Indian American Plateau Peak Expedition 2009.
Expedition Report
“What was that, again? Who named this peak? Are you sure? What kind of a mountain is that? – These were the responses I got when I shared the name of the peak we planned to attempt. “ Plateau Peak ”, a contradiction is in the name itself.
A huge mass of a mountain, wearing a permanent ice cap…. The entire mountain, from all directions, but one, has massive hanging serracs guard access to its top. It is part of the famous Saser Kangri group of peaks, rugged, beautiful, and towering high in the Nubra valley, East Karakoram . Despite several attempts from its western approach, the peak has remained unclimbed.
Having researched its history and geography, we were optimistic of finding a route on the mountain from its southern approach by the Sakang glacier.
Our five-member team, consisting of Marlin Geist, Bryce Green, (Americans) Rajesh Gadgil, Sudeep Barve and myself (Indians) travelled to Leh on 21 July 2009 and completed formalities of reporting to various authorities.
The last expedition into the Sakang valley was the Indian Japanese team to Saser Kangri II in August 1985. From their account in H.J. vol. 42, we had an understanding of the difficulties of the approach trek. We decided that it was essential that we start the approach after acclamatisation on an easier trek. On 24 July, after two days of acclamatisation at Leh, we trekked a across the Lasermo la (5400 m) into the Nubra valley. Although the trek across Lasermo la in two and half days turned out to be a marathon in foul weather, the purpose was well served. Two days rest in Nubra valley after our trek and we were well acclamatised, fit and rearing to go.
We started our approach trek for base camp on 29 July from Pinchimic. The terrain was rough - long traverses on scree covered rock slabs, loose mud and exposed paths. Rope had to be fixed at some points to safeguard movement of porters laden with heavy loads. It took us 10 long and arduous hours to gain the 1000 m. to reach “Phonglas camp” at 4400 m. On the next day, we established base camp at 4800 m at the snout of the Sakang glacier.
We started movement in earnest and a reconnaissance of our route to advanced base camp was carried out immediately on 1 August. The route initially traveled along the lateral moraine of the glacier and then crossed over to the medial moraine. It took us about four hours to negotiate the loose rock and scree of the moraine to reach the camp. Advance base camp was established and occupied on 3 August at 5400 m. on the moraine of the Sakang glacier. The views of Plateau Peak , Saser Kangri III and the entire cirque of subsidiary peaks around were awe-inspiring.
Camp 1 was established at 5760 m at the head of Sakang glacier on 8 August. 
Detailed reconnaissance and study of the route to Plateau Peak was carried out.
We had to find a route up a wall of about 1000 m to gain access to the east ridge of Plateau Peak . We ruled out a direct approach on the mountain due to the threat of hanging serracs and avalanche prone slopes.
After much deliberation we decided on a route that seemed safe from avalanches. Thanks to Marlin, our ‘medicine-man’, a V eterinarian by profession, the route got nicknamed “Dog Leg” due to its shape.
Route opening started on 9 August. We climbed in teams of three or four, allowing the rest of us to recuperate on those days. The route went up a narrow gully till the height of 6200 m. A steep climb led to the traverse below the rock band. The traverse was frightening due to extreme exposure combined with loose snow that kept collapsing with every passage of the climbers. One wasn’t confident about the weight bearing capacity of that slope. On completion of the traverse, we climbed straight up a snow and ice slope, that we called the “butterfly wing”.
For seven days we persisted, fixing a few additional rope lengths every day before it was time to turn-around. As the sun touched the slopes of the wall and loosened rocks, the gully became a bowling alley. Despite the strict discipline of maintaining the turnaround time of 10.30 a.m. , a few rocks did find their mark. We were fortunate not to suffer any major injury. Our start time got earlier each day, till a point when we planned to start by midnight !! It took hours of tiring climbing to reach each previous high point with little time to move further on the route. On 15 August, we reached the height of approx 6600 m after fixing 1350 m of rope.
On 15 August, Marlin Geist, Rajesh Gadgil, Sudeep Barve and I visited the Sakang col at 6100 m to overlook the North Shukpa Kungchang glacier. Considering the extreme nature of our climb, we were looking for a possible crossing route to the glacier as a back up plan or an escape route in case of any eventuality. However, we were greeted by overhanging walls, serracs and steep ice slopes on the east of the col and all thoughts of crossing over vanished. As we returned to camp, high clouds and the ominous ring around the sun signaled the onset of bad weather.
On 16 August, weather turned bad with strong winds and snowfall. We holed up
in our tents, hoping the weather would settle soon and we could make our attempt. We needed only one more day of route opening to establish Camp 2. We had sufficient equipment at our high point and all of us were well acclamatised to shift camp for our summit attempt. What we needed was 4 days of clear weather. However it was not to be. Snowfall continued for the next 8 days. The heavy deposition of snow made the route unsafe and we did not have time enough to allow the snow to settle for further climbing. With great disappointment the team returned to base camp on 22 August in the continuing bad weather.
Marlin and Bryce returned to road head on 24 August. Rajesh and I were keen to attempt a peak 6010 m. at the junction of Sakang glacier with its subsidiary glaciers. On 24 August the weather showed positive signs, so we shifted to Phonglas camp at 4400 m.
On 25 August, we climbed steep scree slopes and traversed some nerve racking rock slabs to established a camp at 5200 m below the northwest face of the peak.
On 26 August despite the cloudy skies, we decided to make the attempt, hoping the weather would hold. We climbed the north ridge of the peak with a few sections of steep ice. This connected to the west ridge leading to the summit of peak 6010 m. Samgyal, Mingma, Rajesh and I were at the summit by 10.00 a.m. We named the peak “Tsumzong Kangri”, meaning “ Junction Peak ”. We were back at Phonglas camp by early evening.
The team returned to Nubra on 27 August and we were back in Leh on 28 August 2009 .
We will never know whether we would have reached the summit of Plateau Peak , but we were happy we had coped with the challenges of our chosen route, the “Dog-Leg”. Snowfall continued on for days without respite. We were fortunate, our flight took off on 31 August despite low visibility and rains at Leh…. the only flight that was not cancelled that day.
Divyesh Muni
Leader
Summary:
Plateau Peak (7310 m): Established a safe route to climb the peak and reached at an altitude of 6600 m on the route. 1350 m of rope were fixed on the “wall” to the col between Plateau Peak and Saser Kangri III.
Tsumzong Kangri (6010 m): First Ascent of the peak was made on 26 August by Rajesh Gadgil, Samgyal Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa and Divyesh Muni.
Sakang col (6100 m): Marlin Geist, Sudeep Barve, Rajesh Gadgil and Divyesh Muni reached the col on 15 August.
Lasirmo La (5400 m): All members of the team crossed the pass into Nubra Valley .
Support & Logestics: Rimo Expeditions
Team:
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Marlin Geist |
Rajesh Gadgil |
Bryce Green |
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Expedition Team members |
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Sudeep Barve |
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Divyesh Muni |
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