 4980 m
C1 Camp 1, 5480 m
C2 Camp 2, 5800 m
C3 Camp 3, 6150 m

 

Results and Recommendations for future expeditions Tirsuli West1:

Our route (Notch): no further comment necessary - as described in the report.

Icicle Valley: steep flank with seracs to the col beneath Gorur Forked Peak (6267 m, 2 in panorama), but the ridge looked snowy and seemed to be rather flat from the col up to P 6635. Should I ever return to this mountain, I would try this way first.

Footnote

  1. See article in this volume regarding the first ascent of Tirsuli West.

 

South face:

Various routes. A direct route to the Tirsuli Western summit ridge does not seem worth recommending. The thin snow does not look very stable. An approach along the left-hand side basin below this face is not convenient. A classic expedition strategy with a chain of camps is not at all advisable. Only a very fit, and therefore, fast team could succeed. Acquire good acclimatisation somewhere else and then move to the desired route and climb it.

Further to the east, the southwest ridge and the adjoining face rejected an attempt by an expedition in 1999, mainly due to rockfall. Besides avalanches from the threatening serac between Tirsuli West and Hardeol above the basin on the right-hand side could strike a camp. Probably, the route with the best chances to succeed and reach the top of Tirsuli West is via the plateau southeast of it. But who would traverse past the main peak of Tirsuli or — even crazier — climb it and then descend to ascend the minor peak?

View from C2: Tirsuli West on left.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
69. View from C2: Tirsuli West on left.

Peak 6635 m near Tirsuli West : View from C2 and attempt via west ridge.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
70. Peak 6635 m near Tirsuli West : View from C2 and attempt via west ridge.

Peak 6635 m near Tirsuli West : Route to C3 and west ridge.

Note 7 (Ralf Messbacher)
71. Peak 6635 m near Tirsuli West : Route to C3 and west ridge.

Pass between upper Chiring and Drermdug glaciers. Midegos group on right.

Note 18 (Luis Soriano)
72. Pass between upper Chiring and Drermdug glaciers. Midegos group on right.

Nobande Sobande glacier from Midegos group.

Note 18 (Luis Soriano)
73. Nobande Sobande glacier from Midegos group.

A new route of attempt on Bhagirathi IV.

Note 10 (Walter Holzler)
74. A new route of attempt on Bhagirathi IV.

South of Bagini Bank, Base Camp region:

The type of rock north of Bagini Bank is totally different from the one south of it. The sediment rock — a variation of slate — changes into granite two third of the way when traversing to the south of Bagini Bank.

The valley below Purvi Dunagiri hasn't been explored so far. North of this valley is a more inviting one. That valley is below the unnamed points P 5666 and P 6068, nearly opposite our BC. From the northern side of Bagani Bank it seems as if there was a fine ramp leading up to P 6068, but it's nothing more than snow sticking loosely to precipitous granite slabs. P 5666 on the northern edge of this valley has two major couloirs leading up to the summit ridge. The first ends at 5300 with a rock wall. It is 10 to 20 m high and not very difficult to climb (3 or 4 UIAA). After this, there's a snow slope with no probable further obstacles. The second is steeper, but it looks as if there are no walls of rock or ice that must be climbed.

A lower peak northwest of P 5666 could offer fine rock climbs on an approx. 300 m cliff rising from Bagini Bank.

Summary: The unclimbed2 Tirsuli West (7035 m) is located in the Garhwal Himalaya. After a two day journey from Delhi, our nine-man team arrived at Joshimath on 3 May 2001, 50 km from the Indo-Tibet border. From there we went by jeep via rough roads 60 km further to Juma. After a two day approach with 74 porters and two tons of equipment, we reached base camp on 5 May at 4560 m.

We spent the following days with short acclimatisation and exploration trips, high above the rock-covered and wildly torn Bagani glacier which is 15 km long.

Footnote

  1. The first ascent of Tirsuli West was made later in the same year, 2001. See article in the present volume.

 

The target, Tirsuli West (7035 m), was still 5 pathless kms up the glacier. For logistic support, we set up an advanced base camp (ABC) on 11 May, at 4950 m.

From ABC we could inspect the south wall of Tirsuli West. Continuous avalanches of ice and snow powder that fell from the 1700m walls surrounding base camp indicated that cautious selection of campsites was necessary.

We decided to try the west ridge route since the approach to the south wall was threatened by ice avalanches and blocked by a badly torn glacier.

Continuous snowfall in May increased the risk of avalanches on the steep south-wall. We erected Camp 1 on 13 May at 5480 m, Camp 2 at 5880 m one day later. Proceeding towards the west ridge, we came across a sharp arete of rock and hard snow. Across this we transported all the material for Camp 3 which was established on 26 May at 6150 m after a period of bad weather.

As a result of a further exploration by the three man team (Peter Enz, Daniel Grammel and Bernhard Voss), further advance to P 6635 seemed to be too risky. Technical difficulties, bad rock quality, and the unstable weather situation made us return at 6270 m.

Due to and careful planning and preparation, the expedition members were in good health and spirits throughout. On our way back, we medically treated about 20 inhabitants and several porters in the remote village of Dunagiri.

Fold-out 7, Panorama F, Photos 64 to 71

 

 

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8. NANDA KOT SOUTH FACE

SHYAMAL SARKAR

IT WAS THE THIRD VENTURE of our Parvat Abhiyatri Sangha to Nanda Kot (6861 m) the mighty Himalayan giant. The first venture was in the year 1991 from the Lwan valley to the north using the Gori Ganga valley. The second one in 1999 was to the south side from the Kafni valley. This route was explored by an Indo-British party earlier in 1987 but they could not proceed further as the icefall of the lower Kafni glacier was impassable. Later, a British team, led by Martin Moran, climbed the peak for the first time from the south. From the north, the peak was scaled earlier both by Indian and foreign teams. The three earlier attempts were successful in scaling the peak by the NE ridge, of which one in 1959 was an Indian venture.

In 1999, we were beaten back from Nanda Kot by bad weather with a consolation prize of climbing Nanda Bhannar (6236 m). As usual this time we established our BC at the 'O' point of Pindari glacier on 18 September, 2001 (3800 m). ABC was pitched on 21 September at 4350 m. With all members except the two remaining in the BC, C1 (was established at 4900 m on 23 September on Chhanguch glacier. From C1 we proceeded first towards south then turned towards east. Crossing a rock zone, we reached to the south slope of Kafni col. The team had to fix seven ropes to reach Kafni col. The west side of Kafni col was snow covered, while the eastern side was rocky. Crossing the col they stepped down to the Kafni glacier and avoiding a good number of wide crevasses moved to the east of the glacier, near to the Danu Dhura col to pitch the C2 at the base of Laspa Dhura (5913 m). Five members came to occupy C1 on 27 September 2001. Three members Kalyan, Tarun, Rajib with three Sherpas Lakpa, Gylzen, Tashi occupied the C2 they had to fix four ropes to reach Danu Dhura col and then traversing the col, they moved further north and reached middle of upper Kafni ice-fall. Thereafter, they had to fix five more ropes for their further movement towards C3, C2 was pitched on 27 September at 5400 m. But they could occupy C3 only on 3 October 2001, because of the difficulty of the route. Two members Prosenjit Samanta and Rupjou Dewan came to occupy C2 on 3 October. They pitched C3 (5900 m) on the east-face of Nanda Bhannar (6236 m) on a saddle like space. The camp was surrounded by huge number of open and hidden crevasses.

On 5 October, the wind velocity diminished but there were huge clouds on the Milam glacier side. The Sherpas went out to fix rope towards our route to C4. From our past experience, we realised that the route from C3 to summit would be too long and it would be extremely difficult too, at the last stage of the face, where the gradient seemed to be at least 60 to 65 degrees.

It became cloudy all around at about 11.30 a.m. and at about 1.00 p.m. it started snowing followed by a blizzard. So the team had to come back to C3. Next day Rajib, Kalyan and Tarun with three Sherpas Lakpa, Tashi and Gyalzen moved towards west and further towards the northern slope of Nanda Bhannar, turning to north to reach near the icefall of the Nanda Kot south face. The place was full of crevasses. Bypassing the crevasses they reached the eastern side of the icefall and then through the west slope of the icefall. They climbed about 80 m to reach the site of C4 (6250 m).

A team of six, three members, Kalyan Deb, Rajib Mondal, Tarun Das and three Sherpas Lakpa, Tashi and Gyalzen stayed at C4 to move further for the summit.

The team left the tents at 3.00 a.m. on 6 October but had to return back to C4 because of fierce wind and low visibility. They started again at 5.00 a.m. There were two wide crevasses on the face immediately after leaving so, we had to fix rope right from the beginning. They chose the right (east) hand side of the face. Because of the wide crevasses straight movement could not be possible. They had to push up only by zig zagging the ice fall and face route.

Rajib Mondal Writes:

Crossing two crevasse lines we reached the middle section of the face. The weather was clear since we started our movement and the speed of the wind was not very much. The gradient of the face route was nearly 60 to 70 degrees mostly of hard ice, occasionally there were small rock patches.

It was nearly 6.00 p.m. and we fixed the 50 m rope. Sun was behind Nanda Khat, Panwali Dwar and it became dark all around. We were in a fix and on a point of no return. Still 150 m up to reach the summit and the thought of going down below does not arise with this darkness through the treacherous route of the face and the icefall. We then started to search out a patch of rock with bulge out projection for our shelter in the night, knowing fully well this would be dangerous proposition in the open sky and at this altitude.

The Sherpas wanted to go down even amidst darkness. They were convinced somehow, explaining the danger of the route in the darkness. From that point the leader was contacted through walkie-talkie at the ABC.

At last, the night was over and the morning sun rays greeted us. But, our bad time were not over as the Sherpas declined to move up towards summit. They were eager to go down. With much persuasion they agreed and at about 7 a.m. we started moving up towards summit. Passing 4 more fixed ropes, we reached summit at 10.50 a.m. There was cloud on the south and on the east but the overall weather was clear. We had excellent views.

