Shivling (6543 m)
(A) Expedition: Ukranian
Leader : Viktor Gryshenko (3 members)
The team intended to climb the north ridge which is the
normal ridge of this peak. They established camps by early
September, but however they could reach only upto 6000m
as heavy rains and bad weather stopped their attempt.
(B) Expedition : Austrian
Leader: Herbet Volf (4 members)
Shivling was climbed by the west ridge on 26th September 2002 by 4 members including their leader. The
other summiteers were Mattle Rolande, Moritz Ijoachim and
Bitscanu Leander. Three members of the team from police
and were professional guides.
( C ) Expedition: Spanish
Leader: Jordi Massdlle (6 members)
The team established the last camp in early September
but bad weather and storm thwarted any major attempt on
this peak.
(D) Expedition: Swiss
Leader: Walter Hungerbulher (6 members)
All the seven members of this Swiss team climbed Shivling
by the west face on 30th September. They had
excellent weather since establishing the base camp on 20th September on south of the Gangotri glacier. The names of
other summiteers with the leader were Ms. Rita Schoppmann,
Florian Stroub, Bammert Oliver, Hnopeter Hug, Franh Mavcel,
Ms. Melanie Blatter.
(E) Expedition: Israel
Leader: Ran Kagan (3 members)
A four member team from Israel climbed the west ridge
of Shivling, reaching the summit on 29th September.
Along with leader all other three members reached the top.
They were Morah Levy, Alan Hod and Goy Hasson. Some members
suffered from frost-bites and had to be evacuated on donkeys
to Gangotri on way to Delhi.
(F) Expedition: Hungarian
Leader: Bela Mester (2 members)
Shivling was climbed by the west ridge by two members
Casadaba Toth and Gabor Babscan, which is the normal route.
They had established their last camp at 5520 m and the summit
was reached on 2nd October.
(G) Expedition: Spanish
Leader : Jorge Corominas Garcia
A team of 15 members attempted the west ridge of Shivling
and the Gangotri glacier. On 5th of October 3
members, leader, Eva Zarzuvuelo, Jam Buenaza reached the
summit. Followed next day by Msax Msesek and J. Rimon Agras.
They had established the base camp on 24th September
and returned back on 23rd October.
Swachand (6721 m) and Meru (6350
m)
Expedition: Canadian
Leader: Guy M. Edwards (4 members)
This experienced team followed the Gangotri glacier and
established base camp by 10th September and was
climbing at the area for a month. Due to recent snow, attempt
on Meru Shark’s Fin turned very dangerous and they gave
up an attempt on that. However the west face of Swachand
peak was climbed in 4 days going up and 1day return between
3rd and 7th October. The summit was
reached on 6th October by Guy Edwards and John
Miller.
Meru Shak’s Fin (6304 m)
Expedition: British
Leader: Julian Cartwright with Jon Bracey, Met Dickinson.
They approached this attractive rock face from the Gangotri
glacier and established base camp by 16th of
September. High camps and summits were tried between 23rd to 27th September by the east face, but they
could not reach the summit. The weather was good, but carrying
too much equipment, they were weighed down by their weight
and could not reach the summit.
Satopanth (7075 m)
(A) Expedition: UIAA, Europe
Leader: Hans Hocke (5 members)
This high peak on the Gangotri glacier was climbed on
1st October via the north ridge. The summiteers
were Hans, Hock and Thomas Schofer. This was UIAA joint
international expedition.
(B) Expedition: The Netherlands
Leader: Jos Smeets (9 members)
This was 9 member team wanting to attempt Satopanth by
the northeast ridge, the normal route. On 5th October they gave up their attempt at 6250 m as the ridge
was very narrow and it was not possibly to belay each other.
One member was sick and injured and hence they decided to
give up their climb.
Mandani (6193 m)
Expedition: Indian, from West Bengal
Leader: Atanu Chatterjee, (11 members)
The peak on the Gangotri glacier was attempted by this
team. However, after fixing up to 800m of rope they found
the terrain too difficult and due to a heavy snowfall, they
abandoned the attempt.
Bhrigupanth (6772 m)
Expedition: Korean
Leader: Woo Suk
A Korean team with 8 members attempted the southeast
face of Bhrigupanth establishing base camp at 5200 m and
further camps upto 6300 m. On 28th August Evn
Soo Koo, Kwnchul reached the summit, eventhough they had
some inclement weather along the expedition.
Chaukhamba II (7070 m)
Expedition: French
Leader: Wagnon Patrick with Peter Trommsdorff, and Sauget
Gregoria and Ziania Yannick , Mountaineering Guides from
France
The climbed Chaukhamba II by west face in perfect style
and in a quick push. Braving some early bad weather, they
finally ascended the peak in alpine style with three bivouacs
in two days and two nights and quickly returning to Delhi.
Sudarshan Parvat (6507 m) and Saife
(6166 m)
Expedition: Indian, from Almora, Uttranchal
Leader: Deepak Joshi
The expedition approached the peak from the Gangotri
glacier and made the base camp on the Raktavarna glacier.
Turning into the Swetvarna glacier a base camp was made.
