EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES

  1. BRITISH MASAGANG EXPEDITION
  2. INDO-JAPANESE PATHIBARA EXPEDITION, 1993
  3. INDO-UKRAINE KANGCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION, 1993
  4. THE IRISH EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1993
  5. BRITISH PERI HIMAL EXPEDITION, 1992
  6. INDO-US ARMY EXPEDITION TO MANA
  7. MERU SHARK'S FIN
  8. SARASWATI PEAK
  9. ON SWARGAROHIM I
  10. WHAT DID YOU DO IN SORANG VALLEY?
  11. PIN VALLEY NATIONAL PARK AND ITS WILDLIFE
  12. LAYUL PASS, 1985
  13. ON BARA SHIGRI
  14. CLIMBING IN LITTLE TIBET
  15. MAMOSTONG KANGRI II, 1993
  16. AQ TASH
  17. FANTASTIC MOUNTAIN, THE OGRE
  18. NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITIONS, 1992 AND 1993
  19. TWO NEW ROUTES ON FALAKSER AND MANKIAL

 

 

 

1. BRITISH MASAGANG EXPEDITION

JULIAN FREEMAN-ATTWOOD

BHUTAN IS A small kingdom lying in the eastern half of the Himalayan ranges between Sikkim and Assam, with Tibet across the border to the north.

Bhutan is the most difficult Himalayan country to get a permit to visit, and is arguably the most difficult country in the world to visit. It may also be the most expensive. Strict tourist regulation has occurred as a result of the authorities being aware of the fragility of their, as yet, intact environment and culture. Small parties and high-priced tours are the order of the day, with only 1800 people being allowed to visit the kingdom in 1993. This is, in fact, down 25% from 1992 — probably due to the Western recession.

The enormous respect for their environment, permeating through most of Bhutanese society, manifests itself in the fact that 64% of the total country is virgin forest, either sub-tropical or alpine. Considering that 20% of the country, is land above fhe tree line, and/or glaciated, the actual percentage of forest cover for the area capable of growing trees is nearer 85%. Just 8% is used for agriculture and with a population of under a million, the authorities know they are on to .i good thing and are trying not to make the mistakes of the West.1

Few mountaineering parties have climbed on Bhutan's main axis peaks, although quite a few parties have climbed sub 6000 m peaks requiring no permit (but still subject to the high land costs).

Since Spencer Chapman's 1937 ascent of Chomolhari from Tibet (climbed again by an Indo-Bhutanese expedition in 1970, and now out of bounds as it is Bhutan's most holy mountain), there have been the following expeditions:

  1. Japanese, to Jitchu Drake, 1983 (pre-monsoon);
  2. Japanese, to Jitchu Drake, 1984 (pre-monsoon);
  3. Italian, to Jitchu Drake, 1984 (two killed) (post-monsoon);
  4. Japanese, to Gangkar Pucnsum, 1985 (pre-monsoon);
  5. American, to Gangkar Puensum, 1985 (never made base camp) (post-monsoon);
  6. Japanese, to Masagang, 1985 (post-monsoon);
  7. Austrian, to Gangkar Puensum, 1986 (pre-monsoon);
  8. British, to Gangkar Puensum, 1986 (post-monsoon);
  9. British, to Jitchu Drake, 1988 (pre-monsoon);
  10. Japanese, to Tsenda Kang, 1991 (post-monsoon);
  11. British, to Masagang, 1993 !pre-monsoon);

Aims of the expedition

Through the good offices of HM Wangchuk, permission was granted in 1992 for a pre-monsoon attempt on Masagang2 in 1993. It was our intention to attempt a route on the southwest of this 7195 m mountain, but the expedition was going to have to be a reconnaissance and climb combined. With the land costs of Bhutan as they are, a separate reconnaissance would have incurred unacceptable expense.

The Trek

We arrived in Paro (via Delhi) on 5 April 1993 in time for the annual Paro Tsechu (festival). We spent 6 April in Thimphu sorting out our food and gear that had been air-freighted out; on 7 April we drove to Punakha Dzong and thence to the roadhead some miles up the Mo Chu (mother river) valley.

Expedition dairy

8 April: Thirty ponies loaded, we set off through sub-tropical forest of oak, chestnut, elm, chir, birch and rhododendron, for the village of Damji (2280 m).

9 April: Damji to Gaza Dzong (2800 m); bathed at Gaza hot springs.

10 April: Gaza to Koina (3300 m).

11 April: Koina to Laya (3400 m); ponies changed for yaks.

12 April: Short day up valley to east of Masagang, to yak herders' shelter. After looking at a satellite map, we noticed a valley on the southwest of the peak and realised we were being taken up the valley towards the Japanese 1985 base camp. We decided to double back to the southwest via Laya, despite the yak herders saying at first that no trail in the southwest valley existed.

2. The peak is also called Matsa Gang (See High Asia by Jill Neate).

The SW face of Masaging.

39. The SW face of Masaging.
Note 1 (Julian Freeman-Attwood)

Pathibara (Pyramid Peak) E fac. Sphinx on right.

40. Pathibara (Pyramid Peak) E fac. Sphinx on right.
Note 2 (Yoshio Ogata)

Traversing towards ‘Second Step’ on North ridge of Everest.

41. Traversing towards ‘Second Step’ on North ridge of Everest.
Note 4 (Frank Nuguit)

13 April: At yak herders' shelter*

14-18 April: Contour around to two villages in which we were told that we were the first foreigners of any description to have entered. The southwest valley at its lower end grew massive spruce and pine. At the head, huge ramparts rose 2500 m to the western flying buttress of Masagang.

With two days of reconnaissance, we concluded that the route (a lot of imagination was required to see one) would not go for our party. Webster probably got the best view, and thought that the break in the south ridge was far more difficult to overcome than first appearances might have suggested. Anyway, we were all agreed that without a certain amount of fixing rope (which we did not have) the route could not safely be reversed; and going over the top to find another descent would have been virtually impossible, as we later found out. We, therefore, decided to return with all our yaks to the eastern valley (between Masagang and Tsenda Kang) to find another route.

19 April: We could see no feasible routes on the east side of the mountain — which is exceptionally steep, with much objective danger — and, therefore, had no alternative but to set up base at the old Japanese camp and attempt their 1985 route.

20 April: Established base camp, 4500 m.

21 April: Established site of advanced base camp, 5000 m. First loads to advanced base camp.

22-25 April: Either poor weather at base camp, or loads to advanced base camp.

26 April: Established Cl 5600 m. This was only reached by heading north to the Tibetan border, in order to avoid the main Masagang i[l<icier icefall.

27 April: To col at 6000 m, to acclimatise and make reconnaissance fo forepeak. Very exceptional views of all Bhutan's main axis peaks i.istwards to Gangkar Puensum, and fine views of Tibetan plateau.

28-29 April: At base camp.

30 April: To advanced base camp.

1 May: To Cl.

2 May: Very heavy loads to establish C2 at 6150 m. Very poor wiMther at night and next day. C2 was situated near an ice-pyramid In-low the forepeak.

3 May: Remained at C2 to acclimatise. Drifting snow all day.

4 May: Returned from C2 (6150 m) to base camp (4500 m). 5-8 May: At base camp. Weather unsettled:

9 May: Summit attempt started. To advanced base camp.

10 May: Snowing. Stayed at advanced base camp.

11 May: To Cl.

12 May: Deep powder snow. Stayed at Cl.

13 May: To C2. Heavy snow made the slopes below C2 possibly unstable.Arrived to strong winds and drifting snow.

14 May: Snow abated to some extent. Webster, Smith and Sustad continued for 200 m above C2 to reconnoitre. They returned after 2V2 hours to reveal that the route would not go. This was a bitter blow on a route of, to date, no technical difficulty, and which we had every hope of getting up. What we found was a hard traverse of 400 or 500 m underneath massive, overhanging and unstable ice towers. (Smith was definitely not going to risk it after his close shave on Nanga Parbat, and Sustad was equally defiant.) Freeman-Attwood and Lecky did not go to the high point that day, but were prepared to accept the decision of the reconnaissance team.

There was simply no other feasible route onto the easy upper slopes, so we had to admit defeat some 800 m from the top. Lecky was particularly disappointed, that being his first Himalayan trip. We had all put in a lot of work and were extremely acclimatised and fit.

In the unknown parts of Bhutan one is, in essence, combining reconnaissance and climb in one expedition. The high land costs imposed in Bhutan, rule out reconnaissance as a separate job. I believe that if one wants to go to these areas, one must expect disappointments like ours and gain from the experience of exploration. We were the only expedition to receive a climbing permit in Bhutan for 1993. In a year that we have heard much about Everest and the numerous ascents of that mountain, it was obvious how fortunate we had been to see and explore such a little-known area.

Summary: An attempt on Masagang (Matsa Gang) (7195 m), Bhutan, by a British expedition in April-May 1993.
Photos 37-38-39

 

 

⇑ Top

 

2. INDO-JAPANESE PATHIBARA EXPEDITION, 1993

YOSHIO OGATA

PATHIBARA (Pyramid Peak) (7123 m) is a challenging mountain located in the North Sikkim Himalaya. It is on the western rim of mountains in the Lhonak valley and is situated approximately 12 km north of Kangchenjunga. The peak was attempted three times by different European teams in the past, but they could not climb it as it is difficult and dangerous. The northeast peak was climbed in 1949 by the Swiss team led by R. Dittert from Nepal but he could not climb the main peak which remained a virgin.

Our expedition was jointly sponsored by the Himalayan Association of Japan and the Indo-Tibet Border Police (ITBP) and we were the first international party in many years to attempt Pathibara from Sikkim. Harbhajan Singh, Assistant Commandant of ITBP was the overall leader of the expedition and Yoshio Ogata, Director HAJ was the co-leader. The joint team comprised of five Japanese and eleven Indian climbers with six Sherpas from Darjeeling. Fifty year old Nobhuhiro Shingo was the oldest member, and Kazuaki Hirata (23) was the youngest. We flew to Bagdogra on 5 March and reached Gangtok, the capital* of Sikkim. We had to stay here for three days to obtain the permits. On 9 March we drove 130 km to North Sikkim and reached our roadhead Lachen the same day. From here there are two routes to approach the base camp at Green Lake on the Zemu glacier. One route is along the Zemu chu from Lachen and the other is a round .ibout route from the north via Lhonak valley and Thangu. Based on our previous experience and the area we selected the first route. With great difficulty we managed to hire forty porters at Lachen. It is more difficult to obtain porters in North Sikkim than in other ports of the Himalaya.

The weather was rather bad for many days and we had lot of difficulties during our approach march to the base camp. We were the first team going into the area and hence we had to open the route right from the roadhead. The base camp was established on 17 March at Green Lake (4934 m) by an advance party. Towards the end of March it snowed heavily in the area and about 45 cm of snow accumulated at Lachen. This resulted in delay of transportation of our equipment and the movement was delayed towards the base camp. Due to continuous bad weather, the remaining party was stranded at the roadhead Lachen for 14 days. On 31 March we forced our way through,snow for the base camp, reaching it on 5 April. The entire equipment could reach the base camp as late as 13 April.

On 6 April itself the party was sent to recce the route for advance base camp. They negotiated an icy wall and a completely glaciated area by fixing 250 m of rope. They established ABC on the Tent Peak glacier at 5450 m on 7 April and then climbed over the Tent Peak pass (5953 m) with some fixed ropes and in the north they descended to the Changsang glacier and established Cl at 5600 m on 11 April.

The party moved ahead to select the route and the place for C2 on 12 April. First from C1 they had to approach the Langpo la between Sphinx and the south Langpo Peak. The whole area was highly avalanche-prone. They could not find a good route, led by Ogata, came back to C1. The matter was discussed with the leader and a longer route was suggested. The route ahead of Langepo la would require four camps to be established via a subsidiary spur.

On 14 April Ogata's party followed the other route. The subsidiary spur stretched southeast from Sphinx. The crest of the spur was . climbed on 17 April. This was the most difficult part of the expedition.

It required extensive use of fixed ropes and other technical gear. The party could negotiate the route only after fixing 1100 m of ropes. They reached the summit ridge of Sphinx and established C2 on the shoulder of the peak at 6700 m on 19 April. This camp was only four pitches short of the highest point of Sphinx (6824 m). No more camps were to be established and the party started opening the route for the summit on the following day.

On 20 April the party climbed over Sphinx and reached the northeast ridge of Pathibara of 22 April. The weather was clear and the ropes were fixed from the col between the northeast peak and the main peak. But the weather changed suddenly in the evening and Ogata's party had to withdraw to C2 from this col. The route from C2 was a mixture of steep icy slope and a traverse along the knife-edged ridge which demanded high technical skill. There was fresh snowfall almost every evening and the party faced lots of mixed ground and difficulties.

After one day of rest 7 members led by Ogata started for the summit on 24 April at 4.30 a.m. They were Ogata, Hiroshi, Iwazaki, Nobuhiro Shingo from Japan and, Jotsingh Bhandari, Sunder Singh Martolia, Lopsang Sherpa and Phurba Lepcha from India. They reached the high point on 22 April at 9.30 a.m. They fixed four more lengths of rope to the summit and climbed the knife-edged summit ridge keeping towards the Changsang glacier side. The last 7 pitches of the route from the northeast peak to the main summit were horrible and very difficult snow-ridges. This was the crux of the whole climb." At 12.50 p.m. Iwazaki stood on the summit of Pathibara and others joined him soon. They spent about one hour on the summit and returned to C2 safely.

On 26 April Masanori Suzuki, Kazuki Hirata from Japan and Hira Ram from India also climbed to the summit. Five other members, led by Harbhajan Singh, were closely following this team. Due to a sudden change in the weather, they did not climb the main peak. They instead climbed the northeast peak, reaching it at 2 p.m.

The expedition returned safely by the same route. This expedition found a huge quantity of garbage and filth lying near the base camp. As this is the same base camp for Kangchenjunga, the entire area needs to be protected. The filth was cleared and brought down to Lachen.

Editor's Note:

Pyramid Peak is now christened Pathibara. The peak is situated on the Indo-Nepalese border in North Sikkim.

The history of Pathibara is short. The British expedition in 1936 .ittempted the northeast arete. They did not proceed beyond Sphinx, as the route became too difficult. They climbed the northeast peak .md Sphinx on 8, June 1936. J. K. Cooke, F. S. Chapman, J. B. I larrison, Ang Nyima were the summitters, (H.J. Vol. IX, p. 88).

A Swiss-German team attempted the main peak in 1939, but did not make much headway. The team consisted of E. Grob (Swiss) and H. Paidar and L. Schmaderer (Germans) (H.J. Vol. XIII, p. 46).

The Swiss team led by R. Dittert attempted the group from the west (Nepal side) in 1949. They reached 7080 m (23,224 ft) on the main peak and climbed Sphinx on 6 June via the northeast rklge gained from the west. Summitters were R. Dittert, A. Sutter, J, Pargatzi, Ajeeba, Gyalzen and Dawa Thondup. On the same day they climbed the northeast peak (H.J. Vol. XVI, p. 25).

The Japanese team in 1964 coming from the west could not climb tin1 peak due to the cornices.

Members: Harbhajan Singh, (leader), Yoshio Ogata, (Japanese leader) Dr. R. Mukerji, A. S. Rawat, Sunder Singh, Jot Singh, Lobsang Sherpa, Hira Ram, Chhodda Tshering, Durbin Singh, Puma Kumar Gurang and Phurba Lepcha, Indians.

Nobuhiro Shingo, Hiroshi Iwazaki, Masanori Suzuki and Kazuki Hirata, Japanese.

Period: February to May 1993.

Summary: The first ascent of Pathibara (7123 m) on 24 and 26 April 1993 by an Indo-Japanese expedition. The peak was climbed from the east (Sikkim side). The northeast peak (7100 m) was climbed on 26 April 1993. The entire team traversed over Sphinx (6837 m).

 

 

⇑ Top

 

3. INDO-UKRAINE KANGCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION, 1993

P. BODHANE AND V. SIVIRIDENKO

THE EXPEDITION WAS jointly sponsored by the Holiday Hikers Club, Bombay. India and the Odessa Himalayan Committee, Ukraine, under the auspices of the Indian Mountaineering Fo'indation. There were 3 Indians, 16 Ukranians and two officials, one each from the IMF and the Sikkim armed police in the team.

After completing all the administrative work we reached roadhead, Lachen in North Sikkim on 8 April 1993. Due to the 'Kalchakra' festival we faced lots of problems acquiring porters. On the 11th an advance team of 6 members left Lachen for the base camp. The next day, the second team of 9 members started their march to BC. The base camp was established and occupied on the 14th by 12 members with 2 Sherpas and a cook at Green Lake (4935 m).

It took 20 days to transport the entire load to the base camp. At the same time, the advance party was busy opening the route beyond BC. The approach march with the load from Lachen to BC through the river Zemu chu was a tough job.

The advance base camp was set, up at the junction of Zemu chu and the Twins glacier at 5200 m. Cl was set up on the right limits of the upper Zemu glacier basin at 5700 m.

For the route ahead we had to follow the east spur of Kangchenjunga. This spur has been named as the northeast spur by the German expedition of Paul Bauer. The following camps were established. at different altitudes and locations as mentioned below:

Cl (5700 m) on the south face of the last spur on 21 April (fixed 200 m rope en route).

C2 (6300 m) at the tip of the cornice on the east spur on 24 April (fixed 800 m rope en route).

C3 (6800 m) on the snow slope on the east spur on 5 May (fixed 600 m rope en route).

C4 (7300 m) on the snow slope on the east spur, on 10 May (fixed 600 m rope en route).

C5 (7600 m) near the junction of the east spur and the north ridge on 22 May (fixed 300 m rope en route).

C6 (8100 m) on the north face on Nepal side on 22 May (old rope found and used).