That was 8 October and even on that day we could not go down to C4. Another night had to be passed in open. We came down to the end of one fixed rope within darkness and could not find out the other fixed rope. It was almost 6.30 p.m. and we were covered by a dark misty weather. In the meanwhile, Sherpa Tashi, without the help of any fixed rope, started descending and paid no need to our call. One more night was passed sitting on the rucksack and putting an anchor on a climbing rope, embracing each other in the hope of warmth. There was no wind even that night. Our food and drink was only ice. In the morning at about 6.30 a.m. we started going down and after rappelling down two ropes found our fixed ropes on the face. At 9.40 a.m. we reached C4. We were greeted there by Sherpa Tashi., who on the previous night was lucky to find the fixed rope and reached the C4 at 12.30 a.m. He had no match stick with him, for that reason could not prepare any hot drinks.

At C3 we discovered that with continuous walking for two days without removing shoes Kalyan and Tarun complained of pain in the toes with preliminary sign of frost bite. Later, Rajib had frostbite in the fingers. They were taken down to ABC and then via Haldwani to Delhi and later flown to Kolkata, where the two victims Rajib and Kalyan had to have their toes amputated.

Members:

Shyamal Sarkar (leader), Kalyan Deb (deputy leader), Tarun Das, Rajib Mondal, Prosenjit Samanta, Ishanjit Dutta, Samitava Karar, Liton Debnath, Debraj Dutta, Rupjoy Dewan, Indranil Chatterjee, Kamal Addya.

Summary: Second ascent of south face of Nanda Kot (6861 m), by team from West Bengal. The summit was reached on 7 October, 2001.

Fold-out 8

 

 

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9. NILKANTH, 2001

MARKO PREZELJ

THE INDIAN HIMALAYA offers alpinists unique challenges. Some very photogenic summits like Shivling and Thalay Sagar are visited by many expeditions each year, however, there are still plenty goals of interest from the alpinist view in the north of India, which are known to experts only. These mountain peaks are discovered slowly some due to infamous reputation and some due to bureaucratic obstacles. The British, who are most connected with this area through their colonial heritage, have a leading role in this field. Arwa, Changabang, Kishtwar, Rimo and other interesting objectives are the result of systematic discovery and exploration of individual mountain chains.

The 6596 m high Nilkanth had only three successful ascents before we visited it and several unsuccessful attempts from various directions. According to the available information, the south face of the mountain was the most interesting for climbing; from here the third ascent to the top along the west ridge was completed in spring 2000 by Martin Mo ran's guided expedition.

We wanted to climb either the south or southwest face. Judging from the only photo we had, we assumed the climbing would have an interesting mixed character (rock, snow and ice).

After formalities at IMF (as the last expedition of the season) and purchased food, we left Delhi rather quickly. Despite the short time period, unfamiliarity with the area and the first contact with the Indian bureaucracy, we reached BC (4050 m) after only three days of walking. We hired 20 porters (each carrying 20 — 25 kg) to carry food and equipment for a one-month stay at BC.

We put up the base camp and started acclimatising. The conditions were in contrast with our expectations based on the only photo we had from this side; there was very little snow. The weather was unstable most of the time — clear in the morning, cloudy in the afternoon (each time some snow fell on the mountain). We decided to do the second (and last) acclimatisation ascent on the W ridge, which offered an appropriate height and the most probable descent route in case we finally ascended across the SW face.

We pitched ABC (5100 m) below the SW face and began to go up the W ridge from there on 13 October. The climbing conditions were not easy. On the initial slope we encountered many big stones and granite blocks, threatening to move due to lack of snow and ice. Climbing in the lower part of the ridge turned out to be much more demanding than we expected, again due to the lack of ice and a thin layer of fresh snow on the rocks. At the beginning we found some unreliable fixed ropes, which we didn't use. At about 5600 m we arranged an uncomfortable bivouac and continued to climb the next day. Around noon we reached the upper, icy part of the ridge where we climbed to the top in very unstable weather but with a lot of personal motivation (and luck). The ridge was in the highest part burdened with huge ice cornices, sometimes cracked upto 50 m deep into the slope. Shortly before the summit, the ridge was very sharp. From the summit, which we reached at around 2 p.m., we descended to the rocky part of the ridge partly by using the "Abalakov technique", partly by climbing down. Hampered by brittleness, fresh snow on the rocks and darkness, we rappelled over the whole exposed rocky part to the bivouac. After another night in the uncomfortable bivouac, we descended all the way to BC on the same day. During almost thousand metres of abseiling, falling rocks damaged our 70-metre rope so badly that we reached the bottom of the face with only fifty metres of rope left.

On 20 October, after four days of rest, we left for ABC to ascend the SW face - our main goal. Approaching the face, we were exposed to larger quantities of falling ice and rocks because of high temperatures. When we arrived at our small tent under the face we were surprised to see that snow and ice bands connecting the individual parts of the face, had melted. The logical passages were exposed to falling rocks and water. We carefully considered the option of a risky and enforced search for some shelter (across the steep sections less exposed to falling rocks) and decided to descend. The weather confirmed our decision the next day, as the whole face was again covered with the fresh thin snow blanket.

We prepared to climb a different type of terrain, but the only alternative was risky rock climbing in an illogical line (exposed to falling ice and rocks), where one would have to use climbing shoes and different equipment and strategy from what we had.

Considering possibilities and fast organisation, the expedition was successful. We did the second ascent of the west ridge in pure alpine style and at the same time the fourth (expedition) ascent to the top of the 6596m high Nilkanth, which has turned down several attempts. It took us 3 days to climb and descend a 1500m high route (twice we bivouacked at the same spot). The first climbers (who needed 6 days for ascent and descent respectively) estimated the route D+/TD-, in the rock IV+ (UIAA) at most, mix Scottish II to III (Source: The American Alpine Journal 2001, page 369). We generally agree with the first estimate, although the general impression about this complex climbing (given circumstances) was entirely on the side of TD. The conditions required that we climbed with crampons on plastic boots all the time.

We became acquainted with the area and organisational features of the Indian Himalaya, where the Slovenians have not been that active as in the neighbouring Nepal. We are ready to share our experience with anyone that might be interested in the activities in this part of the world.

Expedition members:

Marko Prezelj, (leader), Matic Jost and Dr. Zare Guzej.

Chronology:

6 October: By road to Josimath – Hanumann Chatti – Khirao – camping on approach to BC at 2800 m altitude

7 October: Khirao – camping at 3450m.

8 October: Camping – base camp at 4050m alt. at the moraine of Panpatia Bank glacier

9 October: Crossing of glacier and acclimatisation ascent to 4850m on the opposite side of the glacier – view of the S face

10 October: Ascent to 4850 m below the SW face and carrying of some equipment

11 October: Rest in BC

12 October: Base camp – ABC 5100m (collect the transported goods)

13 October: ABC – ascent along W ridge – bivouac 5600m

14 October: Bivouac – summit around 2 PM – bivouac

15 October: Bivouac – ABC – BC End of expedition to Nilkanth.

Summary : Alpine style ascent of Nilkanth (6596m) in Garhwal Himalaya, October 2001

 

 

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10. BHAGIRATHI

Mountain without mercy

WALTER HOLZLER

THE TEMPERATURE IN NEW DELHI is nearly at 50 degrees, it is unbearably scorching. The heat and the stubbornness of the government officials are tearing our nerves. It takes a while until the customs are cleared and we are allowed to continue with our material.

In a shabby bus we head to our aim high up in the mountains: even though Bhagirathi III is one of the smaller mountains in the Himalaya, with 6454 m, its west face is spectacular. It is limited by two fascinating pillars on the left and on the right hand side of 1600 m height. The right pillar has never been climbed before on a direct route from the bottom of the west face. The team, Robert Jasper, Jochen Schmoll, Rainer Treppte and Walter Hoizer planned to discover a way exactly over this pillar in the free climbing style. From the pilgrim village Gangotri we advanced to the base camp on the meadows of Nandanvan plateau, but unfortunately our motivation is impeded by strong diarrhoea. Today we know that we should have just eaten our own food on the way from Delhi to the base camp in Garhwal if we cared for our health.

The conditions at the face are perfect. There is hardly any snow at the pillar and the weather treats us friendly. During the day the temperature rises up to 20 degrees in the base camp whereas at night it is below freezing point. We build a high camp at the bottom of thewest face. Robert and Rainer discover a convenient route to enter the pillar. The first pitches are a great pleasure: with our rock climbing shoes we climb freely high up and fasten the fixropes without any problems. Getting forward is easier now.

Suddenly the weather changes. It snows down to 4500 m and a thunderstorm nearly blows us away from our route. As of the extreme difference in temperature the water/snow in the cracks freezes to ice. The higher we get the more often we have to replace our rock climbing shoes by crampons. Under these conditions we are only able to manage a distance of about two pitches per day. The even passages of the pillar are covered by 15 cm of fresh-fallen snow and in the evenings we are regularly confronted with thunderstorms. Continuous retreats from the face take our strength and our encouragement away. But after several attempts we reach the actual ridge which orientates itself southwards. Now we hope to continue faster because there is less snow. At a height of 5600 m we install a hanging bivouac: underneath us there is nothing but air, above us there is the menacing vertical pillar. Robert and Jochen suffer from strong cough cramps and need to get back to the base camp immediately. Although the weather is not improving Rainer and I try to get further up to the top. Under these conditions it is impossible for us to continue in the free climbing style. Hence we have to fasten eight further pitches with fixropes at the ridge of the face. Now we try to continue in the alpine style. Only about two or three pitches are between us and the head of the pillar — which meant easy terrain, but the weather turns even worse. The risk is too high to be stuck in this inferno of ice and snow. We decide to withdraw. Otherwise we would have risked health and even life. Struggling with snow, flashlight and thunder we need two further days to clean the route. But there is one thing comforting us: the weather is not supposed to be better in the following days, so the decision to retreat was the only sensible one. We could not reach our aim to get to the peak on the direct southwest pillar route in the free. climbing style. Driving back to the heat of Delhi we know that this farewell is not forever. We will definitely come back to finish our challenging route to the peak of 'The goddess of heaven's stream'.