The east face and the east ridge of Sudarshan Parvat was
climbed on 20th June 2002 by the leader with
Narish D. Patel, and porters Chamu Singh, Mahipal Singh
and Kundan Singh. After two days, the snowy dome of Saife
was climbed again by leader with Narish, Alok, Amit Teluga
and 5 porters.
Kedarnath (6989 m)
Expedition: Italian
Leader: Moretti Martino (5 members)
A 5 member Italian team of doctors and an Alpine Guide
attempted this high peak in the Gangotri valley. They established
their camp ahead of Tapovan on the Kirti glacier on 26th September. High Camp was made at 6100 m by 2nd October. They intended to follow the north ridge of Kedar
Dome to Kedarnath Peak. However, too much soft snow above
6100 m stopped them.
Kedar Dome (6830 m)
(A) Expedition: Korean
Leader :Jin Sun Ryo
Team of 12 member established the camp ahead of Tapovan,
across the Kirti glacier to attempt the east face of Kedar
Dome. However, continuous snow fall and bad weather stopped
them at ABC 4800 m only.
(B) Expedition: French-Spanish-New Zealand mix team
Leader: Solignac Francois (8 members)
This team established base camp on 24th May
on the Kirti glacier intending to climb the northwest face
of Kedar Dome, the normal route. However, they reached 6600
m and the attempt was given up because of fresh snow which
did not consolidate rather quickly.
Thalay Sagar (6904 m)
Expedition: Japanese
Leader: Hiroshi Kawasaki with Kanji Saito
This two member team set up a base camp at 4700 m on
31st May at foot of Thalay Sagar intending to
attempt its north face. However, they could reach the height
of 6200 m and because of tiredness they gave up the further
attempt. The last camp was established on 16th June at 6100 m.
Chaukhamba I (7138 m) and Chaukhamba
II (6974 m)
Expedition: Korean
Leader: Man Jae Lim (8 members)
An 8 member Korean team attempted the twin peaks of Chaukhamba
from the Mana village going to Vasudhara Col and establishing
camp at Satopanth tal. They established the base camp at
4300 m on 25th July and subsequent camps by August
19th up to 6200 m. They attempted the east face
of Chaukhamba I and II, but the terrain was full of open
and hidden crevasses and there were several seracs hanging
on the route. There was rockfall and the leader of the team
was hit by a broken serac, but luckily survived. They reached
the height of 6500 m on peak I and they had to give up the
climbing.
Januhut (6807 m)
Expedition: Austrian
Leader: Jochler Josef and Zenz Christian
This was a two men expedition with leader and Zenz Christian.
Both were professional climbing guides from Australia. They
established a base camp following the long Gangotri - Tapovan
route on 19th of May to the headof the long Gangtori
glacier in early June. However, they had plenty of porter
problems on their approach march due too much snow in the
glacier and later had bad weather which affected fingers
of one of the members . No serious attempt was made on the
peak
Chaturangi IV (6304 m)
Expedition: Indian, from Calcutta
Leader: Dipankar Ghosh (12 members)
Chaturangi IV is a peak situated on the Gangotri glacier
and it is group of peaks. The team established three camps
in early summer and. 7 members reached the summit of Chaturangi
IV. Prasanjit Mukherjee, Sandip Chakraborti, Amarjyoti Chakrborti
and Arun Sen.
Sri Kailash (6932 m)
Expedition : Indian, from West Bengal
Leader: Tarun Mondal (8 members)
This high peak situated north of the Gangotri glacier
was climbed by this West Bengal team on 23rd May 2002. The summiteers were Jayanta Chandras, Leader and
Aparis Ghosh with Guven Singh. While in the second rope
Patang Sherpa climbed with Raju Datta, Tirshit Ghalti Roy
and Subhrabat Ghosh
Sudarshan Parvat (6507 m)
Expedition: Indian, from Pune
Leader: Shripad G. Sankpal (11 members)
This young team attempted Sudarshan Parvat by the southwest
ridge which is not very often climbed. After passing Gaumukh
they entered the Thelu bamak. Bypassing peak Thelu towards
their west, they climbed up on the southwest ridge to reach
the summit of Sudarshan Parvat. Camp 3 was established on
4th of July by Shripad Sankpal, Santosh Bomkar
and Chandra Bahadur Sahai and H.A.P. On 7th July,
starting early they had made the summit attempt along the
sharp snow ridge and going across two rock humps and a hard
ice wall on way to the top. The weather was clear and they
had an excellent view. On 8th July, Avinash Khandekar
and Sachin Naidu reached the summit at 1.30 p.m. following
the same route.
Gangotri III (6577 m)
Expedition: Indian, from West Bengal
Leader: Suman Guha Neogi
Gangotri III lies to south of Gangotri temple at the
head of Rudugaira glacier. This team established three camps
the last one being at 5900 m. Finally after braving some
bad weather, on 2nd June they reached the summit
from the south-southeast ridge. The summitters were Dipankar
Ghosh, Debnath Das, Subashish Banerjee, Jaisingh Sahji,
Jaisingh Thakur and Laxmansingh Thakur.
