SUMMER ON THE SAVAGE MOUNTAIN

ROGER PAYNE

APART from attempting a lightweight style attempt on K2 the British 1993 K2 expedition aimed to make a positive contribution to the mountain environment and local people. Our climbing plans were based on a summit bid during the first two weeks of August which is when most previous ascents have been made. The lour climbers were Alan Hinkes, Victor Saunders, Julie-Ann Clyma, and myself. We took a small amount of fixed rope and agreed that .my that was used should be removed, but as it turned out none was fixed. In addition to the removal of other expeditions' rubbish from high camps and base all our equipment and rubbish was removed from the mountain and base camp. The team was completed by Dr Caroline Williams, who acted as doctor and base camp manager, Jason Burke, who made a photographic record of the development work, and lastly, our excellent liaison officer, Major Nayyer Abbasi.

With support from Eastern Electricity the expedition oversaw the installation of micro hydroeiecrricity systems in two mountain villages we passed on the approach to base camp. These systems were requested by the villages who work with the Aga Khan Rural Support Programme (AKRSP) which is a development charity. The technology is simple-manufactured locally. The systems were 'installed by AKRSP Engineers who received some special training. Electricity is a gift with many beneficial uses. In Hoto and Mango, which have a combined population of around 500, it is being used for lighting and water heating. This reduces dependence on firewood as a primary fuel source which has .i beneficial impact on the environment, reduces smoky living conditions (chest and eye infections are endemic), saves labour time from collecting wood, and reduces expenditure on kerosene. Further possible uses of electricity include milling, fruit desiccation, and vaccine refrigeration. Our journey to the mountains was punctuated by stops related to the development project:at Skardu we met AKRSP Officers and had .i tour of current development initiatives, while at Shigar Dr Williams visited the small but very busy hospital and delivered a donation Of medical supplies. We also stopped at Mango to inspect progress on the new micro hydroelectricity scheme and at Hoto to check that the 1992 installation was in good order. Progress at Mango was very good and the Hoto scheme was running as expected. Valuable discussions took place at both villages with village leaders and AKRSP representative.

When we arrived at base camp on 29 June there were already four expeditions on 'the strip' (Dutch International, Swedish, American / Canadian, and Canadian) and one about to leave (Slovenian) of which four climbers had reached the top of K2 on 13 June. Tragically one member died of oedema during the descent and two suffered very severe frostbite. There were also two more expeditions to follow (German International and Catalan). The mix of nationalities and personalities provided many entertaining hours, with a great feeling of camaraderie and support.

Our arrival coincided with a stretch of 9 days of windless, sunny skies during which three members of the American / Canadian team reached the summit. Tragically one of the members died during the descent when an accidental slip led to a fatal fall.

Aided by good weather we lost little time and went up to establish advance base camp at c. 5400 m under the Abruzzi Spur on 2 July. The following day we climbed straightforward snow slopes, which other expeditions had mostly fixed with new ropes, to the site of Cl (c. 6150 m). Alan and Victor continued on to just below House's Chimney near C2. We all then descended to base camp.

On 6 July Julie-Ann and I ascended and established Cl. The site was small and already crowded with tents, and exposed to avalanche and stone fall. Hence, only one of our two man tents was erected away from the danger on a small platform on a nearby ridge. Next day Julie-Ann and I continued up and established C2 (c. 6800 m). The climbing was mostly on mixed ground with occasional steep steps and old fixed ropes in place. The final obstacle before reaching C2 was the very difficult House's chimney. Space at C2 was also limited, with tents concentrated beneath the shelter of a compact rock buttress. The tattered remains of old abandoned tents further restricted the space available and gave the camp a very desolate atmosphere. The site is very exposed to the prevailing' westerly wind and hence we took great care to dig our tents in well. It was here that other expeditions had tents destroyed and even one blown off the mountain with its contents. Also on the 7th, Victor and Alan moved up to Cl carrying equipment and food. Unfortunately 8 July brought a serious deterioration .in the weather. The solid black wall of clouds on the southern horizon heralded the arrival of what we later discovered to be the worst monsoon in 50 years on the Indian subcontinent. Everyone descended back to base camp.

A period of heavy snowfall and* strong winds followed and it was not until 14 July that we could move back up to our high camps. Again the weather turned us back and hence it was not until the 19th that Victor and Alan reached C2 and Julie-Ann and I, Cl. Both Alan and Julie-Ann were unwell on this trip with Alan sufficiently ill as to force Victor and him to descend. Julie-Ann recovered and we reached C2 on the 20th. The weather remained very good for a third day and so on the 21st a carry of tents and food was made up to above the Black Pyramid (c. 7150 m), just below C3. Initially the climbing above C2 is mixed but soon becomes steep and more rocky. At the top of the Black Pyramid the climbing is on compact slabs and there are many old fixed ropes. The 20th and 21st had been two days of perfect weather with uninterrupted views to the east. This turned out to be our last long period of good weather during the expedition. On the evening of the 21st, in rapidly deteriorating conditions, we started descending back to base camp.