On 22 May, a 6 member team headed by Mikhail Sitnik reached C5 at noon. The main summit was visible from C5. The whole team marched to C6 immediately and reached C6 at 3 p.m. At C6 they pitched two tents 100 m apart from each other on the north ridge on the Nepal side.

On the 23rd, the same team started climbing towards the summit early in the morning. At 3 p.m. suddenly our sets came alive and it was the voice of Mikhail who was speaking enthusiastically from the summit. Mikhail said that they had reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8586 m) at 2.40 p.m. The following members reached the top of Kangchenjunga, Mikhail Sitnik, Alexei Kharaldine, Vladislav Terzeoul, Velentin Borko and Alexander Serpak.

A report of the second attempt by a team of 4 members headed by Sashya Perkhomenko is given below in Sashya's words.

I started with my team for the summit from C6 early in the morning of 26 May. The weather was not good but we kept on climbing. We could not make any contact with BC. At 6.40 p.m. I and Ibragim Zade found ourselves on the top of Kangchenjunga in deteriorating and inclement weather. The other two members Serguei Klovanitch and Iouri Ditiouk returned without climbing the summit due to some problem with their* oxygen sets.

The team reached the base camp safely and went on to Lachen. All team members reached Delhi on 10 June 1993.

Summary: The ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586 m) from the east spur and northeast ridge by the Indo-Ukraine team. 7 Ukrainian members reached the summit on 23 and 26 May 1993.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

4. THE IRISH EVEREST EXPEDITION, 1993

DAWSON STELFOX

THE 1993 IRISH EVEREST EXPEDITION climbed the North Ridge (1960 Chinese route), with Dawson Stelfox reaching the summit on 27 May 1993.

The party consisted of eight climbers Dawson Stelfox, (leader); Frank Nugent (deputy leader); Dermot Somers, Robbie Fenlon, Mike Barry., Richard O'Neill Dean; Mick Murphy and Tony Burke.

This was the first Irish attempt on Everest and as Stelfox holds dual nationality, this was also the first British ascent of the North Ridge. No other 8000 m peaks have yet been climbed by Irish expeditions. Members were from both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland and the trip was supported by the Mountaineering Council of Ireland (MCI), the Sports Councils in Dublin and Belfast and financed by leading Irish companies and fund raising events.

The team left Ireland for Kathmandu on 17 March and after an acclimatisation trek in Nepal crossed the border at Zhangmu into Tibet on 28 March. Snow blocked roads made for a slow approach and it was 2 April before base camp was established, tucked under the snout of the Rongbuk glacier at 5170 m. The area was scrupulously clean, the toilet block and rubbish pit recently emptied.

Already in residence at the lower base camp site was a large Chinese/Taiwanese group and a small Korean team, both aiming for the North Ridge. The Chinese/Taiwanese had already fixed ropes on the steeper slopes of the North ^3ol which we were able to use in return for carrying some loads for them from ABC at 6500 m to C2 at 7800 m.

Himlung south face.

42. Himlung south face.
Note 5 (Peter Hudd)

Traversing on the summit ridge to peak of Mana.

43. Traversing on the summit ridge to peak of Mana.
Note 6

Mana, the approach from the east.

44. Mana, the approach from the east.
Note 6 (Lt. Col. H.S. Chauhan)

Our advance base camp was established at 6450 m at the top of the East Rongbuk glacier on 7 April, all supplies being carried up by yak. There was, and still is, considerable amounts of rubbish at this level — some historical, some very recent. Our rubbish and surplus food was removed by yak from base camp at the end of the trip but this does not seem to be common practice — probably partly due to artificially high yak costs charged by the Tibet Mountaineering Association.

The first trip to Cl on the North Col was on 11 April. The snow was in good firm condition though the route was threatened by alarmingly overhanging seracs for part of the way. In any event there were no serac collapses but the snow conditions gradually deteriorated and during the final descent off the mountain at the end of May, only the fixed ropes prevented climbers being swept away by small fresh snow-avalanches.

Despite the arduous trek up the East Rongbuk glacier, climbers returned on two or three occasions to base camp, the lower altitude speeding up acclimatisation and found the advantage considerable over trying to rest and recover at ABC. Three trek groups from Ireland visited us through the course of the trip and many made a difficult journey up to ABC.

C2 was established at 7700 m on the rocky north ridge. Good campsites around here are rare and the other expedition was occupying the best area at about 7800 m. Other sites above this are possible, but we found the climb up from the North Col very taxing and settled for the lower site. This whole area is exposed to strong westerly winds which almost continuously swept across the North Face and we lost two tents and numerous poles at this camp. Winds and unsettled weather prevented progress beyond this point until 16 May when a strong attempt to establish C3 reached 8200 m, only 100 m below the intended site. Meanwhile on 11 May, 1 Chinese, 1 Taiwanese and 4 Tibetan 'Sherpas' reached the summit but made an epic descent, all but one suffering severe frostbite and some surviving only by our offer of oxygen and stoves at 7700 m.

The weather continued cold, windy and unsettled through most of May, and although we were able to fully stock Cl and C2, it was impractical to make a summit attempt until 23 May when a good forecast from the British Met Office in England indicated an improvement.

Frank Nugent and Dawson Stelfox left ABC on the 24th, supported by Mike Barry and Khunke Sherpa. The following day they climbed to C2 and Robbie Fenlon, Tony Burke, Mick Murphy and Dendi Sherpa le,ft ABC to follow up on a second summit attempt. Strong winds forced** a halt on the 25th, but on the following day Nugent and Stelfox established C3 on a snow slope below the crest of the ridge at 8300 m amongst the wrecked tents of previous expeditions. Fenlon, Burke, Murphy and Dendi moved up to C2. Barry and Khunke descended, their support role completed. All climbers used oxygen above C2.

Nugent and Stelfox left C3 at 5.00 a.m. on the 27th, reaching the crest of the ridge at 7.30 a.m., slowed by deep snow and difficult route finding in the dark. The initially easy snow ridge led onto steep slabby rock, covered with a thin layer of powder snow and there were few traces of old ropes. The traverse around the first rock step was awkward and the climbing grew progressively more difficult. Nugent was having increasing problems with his oxygen system, struggling to get sufficient air for the demanding ground. At 8680 m, he decided to turn back and made a cautious descent to C3 alone. The ridge at this point is narrow and pinnacled, guarded on the east by large cornices — the best line a delicate traverse on steep slabs 20 m below the crest on the northern side. The Second Step was well equipped with old fixed ropes and the 1975 Chinese ladder up the final 8 m was still precariously in place.

Beyond the step the climbing eased, the route crossing a broad boulder-strewn ridge to reach the Third Step at the top of the Great Couloir. Now in thick cloud and light snow, Stelfox completed a rising traverse rightwards across a 50 degree snowfield and then up more slabs to the steep rock buttress guarding the summit. A ramp line led back left onto the summit ridge, about 200 m from the top. The weather cleared again, cloud descending into the valleys and Stelfox reached the summit about 5.00 p.m., 12 hours after starting out. There was little wind, views were extensive, no-one else on the summit and clear radio communication was established to base camp.

After barely 30 minutes on top he started to descend. Fresh snow at the top of the Second Step caused problems trying to locate the top of the ladder as tracks had been filled in. Oxygen ran out soon after and darkness overcame him at the point of leaving the ridge above C3. He reached C3 by torchlight at 11.00 p.m., the descent taking 6 hours.

Fenlon and Burke had reached C3 that day and made their summit attempt the following morning, reaching 8500 m before strengthening winds and increasing cloud forced them to return to C3. All four climbers then started the descent, dismantling camps en route. Within a few hours it was snowing hard but they all reached the North Col by 6.00 p.m. Burke remained there and descended the following morning but the others carried on down to advance base camp in white-out conditions, reaching there after dark. Yaks arrived the following day and we all left base camp on 2 June returning overland .to Kathmandu in two days.

Summary: The ascent of Everest (8848 m) by an Irish team. Leader Dawson Stelfox reached the summit alone on 27 May 1993 by the North Ridge route.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

5. BRITISH PERI HIMAL EXPEDITION, 1992

PETER HUDD

Objective

THE OBJECTIVE OF OUR EXPEDITION was to make the first ascent of the south face of Himlung Himal (7126 m). This would be the first British ascent of the mountain and only its second ascent overall.

Brief History of Himlung Himal

The Japanese had tried to climb the mountain as long ago as the early sixties, closely followed by an Austrian-Dutch pair in 1964. Both expeditions reported huge avalanche activity on the east and west ridges. It is uncertain, however, whether both these ridges were .ittempted during one expedition as the ground between is extremely difficult. The Japanese returned to Himlung's east ridge in a joint venture with a Nepalese team during the spring seasons of 1982 and 1983. They reached about 6700 m before having to give up due to heavy snowfall and high winds. It was during the post-monsoon season of 1984 that Himlung was first climbed via the east ridge by a joint Nepalese-Japanese team. Until the American expedition of 1987, the south face of Himlung had been avoided. This group climbed the Ratner icefall to reach the base of the 'Wishbone' couloir which led to the western spur of the south ridge at 5640 m. Climbing above this became extremely difficult and the attempt was abandoned on this account. The south ridge was attempted once again, in the winter season of 1991, this time by a British expedition. They reached a similar height to that of the Americans, but avoided the Wishbone couloir in favour of mixed ground much further left. They also reported large scale difficulties above their high point.

The Team

This consisted of five members, most of whom had previously climbed together, either in the Himalaya or elsewhere. The leader of the expedition was Peter Hudd and the rest of the team comprised of Brian Ottewell, David Wharton, David 'Budge' Burgess, and Dave 'Otty' Ottewell.

Kathmandu — Base Camp

We arrived in Kathmandu during the last couple of weeks of October and spent the customary few days there, sorting things out and meeting old friends including Nima, our Sirdar of previous trips and for this trip. Kathmandu seemed less busy than the previous year, but other than that and the building of yet more hotels, little had changed.

We were able to use transport nearly to Besi Sahar where the track became impassable due to a series of trucks that had become bogged down in the mud. From here, we trekked for six days, following the Annapurna trail as far as Dharapani before branching off northeastwards through the village of Tilje on the Dudh Khola and eventually to the trader's shack and the picturesque meadow at Bimthang. Here, we met a few groups of trekkers who had just descended from the Larkya la on the recently opened Manaslu circuit. From Bimthang, it took us one more day to reach our base camp at the head of the valley NW from Bimthang at 4450 m. Base camp was in an idyllic setting, with running water dose at hand and superb views down-valley to the majestic peak of Manaslu. Our porters had done an excellent job in getting us this far and not a hint of trouble the whole time.

Early Days

During the first few days at base camp, we had very poor weather. We did however manage to establish Cl at 4940 m nicely situated on a rocky spur, which involved extensive platform levelling. In the early stages, it took us about 3 hours to reach Cl from BC, over a dry glacier and then grassy slopes to the final rocky section where we fixed one short length of rope. After we became acclimatized, this time was reduced by half. Cl was established on 4 November 1992.

From Cl we had excellent views of the possible routes that lay ahead. Our initial intention was to aim for the snow and ice arête that flanked the right hand side of the obvious couloir opposite Cl. We tried to gain this from the right, but having spent a couple of days following blind alleys on the glacier, we were once again hampered by poor weather that made route-finding a bit of a lottery.

There followed a discussion as to the most probable line of ascent. We were all agreed as to the point we were aiming for but our thoughts on getting there were mixed. There seemed to be a choice of following the coulpir itself or heading up the snow slopes further righf. from behind Cl and then treading back left over mixed ground. We decided upon the latter, which though it appeared more technical, was objectively safer. Our sights were set on establishing a second camp maybe 500-700 m higher, just to the left of a rocky knoll that could be seen both from BC and Cl. The ground that followed provided some absorbing mixed climbing, mainly on snow/rock ridges, including one horrendously loose section, where repeated stonefall led to damage of the fixed ropes. Climbing in two groups of two and .ilternating with the fifth person, the route was quickly pushed out, and on the fourth day, Brian and I traversed the snow ridge leftwards of the rocky knoll. This would have made an excellent tent site as protection from the wind (and unfortunately, also from the early sun) would have been afforded by small ice-towers situated along the ridge. From Cl however, we were unable to appreciate the distance and the near 300 m vertical drop that separated this rocky knol! from the main face. It may have been possible to continue traversing leftwards along the ridgeline, thus avoiding most of the height loss, but this appeared to lead to very steep snow and a whole new set of problems. From our vantage point however, the route we had first considered to our left looked feasible; perhaps the couloir was our best bet after all!

Brian and I descended to Cl for the night, and after consultation with the others we decided to abandon this line. We climbed and jumared back up to our previous high point and with bulging sacks, we cleared all the fixed ropes down to Cl, a soul destroying task, after so much effort had been expended in getting that far. We had now been on the mountain for nearly two weeks, and after these two abortive attempts were back to square one, albeit better acclimatized.

The Couloir and Beyond

I think by now, we had begun to appreciate the complexity of the south face of Himlung. It was as if the south face proper was guarded from assault by lesser and more expendable outliers of rock rather like in the game of chess where the pawns are sacrificed in defence of more worthy prizes.

___And to our High Point

It was Dave and Otty who made the first excursion into the couloir, and after only the first day had got as far as the col at its top. The climbing was technically easy with a steepening to about 50° for the final 70 m. One more day and they had broken into the mixed ground above. Brian and I then had a few days out in front, fixing ropes for about 150 m on fairly stiff ground to a small rock platform that was only just large enough to take one small tent that was to be our C2, at 5490 m, with precipitous drops on three sides. We had enjoyed a great day's climbing, and to capitalise upon this, we decided to erect the tent before heading downwards. We had paid little attention to the clock and it was already getting dark as we abseiled the last rope to the col at the head of the couloir. It was during this abseil that one of my crampon bindings broke. Back at the col, a temporary repair was undertaken using the little spare tape we had available. It was not wholly successful and as a result we decided to fix our last remaining rope down the steepest section of the couloir. After another hour and one or two further stops to resecure my crampon, we reached the bottom of the couloir just as the last flickers of light faded. We had crossed the glacier many times by now, and therefore, had no reason to suspect any difficulties on this occasion. We had, however, naively overlooked the fact that it was now a very dark and cloudy night, we were without headtorches, or ropes, and I had only one usable crampon. We must have stumbled about on that glacier for close on two hours trying to pick up some signs of the morning's footprints. We may have decided to sit it out on the glacier until the following dawn if we had had some extra clothing or bivi gear with us but we had elected to leave this up ab^ve at C2. It's surprisingly difficult to detect crevasses on a .glacier at night, and many a time, our progress was halted as we crawled to the edge of one of these gaping holes. Gradually, we weaved a circuitous route across this steeply inclined glacier and after further false leads and some step cutting on hard ice, the much awaited haven of C2 was reached.

The ground above C2 was mainly snow of about 45° and after six rope lengths, there followed a steep ice section of Scottish IV leading up to the base of the huge ice-seracs. A tricky rock traverse and more ice-work got us 100 m or so higher and to the base of the ice-cliff separating us from the top end of the ridge and the plateau atop the ice seracs. Next followed probably the most difficult ice pitch of the entire climb, well led by Brian and a climax to this section of the route to C3. It did not however, quite land us on the snow plateau we had expected. Instead, we were on a small isolated ridge-line with spectacular drops to the glacier 650m below. A small snowy descent and careful negotiation of some crevasses led to the edge of the plateau. Here, we set up a fixed rope in direct line with the climbing below, thus avoiding this short detour. Kiisy ground, hampered by knee deep snow then followed until it steepened just below a cornice. It was too late to mount an attack upon this tonight so we abseiled back down the fixed ropes to C2.

The next day, our fourth above C2, we rearranged the fixed ropes ind then pushed on upwards, myself tunnelling through the cornice of the previous day's high point to arrive shortly afterwards at the «lte we intended using for C3 (6100 m).

We had been on the mountain now for over three weeks and had only ten days remaining before having to leave base camp. We h.id also underestimated the quantity of gas required, and had previously out Ang Dawa back to Kathmandu to fetch an extra twenty cylinders. This was still to arrive. Back at C2, Brian and I had used the list remaining cylinder the previous night. It was very frustrating the next morning not knowing what the situation was and whether more |n(* had arrived at base camp. We had been able to fill two' water bottles the prior evening so decided to wait at C2 in the hope that the gas had got as far as Cl and someone would be doing a carry up to us today. Sure enough at about mid morning we saw what we thought were three figures making their way up the grassy slopes to Cl. We watched their progress as far as the first camp where they", obviously rested for a while. Only one figure emerged from the tent, and a couple of hours later in the couloir, this person was recognised as Otty. He was sporting a heavy load so Brian volunteered to descend to meet his brother and make the final carry to C2. I relaxed back into my sleeping bag, now more content, knowing the gas crisis was over, i was awoken sometime.later in the gathering gloom of evening to the sound of clanging ironmongery and the crunch of crampons in the snow outside. Looking out of the tent, I was surprised to see Otty and not his brother as I had expected. Apparently, Otty had expressed a wish to 'get out in front' for a few days, so Brian had continued on down to Cl that night and then to base camp the next day for a rest.

The next section of the route comprised mainly of steepish snow/ice slopes with the odd bit of rock. Our intention was to make a rising traverse, treading leftwards for dose on 300 m. At this stage we thought this would position us in close proximity to the junction with the west ridge, which could then be followed with what appeared to be little technical difficulty to the summit. We had six or seven days remaining in order to achieve this.

The first day, Otty and myself managed just a couple of rope-lengths, on account of Otty still suffering from yesterday's haul. That night, back at C3, the weather took a severe turn for the worse with raging blizzards and high winds, forcing us to remain in the tent for the whole of the next day. Meanwhile, Dave was by himself at the exposed C2 and Brian and Budge were at Cl. This further delay did little to improve our chances of success.