Summary: An attempt on Bhagirathi III (6454 m) by a new route by a German team.

Photo 74

 

 

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11. ASCENT OF SAMAR LUNGPA PEAK

DALJEET SINGH

THE LEH INDO TIBETAN BORDER Police successfully organised an expedition to Samar Lungpa peak (6230 m) during August-September 2000. This was a majestic unclimbed peak in the area of Samar Lungpa, Ladakh, on the international boundary under the jurisdiction of the Indo Tibet Border Police (lTBP). The aim of the expedition was improve mountaineering skills of ITBP personnel, to introduce this sport to youngsters in the force and also to reinforce presence and control of ITBP in the border area. The peak lies to the east of the famous Karakoram Pass and is situated on the ridge going northeast from the Karakoram Pass, making it the northern-most point in India.

Despite the fact that most members were new to mountaineering and therefore' inexperienced, 18 members reached the summit of this previously unclimbed peak.

After organising logistic support and being provided with special clothing used in the Siachen glacier area by the Illdian army the team started on 15 August 2000. They had assembled at Daulat Beg Oldi, (DBO) on the Karakoram route, having trekked there across Saser la. The route ahead to Be was a gradual ascent with crossings of several streams. The team established base camp on the banks of Raki nala, which was flowing from the watershed on the international boundary.

Initially it was quite cloudy but later it became windy and started to snow. Despite cloudy weather on 31 August, the team proceeded to C1 (5640 m), using three ropes with four men on each. They moved along Raki nala, reaching Samar Lungpa up to GR-442923 where C1 was established. At this point the. team was only 500 m away from the international border. It was a long climb and (Ook over eight hours to cover a distance of about 10 km.

1 September was to be summit day but they could not proceed as a result of bad weather. On the next day, the team decided to make an attempt from Cl to the summit. Initially the climb was undulating and full of boulders but after about a kilometre, it became steep and difficult to negotiate. Hard snow conditions forced the team to fix ropes. Climbers were beginning to feel the effects of altitude but continued along the fixed ropes. At 0915 hrs, the team hoisted the Indian Tricolor flag and the ITBP Force Flag atop the peak.

The weather turned nasty and so the team had to descend with utmost care but they brought all equipment down with them. Of a total of 25 members, 18 successfully climbed the peak on 02 September 2000.

Summary: Ascent of Samar Lungpa Peak (6230 m), on 2 September 2000.

Area: Samar Lungpa, northeast of Karakoram Pass, Ladakh

Team: Sub Inspectors of ITBP Force, Leh.

 

 

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12. RAMJAK

Lt. Col. S. UPADHYAY

RAMJAK (6318 m) is situated in Lahaul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh on a very well known trek, crossing over Shingo la to Zanskar. The peak lies south of Shingo la and is outstanding for its beauty and inaccessibility, which has made it technically one of the most difficult peaks. Not many expeditions have attempted the peak earlier and probably only three expeditions had tried to scale the peak so far. Indian Mountaineering Foundation selected this peak for attempt during the month of August 2001.

Move to Chikka Road Head

The team left New Delhi for Manali or 01 Aug 2001. Finally everything was tied up and we took our loads in a tractor hired from Darcha. The team moved to Chikka, the last village and also the roadhead. We stayed there for the night in a local School as our mules were supposed to reach on 05 Aug. The village Chikka had lot of pea cultivation so we also bought some fresh peas for our expedition.

Move to BC

On 05 Aug 2001 we started our journey towards Be. The first days trek to Palamo was beautiful, gradual and along the Jankar river. Palamo is approx 3 km from Chikka. After 2 km we had to cross a river on small wooden bridge where there was a small temple. We reached Pal am a (3600 m) at around 1600 h. There were many foreigners in the area. In the evening after having tea we went up to see the peak Ramjak which can be seen from the hill slope after climbing for half an hour. The peak looked fabulous with flat top and the two ridges visible were fully corniced.

From Palamo we started our next day's trek for Junkar Sumdo. This trek is beautiful with patches of pea crops giving a greener look. Just short of Junkar Sumdo there was a big stream, which does have any bridge and one had to cross barefooted. The water was extremely cold and turbulent. Finally we reached Jankar Sumdo (3910 m) at 1700 h. The place is very well sited on the river bed of Jankar river. An extremely beautiful surrounding with Ramjak, looking over us. There is a small tea shop at this place also, and they charge Rs. 30/- for camping. It is a better maintained place. On 7 Aug we packed up our stuff and got ready for the final journey to Be. We left Jankar Sumdo at around 0830 h. We had to cross over a bridge constructed by mule owners on the river 3-4 years back. As we were crossing over the river two mules entered the gigantic river and were literally washed away like paper boats. Everyone of us watched helplessly and prayed for a miracle. Fortunately both of them were pushed to the other bank by the current and we heaVed a sigh of relief. We continued our trek and it was a steep climb further towards our Be. After 4 hours of trek we reached our Be.

Shifting of BC

In the evening Arvind and I went a for recce around the place to find a possible route as per the map but to our surprise there was no possibility to find a route from any side. After doing a detailed study of the map we decided to shift our BC to a place short of Chuminakpo from where the contours on the map showed a gradual and feasible climb. Fortunately our Mule contractor Tashi was still there and we requested him to shift camp. On 08 Aug we packed up again to move to our new location and established the BC at the height of 4620 m.

Reece and Establishment of C1 (4880 m)

On 09 Aug the weather was very bad and it was rammg heavily. We were lucky to have good weather in the afternoon and all of us went for recce ahead. We climbed tht! steep slope just ahead of our base camp. Once we reached the top of the slope Ramjak was clearly visible at the end of the valley closed by a rocky wall which led to the peak. Ramjak despite its relatively modest altitude by Himalayan standards, is a mountain with formidable defences. We stayed at that place for half an hour taking photographs and then descended to Be. We planned to occupy camp with four members i.e. self, Rajiv, Arvind and Umesh and the other members along with HAPs were to ferry loads for further progress. On 10 Aug weather was bad and we had to wait till 1130 h before the weather cleared and then we moved to C1 as per our schedule. We had selected our C1 location just besides the glacial stream running down from the glacier in the near vicinity. The camp site was good and there was plenty of space for pitching the tents.

Route Opening of C2

On 11 Aug, it was raining again and four of us were forced inside the tents. We were trying to recoup and wait for good weather in the afternoon. We were lucky to have sunshine in the afternoon and we started route opening of C2. We had already made our loads and packed up ropes, rock pitons, carabineers and flags for route marking besides emergency rations. We left the camp at around 1130 hand moved towards the rock wall along the glacier keeping it on our left. It was all climbing and finally we reached the glacier full of crevasses, where we decided to rope up. Ultimately we reached the rock wall which was full of lose rocks. We found our way but lot of loose stones were hurtling down the gully and unfortunately we had not carried our helmets so we decided to abandon further progress and we returned back to our camp. We spoke to Kalyan on our walkie-talkie and told him to come up next day along with other members with more food, helmets and technical equipment and HAP's to support us.

On 12 Aug, the weather was very good so other members reached our location at around 0930 h. Unfortunately Umesh was not feeling well and had nausea and vomiting. We decided to leave him and three of us went ahead. We left CI at 1130 h and reached the rockwall and started fixing the ropes in the gully. It was difficult to find the place to put pitons as there were too many loose rocks but fixing was done by Rajiv and Arvind and approximately 400 m ropes were fixed. Thereafter the slope was gradual and we moved on our own on the slope. Finally at around 1730 h we reached the highest point on the rock wall i.e. the ridge line leading to the summit of "Ramjak". We were able to reach upto 5800 m on the ridge line as per the map. It was a fabulous sight to see the majestic peak. The route is a generous mix of hanging glacier, coupled with steep rock bands and precariously resting snow fields. It is further compounded by overhanging unstable seracs and cornices hanging menacingly from the broken ridge lines, which is heavily prone to frequent bergfalls and incredible ice and snow avalanches. From the ridge we could see the peak 6015 m and down the ridge another peak 5720 m. The glacier on the other side was massive and full of crevasses. We took photographs and moved around to find a possible route for further progress but the difficulties were too many. There was no hope of making any headway. We decided to come back and give chance to the team waiting at Cl to find any possibility. We reached C1 at 2030 h and discussed the next day's plans. On 13 Aug the weather was very good and six members i.e. Kalyan, Bijan, Umesh, Biswajit, Shripad and Ajay left camp at 0900 h. They reached yesterdays spot at 1330 h and were also deterred by the terrain. We left three ropes along with rock pitons and carabineers which could not be taken out due to safety reasons. We woundup (1 and left to BC on the same day.

Members: Lt Col S Upadhyay (leader), Kalyan-Deb (deputy leader), Arvind Bisht, Bijan Dey, Rajiv Katoch, Umesh Raina, Biwajit Sen,Ajay Arora, Shripad G Sapkal.

Summary: Attempt on Ramjak (6318 m) August 2001. The attempt on the unsealed peak failed due to technical obstacles.

 

 

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13. NEVERSEEN TOWER

Miyar Valley, Lahaul

XAVI LLONGUERAS I ORRIOLS

September 1999

WE LEFT MANALI on 9 September to the north across the V V Rohtang pass. After the pass we followed the Chandrabhaga river to the west till the small village named Udaipur. From here we turned right (to the NE) going into the Miyar valley till Karpat.

After three days of trekking, we reached the Italian BC (1992-1996), but we decided to go closer to the Neverseen Tower. Next day we go up to Tawa valley (still with porters), a secondary valley of Miyar to the east. On 13 September, after 8 hours we reached the BC in the Tawa moraine, at 4650 m. It was a desolate BC, difficult to find water, no flat stretch, but only two hours off the Tower.

