WE CLIMBED IN the Garhwal Himalaya, a four-man British team of Steve Adderley, Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and Simon Yearsley.
The latter three made the second ascent of Yogeshwar (6678 m) via a new route on the objectively dangerous south face. The summit was reached on 2 October, 1992. The team thought they were making the first ascent, but were disappointed on their return to the UK where they read that an Indian expedition had made the first ascent via the southeast ridge in the pre-monsoon season of 1991.1
Originally planning to approach the mountain via the Shyamvarn glacier, the team's base camp was pitched 2 km short of this because of despondent porters, and they used the Swetvarn glacier as an fipproach instead. Finding enough good porters in the Gangorri area seems to be becoming more difficult, mainly due to the large number of expeditions operating here.
Base camp was established at 4800 m on 12 September after ,i three day walk-in from Gangotri.
After acclimatising at BC, loads were carried up the easy but tedious Swetvarn glacier, and advanced base established at 5550 m on 20 September.
Steve Adderley and Julian Clamp made* an attempt on the mountain's west ridge on 24 September. They gained this via the north' col between Yogeshwar and Chaturbhuj (6655 m), but retreated from between a height of 6200 m in the face of extremely unstable snow on the ridge.
Whilst recovering at base camp, all four members of the team helped in the evacuation of an Indian climber from Chavla Jagiridar's Sri Kailas (6932 m) expedition. The evacuation involved a two day stretcher carry of the climbers suffering from exposure and exhaustion down the difficult Raktavarn glacier.
On 28 September Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and Simon Yearsley re-occupied ABC. On the 29th they bivouacked below the horribly loose east col which they had hoped to climb that day, but were unable to because of stonefall.
Yogwhwar was named and first attempted by an Indo-French team in 1981 (HJ Vol. 38. p. 91). The first ascent was achieved on 27 June 1991 by an Indian team. See C.H.C. Newsletter 45, p. 16 - Ed-.
On the 30th the col was reached, and an extremely comfortable bivi ensued at 5950 m. Whilst having a rest day on 1 October, the team were able to pick out lines on the attractive and undimbed peaks on the east side of the Shyamuvan glacier. Leaving the bivi at midnight on 2 October, a series of gully lines were followed (Scottish III) from the col onto the south face. The south face was then crossed with straightforward climbing threatened by large serac and avalanche-runnels. The southeast ridge was gained by 7.30 a.m. at approximately 6400 m. Here sacks were left, and the S.E. ridge followed via the east ridge to the summit. This was reached at 11.30 a.m. By 5.30 p.m. the team descended the S.E. ridge, crossed the Shyamvarn glacier and re-ascended to their bivi on the east col. ABC was reached the following morning and cleared of all rubbish, and the team descended to the base camp the same day.
This part of the Garhwal remains relatively unvisited, unlike other areas of the Gangotri glacier. There are still many undimbed and attractive 6000 m peaks especially around the head of the Shyamvarn glacier.
Summary: The second ascent of Yogeshwar (6678 m) on 2 October 1992 by a British team. The peak stands on the Shyamvarna glacier (Gangotri-Garhwal).