Otty and myself were forced to dig out some of the ropes we had fixed a few days earlier, and despite very heavy sacks, we did manage to extend the route beyond our previous high point. That evening Dave did a further carry to C3 and stayed the night. We were once again getting low on gas so the next morning, Otty did a return trip to C2 and brought up all the remaining supplies,, a mere three cylinders. Meanwhile, Dave and myself jumared up to the end of the fixed ropes and then continued to push the route out as far as possible. We eventually reached the prominent snowy knoll after 200 m of grade 111/1V ice. From here, we anticipated easier ground through ice seracs to the junction with the west ridge. We were however, disappointed, as the route ahead appeared far from obvious with extensive detours necessary to avoid the ice seracs. And, although the altitude gain to reach the west ridge was probably a little more than 150 m, the distance involved was far greater than we had first imagined. We tied off all the excess climbing gear and abseiled on already iced up ropes down to C3.

The following day, Dave was feeling unwell so decided to rest at C3. Otty and myself made excellent time to the high point. A tricky traverse round the knoll and then along the knife edge on dubious snow. I led off leftwards across 70° very hard ice below some huge ice-diffs. I think it was the downward pressure from these ice-cliffs that metamorphosed the ice below them into a texture that resembled hardened concrete. I was more than relieved to reach the other side after this underprotected 40 m pitch. We now found some «asy ground for a few ropelengths and dug a pit into the snow to take our small bivi tent that was to constitute C4. We did contemplate remaining high for the night but as we had no sleeping bags and little food or gas, it seemed pointless.

Brian had joined Dave at C3, bringing up with him the last remaining full gas cylinder, thus nearly doubling the overall quantity at our disposal.

Our Final Assault

The weather dawned clear and fine, we knew it was our last chance of any success as we had only two or three days left, and that was if the gas lasted that long. Brian selflessly went without breakfast <ind drinks in order to conserve fuel and suggested that he would ilcscend. Dave made an attempt at jummaring the fixed ropes out c if C3 but was going too slow to make any serious impact on the route above. He also decided to go down.

So, it was Otty and I who set off,«heavily laden from C3. We were both feeling tired, I from ten days continuous out in front above C2 and Otty from doing much of the vital load-carrying between Camps. We reached the snowy knoll just after noon, and then across Hi<- dreaded ice traverse to the site of C4. After a short rest there .mil a sorting out of gear, we left, intending to push as far as possible and hopefully reach the west ridge. That would stand us In ijood stead for a final assault on the summit the next day.

Climbing unroped at first, we made fairly rapid progress up 50° ice slopes and through some small seracs. As the condition of the snow deteriorated and the prospect of falling ice from above increased, decided to rope the next few pitches which took us to a small fn amidst some impressive serac ice architecture. By now, the cither had begun to deteriorate and although the west ridge was Htlcn by cloud, we could see enough of the jumble of ice that lay ahead to know that our chances of reaching it in the time that we had available were pretty slim. It was at this point therefore that we reluctantly made the joint decision to abandon our attempt; and retreat to C4 to spend our coldest night yet.

The following day, Otty and I stripped down the mountain to C3, and during the next couple of days as we were once again hit by severe blizzards, all the gear was brought down to base camp. It appeared that the onset of winter had come early and we were just able to make it out in time before base camp became too deep in snow and beyond the reach of our porters.

Reflections___

It's easy to look back with hindsight in mountaineering and wish that perhaps you had made a different decision, a different choice of route, or an alternative strategy. And whilst this retrospect often develops a healthy mountaineering sense within the individual, and is one of the joys of mountaineering itself, it should not be allowed to detract from any achievement gained in making those decisions.

The main reason for our failure to reach the summit was probably due to lack of time, and this was a direct result of the 10 days or so lost on our early abortive attempts, prior to finding what we considered to be the desired line. I suppose it's somewhat ironic that our first proposal, even prior to setting forth beyond base camp, and the means of our eventual ascent, to take the line of the couloir beyond Cl was rejected in favour of an unsuccessful route further right. I guess that's mountaineering!

Summary: An attempt on Himlung Himal (7126 m) by a British expedition in October-November 1992.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

6. INDO-US ARMY EXPEDITION TO MANA

Lt. Col. H. S. CHAUHAN

AN INDO-US ARMY mountaineering expedition was organised to climb Mana (7273 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya during August-September 1988. The team comprised of 21 Indian (13 climbing and 8 support) and 13 US Army members. The expedition was the first joint venture with the US Army. It made a route through the southern approach (Nagthuni glacier). The expedition put 25 climbers on top of Mana peak within a record period of 19 days after leaving road head.

Mana Peak

Mana peak is located 16 km north of Badrinath shrine in the Garhwal Himalaya. Kamet and Abi Gamin are to the north, Mukut Parbat to the north-northwest and Nilkanth in the southwest. There are two approaches to Mana peak. One is the eastern approach through East Kamet glacier. The other is the southern approach through Nagthuni and Bank Kund glacier. So far Mana peak had been climbecj twice by the eastern approach in 1966 and 1988 and once by the southern approach by Frank Smythe in 1937.

Base camp "Was a two day march from the roadhead Mana village. The team moved along the eastern bank of the Saraswati river from Mana village. The intermediate BC (3650 m) was established slightly ahead of Gurvia gad. IBC was three to four hours walking distance from the roadhead Mana village.

Beyond IBC, the approach was through steep rocky slopes as the track moves right along the Nagthuni gad. The team had to go through the Nagthuni glacier lateral moraine before reaching the base camp (4420 m). The base camp was located at the confluence of the north and south Nagthuni glaciers. By 30 August all climbing members and most of the stores had reached the base camp. *

On 2 September an aerial reconnaissance by helicopter wa,s carried out. During the aerial reconnaissance after crossing the Gupt Khal, Col.Chauhan noticed that the layout of the icefall had considerably changed compared to what he had seen during the aerial reconnaissaince two months ago. More crevasses had opened up and the icefall was looking more broken and unstable. To secure a route through such a broken icefall would be time consuming and the expedition was already one week behind schedule due to road blocks. Negotiating this route meant further delay in reaching the summit.

While flying over the icefall Col. Chauhan noticed that the route through the rock face and the snow/ice ridge and joining the subsidiary peak was much shorter though more difficult.

Establishment of Cl (5425 m)

On 3 September, a team of selected climbers was sent to establish Cl and was instructed to see the possibility of route through the rock face. The route from the base camp to Cl was marked with cairns and red paint through the moraine and with marking flags on the glacier. There were numerous crevasses en route which kept on opening as the expedition progressed. Cl was established on 3 September.

Reconnaissance of the Rock Face Route

On 3 September seven Indians and two Americans left Cl at 0600 hrs under Capt. Charles Roth and Sub. N.B. Gurung. Later Capt. Roth and Sgt. Pelkey went to the Gupt Khal and the climbers negotiated the steep glacier on the left towards the rock face. The rock face was brownish tn colour, broken with, loose rocks. Hav. Rattan Singh Rana and Devi Singh negotiated the rock face with skill. There was a vertical cliff about 15 m high immediately under the sharp ice-ridge leading towards the summit of the subsidiary peak. To circumvent the obstacle Rattan Singh Rana moved a little to the right and then up a very steep rock gully carefully. By 1400 hrs the party had made it to the top of the rock face. The snow and ice-ridge beyond the rock face was very steep and exposed.

The route opening party (six Indian members) left Cl at 0600 hours on 5 September under Nb/Sub Thakur Dass and reached the top of the rock face at 1100 hrs. Hav. Dan Singh, Devi Singh and Lalit Kumar fixed the rope on the steep sharp snow and ice ridge. The snow ridge had a tremendous precipice to the head of I lie Bank Kund glacier and to the left it had a ice-slope. The crest (ormed by the intersection of these two slopes was very thin and iM/or sharp. It was necessary to cut steps on the ridge. Towards the northwest the slope is less steep and the ridge less acute. The summit of the subsidiary peak (6553 m) was an almost level ridge <wd finally it joined the plateau. The party fixed 300 m of rope on the snow-ridge up to the top of the subsidiary peak and they returned to Cl at 1500 hrs.

On 6 September Capt. Roth along with Pelkey, Limbu and Mohinder Singh fixed 200 m of rope above Cl through the rock and ice-gully. On the same day the remaining team moved up from the base camp to Cl.

Establishing C2

On 7 and 8 September the entire team made ferries to C2 which w.ts established on a snow and rock ledge at the bottom of the rock. This was a most sensational camping site. Ice had to be hacked tn prepare tent platforms and even then it could accommodate just three tents.

On 12 September Dan Singh and Ram Phal reached C3. After pttrihlishing the camp they set out to fix the rope upto the saddle On the summit ridge. The slope (300 m high) was an ice-sheet from the base to the crest. Frank Smythe had abandoned this approach th 1937 describing it as more formidable than it appeared. The pair (IximI 300 m of rope and returned to C3. The three Indian members hnil made it directly to C3 from Cl thus gaining more than 1220 in In one day.

First Summit Attempt (13 September)

A strong wind started up at 0400 hrs in the morning. The first mult team was ready at 0600 hrs but they could leave the camp only at 0845 hrs when the wind considerably decreased. Devi and Dan Singh negotiated the sharp steep ridge. They had to negotiate two rock bands and one snow-gully before they reached the heavily corniced summit ridge. They fixed 500 m of rope and then ran short of rppe close to the summit. The American members Capt. Charles Roth and Sgt. Pelkey were below on the 2nd rock band. Sgt. Pelkey was feeling dehydrated and tired and Capt. Roth,- therefore, decided to return to C3. Disappointed, but undeterred, both of them expressed their determination to make it to the summit the next day. The Indian members negotiated the last difficult ridge section with the help of one rope and by 1430 hrs all five climbers were standing on the top of Mana peak. The first team reached the summit on the 16th day after the expedition was launched from the roadhead.

7 Indians and 2 Americans climbed by the same route to the top on 14 September. And again on the 15th, 4 Americans and 7 Indians reached the summit. No more attempts could be made as the weather had deteriorated.

On 16 September the third summit team had to plough through ankle deep fresh snow to reach the subsidiary peak and negotiate the steep ridge carefully while descending to C2. It was snowing heavily on the night of 17th September. A decision was taken to abandon Cl. Hav. Dan Singh, Hav. Devi Singh and Nk. Lalit Kumar volunteered to go up the ridge (above the rock face) to remove the fixed ropes and retrieve the stores left at C2. It was a very courageous act, especially when the expedition was almost over. They had to climb up to 6500 m, and remove the ropes and carabiners from the rock face and steep snow-ridge, which was very dangerous especially due to the heavy snowfall. This action helped the American team to retrieve their equipment.

By evening of 18 September the entire team was back at the base camp.

Members: Col. H. S. Chauhan (leader) and 12 Indian army officers and jawans. C.W.O. Robert A. Wood and 12 U.S. army officers and some of other ranks.

Summary: The ascent of Mana (7273 m) by the joint Indian and U.S. army team. 26 persons climbed the peak via the southern approaches over Gupta Khal on 13, 14 and 15 September 1988. This was only the second ascent up the route taken by Frank Smythe in 1937.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

7. MERU SHARK'S FIN
British Mem Expedition to East Face, 1993

PAUL PRITCHARD

ARRIVING ON 20 AUGUST 1993 in Delhi we suffered the fate of countless expeditions before us — a ruthless battering at the hands of the Indian bureaucracy. A none too subtle combination of enervating Delhi heat, bureaucratic tedium and-gastronomical warfare saw the tearh morale falling to a dismal low point. Dealings with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation were no more enlightening save for meeting our liaison officer, Parag Pendharkar. Parag was a real light in this sea of madness — a genial and humble fellow, he became a close companion to us all and with luck we will be climbing together in the future.

Escaping Delhi's humid clutches we travelled the wild roads off the plains into the foothills of the Himalaya. We stopped in Uttarkashi to complete our provisioning. The reality of the Himalaya was soon stunningly apparent following the path of the pilgrims up the precipitous canyons of the Bhagirathi we could only gasp and fumble for adjectives that failed to hit the mark. Acclimatisation for the group went on at vastly different rates — with only two of the five having any previous altitude experience the all too sobering headaches and vomiting soon had three members chained to buckets and no doubt questioning the wisdom of altitude mountaineering. The formation of the Llanberi's Low Altitude mountaineering society was inaugurated in a sort of Crimean death ward halfway up the approach march.

In the interim Dave and Phillip completed the load hauling to advance base (5000 m) — a task which had them certainly contemplating the relative joys of oedema. The first sight of Meru's east face was enough to make any self respecting alpinist reach into the bag of a thousand excuses. The 1500 m wall has resisted all attempts to climb it directly, claimed numerous lives and reigns inviolate alongside its neighbour Shivling. A harsh combination of loaded avalanche couloirs, extreme mixed climbing and technical wall climbing has ensured that the by now annual pilgrimage of top alpinists return home vanquished. Although we were to reach way higher than any previous attempts, our fate was to be no different from our predecessors. Meru's east face and more specifically the 'Shark's Fin' remains one of the supreme alpine challenges demanding a high degree of ice and mixed climbing skill with the technical crux— a 500 m vertical sword of granite situated at the top of the route.

We were not alone in our attempts to climb this face — an American team arrived to try a line right of ours. They were veterans of a previous expedition to Meru and of substantial alpine and altitude experience. The .weather through the initial period was excellent — mild temperatures and minimal snow pack meant the approach to the wall was both easy and safe, alas the moment we were finally ready to go onto the wall the fateful monsoon struck out — two torrential storms dumped four feet of snow on the route consecutively. For two weeks we were confined to our tents in a Patagonian misery — hundreds of people were killed in landslides and floods in the valleys below. Hailed as the worst monsoon in 50 years such cries did little to ease our frustration. In the breaks in the weather we bouldered on Tapovan meadow's awesome granite — in fact our team was probably more successful in this realm than up high. Whole days were passed in furious effort on what must be one of the world's top bouldering locations. Johnny boggled all with some fine 8 a/b problems — certainly the Americans failed to see the attraction of two digit dynos and merely shook their heads in disbelief.

The weather finally cleared but now we were crippled by a dangerously loaded avalanche slope leading 1000 m up to the fin. Whilst the Americans' gully had already avalanched. ours remained perilously poised to go and we could only wait for the pack to settle. We had already cached one haul bag 500 m up the 50 degree slope on a protected shoulder — our aim was always to go alpine style yet carry 500 m of rope with which to fix ahead (capsule style) In this way we wouldn't have to move camp every morning nor would we be bound to using portaledges on the headwall. Dave had by this stage taken the weighty decision to stay off the slope so on the evening of the 23rd the remaining four of us staggered up to begin the route. The climb up to the shoulder (halfway up the gully 5500 m) under headlamp wasn't technically demanding (45-50 degrees) but the combination of avalanche danger and heavy loads took a heavy toll. By morning it was snowing again and Noel was suffering from altitude. We dug a snow cave while Noel descended to recover. Later on it cleared sufficiently for the remaining three (Paul, Phillip and Johnny) to fix the next 350 m of the gully. What had appeared an easy angle from below turned out to be 60-70 degree water ice — some excellent climbing ensued though notable for an absence of ice protection. The following day spent in the tight confines of the snow cave as it snowed and blew continuously — it was in a sense fortunate as it gave us a chance to recover — the workload of five was being divided between three and in the'eight days around and above 6000 m we were to feel the strain.

Leaving the relative comfort of the shoulder we staggered up the fixed lines with all our bivvy gear, food and fuel for 14 days and an extensive aid rack — the horror scenario for any alpine wall. Phillip led the final 3 pitches to the head of the gully — more excellent water ice at angles over 70 degrees providing interesting lung and calf pains. The snow cave carved out of a 50 degree slope at the head of the gully was to be our home for the next four days as we fixed line up the rock ramp and mixed sections to the base of the fin proper. Poor communication with Noel saw a lot of wasted effort retrieving the fixed line from below — although we left the line down for two more days, sadly Noel was unable to reach us and we were forced to continue without him. Some hard rock climbing pitches with complex route finding brought us up the ramp to the next mixed section. Johnny came into his own here leading two E5/6b pitches — no mean feat at 6000 m.

On the sixth day Paul led a solid grade six mixed pitch up an eighty degree gully bringing us finally to the base of the fin. The cumulative stress of leading complicated and hard pitches at high altitudes for a week was beginning to show — our meagre diet and the altitude meant we weren't recovering at all. Disaster struck in the simplest yet most damning of mistakes on the seventh morning — Johnny dropped his plastic boot. With only one stove and all our fixed line exhausted we all had to move up to the next camp, we were left with one gloomy option. Paul and Phillip continued up on the seventh day to check out the line for future reference but the route was essentially over and" it remained only to get Johnny safely down the gully without boot or crampon.

This wasn't a fait accompli for the pack snow cracked loud and ominously as we placed three of the descending belays. Whilst descending unroped on the final section Johnny slipped and fell 180 m to stop short of a large crevasse — a lucky end to our attempt. We had been on the wall for eight days; with 400 m of technical rock to the summit and 6 days food left it's a moot point whether we would have made it up. In truth the point doesn't bear discussion what In more important is our determination to return and climb this incredible Wall. Certainly it poses challenges equal to any in the world — a fine combination of complex route finding, technical rock and ice and Immense endurance. Meru's east face remains unclimbed for yet another KiMson; we have been served an excellent lesson in alpine humility and all in all little has changed in the Gangotri valley.

Members: Noel Craine, Paul Pritchard, Johnny Dawes, Philip Lloyd and Dave Kendall.