On 15 September, we installed a tent (C1) in the base of the Tower (5000 m). Two days later Fidel and me, left the C1 at 05.00 hrs, with very heavy backpacks.

At 08.00hrs we were on the base of the couloir, after we go up the west glacier (45°). The West corridor gave access to the south col (5450 m) of Neverseen Tower with an unnamed peak. We climbed the couloir in 6 hours. Climbing the first pitch in the center of the couloir, after the belay we crossed to the right till the south col in four pitches (250 m, 5 pitch, V-70°).

The south col is a narrow pass, with only 30 cms of dusty place to pitch a tent. ·We· built a platform close to the south face, and we slept there.

Next day, 18 September was cloudy and cold. Fidel did climb one pitch in the south face (45 m, 6a-A2), the weather was near stormy. We decided to go down, and come back some days later. We didn't fixed ropes. Next day, in the BC there was 25 cms of snow. In retrospect we took a good decision!

We spent two days of forced relaxation due to the snow in the Be. On 21 September with Enric, we climbed an unnamed peak at the end of Tawa glacier (5700m).

On 23 September Fidel and me did try other attempt, but we were tired and not in good condition, also we didn't have enough time, on 25 September the porters come to BC as decided.

We left the BC on 25 September and on 28° we reached Manali.

September 2001.

Members: Fidel Casablancas and Xavi Llongueras.

Attempt: 15 September, 2001 by Fidel Casablancas and Xavi Llongueras on the south face.

We let Manali on 19 September. Actually it was possible to reach Changu by bus, and there is a new part in construction till Chaling not ready yet.

The 2001 autumn was really cold. Not normal in the area. On 23 September we reached the same BC of 1999 (4650 m). After four days, we had all the equipment at the base of the Tower, where we had the Cl in 1999. It then snowed for two days.

The conditions of the couloir had changed a lot from 1999. There wasn't snow, the belay stances from 1999, were three meters up from us and impossible to reach. To climb the couloir was harder than 1999. This time we spent five days to climb the couloir.

The first pitch is in the left side of the ice corridor. We attack a group of big rocks with some easy cracks.

The rock was broken, the cracks were covered with dust and was difficult to put belay points. The climb was not really difficult, but was exposed (Y, 65°). We did fixed ropes in the couloir in the new belay stances in the left side of the route.

On 9 October, we had all the equipment in the small col (5450 m), and the equipped the couloir. Next day we were going with the intention of climbing the Tower but a storm got us in the middle of the climb. We headed back to Be.

After three days of continuous snowing, the sun decided to shine again. On 14 October we climbed again directly to the col. We slept there in a hammock, but· the night was terribly cold, —25°e. Next day Fidel climbed the same pitch as the one in 1999 (6a-A2), in very bad conditions caused by the cold atmosphere, snow in the edges and the cold problems in his fingers. He headed back to the col and we slept there again. This second night was terrible again, and next morning our hands and feet were frozen. We decided go down.

On 17 October we left the BC, and went back to Changu and by public bus we reached Udaipur. Next day we reached Manali.

Summary: Altitude: c 5980.

Area: Miyar valley (Lahaul, Indian Himalaya).

First Attempt: Italian team led by Paolo Vitali. (August 1991).

First Ascent: Italian team led by Marchegiani. (1992).
This is the report about our expeditions in 1999 and 2001,

Members: Enric Nadal, Fidel Casablancas and Xavi Llongueras.

Attempt: 17 September, 1999. By Fidel Casablancas and Xavi Llongueras.

Face: west, south ridge.

Frontispiece

 

 

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14. EXPLORATION IN KUBER GLACIER

ANINDYA MUKHERJEE

Our aim was to explore the less known plateau of Kuber glacier and evaluate possibilities of new high altitude trek routes in the area.

Kuber glacier is located to the east of Badrinath in the district of Joshimath (Uttaranchal). The coordinates of Kuber are 300 45’ N, and 790 31’ E. It is 3 kms. in length and 700 m. wide. The height of its snout is 4008 m. The most dominant peak of Kuber is Nar Parbat (5855 m.). The glacier is located at 790 33’ 30” E and 330 44’ 50” N. to the west of Nar Parbat. Kuber Glacier stretches from east to west. There is another interesting peak on the south west ridge originating from Nar Parbat. l This is the Sky Peak, climbed and christened by the famous ‘Ocean To Sky’ expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary in 1978.

History of Kuber

In 1978, after the Jet Boat part of the famous Ocean to Sky expedition was over, the team trekked their way on to Hemkund and Valley Of Flowers, before attempting Narayan Parbat.

They could not climb Narayan and instead attempted its companion Nar Parbat. Here another misfortune awaited them. Sir Hillary fell seriously ill with pulmonary edema at Camp 1 (17600 ft.) Two helicopters of Indian Air Force flew on an evacuation mission the same day. But their attempts to land were foiled by bad weather. Luckily the weather relented and Ed was flown to Mana and then further to Bareilly. Three members, Peter Hillary, Murray Jones and Graeme Dingle finally climbed an unnamed peak (19,200 ft), which they symbolically named as ‘Sky’. They sprinkled Ganga water on the top of the peak.

We were the second team in Kuber and the first Indian team in the area. We were certainly thrilled to follow such famous footsteps.

The Journey

I started from Kolkata on 27 May, 2001, reaching Joshimath on 29 May. Balbir Burphel of Joshimath joined me there and we moved to Malari by jeep. We trekked to Gamsali village on the same day. On 31st Balbir and me entered the Amrit Ganga valley.

The Trek

On 31 May 2001 Balbir and myself moved west from Gamsali. After worshipping at the Temple of Dani,we crossed the Amrit Ganga river and thereafter followed it’s true right bank. We intended to cross the famous Bhuinder Kanta but did not follow the traditional track that follows through Thaur Udiyar and Eri Udiyar. We trekked beyond the vicinity of Thaur Udiyar and camped on the right lateral moraine SSE of the legendary Kakbhushandi Peak (5830 m.). Next morning we had a grand view of Nilgiri Parbat (6474 m.) to our west.

On 1 June, we moved south and entered the sanctum sanctorum of Rataban (6166 m.). Rataban north face was standing with all its grandeur. In this small valley, two glaciers join hands (one from B. Khal and one from Rataban ) and move north to join the main flow of Bankund Glacier . That day we camped below B Khal. It was a memorable night with high velocity wind funneling down from the pass. On 2 June , we moved west. Ours was going to be the earliest crossing of B. Khal of the year as most of the crossing generally takes place in July to October. We negotiated a steep ice slope and after a long traverse reached the top of the pass. Its altitude is 5090 m. We had a good view of Ghori Parbat (6708 m.) and Rataban from the pass to the Bhuinder Valley side. The descent to Tipra Glacier side was through treacherous snow slops involving long traverses and steep descent. Finally, we camped at Dhara Kharak. This name is given by ‘Bakriwalas’ as numerous waterfalls surround the camping ground. The enormous icefall coming from the south face of Rataban was the backdrop of our campsite. 3 June, was a cloudy day. We started early and traversed the Tipra Glacier to SW and soon climbed up its right lateral moraine and entered the Valley of Flowers. We passed Chakulthela, Tipra Kharak and walked on the bed of Bhuindhar Ganga. Then after crossing Bamni Dhaur we reached Ghanghria and started down the valley to reachthe bus head of Gobind Ghat by late afternoon. By 06.00 PM we reached Joshimath. Thus the first part of our exploration trek was over.

Quest for Kuber

On 4 June, Balbir and me reached Badrinath and Joined the Kuber Glacier exploration team. It was a day of reunion and rest. We arranged for 3 LAPs took care of the last minute shopping, and went for a recce. We talked to bakriwalas and villagers of Mana. According to the map, the Kuber Glacier is located directly east of Badrinath. We agreed on a direct approach from Badri.

Trek to Base Camp

On 6 June, we moved direct east from Badri and moved up the grassy spur. The going was tough due to a steep gradient. There was no track or trail. In most of the places we literally had to climb using the grass bunches as hand and foot holds. After 4 hours of strenuous but rewarding scrambling we reached our Transit Camp. Our T. C. was a beautiful, green, level patch of ground among vertical surroundings. It rained during the night but the next day dawned fine. We woke up under the ever watchful eyes of Nilkanth (6595 m.). Urvashi and Narayanpeaks looked like it’s two arms. After breakfast, we climbed eastwards. Very soon, we faced steep icy remains of winter snow on the upper part of the slope. We cut steps and fixed rope on the ice slope for the safe passage of the team. Then we moved a little to the north and climbed up a dangerously loose boulder zone. Then again took to the east. Dense fog was interrupting our progress intermittently. After 5 hours of toil we saw the icefall of Kuber Glacier. A suitable site was found for making our Base Camp. The icefall was to our north. To our east was a 600 ice slope with four intermittent rock bands. To reach the upper plateau of Kuber we have to negotiate this very wall. To our SE was a rocky peak of 4319 m.

Beyond Base Camp

On 8 June, myself, Abbas and Balbir put our climbing boots on and started climbing the wall. Ice axes became a burden on the rock step. Very soon we were rock climbing with crampons on. We were relieved to see last of the rock bands. Then after steep climbing on hard ice, we reached a decent slope that led to the plateau. Clouds were closing in on us and we cut a shelf on the slope and pitched a tent. A mild drizzle of powder snow continued for the rest of the day.

