International Chong Kumdan II Expedition ( August 2008 )

“Like many good expeditions, ours began with problems. There are always too much bureaucratic obstacles on way to climbing in East Karakoram ” writes Harish Kapadia about his 1989’s expedition “East of Saser La”.

Nearly 20 years later, we need to survive to an avalanche of administrative problems before our departure from Europe (long waiting time for the summit permit, very short lead time for our X visas, difficulties to obtain them…).

But, once there, everything became easier. The logistic organized by Motup, of RIMO expedition was perfect. Nine days after departure we were installed at our base camp, located on the moraine of the Mamostong Glacier at 4900m of altitude. Later, we crossed two high altitude passes to reach the South Terong Glacier then the upper part of the Chong Kumdan glacier. The continuing bad weather led us to progress very slowly, right in line with the spirit of the continuous and soft climbing.

The 18 th of August (15 days after leaving in Base Camp), we are installed in our Camp 8 !, above the Nup pass on the South ridge of the Chong Kumdan II, at an altitude of 6550 m. We are finally close to our summit. The Chong Kumdan II is a long ridge, like a plateau with 4 different summits, of relatively equal altitude.

August 19 th, the entire group composed of Konchok Thinless, Samgyal Sherpa, Bernard Meurin, Sebastiano Audisio, Dominique Ravot and Paulo Grobel reached the first summit located at the east of the ridge (a snow dome summit called Chong Kumdan ‘ Mont Blanc ’).

August 20 th, with better weather, Sebastiano Audisio, Dominique Ravot and Paulo Grobel crossed one other summit (‘Cima Daniela’) to reach the main summit of Chong Kumdan II.

The return was very quick, same evening back from the summit to camp 6, and then to Camp 3 and finally the 22 nd of August at Tulum Puti nala. Leh was reached on the 25 th.

This Chong Kumdan II expedition corresponds more to a long altitude trip than to a classical ascent starting from a base camp. From the top of the Chong Kumdan glacier, the Chong Kumdan II may be rated VI/AD snow in Himalayan quotation (45/50 degree slop in the Nup Col).

Paulo Grobel, deputy leader
Leh, 27 august 2008