Summary: An attempt on the east face of Meru south (6660 m) in the Gangotri valley, by an British expedition in September 1993. They reached 6200 m.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

8. SARASWATI PEAK

REIKO TERASAWA Translated by Eri Kusuda

SARASWATI VALLEY LIES to the west of Kamet in the north Garhwal. This was the trade route between India and Tibet over the Mana pass. After the 1962 Indo-Chinese war, this area was forbidden to all outsiders. In 1992 we were lucky to be allowed to go to this area near the Indo-Tibet border.

Our peak was the unnamed point 6940 m on the border itself. We called it 'Saraswati' after the goddess of learning. ours was a joint ladies' expedition with the Himalayan Association of Japan and the Indo-Tibet Border Police joining up once again.

Saraswati peak (6940 m) rising from Balbala glacier.

Saraswati peak (6940 m) rising from Balbala glacier. (R. Terasawal)

Saraswati peak

Saraswati peak

We gathered at Delhi on 19 April 1992. We started our walk IhiI we had many difficulties in organising porters and we reached ©ur base camp on 6 August. The base camp was settled on the Itiowine of the Balbala glacier (5160 m). We had now only 19 {Irtvs left for climbing the peaks, but we were fit and the weather excellent. We all made heavy ferries ahead overcoming the difficulties. The Japanese and the Indian members soon became good friends singing in chorus every evening.

On 9 August we established Cl (5420 m) on the left bank of the glacier. C2 (5730 m) was at the foot of the Peak 6775 m. After making a route through an icefall, we returned to the base camp for rest. Plans were made for the first summit team consisting of all India members to move on the 15th, but the weather deteriorated and they had to wait.

On the 17th, C3 (6450 m) was established on the ridge between the summit and the 'Schlagintweit pass' (6236 m). The Schlagintweit brothers had crossed over this pass from Tibet after their attempt on Abi Gamin in 1855. No other party has reached this pass since then. On 18 August the Indian party left C3 in foggy weather. They waited for an hour on the ridge near the summit. At last as the weather cleared they reached the top at 4.00 p.m. On 19 August the Japanese party also reached the top, climbing in a white-out from the summit. We could see the northern and the western slopes falling steeply. This was a very happy moment for us.

Members: Santosh Yadav, (leader), Reiko Terasawa (Japanese leader) Rita Patel, (doctor) Alpana Pangtey, (LO), Takako Kato, Mayumi Shirasawa, Emiko Yamaguchi, Yoshie Kameda, Eri Kusuda (Japanese), Jyotica Negi, Bhanita Timungpi, Mamuta Thakur (Indian).

Summary: The first ascent of 'Saraswati' (6940 m) in Garhwal by the Indo-Japanese Ladies' Expedition. The summit was climbed on 18 and 19 August, 1992.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

9. ON SWARGAROHIM I

AKE NILSSON

IN THE POST-MONSOON season of 1989 our Indo-Swedish expedition managed to put two members on top of Swargarohini II, but we failed in the main objective of climbing the elusive main peak of the massif. That time we had our base camp at Ruinsara and attempted the mountain from the western side. Our initial intention had actually been to climb on the south face but somehow our attention got diverted, maybe we simply followed the law of least resistance and went for the nearest route.

We didn't want to leave the project unfinished, in 1991 we started planning for another attempt and eventually made a booking for May-June 1993. Four members of the previous expedition were on the team; Mandip Singh Soin, Charu Sharma, Birger Andren and myself. Somewhere along the line by wife Ingela decided to join as a climbing member rather than spending several anxious weeks in Sweden or in base camp waiting for my safe return. Eventually two more Swedes, Olle Edlund and Kjell Sundqvist, joined the team. To our great distress, both Mandip and Charu had to pull out for professional reasons and thus the expedition suddenly became a Swedish one. Mandip, however, still had a part in the whole thing by extending the logistical services of Ibex Expeditions. Brij Choudhry accompanied us as liaison officer, and nine trekkers joined us for the walk-in; several of them would be staying at base camp throughout the expedition. We were searching frantically to find a doctor who could take up the responsibility of being the expedition's medical officer. We found Dr. Nanda Kishore from Madras, a young man who was happy to combine the chores of dressing sore feet and doling out stomach pills with more interesting activities such as sneaking up on rare birds and ibex with his telephoto lens.

We left Delhi on 15 May, reached the road head at Sankri two days later and established base camp at Kiarkoti on the 20th after four days of pleasant trekking through an area that was just waking up after the winter. I was pleasantly surprised to find Kiarkoti even more pleasant than Ruinsara. The whole area above Osla has now been made a national park, a most laudable initiative which will hopefully mean that this fragile and beautiful environment can be preserved for future generations.

But we didn't have much time to idle around. The day after establishing base camp we started recceeing for a route on the south face. We were first thinking of the route that Had been climbed by the team from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in 1990, but we found that a bit suicidal with too many things coming down the chute below the col between Swargarohini I and IV. Instead we shifted our attention to the rock ridge immediately to its left. This leads up to a huge rock pinnacle which we thought could be climbed on its centre and left side. That would bring us to a snowfield bridging over to a gully leading up to the ESE ridge of the peak through an opening in the massive wall of steep ice that rims the face. That upper part of the face had been reached by Arun Samant's team from Bombay in 1991 after they had climbed another rock ridge more to the left (H.J. Vol. 48).

Next day we established ABC at 5000 m on the ridge, and the following day we moved up with the intention of staying up there for one night. We were to sleep there for eight consecutive nights!

During this time we did the ridge all the way up to the rock pinnacle which we climbed according to our plan. Ingela did all the lead climbing on these rocks which are quite steep and terribly loose. After four days of climbing and rope fixing we reached a high point at the pinnacle bat to^ our dismay we didn't find the snowfield we had expected; instead we found ourselves looking down into the hugest of bergschrunds, a bottom-less pit of rotten rock and gargantuan brown icicles.

We then decided to retrace our steps and shift our route to a steep ice-ridge to the right of the pinnacle. We had some apprehensions about it not being safe for avalanches from the ice-walls above, but since we hadn't actually seen anything coming down on that particular place we decided to go for it. It took us two days of reccee and climbing to reach the top of the ice ridge where we dumped a bivvy tent and some food. From there we could see our previous high point on the pinnacle and we concluded that we had climbed too much to the east on the rock pinnacle earlier; had we kept more to the left when climbing we would have hit the snowfield we had been looking for.

SWARGAROHIM I ROUTE

SWARGAROHIM I ROUTE

After a day of rest at ABC we started for a summit attempt on 31 May. The day was beautiful, the sun rays hit us just as we reached the point where we started to traverse right from the rock ridge to reach the bottom of the ice ridge. Just before 06.00 I reached ,i small ice-wall at the bottom of trie ridge. Birger and Ingela were i bit ahead. Suddenly I could see them looking anxiously up the face. A second later they threw themselves down to the spot were I was and another few seconds later we were in the middle of an Inferno of falling ice. The ice-walls some 700 m above us had dropped <i few tons of ice, and big chunks were now crashing down just <i few feet away from us. Luckily the ice-wall provided perfect protection as we stood huddled together waiting for the avalanche to subside. When it had, and. after we had got our hearts back in place we started assessing our position. Were the Gods sitting up there with their finger on the trigger just waiting for the perfect opportunity l0 scare us off the mountain ? If so, they were quite successful. At li'.ist temporarily. We decided that this was definitely not a safe rpute, went down to ABC and later in the day when the weather turned really bad, we went all the way down to base camp.

It took a day of rest and innumerable pancakes with jam and i ream to recuperate and pep us up again. Next day we were up In ABC with the intention of getting back on the original route on tlw pinnacle now that we thought we knew how to get round it. Two days later saw us just one pitch below the point where we IHHumed we could get onto the snowfield. We decided to go for n new summit attempt the following day. By that time we had moved some of our gear from ABC up to an AABC further up the rock ifldge In order to save time.

We left ABC on 5 June for our second summit attempt. This time we managed to get it right on the pinnacle and late that afternoon wr could pitch our two bivvy tents on, the snowfield. One of the lunts was actually the one we had pitched above the ice ridge a few days earlier; it turned out that our bivvy spot was only some IB0 in above it and we could easily go down and pick it up.

Early next day we traversed the snowfield up to the ice-gully. Now it was Birger's turn to do the lead climbing on this sometimes very steep ice. The lower section consists of small ice-walls and crevasses which can be circumvented quite easily by traversing left and right. After five pitches we reached the crux of the ice-climb which is at a level where the gully leads through an opening in the ice-wall barrier. From here there are two steep ice-pitches and then two more easily angled ones at the top of the gully. All in all nine excellent pitches of ice, the upper ones with a fantastic exposure; the entire south face is beneath one's, feet when looking down. Unfortunately the weather turned really bad around noon just as we had reached the crux pitch; a hail storm that lasted an hour and subsequent spin drift that insisted on finding its way beneath our clothes reduced the level of elevation that we would otherwise have reached. The climb took us all day and at around 5.30 we pitched our two tents in a snow-filled crevasse just below the ESE ridge. The weather was still lousy when we got into our sacks and we were a bit worried; should the weather turn bad now that we were so close?

I woke up as always at 02.00. After having shouted to Birger in the other tent to get the stove burning, I eagerly opened the tent to have a look. I was overwhelmed by the fantastic scenery; the sky was perfectly clear, we were on top of the world and the beautiful peaks under and around us were sleeping in the cold blue light of the moon and the stars. It was pure magic.

After three hours of getting up, getting fed and getting the gear together we finally left the bivvy at 05.00. The weather was still absolutely perfect and after having climbed up the first snow slopes we were greeted by the first sun rays after having reached the ridge proper. The rest of the ridge was a cake walk in pleasant weather and with good snow conditions. We took turns in the lead, Ingela being there most of the time though. After almost two hours of climbing on the safe and easy slopes we got the first glimpse of the summit. Now we knew that we would reach it, there was nothing in between that could possibly stop us. We reached the summit slope at around 08.30 and after a short break we started the final ascent up the comparatively steep summit slope. At 09.00 on 7 June, 1993, we reached the summit of Swargarohini I.

The summit is a precious pearl as peaks go; there is a tremendous exposure down the drop to the Har-ki-doon valley on the northern side, and its elevation above the snow ridge we had just climbed makes it a place where one feels on top of everything. We were unusually lucky since the weather was so pleasant, and we were in no hurry to get back to our bivvy since we would not be going further down that day.

The elation we had felt earlier during our dimb was nothing compared to this. The sky was still perfectly clear and we could see deep into Tibet on our northern side. We could recognize Kamet and Mukut Parbat in the northeasterly direction, and in the east we could see the familiar peaks of the Gangotri region, most prominently Thalay Sagar and Bhrigupanth. And very close to us in the westerly direction was of course the subsidiary peak of Swargarohini II where Birger had been standing less than four years earlier, frustrated with being so close and yet having to give up.

Meru, ‘Shark’s Fin’. American route of attempt on right.

45. Meru, ‘Shark’s Fin’. American route of attempt on right.
Note 7 (Paul Pitchard)

Kokshane, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

46. Kokshane, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.
Note 10 (Harish Kapadia)

Zangshu peak, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

47. Zangshu peak, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

We spent 1½ hours on the summit taking pictures and filming. And there was enough time for us to just sit down and look around.

We had no intention of reaching swarga (heaven) though, we were quite content with reaching our bivvy and getting into our sleeping <igs. The descent from the summit to the bivvy took only half an liour and we stayed in the bags for about 14 hours before starting flown the ice-gully the following morning. Nothing remarkable happened the way down, we reached the ABC safely in the early afternoon .md base camp at around 16:30 where we got ourselves deeply involved In a new session of pancakes with jam and'cream.

Summary: The second ascent of Swargarohini I (6252 m) by I he Swedish expedition on 7 June 1993.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

10. WHAT DID YOU DO IN SORANG VALLEY?

HARISH KAPADIA

‘ ‘ WHEN THEY WERE ON T0P" asked Sally, after hearing about Everest, "could they touch the sky?"

"No, Sally," rather apologetically.

"Well," after some hard thinking,

"They couldn't have been very high, could they?"

Charles Evans

(Eye on Everest)

As I returned from a two week trek to the Sorang valley, in Kinnaur w.is piqued by the situation I faced.

'What did you do in the Sorang valley ?' my two sons, Sonam fttl Nawang asked me.

'Wi'll we trekked in relatively unknown area, enjoyed the scenery.....,' I was interrupted abruptly.

Thats fine. But what did you do there? Explored new passes, nuraphed high and famous mountains, achieved a great rescue climbed any peaks?'

"Nothing of the sort. We simply enjoyed ourselves.'

'That means you did nothing', Sonam added emphatically in the tone of a person whose holiday had been snatched away due to my trip.

I was reminded of the American war movie where a young child persistently asked his father, a World War II veteran; 'What did you do in the war, daddy?' But that young child (or Sally) was a far cry from these two strong, vacation-deprived boys of mine. So I sat down explaining my trip to them.

We reached Sarhan (2165 m) via Shimla. The ancient Bhimkali temple was livened up by its backdrop, the view of Gushu Pishu (5672 m) and Srikand Mahadev (5222 m). We started our trek from Chaura, a little ahead on the National Highway to Kinnaur. 14 km to Rupi village (2350 m) was covered in 6 hours and we settled down at, what someone had called, 'the best rest house in Kinnaur'. Going through the bungalow register was rewarding. The first entry logged was on 12 November 1915. H. M. Glover (a contributor to early Himalayan Journals) and Mrs. Glover had stayed here from 22 to 26 October 1916. Their article on the trip appeared in the H.J. Vol. II. G. D. Kichingman, was another famous forester who had stayed here in 1922. N. D. Jayal, District Commissioner, Kinnaur, and his wife, had paid Rs. 2 for their stay in 1961. In red ink below his entry it said 'Re. 1 refunded by Money Order for excess paid.' Capt. W. F. Chipps had stayed here many times between 1920-1930. The charges were 50 paise for officials on duty and Re. 1 for others. Now it is Rs. 10 and Rs. 75 respectively. The only entry relating to mountains was by B. B. Negi (11 July 1974). 'Met team from Calcutta "The Trekkers". Claimed to have climbed Kosh Hane isid Not believable'. Deepak Sanan, the present District Commissioner's entry here was on 22 October 1992, and below that another entry slyly stated 'On confidential duty'. We entered our names in the famous book on 14 May 1993 and went about our non-confidential work, Rupi was a group of four villages, all equally non-cooperative unfortunately. Our initial inquiry about porters bore no fruit. Finally we saw a mistry (carpenter) working hard near our bungalow. The job of tackling him was taken up by our Mistry (Kaivan). 'Poor fellow will be now tempted into submitting to carry loads', Nawang murmured.

That's exactly what Kaivan did. For the better part of the day he brainwashed him, raising the bait a little at a time. Finally a visit to his house in the evening settled the issue.

The next day a motley party crossed the ridge behind the village to descend to the Sorang valley. For two days through incessant rain we stayed in thick forest af Dumti (2650 m — 7 km) and Rakpatang (2840 m — 4 km) (the place of the cave). Heavy snowfall trapped us and the temptations of the mistry ended here. Our porters left us in the cave and ran home. This rock cave became our headquarters in the valley.

'But how did you pass your time in this cave?', I was asked searchingly again.

It was evidently the home of a bear. By evening we saw the black bear on the opposite bank. Luckily it completely ignored us and for almost two hours went about its business as if we did not exist. Next morning a musk deer was sighted and it disappeared as soon as we could photograph it. Monal, vultures and other birds freely roamed in the forest consisting of apricot, pine, deodar and juniper trees in the upper reaches. But there was nothing we could 'do' except enjoy ourselves.

We moved up, just because we had to. Ringvichina (3435 m — 6 km) and Palit (3835 m — 6 km) were camping grounds for shepherds. The ring of peaks surrounding the upper valley, near Zangshu glacier were steep and challenging. Gushu Pishu (5672 m), Kokshane (5625 m) and the Unnamed peak (5695 m) formed a drcque. These peaks are not for anyone in hurry and would test the best of alpinists. They are a tempting objective if height is not a criteria.

We returned to the cave and descended now straight down along the valley instead of crossing over to Rupi. Two days walking amidst dense forest and we reached Sorang Dogri (2340 m — 14 km) <i small hamlet, and on to Bara Kamba (2000 m — 6 km), a largish village with a rest house. Bo,th the villages were extremely friendly in sharp contrast with Rupi. We crossed the Satluj and reached the National Highway at Nyugalsari (1400 m — 5 km), ending our nine-day trek.

'So you did not climb any peaks ? Did not even attempt them ? What did you do anyway? Questions were unending.

Answers were not forthcoming.

We enjoyed the forest, the wild life, the snow views and came lidck in better health. That's not 'doing anything anyway.'

Members: Harish Kapadia, Kaivan Mistry and Ashwin Popat.

Summary: A trek to the Rupi-Sorang valley to Zangshu glacier In outer Kinnaur, from 10 May to 22 May 1993.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

11. PIN VALLEY NATIONAL PARK AND ITS WILDLIFE

YASH VEER BHATNAGAR

WE HAD BEEN walking for the past five and a half hours over not so difficult ground but still most of us were quite exhausted in the rarefied atmosphere of 3700 m. We had covered almost 15 km from Mikim to our base camp at Thango, but still had not laid eyes on the animal we were going to work on for the next three years. It was not going to be that disappointing as right behind Thango we finally saw a group of twelve Ibex, locally called Kin.

The Himalayan Ibex (Capra ibex sibirica), a wild goat species is one among the five recognised sub-species of ibex found in the Alps and Caucasus mountains (Europe), Semian mountains (Ethiopia) and the Nubian desert (Israel). This sub-species spreads out from the Hindu Rush, southeast through the Karakoram and Pir Panjal to the Satluj gorge in Kinnaur (Himachal Pradesh); northeast it extends into the Altai and Tien Shan mountain system in China upto the Sayan mountains in Russia. The Himalayan Ibex male usually stands 100 cm at the shoulder while the female is smaller. The scimitar horns of an adult male can go up to almost 150 cm and the animal can weigh upto 100 kg. The female is lighter and has smaller, straighter horns.