On 9 June, the entire Kuber plateau was blanketed by heavy mist. It was impossible to find our route on the plateau. Still we pressed on with the aid of a compass towards east. We climbed three humpsbut the curtain of mist showed no sign of improvement. Over the top of the third hump we waited for a long and frustrating hour but then gave up hope and went back to the camp. Around 3.30 PM blue sky appeared in the east. Balbir and myself went for a recce. This time we moved a little to the SE. After climbing two humps a fine, shapely, snow peak appeared on the far end of Kuber plateau. At the very first sight we recognized the peak. It was the Sky Peak 5853 m. (19,200 ft.). To its NE was “Nar Parvat (5855 m.). From Nar another ridge emanated towards west. On this ridge was a distinct Col. To climb Nar Parbat one would have to cross this Col from Kuber plateau and attempt from its Northern side. This might have required two more camps from our present point. So we turned our focus on Sky Peak. Between Sky and Nar Parvat lies a Col that theoretically leads to the Khunt Khal area. But the Col was wearing a jacket of crevasses and a dangerous icefall guarded its descent. So we cancelled any probability of that route. However happy with our recce, Balbir and I returned to camp.

Ascent of Sky Peak

On June 10, Abbas, Balbir and myself started climbing the humps and within an hour reached the roof of Kuber plateau. We roped up and gained the NE ridge of “SKY PEAK”. As soon as we reached the ridge a great view was waiting for us. We could now see Nanda Devi, Changabang, Kalanka, Dunagiri, Bethartoli Himal, Trisul and Ghori Parbat stretching from east to SE. We then turned south and started climbing the ridge. We climbed a 600 wall and gained the north shoulder of Sky. The summit ridge was sharp and beautiful. Carefully we negotiated the last steps and reached the summit of Sky at 08:00 AM. We were happy and proud to be the first Indians on top of Sky. We did ‘puja’ on the summit and took photographs.. Our eastern side was dominated by the Nanda Devi group and the same peaks were seen from the lower ridge. To our south west was the Vishnugarh Dhar of the Khir Ganga Valley. Nilkantha was seen on 2650 W, Chowkhamba - 2700 W, Narayan - 2800 WNW, Balakun – 2750 WNW, Satopanth – 3000 NW, Bangneu Area – 3200 NNW, Nar Parbat – 400 NE and Kamet on 150 NNE. We retraced our steps back to camp. We packed our tent and moved back to B C The descent to B C was really treacherous. We climbed down cautiously and reached BC safely around noon.
The next day, we cleared BC and went down towards Badrinath. It was an endless descent. We made Badri by 2 PM.

Team: Anindya Mukherjee(Leader), Sk. Abbasuddin, Akash Parial, Diganta Roy Chowdhury, Subrata Bhattacharya and Balbir Burphel (HAS).

Summary : Exploration in Kuber Glacier – June-2001.

 

 

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15. CHITTAPANI

MOHD. AMIN

DECIDING ON WHERE TO GO for an expedition in J & K state can be vexing. The various constraints and conditions imposed by staggering logistic and financial hurdles. coupled with disturbances, required major planning.

This year we choose Chittapani peak (5280 m) in Kashmir Himalaya as our objective. Though some of the most celebrated. most remarkable expeditions in the history of mountaineering in J&K have taken place in Num Kun from Pannikhar side, mountain climbers were slow to arrive here. The scarcity of mountaineering expeditions in Wardwan valley in general and Madav in particular is not due to lack or impressive mountains but the isolated and inhospitable nature of the region. Besides, tourist facilities in this area are extremely scarce.'

A 50-km drive up gut-wrenching twists and turns through graceful willows and stately poplars brings you to Gauran. a beautiful place with tiny hotels providing shelter for the night.

Ascending steadily and passing gradually out of the cultivated part of the village with its bright fields and apple orchards, we came to a dense jungle replete with bromeliads, lush vines and creepers, entwining and strangling massive tall trees and squalls and trills of numerous exotic birds well hidden in the dense foliage.

As the forest opens out at higher altitude, there are small valleys like Zaj Nai, Nauak, Tsernag where melting snow provide water and grass to the grazers.

The Margan pass (4470 m) to be negotiated now, may not be so high but it is by no means the least stirring. The last portion or" 150 m consists of boulders, loose shale, sand and is very steep and treacherous. We found some specimens of Pleuros Permum, Allardiu Glabra, Cordalis in blue and yellow. Dreaded as 'Margan' - the death pass, many have perished here in the past. Even in August, it witnessed snow fall. Lightening changes in weather are common on the top.

On the Margan top potentillas, sedum and geranium peer from under lichen encrusted rocks. Scores of other flowers defy the arid desert and freezing cold adding colour to breathtaking vistas. It is better to stay on the higher slopes as though the walk may be little strenuous, the panoramic view makes it worthwhile. Very striking were the views of the Nun & Kun (7087/7135 m) peaks.

From the top, a phalanx of the highest peaks in the Zanskar range could be seen just across.

Heavy clouds had been collecting for a day or two and the air was sultry and heavy as lead, Towards 2.30 p.m. thunder came crashing from every side in a continuous roar and vivid lightning flashed without a break. At last sheets of rain came driving down as if they would wash us off the mountain side. Tarig, Showkat and I took shelter in gujar doka till it stopped raining.

A glowing sensation came over us as we pushed rapidly down the pass, first through outlying birches, and then into thick pine forests. The air became wonderfully warmer as we descended and with more oxygen life became easier. In torch light at about 9.00 p.m. deadly tired, feet bruised and sore we reached Inshin FRH.

The following morning tired from the previous day's efforts, we were not ready to go at lower altitudes until 10.30 a.m, We moved our camp to across the river Wardwan and lodged in irrigation hut situated in the village. We decided to rest till noon as we were completely exhausted and needed all our remaining strength and will power to proceed ahead. We chatted with several villagers including Master Gh. Hasan - a prominent person in the area. Our wonderful time in the valley and friendships with local people and their culture made this journey an unforgettable experience.

Inshin is a valley at 2500 m above seal level and is surrounded by green hills and lush, unspoilt forests. It is idyllic, remote, thinly populated by economically primitive people. Their customs, myths, conventions, beliefs totens and taboos are wurth studying. An easy approach to forest makes the construction of houses an easy affair. They are usually constructed from woud planks, roofs with greysingles and with wide overhanging eaves. It is presumed that due to the existence of numerous stratified rocks in the valley of Wardwon,there is considerable mineral wealth like mica, nickel, sulphur, rockcrystals, felspar and graphite hidden underground. Chemical analysis of soil would reveal the textural composition. Silica gives weathering resistant material to soil. Advanced studies in soil genesis, when taken up, may reveal many useful facts. Here vegetation is rich; buck-wheat, peas, butch-wheat, beans, barley are cultivated as these products do not require very fertile soil.

In the afternoon we moved the camp. The path goes towards the left shore of the big broad, strong flowing Ward won river coming from Bhotkol glaciers. On the way, picturesque villages of Drasbal, Mulla Wardwon and Bot with chalet-like construction were scattered along the river. In Mulla Wardwan, houses go back more than 300 years!

The mountain-sides everywhere were covered with pine forests. Pines grew even out of steep cliffs on any little projecting piece of rock and magnificent waterfalls fell from mountain heights. Since the entire route to Madav passes through thickly wooded forests, its cool salubrious climate helps trekkers enjoy the scenic beauty and the mountain grandeur of the area.

We reached Sarkand, a halting place midway, where the odd teashop caters for refreshments and even provides shelter for the night. Here Nazir the tea shop-keeper, arranged FRH. By night it was chilly due to rain, we convinced the chowkidar to light a little fire. A restful sleep took away our fatigue and we were up and about early for a trek to Madav.

Left Sarkand at 10 a.m. The path goes towards the left side of the river, then towards right after crossing the suspension bridge at Puma Kadal. The pine wood is a veritable show piece with its unspoilt, undulating terrain and tiny meandering hills. The Impalianste Royles. Achhillium, milufolium and rich diversity of exotic flowers, colourful birds and glamorous butterflies are common. We reached Yordu at dusk.

Next morning we purchased some essential food items and medicines in the bazaar and arranged another ponyman for our onward journey through kind efforts of Ahad-uula Sheikh whose house we had stayed the night before. It is a pleasure to meet a man like him. What surprised me most about him was his geniality and warmth. We thanked him for the help he had given us. We bade him and his family salaam arid left for our objective.

After passing through hamlets of Ritser, Anyar. Sudan and Zaban; six hours of rough going led us to Tatawoin (Hot Springs) at 3 p.m. We camped and bathed in the hot sulphur springs. Some families were also here to bathe in these springs to get rid of rheumatism and various skin diseases. These hot sulphur springs are famous for great healing powers.

The route from Tatawoin to BC is one of the wildest and most rugged. The river ran at the bottom of the gorge and rocky precipitous mountains culminating in lofty snowy peaks rose on either side. It is a place for those who love nature untouched and clear.

The morning after we set up BC at the height of 4500 m we put hand to rock and were soon making steady progress up the preposterously steep wall, leaving a line of ropes in place for regaining the high point. The ascent on the wall was only severe on account of the difficulty in breathing. It was snow all the way. It took us six hrs to reach the top trudging through the soft snow one soon becomes out of breath. Then came the shock. There was no easy snow-slope down the far side. There was an almost sheer drop. Getting down the precipice looked worse than crossing the ice-slope. Altaf did not mind the rocks as much as the ice and he proceeded to lead the way down discarding the rope. The dreadful part was that we had to let ourselves down step by step on the rocks which were by no means secure. Two more stages of the ice slope were descended in a similar way, letting ourselves down on to protruding rocks. The slope became easy enough for us to get down without cutting steps the whole way. At last by dusk, we descended back to Be. Satisfaction in all its intensity was on us as with the light of the setting sun I took long look at Chittapani and thought of the dangers we had passed and the victory that was ours. Cocooned against the cold the members welcomed the sun's return after a sleepless shivering night.

On 19 July we struck our tents and made our return by Dolwas pass (4330 m). There, in the wilderness, we found a whole new world; that of the bakerwalas (herdsmen) with their fascinating age-old culture and the magnificent landscape in which they live. Wild animals like ibex, burhel and musk-deer inhabit this area.