From the 22nd ferocious winds became established on K2 and members of all expeditions remained at base camp.

It was not until the 27th that we were able to start moving up again. Despite strong winds and poor visibility on the 30th we all ascended the Black Pyramid and crossed the serac band to reach the site of C3 and the snow slopes leading to the Shoulder. We arrived in the afternoon and started to dig a snow cave that was just big enough for four. By 10 p.m. Julie-Ann and I were joined in the snow cave by a Swedish climber who had been unable to locate his team's camp, and a Canadian climber without bivouac equipment. Hence, Hinkes and Saunders spent the mght in their C4 bivi tent.

Next morning our radio contact with base camp revealed that from the German and Swedish teams ahead of us, of six climbers who reached the summit the previous day, three members had died during the descent. Alan and Victor started to move up the wide snow slopes above to the site of C4 but stopped at c. 7700 m to assist the surviving member of the Swedish summit team who was frost-bitten and exhausted. They brought him down to C3 and then descended back to base camp. Overnight Julie-Ann and I looked after the exhausted climber and the next day (1 August) we lowered him down the mountain. Visibility was poor and very strong winds again battered the Abruzzi Spur. There was a heart stopping moment when one of the old fixed ropes on a steep section of the Black Pyramid broke while the injured climber and I were simultaneously abseiling. Fortunately a serious fall was just avoided. After 13 hours' continuous effort advance base camp where other members of the Swedish expedition were reached without further incident.

After the rescue and helicopter evacuation of the Swedish team member therĀ§ followed a long spell of continuous bad weather. During this period two very unusual discoveries were made. Almost exactly 40 years after the epic descent of the Abruzzi Spur during which American climber Art Gilkey was swept away in an avalanche some of his remains appeared on the glacier only 3-400 m from base camp.

The eight members of the 1953 expedition had spent 10 days at their C8 (7700m) in bad weather and Gilkey had developed thrombophlebitis. They lowered Gilkey down in a storm and at one point one man fell and pulled five others off. Incredibly various ropes became entangled and Pete Schoening held them all on one belay. Gilkey was left belayed to two ice axes while tent platforms were dug for the night. When they went back to move Gilkey he was gone; apparently having been swept away in an avalanche. To us it seemed imperative that we should try and make contact with the members of the '53 team and through them any surviving relatives and ensure that the remains were disposed of in accordance with their wishes, a second similar discovery was made between the tents of the Dutch base camp.

Next day a few remains of a very small Asian person were found. We speculated that these were probably one of the three brave Sherpas who had died trying to save Dudley Woolfe who became stranded high on K2 in 1939. Discussing our discovery after our return it become fairly certain these were the remains of Sherpa Kitar.

From the 1 to 13 August, our planned summit attempt period, was the longest period of unsettled weather of the whole trip. As. the snow continued to fall and the winds raged up high it seemed less and less likely that we would ever get back on K2. However, on the afternoon and evening of the 13th, the weather did appear to clear and the pressure started to rise and we returned to advance base camp. The following morning everyone moved up to Cl, but by 7 a.m. it was clear that the weather was dosing in rapidly. Victor moved on up to C2 that afternoon, but the rest of us stayed at Cl for the night. On the 15th we were all together at C2, but became trapped there in increasingly bad weather with very strong winds. Finally on 19 August in just marginally improved conditions we moved up to C3. On the final slopes above the serac band we were dismayed to find thigh deep snow, with our snow cave buried under a blanket of at least 2 m of fresh snow. After over two hours digging we uncovered the entrance, only to discover that the cave roof had collapsed. With da*kness approaching and the prospect of climbing above on avalanche laden slopes seeming dangerous, we decided to retrieve our gear and descend. We reached C2 at 10 p.m. that night and spent all of the day of the 20th clearing the rest of the mountain to reach base camp at 7 p.m. Our porters had already arrived and so we were up again at 4 a.m. on the 21st to pack our loads and start the walk-out.

The expedition left promptly on the morning of 21 August. During the day of our departure huge avalanches swept both the south face and Abruzzi Spur of K2. The walk-out was concluded with a visit to Mango where the new hydroelectricity scheme was in full working order and greatly appreciated by the locals.

Obviously it was a great disappointment for none of us to have reached the top of K2. However, we worked together very well and had an enjoyable time and there were no accidents or serious illnesses. It can be recorded that a lightweight approach to climbing on the world's second highest mountain can work and that through our development project during the summer of 1993 a sustainable and positive impact was made to the mountain environment.

----------------------SUMMARY---------------------

A lightweight attempt on K2 (8611m) by four British mountaineers in July-August 1993.

 

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