My colleague Ms. Nima Manjrekar and I are working on the project 'Ecology and Genetics of Ibex in India' co-sponsored by the Wildlife Institute of India (WII), Dehra Dun, World Wide Fund for Nature, International and PL-480. Our study site, Pin valley National Park (NP) is located a little north of the Pir Panjal range bordering Kullu and Kinnaur in the Lahul and Spiti district of the Himachal Pradesh. The area was proposed as a NP by the Government in 1987 but since then as the rights of the resident people have not yet been settled, it remains a 'proposed National Park'. The core zone of the NP covers an area of almost 675 km2 with a buffer zone of about 1,150 km2 which is meant to reduce human pressures on the core zone. The Rupi-Bhaba Wildlife Sanctuary lies to its south and the Great Himalayan NP to its southwest. The Bara Shigri glacier forms part of the northern boundary of the park which continues along the Hundungma ridge separating the Spiti and Pin valley watersheds. The buffer zone is mostly on the eastern side of the park, the area which has all the human habitation. It extends northwards into the Spiti river and eastwards upto where th,c Tipta nala meets the Spiti river. The altitude within this region varies from 3600 m to 6632 m.

The Pin valley can boast of being moister during the summer months <ind having a high winter snowfall, in sharp contrast to much of the remnant arid Spiti. It is hence much greener with over 400 plant species which include such attractive plants as Geraniums, Potentillas, Kdelweiss, Pinks, Columbines, Gentians, Bell flowers and Primulas.

The area is home to, among others, the majestic Himalayan Ibex, the elegant Snow Leopard, Red Fox, Pika and Weasels. The Lammergeier, I limalayan Griffon, Golden Eagle, Chukar Partridge, Himalayan Snow cock and a host of Rose Inches are among the variety of avifauna of the area.

I liked the Himalaya since childhood but it almost became a passion liy the time I was doing a Master's in Wildlife Science at WII. I longed to work in the Himalaya and got an opportunity when this project commenced in October 1991. My frequent travels in the Himalaya covered quite a bit of the middle and lower Himalaya but this was the first time I was to visit a trans-himalayan, cold desert region. I had read articles and seen pictures of the area but still didn't have .i 'feel' of it. On 19 October 1991 night, the night of the disastrous Wrtarkashi earthquake our team reached Guling, the roadhead of Pin v.illey. Next day was that tiring walk to Thango I had mentioned lit the onset.

I was awe-struck by the sheer barren beauty of the region — the deep blue sky, the towering snow-covered mountains, huge cliffs, .(Tee slopes, the numerous folded sediments — their colours ranging from white, yellowish brown, dark brown, grey, black, magenta to iven orange. The azure blue waters of the Pin and Parahio rivers were so unlike the ruddy, turbid waters of the rivers lower down. For the first time in my life I experienced temperatures as low as minus 13°C.

Unfortunately due to the lack of sufficient equipment we could not upend the winter here and had to return to Dehra Dun in early December. I was eager to experience my first winter in 1992-93 nl Gechang, my new camp site. It was going to be an exhilarating experience for me. The area was known to experience temperatures es low as minus 38°C to minus 40°C with more than 2 m snowfall during winter. However, most of December passed without any snowfall with the temperatures touching minus 18°C on some days. The Ibex had acquired their beautiful, dark, thick winter coats. The adult males were dark brown to black all over, except the upper neck, back and leys in patches, where they were white. The females and young were 11 uniform dark brown all over. The body reserves of the Ibex were at their best and it would not be wrong to say that some males even looked obese. By mid-November the first signs of rut (mating season) were visible with the large males starting to clash in grand battles for dominance. One male would go up slope, rear on its hind leg§, run and then land with great force on the lowered horns of the other male. The clash would often resound for even a kilometre around. This is invariably followed by a kind of wrestling until one accepts defeat. The victor will always get first access to mate an oestrous female. Ibex, like other members of the family Bovidae have an elaborate courtship display. The rutting period continued till almost December end.

On the last two days of December it snowed heavily. The whole area glowed white from valley bottom to the peaks. It was a sight to behold. Winter had begun. Most of the Ibex now split into small groups and fed mostly by digging up the plants beneath the snow. The months between January and April, when the temperatures are low and the poor quality forage is beneath snow, is the 'critical period' for Ibex. By the end of this season their body condition is at its poorest. In May and June Ibex form large groups and forage over a vast area at the lower altitudes, feeding mainly on succulent, nutritious sprouts. With the summer setting in during July, it is time for parturition and the pregnant females move up into the inaccessible terrain in small groups while the large males now separate out into what is often called 'all male' or 'bachelor groups'. During the period from j July to September Ibex feed on the nutritious forage at higher altitudes and by October they are back to the middle altitudes forming the mixed sex groups again. Soon the rut will set in and the cycle continues. ]

Now we have entered the third and the last year of our field work. Besides the field-work, I have tried out my hand at some mountaineering and rock climbing with our field assistants. We reached a couple of 5200 m peaks around Gechang. It involved some tough climbing over rocks and even worse, over shale scree. Whatever it is, the sheer grandeur of the 360° view and the sense of achievement is heartening. Now I want to scale newer heights. I see the unnamed 'Matterhorn like' peak in the upper catchment of the Kidul chu river and think some day.....

I often sit alone and enjoy the never ending beauty of this region. The numerous ammonite, cephalopode and trilobite fossils enchant me. I wonder about the great force that has crumpled and heaved the ocean bed to such heights. Truly, Nature and the Himalaya are transcendental.

Summary: A note on the wildlife in Spiti. The author lives in the remote Pin valley, Spiti, to study the habits of Ibexes.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

12. LAYUL PASS, 1985
Barashigri Glacier Expedition

SHAMSHER SINGH

FOR SOME TIME our members had been keen to organise an expedition cum trek which would prove challenging and which would build on the basic training received by a number of individuals. After much discussion a decision was taken to cross the Gunther's Pass1 a pass from the Bara Shigri to Tichu nala. This route won out over other contenders as, to our knowledge, the pass was as yet uncrossed and ours would be a pioneering effort. The altitude, while not extreme at 5635 m would be sufficient to test the mettle of the men.

We left Keylong on 3 August 1985. On 4th August we set off towards the harsh landscape ahead and making good time, reached the foot of the Bara Shigri glacier.

Going up the glacier we reached Concordia the next day. It is breathtaking. Four glaciers meet here, flowing together through dark, silent mountains. Alternating longitudinal stripes of brilliant white ice and dark debris. We camped at about .4700 m near a clear tarn in the middle of the glacier — this being the safest place.vThe glacier which we were to climb to reach Gunther's pass was visible, but the pass itself was hidden from view by mist and fog. During the night the temperature dropped below freezing and in the morning we had to use ice axes on the surface of the pond before we could get water.

1. Note: This deep col is situated on the Bara Shigri-Tichu nala divide. It is known as 'Gunther's Col' as A.E. Gunther had observed it from the Bara Shigri glacier. (1953) Gunther neither reached or crossed it. (Alpine Journal, Vol. 59, p. 288). Various parties climbing on the Bara Shigri have identified this prominent col. It was reached in 1956 by the Abinger Himalayan expedition (Joyce Dunsheath, H.J.Vol.XX, p. 104). Again in 1961, Joss Lynam reached the col (H.J. Vol. XXIII, p. 56). In the same year the Derbyshire Himalayan Expedition reached the upper neve on the Tichu side of this col but did not climb upto it. (H.J. Vol. XXIII, p. 124).

The present party was the first to cross it, in 1985. They have called it 'Layul Pass' (Layul is the old name of Lahul). As the Survey of India does not accept individual names (Gunther's Col) this name (Layul Pass) is retained here. — Editor.

At about 9.30 a.m. (6 August) we began a reconnoitering climb on the glacier. We found a flat spot on the glacier and decided to move osmp there so that we could cross the pass in the early hours of the morning and perhaps have time to explore the path towards the Tichu glacier on the other side. After lunch it took two hours to relocate our camp at the new site (5000 m). It was snowing heavily and we had to clear the tents every hour or so. Our main fear now was the possibility of an avalanche and the worry that if the weather didn't clear we would have to remain in this place. Crossing the pass in this weather was out of the question and going back would be too dangerous.

The 7th was a fine clear day. After a hurried breakfast we began the ascent to the pass at about 7.30 a.m. We were all roped up, wary of hidden crevasses, and tiring quickly as we moved through the 5-10 inches of fresh snow. These last 600 m took two hours even though the last part of the climfr is a gradual ascent. We spent about half an hour on the pass, looking down on the clearly visible Tichu glacier and taking photographs. One side of the pass has a cliff of 200 m looking over it. in contrast to the other which slopes qently away.

Looking SE to an unnamed peak from Layul pass.

Looking SE to an unnamed peak from Layul pass. (Shamsher Shing)

Peaks of Gangdari Dhar, Kinnaur.

48. Peaks of Gangdari Dhar, Kinnaur. R to L: Hansbeshan (5240 m) and peak 5236 m.
Note 10 (Harish Kapadia)

Gushu (5602 m) and Pishu (5672 m) Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

49. Gushu (5602 m) and Pishu (5672 m) Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

Shamdal and Jhandyoday, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.

50. Shamdal and Jhandyoday, Sorang valley, Kinnaur.
Note 10 (Harish Kapadia)

Bhimkali temple, Sarhan, Kinnaur.

51. Bhimkali temple, Sarhan, Kinnaur.

It took us another two hours to reach the foot of Tichu glacier and after a difficult hour during which both Samsher and Norboo Pans ended up in crevasses, we stopped for lunch. This was also an opportunity to dry out our wet tents, sleeping bags and clothing. At about 4.00 p.m. we started again, this time over loose stones. By 7.00 p.m. we had reached the end of the glacier and set up camp. We were all elated that,we had made it across without mishap.

On the 8th, we moved at 6.00 a.m. Our path was now a narrow track along the right bank of the Tichu nala. Grass and shrubs were much in evidence and we also caught sight of the now rare blue poppy. After a time we came to a place called Chanchal by the local people who visit the area to collect herbs. The path suddenly ended and we were staring at a rock face of about 10 m. Fortunately there were some local people gathering herbs. They showed us- what appeared to be an impossible path through the rock, down which they scrambled with bare feet, but without a load. The load was later lowered by rope. It was a terrifying sight to look down some 100 m into the narrow gorge of the Tichu nala.

Three of our members refused the descent, preferring to climb the ridge, a task which was to take them a full day. As we prepared for an exercise in rapelling they set off with just their sleeping bags and a few biscuits. We made our descent without incident and by evening had reached Kolwuti where we were welcomed to the camp of some forest labourers who were engaged in replanting work. The other three members of the party did not arrive till 1.00 p.m. the next day, and they were both exhausted and famished. A rest day was called for. On the 10th, a hot day, we reached Manikaran after a six hour walk on what turned out to be a mule track, ending our venture.

Members: Dr Shamsher Singh (leader), Norboo Pans, Nawang Thwass, Sharub, Gian, Subhash, Raghubir and Norboo.

Summary: The first crossing of 'Layul Pass' (Gunther's Col), 5635 m, in 1985 by an Indian party from Lahul. This pass connects the Bara Shigri glacier with the Tichu nala (Parvati valley).

 

 

⇑ Top

 

13. ON BARA SHIGRI

CHRIS CHEESEMAN

WE FOUND OUT AT A TERRIBLE cost, that even the best laid plans of mice, men and mountaineers can frustrated and laid waste by the inexorable grinding of the bureaucratic wheels of the I.M.F. For some eighteen months, we had planned this expedition, which was originally destined for the Kishtwar Himalaya and Barnaj D -'an impressive looking 6300 m peak that was yet to see a team stand on its main summit. We had even succeeded in obtaining number of photographs and some reasonably good maps to help us on our way. But all of this detailed planning was thwarted by the arrival of a short, yet devastating informative telegram from India — our dreamed of goal was no longer available.

Our desperate search for a new mountain was narrowed down to the -Bara Shigri glacier area in the Lahul valley, Himachal Pradesh region. This was an area of which we knew very little and expenenced an even greater difficulty finding any productive material with which to prepare ourselves. However, we had heard of the famous Papsura and Dharamsura, nestling in that area, so there surely was some hope of good climbing to be had. In fact, our main source o information for this region was obtained from Mehta and Kapadia s Expbnng the Hidden Himalaya, which describes this area as the perfect happy hunting ground for the keen climber. Finally, after weeks of searching and indecision, we decided upon an unnamed and unclimbed peak towards the snout of the Bara Shigri glacier, Pk. 6250. The dates had to be changed as a result, but this ultimately proved to be a blessing in disguise, as it provided us with the valuable extra time that we so badly needed.

Delays in New Delhi attributable to a catalogue of errors arising from incompetence, a lack of preparation and general misunderstanding nearly destroyed the expedition. We were saved by the timely intervention of the IMF and the team left for the bustling hill station of Manali only a few days behind schedule.

Our short stay in Manali was not wasted, as much useful information was obtained from the local people regarding the Bara Shigri glacier, the Chandra river and the Lahul valley. In fact, we obtained much more useful information from these sources than we would ever have derived from any books, maps or guides that were available in England Problems were however encountered when attempts were made to obtain porters for the journey i.e. they were either simply unobtainable (it was the apple harvesting season) or the charge was so unreasonably excessive that there was no possibility of us paying the asking price. With the aforementioned complications and delays causing immense frustration amongst the team, serious deliberations were undertaken to determine the future of the expedition. A plan was formed.

We were to abandon any further attempts to obtain the services of porters in Manali and proceed without delay across the famous RohLg pass in a locally hired jeep, and drive up the Lahul valley -destination Batal. There was even a suggestion that, since the III passes a mere 2-3 km from a possible base camp site, a Tyrolean crossing of the Chandra river could be attempted. To me, that idea was not altogether palatable, especially considering that the bridge that crossed the river at Batal was a mere day's walk away from base camp! If that crossing, as I hoped, was not to be attempted, it was planned that some local assistance would be obtained in order to transport goods and equipment to base camp. With these vague notions and a fully laden jeep, we sallied forth into the mountains!

Lower Bara Shigri Glacier

Lower Bara Shigri Glacier

As the famous Rohtang pass was traversed, the contrast between I the two valleys of Kullu and Lahul took us somewhat by surprise. We had now entered a veritable desert — barely existent vegetation, demanding roads, and icy mountains towering above us on either side of the valley. We were now more excited than ever before, as this was the first close encounter with true Himalayan peaks on I this particular trip. However, the absence of metalled roads did make progress somewhat more uncomfortable and slower (our frequent requests for photograph stops did nothing to speed the journey!)

By early afternoon, we had reached a point on the road that was directly opposite the Bara Shigri glacier and only a few kilometres from the site of our base camp. This was also the very first sighting of our intended goal and the first inkling of the problems we were going to experience. The Chandra river looked ferocious and unrelenting; did we really aspire to a roped crossing ? Dick Mason was confident that a rope bridge could be established and given his previous experience, there was no reason to doubt his conviction. And so it transpired that Dick and James Winspear stayed at this point on the northern side of the river with the majority of the equipment, whilst I heroically volunteered to make my way down the opposite side of the river with barely enough accoutrements to survive a night out and some meagre technical equipment necessary to establish a rope bridge. What a dreadfully exciting adventure this was turning out to be!

It was not until I arrived at Batal to partake of some long-anticipated nourishment that I was told about the so-called Killer nala, that sweeps away people and animals as a fairly regular occurrence. I felt wonderfully reassured. To accompany this delightful morsel of information, many of the locais expressed their surprise that we were arriving to climb the mountains so late in the year as winter was just around th« corner!

To abbreviate what would otherwise be a long story — we dramatically failed to establish a Tyrolean traverse. We came very close and almost succeeded in getting one rope established when it sagged into thy torrent of the Chandra river. I suspect that I expressed a certain degree of relief at not having to cross by such an unreliable method, but it did mean another lonely walk back up the valley towards Batal.

As a result of this second, unplanrjed visit to Batal, we were placed In the fortunate position of meeting a pleasant fellow by the name of Goutam Roy, from Calcutta, who had been loading his team of (limbers on an attempt on CB12 and CB13. In addition to the advantage of meeting and talking with Goutam and his companions, our problem of portering was solved as their horseman agreed to help us to l)<ise camp for a very reasonable cost indeed. Even with these arrangements, i'dch member of the team had to carry some 25 kg of personal load; superb exercise at this altitude!

Base camp was finally and firmly established at an estimated height of 4000 m (with no altimetre and unreliable maps, this was the liest estimate) on a small area of grass amongst an otherwise barren and rocky valley. A small stone wall which provided convenient shelter for cooking, also indicated that this place had been used at some previous time in history as a camp site. This did provide the team with some reassurance and distraction as various abortive attempts were made to reconstruct the partial ruin. The excellent views of (he target mountain that we had enjoyed on our travel towards base camp were now completely obscured by thick and impenetrable cloud. As darkness began to fall, so did the precipitation. We retreated to our tents.

Eager reconnaissance on the Bara Shigri glacier indicated that a considerable number of problems would have to be overcome in order to conquer the peak. The glacier itself was protected by a comprehensive arrangement of ice cliffs supporting teetering boulders that periodically crashed down to join masses of other boulders which had undergone ,i similar fate. It seemed that there were two routes that would avoid the obstacle of the ice cliffs, namely to traverse to the extreme ends of the cliffs on either side of the glacial river. The surface of the ijldcier consisted of unstable mounds, ridges and furrows of unstable rock debris which successfully concealed the true ice surface of the yldder. This had the combined effect of making both navigation and movement across the glacier (especially when carrying full sacks) extremely slow, difficult and hazardous.