Next morning we crossed Hokasar pass (4299 m). The snowy peaks stretch for nearly a couple of hundred kilometers as an eternal backdrop heightening the fascination of many a celebrated Himalayan valley from Kashmir to Himachal Pradesh.

On 22 July, the start was sluggish and cold. The pack animals took a lower path to avoid boulders. After a long and exhausting trudge over the loose scree and shale of the terminal moraine, we reached Daksum at 5 p.m., dehydrated. Next day we arranged a bus for Sri nagar. With this our enjoyable expedition came to an end, leaving us with many pleasant memories and experiences.

Members: Showkat Hussain (Ldr), Mohd Amin (DL), Mohd Altaf, Md. Hanief Jan, Tariq Ah. Kachroo and Chamak Singh.

Summary: Successful ascent of Chittapani peak (5280 m).

 

 

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16. CLIMB OF STOK KANGRI AND GULAP KANGRI

Lt. Col. P. P. DAVIS

AT THE HEAD OF THE STOCK TOPKO VALLEY to the south of Leh, lay a knot of peaks averaging 5800 m, the highest being Stok Kangri. Many of these peaks are unnamed and presumably unclimbed. Beyond the line of peaks to the south lay the Markha valley. Treks and climbs can be undertaken in the area from June to September. Leh can meet all logistic requirements for treks and climbs in the area including porters, ponies and equipment on hire.

A team consisting of fifteen members from 107 Air Defence Regiment (SM) led by Lt Col Davis PP set out from the Stok village, Leh on 27 June 2001 to climb Stok Kangri (20,083 ft/6121 m) and Gulap Kangri (19,750 ft/5940 m). The team trekked along the Stok topko and established base camp approximately 5 km ahead of the confluence of Chortenchan topko and Stok topko. A trek to base camp was undertaken over two days to aid acclimatisation.

From BC, the peaks of Stok Kangri, Gulap Kangri and Point 5985 (unnamed) can be climbed. The routes to the summits beyond the base camp are different for the three peaks. On the Stok Kangri axis, an advance camp is required to be established to enable summit attempt. Other two peaks can be climbed directly from the BC depending on the climbers fitness, skill and snow conditions.

Ascent of Stok Kangri

On 29 June 2001, the team crossed the ridge to the west of the BC and entered the adjacent valley which led to the base of Stok Kangri. Cl was established at 5500 m at the base of the east face of Stok Kangri. On the next day the summit team led by Capt V Ravi left C1 at 0515 hrs. The team took a direct route to the summit up the east face of the peak. The slope leading the summit was laden with deep and soft snow due to the heavy snow fall experienced during the past week. Sluffing activity was observed. Primary difficulties faced were steep gradient and knee deep snow all along during the ascent which was very tiring. The team reached the summit at around 0900 hrs. The summit was marked by a cairn and had numerous prayer flags planted by previous expeditions.

Ascent of Gulap Kangri

Gulap Kangri was climbed direct from BC. The first summit attempt was launched on 01 Jul 2001. A team consisting three members led by Lt Col Davis PP, started from base camp at 0345 h. The route went up the northern spur leading to a heavily corniced false crest. The final slope leading to the false crest was steep with ice formation below thin layer of snow. Three rope lengths were fixed for safety. Beyond the false crest lay a vast snow field which led to the summit of Gulap Kangri. While negotiating the snow field the team went over two humps to reach the actual summit. The summit was reached at 1130 hrs.

Further Summit Attempts

On subsequent days despite fntermittent bad weather resulting in snow, sleet and poor visibility, summit attempts were launched again on both the peaks. A total of eleven climbers scaled Stok Kangri and eight climbers scaled Gulap Kangri during the expedition.

The team wound up BC on 06 July 2001 and reached Leh on the same day. There are numerous peaks and valleys in the area waiting to be explored. Treks and climbs can be undertaken in the area with light logistic' back up. Climbs from the Markha valley approached from the south offer a greater challenge.

Summary: Ascent of Stok Kangri (6121 m,! and Gulap Kangri (5940 m) Leh, Ladakh June-July 2001.

Members: Lt. Col. Davi PP (leader), and 15 members from the 107 Air Defence Regiment.

 

 

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17. RUPSHU REVISITED

DR. SUDIPTI BANERJEA

ON JULY 9, 2001, we were at Korzok again. We reached Mahe bridge from Leh by bus on 7th, followed by a two-day trek on motorable un-metalled track to Korzok, passing Sumdo village, Namshang la (5295 m), Thazangkuru Tso, Taksang nala and innumerable holes of marmots en route.

We remembered our first visit to Karzok on August 2, 1999. R. Bhattacharji’s works¹ encouraged us to visit Rupshu. On July, 18, 1999, we started from Kibber village in Spiti and reached Norbu Sumdo on 28th, crossing Parang La (18370´). Inclement weather had arrested us for 4 days at Thalda. At Norbu Sumdo, we crossed Pare Chu and then Norbu Nala before camping on a small meadow at Swargatha. On 29th morning, we took the old trade route between Himachal and Tibet, passed Dangsar and Kharlung maidans (used as cattle markets during the annual fair) and reached Langzamgnyak village at about 11 a.m. We left for Chumur village and gompha (7 kms north-east of Langzamgnyak) in the afternoon and returned at 8 p.m., the first civilian team to reach Chumur by this route, after Chinese invasion in 1962. On 30th July, we left Langzamgnyak at 9 a.m. and camped beside Ungti Nala on the green meadow of desolate Ungti village at 4 p.m. En route, we crossed a marshy land before our lunch on the shore of Lam Tso, with many colourful birds of various species in and around it. After a rainy day, we crossed Ungti (or Dungri) La (17100΄) on 1st August and reached Kiangdom at 4 p.m. On 2nd, we trekked along the western bank of Tso Moriri, the conventional route, and reached Karzok in the evening. After enjoying Gustar festival, we left Karzok on 5th and reached beside the huge chorten on Pologongka La (16601΄). Pologongka peak was on our north. On 8th noon, we could meet the Sumdo-Debring un-metalled motorable track. On our way, we crossed Kamdar La (16798΄), Larguk (or Nanak) La (17192΄), and Jelung La (16550΄). From Pologongka La we started by jeep, had a glimpse of Startsapuk Tso, followed the eastern shore of Tso Kar, passed through desolate Thugje village and rolled ahead towards Leh.

Since our first visit two years back, apart from some extension of ITBP camp, a few new buildings, and extensive damage to beautiful PWD bungalow near lake, Karzok had changed little. Repair work in Karzok gompha was in full swing before Gustar festival.

One of the purposes of our visit to the Rupshu region this time was crossing Lungser Pass (20462΄) or Chhamser Pass (19685΄), taking off from eastern shore of Tso Moriri, following Lungser Nala, and then reaching eastern side of Lungser-Chhamser Kangri and Lapgo peaks and visiting two lakes, both mentioned as Kyun Tso in Harish Kapadia’s book2, which inspired us. But, in spite of repeated queries, we were told by many changpas, in Karzok and Peldo, that one can certainly climb Lungser or Chhamser Kangri, but as such they have not heard of any pass in that region, which can be crossed for reaching Kyun Tso. That is why local changpas go to Kyun Tso following any one of two routes.

Footnote

  1. Bhattacharji, R., Rupshu, Indian Mountaineer. Spring. 1985. pp. 35-45 & Remote South East Ladakh. The Himalayan Journal, 1984. pp. 82-89.
  2. Kapadia, H., Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram, Indus Publishing Company, New Delhi, 1999, pp 73·86 & p. 217.

 

The other route, following eastern shore of Tso Moriri moves south—southeast upto Chakar fa and descends to Ungti village. Then, after crossing Chhumik Yara la and Kyun la, Kyun Tso could be reached. We decided to follow the second route.

Arrangements for donkeys and guides were made and we started for Peldo at 3 p.m. on 11th. Only near Peldo, we had to leave the unmetalled motorable track and move to our right, i.e., east, and after crossing Taksang nala and Lublung nala (flowing to north of Tso Moriri), we finally reached the southeast corner of Peldo grazing ground. We found 10/12 rabos here and there and some Changpas trimming goat/sheep wool. Peldo is a nice grassy region with Tso Moriri in south. Gya/Shila peaks were visible further south, Mentokpeaks and Rupshu Ice Cap in southwest and barren mountain in north. The eastern side is dominated by Lungser-Chhamser Kangri and Lapgo peaks. Darkness followed and the rabos were lighted by solar power system.

On 12th, we started around 9:15 a.m. and were on northern shore of Tso Moriri within a few minutes, Gradually, we moved toward eastern shore. Before we reached our lunch halt beside Lapgo nala, we found one small lake on our left, with many migratory birds, called Lapgo Jhil by Changpas. After lunch, we moved on a sandy region and crossed Lungun nala there. Some time after nala, a vast plain, called Payadong, with green tinges and skyangs (Tibetan wild ass), was seen. Then we reached beside the Chorten of Fabrang la, only 68 m above the shore, and again climbed about 100 m to Thengmar, a beautiful cliff-like place. It was tiring to walk on sand under scorching sun. A small green patch, called Neukanjik, in the narrow gaps between two mountains came in our view. A small stream, Neukanjik nala, was seen flowing down only to lose its way in the desert before reaching Tso Moriri. Camp was established beside that nala.

It rained on 13th morning and we started at 11 a.m. We moved through a sandy region with ups and downs, crossed Lungser nala and the chorten of Karsikonga la, a low altitude pass like Fabrang la. Gradually, the track moved eastwards. Keeping the lake behind us, we moved straight eastwards. This region, with yellow-coloured mountains, is called Lyemgi. We reached the wide Chakar la at 4:30 p.m., walking through yellow and violet flowers. A very small cross-section of Tso Moriri was seen far behind us. Rain started and we, descending continuously, finally reached desolate Ungti, beside Ungti nala, drenched and exhausted at around 6:30 p.m.

