An attempt on Nya Kangri (6480 m)
Since 2001, when I visited the Arganglas valley in East Karakoram, Nya Kangri remained a prominent peak on our to-do list. A beautiful pyramid of snow and ice, the peak dominates the entrance to the valley.
The Himalayan Club sponsored our four member team consisting of Vineeta Muni, Rajesh Gadgil, Rajan Rikame and myself to attempt the peak in June – July 2008. We received tremendous support from Wg. Cdr. N. K. Dahiya, Director, Indian Mountaineering Foundation in getting the necessary clearances from the Ministry of Defence to enter the Nubra Valley.
The team flew into Leh on 15th June and spent three days in purchasing our food supplies. This also allowed us time to acclamatise in Leh before setting off across the Khardung La into Nubra Valley on 18th June.
As we flew into Leh, the clouds ominously hung over the entire region. We hoped this would be a passing phase since June was considered a good time to climb in East Karakoram. Our friends, Motup Chewang, Hon. Secretary for Ladakh of The Himalayan Club and his wife Yangdu were of tremendous assistance in organizing our entire expedition. From providing our staff to arranging our transport, mules and porterage to base camp and back they were the backbone on our expedition.
Samgyal Sherpa, a friend and climbing companion since more than ten years accompanied us along with a cook Norbu and his helper, Kami. We stayed a night at Tegur before starting our approach march on the 19th June. Eleven horses carried our food and equipment for the next three days till we established base camp at Phonglas on the true right of the river at an altitude of 4600 m.
Light rain accompanied us on the walk in while it snowed on the higher reaches of the mountains. We hoped the weather would clear by the time we reached Base Camp and started serious climbing.
Nya Kangri had never been attempted earlier. We had photographs of the peak from our earlier expeditions in the valley and from the top of Rdung Ring peak, which we climbed in 2005. We planned to attempt Nya Kangri from its South Ridge. A small glacier originating from the South face of the mountain fed a stream coming down to Base Camp.
On establishing Base Camp on the 21st June, we recceyed a route to ABC near the snout of the Glacier at an altitude of 5400 m. It was early in the expedition and we were struggling with the altitude. Accompanied by light snow during the days, we ferried loads and occupied ABC on 25th June.
The approach to the South Ridge of Nya Kangri was from a 700 m gully flanked on one side by a rocky ridge and by a huge hanging glacier formed at the base of the South East face of Nya Kangri. It was a challenge to find a route through the gully which would keep us safe from the consistant rock fall from the ridge to the west of the gully and from potential avalanches from South East face of Nya Gangri.
On 26th we opened route through the gully and fixed four rope lengths to an altitude of 5800 m. The route looked good and was safe for most of its distance from any objective hazards.
We hoped to establish our Camp 1 on 28th June. However as we started off early morning, thick clouds hung over the entire region. We just about reached our previous high point and the weather broke with strong winds and snow fall. We secured all the equipment at a safe location and beat a hasty retreat.
The weather gods were not kind to us and the next two days it snowed heavily. The entire region was plastered with snow. On 1st July the weather cleared. However, we stayed put for the day to allow the snow to settle. Two avalanches came frighteningly close to our route up the gully. I was apprehensive now of the conditions on the mountain.
We now had very few days to complete out climb and get back to Base Camp to keep to our return schedule. On 2nd we decided to make one final attempt to establish Camp 1. We left early morning to cover ground as quickly as possible on the snow before it got soft with the heat. The fixed ropes had to be dug out of the snow in many places. We reached our high point of 5900 m. and started climbing towards the final slopes below the South Ridge of the mountain. We had to cross a narrow chute of snow before we reached the base of 200 m. snow slope below the proposed Camp 1 site.
However, crossing the chute became a struggle, the accumulated snow was loose and unconsolidated. Below was hard ice and rock. It was difficult to make progress since the soft snow gave way at every step. Perched precariously at our high point, I reassessed the situation and our climbing route ahead. Even after the struggle, if we managed to cross the chute, we still had to negociate the 200 m snow slope below the proposed Camp 1. Since the snow was loose and unconsolidated, the slope became very prone to slab avalanche. The risk level being very high, I decided to call off the climb. We reluctantly started our way down, removing all the fixed rope and equipment on the climb.
We wound up ABC and were ready to trek back to Tigur. We were hoping to see our horses on the evening of 4th July. To our surprise we spotted a string of men trekking up. They reached to opposite bank of the river but the water level was too high to cross. The horse men were not willing to come up for us so Motup had arranged for porters to bring our loads down. The porters camped the night below a boulder and crossed over early next morning. On the 5th we walked all the way down to the road head, only too happy to see the vehicles waiting for us.
We had a great time amidst the mountains of East Karakoram. However the weather was most disappointing and what was considered as a period of clear skies and ideal climbing conditions turned out to be like the monsoon of Mumbai!! When we called home, we got to know that it had not rained at all in Mumbai during the peak monsoon time. Leaves one wondering what to expect next….. Snow fall in Mumbai?
Photo Link : Comming Soon
Divyesh Muni