We had only been at base camp a few days but on each of those days the clouds returned and heavy precipitation followed. As we were very unfamiliar with the terrain before us and the immediate ijcographical area was still a mystery, it was considered rather unsafe (not to say futile) to explore the area in such poor visibility and weather conditions. Unfortunately, this made progress on the mountain frustratingly slow. We did hope that these weather conditions were the result of a 'bad patch' and would improve, though realistically we suspected that we were a little too late for 'good' climbing weather.

Despite the cynical attitude of the team towards the prevailing weather conditions, reconnaissance efforts proceeded with an admirable degree of enthusiasm. In order to gain an improved vista of the mountain, we toiled up the flank of a small, unmarked hill to an estimated height of 4800 m, whilst reasonable weather and visibility persisted! The view of the mountain now was the most impressive and useful we had seen since our arrival in the Lahul valley — and what a panoramic vista it was! The snow-domed summit was protected on the eastern side by two steeply crevassed glaciers, complete with their own seductively attractive ice cliffs and seracs, and a lower rock spire. The western side, of which we had a brief glimpse on our road journey to Batal, seemed to consist of a complex arrangement of steep cliffs that were undoubtedly beyond our reach, considering the technical equipment available to us on this trip. The southernmost glacier flanking the mountain was itself protected by broken, loose cliffs and steep moraine slopes which would be both difficult and time consuming to overcome (not to say dangerous). Both lateral glaciers were protected at their uppermost reaches by ice cliffs and seracs which were themselves topped by a large snowfield. As the weather once again closed in, we left our vantage point to discuss the implications of our observations.

On this occasion, the rain came as usual, but stayed for several days. This had the net effect of producing misery and lethargy at-base camp, dumping large quantities of snow on the upper slopes of the peak and producing large quantities of mud which nearly had a disastrous result. Dick Mason was attempting to gain access to the Bara Shigri glacier via the eastern 'corridor', when a huge mud slide swept down a large gully and destroyed the path that existed •cross the ice-cliffs. Access to the mountain was now even more complex than ever before, as it was obviously extremely treacherous to get onto the Bara Shigri glacier using the now defunct eastern corridor.

A route across the glacial outwash was eventually navigated in an .itti'mpt to approach the mountain from the western 'corridor', but this made the approach to the mountain even more difficult and time-consuming. At the same time, great concern was being expressed by the team members about the apparently deteriorating weather conditions nnd our rapidly diminishing chances of making any significant progress on the mountain.

The weather continued, stormy and unpredictable. Amidst much discussion and many misgivings, the opportunity for a single alpine-style push was seized in a presumably all too brief window of comparatively >|nod weather. The chosen route was to'approach the mountain itself by gaining the Bara Shigri glacier using the western corridor route to the foot of the northern lateral glacier and move up this sloping glacier and navigate through the complex series of ice-cliffs to the upper snowfield and hence the final summit ridge. As it happened, simply reaching the base of the lateral glacier consumed an entire exhausting day of struggling across loose moraine that climaxed in a cold and depressingly uncomfortable bivouac.

The next day saw the all too familiar early alpine start to move up the seemingly safer and less complex right side of the lateral gl.uier, carrying lighter packs as some equipment was selectively 'dumped'. [Progress seemed painfully slow as a route was navigated between complex glacial features. Despite the recent snowfall at higher altitudes, flu* surface of the glacier was still dry but also strewn with small boulders and avalanche debris, which did give some cause for concern as to the safety of this particular route. The weather was thus far very kind to us with no evidence of cloud build-up, but the temperature was rising and causing the surface of the glacier to melt. Little pools of water collected and small torrents of ice cold water running down the slopes made the description of 'dry' somewhat ironic!

Perhaps the combination of an early start and good acclimatization had helped speed our ascent, but by mid-afternoon we were in a commanding position from which to plan our assault on the major obstacle of the ice-cliffs. The snow slopes above the ice-cliffs were obviously heavily laden with snow from the recent storms and prone to avalanche. The whole mountain took upon itself an altogether less oppressive aspect now that we were actually climbing it, rather than admiring it from a respectfully safe distance! The optimism of the team increased in direct proportion to the height gained on the mountain. We were feeling fit, energetic and extremely hopeful of imminent success and saw no reason why failure should be considered. After all, we were now at a height of 6000 m (estimated) and, with only one major obstacle to overcome and some three hundred meters to climb, what could go wrong?

In almost a single simultaneous moment, everything that could go wrong, did. The storm clouds that had remained absent for three days suddenly made their appearance on the tops, immediately obscuring the summit and making further progress difficult. As if that was not sufficient, the snowladen slopes that were worryingly avalanche-prone did just that — avalanche! Our summit bid had failed, retreat was gallantly executed and the team members were bitterly disappointed.

Once again, the appalling weather persisted and worsened. A number of miserable days were spent languishing pathetically at base camp in the ridiculously vain hope that the weather would clear and allow another summit attempt before we were forced to abandon base camp. However, it was soon realised that this was not to be and the chance passing of some donkey drivers was seized upon as a means of evacuating base camp without undue delay.

The morning of our departure dawned bright and clear. The mountain shone beautifully pristine and fresh in the perfect golden light of morning. We had lost.

Summary: An attempt by a British team on Pk 6250 m on the Bara Shigri glacier in 1992.

Mamostong Kangri I (right) and II (centre).

52. Mamostong Kangri I (right) and II (centre).
Note 15 (Gunther Steinmar)

Mamostong Kangri II, Camp 3.

53. Mamostong Kangri II, Camp 3. Route followed to the summit is beyond the rocky ridge.

Chong Kumdan II from Mamostong Kangri II.

54. Chong Kumdan II from Mamostong Kangri II.

Saser Kangri group from Mamostong Kangri II.

55. Saser Kangri group from Mamostong Kangri II.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

14. CLIMBING IN LITTLE TIBET

DAVID I. MACGREGOR

THIS WAS A highly enjoyable, always interesting expedition which combined extensive trekking with the ascent of two peaks, and the unsuccessful attempt on a third, to the north of Zangla, in the northern part of Zanskar. The original idea of climbing here came from Mike Westmacott, currently President of the Alpine Club. It was a follow-up to Aldenham's highly successful expedition to the Chinese Pamirs in 1989 (see Alpine Journal, Vol. 96, 1991/92), Pp 80-86. The expedition patron was Chris Bonington, CBE, and the major sponsors of the expedition were the Victoria Wine Co. I td. and Kodak. There were thirteen members.

The initial plan was adhered to with very little deviation. A coach from Delhi, leaving on 12 July 1992, brought us to Manali, in Himachal Pradesh, then onwards over the watershed and exciting hairpins of the Rohtang la (3955 m) to a campsite at Jispa, just short of the waterlogged Darcha, where the transfer of equipment to ponies was smoothly completed.

Padam, the main town of Zanskar, was reached via the easy pass nl the Shingo la (5100 m); although there are no technical difficulties, the speedy rise from 3300 m at Darcha to the pass's summit over i inly four days (in fierce heat) led to some minor acclimatization problems: I was the worst hit, and had to suffer the indignity of ponyback support! The trek from Darcha to Padam is about 135 km: we took eleven days, including two rest days. The high point (il the trek was the visit to the amazing cliff-face edifice of Phuktal gompa (monastery), above Purne: one of the wonders of the world, riiwe was a general excitement felt at entering this ethnically and culturally Tibetan-Buddhist enclave. The river-crossings were also iiHinorable: most rivers are bridged only after a fashion, and care Id still needed. We were also struck by the number of European tu-kking groups filtering in through this route: there is a rather processed fjtullty to the banality of these treks which follow the now well-worn li.nl from Lamayuru in Ladakh to Darcha. Cultural pollution is also evident: children in every village demand trinkets and sweets; restraint, for ethical and health reasons, ought now to be severely exercised by trekkers.

Padam, a disagreeable, windy spot with an oversubscribed and unhygienic campsite,' was reached without difficulty, and with the party now acclimatised and fit. We proceeded to base camp (3300 m) next to Zangla, by bus, on 26 July an easy two-hour drive. Base camp, at the junction of the Zumlung chu and the Zanskar river, was an uninspiring spot, apart from the view towards the enigmatic Zangla fort, an extraordinary ancient monument which ought to be more carefully preserved.

Acclimatization, and the expedition's secondary purpose of studying the indigenous Buddhist culture, was completed by a four day trek, led by deputy leader Michael Hetherington, to look at the monasteries of Karsha and Thonde. This was successfully accomplished, although trekking in temperatures which reached forty degrees centigrade in this dusty valley made very heavy demands on the trekkers' energy.

Under the direction of climbing leader Nick Parks, an attempt was then begun on what we thought was our first permitted peak. It apparently lay above the Charcha la, to the northeast of Zangla. This expedition, which also comprised James and Andrew Howel, Stuart Manson, David Anderson and our genial liaison officer, Ravi Kumar, with the help of some local porters, ascended the Zumlung chu to the highest point where water could be obtained, and reached there only after twelve awkward river-crossings. The Charcha la, at 4900 m, was reached the next day and a bivouac established on snow at 5100 m. The obvious highest peak did not correspond with its mapped position, however. With PD grade climbing over mixed ground, the ^unstable pinnacled summit of Charcha peak, at 5950 m, was reached on the next day, 30 July. The large pole inserted into the summit rocks suggested the previous presence of surveyors. The party returned safely to the previous night's bivouac and successfully regained base camp the next day by the inward route. Andrew Howel is particularly to be commended on reaching a peak nudging 6000 m at only sixteen years of age!

A couple of days' recuperation followed at base camp; ornithological, botanical, geological and other interests were pursued. James Howel and David Anderson put up a 200 m route, graded VI 6a A4+, over several days, on the great, rotten buttress behind Zangla village, subsequently known as 'Nunnery Wall'. James Howel also assembled a flanged bicycle-wheel electrical generator, of his own invention, in a stream next to base camp; it provided top voltages of 15 to 17.5 volts, costs next to nothing to make, and can be assembled and dismantled very quickly. During this, period, we were also hospitably entertained by Nyima Norbu, son of the famous old King of Zangla, at his residence.1

Footnote

  1. Kings tend to abound in this region and claims of royalty need to be authenticated or else taken with a pinch of salt. —Ed.

 

On 3 August, the second climbing team, consisting of Nick Parks, Owen Williams, Robert May, Alex Ryland, Neil Irvine, James Rouach .Hid myself, set out for 'Natntse peak', (rather endearingly known to the Indian consular officials in London as 'Namaste' peak!) situated aUove the Namtse la (4448 m), to the northwest of Zangla. Michael I letherington and Pamela MacGregor (the expedition's sole female member) ,i' companied us as far as the hamlet of Honia, about' two hours' walk west of Zangla along the Zanskar river valley.

We ascended the rocky and narrow nala (gorge) directly north of I Ionia for approximately one thousand vertical metres before reaching .i suitable campsite just below the Namtse la. The ground was very loose: a mixture of fairly fine scree and earth. The campsite had to be levelled, to be tolerable. There were fine views south towards I he main Zanskar range, probably the area of Hagshu peak. That evening, one party reconnoitred the Namtse la and reached a hillock above it at about 4500 m. The second party reconnoitred a possible route up Namtse peak, via a prominent nearby spine; they reported that the surface was very unpleasant, owing to the extreme looseness of the scree.

On 4 August, the whole party succeeded in reaching the summit of Namtse peak, at 5400 m. The ascent was via a rocky spine then some terraced scree requiring some mild scrambling until reaching Ihe ring of broken cliffs surrounding the top' 100 m of the peak. These cliffs were breached by a very loose gully, again requiring only mild scrambling. A flurry of snow gave way to warm sunshine on the summit, where the party remained for ninety minutes. Disappointingly, there was no snow on this climb, other than a few small patches on the summit. (Extensive snowfields and glaciation were widely visible on the very steep north face, however.) A fine panorama of the Zanskar and Ladakh mountains was evident, but it was too murky to hope to see K2. A swift scree-run quickly brought us back to the Namtse la camp.

From the summit of Namtse peak, a very fine mountain to the east, between us and the Charcha la, and dominating the wall above Zangla, could easily be observed. It was evidently the first mountain lor which we had permission, and a party consisting of Nick Parks, Owen Williams and Robert May resolved to attempt it. On 5 August, with the help of a couple of porters, while the remainder of the Namtse party returned to base camp, this group reached a col just below the long and pinnacled summit ridge, at about 5200 m.

On the following day, while crossing a steep slope close to the summit (probably at about 5800 m), one member of the party slipped, and dislodged the third man. The dynamic loading on the belay proved excessive and the belay pinnacle exploded, sending all three on the rope about 200 m down a steep snow-slope on the north face. They were fortunate: Parks sustained a badly dislocated shoulder, May burnt several layers of skin from his left forearm and sprained an ankle, while Williams was bruised and shocked but otherwise unhurt. With great tenacity and courage, all three succeeded in reaching base camp by that evening, and were given appropriate first aid.

Exactly on schedule, the whole party was evacuated by lorry to Padam on the following morning. Professional first aid was rendered by two French nurses working for the 'Adepte' organisation at Pipiting, next to Padam, and Parks's shoulder was professionally examined thanks to a fortuitous encounter with a German orthopaedic specialist at Padam campsite. Since it was necessary to evacuate Parks to England, and the delay in getting a helicopter was too great, a jeep was hired to go as far as Kargil, and thence to Leh, the nearest airfield, with Michael Hetherington to accompany the casualty. This trip was successful, although progress was erratic owing to a massive landslide having blocked the road near the Pensi la (4401 m). Using a series of ad hoc transport arrangements, Hetherington rejoined the expedition early on the morning of 14 August, at Ating a couple of hours to the west of Padam, where we were to pick up porters for the outward trek over the Umasi la. (In the meantime we spent a day at Sani gompa, an hour west of Padam, enjoying the amazing spectacle of the gompa's annual festival, performed on the August full moon.)

The outward trek from Ating to Atholi and Gulabgarh via the Umasi la (5342 m) and the Dharlang valley (about 80 km over seven days) is certainly more demanding than the Shingo la trek, but the rewards are, equally, much greater. Two very easy days' trekking took us to a bouldery campsite at Huttra (4910 m) next to the glacier leading to the pass. The glacier itself was very dry, easy-angled and scarcely crevassed; the whole party could move up it unroped. A steepish snow-slope of about 400 m then leads to the narrow breach of the Umasi la, where our porters entertained us to a splendid, ceremony of sweet-giving, anointing us, raising us shoulder high and tying strips of cloth round our wrists! We were of course also pleased to have accomplished a second crossing of the main Himalayan chain. A wonderful high-level snowfield with views of many of the great Zanskar peaks, then a spectacular icefall, dry glacier and loathsome moraine followed, and led to much more conventional Alpine scenery around the campsite at Kachepangsa (c. 3400 m), to complete perhaps the most enjoyable day's mountaineering of the whole trip.

The party agreed that the 60 km trek down the Dharlang valley from Kachepangsa to Atholi, over four days, despite the monsoon and a particularly dangerous river-crossing of the Hagshu above Bujhas, was exceptionally enjoyable, in terms of the beauty of the scenery, the interesting people whom we met and the wonderful diversity of the flora and fauna. At the Atholi roadhead, however, we were informed that our bus from Delhi could not meet us, owing to the Kishtwar area having been put under curfew after a very recent terrorist outrage. Permission. was eventually granted tos travel by local bus: this meant an unpopular 4 a.m. rise to strike our delightful camp on the banks of the Chenab, and a hair-raising drive thereafter, until we were able to make contact with our Delhi transport. We were able to reach the very pleasant hill station of Batote that night, and Jammu the night after: it was there that we met our first Europeans since the day before crossing the Umasi la!

Summary: An account of the Aldenham school (England) expedition to Zanskar in 1992. The peaks Namtse and Charcha were climbed and a casualty on Zangla peak successfully evacuated.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

15. MAMOSTONG KANGRI II, 1993

GUNTHER STEINMAIR

IT WAS A vague idea I had six years ago that made me apply for an unclimbed peak in the Eastern Karakoram. 1 decided on Mamostong Kangri II (7023 m) which had never been tried before.

By end of July 1993 we were on our way, six Austrians and six Indians. My team, Reinhard Streif, Wolfgand Mortl, Hans Kloimstein, Wolfgang Kolblingel, Raimund Vielkind and I arrived in Delhi on 19 July. After we met with our Indian counterparts, Ravi Kumar (leader), A.S. Negendra, K.V. Mohan, Rukmangaduraju, G.B. Ravindra, C.S. Yogandanda at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF), we learnt that we had no permission from the Ministry of Home Affairs. Nobody •I IMF was willing to tell us the reason.

The Frontier Conflict

After two days we hastily compiled fresh papers and made an application for another peak in an open area. In the meantime we came across an article in a newspaper which seemed to tell the reason of Our refusal. Pakistan had forwarded a complaint to the Indian Government about an expedition being allowed into the restricted area and coming too close to the borderline.

After ten days of waiting and struggling, it was only due to the good contacts of our Indian group, we received the necessary papers to go ahead with our original plans.

Two days before this five of us and five of the Indians had started with all the equipment on an army truck heading for Leh via Manali, Sarchu and Upshi, four days of shaking and dust. Ravi and myself stayed behind hoping to clear everything and later managed to fly to Leh.

After some days of walking through the bazar, exploring gompas and passing prayer flags and at the same time four days of bureaucracy for Ravi and me all of us could leave again on an army truck towards the Nubra valley. A high ranking officer of the Military Intelligence had to give us the eventual 'go ahead'. He was very helpful.

Our liaison officer, Rigzin, was sent by the army from Leh. When we first met, I knew immediately he was one of those you could just wish you get. We got along well with him.