On 14th, after drying our clothes, we moved towards Zarakarmo, the base of Kyun la. After crossing Ungti nala and village and gaining height in a sandy area for 1 hour, we reached Chhumik Yara la. From the pass, we came down to the bank of Ungti nala. After crossing nala twice and a vast boulder zone, we moved upto Zarakarmo, 5 hours from Ungti. Ungti nala, flowing a little below nearby, appeared to be coming from Lungser-Chhamser Kangri peaks region.

On 15th, we started at 8 a.m. under a clear sky. Dry Gnyachak nala was found coming down from east. It was a rocky region but full of little flowers. After a gentle ascent, the steep zigzag track moved up towards east on a ridge, going straight northwards upto the pass with a gentle slope. At II a.m., we reached the chorten of Kyun la from where Pare Chu, beyond Lam Tso — Tegazong region in the south, was seen far below at a distance. Following dry Lamlung nala, we descended continuously for 3 hours upto western shore of Kyun Tso. The region is called Changang. This lake is about 8 km. long and 2-4 km wide. The water being muddy is not fit for even animal consumption. The un-metalled motorable track from Nyoma-Hanle to Chumur was on the other side of the mountain on eastern shore of the lake and there is a pass on southeast of the lake on that track — Salsal la. Weather deteriorated and rain started in the afternoon.

On 16th afternoon, we could start from Tso Farma at around 2 p.m. It was a walk through a vast undulating green called Pangdra, with skyangs moving around leisurely. Apart from Lungser-Chhamser Kangri and Lapgo peaks, two more peaks were visible at a distance in northwest, most probably, Pologongka and Kula. A stream is coming from eastern slope of Chhamser Kangri peak, providing water to Kyun Tso. After crossing that stream, we came across a narrow stream flowing northwards. We assumed that it is flowing to Tso Farma and followed its course. After ½ hour, Tso Farma was seen but that stream was not seen flowing to it. Rather, it is flowing to a very small lake just east of Tso Farma. We crossed that stream easily and came to eastern shore of Tso Farma, a beautiful clear-water lake. A stream coming from eastern slope of Lapgo peak west is providing water to it. The diameter of this almost circular lake is about 5 kms. We came back to our Kyun Tso camp in 3 hours.

On 17th we moved at 8 a.m. straight towards south, keeping the lake on our left. A gentle ascent started after the lake ended. We were heading for Trebuk lao The track turned straight towards north and steepness increased. At about 12 noon, we reached just below the pass, exhausted. We saw both Kyun Tso and Tso Farma for the last time and moved upto pass. Chakar la region in west and LungserChhamser Kangri peaks behind Kyun la in northeast were seen from the pass. Far below, the green Unjung plain was seen where we reached at 3 p.m. We found signs of vehicle movement on sand and we followed that track. Too much sand and wind decreased our speed considerably. After some time, we left the track and moved eastwards towards the green grassy plain of Tegazong and camped beside Ungti nala. Lungser-Chhamser Kangri peaks were found dominating the region, even from a distance, standing in northwest. During the day's trek, we did not come across any spring, stream or any other source of drinking water before Ungti nala at Tegazong.

On 18th morning, we started towards east. A little later, a malli wall came with many horns of yaks on it along with inscriptions from Buddhist scriptures. Just after the wall, a small desolate village, Latok, was seen. Keeping the village behind us, we entered a vast and very undulating marshy land. We were moving from one small mound to another and small streams were flowing in between towards Lam Tso in south. Small trout-like fishes (3-4") were seen in those streams, which changpas called gnya and do not eat. After this marshy land, we entered a desolate village, Rojbuk, smaller than Latok. Then we climbed towards Loam la where we reached at 10:30 a.m. After crossing a vast plain, we got down to Loam marshy-land region, a few kms east of Lam Tso. In this marshy land, some big natural springs have combined to form Loam nala, flowing a few kms towards east to Pare Chu. A little before the confluence, the path for Chumur village moved up towards north. We moved towards Chumur and camped on a small plain, beside Chumur nala, about 150' below Chumur gompa around 2 p.m. Most of the houses of Chumur were desolate. We left for gompa at 4 p.m. and were guided well by the head lama and were allowed to see the mummy of the founder lama, whom the Buddhists in the entire Rupshu region still believe to physically exist amongst them.

On 19th, at 8 a.m., we left Chumur and followed a steep ascent from the back side of gompa till we reached Lamabum la at 10 a.m. Much of the Rupshu region was visible from. While descending, we crossed the wide but dry Lamabum nala. Then we reached Chisupdhi, a vast plain. It is not really a plain and the entire region is rocky. We moved upwards through boulders of different sizes. From south to west and northwest, we saw vast Pare Chu basin (the region we covered to reach Langzamgnyak in 1999), then Gya peak, Parang la, Baralacha region, Mentok peaks, Rupshu Ice Cap, Ungti (Dungri) la, Chakar la, Lungser-Chhamser Kangri and Lapgo peaks, Kyun la, Trebuk la and Salsal region. At last Chisupdhi plain ended and we camped on a small meadow beside Chhimo nala at 6 p.m.

On 20th we left Chhimo nala at 9 a.m. After gentle ascent for 1 hour, we were shown a small green plain (Muba Tongsha) far below on our left (northeast of Tegazong), with a stream Dongan or Dongam nala, flowing through it. As R. Bhattacharji had moved up straight from that area, the ascent to Lenak la had appeared steep to him. But we reached Lenak la at 12:30 p.m. following a gentle ascent crossing Sintrok nala, en route. Then we came Kongra marshy land, following Chamungno nala, and camped near the confluence of Kongra nala and Chamungo nala.
On 21st morning, we left Kongra and reached green Ponguk village (southwest corner of Hante Valley) at about 1:30 p.m. after crossing vast rocky Thungangeri plain. We decided to spend the night at ITBP camp, in northeast corner of Hanle valley, where we could reach only after 5 hours' tiring walk through a marshy land, facing mosquitoes, under scorching sun. The other villages in Hanle valley are Naga, Bhuk, Sadhush and Khaldu. A chomo (Buddhist nun) gompa is at the foot of a hill at Khaldu. The highest observatory in the world is also on the top of that hill. Even Hanle gompa on a hill top was visible from a distance.

On 22nd, we left Hanle Valley by ITBP jeep for Loma and got a truck upto Nyoma from there and reached Leh by bus on 23rd.

Members: Ajay Mondal, Jagat Chandra Bose, Sukhendu Mondal (in 2001 only), and Sudipti Banerjea (Kolkata).

Note: Ajay Mondal has written a book—Maru Paharer Desh Rupshu-Ladakh (in Bengali), Bhraman Sahayak, Howrah, 2002.

Summary: A trek in the Rupshu region of Ladakh in 2001.

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18. A QUIET PLACE IN THE KARAKORAM

LUIS M. LÓPEZ SORIANO

IN THE LAST DAYS OF JULY we arrived in the Karakoram mountains, with a neW plan. We wanted to explore one of the hidden tottlers in this range, along the Pakistan/China border. Also, it Was a quiet place without anothet trekking and expedition groups. We were going to the Upper Chiring/ Drenmang glacier near from Pantnah and Nobande Sobande. Our target was to explore this area and try to reach some unknown summits. Our small team was made up of just four members.

A few days walk by the Panmah glacier, from Askole, in Baltistan mountains, was enough to reach base camp, near Chiring glacier. It was in the same place as the Chiring peak Japanese expedition, in 1988. Two Japanese expeditions were in this area some years ago, climbing the Chiring peak, (7000 m). They were our reference for this area.

Upper Chiring Glacier

Our first objective was to explore a different place, the Upper Chiring glacier. In a few days we set up an ABC on this glacier. From this point we came across a small range of unnamed peaks over 6000 m between upper Chiring and Drenmang glacier, near the Pakistani China border.

From the ABC the route went up a broken icefall, to the bottom of a snow covered twin peak, near the pass. This would be our first target. After a day of ice climbing, we set up C1. on top of the glacier. All members tried to climb the peak the next morning.

The first section was a steep icy slope going directly to a snow ridge. We started early, crossing snowfields, getting rapidly to the upper side. From this point to the summit was n nal'row ice ridge, a little dangerous, urtstable and cut by crevasses. We climbed for a while near the edge. We decided to descend to Cl befote reaching the highest poirtt because the last sections had very bad snow conditions.

Although we didn't reach the main summit, we got an interesting view of the area. Our plan was to go down to base camp, and after resting for a day, try rteW routes on other peaks. But our small team developed serious health problems. Now, three members Were sick and they decided to go down to Skatdu. Thus, 75% of our group was out of the expedition and only 25%, that is me alone, would be going ahead with the programme.

Drenmang Glacier, Alone

Now, completely alone, I took a tent, equipment and food to spend some days out of base camp, following the Nobande Sobande glacier to explore the other side of the range. I would be exploring a remote area on my own. the nearest contact would be the cook and his son, waiting for me at base camp.

I needed one day's walk by the moraine to set up a new ABC, on the Drenmangl Skamri glacier. It is a green and really nice place.

I spent some days walking in this area. From the new C1 would climb a rocky peak over Drenmang glacier, near the Chinese border. Going up on dry ground with some snow fields in the upper side, I reached the summit of this unnamed mountain, around 6000 m, in good weather and with views of a unique landscape. Now I could watch the upper Chiring/Drenmang pass and fle whole range of Panmahl Nobande Sobande mountains. I could also make a general map of the whole range.

After enjoying the summit I went down to C1 to rest. Next day I would go directly to base camp, on the Chiring glacier, now with very bad weather, snowing sometimes. I didn't see anybody during these days, just some big ibex groups. It was a very nice experience.

Midego Group

After resting one day in BC, with the cook and his son, I would try the last climb. Over the base camp, there was a group of dramatic rocky towers. The main summit is named Midego peak, nearly 5900 m.

My plan was to reach, one of the highest summits of the range, directly from the base camp, and go back the same day, a climb and return of nearly 2000 m.