Devban (6852 m)
Expedition: Indo-Tibet Border Police
Leader: Y.S. Sandhu
This is a high and difficult peak near Kamet in Garhwal.
A strong ITBP team reached the summit on 19th September. The summiters were Vijender Singh, Jyot Singh,
Mohammed Ali and Tashi Motop. They followed the south ridge
approached from eastern sector.
Rataban (6166 m)
Expedition: Indian, from Chandarnagor, West Bengal
Leader: Gautam Banik, (16 members)
The expedition approached this peak meaning Red Arrow
from Malari and coming over the Bhuidhar Khal to establish
camp at foot of this peak. The summit was reached following
the west and northwest ridge. The peak was reached on 27th August by 12 members, including the leader with Soma Mohanto,
Amal Mondal, Bablo Sen, Basudev Sarkar, Madhavi Burman,
Babli Gurohi, Subrato Roy and high altitude porters, Raghuvir
Singh, Rajbir Singh Ravat, Kumar Singh and Nandan Singh.
Kamet (7756 m) and Abi Gamin (7355
m)
Expedition: Indian
Leader: R. C. Bharadwaj (10 members)
Expedition was from Uttaranchal Tourism Board. They
attempted these two high peaks on the border with Tibet
in Northern Garhwal. The expedition was able to climb both
the peaks.
On Abi Gamin the summiteers were Rakesh Joshi, Ashish
Singh, William Akbarchandra, Chanda Bist with Sherpa Mig
Tamba and the summit was climbed on 3rd October.
After suffering some delays on 5th October, Kamet
was climbed by team member Satish Chandra Bhat with 3 Sherpas,
namely, Pasang Dorje, Dawa and Purba Gyalzen. The team was
climbing along with and at the same time with an Indian
army team, which were also attempting the summit. Due to
late season several members suffered frostbites and cold
injuries.
Jaonli (6632 m)
Expedition: British
Leader: Oliver Clayton and Ed Cropley
A two member team climbed Jaonli by the northwest ridge
on 6th June 2002. they had approached from Lod
gad valley to Jaonli glacier to reach the foot of the northwest
ridge. Base camp was established by 31st May
and Camp 2 at 5800 m was set up by 5th of June.
Both the young summiteers of 27 years of age, reached the
summit in Alpine style.
Brahmasar (5850 m)
Expedition: British
Leader: Martin Moran (8 members)
A small British team led by energetic Martin Moran made
ascents of six smaller peaks in Garhwal. These peaks are
situated around Khatling glacier at the head of the Pirangla
valley. They established a base camp on May 1st and higher camps between May 4 and May 13. The following
summits were climbed :
‘Right Rabits’ 5530 m by east ridge
‘The Cathedral’ 5360 m by west couloir
‘The Fortress’ 5541 m by north coouloir
‘Point Walkers’ 5260 m by east ridge
Point 5709 m by northwest bank
Brahmasar II 5800 m by southeast couloir
Attempt on Brahmasar I by Martin Moran and two other
members failed 60 m below the summit on 11th . They climbed 15 pitches with rock climbing grade 4, 5,
and 6 and reached the maximum height of 5790 m. Descent
was done by 11. abseils. They had excellent weather all
throughout. The first two peaks were climbed by Martin Moran
with Mark Davidson and John V….. The last four peaks were
climbed by Keith …… and all the peaks were climbed between
6th and 13th of May.
Arwa Towers (6352 m) and Arwa Spire
(6132 m)
Expedition: French
Leader: De Choudens Antoine (11 members)
Arwa Tower, the recently discovered high peak was climbed
by two different routes by this strong French team. First
they established base camp on 4th of May at foot
of this peak and attempted the south face. This was climbed
on 11th of June in a three day push my Emanuel
Pellissier and Francois Savarx. Then another team climbed
the northwest face with the leader and Miston Lment Numose,
Dimitry and Huffet Goly Gregory. Arwa Spire 6132 m was
also climbed on 16th of May in a three day push
by the leader with Francois Savarx, Philip Renard and Thomas
Pauchevr. The expedition enjoyed excellent days and had
a wonderful time before withdrawing on 21st of
May.
Arwa Spire (6193 m)
Expedition: Swiss
Leader: Bruno Hasler with Stephen Harvey and Roger Schaeli
These were the team of three mountain guides from UIAA
who attempted this lovely rocky peak in the central Garhwal.
They established their base camp at 4660 m and the advanced
base camp at 5400 m. On 24th of May, Hasler,
Harvey and Schaeli, all three reached the summit of Arwa
Spire by the Central Pillar in a three-day Alpine style
push. On 5th of June, all the three members climbed
the west pillar of Arwa Spire in a 7-day Alpine style push.
These were some of the finest ascents in the Indianhimalaya
this year.
Arwa Tower (6352 m)
Expedition: Swiss
Leader: Roux Frederic
This was a four member team with three guides and one
manager. They climbed the north face and the east ridge
on Arwa Tower in 17 hours of Alpine style of climbing on
7th of October, 2002. The summit was reached
by the leader with Basson Gabriel and Darbellay Benoit Jen
Paul. They had an excellent weather and climbed in best
style.
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