After 50 km we climbed over the Khardung la (5600 m) one of the highest motorable roads of the world. Descending into the Shyok valley and crawling along the rough road into the Nubra valley we reached Sasoma. We had a day for recovering and repacking loads to suit the mules.

Approach

Next day only 13 mules arrived out of the 20 we had ordered. They were loaded and most of us started off to climb steeply up to about 4600 m where we had the first view of the area we were heading for and dropped down again to reach the Tulum Puti river. The next day took us through the valley with steep granite walls nearly all the way. After a cold river crossing we reached our base camp, a place called Skyangpoche (4720 m). Ravi and Mohan arrived with the rest of the mules and equipment next day. After four days of load ferrying we had our Cl at 5100 m, still on the glacier moraine and C2 at 5600 m on the Mamostong glacier.

On 10 August both Wolfgangs, Reinhard, and I left BC for Cl. Next day we reached C2. Part of the Indian group, Hans and Raimund were at Cl. The Indians were carrying too much and their loads were too heavy for them.

Difficult Route-finding

The next morning we had thick mist and sometimes it was snowing heavily. So it was best to stay in our sleeping bags and just crawl out to get 'snow for a brew. Towards lunchtime the sun came out and Reinhard and Wolfgang started off on about a 55° snow and ice-slope, fixed 300 m of rope and came down again. Next day the four of us went up the fixed rope. A 150 m section we had to climb without fixed ropes. This section brought the Indian lads to a halt and made them turn round a couple of days later. On a col at 6100 m we put up C3.

On 14 August we left at 6 a.m., descended for about 100 m onto a glacier basin and crossed it till we reached the bottom end of a ridge leading towards the peak. I had to warm my half frozen fingers immediately after leaving the tent. Behind the ridge we started up a moderate snow-slope which was in good condition. Somewhere half way up we dug a little snow-hole for the stove and had a lirew. The terrain became steeper and up to lunchtime it was not certain whether the peak will give in or not since we could not see what we were aiming for.

There was a lot of spindrift and the snow sometimes was waist d«ep. After bypassing some huge crevasses and reaching a ridge we noticed with relief that the peak was only half an hour away. An Incredible view opened to us towards the east with Aq Tash and Saser Kangri in the foreground. The summit was reached at 4 p.m., .lfter ascending 1100 m in one push. The dream had come true, I was able to climb an undimbed 7000 m peak. The sky was clear <wd we could admire many unknown peaks surrounding us.

It was getting late and we started descending soon. We had more lirew on the way but our legs felt like rubber when we had to (limb again to reach our tent. Another two days brought us back to the base camp.

In the meantime Raimund, Hans and two of the Indian lads started off towards the peak. They put in fixed ropes on the rest of the climb to C3. We spent the next few days at the base camp eating and recovering. After making a rough calculation I radioed to the rest of the crew at Cl, that 21 August was the last possible day for a peak attempt. For several reasons and also due to bad weather nobody managed to climb the peak.

Our LO went to an nearby army camp and managed to telephone .ii id organize 15 mules for our return. We made some ferries to get everything down from Cl and C2. Three days saw us back in Leh. Trying to get seats on a plane to Delhi seemed impossible. After a few days and 'donating' two duvets we managed.

A couple of days in Delhi allowed us some sightseeing in Agra and Jaipur. The last obstacle we encountered was a delayed flight back home: due to a strike by the Air India personnel.

Summary: The first ascent of Mamostong Kangri II (7023 m), in the East Karakoram. The Indo-Austrian expedition climbed the peak on 14 August 1993.

 

 

⇑ Top

 

16. AQ TASH
Indo-Japanese expedition

HUKAM SINGH

AQ TASH — A beautiful, majestic and impregnable peak is located on the famous Central Asia Trade Route.1 Located as it is, it dominates its entire surrounding; encompassing the route from Sasoma to Saser La.

Footnote

  1. For history of the area and explanation of names see H.J. Vol. 48, 'Lots In A Name' by Harish Kapadia. — Ed.

 

Aq Tash looks not only shapely but also frightening, from which ever direction one may look at it. The fact that it was an unsealed peak which had never been attempted or explored before was the main attraction.

Skyangpoche, ahead of Leh-Sasoma (roadhead), was the location of our base camp. Starting at 9 a.m. on 18th July, 1993 we were able to reach Skyangpoche by 12.30 and select an ideal location for the base camp. To reach the base camp we had to ford across Tulumputi Tokpo but without any problem since there was not much water in the Tokpo (river) at this point.

All the members with complete expedition loads arrived at base camp in one go. It did not take us much time to pitch up tents and take care of all the stores. Because of the road journey from Delhi and about an 8 day halt at Leh; by the time we reached base camp all members were acclimatised.

Mamotong Kangri I from Mamostong Kangri II.

56. Mamotong Kangri I from Mamostong Kangri II.
Note 15 (Gunther Steinmar)

Route on South ridge of Aq Tash.

57. Route on South ridge of Aq Tash.
Note 16 (Hukam Singh)

Aq Tash, SW face. Japanese route of first ascent (centre) and Indian route on South ridge (right).

58. Aq Tash, SW face. Japanese route of first ascent (centre) and Indian route on South ridge (right).
Note 16 (Harish Kapadia)

From base camp we followed the right (eastern) bank of Yangbar glacier which ultimately, reaches the *base of the south face of Aq Tash. The climb at the start, passes through the gradual slopes of a meadow. Beyond the crest of the lower moraine the climb along the right bank of Yangbar glacier was more gradual and free from any hazards. The glacier was smooth and without any crevasses. The upper Yangbar glacier could provide an excellent 4 km long ski run.

We continued ahead with the objective of setting Cl as high and also as close to the foot of Aq Tash as possible. The site selected for Cl (5600 m) close to ih£ foot of the south face afforded a clear view, right upto the summit as well as a major part of the south ridge forming the sky line. The camp was also at the safe distance from avalanches as well as from rock falls.

Both leaders and members studied the various possible approaches to the summit. The members discussed the pros and cons of various possible routes. From the discussion two views emerged. While the .Japanese members were unanimous in their selection of the vertical south face direct route, the Indian members preferred south ridge which would mean climbing the peak from the right flank, negotiating rock faces. Hiroshima Alpine Club members had practiced a lot to tackle vertical rock/ice faces, therefore were more than optimistic to tackle the vertical south face. The Indian members preferred to follow the route posing a variety of climbing challenges, over the south ridge.

Having taken this vital decision, the follow up action gained momentum without any hassle. On 22 July, 4 Indian members — Prem, Khem Raj, Sange and Hira along with 3 Japanese — Nagoshi, Mizote and Yamamoto along with HAP occupied Cl. ,

So far the weather had remained clear and favourable. The entire route through the vertical south face to be followed by the Japanese was fully visible but in case of the south ridge to be followed by Indians, even up to the south col there were many hidden pockets through the hard rock face and the area beyond south col (6250 m) was known to us only through maps and photographs.2

Footnote

  1. The only available photographs of Aq Tash were printed in H.J. Vol. 46, p. 76, Nos. 10-11-12. The first expedition to investigate the approaches to Aq Tash was the Indian team from Bombay in 1989 (Harish Kapadia). A party of two climbers traversed the Aq Tash glacier and reached the foot of its east face. They reached a col at 6200 m on the NE ridge ('Col 62'). The present expedition carried photographs brought by the 1989 expedition, both of the SW face and of the eastern approaches, referred to here. The other available views of Aq Tash are printed in H.J. Vol. 48, No. 30 (SW face and unclimbed NW face). — Ed.

 

Prem and 3 other leading members made good progress initially to open route beyond Cl covering every inch of the climb with fixed rope. As they progressed the rock face began showing its hard formation, making prospects of further climbing not only difficult but also time ^consuming. The decision taken about the selection of two different routes was so binding that there was no question of looking back.

The Japanese members made speedy progress in opening route upto 6150 m and set up C2, to reach the south col at 6250 m the Indian members had to tackle a rocky chimney with over-hanging rocks at 2-3 places which drained their energy. Thus it took them a longer time to set up C2. On the other hand, after opening the route upto C2 the Japanese members had to struggle for about two days to cut the hard ice for making a small platform for a tent. Opening route through the difficult rock chimney, laying at places parallel fixed ropes, Pemba, Mohan, and Wanchuk were able to get on to the crest of the south col and set up C2 on 28 July.

The route beyond C2, being followed by Indian members was steep at places covered with a deep layer of soft snow and at the same time also covered with verglas. Even with the slow progress of the climb beyond C2 from 29 July we were quite hopeful that we would be able to tackle the 800 m climb to the summit in 4 to 6 days. But this did not happen inspite of a hard struggle. We had to continue climbing with fixed rope. On 5 August, Nagoshi and Okamoto began their day at 3 a.m. from C2 with the aim of climbing the summit. With Nagoshi mostly in the lead opening the route through a most difficult pitch on the south face; both of them made a very bold attempt but had to give up at 5 p.m. when they were only 50 m short of the summit due to hostile weather. Both these members safely returned to Cl around 9 p.m. Meanwhile Yamamoto and Mizote occupied C2 We were wishfully planning a summit meet on the historic day of 6 August, the day atomic bomb exploded on Hiroshima in 1945. Like the previous day the weather was not favourable on the 6th. Yamamoto and Mizote started from C2 at 2 a.m. for the summit attempt. At the same time, Prem and other 6 Indian members started for the summit little later from their C2. The weather remained hostile almost whole day with visibility restricted. 22 year old Nobuo Yamamoto, the youngest member of the team reached the summit at 2.10 p.m. followed by 38 year old Yasufumi Mizote at 2.30 p.m. From the summit, Yamamoto contacted the leader on walkie-talkie and wanted to confirm whether the Indian members were around. He also said from the point he had reached there was no further climb upwards and wanted to confirm whether he was on the summit. With the slight lifting of clouds it was confirmed that both of them were on the summit. Prem and other 6 Indian members missed the summit that day by 250 m owing to hostile weather.

The weather did not show any improvement the following day. While the Japanese members forced their return journey, all the 7 leading Indian members remained confined to their tents at C2, for the day.

On 8 August, Aq Tash smiled on us. Prem along with Pemba, Mohan, Khem, Sange, Wangchuk and Hira started at 3 a.m. determined to climb the summit. Their climbing pace was good upto the point they had put up fixed ropes on 6 August. They realised that the area beyond involved technical climbing which could be negotiated with the use of fixed rope. Thus the process not only became very tiring but also time-consuming. Prem came on the air and contacted me at 3 p.m. indicating that they were quite close to the summit and would be on the summit at any moment. Thereafter there was no further communication. The Aq Tash summit was not free from clouds even today. Odd patches of cloud were playing hide and seek trying to deter the climbers. It was finally at 5 p.m. when Sonam, our HAP at Cl came on the air and said he could see climbers walking on the summit of Aq Tash one by one. He could even name them. About the same time finally Prem came on air and confirmed that they were on the summit. It took them another 15 minutes to reach the crest line of the Aq Tash and at 5.15 p.m. all 7 of them stood on the summit.

This was indeed a happy culmination of the climbs on hitherto virgin Aq Tash by two different routes. Climbing down after such .in exhausting experience becomes more perilous. We were, therefore, more concerned about their safe return. We heaved a sigh of great relief and felt real happiness when they returned to C2 safely at 9 p.m.

The climb of Aq Tash, one of the high virgin peaks in the world has been considered a classic climb of 1993. In this success every member of the team both Japanese and Indian played a significant role giving his best.

Winding up C2, Prem and his party returned to Cl on 9 August. On the 10th all the members returned to base camp.

On 14 August, we were back on the road.

Japanese Members (HAC): Minoru Tauchi, Yashihide Yashioka, Ryoji Okamoto, Nobuo Yamamoto, Masao Yokoyama and Yasufumi Mozote, (from Hiroshima Alpine Club).

Indian Members: Prem Singh, P.T. Sherpa, Sub Mohan Singh, Si Khem Raj, HC Sange Sherpa, HC Wangchuk Sherpa, NK Hira Ram, Sub Ro Kashmir Singh and CT/WC Mangal Singh (From Indo-Tibet Border Police).

Summary: The first ascent of Aq Tash (7016 m) by the Indo-Japanese expedition. Two Japanese reached the summit by the SW face on 6 August 1993. 7" Indians reached the summit on 8 August 1993 via the south ridge and east face.
Photos 57-58-59

 

 

⇑ Top

 

17. FANTASTIC MOUNTAIN, THE OGRE

CARLOS P. BUHLER

WHAT A FANTASTIC mountain the Ogre is!1 We were not disappointed with the sheer splendour of the peak, the quality of the climbing, and the entire Choktoi glacier area. We were disappointed to not reach the summit by the new route we were trying on the southeast buttress. I suppose that happens sometimes on these endeavours. The three of us, Tom McMillan, Dr. Peter Crecelius, and I, arrived in base camp on 12 July (4450 m). There was a Japanese team of four already on the Ogre and Kitty Calhoun's four person team on Latok I. The valley is an awesome work of nature. Nestled in this one corner of the Karakoram are four very impressive mountains: Latok I and III, the Ogre, and Point 6950 m. Our proposed climbing route led us up to the head of the Choktoi glacier where it flowed out of a cwm or basin (creating a nasty icefall) tucked up between the Ogre and Pt. 6950. We put advance base camp (one tent) at the foot of this rather unhealthy icefall and began work on finding a route through it. Though the Japanese had a line worked out earlier in the season, the seracs changed day by day and had obliterated their route by the time we arrived. They had moved most of their mountain gear above the icefall before we arrived in base camp and were prepared to remain above it until their attempt was over.

Footnote

  1. Baintha Brakk. the Ogre (7285 m) in the Karakoram — Ed.

 

We differed in strategy and favoured returning to base camp when the weather turned sour. We secured* 500 m of line on some flanking ice-slopes and rock walls that formed the left bank of the icefall. Although subject to frequent avalanches after bad weather, these slopes did not change, over the long haul, as the seracs did in the heart of the icefall.

For the remainder of July, the weather gave us about equal numbers of good days and bad. From base camp, we hauled up gear to the foot of the icefall, and then set another temporary cache above it, at 5300 m on 21 July. Our immediate goal was the col or saddle at 5650 m between Pt. 6950 and the Ogre.

Peter and I established the Col Camp on 30 July on a platform we cut out of the ice and snow. The climb to the col was steep snow, ice and mixed climbing for about twelve pitches. We had good luck in that the Japanese team had already fixed this dangerous gully with rope and invited us to share it with them.

By the time we reached the col, however, the Japanese had given up on the mountain and were bringing their gear back to base camp. They were a fine group of mountaineers. They brought down most of their gear, but left for us, in the col, the crucial fixed rope we (and they) needed to fix on the 600 m granite buttress above the saddle. The weather had not cooperated, however. In the twenty days they spent in the col, only seven had been good enough for climbing. The four of them had fixed six pitches up the moderately angled snow and ice slopes to the shoulder where one must begin the rock buttress. They managed to climb and fix one pitch up this superb granite.

This next 600 m rock pillar constitutes the major difficulty on the entire route. We, also, intended to fix this section. From its top we hoped to launch an alpine style push of three to five days to the undimbed East summit. To get there, we would have to ascend about 500 m of snow and ice, followed by 450 m of steep but tnore moderate rock. There remained one last unknown; the mostly horizontal ridge connecting this East summit with the Main summit. We figured it would take another twenty-four to forty-eight hours to reach it and return to the East peak. Our descent would follow back down the rock and snow to the 600 m pillar where the fixed ropes would be in place.

To our happy surprise, Peter and I were able to lead four great pitches on the splendid rock and ice of the pillar on 31 July, the day after we reached the col. Unfortunately, bad weather forced a hasty retreat the next day to base camp. We were buoyed, nonetheless, by our progress on the mountain and needed a good rest.

Little did we know that our rest would last a week! A metre of snow fell while we waited patiently in base camp, wondering whether the inevitable avalanches would rip our ropes out of the icefall.

Tom had terrible luck with his health during the first three weeks of the climb. He had been unable to climb with Peter and me through the icefall and up to the col because of. illness. After recovering, he was then unable to join us since coming through the seracs alone was too dangerous. Instead, as Peter and I worked on establishing our Col Camp and climbing the pillar, he stocked as much food and gear as we could use thereafter at the advanced base camp near the foot of the icefall.

On 8 August the sun came out. We let the avalanches fall all day and then, at midnight, set out for the col in one long push. By evening, Peter and I were again perched in the saddle with our hopes set on climbing the rock pillar above us. Tom was at he Cwm cache and waiting to make two carries to the col. Our enthusiasm was dampened by another storm the next morning at 7 a.m. Tom made the two trips to our col, one during the night and the second as the weather worsened on the 10th. We waited for eight hours in the tent hoping that the storm would pass, but it continued to snow heavily. By 2 p.m. we knew our retreat would soon be cut off by the threatening avalanche slopes above the cwm and icefall. We could not tell how long we would be caught in the col if we stayed and wanted to save our food for good weather. At 4 p.m. we began the long descent to base.

Another three days of heavy snow fell on the mountain. On the 14th, the sky began clearing again. We let the snow consolidate that one day and set off once more at midnight for the col. By the time we reached the Cwm cache at 5300 m, it had begun to snow again. We sat on our packs for two hours utterly dismayed that the break in the storm had lasted only twenty-four hours. Crestfallen, we returned to base camp.

The weather didn't clear until the 20th. This time we allowed two days for the new snow to avalanche and consolidate in the sun. Our route was exposed to avalanche hazards, as I've said. However, for the most part, they were predictable. By giving the sun time to warm the slopes and allowing most of the settling to occur, we travelled at night with more security.