I departed early in the morning, again. alone. After some hours, walking on steep ground, I reached a col. From this place I would climb a mixed terrain, before the last rocky ridge. I had to be careful because there was a risk of stonefall. Getting on the edge of the ridge,the way is safe and it is possible to enjoy scrambling on the blocks. Finally, I reached the summit with a clear sky, after a soft snowfall. After a small rest, with the beautiful Karakoram landscape, I made a fast descent to base camp.

On the next day, porters arrived at our base camp and the expedition was over. After some weeks alone, I met with my friends in Skardu. But few days later, I would go to Hunza, again, by myself, to rest and dream about new expeditions in unknown mountains.

Summary: Explorations in Chiring/ Drenmang glaciers Aug. 2001.

Members: Luis M. Lopez Soriano, Kepa Urmeneta, Aitzol Telleria, Kepa Urmeneta and Felix Goiburu.

Base camp: Chiring glacier — ABC: Upper Chiring glacier — ABC 2: Drenmang glacier.

 

 

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19. YANGRA KANGRI

(The Himalayan Association of Japan)

KINICHI Y AMAMORI

Summit of Yangra Kangri from east ridge.

Note 19 (H. Sato)
75. Summit of Yangra Kangri from east ridge.

Ganesh Rimal V from east ridge.

Note 19 (M. Tamura)
76. Ganesh Rimal V from east ridge.

View from Rama glacier. From left; Pk. 6192 m, Pk. 6245 m and Pk 6074 m

Note 19 (K. Yamamori)
77. View from Rama glacier. From left; Pk. 6192 m, Pk. 6245 m and Pk 6074 m

Lampu Kangri south ridge seen from Rama glacier.

Note 19 (K. Yamamori)
78. Lampu Kangri south ridge seen from Rama glacier.

Puyung (6676 m) see from east ridge of Yangra Kangri. Xixapangma and Langtang Lirung in background.

Note 19 (Y. Ota)
79. Puyung (6676 m) see from east ridge of Yangra Kangri. Xixapangma and Langtang Lirung in background.

Route to Camp 3.

Note 19 (H. Sato)
80. Route to Camp 3.

View from Ma la. From left; Yangra Kangri, Lampu Kangri and Ganesh Rimal II (in Nepal).

Note 19 (M. Tamura)
81. View from Ma la. From left; Yangra Kangri, Lampu Kangri and Ganesh Rimal II (in Nepal).

10 Aug: Unamed peak - upper Chiring glacier (about 6000 m)

Group returned from just below the main summit (Luis M., Aitzol, Felix, Kepa)

14 Aug: Summit, unnamed peak (about 6000 m) - Drenmang glacier, Luis M. L. Soriano

17 Aug: Summit, unnamed peak (about 5900 m) - Midego group, Luis M. L. Soriano.

Photos 72-73

YANGRA KANGRI (7429 m) is the main peak of the range, called "Ganesh Himal" in Nepal, on China/Nepal border. On 24 October 1955, Raymond Lambert (male, Swiss), Claude Kogan (female, French) and another member attacked the peak from south (Nepal) side and succeeded in the first ascent. Since then, nobody had reached the top again.
In 1987, HAJ (The Himalayan Association of Japan) - TMA (The Tibet Mountaineering Association) Joint Expedition had succeeded in scaling Labuche Kang (7367m), located west of Cho Oyu. In the spring 1995, Mr. Cheng Tianliang, Tibetan leader of that expedition, suggested that we plan a joint expedition again in 1997 as a tenth anniversary celebration for our earlier success. He said, "The target is Yangra Kangri." I lost no time in writing to him that HAJ agreed to his suggestion, as the area around that peak had not been opened to foreigners yet. Moreover I requested him that the expedition would also tackle Ratna Chuli (7035m), unclimbed, on the border, at that time. Yangra Kangri was going to be climbed from northern side.

(On 14 October 1996, Nepal Police-Shinshu University Joint Team had succeeded in the first ascent of Ratna Chuli)

The investigative journey in 1996

At the end of September 1996, I flew to Lhasa to join Gaya (45), one of Tibetan members. The northern approach route planned by us was from Tingri through north side of Xixabangma - Ma la (5234 m) via Kyirong Zangbo river (the upper stream of Bhote Kosi river). From the river the route was going to proceed southward about 50 km along the river. On 29 September, we tried to gather information in Kyirong Prefecture but got the unhappy news that there was no road or trail on the north side of Yangra Kangri. We couldn't believe this because the map showed us the possibility of an approach. However, not having enough days, we had to change the route to the one approaching from the south via Sanji glacier. From the prefecture (4127 m) to Kyirong district (2795 m), we had a 75 km-trip by a jeep driving on the road made by the river. In a few hours we were transported from the desert to a very different forested landscape. At 10:00 p.m., some local policemen came to us and took our passports with them. Next day, we visited the border police office. They said, "Don't proceed from here." "Why? We have the permission." "Chinese map isn't correct." After arguing for about an hour, they at last permitted us to go on the condition that" We keep your passport until you come back. Don't take any photographs." Gaya and I hired four porters and left Kyirong district. We descended southward along Kyirong Zanbo river. Many labourers were making a roadway there. After a five-hour walk, we reached the point (2026 m) where we had to cross the river over to the right side riding a bamboo basket hung from one wire rope over the river. From the river, a 20-minute walk upwards on the steep slope led us to a village named Jangzon (2400 m) where we stayed for the night. Next day, we went up through the forest. It began raining at noon, when we reached the point of 3970 m. So we went down to the riverbed (3480 m) and established our camp. Gaya went out for a recce of the route. He reached Lado la (4632 m), which was the entrance to Sanji glacier but he couldn't get any views due to rain. He came back to the tent. Rainy weather continued and prevented us from observing the south face of Yangra Kangri. We could do nothing but go back. Heavy rain broke some parts of the roadway where we had to take upper routes. On 5 October, we came back to Kyirong district.

The investigative journey in 1998

The journey in 1996 had given us an unexpected and valuable present. On our journey, we had seen Himalayan peaks from Ma la (5234 m). Among them, we had found one attractive peak and presumed it to be Kabang peak (6717 m) with our limited information. Therefore I planned an investigation journey for both Kabang peak and the north side of Yangra Kangri in autumn 1998. After the investigation of Kabang peak, 3 members including me reached Ruka on the left side of Kyirong Zangbo river on 26 October. On 27 October, Yosihide Higami and Yasuo Ota ascended along Rama Pu to find the route to the foot of northeast spur. Though they tried to reach Pawu glacier (north side of the peak), they gave up on the way because it was too hard for only two men to proceed among marshes and bushes. But this journey also gave us a lot of information.

The expedition in 2001

On 15 September 2001, the main party of five members including Yamamori left Lhasa for Shekar via Xigatse and Lhaze. On 16 September, we passed Tingri and reached Nyalam, where three other members from Nepal joined us. After acclimatisation, on 18 September, we hired two jeeps and a truck and left Nyalam. We drove through the north side of Xixabangma and Ma la (5234 m), and reached Kyirong Prefecture. On 19 September, we drove southward for 60 km along Kyirong Zangbo river and reached Ruka (3050 m). There were lodging houses for the labourers of the border area and timber mills there for building the road. We stayed there until 23 September finding the route to BC. At first; BC was going to be fixed on Lachang Co (lake). But we couldn't make the climbing trail for the porters, so we established BC (3350 m) in the forest across Lama Phu.

On 24 September, we left Ruka. We hired 51 porters who were villagers of Rama and Xoiboga, on the left side of Rama Pu, and some mill workers. Going through forest and marshes on the left side of the river, crossing the bridge built by our members, we reached BC. After the route settled, we could go up to Lachang Co (4400 m) from Ruka in a day. This means that north approach route is not so long and hard. We established Cion Rachang Co and transported 500 kg of luggage there.

On 30 September, we started climbing. Northeast Spur (the branch of East Ridge) separated into two at around 6100 m and our route was going to be the east (left) one. It took around 2 hours from Cl to the end of the glacier. From there one rocky tower was seen on left-upper direction. We climbed the snow face, passing around the right side of the tower, and reached the upper area of the face. From there we sawthe rocky wall in the shape of glasses. On 9 October, we established C2 (5350 m) below the glass-like walls.

The route became difficult from C2. After climbing 2 pitches on the glass-like walls, we ascended on the snow ridge and reached the point where the ridge was very sharp. Passing it and crossing one valley, we climbed the snow ridge again and reac~ed the bottom of the icefall. We climbed the icefall and reached the plateau above. On 18 October, C3 (6000 m) was established on the plateau which was safe from avalanche attacks.

From C3, the route directly went up to east ridge on the huge snow face that had many c~evasses running here and there and large steps. We had a problem of a shortage of fixed rop~s and snow bars, so we had to collect ropes that had been fixed in the lower parts for extending the route. The wind became cold and strong near east ridge on the border. On 22 October, we decided the C4 site under east ridge.

Climbing Route of Yangra Kangri North Side

Climbing Route of Yangra Kangri North Side

But the support party was late, so we gave up scaling the top then. On 24 October, C4 (6860 m) was established under East Ridge and four members stayed there. On 26 October, members climbed on east ridge towards the top without ropes and pitons. At 6900 m they gave up the attempt.
Though we couldn't succeed in making the second ascent of Yangra Kangri by a new route, all of us were satisfied with our expedition. We a middle-aged team, had succeeded in climbing a height of 2500 min the high altitude area from Cl to the point of 6900 m by ourselves without HAP.

Team:

Kinichi Yamamori (57) leader
Yoshihide Higami(57) deputy leader
Hideki Sato (53) climbing leader

Members: Masakatsu Tamura (59), Kunihiko Sato (58), Yasuji Moriyama (51), Yasuo Ota (48), Seiko Mantoku (47)

Summary: Attempt on Yangra Kangri (7429 m), Ganesh Himal, China/Nepal border, September-October 2001.

Photos 75 to 81

 

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