CLIMBING IN  THE INDIAN HIMALAYA IN THE YEAR 2001

Compiled by Harish Kapadia

The Nanda Devi Sanctuary has been in the news during the year. Last year a large Indo-Tibet police expedition had climbed the main peak of Nanda Devi by entering the Sanctuary.  One climber died on their ascent. Immediately following them a British trekking group spent few days in the sanctuary.  This year in 2001, President of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Mr. N. N. Vohra, took pains to organise an expedition to investigate whether the Sanctuary should be opened for mountaineers, trekkers and researchers. It may be recalled that the Nanda Devi Sanctuary is closed since 1983.  Local villagers are also not allowed to enter the Sanctuary for traditional grazing rights. The  team from  the Indian Mountaineering Foundation  was cleared by the Ministry of Environment and Forest, Chief Wildlife Warden, and the Government  of Uttaranchal.  This was required as per the law as the area is declared a National Park under the Act of Indian Parliament. This team studied the area and submitted a detailed report to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation  which was forwarded to various departments in the Government. No final decision has yet been taken to open the Sanctuary for trekkers and mountaineers. But from the press report it appears, that a limited access to scientific expeditions may be allowed.

Following the IMF trekking team, a large expedition of the Indian Army entered the Sanctuary to clear the old garbage lying there from 1970s. They also reached the summit of Nanda Devi and Dunagiri peaks but no further details are available.  It must be mentioned that at least two expeditions to the newly formed Uttaranchal State,  and attempting  peaks bordering the boundaries of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary faced serious permit problems locally. Generally, to climb the peaks on the walls of the Sanctuary from outside was permitted and many expeditions have made ascents in the past, like on Changabang from the north and Nanda Devi East peak from the eastern approaches. However the new state’s authorities stopped a Korean and an American expedition which were attempting Kalanka and Dunagiri respectively.   After long delays, the Korean team had to change plans and attempt Nilkanth peak. Future expeditions to the Uttaranchal States (consisting of Garhwal and Kumaun regions) and particularly to the peaks on the rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary should be careful in accessing the situation when they apply.

Nun-Kun Peaks

Due to the troubles in the Kashmir state no expeditions were permitted to popular peaks of Nun and Kun  during the year.  Similarly, no climbing has been allowed in the entire are of Kishtwar. Both these areas of southern Zanskar and Kishtwar have been affected by terrorism in Kashmir.

Arganglas Valley

A major International expedition climbed in the Arganglas  valley in the areas near the Siachen Glacier. The team consisting of 2 British, 2 American and 4 Indian mountaineers explored an vast unknown area and made several first ascents. Arganglas is an area where perhaps  largest number of unclimbed exists.  The two American mountaineers, Mark Richey and Mark Wilford climbed a challenging route on the peak Yamndaka (6218 m), the most challenging climb in the Indian Himalaya during the year, if not in a few years.

Tirsuli West Peak

One of the  major climb was the reported first ascent of Tirsuli West,  one of the last unclimbed 7000m virgin peaks in Garhwal. The expedition was from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi and was led by its vice-principal Major K. S.  Dhami. The Institute has now been at the forefront of training mountaineers in India and its instructors have made some major ascents on various expeditions.  The leader has circulated brief details as given in this report,  but substantial photographs and further details are awaited. As per the rules of the IMF such details  are required to be studied to confirm any first ascent.

Statistics

During the year expeditions visited several areas in the Indian Himalaya. There were no major expeditions to  Sikkim, Kishtwar  and Zanskar. Out of 138 expeditions, 60 were to routine peaks which are not covered here as listed below. Out of these 19 were foreign expeditions and 41 from India.  The statistics  of climbs or attempts on these peaks are as under :

The peaks with expeditions are as under with number of expeditions in brackets :

• Kedar Dome (8)
  Satopanth (7)
• Jogin Group (8)
• Kalindi Peak (2)
• Rudugaira  (6)
• Koteshwar and Thelu (8)
• Kalanag (3)
• Sri Kailash (2)
• Bhagirathi II  (2)
• Bauljuri (1)

• Ladakhi and Manali Peaks (3)
• Hanuman Tibba (1)

• Stok Kangri (6)
• Dzo Jongo (3)

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation

During the year in November 2001, elections for the President and the Governing Councils for the Indian Mountaineering Foundation were held in New Delhi. The current President, Shri N. N. Vohra was elected unanimously for the two year  term. 12 other members were elected and Shri H. C. S. Rawat and Ms. Rita Marwah were appointed Vice-Presidents of the Foundation.  Shri N. N. Vohra is an experienced bureaucrat and a senior official, who has served in the  various high capacities with the Government of India.  With his knowledge of the functioning of the Government he has been instrumental in solving various matters and to get help to promote mountaineering in the country. With Mr. Vohra at the helm of affairs the Indian Mountaineering would be in safe hands.