On the 22nd we left again for the exhausting, twelve hour climb to the saddle. Tom felt that this would be his attempt. The threat of avalanches, though acceptable, never completely disappeared. The fixed ropes were becoming frayed. The month of August was slipping I >v and we had not made any progress in three weeks. The Latok north ridge team had decided that with the build up of snow on lliclr north facing route they would give up the attempt. Generally speaking, things did not look great.

Nevertheless, on 23 arrd-24 August we climbed six pitches of spectacular rock, and. hauled fixed rope to our high point. Perched above the glaicier, we could see K2 in the east and Nanga Par'«t to the west. A sea of peaks lay between us and those mighty giants. But we knew, big as they were, they were not as difficult to climb as the Ogre.

The afternoon of the 24th brought clouds and we discussed our options anchored to a tiny ledge. As snow began to fall, I aid and free climbed across a steep wall into a corner, It was the hardest pitch yet but I wanted to reach easier ground before going down.

At 6.30 p.m. we were exhausted and back in the col at our tents. Though descending was our plan for the morning, we feared our tli'scent might be cut off by the new snow. In the twilight, we set off down the steep ice-couloir from the col. By 10 p.m. heavy snowfall restricted our visibility to about 50 m. Agonizingly perplexed, we lost Our way at the bottom of our fixed lines in the icefall. The slopes were so changed in just four days that we could not recognize the way we had ascended! It took us until early morning to reach base camp and safety. It was a long 24 hours.

Tom was now through with the Ogre. For personal reasons of y. as well as a feeling that success was only a remote possibility, ed to head out as soon as we could get porters into camp, did not feel ready to give in yet. Although Peter had never done llilng like the sustained technical climbing of the southeast pillar, was completely ready for another try. This time we didn't have wait long.

On the 26th the weather cleared. Still drained from our previous i we rested on the 26th and 27th. I knew our chances of climbing mountain without a third man were slim. There was so much fk Involved in carrying fixed lines and gear to our high point Pete and I would be tired before leading any new pitches. It took five hours to ascend our ropes from the col. I tried recruiting one or more of Kitty's team to join us since they were still waiting in base camp for their porters to come. But Pakistani regulations and their schedules prevented this. Faced with no alternative, on the 28th Peter and I went back up to the col in glorious but cold weather.

The next day I completed the pitch up the corner to a good stance. The climbing was slow and tedious. We hauled 230 m of rope to the belay and checked out the easier rock above. If only we had convinced one of the Latok team to join .us! The position was amazing. Perched on a twenty inch ledge on the side of the smooth granite face of the Ogre, you could spit into the glacial cwm 750 vertical below, base camp lay another 750 m down and five miles off in the distance, It was colder now in the end of August. We climbed with mittens and mountain boots. But the weather looked stable.

The 30th, Peter and I ascended again for six hours to our previous high point and began a complicated mixed pitch across the face to reach the crest of the buttress at 6055 m. It took three hours to climb and then pull our packs and extra rope to that snowy ledge. It was going so slowly. Though the weather was holding, I could not see how the two of us could make the ascent with a margin of safety I felt comfortable with. Two or three pitches remained of the pillar. But at our pace we would take as many days. After that, and a rest, we would begin our alpine style push. It was too much for the two of us alone. Extremely frustrated, we decided to give up.

After 50 days, the Ogre was not in our grasp. It is a great objective and will, someday, be climbed by the southeast buttress. Even we may one day return to the mountain, for it is one of the finest peaks in the Karakoram.

I was speaking with the English climber, Doug Scott, on the phone. He and Chris Bonington, are the only two to have stood on the Ogre's summit (by a route from the other side). 'It's a big mountain, isn't it?' he commented. I could only agree.

Summary: Attempts on Baintha Brakk, the Ogre (7285 m), in the Karakoram, by an American team in August 1993.
Frontispiece

The east face of Aq Tash. The Indian route on South Ridge.

59. The east face of Aq Tash. The Indian route on South Ridge.
Note 16 (Arun Samant)

Nanga Parbat, Mazeno ridge. Two routes of attempts.

60. Nanga Parbat, Mazeno ridge. Two routes of attempts.
Note 18 (Doug Scott)

 

 

⇑ Top

 

18. NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITIONS, 1992 AND 1993

DOUG SCOTT

THE WEST RIDGE OF NANGA PARBAT runs for about thirteen kilometres from the Mazeno pass. It is the longest ridge on any of the 8000 m peaks, and remains unclimbed. Although Nanga Parbat Is a very popular mountain, there has been surprisingly little activity on this major feature.

A half-hearted attempt was made to climb the ridge by the French In 1979. It seems that they climbed directly up fi-om the Mazeno pass to a minor summit, north of the actual Mazeno (west) ridge. They fixed a considerable amount of rope but gave up, due to bad weather. The only other activity in the vicinity was a very brave rfttempt by three Basque climbers to reach the highest of the seven Mazeno peaks, from the north in 1986. They climbed for nine days, Alpine style, up very steep rock, ice and snow, but had to retreat Just a few rope lengths from the Mazeno summit. They made 36 long abseils in their descent.

A. NANGA PARBAT, 1992

In the summer of 1992, our expedition arrived in Islamabad from the U.K., Russia and Nepal between 20-22 July. We planned to climb the Mazeno ridge in three stages.

After arriving at base camp (3500 m) on 26 July, we climbed n minor summit opposite Nanga Parbat on 28 July, and then the more difficult point 5750 m of 'Lilley' peak (Pt. 5971 m) via a ih'w route up the northwest side (TD inf.), a four-day round trip from base camp.

Phase two involved climbing the Hans Schell route on the south »lcle of Nanga Parbat, to 6900 m. (C 4). Serge Effimov, Valeri Perchine and myself traversed across to place a food and fuel cache on the wt'st ridge, about 400 m above the Mazeno Gap, at 7300 m. Alan Hinkes, Ang Phurba and Nga Temba placed a dump at 7000 m all on the stormy 16 August. Sean Smith was plagued with headaches, so we descended the same afternoon to C3. Alan and the Sherpas hull already descended all the way down to Cl. On 17 August, whilst descending the steep, loose rock between C2 and Cl on the Schell route, a massive rock avalanche roared down. Serge Effimov and myself found shelter with the rocks skimming over our helmets and sack. Sean was turned upside down on the belay by the abseil 50 m higher. Valeri Perchine, who was about to make the abseil, was swept down when a rock hit him in the chest. Sean sustained bruised ribs, a crushed toe and a smashed helmet, but was otherwise O.K. He climbed down with what was left of the abseil rope. Valeri stopped 100 m. down in a shallow depression on the steep face: he was lucky not to go another 1500 m. As it was, he suffered broken ribs, a cracked pelvis and lacerations on his hands and face. It took two days to get him down to base camp.

Alan and the Sherpas had survived another huge rock fall the day before — they were quite shaken. In fact, Alan decided to go home, a decision influenced as much by the death of two close friends earlier in the year, as from his own near-miss. Sean went off to Gilgit for a medical check and Valeri remained at base camp to recover there over the next few weeks. The remaining four members of the expedition went around towards the Mazeno pass.

After two days walking from base camp, we arrived at camp 4800 m high, amongst the moraine of the Mazeno glacier, some 3 km south east of the Mazeno gap. Early the next morning Ang Phurba, Nga Ternba, Serge Effimov and I set off to climb the ridge which goes north to Pt. 6880 m, the first of the seven Mazeno summits, as marked on the 1936 German map of the area. We were carrying, on an average, 25 kg rucksacks, with enough food and gear to sustain us over an estimated eight days up and down up the Mazeno ridge to the summit of Nanga Parbat, and a descent down the Schell route. We moved together over the glacier and climbed roped up, 45-50 degree ice slopes - strenuous stuff with heavy sacks.

After 12 hours climbing, we arrived at a suitable camp site on the crest of the north-south ridge, at about 5850 m. We spent 26 August climbing around and over the pinnacles of the ridge, with some difficulty (T.D.) to camp at about 6400 m. On 27 August we climbed up on ice and snow to Pt. 6650 m and then on over the first of the Mazeno summits, Pt. 6880 m. We continued east along the ridge, over Pt. 6825 m, to camp on a wind-swept saddle, to the east. On 28 August we climbed up to Pt. 6970 m, which was as far as we got.

The night before had been extremely windy: we were up at night, building walls around the tent. The Sherpas hadn't slept too well: Ang Phurba was definitely worried about the descent. Previously, he had been in the big rock fall with Alan and actually caught a rock on his chin; he was still somewhat demoralised from that and recommended retreat. He definitely did not want to go any further. There was no way we could split the party and so we went into retreat, retracing our steps to Pt. 6880 m and continuing west and down towards the Mazeno pass. Before the descent proper to the pass we saw traces of fixed rope, presumably left by the French in 1979 and just south at Pt. 6365 m which is the peak they probably climbed that year.

We descended the steep, broken ground directly above the col until we ran out of daylight and bivouacked at about 5750 m. On 29 August we descended the last of the loose and dangerous rocks to the Mazeno pass at 5358 m, and eventually to base camp, just before dark, after a 20 km walk.

It had been a^ good seven-day outing, climbing over new ground, including three of the seven Mazeno peaks, and seeing first-hand that this Mazeno ridge, the west ridge of Nanga Parbat, could be the most elegant and safest way to the summit. However, the most difficult of these summits have yet to be crossed.

After collecting, burning and burying 45 sacks of rubbish from around base camp, with the help of local children, we packed up. On 1 September we walked back, with eighteen loads, on donkeys to the road-head where Ibrahim, our excellent liaison officer, had jeeps ready to take us to Gilgit the same night.

Members: Serge Effimov (Russia), Alan Hinkes (U.K.), Valeri Perchine (Russia), Ang Phurba (Nepal), Doug Scott - leader (U.K.), Sean Smith (U.K.) and Nga Temba (Nepal).

B. NANGA PARBAT, 1993

Our team consisted of Wojdech Kurtyka (Poland) and me who would attempt the Mazeno ridge and also Richard Cowper, who would Join us on acclimatisation peaks. Our excellent liaison officer was Captain Ali and our two cooks, Hussein and Hakim, both from Hushe.

We left Islamabad by minibus on 20 July 1993, arriving the next <Liy after a 16-hour drive up the Karakoram highway at Gilgit. On 25 July we arrived at Tarshing. For 3 days we acclimatised to the north of Tarshing, climbing up and around Sharsing. On 28 July We walked to Latobo und camped (3580 m). The naxt day we continued to the Mazeno base canik (4100 m) and on 30 July we walked up to the Mazeno high camp (4900 m), as per our map. There me a number of stone circles here, used previously by trekking groups.

On 1 August Richard Cowper and I set out for the southern-most point on the long ridge to the west of the Mazeno glacier. This has the appearance of a spire, as seen from base camp, hence we called it the 'Mazeno Spire'. In actual fact, when seen from the ridge itself it is nothing like as steep.

After a lot of scrambling, I reached the summit, unroped, after a final 200 ,m of VS climbing up the south side, and a final 6 m hard section of 5a on the southwest side. There was no sign of anyone else having been there. ■ Richard Cowper stopped some 6 m below the summit.

After many walks around the area, and despite bad weather, Wojdech Kurtyka, Richard Cowper and myself set out to climb the highest of the peaks west of the Mazeno glacier, which we called the Mazeno West peak. After a long 610 m climb up an avalanche chute, and up a final snow basin, we came to the summit (5700 m). Again, there was no sign of it having been climbed before. From the summit we had excellent views of the west end of the Mazeno ridge and could see the whole of our climb of 1992, which looked much steeper when seen head-on. Wojciech and I looked forward to going the same way, and to the summit of Nanga Parbat, which we could also see, some 16 km away.

We came down, unroped, Wojciech, I, and a long way behind — Richard Cowper. Wojciech was some 30 m lower, when a huge amount of fresh snow from the upper basin avaianched down. I scampered away from it towards rocks on the other side of the avalanche couloir but the moving snow caught me as I ran. I managed to get my axes in and held my position for a time, but the weight of snow built up and suddenly I was away, tumbling down some 360 m, bouncing over rock and ice-cliffs. As is usual when it is all happening, there was no fear, only curiosity registering every sensation, and my thoughts upon them; like This is it. 'No, no, I'm still alive', and 'How resilient the body is'. All these thoughts, and others were going through my head, as I bounced down, and finally came out at the bottom. I was partially buried, but able pull the snow away from my face, release the belt strap of my rucksack and breathe more easily. I wriggled out, only to find that I had severely wrenched the tendons of my right ankle, the one with pins in it from the last time I had an accident in 1977 on the Ogre, also in Pakistan.

For 3 days we sat around at base camp, but it was obvious that my leg was not going to get better, so I rode a horse out to Tarshing and eventually took a jeep to Astor hospital. After looking at the X-ray, my suspicions were confirmed, that there would be no chance of future climbing that season on Nanga Parbat, in fact, no climbing for the rest of the year. Richard Cowper came back to the U.K. with me. Wojciech stayed on, to go trekking around the area with his wife and children, who came out to Pakistan after Richard Cowper and I had departed.

The only tangible benefit of our visit to the climbing of the Mazeno ridge is that we did see the west end of the ridge and we have some interesting photographs of it.

Whether Wojciech and I will return to climb it in the future, I don't know, but surely a team will climb it soon, and to my mind it will make one of the finest climbs in the Himalaya, and not be too dangerous either. It just needs someone strong and determined, d decent break in the weather, and a bit of good luck.

Summary: Expeditions to climb the Mazeno ridge of Nanga Parbat (8126 m) in 1992 and 1993. 'Mazeno Spire' was climbed on I August 1993. Mazeno^ West peak was also climbed in 1993. Both were first ascents. Both were multi-national expeditions led by the author.
Photos 60-61

 

 

⇑ Top

 

19. TWO NEW ROUTES ON FALAKSER AND MANKIAL
Climbing in the Eastern Hindu Rush (Upper Swat)

HERMANN WARTH

JOB: TEAM LEADER of a Swiss-sponsored Rural Integrated Development Project in the Hindu Kush range of Pakistan.

Hobby: Climbing in remote areas.

Result: Strong longing for a good climbing encounter with Falakser (c 6000 m) which was nearly every day framed by my northeast window and with Mankial (5710 m) which was peering from the Miutheast into my office.

Together with the Swiss Project-advisor Martin Barlocher I tried Kilakser in September 1988 via the north ridge which had been used <v. the line of ascent by all climbers so far. But Martin developed Jmindice. So we had to retreat from this moderately simple route, iiliout 650 m below the summit.

In November 1988 I made a reconnaissance to the south side of Falakser and identified a route through the south face and over the upper part of the west ridge. I invited my Sherpa friend Ang Choppal from Nepal who was my ropemate at Makalu, Ganesh III and Kangchenjunga. In early July 1990 we tackbd the identified south face route with two nights in a sn,all tent. There were no major technical problems in the face — 40°-50° ice-climbing for about 25 pitches between 4900 m and the beginning of the west ridge — but discomfort from merciless sun-attack, danger from occasional rockfall and a cruel thunderstorm which surprised us just below the west ridge. We reached the summit on 8 July 1990.

According to maps, Falakser's height is somewhere between 5944 m and 6300 m. The well-shaped pyramid dominates all mountains in the surrounding. It gives views of Nanga Parbat, Tirich Mir and the Pamir mountains. Most impressive is Falakser's very steep uninterrupted northface (ice-wall).

Our descent on the north ridge was harder than expected. Climbing down thousands of steps on the front points of our crampons was a tough job for our leg-muscles, the more so as the ice on the northside was frozen hard. The steep ridge requred our full attention for several hours. Where it turned northeast we found a flat place for our third night on the mountain. We reach the place from where I had to retreat with Martin Baerlocher two years ago, and then climbed down the northeast ridge towards the pleasures of sunny and fragrant pastures. I think we have climbed Falakser by a new route and have accomplished the first traverse.

Two weeks later we camped at the foot of Mankial (5710 m) on its south side. Mankial is an impressive wall visible from as far as the Malakhand pass where one enters the Swat valley. We chose a line of ascent leading apparently directly to the summit. The south face is steeper than Falakser's and far more dangerous due to heavy rockfall starting after sunrise. This we could not foresee the afternoon before our climb since the fallen stones were apparently hammered deeply into the soft and wet glacier snow and covered by it.

The rockfall caused us to deviate from the direct line and to climb further westward on an ice-spur leading towards the rocks above. They were extremely fragile. Nearly every touch resulted in a cannonade. We treated them with utmost care, slipping lastly through an overhang and stepping after 26 pitches (19 in ice, 7 in rock) on the sharp ice-ridge leading to the summit which was more to the east than we had anticipated. It was 27 July 1990 at 3.00 p.m. when we reached the top.

Actually we had planned to bivouac there but decided to climb down since we had watched for the whole day our two porters carelessly wandering between crevasses taking a sunbath here and there on their matresses. We took the well-structured but steep southeast ridge until its rocks became too steep and even overhanging (too long for an abseil). So, the enveloping darkness saw us back on the southface at its eastern edge. No moon. Starlight was completly swallowed by upcoming clouds. In pitch darkness we managed the bergschrund, crawling on untested ice-bridges above unfathomable depths — traverse or fall depending on unknown statics ... At 11.00 p.m. we reached our tents where our porters slept peacefully and innocently like children.

I think we climbed Mankial by a new route since according to accounts available previous climbers have used the southeast or southeast-east ridges (Alpine Journal No. 53, Himalayan Journal Vol. XXVI, Trevor Braham, Himalayan Odyssey, 1974).

Summary: Ascents of Falakser (c 6000 m) and Mankial (5710 m) in July 1990, by the author and a Sherpa friend.
Photos 62-63

Footnote

  1. For past references see H.J. Vol. XIV, p. Ill and Vol. 43, p. 153 for Faiakser and H.J. Vols. XXV, p. 85, Vol. XXVI, p. 42 and Vol. XXVII, p. 186 for Mankial. — Ed.

 

 

⇑ Top